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Background: Chemical hair relaxers are widely utilized by black women, yet little research exists on the allergens present in these products., Objective: This study aims to investigate allergen prevalence in the most popular chemical hair relaxers., Methods: We analysed 41 products from five major retailers, identifying allergens through ingredient lists and comparing them to the 2020 American Contact Dermatitis Group Core allergen series., Results: The most common contact allergens in chemical relaxers include propylene glycol, cetyl steryl alcohol, fragrance, D/L-a-tocopherol, tea tree oil and cocamidopropyl betaine., Conclusion: Understanding allergen exposure in products used by individuals with textured hair is needed for managing contact dermatitis in diverse populations. This analysis underscores the presence of potential allergens in hair relaxers, emphasizing the importance of dermatologists' awareness and patient scrutiny of ingredient lists., (© 2024 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Rinse-off cosmetic products, primarily shampoos, are frequently implicated in the onset of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) caused by alkyl glucosides (AGs). AGs are increasingly popular surfactants and known contact allergens. Glucoside-induced ACD was most frequently observed with shampoos and skin-cleansing products in both consumer and occupational settings. Thereby, studies have shown that atopic individuals are the most susceptible to ACD. Also, several investigations have indicated that individuals with sensitive skin might be more prone to skin allergies. This is why the presence of AGs was investigated in shampoos and body cleansers marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin. For this purpose, the website of Amazon.com was surveyed. Four groups of cosmetics were obtained by using the following keywords: "hypoallergenic shampoo for adults," "sensitive skin shampoo for adults," "hypoallergenic body cleanser for adults," and "sensitive skin body cleanser for adults." The first 30 best-selling cosmetics in each group were investigated for the presence of AGs, by analyzing the product information pages. The results showed that as much as 56.7% of hypoallergenic shampoos contained AGs, as ingredients, whereas the percentage was somewhat lower for other product categories. Even though decyl and lauryl glucoside were nearly ubiquitously used AGs in cosmetics over the past decade, the most commonly present AG in our analysis was coco-glucoside. The results of this study indicated a necessity to include coco-glucoside in the baseline series of patch testing allergens. Industry , regulators, and healthcare providers should be made aware of the frequent presence of AGs in rinse-off cosmetic products marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin to ensure the safety and well-being of consumers and patients., Competing Interests: Declaration of conflicting interestsThe author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.

Background: Dandruff is a pervasive chronic condition which negatively impacts quality of life. Effective treatment requires efficient delivery of scalp benefit agents that control commensal scalp Malassezia levels. Delivery of benefit agents from shampoos requires balancing many technical parameters to achieve the desired outcome without sacrificing secondary parameters, such as cosmetic attributes., Aim: To develop formulation technologies that increase the shampoo delivery efficiency of the scalp benefit agent piroctone olamine (PO). Increased delivery should result in increased anti-dandruff efficacy., Methods: Micellar Stability and Association parameters were quantified via dynamic surface tension and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) diffusion parameters, respectively. PO delivery has been assessed in vivo both on the scalp surface and follicular infindibula using extraction procedures and analytical analysis. Clinical anti-dandruff efficacy was assessed for an advanced delivery technology prototype in comparison to standard delivery technology., Results: Shampoo prototypes have been developed that increase the delivery efficiency of PO. Both surfactant and polymer coacervate-based approaches have been developed. Decreased micellar stability results in weaker association between PO and micelles, resulting in more efficient PO retention on the scalp surface and delivery to the infundibula. Increased charge density of cationic polymers optimizes coacervation enabling improved PO delivery as well. Increased PO delivery has been shown clinically to result in higher anti-dandruff efficacy as measured by both visible flakes and underlying biomarkers., Conclusion: Increased efficiency PO delivery shampoos have been developed by optimization of both surfactant and coacervate parameters. The increased deposition efficiency results in significantly more products with significantly greater anti-dandruff efficacy., (© 2023 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Background: The burden of occupational hand eczema in hairdressers is high, and (partly strong) allergens abound in the hair cosmetic products they use., Objectives: To systematically review published evidence concerning contact allergy to an indicative list of active ingredients of hair cosmetics, namely, p-phenylenediamine (PPD), toluene-2,5-diamine (PTD), persulfates, mostly ammonium persulfate (APS), glyceryl thioglycolate (GMTG), and ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), concerning the prevalence of sensitization, particularly in terms of a comparison (relative risk; RR) between hairdressers and non-hairdressers., Methods: Following a PROSPERO-registered and published protocol, eligible literature published from 2000 to February 2021 was identified, yielding 322 publications, and extracted in standardized publication record forms, also considering risk of bias., Results: Based on 141 publications, the contact allergy prevalence to PPD was 4.3% (95% CI: 3.8-4.9%) in consecutively patch tested patients. Other ingredients were mostly tested in an aimed fashion, yielding variable, and partly high contact allergy prevalences. Where possible, the RR was calculated, yielding an average increased sensitization risk in hairdressers of between 5.4 (PPD) and 3.4 (ATG). Additional evidence related to immediate-type hypersensitivity, experimental results, exposures, and information from case reports was qualitatively synthesized., Conclusions: An excess risk of contact allergy is clearly evident from the pooled published evidence from the last 20 years. This should prompt an improvement in working conditions and product safety., (© 2022 The Authors. Contact Dermatitis published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: Synthetic shampoos have toxic chemical agents like chemicals such as parabens and sodium lauryl sulfate which damage the hair. To combat this issue, the use of natural herbal shampoos, as opposed to synthetic shampoos, is becoming increasingly popular. One of the many medicinal plants present in Karnataka and Kerala is Cyclea peltata. This plant has long been known to assist in wound healing, allergy relief, and hair and scalp improvement, as well as serving as a coolant for hair applications., Objective: The key subject of this research was the preparation of plant extracts and fermentation of Cyclea peltata leaf extract with Lactobacillus plantarum, resulting in the formulation of an herbal shampoo., Method: The leaf extract contained alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, phenolic acid, saponins, and proteins, according to previous research by this group. The fermented product showed the presence of lactic acid, which was a boon for shampoo base as it protects the hair from the sunlight and improves the texture and strength of hair fibers. Cyclea peltata was used as the main ingredient in herbal shampoo formulations, along with other herbal ingredients, and the formulated shampoo was characterized for its different organoleptic (Color, odor) and physicochemical properties (pH, solid content, wettability, emulsification, and foam stability) to find the best formulation., Result: Formulation H2 showed better organoleptic and physicochemical properties and thus was chosen as the best formulation among the 11 formulations., Conclusion: Formulation H2 is regarded as the best formulation based on the results of the physicochemical tests (Pleasant odor, pH 3.01, solid content of 5.75%, wettability of 1.68 s, and percentage emulsification of 68.75%)., (© 2021 Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

