Search

大学生334人を対象にファストファッション消費行動についてアンケート調査を行った。衣生活領域に関する技術習得度を問うと、既習事項である汚れた衣服の手入れや生地素材による使い分けができない者が多かった。技術習得度が低い者は衣服やサスティナブルファッションへの関心が有意に低く、破れた衣服を修理できずに、燃えるゴミとして処分する傾向が見られた。このような背景が、安価なファストファッションの消費につながっていると予想された。家庭科の学びを振り返り、技能技術の定着や自らの衣生活を見直す機会が必要である。, A questionnaire survey on the behavior of fast fashion consumption was administered to 334 undergraduate students. Regarding their skill acquisition level in learning about the clothing lifecycle, many could not master preliminaries, such as how to care for dirty clothes and how to use clothing materials. Those with lower skill acquisition were significantly less interested in sustainable fashion, tending to dispose of damaged clothing as burnable garbage without attempting any repair. This behavior was expected to lead to students consuming cheap fast fashion. Students need opportunities to reflect on home economics learning, establish skills and techniques, and review their clothing habits.

愛知教育大学大学院教育学研究科

Resumen En los últimos años se ha enfatizado que la industria de la moda es una de las mayores causantes del deterioro ambiental tanto por sus índices de contaminación, uso de recursos no reno- vables y generación de desechos, como por las afectaciones a otros ecosistemas. En este contexto, la comunicación proambiental en relación con el consumo responsable es relevante aun cuando su estudio se constituye en un campo emergente que ofrece nuevas perspectivas de análisis, particular- mente, como coadyuvante en la problemática, a razón de su influencia en la conducta humana. Estu- dios recientes demuestran que la generación milenio o “millennials”, nacidos entre 1981 y 2000, han provocado cambios significativos en los hábitos de consumo. Por ello, este trabajo expone los resul- tados del análisis sobre la percepción de los mensajes de campañas de comunicación y su influencia respecto al consumo responsable de productos de la industria de la moda en millennials. Para ello, se diseñó un estudio cuantitativo, descriptivo y asociativo, basado en 399 encuestas estructuradas, aplicadas a hombres y mujeres de edades entre 20 y 31 años en Colombia. Los hallazgos muestran relaciones significativas entre la opinión hacia los mensajes y la variable género, así como una mayor indiferencia (21,67%) de esta población en los rangos de mayor edad (28 a 31 años). También, se encontró que las mujeres millennials son más receptivas al mensaje proambiental de las campañas que los hombres. Abstract In recent years, the fashion industry has been identified as one of the major causes of en- vironmental deterioration, including pollution, use of non-renewable resources, and waste generation, as well as the impact on other ecosystems. In this context, pro-environmental communication regar- ding responsible consumption is relevant, even though its study is an emerging field that offers new perspectives for analysis, particularly in terms of its contribution to the problem due to its influence on human behavior. Recent studies have shown that the millennial generation, or “millennials,” who were born between 1981 and 2000, have caused significant changes in consumption habits. This pa- per presents the results of an analysis of the perception of communication campaigns’ messages and their influence on responsible consumption of fashion industry products among millennials. To achieve this, a quantitative, descriptive, and associative study was designed based on 399 structured surveys administered to men and women between the ages of 20 and 31 in Colombia. The findings show significant relationships between opinions towards the messages and the gender variable, as well as a greater indifference (21.67%) among this population in the older age ranges (28 to 31 years old). It was also found that millennial women are more receptive to pro-environmental message of campaigns than men.

PurposeCorporate social responsibility (CSR) is an increasingly important issue for service brands in fast fashion retailing, as consumers' negative impressions about retailers' CSR activities influence brand experience. Consumers' impressions of CSR efforts arise based on agendas communicated through many channels from different sources. The paper unravels the ‘wrinkles’, i.e. possible mismatches in CSR communication around service brands by studying differences between the three main sources of fast fashion brand-related CSR agendas: Autonomous company communication, news media and social media postings by consumers.Design/methodology/approachThe authors use structural topic modeling (STM) to analyze a corpus of texts focusing on the CSR efforts of three major fast fashion service brands over three years. The texts included 89 items of company communication (CSR reports and press releases), 5,351 news media articles about the brands' CSR efforts and 57,377 consumer generated tweets about the brands.FindingsThe STM analysis extracted 26 different CRS-related topics from the texts. Results showed differences in how much the three sources emphasized topics. The brands' own communication puts emphasis on environmental responsibility. News media tended to report on economic issues, treatment of employees and specific CSR-related events. Twitter showed more activity in discussing incident-based and emotionally charged topics.Research limitations/implicationsThe results feed into the ongoing discussion about how companies' CSR communication relates to communication in the press and among consumers. The authors highlight themes in the individual topics that are emphasized by the three sources, and discuss how CSR themes emerge in the overall transformative agenda.Practical implicationsThe paper highlights how fast fashion service brands can identify and understand different CSR agendas arising around their brand. Insight into such agendas can be used to tailor the brands' communication strategies.Originality/valueThe paper contributes to the understanding of the factors behind fashion service brands' CSR reputation, highlighting how the three main sources of CSR reputation (company reports, news and social media) emphasize different types of agendas.

Purpose: The ephemeral nature of fast fashion has influenced a change in people’s thinking around the world about its production and consumption practices. This change in social behavior has been noticed, as people question the current way of consuming and provoke what has been called slow fashion. In this way, how is the adherence to ‘practices’ of fashion consumption, considered as slow fashion, by young women, an age group inserted in the millennials classification? Would it be a transition from fast to slow? Design/methodology/approach: This research has a qualitative approach, and its type is classified as exploratory, making use of the interview as a data collection technique. Findings: The results showed a steady consumption within the large retail of fast fashion due to low prices, convenience, and easy access. However, the interviewees showed trends in positioning for the consumption of slow products. Originality/value: It is concluded that fast fashion, until nowadays, is the concrete and hegemonic practice of fashion consumption, and it is not possible to view it as an ex-practice, since the three criteria of its classification still remain connected. As for slow fasion, this is in a proto-practice state, as component elements are identified, but connections have not yet been made. RESUMO Finalidade: A natureza efêmera da moda fast tem influenciado uma mudança de pensamento de pessoas ao redor do mundo acerca das suas práticas de produção e consumo. Esta mudança de comportamento social vem sendo percebida, pois pessoas questionam a atual maneira de consumir e provocam o que tem sido nomeado de slow fashion. Desta maneira, como se dá a adesão de ‘práticas’ de consumo de moda, tidas como slow fashion por mulheres jovens, grupo etário inserido na classificação millennials? Seria uma transição do fast ao slow? Metodologia: Esta pesquisa é de abordagem qualitativa e quanto a seu tipo se classifica como exploratória, fazendo uso da entrevista como técnica de coleta de dados. Resultados: Os resultados apontaram um consumo assíduo dentro do grande varejo de fast fashion, decorrente de fatores como preços baixos, comodidade e fácil acesso. Contudo, as entrevistadas apresentaram tendências de posicionamento para o consumo de produtos slow. Originalidade: Conclui-se que o fast fashion, até o momento, é a prática concreta e hegemônica do consumo de moda, não sendo possível visualizá-la como ex-prática, posto que os três critérios de sua classificação ainda se mantêm conectados. Quanto ao slow, este se encontra um estado de proto-prática, pois são identificados elementos componentes, mas as conexões ainda não foram realizadas.

This article has two objectives. On the one hand, it attempts to delve into the sources of competitive advantage of Inditex, the world’s largest clothing retailer, by considering the evolution of the company’s strategies over the last two decades and relying on an econometric technique, Local Projections, to complement the qualitative analyses. On the other hand, the article presents and explains this quantitative technique, which can help to solve some of the problems that arise when attempting to apply quantitative methods in business history, such as small sample sizes, causality analysis or endogeneity. Aquest article té dos objectius. D’una banda, tracta d’aprofundir en les fonts de l’avantatge competitiu d’Inditex, l’empresa més gran de venda minorista de roba del món, considerant l’evolució de les estratègies de l’empresa en les dues últimes dècades i secundant-se en una tècnica economètrica, local projections, per complementar les anàlisis qualitatives. D’altra banda, l’article presenta i explica aquesta tècnica quantitativa, que pot ajudar a resoldre alguns dels problemes que sorgeixen en intentar aplicar mètodes quantitatius en la història empresarial, com la petita grandària de les mostres, l’anàlisi de causalitat o l’endogeneïtat. Este artículo tiene dos objetivos. Por un lado, trata de profundizar en las fuentes de la ventaja competitiva de Inditex, la mayor empresa de venta minorista de ropa del mundo, considerando la evolución de las estrategias de la empresa en las dos últimas décadas y apoyándose en una técnica econométrica, local projections, para complementar los análisis cualitativos. Por otra parte, el artículo presenta y explica esta técnica cuantitativa, que puede ayudar a resolver algunos de los problemas que surgen al intentar aplicar métodos cuantitativos en la historia empresarial, como el pequeño tamaño de las muestras, el análisis de causalidad o la endogeneidad. This work was supported by the Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness of the Government of Spain and the European Regional Development Fund under Grant PGC2018-093896-B-I00.

