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Today, UV filters are found as contaminants in a variety of biological fluids and environment, e.g. in vegetable crops and surface water. This is because UV filters are widely used in everyday products. In this context, we focused this study on cosmetic products. The study of 742 cosmetic products, excluding actual sunscreen products, but including hygiene, personal care and make-up products and perfumes revealed that the most common UV filters present are butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, octyl salicylate and titanium dioxide. Few UV filters are found in the hygiene products and deodorants and toothpastes are completely free of them. Conversely, make-up and perfumes are frequently formulated with at least one UV filter.

Sun protection products serve as part of a strategy to prevent photoinduced skin cancers. The products currently on the market vary considerably, both in terms of their galenic formulation and their composition. Some are formulated using organic UV filters, some using mineral UV filters, and some using a mixture of both types. In this context, healthcare professionals, particularly dermatologists and pharmacists, are faced with selecting the product best suited to the patient/user, especially during summer. Our aim here is to establish a decision tree to enable an informed choice.

Resume Les lubrifiants et hydratants vaginaux sont des produits de composition analogue utilises selon le cas pour palier une secheresse pathologique ou faciliter les rapports sexuels. Le statut de ce type de produits n’est pas clair pour certaines societes qui confondent cosmetique et dispositif medical. Au regard de la definition reglementaire du cosmetique il apparait que ce type de produit ne peut aucunement etre commercialise sous ce statut.

Concerns about physical appearance and the image projected to others have always existed. Physical difference socially generates stigmatising behaviour, of which women are the first victims. The idea of repairing the body is at the basis of the development of aesthetic care. Socio-aesthetics is a modern speciality, which has developed by linking up with other medical and paramedical disciplines.

Resume Le savon est un produit cosmetique d’usage courant, en cette periode de pandemie, puisque son utilisation fait partie des gestes barrieres. Capable de prevenir une maladie, la COVID-19, il devrait donc etre commercialise sous un statut de medicament. Si l’on considere l’histoire du savon, on se rend compte de la complexite de son statut. Selon les periodes, il a ete considere comme un produit d’hygiene et/ou comme un excipient ou encore comme une substance active, permettant la realisation de medicaments ou de cosmetiques destines a traiter aussi bien la gale que les brulures, de realiser des purges ou de mettre au point des preparations pour adoucir ou blanchir les mains ou pour allonger les cils. L’emploi du terme « savon » etant extremement galvaude, l’etablissement d’une reglementation visant a clarifier cette situation s’imposerait.

Some consumers have become very suspicious of certain health products such as medicines, medical devices and cosmetics. This can lead them to choose to make such products themselves. The aim of this work was therefore to analyse recipes for eye makeup and makeup removal products, as well as eyelash and eye contour care products. We collected recipes for do-it-yourself products found on blogs and social media (YouTube channels, Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and TikTok) in French and English and then analyse their composition as well as how practical it is to make these recipes. We compiled and studied 275 recipes for products that can be used in or around the eye (periocular area). This work has shown that the quantities of the various ingredients are very imprecise, that the proposed substances are not suitable for the intended use and that the preservation of the finished products is not sufficiently guaranteed. The results obtained suggest that recipes for products intended for use in the eye or in the periocular area are not safe to use and that their use is likely to have relatively serious consequences.Certaines personnes sont devenues très méfiantes vis-à-vis des différents produits de santé que sont les médicaments, les dispositifs médicaux et les cosmétiques. Dans ce contexte, elles font le choix de réaliser elles-mêmes leurs produits. Le but de ce travail était l’analyse de recettes de produits de maquillage et de démaquillage des yeux, ainsi que de produits de soin des cils et du contour des yeux. Dans cet objectif, nous avons collecté des recettes de produits à faire soi-même sur des blogues et des médias sociaux (chaînes YouTube, comptes Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram et Tiktok) de langue française et de langue anglaise, puis nous les avons analysé d’un point de vue de leur réalisation pratique et de leur composition. 275 recettes de produits utilisables au niveau de l’œil ou de la zone périoculaire ont ainsi été compilées et étudiées. Il ressort de ce travail que les quantités des différents ingrédients sont très imprécises, que les substances proposées ne sont pas adaptées à l’usage visé et que la conservation des produits finis n’est pas suffisamment assurée. Les résultats obtenus suggèrent que les recettes de produits destinés à être utilisés au niveau de l’œil ou dans la zone péri-oculaire ne sont pas sûrs d’emploi et que leur utilisation est susceptible d’engendrer des conséquences relativement graves.