We evaluated whether hair products, which may contain carcinogens and endocrine disruptors that can be absorbed into the bloodstream, are related to ovarian cancer incidence in a prospective cohort. After excluding women with a history of ovarian cancer or bilateral oophorectomy, 40 559 Sister Study participants ages 35-74 at enrollment (2003-2009) were included. Participants completed questionnaires on hair product use, including hair dyes, straighteners/relaxers and permanents/body waves, in the past 12 months. Cox regression was used to estimate adjusted hazard ratios (HRs) and 95% confidence intervals (CIs) for the association between hair products and incident ovarian cancer. We assessed associations stratified by tumor type (serous, non-serous). Over a mean follow-up of 10 years, 241 women were diagnosed with ovarian cancer. Ever use of any of the examined hair products during the past year was not associated with ovarian cancer risk. However, frequent use (>4 times/year) of straighteners/relaxers or pressing products in the past year was associated with an increased risk of ovarian cancer (HR = 2.19, 95% CI: 1.12-4.27). Ever use of permanent hair dye was positively associated with non-serous (HR = 1.94, 95% CI 1.12-3.37), but inversely associated with serous (HR = 0.65, 95% CI: 0.43-0.99) tumors (p-for-heterogeneity = 0.002). Our novel findings suggest that frequent use of hair straighteners/relaxers or pressing products, which are primarily used by African American/Black women, and possibly permanent hair dye, may be associated with the occurrence of ovarian cancers., (Published by Oxford University Press 2021.)

Objective: Cationic guar is an important polysaccharide used as a hair conditioning agent in personal care products. In this article, we report streaming potential data demonstrating its behaviour as it interacts electrostatically with hair. Several cationic guar variants with different molecular weights (MWs) and charge densities (CDs) were examined., Methods: All experiments were carried out with a custom-designed streaming potential instrument so that in situ, real-time data were monitored during the treatment of a hair plug with aqueous solutions of cationic guar and subsequent treatment with anionic surfactants-sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)-commonly found in contemporary shampoo formulations., Results: The MW of the cationic guar variants plays an integral role in determining the thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer on the hair surface while CD influences the zeta potential. Data were also generated for the treatment of hair with a cationic flexible polymer (polyquaternium-28) and cationic conditioning surfactant (behentrimonium chloride) to provide a frame of reference. The deposition behaviour on hair of high MW cationic guar variants is distinct from these conventional molecules in terms of its electrokinetic properties. We also examined the electrokinetic behaviour of cationic guar on hair types from different racial backgrounds. While the cationic guar treatment yielded similar results for the different hair types, anionic surfactant treatment resulted in quicker sorption and desorption from African, European 65% grey, and Mulatto hair as compared to Chinese, European dark brown, and Indian hair., Conclusion: We introduce an in situ technique for measuring the dynamic sorption/desorption of charged molecules on the surface of human hair. Evaluation of a series of cationic guar species revealed varying behaviour depending on the MW and CD of the polysaccharide. Our data also demonstrate differences in the desorption properties of typical shampoo surfactants for hair from diverse racial backgrounds., (© 2021 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Background: Different hair types respond differently to cosmetic treatments; hence, many options ought to be availed to the consumer. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the use of antioxidant extract from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active alternatives in hair semi-permanent waving and hair conditioning., Methods: The antioxidant phytochemicals were first identified and isolated by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and spraying with revealing agents. The antioxidant potency was determined by DPPH antiradical scavenging and ferric reducing power methods. The extract was incorporated in two different formulations to make the extract perm (bio-semi-permanent) and the antioxidant hair conditioner (AC). The formulations had their performance examined for hair curling and conditioning on Asian and African hair types. Hair damage was assessed by scanning the surface of treated samples on an attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (ATR-FTIR) and by quantifying lost protein on ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometer., Results: The extract antioxidant had an IC 50 of 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml exhibiting greater antioxidant potency compared to the controls quercetin (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) and ascorbic acid (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). The extract perm had a lower curling ability indicated by a perm set of 85.10 ± 3.92% and 81.35 ± 2.35% for Asian and African hairs, respectively, while commercial product, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) had 96.05 ± 1.70% and 93.60 ± 2.21% for the same. The curling of hair with extract perm resulted in less oxidative damage with oxidative peak areas of 3.37 ± 0.09 and 3.71 ± 0.03 as well as lower protein losses of 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg and 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg on Asian and African hair samples, respectively. The application of AC reduced the oxidative damage peak areas of ATG and extract perm treated Asian hair samples by 1.15 and 0.48 units, respectively. AC was also effective in reducing damage caused by UV radiation on ATG-treated samples by 1.06 units (African hair) and 1.09 units on Asian hair., Conclusion: The results show antioxidant extracts from Dicerocryum senecioides as a promising and safer alternative for hair conditioning and semi-permanent curling., (© 2021 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Background: Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a chronic cicatricial alopecia with unknown etiology and a worldwide rising incidence., Objective: The objective of this study was to evaluate the association of FFA with demographic and exposure factors in a Brazilian multiracial population., Methods: A multicenter case-control study was conducted in 11 referral centers throughout Brazil. The study was a case-control study that prospectively recruited 902 participants (451 patients with FFA and 451 sex-matched control individuals). Study participants completed a thorough questionnaire comprising variables grouped as baseline demographics, environmental exposure, diet, hormonal factors, allergies, and hair and skin care., Results: When adjusted by sex, age, menopause, and skin color, FFA was associated with hair straightening with formalin (odds ratio [OR], 3.18), use of ordinary (nondermatologic) facial soap (OR, 2.09) and facial moisturizer (OR, 1.99), thyroid disorders (OR, 1.69), and rosacea (OR, 2.08). Smokers (OR, 0.33) and users of antiresidue/clarifying shampoo (OR, 0.35) presented a negative association with FFA. There was no association with the use of sunscreen., Limitations: Recall bias., Conclusions: The association with moisturizers, ordinary facial soap, and hair straightening with formalin and the negative association with antiresidue/clarifying shampoo reinforce the possibility of an exogenous particle triggering FFA., (Copyright © 2020 American Academy of Dermatology, Inc. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Background: Hair products are a potential cause of allergic contact dermatitis. There are limited data on the allergen content of ethnic hair products., Objective: To identify allergens unique to ethnic hair products (shampoos, conditioners, styling products) and provide a resource for low allergen hair care products for patients with ethnic hair types., Methods: The top 100 best-selling shampoos, conditioners, and styling products for ethnic and nonethnic hair products were determined from 3 major online retailers (Walmart, Target, Walgreens). Allergen was defined as presence on the 2017 American Contact Dermatitis Society Core 80 allergen list., Results: The 2017 American Contact Dermatitis Society Core 80 allergens were tabulated for ethnic and nonethnic shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. A list of low-allergen shampoos, conditioners, and styling products was identified. Fragrance was the most common allergen for ethnic shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. Other notable allergens included methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone, formaldehyde releasers, cetyl steryl alcohol, tocopherol, decyl glucoside, sodium benzoate, and phenoxyethanol., Conclusions: This study identifies important differences in allergens found in products marketed for ethnic hair compared with those marketed for nonethnic hair., Competing Interests: A.R.A. received a Pfizer Independent Grant for Learning and Change. The other authors have no funding or conflicts of interest to declare., (Copyright © 2020 American Contact Dermatitis Society. All Rights Reserved.)