Aquest article té dos objectius. D’una banda, tracta d’aprofundir en les fonts de l’avantatge competitiu d’Inditex, l’empresa més gran de venda minorista de roba del món, considerant l’evolució de les estratègies de l’empresa en les dues últimes dècades i secundant-se en una tècnica economètrica, local projections, per complementar les anàlisis qualitatives. D’altra banda, l’article presenta i explica aquesta tècnica quantitativa, que pot ajudar a resoldre alguns dels problemes que sorgeixen en intentar aplicar mètodes quantitatius en la història empresarial, com la petita grandària de les mostres, l’anàlisi de causalitat o l’endogeneïtat., This article has two objectives. On the one hand, it attempts to delve into the sources of competitive advantage of Inditex, the world’s largest clothing retailer, by considering the evolution of the company’s strategies over the last two decades and relying on an econometric technique, Local Projections, to complement the qualitative analyses. On the other hand, the article presents and explains this quantitative technique, which can help to solve some of the problems that arise when attempting to apply quantitative methods in business history, such as small sample sizes, causality analysis or endogeneity., Este artículo tiene dos objetivos. Por un lado, trata de profundizar en las fuentes de la ventaja competitiva de Inditex, la mayor empresa de venta minorista de ropa del mundo, considerando la evolución de las estrategias de la empresa en las dos últimas décadas y apoyándose en una técnica econométrica, local projections, para complementar los análisis cualitativos. Por otra parte, el artículo presenta y explica esta técnica cuantitativa, que puede ayudar a resolver algunos de los problemas que surgen al intentar aplicar métodos cuantitativos en la historia empresarial, como el pequeño tamaño de las muestras, el análisis de causalidad o la endogeneidad.

This study aimed to contribute to the empirical literature on ethical fashion labelling. It investigates if complex, ethical, point-of-sale labels that ‘rate’ products’ ethical status on an ordinal scale influence consumer evaluations of fast-fashion garments (a) in any significant way at all and (b) in a way that is consistent with their reported ethical scores. In an experiment, 400 consumers evaluated a set of four fast-fashion garments with two levels of the Tearfund ordinal ethical label, a generic binary ethical label and garments with no label. Purchase intention was the dependent variable. The presence of a Tearfund label promoted significantly higher fast-fashion garment purchase intention, whatever ethical status the label was indicating. Thus, the rating label did significantly influence fast-fashion garment purchase intention, but not in any useful way. This is a novel and significant finding that indicates that fashion ethical labels are evaluated by using similar subconscious heuristic decision processes to those found in fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) markets. Ethical labels that rely on cognitive processing by the consumer may therefore be ineffective, and simpler iconic brand-like label systems that can support subconscious processing may be more useful in a fast-fashion setting.

The present consumer behavior is manipulated by “fast fashion”, where purchasing new, trendy, affordable clothes is preferred over recycling old ones. This changing mannerism has escalated the GHG emissions from the fashion industry. Energy-intensive raw material production, preparation, and processing contribute to considerable emissions. The management of the returned goods from the primary market and further processing through the secondary outlets indulge in reverse logistics. In this paper, efforts are made to minimize the total cost and the carbon emission amount during the process of managing the return articles from the primary market to the reverse distribution center, further processing of the articles at the secondary outlet, and the return of the unsold or excess articles from the secondary outlet. Reverse cross-docking has been implemented in managing the return articles, while environmental concerns over GHG emissions have been addressed by investing in green technology under a strict carbon cap policy. In this research, return articles from the primary and secondary markets, rework of the returned articles, and disposal of the impaired returned articles have been considered. The carbon emission cost at all stages of transportation, rework, or disposal has also been incorporated into this model. A constrained mixed integer linear programming model is proposed and solved considering green investment. A numerical example has been formulated to investigate the effect of green technology on the total cost. The results portray that, though the total cost increases by nearly 2% due to investment in green technology, it ensures a considerable drop of 23% in the carbon emission amount. Also, the result is successful in establishing that reverse cross-docking is a better option than traditional warehousing in terms of minimizing the cost.

The textile and fashion industry is the second industry (after aviation) that pollutes the planet the most, and it uses natural and human resources excessively and irresponsibly. Fast fashion harms the environment. Fast fashion stands for low quality, low prices, constantly updated supplies, and high consumption of natural resources and chemicals. Nowadays, however, the evolution in the fashion industry from fast and unsustainable models to sustainability and a circular economy is firmly established. Fashion industry representatives are paying more and more attention to corporate social responsibility, business ethics, the implementation of circular economy principles, and the technological transition from linear production to a circular economy. The aim of this article is to evaluate the attitude of young Lithuanian designers towards the implementation of circular economy principles in the fashion industry. A problematic question is raised: how do young Lithuanian designers perceive sustainable fashion in the context of a circular economy? A qualitative semi-structured interview was used to collect data for the empirical study. The analysis has shown that the transition of the textile and fashion industry to a circular economy is a rather complex process that requires knowledge, significant financial investment in technological change, and greater consumer purchasing power in the production of products based on a circular economy. Moreover, new brands in the fashion industry do not always have enough information to start a business in the fashion industry based on a circular economy. A qualitative study conducted in Lithuania using the interview method showed that young Lithuanian fashion designers are very positive about sustainability solutions in the fashion industry and try to link their developing fashion brand with sustainability, but this is done fragmentarily rather than consistently. Young fashion designers state that they lack the in-depth knowledge and money to develop a brand in a circular economy. In conclusion, young Lithuanian fashion designers strive to create a sustainable fashion brand and link their development activities to a circular economy in a fragmentary way. Even after the research has been conducted, the question of how to get fast fashion manufacturers to produce sustainable fashion in Lithuania remains open.

[spa] La marca SHEIN ha conseguido en los últimos años posicionarse como unas de las más consumidas en el mercado fast fashion. Su crecimiento y el posicionamiento logrado en poco tiempo, superando a algunos competidores del sector, han puesto el énfasis en las ventajas de su modelo de negocio. El despliegue y desarrollo de la estrategia interna de la empresa ha supuesto un factor clave en su éxito. Pero detrás de ello, hay un coste en la sombra que resulta cuanto menos cuestionable y del que no siempre la clientela es del todo consciente. Tras las críticas por greenwashing, ahora la marca manifiesta su intención de integrarse en la economía circular y hacer su producción más sostenible, pero resulta dubitativo la certeza y efectividad de esta estrategia sin alterar su modelo de negocio. También, por parte de las personas consumidoras que abanderan una ética que no siempre, y en todos los casos, es correspondida con las marcas que consumen debido a la prioridad de obtener un producto a un precio bajo. Es por ello, que el presente estudio busca conocer, analizar y cuestionarse el modelo de negocio de la empresa y sus consecuencias, pero también reflexionar sobre la ética de la clientela en el momento de consumir. De igual modo, otorgar posibles soluciones efectivas para propulsar un modelo de negocio de SHEIN sostenible que va más allá de una mayor utilización de materiales de este tipo, apostando por mejorar las técnicas de producción basándose, por ejemplo, en los documentos BREF emitidos por la Unión Europea. [eng] The SHEIN brand has managed in recent years to position itself as one of the most consumed brands in the fast fashion market. Its growth and positioning achieved in a short period of time, surpassing some competitors in the sector, have emphasised the advantages of its business model. The deployment and development of the company's internal strategy has been a key factor in its success. But behind this, there is a shadow cost that is questionable to say the least and of which customers are not always fully aware. After being criticised for greenwashing, the brand now states its intention to integrate into the circular economy and make its production more sustainable, but it is questionable whether this strategy will be certain and effective without altering its business model. Also, on the part of consumers who champion an ethics that is not always, and in all cases, corresponds to the brands they consume because of the priority of obtaining a product at a low price. That is why this study seeks to understand, analyse and question the company's business model and its consequences, but also to reflect on the ethics of clients at the moment of consumption. In the same way, to provide possible effective solutions to promote a sustainable SHEIN business model that goes beyond the increased use of such materials, betting on improving production techniques based, for example, on the BREF documents released by the European Union.