Concerns about physical appearance and the image projected to others have always existed. Physical difference socially generates stigmatising behaviour, of which women are the first victims. The idea of repairing the body is at the basis of the development of aesthetic care. Socio-aesthetics is a modern speciality, which has developed by linking up with other medical and paramedical disciplines.

Les produits amincissants constituent une categorie de cosmetiques un peu a part tant la reglementation les concernant est complexe. Il existe en effet des mots a ne pas prononcer (tel le mot cellulite) et des ingredients a ne pas incorporer (tel l’iode) (substance interdite dans les cosmetiques). Une fois ces elements pris en compte, il est possible de formuler des formes topiques susceptibles de faire penetrer les actifs jusqu’a la cible d’action, l’adipocyte - l’hypoderme.

International audience; Objective Growing consumer mistrust of a number of ingredients used in industry has led to the development of a trend for homemade products. This now affects all types of sectors, but particularly the hygiene sector for shampoo and toothpaste products. The aim of this work is therefore to study recipes found on the internet for these types of products in order to assess risks associated with their use.Materials and methods Eighty-four recipes were collected from the internet and their composition was analysed.Results None of the 84 formulas analysed contained any fluoride salts, well known for their oral health benefits. Eighty percent did not contain a foaming agent either, which is very useful in the cleaning function of toothpastes. Furthermore, the quantities of substances to be used were usually expressed in tablespoons or teaspoons, measures which are imprecise and could, for example, lead someone to use large quantities of an abrasive agent such as calcium carbonate.Conclusions Attention should be drawn to homemade toothpaste recipes that contain no fluoride and whose abrasivity, purity and microbial contamination cannot be verified.

It has become a general practice worldwide to wear a face mask serving as a barrier against the transmission of pathogens. This has prompted us to investigate whether masks could also protect our skin from UV radiation. We have studied eight masks, four surgical and four "homemade" using an in vitro method. The study demonstrated that they all offered protection against both UVB and UVA radiation. As with clothing, fabric masks offer the highest level of protection against UV radiation.

Background Following a growing mistrust in a certain number of ingredients used by the cosmetic industry, it has become popular in recent years for consumers to make their own products at home. This trend now touches on all areas of the industry, but is especially found in the hygiene sector, with shampoos and toothpaste, and the care sector, with moisturizers and sunscreen, products. Objectives The objective of this study is to analyze sunscreen recipes found on the Internet and to assess their level of photoprotective efficacy. Materials and methods Fifteen Internet recipes were chosen, and then, the products were made in the laboratory following the protocols described. Using an in vitro method, the following efficacy indicators were determined for the preparations made: the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the Production Factor in the UVA domain (PF-UVA), and the critical wavelength (λc ). Results Three of the 15 recipes studied do not contain any sunscreen and therefore constitute a major risk for users in case of exposure to the sun. The other 12 cannot be considered as sun protection products since all of them have an SPF under 6, the threshold value required in Europe. Conclusion The recipes that we collected on the Internet are very dangerous since some of them have no photoprotective effect whatsoever and most of them do not ensure a sufficient level of photoprotection for the persons using them.

Contact dermatitis linked to cosmetic products is a very common reason for visits to the dermatologist, and in more than half the cases, it is due to an allergic reaction. Fragrances are most often the culprit. The aim of the study was to describe the common fragrance allergens in different categories of cosmetic products available on the European market. We wanted to assess the influence of cosmetic type and distribution channel on the presence of fragrance allergens. There are the allergens whose concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products. A total of 2044 commercial hygiene, care, and makeup cosmetic products were analyzed to specifically study regulated fragrance allergens. The influence that the product category and its distribution channel (retail stores and specialized stores such as beauty institutes or hairdressers and pharmacy) have on the prevalence of these allergens was evaluated. The Kruskal-Wallis test has been used for statistical data analysis. There is a wide range of fragrance allergens, the most common being limonene (found in about 30% of products tested), linalool (just over a quarter of the products tested), and benzyl alcohol (approximately 16% of the products tested). The average number of allergens found and their nature varies depending on the type of product in question (maximum number for shampoos and oral care with about 70 allergens and minimum number for nail polish and makeup for eyes with fewer than 10 allergens). In the area of hygiene, deodorants and oral hygiene products are particularly noteworthy, the former for their significantly high number of allergens and the latter for their low number. There is also a significant difference between the number of allergens found in eye makeup and foundations. Our results indicate that the number of regulated fragrance allergens is particularly influenced by the type of products.