Coacervates formed by cationic polyelectrolytes and anionic surfactants are utilized to improve the user's tactile perception of shampooing hair during washing and after drying. In this study, we investigated the formation and structure of coacervates in aqueous systems containing anionic amino acid surfactants. The phase behaviors at constant temperature were investigated in aqueous systems combining cationic polyelectrolyte JR-400 with potassium cocoyl glutamate (CoGluK) or potassium cocoyl glycinate (CoGlyK) for a qualitative depiction of coacervate formation. The composition range of coacervate formation varied with the hydrophilic group of the surfactant. The surface tension was measured at different surfactant concentrations and constant polyelectrolyte concentration. The surface tension behavior revealed the critical association concentrations and critical micelle concentrations, indicating that coacervate was produced via complex formation through electrostatic interaction between opposite charges. Optical microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering measurements revealed that the coacervates were composed of fibrous aggregates, a few microns thick, and those formed in the CoGlyK system had thicker fibers.

Joseph Burnett manufactured the diethyl ether used for William T.G. Morton's public demonstration of inhaled surgical anesthesia on October 16, 1846 (Ether Day). A later Burnett product was a hairdressing oil claimed to prevent baldness and dandruff. It contained cocoa-nut oil and was called Cocoaine. In 1902 and 1903, it was sometimes advertised as Burnett's Cocaine (rather than Cocoaine), possibly to emulate the economic success of coca-based beverages such as Vin Mariani and Coca-Cola. Coca leaves are now decocainized before use in preparation of Coca-Cola, and the recovered cocaine is used for scientific and dwindling medical purposes., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors have no intellectual, ethical, or financial conflicts of interest., (Copyright © 2020 Anesthesia History Association. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Autophobicity or pseudo partial wetting, a phenomenon of a liquid not spreading on its own monolayer, is characterized by an energy barrier that prevents the growth of a wetting film beyond the monolayer thickness. Applying a molecularly detailed self-consistent field theory we illustrate how autophobic wetting can be overcome by wetting additives. More specifically we use an emulsifier which keeps the interfacial tension between the wetting component and the majority solvent low, and a co-solvent additive which partitions inside the film and then destroys the molecular order in it so that the barrier for film growth is cleared. An application wherein it is believed that autophobic wetting is counteracted by such a set of wetting additives is found in an antidandruff shampoo formulation. We have experimental results that show thick deposits onto hydrophobic hair surfaces by administration of the antidandruff shampoo. The complementary modeling of such a system suggests that the active ingredient plays the role of the co-solvent additive. As significant amounts of the co-solvent additives are needed to approach the completely wet state, the formulation naturally brings large amounts of active ingredient to the root of the hair where its presence is required.

Objectives: The hair surface condition underlies many visually perceived attributes such as shine, colour and the 3D perception of a curly hair style. Many factors can alter the hair surface such as cumulated cleansing/styling regimens or chemical treatments which can lead to degradation of the cuticle edges and surface. Similarly, pollutants, sebum, and shampoo/conditioners can build up on the hair surface which are also perceivable to an observer., Methods: The highly directive light of a laser is reflected and scattered by the surface of hair fibres into a circular pattern. The angular and spatial characteristics of this pattern reflect the hair geometry and the quality of the hair surface, i.e. the outer cuticle layer. Dark flat hair tresses were used to measure the impact of artificial sebum and shampoo/conditioner regimens on the cuticle surfaces. Also, longer single hair fibres from 4 volunteers were characterized for their surface changes from roots to tips, i.e. over the chronological age of the hair., Results: The laser scattering shows clear changes in specular reflection characteristics from treatments and allows for the extraction of the cuticle inclination angle with respect to the hair axis. Deep cleansing or clarifying shampoos do partially restore the cuticle angle by removing residues on the hair surface whereas more conditioning systems can lead to changes in specular reflection angle and scattering, especially for multiple cycles of shampoo + conditioner treatments. Lastly, changes in hair surface can be traced over time of hair age by this approach and are consistent with frequency and nature of hair treatments., Conclusions: The method shows great potential for characterizing cleansing regimens in terms of their impact on the hair surface, either as single or multiple washes. Coverage or damage to the hair cuticles appears readily as an angle shift of the specular reflection whereas the quality of the surface topology has a direct impact on the angular width of the specular reflection thus affecting the shine band on a person's head. Hair ageing from root to tip can be quantified by laser scattering and correlates well with treatment events in time., (© 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Background: Acid straightener products are widely used, and it can cause changes in the hair shaft properties. The pH value of these products established by ANVISA (Brazil's National Health Surveillance Agency) as secure is above 2.0. However, the industries are interested in working at lower pH values in order to increase the straightening effect. Unfortunately, there are a lot of products in the market with pH value under the permitted., Objective: Analyze two different pH values (1.0 and 2.0) of acid straightener formulation and the influence of this difference in the hair shaft properties. In order to provide information to professionals as cosmetologists, dermatologists, and hairdressers., Methods: Combing and colorimetric analyses, tensile strength, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), environmental scanning electron microscope (ESEM), and tryptophan content., Results: The tresses treated at pH 1.0 had a better result in the straightening capacity, improving the combing test in 59.4%, while those at pH 2.0, only in 33.0% compared with virgin hair. However, the tensile strength, at pH 1.0 decreased by 16.0% and 9.0% to the pH 2.0. In addition, the tryptophan content was lower in the tresses treated with formulation at pH 1.0. The DSC analysis showed impairment in the straightened tresses. The images by ESEM, indicated a possible formation of a film around the fiber., Conclusions: It was possible to conclude that the pH value interferes in the hair shaft properties. Tresses treated with pH 1.0 had more modifications than tresses treated with pH 2.0., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Hair relaxers are used by up to 70% of females of black African ancestry. Occupational safety regulations list a pH ≥10.5 as irritant and a pH ≥11.50 as corrosive to the skin., Objectives: To determine the pH of all relaxers sold on the South African market and whether it is lower in no-lye relaxers and those marketed for children., Methods: Relaxers were purchased from retailers in Cape Town, but more than half (54%) of the 39 brands tested were international. The pH was determined using a benchtop pH meter with an electrode for emulsions. Three pH readings were done over 3 consecutive days for each sample, and the average was used for data analysis. Differences between relaxers were analysed using Kruskal-Wallis, Wilcoxon rank-sum (Mann-Whitney) and two-sample t-tests (p<0.05)., Results: The median pH of all relaxers (calcium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide) was 12.36 (interquartile range 12.10 - 12.62). The active ingredient was sodium hydroxide (lye or caustic soda) in 63% of the total of 121 relaxers (6/76 (7.9%) of these marketed for children). Lithium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide (no-lye) relaxers comprised 17% and 20%, respectively. No difference in pH was found between relaxers marketed for adults and those for children (sodium hydroxide p=0.2703, lithium hydroxide p=0.6787 and calcium hydroxide p=0.1048) or between lye (sodium hydroxide) and no-lye (calcium hydroxide) relaxers (p=0.2740). Furthermore, 64/70 (91%) of sodium hydroxide relaxers for adults and 4/6 (67%) of those for children were sold packaged without a neutralising shampoo., Conclusions: The pH of all the relaxers tested was at levels deemed corrosive to the skin and may contribute to the high prevalence of alopecia in females with afro-textured hair. A review of permissible safe pH levels for cosmetic use is warranted.