Esta investigación se realiza en el marco del proyecto Los procesos sociales en la tienda virtual: La compra de ropa de vestir después de la COVID-19 financiado en la Convocatoria de proyectos de la Secretaría General de Universidades, Investigación y Tecnología de la Junta de Andalucía (2021-2022) (Código: PY20_00343). Este proyecto forma parte de una línea más amplia de investigación sobre las cadenas globales del textil y supone la continuación del proyecto Deslocalización industrial y pautas de compra de prendas de vestir en el norte global: Los casos de Europa y Norte América (2018-2019) financiado por la Fundación BBVA (CSO2017-0033). Además, la participación de los tres autores está financiada por el Ministerio de Universidades de España a través del programa de Formación de Profesorado Universitario (FPU)., En los últimos años, el comercio electrónico de moda ha aumentado exponencialmente a raíz de la creciente digitalización y de nuevas prácticas de consumo. Este artículo investiga el consumo online de ropa, zapatos y accesorios en España profundizando en los perfiles de consumidores y la tendencia de gasto. Para ello, se ha explotado, por un lado, la Encuesta sobre Equipamiento y Uso de Tecnologías de Información y Comunicación en los Hogares del INE llevando a cabo un análisis de segmentación, y, por otro lado, los informes anuales de la Comisión Nacional de los Mercados y la Competencia a partir de un análisis de corte descriptivo. La edad, el sexo, el tipo de hogar o el tamaño del hábitat son algunas de las variables con mayor poder explicativo. Se ha encontrado, además, que el consumo se orienta mayoritariamente hacia un “mercadillo online” copado por plataformas de venta de moda rápida con precios cada vez más baratos., n the last few years, fashion e-commerce has grown exponentially as a result of increasing digitization and new consumption practices. This article focuses on fashion e-commerce in Spain by exploring consumer profiles and spending trends. For this purpose, a segmentation analysis has been carried out using data from the Survey on Equipment and Use of Information and Communication Technologies in Households published by the National Statistics Institute (INE). Moreover, a descriptive analysis of the annual reports of the National Commission of Markets and Competition has been carried out. Age, sex, type of household or size of habitat are some of the variables with the greatest explanatory power. It has also been found that consumption is mainly oriented towards a kind of "online flea marketplace", which is dominated by low-price fast fashion sales platforms., Secretaría General de Universidades, Investigación y Tecnología de la Junta de Andalucía (2021-2022) PY20_00343, Fundación BBVA CSO2017-003, Ministerio de Universidades de España, Formación de Profesorado Universitario (FPU).

Executive Summary When I began my undergraduate studies in chemical engineering, I hoped to answer how our society can use chemical engineering to solve global crises: climate change, public health, world hunger. My undergraduate thesis portfolio is a dive into the deep-end of another human-made generational challenge. Plastic is a pillar of modern living – no material is as simultaneously revered and despised. As always, it’s clear actions speak louder than words because plastic use far outweighs any negative public sentiment. In an attempt to provide an eco-friendly replacement to low-value, single-use plastics, my technical project with the sustainable materials capstone group focuses on designing a plant to manufacture poly(hydroxybutyrate) (PHB), a bio-sourced, degradable plastic produced from biodiesel waste. The technology to produce PHB is feasible, but the economic viability is not. To be frank, we anticipated this result, so I positioned my thesis research to answer why a sustainable project, such as ours, is still a fantasy. My research question asks how consumer culture obscures petrochemical life cycles and who is responsible for leading the shift away from plastic dependence. Throughout the research paper, I explore how fossil fuels drive much more than our cars. Petrochemicals, derived from fossil fuels, are inextricably linked to contemporary society because they are the drivers of many consumer industries, such as agriculture and fashion. However, consumerism left unchecked is a dangerous threat to our environment and society. Our technical design project encompasses multiple facets of sustainability. The low-value raw material is crude glycerol, which is a waste product from the biodiesel industry. Our plant resides in Iowa and is equidistant from three biodiesel manufacturers, so we can limit transportation costs and emissions. Through applying inherently safer design principles, our process uses few additional and relatively benign chemicals as compared to traditional plastic manufacturing. The main chemical process is a fermentation using the non-GMO microorganism, Cupriavidus necator. This bacterium produces our product, PHB, as inclusion bodies when its access to nitrogen is limited. The downstream processes consist of only mechanical separations of PHB from the bacteria, rather than chemical extractions. The final aspect of sustainability is the product itself. PHB does not need an industrial composting facility to degrade, and the ability of C. necator to produce PHB from waste glycerol makes the material a link in the circular economy. Unfortunately, when our product is sold at a market price of $4.50/kg as a replacement for non-renewable single-use plastics, our plant design loses money every year. Some viable economic scenarios exist by using government subsidies or making a higher value, medical grade PHB. Ultimately, the design as is would not be a sustainable investment for replacing single-use plastic. Petrochemicals’ invisible integration into society contributes to a number of environmental crises, such as plastic waste, fossil fuel consumption, and marine pollution. My thesis research aims to uncover how a consumer culture centered around convenience obscures the life cycle of petrochemicals and their derived materials. Through applying the Science, Technology, and Society (STS) framework of co-production, I find that the development of uses for plastic and other petrochemical materials are in response to problems they create. Recently, the fast fashion industry has become a beneficiary of this same pattern. After performing a case study on Shein’s rise to becoming a fast fashion giant, I reach the conclusion that a shift away from convenience culture has to come from both producers and consumers. My research contributes to the field of STS through highlighting a path towards a society no longer deeply dependent on fossil fuels. Through my work on both projects, my mindset regarding sustainability expanded and contracted. From the technical end, it was disappointing to find that a project acknowledging all aspects of a material’s life cycle could fail. On the other hand, my thesis shed light as to why our project would not fit into contemporary society. A simple replacement of a petrochemical-derived plastic with a bio-sourced plastic does not take into account the various social, economic, and cultural factors that made the original plastic useful. If a swap for more eco-friendly materials is not the answer to the massive waste problem, then what do we change? Plastic production and consumption have been on an upward trajectory since its advent, and the petrochemical industry’s shift to focus developing countries will only continue this trend. Continuous excess consumption is not a benign behavior, which begs the conclusion that our economic system is fundamentally unsustainable. Sustainability is not a green-labeled product or a scapegoat for producing more. Sustainability is a way of life, one that is not unfamiliar to indigenous societies across the globe. Listening to and learning from these cultures would catalyze the essential shift from the present consumer culture to a future sustainability culture.

The rise of consumer demand for trending fashion items has led to a cycle of ethically and socially reprehensible consumption. As fast fashion industry giants lean into business practices focused on expediting the clothing both into and out of end user wardrobes, exploitation becomes a primary tool of the trade. The exploitation of the laborers in low to middle economic countries who work in unsafe conditions, the exploitation of the ecosystems harboring the waste and pollution, and the exploitation of the consumer are all going to be explored in this research. To investigate the issues at hand, the research is primarily oriented about how trends in the consumer behavior regarding the consumption of fast fashion impact producer-consumer dynamics, relevant social groups, and the environment as a whole. In doing so, the Actor Network Theory framework will be utilized to better understand the motivations behind each party involved. Ultimately, in delving deeper into the rationale behind actions of the key actors responsible for the overconsumption of fast fashion, the ethically responsible choices for each party can be better understood. From these insights, relevant policy can be reviewed to ensure actors behave responsibly, and the individual consumer can be better aware of the implications of their purchases.

