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The paper discusses different types of fragrance lists and their importance in contributing to olfactory popularity. While sales-based best-seller lists are crucial, they remain hidden from consumers unlike other areas of popular culture. Instead, social media lists based on indicators such as views have become important for the public perception of perfumery, creating a shift from sales figures to often viral social media communication. These lists are complemented by >subjective< lists created by influencers and perfumistas, such as >compliment getter<,>expert< and >iconic< lists. The paper examines these lists in terms of the everyday life of perfumes and how they address the material olfactory dimension of success. The interplay between these different types of lists demonstrates hints at competing and interwoven ideas of popularity. The paper demonstrates that the classic high/low distinction, which originated in luxury perfumery, continues to dominate an olfactory understanding of popularity, in contrast to a purely quantitative approach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. The purpose of the study is to study how the peculiarities of using perfume scents affect self-presentation and how this is related to a person’s personality traits. Methodology. The participants filled out the questionnaire “Socio-psychological characteristics of olfactory behavior” developed by O.A. Gerasimova, the Keirsey questionnaire; the “Social Control Scale” by M. Snyder. Results. The results of the study show that the majority of respondents use a self-presentation strategy in interpersonal interaction, the features of which are related to personal characteristics and the degree of communicative control. The direction of using parfumeria – for oneself or for others – depends on personal characteristics and the degree of control over the communicative situation. The lack of significant links between personality traits, temperament type and preference for certain flavors shows the complexity of the study of olfactory self-presentation and the need for further research in this area. Practical implications. The results of the conducted research can be used in practice as a guide in the selection and creation of fragrances, to understand how a person chooses a preferred fragrance.

Increasing the consumption of medicinal plants has many benefits, including creating employment and generating income for producers, especially in rural communities whose livelihoods are highly dependent on nature. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate the factors affecting the consumption of medicinal plants and its status in the market in order to provide the most important factors for the development of this type of exploitation. This study examines the presentation and consumption of medicinal plants and the attitude and belief of people in it in the perfumeries of Torbat Heydarieh. Descriptive research method and collection tool was done using a questionnaire designed by the researcher. The statistical population of this study was the most important and significant perfumers of Torbat Heydariyeh and buyers of medicinal plants. The sample size using the Cochran's formula is equal to 383 which includes127 prominent perfumers of Torbat Heydarieh city and 256 buyers of medicinal plants were selected. After collecting the data by a questionnaire, the research data were analyzed using SPSS23 software. The results showed that there was a significant and positive relationship between the manner of keeping medicinal plants and the amount of consumption of people (r = 0.32) and the relationship between the supply of medicinal plants and the amount of consumption of people (r = 0.390) was obtained. Between people's attitudes and beliefs about the effectiveness of medicinal plants and Consumption of people (r = 0.582) and a significant and positive relationship was obtained between having a degree related to medicinal plants and the amount of consumption of medicinal plants by people (r = 0.376). Therefore, only by increasing the awareness of consumers about the benefits of using medicinal plants and also by changing the way of supplying medicinal plants from traditional to modern methods, it is possible to help the development of the market of medicinal plants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Imidazolidin-4-ones were investigated as hydrolytically cleavable profragrances to increase the long-lastingness of perfume perception in a fabric softener application. The reaction of different amino acid amides with 2-alkyl- or 2-alkenylcyclopentanones as the model fragrances to be released afforded the corresponding bi- or tricyclic imidazolidin-4-ones as mixtures of diastereoisomers, which were separated by column chromatography. In polar solution, the different stereoisomers equilibrated under thermodynamic conditions to form mixtures with constant isomeric distributions, as shown by NMR spectroscopy. Dynamic headspace analysis on dry cotton demonstrated the controlled fragrance release from the precursors in practical application. Under non-equilibrium conditions (continuous evaporation of the fragrance) and depending on the structure and stereochemistry of the profragrances, the recorded headspace concentrations of the fragrance released from the precursors increased by a factor of 2 up to 100 with respect to the unmodified reference. Prolinamide-based precursors released the highest amount of fragrance and were thus found to be particularly suitable for prolonging the evaporation of cyclopentanone-derived fragrances on a dry cotton surface. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim. The study represents a continuation of the previous one, and provide various aspects related to the use of perfumery, which can be characterized by certain associations with the education level of Ukrainian consumers. Factors that have direct or indirect biological and medical significance and, accordingly, may have a potential impact on the safety of the perfume products use by humans, were selected for the analysis. Materials and methods. The analysis included information about 124 individuals living in Ukraine. The respondents answered the questions of the questionnaire developed regarding some aspects of the perfumery use. The Pearson chi-squared (Χ2) test was used to analyze the relationships between qualitative characteristics. Results and discussion. Most of the studied aspects related to the perfumes use demonstrate associations, caused by the dependence of the education level on age. The analysis revealed that individuals with any education most often (about half of the cases or more) choose a perfume based on its scent. The study showed that the majority of respondents believe that the price of a perfume depends on a combination of factors, namely the composition of the products, the brand and the cost of the packaging. More than 80 % of people, regardless of the education level, believe that the persistence of a perfume is definitely a sign of quality. The most common opinion among people of all education levels was that non-original perfumes can have a more negative effect on people's health than original products. The "lipstick effect" in relation to perfume products (demand for items of "affordable luxury" in times of economic crises and wars) was observed. Conclusions. The study supplemented the previously found associations of age and some biological and behavioral aspects of perfume use among the population of Ukraine with data on the presence or absence of such associations in relation to the education level [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Ciência & Trópico (03042685) is the property of Fundacao Joaquim Nabuco and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Patchouli is a prized tropical medicinal herb with broad-spectrum therapeutic importance. The present research work describes development of an efficient callus-mediated plant regeneration protocol along with associated germplasm portability system (via alginate-encapsulation). Using 1.5 mg/l α-naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) and 1.0 mg/l 2, 4-dichlorophenoxy acetic acid (2, 4-D), highly proliferative friable calli were produced that subsequently underwent organogenesis in combinatorial cytokinin treatment to yield multiple shoot clusters. The highest frequency of shoot formation was achieved using 1.5 mg/l NAA with 1.5 mg/l 6-benzylaminopurine (BAP) in Murashige and Skoog (MS) medium. In vitro-derived shoot tips were encapsulated with 3% sodium alginate and 100 mM CaCl2 solution. The encapsulated beads were germinated in MS media with various concentrations of polyamines, where the highest regeneration frequency was observed with 1.5 mg/l spermidine. The regenerated shoots were rooted in basal MS medium and were successfully acclimatized with 96% survival rate. Genetic homogeneity amongst the regenerated plantlets was validated using Start Codon Targeted polymorphism (SCoT) and CAAT box-derived polymorphism (CBDP) ascertaining a high degree of clonal fidelity. The essential oil (EO) profiling of the donor plant and the in vitro-derived plantlets revealed identical composition. Furthermore, the antibacterial activities of various tissue extracts and extracted EOs were evaluated against the opportunistic pathogens viz. Klebsiella pneumoniae (MTCC 109), Salmonella typhii (MTCC 733), Micrococcus luteus (MTCC 2470) and Staphylococcus aureus (MTCC 96). The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) ranged from 0.31 to 5.0 mg/ml and 2.5 to 5.0 mg/ml against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, respectively. Eventually, the present research provides a holistic insight into the rapid regeneration of quality planting material as well as pharmacological bioprospection of patchouli along with the scope of further qualitative improvement via genetic transformation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this Review, both the scientific literature and patents have been analysed to gather, examine and classify synthetic strategies developed to access spirocyclic molecules having olfactory properties of interest for the perfume industry. New structures have been reported at a steady state since 1961 with a particularly intense activity in the 80's. In the diversity of olfactory properties observed, spirocyclic molecules were found to be quite frequently woody, as well as fruity and ambery, among other tonalities. More recent data reflect the evolution of modern synthetic organic chemistry towards bioinspiration, enantioselective reactions, green and sustainable chemistry and biotechnology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim. The study encompassed some aspects related to perfumes use, which can potentially influence the individual perfume choice, in particular, among different age groups of the Ukrainian population. Factors related to perfumes choice, the state of awareness of respondents regarding quality, safety, and existing stereotypes regarding the characteristics of perfumes and potential harmful effects on the human body were investigated. Materials and methods. The analysis was performed on a sample of 124 residents of Ukraine. Respondents, who were randomly selected, were offered a questionnaire, developed by us, which included 15 items on the demographic characteristics of the subjects and questions related to the perfume use of and stereotypes about them. The Pearson chi-squared (χ2) test was used to analyze the relationships between qualitative characteristics. Results and discussion. About 98 % of surveyed persons in Ukraine use perfumery. Associations were found between age and the