Resume En Europe, les « dermocosmetiques » et les produits d’hygiene et de soin de la peau des animaux n’ont pas de statut reglementaire. En effet, le Reglement (CE) No 1223/2009 ne definit que les cosmetiques, produits destines a etre appliques sur les parties superficielles du corps humain.

Resume Les differentes affaires sanitaires qui ont eu lieu en France depuis une quarantaine d’annees ont influence la reglementation des produits cosmetiques. L’influence la plus evidente est celle de « L’affaire du talc Morhange » qui a initie leur reglementation. Par la suite, « L’Affaire du sang contamine », par le biais de la creation de l’Afssaps, a donne aux produits cosmetiques une autorite de tutelle et les fait desormais classer comme des produits de sante. Enfin, plus recemment « L’Affaire Mediator » a entraine, entre autres, une prise de conscience de la notion de conflits d’interet dans le domaine des produits de sante, donc des produits cosmetiques.

WOS:000569919500022; This study was focused on the phenolic content and associated cosmetic activities of seven brown marine macroalgae:Alaria esculenta,Ascophyllum nodosum,Bifurcaria bifurcata,Fucus serratus,Halidrys siliquosa,Himanthalia elongata, andLaminaria ochroleuca, selected for their abundance in Brittany and their phlorotannin production. Phlorotannins were extracted by maceration followed by a liquid/liquid purification to obtain fractions enriched in phlorotannins. Seasonal and yearly variations in phenolic contents were investigated thanks to the Folin-Ciocalteu assay to find the best harvesting season for each species.H-1 nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) was used to validate the presence of phenolic compounds and to compare the species in terms of phenolic signals, as they produce different phlorotannin molecules. Activities required for cosmetic applications (i.e., radical scavenging, antioxidant, photoprotective, and anti-aging activities) were assessed by in vitro tests. Fucales, especiallyA. nodosum,F. serratus,H. elongata, andH. siliquosa, showed higher phenolic contents than Laminariales.Temporal variations were apparent for five seaweeds with the highest phenolic content, notably in autumn. The phenolic content was high regardless of the season and antioxidant and photoprotective activities were similar to those of commercial molecules, allowing year-round algal harvesting. The anti-aging activity ofA. nodosumandF. serratusfractions was higher than the active tea flavonol, epigallocatechin gallate. These results are promising for the use of abundant marine macroalgae as a source of natural active ingredients for cosmetic applications.

Shampoo is a hair care product designed to clean the skin and hair of the scalp. Among the ingredients that go into the making of a shampoo are detergents, conditioners, thickeners, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, and active ingredients such as anti-dandruff agents. The purpose of this study was to identify the composition of 140 shampoos available in pharmacies, in stores of a mass-market chain, or from mail-order retailers. Forty-one shampoos were advertised as "gentle", 12 as specially formulated for infants, 35 as anti-dandruff, and 52 without any particular claim. We analysed the cleansing base, preservatives, and anti-dandruff agents when relevant and identified the allergens regardless of whether or not they are listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 as one of the 26 regulated substances. We discovered that unlike shampoos sold in stores of a mass-market chain and those available from mail-order retailers, those sold in pharmacies expose users to some of the 26 substances listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. We also determined that baby shampoos sold in pharmacies are allergen-free. Regarding anti-dandruff formulations, the largest variety of active ingredients was found in shampoos sold in pharmacies. Overall, the most common active ingredients were olamines, zinc pyrithione, azoles, selenium disulphide, and plant extracts. Shampoos sold in pharmacies appear to contain fewer allergens listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 compared to those sold elsewhere.