U ožujku 2020. godine, proglašena je globalna karantena – po prvi put od Velike gospodarske krize, industrija se našla u situaciji koja je tražila potpunu transformaciju poslovanja. Pad prodaje, gubitak potrošača i ostale negativne posljedice pandemije, nisu bile jedini problemi s kojima se modna industrija susrela. Modni trgovci su upali u takozvani „začarani krug“, gdje je nepoželjno vanjsko okruženje posljedično izazvalo unutarnje probleme. Zara i Shein – predstavnici brze mode, postali su primjer važnosti digitalne prodaje i brzine rudarenja podatcima modnih potrošača te su primjenom različitih marketinških aktivnosti uspjeli u rekordnom roku vratiti se na razinu prodaje prije pandemije. Novo „normalno“ zahtijevalo je i od potrošača da se prilagode i preispitaju način alociranja svojih prihoda. Većina teorija potrošačkog ponašanja kada primijenjene na modnoj industriji, zanemaruje specifičnosti brze mode kao zasebnog entiteta u kojem vrijede nešto drugačija pravila. Razumijevanje toga kako se ponašanje potrošača promijenilo nastupom pandemije, procjena je li ta promjena privremena ili trajna te kako su se te promjene translatirale na hrvatsko tržište, jedan je od ciljeva provedenog istraživanja. Kroz pet tematski podijeljenih poglavlja, nastoji se analizirati i opisati kako su se brzo-modna industrija, njeni predstavnici i potrošači „snašli“ u novonastaloj pandemijskoj situaciji te kako je Covid-19 utjecao na hrvatsko brzo-modno tržište. In March 2020, a global quarantine was announced - for the first time since the Great Economic Crisis, the industry has found itself in a situation that required a complete transformation of established practices. The decline in sales, loss of consumers, and other negative consequences of the pandemic were not the only problems faced by the fashion industry. Fashion retailers fell into a so-called "vicious cycle" where an undesirable external environment, as a result, caused internal issues. Zara and Shein - representatives of fast fashion, became an example of the importance of digital sales and data mining. By applying various marketing activities, they managed to return to the pre-pandemic sales level in record time. The new "normal" also required consumers to adapt and rethink where they allocate their income. Most theories of consumer behavior, when applied to the fashion industry, ignore the specifics of fast fashion as a separate entity where slightly different rules apply. Understanding how consumer behavior changed with the onset of the pandemic, assessing whether this change is temporary or permanent, and how these changes translated to the Croatian market, is one of the goals of this research. Through five thematically divided chapters, an attempt has been made to analyze and describe how the fast fashion industry, its representatives, and consumers managed to "survive" the pandemic and how it has affected the Croatian fast fashion market in the long run.

This study analyses the visual construction of girls and notionssurrounding young femininities articulated by 15 contemporaryadvertisements of Nordic fast fashion companies, available on theirpublic Facebook pages in Finland. A visual discourse analysis identifiessome blatantly stereotypical and a few complex visual constructions ofgirls as heterosexual, caring, innocent, sexy posers, active self-presentersand self-surveyors, carefree and environmental activists. Theimplications of our findings, particularly in shaping societal notionssurrounding girls, are discussed. The study contributes primarily to theresearch field of visual commercial representation of girls by unpackinghow their complex portrayals can create an equivocation thateventually resurrects stereotypes surrounding young femininities. Itadvances studies on Nordic consumer culture by highlighting that girls’portrayals by Nordic companies may not clearly reflect the values ofstate feminism. The study can benefit marketers by sensitising them to how the complex visual representations of girls may (re)producestereotypes. Funding: Academy of Finland [320370]; Strategic Research Council [327237]

49 p. – Bibliogr.: p. 38-41 El fenómeno del fast fashion o moda rápida, caracterizado por la producción y consumo masivo de ropa de bajo coste con una alta adaptabilidad a las tendencias, ha dado lugar durante las últimas décadas a un crecimiento de la producción y del consumo de ropa a nivel mundial con importantes efectos sociales y medioambientales negativos, de hecho, la industria textil es la segunda industria más contaminante del planeta. Con el fin de reducir este impacto, cada vez hay una mayor parte de la población que opta por diferentes opciones de consumo de ropa más sostenibles. Una de las alternativas que está creciendo en nuestra sociedad es la compra de ropa de segunda mano. Esta opción de consumo textil responsable se considera una de las que genera menos impactos negativos por no decir la que menos, puesto que no hay nada más sostenible que dar una segunda vida a una prenda ya existente. Vitoria-Gasteiz es parte de este fenómeno, puesto que además de ser una ciudad que, apuesta por la sostenibilidad, cuenta con una oferta de distintos comercios físicos dedicados a esta esta actividad basada en la economía circular. Sin embargo, poco se sabe sobre el grado en que se encuentra extendido entre los/as vitorianos/as el hábito de adquirir ropa de segunda mano, qué motivos les llevan a comprarla y cuáles son las razones de quienes no compran ropa usada para no hacerlo. Por este motivo, a través de esta investigación se pretende analizar el comportamiento de compra de ropa de segunda mano de los/as vitorianos/as. Con el fin de lograr los objetivos señalados, se ha llevado a cabo una contextualización y una revisión de los conceptos objeto de estudio a partir de fuentes de información diversas y teniendo en cuenta investigaciones y publicaciones realizadas anteriormente. Asimismo, se han recogido datos primarios en la parte empírica de este trabajo mediante una encuesta online efectuada a un total de 101 vitorianos/as. Seguidamente, se ha realizado un análisis descriptivo univariante y bivariante de los datos recolectados, así como varios contrastes de hipótesis para identificar diferencias significativas entre los/as compradores/as y no compradores/as de ropa de segunda mano. Tras el análisis de los resultados obtenidos, se ha observado que a pesar de ser un fenómeno que está en auge en estos momentos, sólo uno/a de cada cuatro vitorianos/as tiene interiorizada entre sus hábitos la compra de ropa de segunda mano, estando más extendida entre las mujeres. Además, se han identificado algunas diferencias entre los/as compradores/as de ropa de segunda mano y los/as no compradores/as. Exactamente, los/as compradores/as de ropa de segunda mano le dan una mayor importancia al factor precio cuando compran ropa (tanto si es nueva como usada), en comparación con los/as no compradores/as, para quienes es más importante la calidad de los productos. De hecho, el menor precio de la ropa de segunda mano frente a la ropa nueva es el motivo más importante que tienen actualmente los/as compradores/as de ropa usada para comprar este tipo de prendas. Pese al menor impacto que supone para el medioambiente la compra de productos usados, los factores referentes al impacto ambiental e impacto social son actualmente secundarios para los/as vitorianos/as en sus decisiones de compra de ropa. Sin embargo, cabe destacar que dichos aspectos son más importantes para los usuarios de ropa de segunda mano que para los/as no compradores/as de este tipo de ropa.

Cilj provedenoga istraživanja bio je doprinijeti dodatnim podacima već postojećim istraživanjima o greenwashingu te podići svijest potrošača i educirati ih o problematici. Istraživanje je provedeno u kontekstu greenwashinga u modnoj industriji te je obuhvatilo dvije kompanije, H&M i Zaru. Istraživalo se primjenjuju li kompanije iz modne industrije greenwashing te na koji ga način primjenjuju. U istraživanju je korištena metoda analize sadržaja. Istraživala su se dva aspekta kompanija, njihovi Izvještaji o poslovanju i održivosti iz 2021. godine te web-stranice, odnosno dijelovi web-stranica kompanija posvećeni održivosti. Rezultati istraživanja pokazali su da je u poslovanju i komunikaciji obiju kompanija prisutan greenwashing te da, samim time, kompanije ne posluju društveno odgovorno., The goal of the conducted research was to contribute with additional data to already existing research on greenwashing and to raise consumer awareness and educate them about the issue. The research was conducted in the context of greenwashing in the fashion industry and included two companies, H&M and Zara. It was investigated whether companies from the fashion industry apply greenwashing and in what way they apply it. The content analysis method was used in the research. Two aspects of the company were investigated, their Business and Sustainability Reports from 2021 and the websites, i.e. parts of the company's website dedicated to sustainability. The research results showed that greenwashing is present in the operations and communication of both companies and that, at the same time, the companies do not operate socially responsibly.

Cilj provedenoga istraživanja bio je doprinijeti dodatnim podacima već postojećim istraživanjima o greenwashingu te podići svijest potrošača i educirati ih o problematici. Istraživanje je provedeno u kontekstu greenwashinga u modnoj industriji te je obuhvatilo dvije kompanije, H&M i Zaru. Istraživalo se primjenjuju li kompanije iz modne industrije greenwashing te na koji ga način primjenjuju. U istraživanju je korištena metoda analize sadržaja. Istraživala su se dva aspekta kompanija, njihovi Izvještaji o poslovanju i održivosti iz 2021. godine te web-stranice, odnosno dijelovi web-stranica kompanija posvećeni održivosti. Rezultati istraživanja pokazali su da je u poslovanju i komunikaciji obiju kompanija prisutan greenwashing te da, samim time, kompanije ne posluju društveno odgovorno. The goal of the conducted research was to contribute with additional data to already existing research on greenwashing and to raise consumer awareness and educate them about the issue. The research was conducted in the context of greenwashing in the fashion industry and included two companies, H&M and Zara. It was investigated whether companies from the fashion industry apply greenwashing and in what way they apply it. The content analysis method was used in the research. Two aspects of the company were investigated, their Business and Sustainability Reports from 2021 and the websites, i.e. parts of the company's website dedicated to sustainability. The research results showed that greenwashing is present in the operations and communication of both companies and that, at the same time, the companies do not operate socially responsibly.