probability of purchase by the study participants of non-original perfume products and awareness of the safety of various perfume products. It has been established, that the determining factors when choosing a perfume is a certain scent, while the brand is given secondary importance. An increase in the effect of the brand in older age groups of the population has been demonstrated. Behavioral features of perfume use have been established: in younger women, it is associated with increased self-esteem and the influence of social networks, with age, the focus shifts to the desire for a positive effect on the mood from the use of a certain fragrance. However, in all age groups, the main purpose of perfume using was to improve the emotional state. Middle-aged women are more democratic in choosing perfumery with a specific gender orientation. Conclusions. For the first time in Ukraine, a pilot study was conducted to find possible associations between some biological, behavioral and demographic characteristics and the perfume use. Such factors as age and education level are promising for further analysis of the selected issues [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Imines or Schiff bases (SB) are formed by the condensation of an aldehyde or a ketone with a primary amine, with the removal of a water molecule. Schiff bases are central molecules in several biological processes for their ability to form and cleave by small variation of the medium. We report here the controlled hydrolysis of four SBs that may be applied in the fragrance industry, as they are profragrances all containing odorant molecules: methyl anthranilate as primary amine, and four aldehydes (cyclamal, helional, hydroxycitronellal and triplal) that are very volatile odorants. The SB stability was assessed over time by HPLC-MS in neutral or acidic conditions, both in solution and when trapped in low molecular weight gels. Our results demonstrate that it is possible to control the hydrolysis of the Schiff bases in the gel environment, thus tuning the quantity of aldehyde released and the persistency of the fragrance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Imidazolidin-4-ones were investigated as hydrolytically cleavable profragrances to increase the long-lastingness of perfume perception in a fabric softener application. The reaction of different amino acid amides with 2-alkyl- or 2-alkenylcyclopentanones as the model fragrances to be released afforded the corresponding bi- or tricyclic imidazolidin-4-ones as mixtures of diastereoisomers, which were separated by column chromatography. In polar solution, the different stereoisomers equilibrated under thermodynamic conditions to form mixtures with constant isomeric distributions, as shown by NMR spectroscopy. Dynamic headspace analysis on dry cotton demonstrated the controlled fragrance release from the precursors in practical application. Under non-equilibrium conditions (continuous evaporation of the fragrance) and depending on the structure and stereochemistry of the profragrances, the recorded headspace concentrations of the fragrance released from the precursors increased by a factor of 2 up to 100 with respect to the unmodified reference. Prolinamide-based precursors released the highest amount of fragrance and were thus found to be particularly suitable for prolonging the evaporation of cyclopentanone-derived fragrances on a dry cotton surface.

Saffron (Stigma Croci) is an autumn-flowering perennial plant, and its use has a history of over 3500 years. Saffron has often been considered as the costliest medicinal plant, a premium spice, and the best dye with a golden yellowish color. Iran currently produces the finest quality saffron and dominates its global production (>90%). Other countries such as Australia, Canada, the USA, China, and some countries in Central Africa, produce saffron at a lower yield. In China, saffron is celebrated as "red gold" owing to the red stigmas of the flower and its price, which is comparable to the price of gold. Saffron has been one of the most attractive traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) herbs in the Zhong Guo Yao Dian (《中国药典》Chinese Pharmacopoeia) since its inclusion in the 2005 edition. The earliest use of saffron in TCM was recorded in the Ben Cao Shi Yi (《本草拾遗》Supplement to Materia Medica) written during the Tang dynasty (741 A.D.). However, saffron grown in inland China has been widely mistaken as originating from Tibet. This is because its Chinese name begins with "Xi" or "Zang," which sounds similar to its Tibetan name ("Xi Zang"). In this review, we clarify the origin of saffron and its introduction to China and summarize its various applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The work of historians on perfumery in the Ancien Régime has brought a number of figures to light. This article looks at one of them, Martial, described as perfumer to Louis XIV. Historiography records him as the Sun King’s personal perfumer. Contemporary literary sources, however, paint a different picture, that of an artisan renowned for the quality of his scented gloves, and make no mention of any connection to the king. The source behind Martial’s promotion to king’s perfumer is a perfume treatise published by Simon Barbe in 1693. But research into his true identity, using notarial archives, provides a clearer picture of his activities and suggests a quite different historical reality: Martial Parmentier was a marchand mercier – a seller of fancy goods – who had built up a solid network of representatives in parliament circles and the royal court. He was not a member of the guild of glovers and perfumers, and sources reveal no link whatsoever with Louis XIV. However, this portrait highlights the strong interaction between the glove and perfume and fancy goods trades, and consumers’ lively interest in their products.