Background: Surfactants are common ingredients in topical products, which can cause both irritant and allergic contact dermatitis., Objective: The aim of this study was to determine the prevalence of 12 common groups of surfactants and 12 common individual surfactants among products in each category in the American Contact Dermatitis Society Contact Allergen Management Program (CAMP)., Methods: The American Contact Dermatitis Society CAMP was queried for the 12 surfactant groups and the 12 individual surfactants., Results: The laureth/pareth sulfate group was the most prevalent surfactant group in CAMP products (17.9%). Laureth/pareth sulfates were the most common surfactant group in all product categories, except household and eye care products. The betaine/sultaine group (13.5%) and glucosides (10.0%) were also found in a significant proportion of CAMP products. Oleamidopropyl dimethylamine has the highest positive reaction rate (3.5%) but was tied for the lowest prevalence (0.20%) of the 12 individual surfactants studied. In contrast, cocamidopropyl betaine has a lower positive reaction rate (1.6%) with a higher prevalence (10.4%)., Conclusions: Surfactants were commonly found across all product types in CAMP. This study provides important information on allergen and irritant exposures in care products.

Zinc pyrithione is ubiquitous in commercial products particularly antidandruff shampoos. For the efficacy of zinc pyrithione therapeutic cleansers to be assessed accurately, the distribution of particles on the scalp needs to be visualized. Currently, no technique is available which provides the chemical specificity and sensitivity required. Here, we report application of fluorescence-lifetime imaging microscopy (FLIM) for high-contrast mapping of zinc pyrithione distribution on the scalp. Characterization of the zinc pyrithione emission by using both one-photon excitation at five specific wavelengths and two-photon excitation in the range of 740-820 nm revealed its FLIM fingerprint-a characteristic short average time-weighted emission lifetime of Τ ZnPT = 250 ps. Bandpass-filtering FLIM signals at Τ ZnPT enabled an efficient discrimination between the zinc pyrithione and major endogenous skin species in comparison with that of the conventional reflectance confocal microscopy. Our findings provide means for in vivo high-sensitivity assaying and high-contrast imaging of zinc pyrithione in biological systems., (© 2019 American Society for Photobiology.)

Objective: In the personal care industry, viscosity is a critical quality attribute that influences product quality and process economics. Like many industrial liquids, personal care liquids are complex non-Newtonian liquids made up of aqueous surfactant systems whose viscosity depends on the build-up of micellar networks. Measuring the viscosity of complex liquids offline is easily done using benchtop rheometers and viscometers. The challenge lies in measuring the viscosity of personal care liquids online during manufacturing. Being able to track the viscosity of such products through their manufacturing cycle will not only allow for better process control but also more enhanced quality control. Therefore, the aim of this work was to investigate how proxy measurements using inline near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy in transmission mode can be used to predict the viscosity of shampoo. NIR spectroscopy has not, to the best our knowledge, been used to predict the viscosity of complex surfactant systems like shampoo and could significantly affect the way quality is monitored in a manufacturing environment., Method: This work focuses on viscosity changes because of differences in chloride content as salt is often used to adjust viscosity. The relationship between salt content and the viscosity of shampoo is well known following the salt curve. From an industrial perspective the region of interest for the formulation studied in this work only covers a small section of this curve. Therefore, two predictive models were developed: one covering the full range of the salt curve and another focusing on the industrially applicable region., Result: Models were produced using partial least squares (PLS) where both datasets showed some predictive ability with the concentrated region of interest showing enhanced performance [root mean square error of prediction (RMSEP) - 2.32 Pa s] compared with the larger range (RMSEP - 4.44 Pa s)., Conclusion: This work provides a good starting point for developing robust predictive models for in situ viscosity measurements for shampoo manufacturing, where further work into different sources of variation and the extent of the modelling capability with regards to different formulations should be studied., (© 2019 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Objective: Dandruff is a complex skin condition characterized by unpleasant itching and flaking of the scalp. It is primarily attributed to the over colonization of Malassezia yeasts such as Malassezia globosa and Malassezia restricta. Some studies also suggest the involvement of staphylococci bacteria in dandruff disease pathogenesis. We aimed to access the effectiveness of anti-dandruff treatments by determining the efficacy of the active antifungal agents alone or in commercial shampoo formulations against Malassezia and Staphylococcus., Methods: The minimum inhibitory concentrations of three anti-dandruff shampoo antifungals (zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole and ciclopirox) and the witch hazel extract, hamamelitannin were tested against commensal Malassezia and Staphylococcus species using broth microdilution methods. In experiments simulating shampoo exposure and washing conditions on the scalp, we also tested the ability of the above agents in shampoo formulation (Head and Shoulders ® (H&S), Ketomed ® , Sebiprox ® , Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo ® respectively) along with a generic over-the-shelf shampoo to inhibit microbial growth., Results: Ketomed ® and H&S shampoo were the most effective treatments against Malassezia in in vitro assays and washing simulation experiments. Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo ® was less effective against Malassezia as it required a longer contact time to achieve growth inhibition for some species. Sebiprox ® showed variable efficacy in washing and contact time experiments whereas the generic over-the-shelf shampoo was the least effective in inhibiting Malassezia and Staphylococcus growth., Conclusion: From these findings, it is reasonable that patients with dandruff may benefit from applying specific antifungal shampoo although results may vary with microbial species, time of contact and shampoo formulation components., (© 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Background: Topical therapy alone can be effective in the treatment of canine pyoderma. Topical products are commercially available as shampoos, sprays, wipes and mousses. To date, no studies have evaluated the efficacy of commercially available mousse products in the treatment of canine pyoderma., Objective: To determine the residual antibacterial activity of canine hairs treated with mousse products containing different active ingredients., Animals: Fifteen client-owned dogs with no history of dermatological disease., Methods and Materials: Dogs were treated once with five mousse products [(i) 2% chlorhexidine and 1% ketoconazole, (ii) 2% chlorhexidine and 2% miconazole, (iii) 3% chlorhexidine and 0.5% climbazole, (iv) 2% salicylic acid 10% ethyl lactate and (v) phytosphingosine HCl 0.05%; control]. Hair samples were collected from each treatment area before application, one hour after application and on days 2, 4, 7, 10 and 14 post-treatment. Collected hairs were weighed and plated on Mueller-Hinton agar plates streaked with a Staphylococcus pseudintermedius isolate showing no antimicrobial resistance. Plates were incubated for 24 h and bacterial growth inhibition zones around the hairs were measured., Results: Mousses 1, 2 and 3 created significant inhibition zones up to Day 10 when compared to pre-treatment samples. On Day 14, only mousse 3 produced a significant zone of inhibition when compared to the pre-treatment sample. Mousses 4 and 5 showed no statistical difference between any of the samples., Conclusions and Clinical Importance: These results suggest that three of the mousse products had residual activity in inhibiting S. pseudintermedius growth in vitro for at least 10 days., (© 2019 ESVD and ACVD.)