La industria de la moda se enfrenta a grandes desafíos en la actualidad debido a la producción dentro de las cadenas de suministro que alteran el medio ambiente. Sin embargo, a pesar de los impactos ambientales conocidos, la industria continúa aumentando, debido al auge que la moda rápida ha tenido en los últimos años gracias a la fabricación barata, el consumo rápido y frecuente de prendas de corta duración. De igual manera, la presente investigación evidencia e identifica los impactos ambientales y sociales en la cadena de valor textil y de la moda, sobre la base de estos problemas, se describe la necesidad de cambios fundamentales en el modelo comercial, incluida la desaceleración de la fabricación y la introducción de prácticas sostenibles a largo plazo. The fashion industry is facing great challenges today due to production within supply chains that disrupt the environment. However, despite the known environmental impacts, the industry continues to grow, due to the boom that fast fashion has had in recent years thanks to the cheap manufacturing, fast and frequent consumption of short-lived garments. In the same way, the present investigation evidences and identifies the environmental and social impacts in the textile and fashion value chain, based on these problems, the need for fundamental changes in the commercial model is described, including the slowdown of the manufacturing and the introduction of long-term sustainable practices. Pregrado

The emergence of a habit in Indonesia and even the world, namely the use of used clothes (thrifting) became the idea for this research. This new habit is known to be able to reduce the production of textile waste in the world. The purpose of this study was to obtain analysis results that affect the use of new clothes (fast fashion) on the use of used clothes (thrifting). Using the K-means Clustering method and using several parameters, including age, quality, price, and sustainability or awareness. The method of collecting data is through a questionnaire and the research material is the buyers found in the online store Instagram (thriftboys.id). From the results of the clustering process that researchers have done using the K-means algorithm with manual calculations and rapidminer applications, the conclusions consist of; 1) In clusters 1 and 2 the age factor shifting from fast fashion to thhirft is 23 years, while in cluster 3 it is 25 years, 2) In the three clusters the average income that shifts from fast fashion to thhirf is group 3 or the range of 200000 -500000, 3) In the third cluster, people switch from fast fashion to thrift because of the good quality of goods, and 4) In clusters 2 and 3 more people are aware of textile waste for the world. Meanwhile, cluster 1 has the same number of conscious and unconscious waste.

Omnichannel retailing and sustainability are two important challenges for the fast fashion industry. However, the sustainable behavior of fast fashion consumers in an omnichannel environment has not received much attention from researchers. This paper aims to examine the factors that determine consumers’ willingness to participate in fast fashion brands’ used clothes recycling plans in an omnichannel retail environment. In particular, we examine the impact of individual consumer characteristics (environmental attitudes, consumer satisfaction), organizational arrangements constitutive for omnichannel retailing (channel integration), and their interplay (brand identification, impulsive consumption). A conceptual model was developed based on findings from previous research and tested on data that were collected online from Chinese fast fashion consumers. Findings suggest that consumers’ intentions for clothes recycling are mainly determined by individual factors, such as environmental attitudes and consumer satisfaction. Organizational arrangements (perceived channel integration) showed smaller effects. This study contributes to the literature on omnichannel (clothing) retail, as well as on sustainability in the clothing industry, by elucidating individual and organizational determinants of consumers’ recycling intentions for used clothes in an omnichannel environment. It helps retailers to organize used clothes recycling plans in an omnichannel environment and to motivate consumers to participate in them.

The amount of post-consumer textile waste (PCTW) generated annually in the United States has increased nearly ten-fold since the 1960s to exceed more than 34 billion pounds annually. Of the waste generated, 66% is sent to landfills, 19% is combusted with energy recovery, and only 15% is recycled. When left to decompose in landfills, PCTW decomposes, producing harmful leachates and greenhouse gases including methane. In this study, we used publicly available data from 67 counties in the state of Florida from 2014 to 2019 to assess how PCTW generation and recycling behaviors differ by area-level demographic, socioeconomic, and retail characteristics. We also used publicly available data on landfills to determine whether these same factors were associated with having more landfills per capita in a county. This study provides preliminary evidence that people living in areas with higher incomes, that are more racially segregated, and that have more clothing stores generate significantly more textile waste than people in other areas. In contrast, there were more landfills per capita in areas with lower incomes and fewer landfills per capita in areas that were more racially segregated. Textile recycling occurred at relatively uniform rates across counties. Taken together, these findings support the understanding that textile waste represents an issue of environmental injustice; wealthier communities contribute more PCTW to landfills, which are more commonly located in communities with lower socioeconomic status. Multipronged solutions are needed to produce relevant behavior change, including efforts and policies that seek to reduce textile consumption and increase textile recycling at the individual and societal level.

PurposeThis study aims to create a reliable, collaborative and sustainable business environment with suppliers of a company for providing high-quality and low-cost products on time. A supplier management system that sustains existing suppliers by sharing work based on systematic performance evaluation while developing the supplier base with potential suppliers is proposed.Design/methodology/approachBuilt on quantitative approaches, supplier management functions are integrated in the designed system. A quantitative strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats (SWOT) analysis is adapted for evaluating potential suppliers. A multi-objective integer linear programming (ILP) model is developed for the distribution of orders among selected potential and existing suppliers. A performance evaluation scheme based on an exponentially weighted moving average (EWMA) is proposed to evaluate and monitor suppliers' performance over time.FindingsProposed system develops a supplier base by methodically selecting and approving new suppliers, and a sustainable relationship with both new and existing suppliers is established based on performance over time. Decisions on retaining or removing suppliers from the base are objectively made by quantitative evaluations. Orders are fairly distributed among suppliers under the constraints imposed by the management. Dependence on a certain set of suppliers and its associated risks are reduced while agility in offering goods is enabled.Originality/valueBusiness processes for selecting new suppliers, distributing orders among all suppliers, evaluating and monitoring performance over time are quantitatively integrated to add value in operational decision-making. The proposed system is original in the holistic approach for managing and sustaining multiple suppliers of a company based on performance.

PurposeWorker welfare and modern slavery within the fashion industry remain a key supply chain challenge for many retailers, consumers, governments and advocacy groups. Yet, despite publicised worker-welfare violations, many fashion retailers continue to post record sales and profits, indicating that consumer concern does not always translate at the cash register. Research has shown that worker welfare is a less salient area of concern for fashion consumers, and the aim of this research is to investigate the reasons why this may be the case.Design/methodology/approachDue to the exploratory nature of the research, a qualitative methodology was deemed the most appropriate. Twenty-one semi-structured interviews were conducted with Australian fast-fashion consumers to investigate the underlying reasons worker-welfare violations are less likely to elicit pro-social consumer behavioural change and are a less salient area of concern.FindingsThis study found that consumers perceive worker-welfare concerns at both a proximal and cultural distance to themselves, and therefore struggle to connect with the issues associated with modern slavery. Additionally, there was an underlying social consensus that exploitative practices are an accepted part of the fast-fashion supply chain to ensure the continuation of low-cost clothing. Despite an underlying awareness of exploitative practices and acknowledgement that modern slavery is ethically wrong, other consumer values often influenced purchase behaviour and the level of concern expressed towards garment workers.Originality/valueThis is the first study to apply psychological distance in a fast-fashion context to better understand consumer perceptions towards modern slavery. Responding to calls for further research into ethical consumption of apparel, this study develops an in-depth understanding of the reasons why worker welfare is a less salient area of concern for fast-fashion consumers. Extending on current literature, this study qualitatively investigates consumer sentiment towards worker welfare, identifying the greatest barriers to consumers' levels of concern. In addition to a theoretical contribution to the fashion, ethics and business literature, this article provides key insight to guide practice.