Many different chemotherapy drugs including cytotoxics and docetaxel in particular are responsible for side effects involving the nails. To prevent these negative effects, patients are advised to apply nail polish. The aim of this article is to study the photoprotective effect of various products applied in two layers. Sixty-five commercially-available products were tested in vitro. It was found that certain bases can provide non-negligible levels of photoprotection on their own. However, it was noted that nail polishes capable of forming an opaque film were the most interesting, with Sun protection factor (SPF) values of 500 or more, which is a lot higher than the values obtained with sun protection products and similar to levels which can be reached with protection through clothing. It appears that opaque nail polishes applied in two layers are likely to provide excellent protection for nails regarding ultraviolet radiation. If the dark colors are particularly effective towards the ultraviolet radiation, we can also obtain a very good protection with varied colors. The use of one or several UV filters in the formula of the mail polish does not appear to have a particular interest.

Using a topical product is part of the overall strategy for skin cancer prevention. The level of protection attainable when using commercial products is indicated by the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, in use everywhere. This value reflects the level of protection primarily in the UVB range. However, UVA radiation also has deleterious effects on the skin, and it is essential to prevent it, which is why products must offer a wide spectrum of protection. Tests conducted in vivo, before any marketing, are done by applying the studied product at a rate of 2.0 mg cm(-2), while users, in practice, only use 1.0-1.5 mg cm(-2). We now know that this reduction in the amount of applied product greatly affects the SPF. To complete the state of knowledge in this area, we sought to evaluate the effect of a decrease in the amount of applied sunscreen product by studying sunscreen creams and oils on the level of protection attainable in the UVA range. We have shown that the PF-UVA is divided by a factor of 2.2, on average, when the amount of applied product is reduced by half, with differences depending on the product type under consideration (cream or oil) and depending on the SPF of the preparation.

Resume Introduction Dans l’Union europeenne, les produits de protection solaire ont longtemps ete consideres comme des cosmetiques alors que dans d’autres parties du monde, aux Etats-Unis par exemple, il s’agit de medicaments. En France, des antisolaires disposant du statut de dispositif medical sont recemment apparus. Nous avons voulu comparer des dispositifs medicaux antisolaires a des cosmetiques antisolaires. Materiels et methodes Quatre protecteurs solaires ont fait l’objet de tests in vitro afin de determiner leur efficacite dans les domaines UVB et UVA, ainsi que leur photo-stabilite et leur resistance a l’eau. Il s’agissait de deux produits cosmetiques (Depiwhite S Soin photoprotecteur ® SPF 50+ et Urgo cicatrices ® SPF 30) et de deux dispositifs medicaux (DM) de classe I (Actinica lotion ® et Kelo-cote UV ® Gel pour cicatrices). Le principe de la methode in vitro utilisee repose sur la mesure de la transmittance d’un echantillon de produit applique sur une plaque de poly(methacrylate de methyle), a l’aide d’un spectrophotometre a sphere d’integration. Nous avons pu ainsi determiner le SPF de ces differents produits, leur photo-stabilite et leur niveau de resistance a l’eau. Resultats Du point de vue de l’efficacite, trois des quatre produits testes respectent les recommandations concernant les produits solaires en Europe, a savoir un ratio entre la protection dans le domaine UVB et celle dans le domaine UVA inferieur ou egal a 3 et une longueur d’onde critique (λ c ) superieure ou egale a 370 nm. C’est le produit Actinica lotion ® qui est le plus efficace, mais aussi le plus photo-stable, tout au moins dans le domaine UVB, des deux DM testes. Les quatre produits testes s’averent resistants a l’eau. Discussion Des produits presents sur le marche sous des statuts differents, avec des allegations differentes, presentent dans les conditions de notre etude des proprietes filtrantes equivalentes.

There are relatively few authorized ultraviolet filters in Europe and this presents a certain number of problems when we want to formulate a sun protection product which both ensures a high level of protection and respects the recommendations in force in terms of broad-spectrum efficacy, with, in particular, a critical wavelength (λc) greater than or equal to 370 nm. A new ultraviolet filter has just been launched on the market. Known as tris-biphenyl triazine, it is the first filter to be registered on Annexe VI of "Cosmetics Regulation" (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council, which gives a list of the ultraviolet filters allowed in cosmetic products, since the regulation came into force in July 2013. This filter is both very effective (as it enables 2 SPF units and 1 UVA-PF units to be obtained respectively, by percentage of use) and very photostable (since the SPF and UVA-PF do not vary after 2h of irradiation in a solar simulator). Its broad spectrum associated with its qualities in terms of efficacy and photostability make it a choice ingredient for the formulation of sun protection products.