The assessment of alcohol consumption behavior in hair is well established in forensic toxicology. The Society of Hair Testing (SoHT) recommends the direct alcohol markers ethyl glucuronide (EtG) and fatty acid ethyl esters (FAEE) for the detection of past alcohol consumption. In this study, we investigated if detox shampoos which are sold online can have an impact on EtG or FAEE concentrations in hair. According to customer reviews, positive drug testing results could be avoided after long-term incubation with shampoo under a swimming cap. To evaluate the potential of four detox shampoos, we incubated distal hair samples from three subjects, obtained during a standard haircut, for 2.5, 5, 7.5, and 10 hours. For EtG, three shampoos performed similar to deionized water. The fourth shampoo showed additional heavy washout effects with a decrease of up to 86% after 2.5 hours. For the apolar FAEE, no washout was observed. Incubation with two shampoos resulted in increases in FAEE concentrations due to FAEE being present as shampoo ingredients. Further investigation of EtG washout in proximal forensic hair samples (n = 9) with the most potent shampoo showed a mean decrease in deionized water of 23% ± 25%, and a decrease by the use of detox shampoo of 73% ± 12%, compared to non-incubated hair after 8 hours. In conclusion, detox shampoos proved to have the potential to alter EtG and FAEE concentrations in hair during in vitro experiments., (© 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

Shampoo is a hair care product designed to clean the skin and hair of the scalp. Among the ingredients that go into the making of a shampoo are detergents, conditioners, thickeners, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, and active ingredients such as anti-dandruff agents. The purpose of this study was to identify the composition of 140 shampoos available in pharmacies, in stores of a mass-market chain, or from mail-order retailers. Forty-one shampoos were advertised as "gentle", 12 as specially formulated for infants, 35 as anti-dandruff, and 52 without any particular claim. We analysed the cleansing base, preservatives, and anti-dandruff agents when relevant and identified the allergens regardless of whether or not they are listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 as one of the 26 regulated substances. We discovered that unlike shampoos sold in stores of a mass-market chain and those available from mail-order retailers, those sold in pharmacies expose users to some of the 26 substances listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. We also determined that baby shampoos sold in pharmacies are allergen-free. Regarding anti-dandruff formulations, the largest variety of active ingredients was found in shampoos sold in pharmacies. Overall, the most common active ingredients were olamines, zinc pyrithione, azoles, selenium disulphide, and plant extracts. Shampoos sold in pharmacies appear to contain fewer allergens listed under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 compared to those sold elsewhere.

Purpose/Aim: The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not require specific testing to demonstrate the safety of personal care and cosmetic products or their ingredients. Recently, there have been reports of skin irritation associated with the use of commercially available cleansing conditioners. The goal of this study was to implement a tier-based safety assessment to evaluate the skin irritation potential of six commercially available cleansing conditioners and their ingredients., Materials and Methods: The first tier of testing utilized the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) QSAR Toolbox to perform an in silico evaluation of the skin irritation potential of the product ingredients, and the second tier of testing utilized an OECD in vitro guideline test to evaluate the skin irritation potential of each product., Results: Thirty-two ingredients were evaluated using the OECD QSAR Toolbox profiler for the tier one analysis; nine ingredients received a structural alert for skin irritation/corrosion. In the tier two in vitro analysis, the evaluated cleansing conditioner products were all classified as non-irritants., Conclusions: These results provide evidence that use of the evaluated commercially available cleansing conditioners would not be expected to cause skin irritation among consumers. Additionally, this study demonstrates that the presence of structural alerts does not always accurately predict the safety of a product, as focused tier-based testing is necessary to comprehensively evaluate a product. This study illustrates a tier-based safety assessment approach, applicable to a wide variety of health endpoints, which efficiently and adequately evaluates the safety of personal care and cosmetic products and their ingredients.

Acute kidney injury is manifested by sudden deterioration of kidney functions, with or without reduction of urine output. The spectrum of injury ranges from mild to severe, sometimes requires renal replacement therapy. The initial workup includes a patient history to identify the use of nephrotoxic medications or systemic illnesses that may cause poor renal perfusion or directly impair renal function. Formaldehyde which present in cosmetic products; is toxic to many parts including respiratory, renal, and neurologic systems. Here, we have reported 2 cases of acute kidney injury (AKI) after using formaldehyde free hair straightening protein presented with acute tubular injury, responded to corticosteroid therapy.

Background: Dexpanthenol is a widely used humectant in hair care products, especially anti-hairfall products. The hair care industry is highly regulated in East Asia and treats products containing the combination of dexpanthenol, zinc pyrithione, and nicotinamide (vitamin B₃) as quasi-drugs. Objective: Because dexpanthenol lacks a UV chromophore, existing methodologies for analysis in finished products include pretreatments and/or HPLC-UV analysis at low wavelengths at which poor signal-to-noise is observed. These time-consuming methods lack the robustness needed for routine use in quality laboratories. This has resulted in the need for a simple, fast, accurate, and robust UHPLC-MS method to quantify dexpanthenol in hair care products that could be easily adapted in quality laboratories. Methods: The MS detection was performed in positive ion mode with data acquired in single-ion recording for dexpanthenol (206.14 m/z ), dexpanthenol-d 6 (212.29 m/z ), and Leucine Enkephalin acetate salt (556.28 m/z ). Quantitation was performed using peak area ratio of dexpanthenol to the internal standard. Results: The resulting linear curve R² was 0.9998 with sample precision RSDs <2.5%. The accuracy recoveries were within 2% and the robustness results were within 3% of the nominal conditions. Conclusions: The resulting method for the quantitation of dexpanthenol is fast, accurate, and robust in the range of 170.24-1024.5 ng/mL in shampoo and conditioner, which is easily adaptable in quality laboratories. Highlights: This study determined optimal sample preparation and UHPLC-MS conditions to quantify dexpanthenol in finished hair care products.