Dissertation presented as the partial requirement for obtaining a Master's degree in Information Management, specialization in Marketing Intelligence Despite being an increasingly valuable economic activity worldwide, the fashion industry is also one of the most polluting industries. Conversely, consumers are becoming more and more conscious of the environmental impacts of this industry. As such, the slow fashion concept appears as a very different vision from the traditional fast fashion models that nowadays are still taking over this industry. Considering the growing interest in this topic and the fact that Portugal is one of Europe's key players in this sector, this research aims to explore the slow fashion concept in Portugal. One conducted exploratory research to obtain insights and knowledge about the concept from the perspective of consumers and the position of Portuguese slow fashion brands. It started with an online survey to withdraw general conclusions about the consumers' perceptions regarding the slow fashion concept and Portuguese slow fashion brands, followed by a netnography to understand the behaviour and position of the Portuguese slow fashion brands in the chosen online community: Instagram.

In seiner 2022 an der Universität Tübingen bei Prof. Dr. Claus Dierksmeier und Prof. Dr. Josef Schmid vorgelegten politikwissenschaftlichen Dissertation „Kampagnen zur Konzernverantwortung in transnationalen Lieferketten – am Beispiel der Textilindustrie. Vom Protest zur Policy“ untersucht der Tübinger Journalist und Gewerkschafter Volker Rekittke, wie die sehr unterschiedlich verteilten Machtressourcen im globalen „Fast Fashion“-System zugunsten von Menschen- und Arbeitsrechten verschoben werden können. Untersucht wurde der Gegenstand anhand von vier Fallstudien: 1. Gewerkschaftliche und entwicklungspolitische Strategien am Beispiel Bangladeschs, der Bangladesh Accord als weltweit erstes Enforceable Brand Agreement, zudem handels- und zollpolitische Maßnahmen der EU, 2. Transnationale Machtressourcen und Strategien bei IG Metall und ver.di, 3. Der KiK-Prozess von vier Pakistanis vor dem Landgericht Dortmund als Beispiel für strategische Prozessführung und transnationale Kooperation auf Augenhöhe (zudem als Initialzündung für die Lieferkettengesetz-Kampagne), 4. Die zivilgesellschaftliche Kampagne für ein Lieferkettengesetz in Deutschland, samt Analyse der Machtressourcen und Strategien der Akteur*innen. Gefördert wurde die Dissertation durch ein Stipendium der Hans-Böckler-Stiftung.

Background: Every time sustainability has a more important role in the fashion industry and more consumers have higher environmental consciousness and look out for sustainable products in that area and companies that are genuinely sustainable. But the main problem is that lots of companies claim to be sustainable, but they are not and use the tactic of greenwashing, to attract consumers and trick them to purchase their products. Therefore, consumer education and awareness became essential to be able to avoid these misleading tactics implemented by the fast fashion firms. Purpose: This study goal was to investigate the influence of customer knowledge of greenwashing on their purchase decisions and behaviour when it comes to environmentally friendly items, with a particular focus on the fast fashion sector. This research endeavour aims to provide valuable insights into the challenges associated with promoting sustainable consumption and to propose strategies for increasing consumer engagement with genuinely environmentally friendly products through a comprehensive review of literature and empirical research. Method: The investigation follows a deductive approach, and it uses both qualitative and quantitative methods to gather the information to resolve the research question. It uses focus groups as the main source of insights that are complemented by a survey. Conclusion: Increasing the awareness of the consumer was enough to increase their purchase intention but not enough to convince them to make the change. The overall results add information on the findings of the literature review, but it would be interesting to add more information on our results, meaning that future research is needed to get more in-depth with these findings. In other words, have a more specific idea about consumer awareness on greenwashing and purchase intentions to sustainable products.

This study examines the response of Generation Z females in Sweden to fast fashion web advertisements incorporating six linguistic persuasion strategies. The aim is to identify which of these strategies can be effectively employed in this context to persuade the targeted demographic. An online survey consisting of twelve fast fashion web advertisements was distributed over the social media platforms Instagram, Facebook, and LinkedIn. The respondents' objective was to choose a preferred advertisement from two options, one featuring a linguistic strategy of persuasion and another where the linguistic strategy had been changed or removed, while the respondents had to consider questions related to the linguistic strategies’ persuasive aims. The result from 44 target respondents revealed that the strategies of reader pronouns, directives, and the subject position effectively reached their persuasive aims, while the results for boosters, rhetorical questions, and engagement markers were inconclusive. Still, open-ended non-mandatory answers indicated that the three strategies that got inconclusive results also received negative reactions from the demographic and therefore likely failed at their persuasive aims.

Denna studie har som syfte att undersöka hur konsumenter upplever klädföretaget H&M:s hållbarhetsarbete och vilka attityder som konsumenterna har gentemot företaget. Detta för att kunna skapa en ökad förståelse och kunskap kring hur hållbarhetsarbete kan påverka konsumentattityder. Studien har genomförts med hjälp av en enkätundersökning där svenska konsumenter har fått besvara frågor rörande ämnet. Studien presenterar resultatet med hjälp av olika diagram för att ge en visuell bild över detta. Insamlad data har sedan tolkats och använts för att analysera och diskutera i jämförelse med tidigare forskning på området. Det har visat sig att konsumenter har en negativ syn på H&M:s hållbarhetsarbete där flera konsumenter upplever att de inte arbetar tillräckligt med detta. Eftersom H&M är verksamt inom fast fashion branschen är hållbarhetsarbetet något som blir motsägelsefullt och många upplever på grund av detta företagets strategier som greenwashing. Transparens har visat sig vara en nyckel för att kunna öka intresset gällande produkter, då fler konsumenter har en positiv inställning till att handla plagg om de vet dess miljöpåverkan. Gällande konsumenters attityder gentemot verksamheten har det visat sig att många har dåligt samvete när de handlar kläder hos H&M då flera är medvetna om den fast fashion som H&M bedriver. Många har heller inte hållbarhet i åtanke då de handlar på H&M. Detta har visat på att konsumenters attityder inte har en särskilt stor påverkan på det hållbarhetsarbete som H&M gör. This study aims to investigate how consumers experience the clothing company H&M's sustainability work and what attitudes consumers have towards the company. This is to be able to create an increased understanding and knowledge of how sustainability work can affect consumer attitudes. The study has been conducted with the help of a survey where Swedish consumers have answered questions regarding the subject. The study presents the results using various diagrams to give a visual picture of this. The collected data has then been interpreted and used to analyze and discuss in comparison with previous research in the field. It has been shown that consumers have a negative view of H&M's sustainability work, where several consumers feel that they do not work enough with this. Since H&M is active in the fast fashion industry, sustainability work is something that becomes contradictory and many therefore perceive the company's strategies as greenwashing. Transparency has proven to be a key to increasing interest in products, as more consumers have a positive attitude towards buying garments if they know its environmental impact. Regarding consumers' attitudes towards the business, it has been shown that many have a bad conscience when they buy clothes at H&M as many are aware of the fast fashion that H&M conducts. Many also do not have sustainability in mind when they shop at H&M. This has shown that consumer attitudes do not have a particularly large impact on the sustainability work that H&M does.

The textile and fashion industry is the second industry (after aviation) that pollutes the planet the most, and it uses natural and human resources excessively and irresponsibly. Fast fashion harms the environment. Fast fashion stands for low quality, low prices, constantly updated supplies, and high consumption of natural resources and chemicals. Nowadays, however, the evolution in the fashion industry from fast and unsustainable models to sustainability and a circular economy is firmly established. Fashion industry representatives are paying more and more attention to corporate social responsibility, business ethics, the implementation of circular economy principles, and the technological transition from linear production to a circular economy. The aim of this article is to evaluate the attitude of young Lithuanian designers towards the implementation of circular economy principles in the fashion industry. A problematic question is raised: how do young Lithuanian designers perceive sustainable fashion in the context of a circular economy? A qualitative semi-structured interview was used to collect data for the empirical study. The analysis has shown that the transition of the textile and fashion industry to a circular economy is a rather complex process that requires knowledge, significant financial investment in technological change, and greater consumer purchasing power in the production of products based on a circular economy. Moreover, new brands in the fashion industry do not always have enough information to start a business in the fashion industry based on a circular economy. A qualitative study conducted in Lithuania using the interview method showed that young Lithuanian fashion designers are very positive about sustainability solutions in the fashion industry and try to link their developing fashion brand with sustainability, but this is done fragmentarily rather than consistently. Young fashion designers state that they lack the in-depth knowledge and money to develop a brand in a circular economy. In conclusion, young Lithuanian fashion designers strive to create a sustainable fashion brand and link their development activities to a circular economy in a fragmentary way. Even after the research has been conducted, the question of how to get fast fashion manufacturers to produce sustainable fashion in Lithuania remains open.