Microalgae represent an active ingredient resource of great interest for cosmetic industry due to their protein content, up to 75% of dry weight in some species. Amino acids (5%–20%), carbohydrates (up to 20%), as well as lipids, vitamins (B, C, A), and trace elements (iron, copper, and zinc) can also be found in microalgae. Moisturizing, brightness, firmness of the skin, slimming and protection are arguments claimed by industrials. Genera such as Chlorella, Tetraselmis, Dunaliella, Emiliana, Noctiluca are the ones with concrete applications in the cosmetics industry.

The immunosuppressive properties of Benzophenone-4, an UV-filter and three ingredients, Allantoin, Bisabolol and Enoxolon used in sunscreen formulation, previously characterized as anti-inflammatory compounds, are studied. The results of this study demonstrate that four tested molecules have effects on DCs and T cells which are the most important cells of the immune system. The impact is also visible on keratinocyte cells which are in the direct contact with skin sunscreens. Each ingredient should be used with caution at reduced doses or even removed from some cosmetic preparations, such as sunscreens.

Dans cet article on s'interesse aux ingredients specifiques retrouves dans les shampooings traitants. Ces actifs peuvent etre adaptes aux etats pelliculaires (pellicules seches ou grasses), aux cheveux secs, aux cheveux gras, aux cheveux indisciplines, aux cheveux en etat de stress ou bien hebergeant un parasite, le pou. Leurs mecanismes d'action sont detailles mais egalement leur toxicologie et la reglementation qui les concerne (si necessaire).

Cet article traite des ingredients de base retrouves dans les shampooings. Les shampooings, generalement des solutions moussantes destinees a nettoyer les cheveux et le cuir chevelu sont des formules tres simples ne renfermant que peu de matieres premieres. La base lavante composee d’eau et de tensioactifs constitue la phase majoritaire de la preparation. Tensioactifs et additifs (epaississants, sequestrants, conservateurs, adaptateurs de pH) sont detailles du point de vue de leur role dans la formule mais egalement du point de vue toxicologique.

Given that previous studies have highlighted the anti-inflammatory nature, which is influenced by UV radiation, of a certain number of ultraviolet filters currently used in Europe, it seemed interesting to evaluate the persistence of this type of effect. The persistence of the anti-inflammatory effect of fourteen preparations, each containing one of the ultraviolet filters authorized by Regulation (CE) No. 1223/2009, and of 10 commercially-available sun products was studied using the phorbol-myristate-acetate test on mice, up to 6 and a half hours after application. We can observe that a benzophenone, oxybenzone, a PABA derivative, octyldimethylPABA and a derivative of cinnamic acid, OMC as well as 3 commercially-available products, display a very marked anti-inflammatory effect at the end of our experimentation phase. The type of effect observed could encourage users to prolong the time that they are exposed to the sun, due to there being no warning signs, namely sunburn.

BB creams appeared on the market quite recently. These creams, which give a perfect complexion by covering up the skin's blemishes, have a photoprotective effect in the majority of cases. An SPF value ranging from 10 to 45 concerning the products we tested is displayed on the packaging. The 21 commercially-available BB creams were tested to assess their efficacy (determination of the SPF) and their photostability (determination of their efficacy after UV irradiation). It was shown that 70% of the products tested have an SPF determined in vitro by us which matches the SPF displayed on the product. For the remaining 30%, it can be seen that products have SPF values of between 2 and 10 times lower than those indicated on the products. It can also be noted that there is a large disparity in terms of photostability since, under the same experimental conditions, however, some products only lose 5% of their photoprotective efficacy, whereas others lose 60%.