In the present study, a new preconcentration method was developed to quantify the free formaldehyde (FA) in hair cosmetics by combining ultrasound-assisted cloud-point extraction with spectrophotometry. The method is based on the ion association of FA with cationic phenothiazine group dye, toluidine blue in presence of sulfite at pH 5.0, and then extraction of the formed complex into the micellar phase of nonionic surfactant, Triton X-114. The analyte extracted into the micellar phase was diluted with ethanol, and then detected at 630 nm by spectrophotometer. Under optimal conditions, a good linear relationship was obtained in the range of 2-120 μg/L with a detection limit of 0.38 μg/L. By preconcentration of 15 mL sample, the calibration sensitivity increased by 74-fold. The intra- and inter-day precisions expressed as RSDs are lower than 4.7 and 5.2%, respectively. Compared with other techniques, the study shown here provides a simple, fast, accurate, and reliable method for the analysis of FA in cosmetic products. The contents of FA of the samples are in the range of 3.4-25.1 mg/kg with an RSD lower than 4.6%. The results were statistically in good agreement with those obtained by an independent comparison method. Highlights: A new method was developed for the preconcentration of free formaldehyde from hair cosmetics. The method is simple, fast, precise, selective, and sensitive to detect trace formaldehyde. The precision is lower than 5.2% with recovery higher than 95% after spiking. The method was validated by comparing the results with those of independent method. The formaldehyde levels of hair cosmetics were reliably monitored and determined.

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the efficacy of a multifunctional hair care formulation-Hair BB Cream-containing botanical extracts of Camellia sinensis, Vitis vinifera, and Euterpe orleacea, vitamins, amino acids, UV filters, and silicones for hair treatment and prevention of UV damages. The in vitro antioxidant activity of the botanical extracts was evaluated using the DPPH and chemiluminescence methods. A tensile test, combability, shine, and image analysis were performed to evaluate the efficacy of the formulation. To evaluate protection against UV damage, the hair strands were submitted to UV radiation without and with the application of the Hair BB Cream. The results showed that the application of the Hair BB Cream promoted a reduction in combability values and an increase in break stress and gloss values. After exposure to UV radiation, the hair treated with the BB Cream formulation showed no difference in the mechanical properties test, indicating protection against UV damage. In conclusion, the multifunctional formulation showed several benefits of single product acting in the prevention of UV damage and the treatment of hair damage. Thus, the Hair BB Cream proposed can be suggested as an effective multifunctional hair care product., (© 2018 The American Society of Photobiology.)

Background: Currently while, topical minoxidil and oral finasteride are the only medications approved in androgenetic alopecia (AGA), the cause oriented treatment and immunsupressive treatment are being performed in telogen effluvium (TE) and alopecia areata (AA) respectively. Considering the inflammatory factors in the pathogenesis of these three nonscarring alopecia forms, we have formulated a mixture for topical usage composed of six different herbal extracts (HE) which have already known antiinflammatory and antioxidant features., Materials and Methods: In addition to performing the phytochemical analysis of HE, we detected the gene expression level of IL-1α, the crucial hair loss mediator, for the putative efficacy in nonscarring alopecia. Cell proliferation assay was performed by XTT reagent. After determination of non-cytotoxic concentration, HaCaT cells were treated with HE. RNA isolations were carried out from both non-treated and treated cell groups by using TRI-reagent. Gene expressions of IL-1α and as control GAPDH were determined by RT-qPCR analysis., Results: Results were represented as "IL-1α/GAPDH Fold Change". HE solution caused statistically significant downregulation of IL-1α gene expressions (p<0.0001), compared to untreated control cells. HE treatment ended up with 0.1900 fold change for IL-1α., Conclusion: IL-1α is a direct growth inhibitory agent in hair follicles and an important actor in the pathogenesis of AGA , TE, and AA. Considering together the vitamins, flavonoids, and trace elements identified in the phytochemical analyses and downregulation of IL-1α in HaCaT cells, our HE may be an auxiliary agent in the therapy of these three nonscarring alopecia forms.

Synthetic hair-growth compounds have been illegally used in diverse products to enhance the short-term efficacy of these products. In this study, a rapid and simultaneous method for the determination of hair-growth compounds in adulterated products based on ultra high pressure liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS/MS) was developed and validated. The limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantitation (LOQs) of the method were 0.08-43.6ng/mL and 0.27-145ng/mL for the solid-, liquid-, and cream-type samples, respectively. Good calibration linearity for all compounds was demonstrated with a correlation coefficient (r 2 ) higher than 0.997. The intra- and inter-assay precisions were within 11%. The corresponding accuracies were 86-117% and 81-113%, respectively. The mean recoveries obtained for the solid-, liquid, and cream-type samples ranged from 87 to 114%, with a relative standard deviation (RSD) within 6%. The RSD of the stability evaluated at 4°C for 48h was less than 6%. The established method was used to screen 76 samples advertised as hair-growth treatments, from online and offline markets, over the course of two years. In 10% of the samples, four compounds, including triaminodil, minoxidil, finasteride, methyltestosterone, and testosterone-propionate were detected. The concentrations were in the range of 0.5-16.4mg/g. This technique provides a reliable platform for technical analysis for continuous monitoring of adulterated products to protect public health., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Background: Personal care products marketed for babies and children are often regarded as "safe" or "gentle." However, little is known about the prevalence of contact allergens in these types of products., Objective: This study assessed the prevalence of important sensitizers in personal care products marketed for babies and children. A secondary objective of this study was to determine whether a product's cost correlates with content of sensitizing ingredients., Methods: The ingredient lists of 533 unique personal care products were analyzed for presence of fragrance, betaines, propylene glycol, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, formaldehyde, lanolin, and neomycin. Price per ounce was determined for each product as well., Conclusions: Most personal care products for babies and children contain 1 or more sensitizers. Products containing more sensitizers tend to cost less than those without any sensitizing ingredients.