The method used in the research was to select some of the words that were exchanged between their voices and explain their change and what was said about them and their alternative in the origin of the lexicon status of the meaning and knowledge of the difference If any, and then move to the new significance in the use of the meaning of the word with other commutation to reach the distance that the word meaning to reach what it reached under the influence of substitution, and the suitability of the relevance of the context in which it resolved, and employed here to know the relationship between Moss Ge bell switch character and significance of the word when the listener and the receiver, came to choose Mutanabi its uses in many successful examples. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Drawing from published accounts of the use of gas chromatography (GC) in the food industry, found in industry-specific journals, this article examines the role of GC in changing how perfumers and flavorists think about and shape the sense-able world. It shows that the development of a novel twist on GC - the use of an expert’s nose as a detecting device directly connected to the exit gasses of the gas chromatograph, rather than an instrumental detector - opened the door to a new way of categorizing aromatic molecules that changed the purpose of expert practices of smelling within the industrial context. The marriage of human and machine not only offered those tasked with developing the perfect flavor the tools for gaining information about what aspects of a flavor they wished to keep, it also helped identify what aspects they ought to discard or obfuscate in their search to improve the natural world of tastes and smells. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Aromatic and Medicinal Plants sector has undergone a remarkable evolution, especially during the last decade. The global market is moving more and more towards products of natural origin. Indeed, of the 4200-existing plant in Morocco, 800 are listed as aromatic and medicinal plants. Among these plants, saffron is a source of income for many areas of Morocco. Saffron, the dried stigma of the Crocus sativus flower, is considered among the main terroir products of Morocco. Saffron has accompanied all civilizations, whether for its culinary role, for its quality of dye or its ancestral virtues rooted in folk medicine. This review highlights the main components of saffron, and the pharmacological activities that result from it and make this product a serious therapeutic hope. Then, a classification of uses of saffron was carried out according to its uses, traditional, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and perfumery without forgetting its use a spice incorporated in many dishes around the world.

Oakmoss absolute, a solvent extract from Evernia prunastri, is a valuable fragrance ingredient widely used in fine fragrance for almost two centuries. Some minor components of oakmoss absolute, such as atranol and chloroatranol, are attested contact allergens and their presence in fragrance and cosmetic products should be as low as possible. In this context, we have developed an enzyme-based protocol upon which these undesirable molecules are converted in a hydrosoluble dimeric material, and thus easily separated from the absolute by liquid⁻liquid extraction. Analytical and sensory analyses were performed to confirm the specificity of the process, the absence of alteration of the olfactory quality of the absolute, and the final titles of atranol and chloroatranol, which eventually were observed in the ppm range. This highly sustainable process is a viable alternative to conventional time-, energy-, and manpower-consuming techniques to produce very low-atranol oakmoss absolute.