In diatoms, the main photosynthetic pigments are chlorophylls a and c, fucoxanthin, diadinoxanthin and diatoxanthin. The marine pennate diatom Haslea ostrearia has long been known for producing, in addition to these generic pigments, a water-soluble blue pigment, marennine. This pigment, responsible for the greening of oysters in western France, presents different biological activities: allelopathic, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiviral, and growth-inhibiting. A method to extract and purify marennine has been developed, but its chemical structure could hitherto not be resolved. For decades, H. ostrearia was the only organism known to produce marennine, and can be found worldwide. Our knowledge about H. ostrearia-like diatom biodiversity has recently been extended with the discovery of several new species of blue diatoms, the recently described H. karadagensis, H. silbo sp. inedit. and H. provincialis sp. inedit. These blue diatoms produce different marennine-like pigments, which belong to the same chemical family and present similar biological activities. Aside from being a potential source of natural blue pigments, H. ostrearia-like diatoms thus present a commercial potential for aquaculture, cosmetics, food and health industries.

Cerium oxide (CeO2) nanopowders were successfully synthesized by a simple microwave-hydrothermal method. The UVB protection of an emulsion containing CeO2 was evaluated in vitro and compared to the one provided by the same emulsion, zinc oxide (ZnO) instead of CeO2. CeO2 offered better protection against UVB radiation. Finally, in vitro cytotoxicity of CeO2 and various ZnO commercial sunscreens was carried out using NCTC2544 cell line. Assessment of cell viability demonstrated that all tested ZnO commercial sunscreens reduce cell viability in a dose- and time-dependent manner whereas CeO2 particles did not produce any effects on NCTC2544 growth at the highest concentration tested (80 µg/ml).

La mode du bronzage est toujours d’actualite. Le lien entre exposition solaire et developpement de cancer cutane est clairement etabli. L’usage d’un produit de protection solaire s’avere donc indispensable. Il convient toutefois de mettre en garde vis-a-vis des produits formules exclusivement avec des filtres mineraux. Sur 17 produits de ce type etudies, le facteur de protection solaire (SPF) determine par methode in vitro s’avere inferieur a celui affiche sur l’emballage. Pour ceux contenant des melanges de filtres organiques et/ou mineraux, le pourcentage de conformite est de 71 %, 77 % lorsque sont uniquement consideres ceux vendus en pharmacie. Une mise en garde toute particuliere doit etre egalement realisee vis-a-vis de produits commercialises sans SPF affiche.

00000 ăWOS:000390090300038; International audience; The present study focused on a brown macroalga (Halidrys siliquosa), with a particular emphasis on polyphenols and their associated biological activities. Two fractions were obtained by liquid/liquid purification from a crude hydroethanolic extract: (i) an ethyl acetate fraction and (ii) an aqueous fraction. Total phenolic contents and antioxidant activities of extract and both fractions were assessed by in vitro tests (Folin-Ciocalteu test, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, reducing power assay, superoxide anion scavenging assay, and beta-carotene-linoleic acid system). For the most active fraction, i.e., the ethyl acetate fraction, the oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value, antibacterial activities, and sunscreen potential (Sun Protection Factor and UV-A-Protection Factor) were tested in vitro. A high correlation found between antioxidant activities and total phenolic content was interpreted as the involvement of polyphenolic compounds in antioxidant mechanisms. Interestingly, the ethyl acetate fraction appeared to be a broad-spectrum UV absorber and showed a strong bactericidal activity against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Escherichia coli. In this fraction, four phenolic compounds (trifuhalols and tetrafuhalols and, for the first time, diphlorethols and triphlorethols) were identified using 1D and 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and MS analysis. These findings are promising for the use of H. siliquosa, abundant in Brittany, as a valuable source of photoprotectant molecules for sunscreen and cosmetic applications.

When determined in vitro, the SPF of certain commercial sunscreen products can be lower than the SPF indicated on the label. The study of the composition of this type of product enabled us to note that the majority contained substances reputed to have anti-inflammatory properties. This effect is shown by inhibiting the erythema, without protecting the skin, which constitutes a serious public health problem. The anti-inflammatory effects of αbisabolol-, allantoin- and 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid-based emulsions, as well as commercial sun products containing any one of these molecules, have been tested with phorbol myristate acetate on mice. The effectiveness of these sunscreens products is quantified using two indicators: SPF (sun protection factor) and PF-UVA (protection factor-UVA) by in vitro method. We were thus able to show that certain sun products have an anti-inflammatory effect, which in turn causes the SPF value shown on the product to be overestimated, indeed sometimes by considerably large margins.