Surfactants form the core of all shampoo formulations, and contribute to a wide range of different benefits, including cleansing, foaming, rheology control, skin mildness and the deposition of benefit agents to the hair and scalp. The purpose of this review was to assist the design of effective, modern, shampoo surfactant technologies. The mechanisms through which surfactants help deliver their effects are presented, along with the appraisal techniques through which surfactant options can be tested and screened for product development. The steps that should be taken to select the most appropriate blend of surfactants are described, and useful information on the most widely used surfactants is provided. The review concludes with an examination of recent developments in 'greener' surfactants, 'sulphate-free' technologies and structured liquid phases for novel sensory properties and for suspending benefit agents., (© 2017 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Objectives: To determine whether the oxidative stress transmitted to newly grown hair from an unhealthy scalp has physical consequences to the cuticular condition and function., Methods: A uniquely designed 24-week clinical study included 8 weeks of pretreatment with a cosmetic shampoo and 16 weeks of treatment with either a potentiated zinc pyrithione (ZPT) antidandruff shampoo or a placebo cosmetic shampoo. This clinical design allowed the growth and acquisition of hair samples under conditions of varying but known scalp health as a result of treating a dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis (D/SD) population. Two complementary methods were used to characterize the integrity of the cuticular surface. Hair surface hydrophobicity was assessed by quantifying water wetting force using a Wilhelmy balance method. Surface structure and porosity were assessed using dynamic vapor sorption (DVS) to gravimetrically quantify water sorption., Results: Chemical oxidative stress to pre-emergent hair has been shown to have negative consequences to hair surface structure. Compared to a placebo shampoo control, use of a potentiated ZPT shampoo improved scalp health and significantly improved the following attributes associated with healthy hair: hair surface hydrophobicity (surface energy) and cuticular moisture barrier effectiveness (dynamic vapor sorption)., Conclusions: Pre-emergent hair can be negatively impacted by the oxidative stress that occurs with an unhealthy scalp, possibly due to metabolic activity of resident microbes. Manifestations of the oxidative stress include altered cuticle surface properties that are responsible for its protective function; these effects are similar in type to those observed by bleaching post-emergent hair. These alterations have the potential to make the hair, once emerged from the scalp, more susceptible to the cumulative physical and chemical insults responsible for hair feel and look, fiber integrity, and overall retention., (© 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Fatty acid ethyl esters (FAEE) are direct metabolites of ethanol and have been shown to be suitable markers for the evaluation of alcohol consumption. Previous research has suggested that the regular use of alcohol containing cosmetic products can influence the concentration of FAEE detected in hair. In this study we investigated the influence of alcohol containing and alcohol free hair cosmetics (hairspray and waxes) on the FAEE concentrations in hair. The effect of cosmetic treatment was measured against the impact on ethyl palmitate in isolation as compared to the sum of four esters. 10 volunteers treated part of their scalp with cosmetic products every day during a 2 month period (alcohol free hairspray n=2, hairspray containing alcohol (42% by volume) n=3, alcohol free wax n=2, wax containing alcohol (11% by volume) n=3). After the 2 month period of cosmetic application hair samples from volunteers were collected from both sides of the scalp. Hair samples were washed with n-heptane, and then cut finely into small pieces. All samples were subjected to clean-up by HS-SPME and then GC PCI-MS/MS for analysis of FAEEs. Comparison of FAEE concentrations between treated and untreated hair showed in some instances that application of hair spray or wax products caused an increase in FAEE levels. Products containing alcohol caused a more substantial increase in alcohol metabolite concentrations in hair when compared to alcohol free products. Three volunteers using an alcohol based hairspray in the study experienced a significant increase in FAEE levels (+27.4%, +205.5%, and +1287.5%), with one of the volunteers showing levels below the cut off for 'abstinence' in the untreated scalp portion, and levels above the cut off for 'chronic excessive consumption' in the treated scalp portion. Performance evaluation of ethyl palmitate as sole marker, compared to the sum of four esters approach suggested that the two quantification approaches react in a very similar manner to the application of hair sprays and waxes. We would suggest that the interpretative value of FAEE hair measurements from people reporting the use of alcohol based hairsprays are treated with caution., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Background: More than 25% of the adult European population suffers from contact allergy, with fragrance substances recognized as one of the main causes. Since 2005, 26 fragrance contact allergens have been mandatory to label in cosmetic products within the EU if present at 10 ppm or above in leave-on and 100 ppm or above in wash-off cosmetics., Objective: To examine exposure, based on ingredient labelling, to the 26 fragrances in a sample of 5588 fragranced cosmetic products., Methods: The investigated products were identified through a novel, non-profit smartphone application (app), designed to provide information to consumers about chemical substances in cosmetic products. Products registered through the app between December 2015 and October 2016 were label checked according to International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) for the presence of the 26 fragrance substances or the wording 'fragrance/parfum/aroma'., Results: The largest product categories investigated were 'cream, lotion and oil' (n = 1192), 'shampoo and conditioner' (n = 968) and 'deodorants' (n = 632). Among cosmetic products labelled to contain at least one of the 26 fragrances, 85.5% and 73.9% contained at least two and at least three of the 26 fragrances, respectively. Linalool (49.5%) and limonene (48.5%) were labelled most often among all investigated products. Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC/Lyral ® ) was found in 13.5% of deodorants. Six of the 26 fragrance substances were labelled on less than one per cent of all products, including the natural extracts Evernia furfuracea (tree moss) and Evernia prunastri (oak moss). A total of 329 (5.9%) products had one or more of the 26 fragrance substances labelled but did not have 'parfum/fragrance/aroma' listed on the label., Conclusions: Consumers are widely exposed to, often multiple, well-established fragrance contact allergens through various cosmetic products intended for daily use. Several fragrance substances that are common causes of contact allergy were rarely labelled in this large sample of cosmetic products., (© 2017 European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.)

The ingredients in shampoos and other cosmetic products have become scrutinized by the general public and the Internet has contributed to misinformation about certain shampoos. Dermatologists must be prepared to acknowledge the concerns that their patients have about common shampoo ingredients to dispel the myths that may misinform patient decision-making. This article reviews the controversy surrounding the use of sulfates and parabens in shampoos, as well as commonly used shampoo alternatives, often called the "no-poo" method.

Eccrine spiradenoma (ES) typically presents as a solitary tender lesion. Multiple ES is a rare variant of ES and can present in a segmental, linear, blaschkoid, or zosteriform pattern. The etiology of multiple ES is unknown, but several theories have been suggested including a multipotent stem cell origin. We report the case of a 30-year-old woman with multiple painful ES in a zosteriform pattern on the mid-back and abdomen. Skin biopsy of a representative lesion demonstrated a circumscribed tumor nodule encapsulated by a fibrous capsule with diffuse dense basophilic proliferation located in the dermis. The lesions were then excised on two separate sessions without recurrence.

In order to accurately assess aggregate exposure to a fragrance material in consumers, data are needed on consumer habits and practices, as well as the concentration of the fragrance material in those products. The present study describes the development of Phase 2 Creme RIFM model by expanding the previously developed Phase 1 model to include an additional six product types. Using subject-matching algorithms, the subjects in the Phase 1 Creme RIFM database were paired with subjects in the SUPERB and BodyCare surveys based on age and gender. Consumption of the additional products was simulated to create a seven day diary allowing full data integration in a consistent format. The inhalation route was also included for air care and other products where a fraction of product used is inhaled, derived from the RIFM 2-box model. The expansion of the Phase 1 Creme RIFM model has resulted in a more extensive and refined model, which covers a broader range of product categories and now, includes all relevant routes of exposure. An evaluation of the performance of the model has been carried out in an accompanying publication to this one., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Objective: Coacervates are inevitably formed on scalp on using hair washing products. Our goal was to analyse the coacervates in detail to identify the part responsible for scalp stimulation., Methods: Shampoo that increases coacervate formation was applied to in vitro skin and was washed. The residue was then analysed using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy-focal plane array (FTIR-FPA) and X-ray photoelectron microscopy (XPS). And HaCaT cells were used for irritant test of coacervate., Results: Through this research, it was confirmed that the coacervate was a macromolecule structurally similar to a cationic polymer and contains an anionic surfactant. Its anionic surfactant was structurally semi-stable so that it released onto scalp when it absorbs moisture., Conclusion: Coacervate releases sulphate bonding into the matrix when it is exposed to water. Thus, the scalp stimulation would be expected., (© 2016 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Torsional analysis of single human hairs is especially suited to determine the properties of the cuticle and its changes through cosmetic processing. The two primary parameters, which are obtained by free torsional oscillation using the torsional pendulum method, are storage ( G ') and loss modulus ( G ″). Based on previous work on G ', the current investigation focuses on G ″. The results show an increase of G ″ with a drop of G ' and vice versa , as is expected for a viscoelastic material well below its glass transition. The overall power of G ″ to discriminate between samples is quite low. This is attributed to the systematic decrease of the parameter values with increasing fiber diameter, with a pronounced correlation between G ″ and G '. Analyzing this effect on the basis of a core/shell model for the cortex/cuticle structure of hair by nonlinear regression leads to estimates for the loss moduli of cortex ( G ″ co ) and cuticle ( G ″ cu ). Although the values for G ″ co turn out to be physically not plausible, due to limitations of the applied model, those for G ″ cu are considered as generally realistic against relevant literature values. Significant differences between the loss moduli of the cuticle for the different samples provide insight into changes of the torsional energy loss due to the cosmetic processes and products, contributing toward a consistent view of torsional energy storage and loss, namely, in the cuticle of hair.