Konsumtionen av fast fashion-kläder har ökat och bidrar till en negativ påverkan på klimatet. EU-kommissionen har därför lagt fram strategin hållbara och cirkulära textilier som syftar till att göra fast fashion omodernt fram tills 2030. Syftet med uppsatsen är att kartlägga och analysera den svenska marknaden för fast fashion genom Structure-Conduct-Performance-modellen, samt att analysera marknadens framtid med och utan EU:s strategi i åtanke. Uppsatsen tillämpar en kombination av kvantitativ och kvalitativ metod. En viktig aspekt av metoden är att samla in empirisk data genom att utnyttja relevant information, statistik, akademiska rapporter och andra analyser från sekundära källor. Dessa metoder används för att beskriva fast fashion-marknaden och uppnå uppsatsens syfte. Marknadsanalysen utifrån SCP-modellen visar att marknaden har få regleringar som påverkar den direkt. Majoriteten av konsumenterna på marknaden är yngre kvinnor. På marknaden finns företag med både stabila och volatila samt positiva såväl som negativa vinstmarginaler. Samtliga företag strävar efter att effektivisera sitt produktionsled för att kunna anpassa sig till de senaste modetrenderna. Sammantaget kommer implementeringen av EU:s strategi att ha en betydande påverkan på framtiden för fast fashion-marknaden. Det är viktigt att notera att vinstmarginalen är den enda variabeln som inte kommer att förändras oavsett om EU:s strategi implementeras eller inte. Däremot kommer övriga aspekter av marknaden att se annorlunda ut beroende på strategins införande. The consumption of fast fashion-clothing has increased and contributes to a negative impact on the climate. The European Commission has presented the Sustainable and Circular Textiles Strategy, which aims to make fast fashion obsolete by 2030. The purpose of the paper is to map and analyze the Swedish market for fast fashion through the Structure-Conduct-Performance model, and to analyze the future of the market with and without the EU strategy in mind. The paper applies a combination of quantitative and qualitative methodology. An important aspect of the methodology is to collect empirical data by utilizing relevant information, statistics, academic reports and other analysis from secondary sources. These methods are used to describe the fast fashion market and achieve the purpose of the thesis. The market analysis based on the SCP model shows that the market has few regulations that affect it directly. The market includes companies with profit margins that can be both stable and volatile. All companies strive to streamline their production process in order to adapt to the latest fashion trends in time. Overall, the implementation of the EU strategy will have a significant impact on the future of the fast fashion-market. It is important to note that the profit margin is the only variable that will not change whether the EU strategy is implemented or not. However, other aspects of the market will look different depending on the implementation of the strategy.

Fast fashion is an industry that is closely linked to the cause of climate change, and it is the second largest industry to contribute to pollution. In Sweden, one of the largest groups to consume fast fashion is young consumers, i.e., Generation Z. The same generation is also the information generation, meaning that they are the ones to solve the climate crisis. Social practice theory (SPT) is used to understand the reason behind different practices in society. But is lacking in research on fast fashion. This study, therefore, aims to understand the reasons, values, and practices through the lenses of SPT for why young consumers (Generation Z) in Sweden consume fast fashion despite knowing its effects on the environment. To understand the phenomenon, data has been collected on young consumers in Sweden (age 17-21) in two different cities. The analysis and data show that price is a big factor, the availability of secondhand stores also affects the possibility to choose another option. Climate change is something that was less important for most of the respondents and can be understood as a dying trend. It can be understood that Generation Z is not a homogenous group in Sweden. The findings also suggest that the SPT model should ideally be implemented with a study on external factors to describe possible reasons for understanding a practice as well to enable other practices which can be more sustainable

Organizāciju un menedžmenta socioloģija Socioloģija, politoloģija un antropoloģija Sociology of Organisations and Management Sociology, Politics and Anthropology “Ātrā mode Latvijā: lietošanas paradumi un ilgtspējas vērtējums” ir Martas Elīnas Grīnbergas, Rīgas Stradiņa universitātes 3. kursa studentes programmā “Organizāciju un menedžmenta socioloģija”, bakalaura darbs. Darba teorētiskajā daļā apskatīta modes socioloģija, ātrās modes un lēnas modes jēdzieni, kā arī modes patēriņa paradumi. Tika gūtas dažādas atziņas, piemēram, ka mode nav tikai apģērba valkāšanas process, bet sistēma, kas indivīdu gan apvieno ar citiem, gan izceļ un atšķir no pārējiem. Ātro modi var pielīdzināt vienkāršai aiziešanai uz kafejnīcu pēc kūciņas vai kafijas – tās produktu iegāde visticamāk neietekmēs indivīda finansiālo stāvokli, jo ir lēta un viegli pieejama visām sociālajām grupām, turklāt sniegs emocionālo gandarījumu. Darba praktiskajā daļā veiktas 3 intervijas ar latviešu zīmolu autorēm un sabiedrības anketēšana internetā publicētā aptaujā. Intervijās jautājumi uzdoti līdzvērtīgos tēmu blokos, pievēršot uzmanību ražošanas apstākļu nozīmei zīmolos. Tika izdarīti secinājumi par respondentu zināšanām un attieksmi pret ātrās modes industriju, apģērba lietošanas paradumiem, kā arī par apstākļu uzlabošanas iespējām. Darba izstrādes laikā autore secinājusi, ka temats ir labs padziļinātai izpētei, veicot plašāku sabiedrības anketēšanu lielākā izlasē, kā arī būtu ieteicams pētīt lielāku daļu latviešu zīmolu – tādejādi iegūstot reprezentatīvāku skatu šajā jautājumā. Autore uzskata, ka, izmantojot šādus padziļinātus datus, varētu veidot gan dažādas reklāmas kampaņas, gan citus uzskatāmus materiālus temata aktualizēšanai sabiedrībā. “Fast fashion in Latvia: usage habits and sustainability assessment” is bachelor thesis of Marta Elīna Grinberga’s, a student of Riga Stradins University, “Sociology of Organizations and Management” programme. The theoretical part of the work looks at fashion sociology, the concepts of fast fashion and slow fashion, as well as fashion consumption habits. Various lessons have been learned, for example, that fashion is not just a process of wearing clothing, but a system that combines the individual with others and highlights and distinguishes the individual from the others. Fast fashion can be assimilated to a simple departure to a café after a cake or coffee – the purchase of its products is unlikely to affect the individual's financial position because it is cheap and easily accessible to all social groups and will provide emotional satisfaction. In the practical part of the work, 3 interviews have been conducted with Latvian brand authors and the public questionnaire published on the Internet. Various conclusions were drawn on respondents' knowledge and attitudes to the fast-fashion industry, clothing habits, and how to improve conditions. In interviews, questions have been raised in equivalent blocks of topics, focusing on the importance of manufacturing conditions in brands. During the development of the work, the author has concluded that the subject is good for in-depth research, through a wider selection of the public, and it would be advisable to study a larger proportion of Latvian brands, thereby obtaining a more representative view on this issue. The author believes that such in-depth data could lead to a variety of advertising campaigns as well as other materials that can be considered for updating this topic in society.