Musk was originally identified in male musk deer and other mammals to mark territories and attract females. In humans, musk compounds are widely used in perfumes and consumer products for their superior perceptual odor quality. 1,2,3,4,5 Strikingly diverse natural and synthetic chemicals have exhibited a similar "musky" odor, which has resulted in diverse models of musk odor perception and raises questions regarding the simplistic associations between chemical features and odor quality. Scientists' lack of understanding of this principle has hampered the design of a novel musk compound. Here, we functionally identified the odorant receptor, OR5A2, as a receptor for the musky odor of diverse musk compounds. First, we discovered that engineered OR5A2 with enhanced expression in heterologous cells is sensitive to and selective of musk compounds in all four structural classes. Second, the clarified functional variation of OR5A2 accounts for the reported association between genetic variation and perception in a musk compound. Finally, the revealed ligand selectivity of OR5A2 provides insight into developing a trained model to use machine learning-based virtual screening on candidates for a new musk compound. We propose that OR5A2 contributes to the long-sought gateway of sensing musk compounds and generating their unique odor quality. • The evolutionary consensus strategy improves functional assay of odorant receptors • OR5A2 selectively detects diverse structures of musk compounds • OR5A2-based machine learning model predicts musk compounds Yoshikawa et al. develop an efficient system that allows functional assay of an orphan odorant receptor. They identify the odorant receptor OR5A2 that commonly but selectively senses diverse structures of musk compounds. They propose a trained model for machine learning-based virtual screening of candidates for a new musk compound. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Olfaction is characterized by a salient hedonic dimension. Previous studies have shown that these affective responses to odors are modulated by physicochemical, physiological and cognitive factors. The present study examined expertise influenced processing of pleasant and unpleasant odors on both perceptual and verbal levels. For this, performance on 2 olfactory tasks was compared between novices, trainee cooks and experts (perfumers and flavorists): members of all groups rated the intensity and pleasantness of pleasant and unpleasant odors (perceptual tasks). They were also asked to describe each of the 20 odorants as precisely as possible (verbal description task). On a perceptual level, results revealed that there were no group-related differences in hedonic ratings for unpleasant and pleasant odors. On a verbal level, descriptions of smells were richer (e.g. chemical, olfactory qualities and olfactory sources terms) and did not refer to pleasantness in experts compared to untrained subjects who used terms referring to odor sources (e.g. candy) accompanied by terms referring to odor hedonics. In conclusion, the present study suggests that as novices, experts are able to perceptually discriminate odors on the basis of their pleasantness. However, on a semantic level, they conceptualize odors differently, being inclined to avoid any reference to odor hedonics.

ABSTRACT We describe the synthesis and sensory characterization of a series of compounds which we anticipated would possess the olfactory notes of salicylates. We explored carba-analogues, cyclic β-keto esters and cyclic β-diketones as salicylate analogues. Applying the simple concept of three-dimensional structure similarity was very fruitful. Salicylate carba-analogues and β-keto esters, especially compounds 5, 7 and 10 for the first series and 27 and 28 for the second series, proved to be the most interesting type of compounds. For example, 1-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-3-phenyl-1-propanone (10), which can be found in nature, is nicely diffusive and has an excellent olfactory profile with an interesting dual floral-animal note. In general, these compounds may offer a first credible alternative to the popular salicylates. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Acta Humanitarica Universitatis Saulensis is the property of Acta Humanitarica Universitatis Saulensis and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Isoprenoids are a large and structurally diverse family of compounds that play essential roles in plants as hormones, photosynthetic pigments, electron carriers, and membrane components as well as serving in communication and defense. Now it is unequivocally proved that two distinct and independent biosynthetic routes exist to isopentenyl diphosphate (IPP) and its allylic isomer dimethylallyl diphosphate (DMAPP), the two building blocks for isoprenoids in plants. The cytosolic pathway is triggered by Acetyl Coenzyme A where classical intermediate mevalonic acid is formed which, in turn, converts into IPP and DMAPP. These further combine to elongate into sesquiterpenes (C15) and triterpenes (C30); whereas the plastidial pathway provides precursors for the biosynthesis of isoprene (C5), monoterpenes (C10), diterpenes (C20), and tetraterpenes (C40). The pathway is initiated by the transketolase-type condensation of pyruvate (C-2 and C-3) and glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate to 1-deoxyxylulose-5-phosphate (DXP), followed by the isomerization and reduction of this intermediate to 2-C-methylerythritol-4-phosphate (MEP), formation of the cytidine 5'-diphosphate (CDP) derivative, phosphorylation at C2, and cyclization to 2-C-methylerythritol-2,4-cyclodiphosphate (CDP-Me2P as the last defined step). The genes encoding each enzyme of the plastid pathway up to formation of the cyclic diphosphate have been isolated from plants and from eubacteria where the pathway exists. Studies on the complete biosynthetic pathways using radio-labeled substrates will help in characterizing and identifying the enzymes involved in each and every step of cyclization, isomerization, chain elongation, hydrogen shifts, oxidation and hydroxylation during the formation of many isoprenoid compounds present in food and flavor substances and are highly useful to human beings. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The literature on physicochemical aspects of perfume performance has been reviewed with emphasis on products for home and body care. Pertinent expressions related to perfume performance have been defined. For the first time a model study is presented to account for the dynamic aspects in applications of perfumed fabric softeners. A new headspace cell, which allows precise control of the atmospheric conditions and modelling of the dynamics of the drying process, has been designed. The determination of the deposition of selected fragrance chemicals and their evaporation, combined with olfactometric dose-response data, produced a reliable measurement of their performance in application.