Background: The "hair strand test" was first developed as a model to evaluate the antifungal activity of antidandruff shampoos., Objective: To assess the residual activity of an antifungal shampoo on the hair shafts of dogs after a single application, followed by bathing with a physiological shampoo one month later., Animals: Six beagles (two males and four females) from a research colony., Methods: Dogs were bathed with a 2% climbazole shampoo. Hairs were collected before application of the shampoo and at scheduled intervals for 30 days after treatment. A physiological shampoo was then applied to all dogs and hairs were collected following the same schedule. The inhibition zone around the hair shafts was measured after incubation on Sabouraud's dextrose agar plates streaked with three Malassezia pachydermatis strains., Results: Inhibition zones around hairs collected from dogs bathed with 2% climbazole shampoo were significantly larger than those around hairs collected before shampooing at all time points (P = 0.003). An increase in the width of the inhibition zones around climbazole treated hairs was observed following physiological shampoo on Day 30 (P = 0.005). No significant differences were observed between Malassezia pachydermatis isolates (P = 0.571). No inhibition zones were seen around the hairs of dogs bathed with physiological shampoo only., Conclusions: The modified hair strand test is useful for the assessment of residual antifungal activity on animal hairs. Use of a physiological shampoo following antifungal shampoo therapy may increase the efficacy of the antifungal product for the control of Malassezia overgrowth., (© 2016 ESVD and ACVD.)

Androgenic alopecia (AGA) is the most common type of hair loss in men, characterized by hair miniaturization, hairline recession, and vertex balding. It affects approximately 50% of men, negatively affecting self-esteem and sociability. Topical minoxidil formulations are approved up to a 5% concentration for men, but patient adherence to treatment is challenged by gradual results that may be perceived as a lack of initial benefit. Herbal extracts, which are also believed to promote healthier-looking hair, have a long history of use in hair care formulations. The safety and efficacy of a twice-daily regimen of 5% minoxidil foam used in combination with a novel botanical hair solution was evaluated in a 12-week, multicenter, single-arm, open label study in 56 subjects with mild to moderate AGA. Assessments included investigator ratings of improvement and subject self-ratings of satisfaction. Investigator ratings indicated significant improvement in scalp hair coverage and perception of overall treatment benefit in as early as 4 weeks (P<.001). Subject self-ratings were significant for improved hair growth and hair appearance in as few as 4 weeks (P<.05). The regimen was well tolerated, and subjects indicated a high degree of satisfaction. Investigator and subject-assessed efficacy and subject satisfaction with this novel regimen provide clinicians with an effective treatment option for AGA that also provides a high level of patient satisfaction, which may help promote patient adherence to long-term treatment.

Female pattern hair loss (FPHL), also known as female androgenic alopecia, affects over 21 million women in the United States with devastating effects on self-esteem and psychosocial functioning. Topical minoxidil 2% and 5% formulations are the only US Food and Drug Administration-approved treatments for FPHL. The length of time it typically takes to observe the benefits is a challenge for many patients, and may affect adherence to treatment. Herbal extracts, which are also believed to promote healthier-looking hair, have a long history of use in hair care formulations. The safety and efficacy of a twice-daily regimen of 2% minoxidil solution used in combination with the botanical hair solution for 12 weeks in 54 subjects was evaluated in a multicenter, single-arm, open-label study. Assessments included investigator and subject ratings of improvement and subject satisfaction. Investigator ratings indicated significant improvement in hair growth and overall treatment benefits in as early as 6 weeks (P<.001). Subject self-ratings indicated significant satisfaction with hair volume and quality improvement at week 6 (P<.001). Subjects also indicated an increase in self-confidence and attractiveness at week 12 (P<.001). The investigator and subject-assessed efficacy and subject satisfaction with this regimen provides clinicians with an effective treatment option for FPHL that also provides a high level of patient acceptance, which ultimately may help promote minoxidil treatment adherence.

Background: Preservatives are added to cosmetics and other consumer products to prevent microbial growth and product degradation. Many cosmetic preservatives are skin sensitizers and frequent causes of contact dermatitis. The use of preservatives may vary by country and/or region, according to legislation, and may be reflected in differences in the prevalence rates of preservative allergy worldwide., Objective: To examine the type and frequency of preservative use in cosmetics sold in Thai markets in metropolitan Bangkok, Thailand., Methods: Preservatives contained in 1000 different cosmetics sold in Thai markets were documented and analysed, based on the labelling of ingredients., Results: Most of the cosmetic and skincare products sold in Thai markets were international brands, with only a small proportion of cosmetic products being produced in Thailand. International brand cosmetics were more likely to contain non-formaldehyde-releasing preservatives than domestically produced brands. Isothiazolinone-based preservatives, which are responsible for the current increase in the prevalence of contact allergy, were found at a significant frequency in domestically produced, leave-on cosmetic products., Conclusion: Preservatives in cosmetics were significantly different according to source of production and type of cosmetics., (© 2016 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

The incidence rate of breast cancer for African American women has recently converged with that of non-Hispanic White women in the United States, although African Americans have a higher mortality rate due to this disease. Although most research exploring health disparities associated with this phenomenon has focused on differences between women based on biology and behavior, both the academic and lay communities have begun to explore the potential role of environmental exposure to estrogen and endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs). This study reviews the current state of the science associating one such means of exposure, hair products containing EDCs, with breast cancer risk in African American women. We found a growing body of evidence linking: (1) environmental estrogen and EDC exposures to breast cancer risk, (2) the presence of such chemicals in personal care products, including hair products, and (3) the use of certain hair products with potential breast cancer risk in African Americans. At the same time, there is also increasing concern in the lay community about this risk. These results indicate the need for additional research, and the opportunity to benefit from strategic partnerships in community-collaborative approaches in order to better understand the potential "cost of beauty.", (© 2016 The Authors. Cancer Medicine published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)