The aim of this study was to synthesize and characterize Ca-doped CeO 2 nanopowder in order to determine in vitro the photoprotection efficiency of the combination – commercial TiO 2 /Ca-doped CeO 2 – incorporated in emulsion. Cerium based particles were synthesized by two methods, co-precipitation and spray pyrolysis, in order to study the effect of the synthesis method on the photoprotection results. While both samples synthesized by co-precipitation and spray pyrolysis methods present the same crystalline structure and the same elementary composition, they differ in granulometry. The photoprotection results showed that the combinations tested are more efficient than the classical combination TiO 2 /ZnO in both UVB and UVA ranges. While the combination TiO 2 /CeO 2 synthesized by co-precipitation allows an increase of the SPF of 27% compared to the classical combination, the combination TiO 2 /CeO 2 synthesized by spray pyrolysis allows an increase of the PF-UVA of 19%.

Background Protecting young children is a major public health issue. Objective We tested children’s clothing and sunscreen products that are specially designed for children. Methods The effectiveness of the different types of clothing and sunscreen products was determined using spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere A measure of transmittance carried out, respectively, between 290 and 400 nm and between 320 and 400 nm, allowed us to assess the photoprotective properties in the UVB and UVA range respectively. Results Although the photoprotective effect varies according to the type of clothing (UV-protection factor [UPF] of approximately 10 for a cotton T-shirt and 500 for a pair of jeans), the effect is constant for any one type of clothing. Placing fabrics in layers is essential and this enables the protective effect to be greatly increased. Moreover, the authors wished to answer the question, ‘what makes a good sun cream?’ by analysing the formula of each product tested. It turns out that only creams containing both organic filters and inorganic filters have an sun protection factor (SPF) that is the same as the one stated on the product. Conclusion Concerning townwear, the jeans, tracksuits, sweatshirts, pullovers and tights turned out to be very photoprotective. They enable, in effect, to reach a UPF higher than 500. The mere presence of titanium dioxide and/or zinc dioxide does not mean that the product will have a high SPF. Products containing alcohol can be eliminated from the possible choices by carefully reading the label.

Hematite nanoparticles were synthesized for ultraviolet filtration application by the precipitation method followed by calcination at different temperatures. A range of crystallite sizes between 37 and 85 nm (as determined by the Scherrer formula) was obtained, according to the temperature used for the calcination. An increase in the absorbance with increasing crystallite size was observed over the whole ultraviolet B and A range. The experimental band gap was 2.94 eV for the sample calcined at 500 degrees C and 3.08 eV for the sample calcined at 300 degrees C. The in vitro sun protection factor and protection factor-ultraviolet A of a water-in-oil emulsion made with the sample calcined at 500 degrees C as active ingredient were 9.21 and 8.81, respectively, which is higher than the protection factor-ultraviolet A values obtained for titanium dioxide and zinc oxide at the same mass concentration. The emulsion was found to be photostable.

The objective of this research was to evaluate the efficacy of various sunscreen agents incorporated into an O/W emulsion. Within the scope of this study only an in vitro method was used. According to selected filter UVA, we can obtain more or less effective creams. With the seven available filters, we can cover a range of values between 2 and 12. In addition to these seven filters absorbing in UVA range, variously coated titanium dioxide and zinc oxide were tested as well. So it appears that the best organic UVA filter is anisotriazine at 10% (PF-UVA = 11.82). Its effectiveness is comparable with that of the titanium dioxide forms used at 25%. Photostability in Suntest showed that the more photostable UVA-filters are the benzophenones.

Apart from the protection offered by clothing, the application of sunscreen products suited to each type of skin constitutes one way for decreasing the frequency of skin cancers nowadays. After having adapted an in vitro method for determining the efficacy of sunscreens in emulsion form, we wished to transpose this technique by adapting it for the anti-solar sticks for the evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. To do this, we tested 14 products in the market as well as sticks that we ourselves fabricated in the laboratory. In a base common to all of these sticks, we added organic (13 filters tested) and inorganic (two filters tested, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) to their maximum permitted concentration in the European Union. In parallel, emulsions containing the same filters at the same percentage of use were studied; to be in keeping with the results on the products packaging on the one hand, and with the results obtained for the emulsion form on the other hand, we were able to determine the optimal mass which needed to be placed on the support used the in vitro test to determine the SPF.