In recent years, the consumption and production of clothing has increased radically because of Fast fashion. Fast fashion is a business model, which means that clothes are sold at cheap prices and enables and encourages the consumer to buy more clothes. The fast fashion industry offers both physical stores and online stores to constantly offer new garments in the latest trends to the consumers. The fashion industry has a large negative impact on the environment. One of the main purposes of this study is to examine the consumers knowledge and attitudes towards fast fashion and see if these match their behaviour. The study is based on the behavioural theory Value Action Gap where parts of this theory is used to obtain the result. The survey also studies whether there are differences between different genders, age and education regarding this subject. To find a reliable result, a quantitative survey was created in which 107 people participated. The survey was created in Survey & Report and later analysed in SPSS. The diagrams were created in Word. The result shows a certain lack of knowledge among the participants. Knowledge is a fundamental basis for people to make more environmentally friendly decisions. The results also show that consumers believe that the clothing industry contributes with a major threat to the environment, where the majority think that the threat affects them in one way or the other. Despite the consumers attitudes towards fast fashion, their attitudes do not always match their behaviours. The result also indicates that there are differences within the groups of people. There are more women who believe that they are affected by the clothing industry's environmental impact, even though women consume more of the clothes in question. Compared to the lower education group, most of the people with longer education believe that the clothing industry poses a threat to the environment. The results also enlightens that there are more of the older participants who choose clothes with environmental certification, compared to the younger ones. Under de senaste åren har konsumtionen och produktionen av kläder ökat radikalt till följd av Fast fashion. Fast fashion är en affärsmodell som innebär att kläder säljs för billiga priser och gör det möjligt för konsumenten att handla mer kläder. Fast fashion erbjuder fysiska butiker och online-butiker möjligheten att ständigt kunna erbjuda konsumenterna nya plagg efter det senaste trenderna. Klädindustrin har en stor negativ inverkan på miljön. Syftet med denna studie är att undersöka konsumenters kunskaper och attityder till fast fashion samt se om dessa stämmer överens deras beteenden. Studien använder sig av beteendeteorin Value Action Gap där delar av teorin används för att ta fram resultatet. Undersökningen studerar även om det finns skillnader mellan olika kön, ålder och utbildning. Metoden som används är en kvantitativ enkätundersökning där 107 personer deltog. Enkäten skapades i Survey & Report och analyserades sedan i SPSS. Diagrammen gjordes i Word. Resultatet visar att det finns viss brist på kunskap hos deltagarna. Kunskap är en viktig grund för att människan ska vilja agera mer miljövänligt. Studiens resultat visar även att konsumenterna anser att klädindustrin utgör att stort hot mot miljön där den större delen tycker att hotet berör dem. Trots konsumenternas attityd till fast fashion visar det sig att deras attityder inte alltid stämmer överens med deras beteenden. Resultatet indikerar även att det finns skillnader inom de olika grupperna. Det är fler kvinnor som anser att de berörs av klädindustrins miljöpåverkan även om det är fler kvinnor som handlar kläder oftare. För de med längre utbildning anser de flesta att klädindustrin utgör ett hot mot miljön. Jämfört med de lägre utbildningsgrupper. Resultatet visar även att det är fler av de äldre som oftare väljer kläder med miljöcertifiering jämfört med de yngre.

Background & Problem: As society becomes more aware of what climate change is provoking in the environment, urgent action toward a more sustainable way of living is being called for. Businesses need to find ways to become more sustainable. One of the fastest-growing industries in the market is the fashion industry, despite it being part of the second-largest polluting industry. It is up to the business but also the consumers to make drastic changes in order to sustain the planet. There are multiple factors that affect consumers purchasing decisions, such as Price and Environmental Knowledge. The problem found when conducting the literature review was that no previous articles could be found in Sweden regarding consumers’ purchasing decisions when buying clothes within the fast fashion sector regarding sustainability. Purpose: This study aims to understand what substantial factors affect consumers' purchase decisions on clothes. The authors aim to explain existing literature on the chosen topic while providing new insights and data to understand the effect of different variables on consumers’ purchase decisions within Sweden. Method: A quantitative approach was used, where a questionnaire was sent out to consumers in Sweden. The theoretical framework and the two hypotheses were built on previous literature collected through search engines. The data gathered from the questionnaire was analyzed through the statistical data analysis tool IBM SPSS with a regression model and a descriptive model to answer the research question. Conclusion: The results of this study show that individuals in Sweden often prioritize Low Prices over the environmental impact of their choices, as well as showing that having Environmental Knowledge affects consumers purchasing decisions. However, not as much as it was expected. The two hypotheses tested were both accepted. Environmental Knowledge and Low Prices affect consumers’ purchasing decisions when buying fast fashion products in Sweden. The results are coherent with previous literature.

Modeindustrin har en av de främsta och mest skadliga rollerna i den rådande vanvården av planeten, som gör sig ständigt påmind i olika samhälleliga forum. Uppkomsten av så kallad fast fashion har sedan millennieskiftet exempelvis bidragit till den ökande mängden utsläpp och avfall samt den alltmer akuta uttömningen av naturresurser. På grund av detta förespråkas övergången till en cirkulär klädmarknad.I denna uppsats utforskas fem konsumenters inställningar till fast fashion och hållbara alternativ, främst second hand-kläder. Semistrukturerade intervjuer genererar diskussioner om bland annat ansvar, påverkan, status och hygien. Dessa besvarar frågeställningarna om hur konsumenter förhåller sig till modeindustrin, samt vilka faktorer som de upplever styr deras konsumtion. Syftet med detta är att uppmärksamma hur samhällets hållbarhetsdiskurs kan påverka individers syn på sig själva och andra, samt deras möjligheter att konsumera hållbart.Resultaten påvisar en hög konsumentmedvetenhet om förhållandet mellan mode och hållbarhet, samt att respondenterna har ambitioner att konsumera med minimal miljöpåverkan. Strukturella motgångar påverkar dock hur väl de kan uppfylla sina aspirationer, och de upplever sig vilseledda av den greenwashing som genomsyrar klädmarknaden. Konsumenterna ser mode som identitetsbyggande och statusingivande, och den sociala kontexten verkar påverka hur kläder och konsumtionssätt uppfattas. Jämförelser mellan nyproducerade och begagnade kläder utmynnar i resonemang om hygienens symbolik, där betraktelsen av de sistnämnda som smutsiga tolkas som socialt konstruerad. Den huvudsakliga slutsatsen är att hållbar konsumtion möjliggörs av både strukturers och aktörers inverkan. De oskrivna kraven som ställs på konsumenter att handla hållbart kan dock upplevas som omöjliga att uppnå, och därför är omfattande institutionella förändringar nödvändiga för verkställelsen av en cirkulär modeindustri.

The purpose of this study was to better understand how consumers of fast fashion clothing with different shopping motivations consider sustainability during their purchase. The different shopping motivations are hedonic and utilitarian, which are respectively the emotion of shopping and the function of shopping. The main question for this research was “How do consumers of fast fashion clothing with different motivations (hedonic or utilitarian) consider sustainability during their purchase?” This qualitative research made use of 11 focus groups and a total of 44 participants to obtain in-depth data. The participants were divided into whether their main shopping motivation was hedonic, or utilitarian based on how they answered specific questions. The answers from both groups were compared with each other to find possible differences. When weighing the evidence and conclusions from the research, it appears relatively likely that there are no significant differences between consumers with a hedonic main shopping motivation and consumers with a utilitarian main shopping motivation. This leads to the conclusion of the main question, which is that there is no difference in how consumers of fast fashion clothing with different motivations consider sustainability during their purchase.

Ο στόχος της εργασίας μας ήταν η μελέτη της Διεθνούς επιστημονικής αρθρογραφίας γύρω από το Πράσινο Μάρκετινγκ στην Βιομηχανία της Γρήγορης Μόδας . Πραγματοποιήσαμε μια Συστηματική Βιβλιογραφική Ανασκόπηση, προκειμένου να καταδείξουμε τι έχει ερευνηθεί σε ένα χρονικό εύρος από το 2002-2022 με σκοπό να καταδείξουμε τις τάσεις της έρευνας, τα τυχόν κενά και την επιρροή του Βιώσιμου Μάρκετινγκ κυρίως στην πρόθεση αγοράς από την πλευρά του καταναλωτή, σε σχέση με τη βιωσιμότητα στο χώρο της γρήγορης μόδας και εν κατακλείδι το κατά πόσο αυτή διαδραματίζει καίριο ρόλο στην αφοσίωση μιας επωνυμίας. Στη συνέχεια παρουσιάσαμε την μεθοδολογία της έρευνάς μας ερευνώντας την Διεθνή επιστημονική αρθρογραφία και αφού συλλέξαμε τα κατάλληλα άρθρα-μελέτες προχωρήσαμε στην ανάλυση αυτών, αρχικά περιγραφικά, καταδεικνύοντας σημαντικά στατιστικά στοιχεία σε πίνακες και γραφήματα σε σχέση με τα εν λόγω άρθρα και την προέλευσή τους ή τις δημοσιεύσεις τους, ή το έτος συγγραφής του καθενός καταδεικνύοντας την αφετηρία , αλλά και την πορεία της έρευνας με την πάροδο των ετών. Ακολούθως, αναφερθήκαμε αναλυτικά στα ευρήματά μας από τα αποτελέσματα ερευνών σχετικά με την υιοθέτηση πράσινων στρατηγικών ,το προφίλ του πράσινου καταναλωτή, την πρόθεση αγοράς και το branding, την επιρροή της εκπαίδευσης , τους νέους καταναλωτές ( millennials και generation y and z) ,την πράσινη διαφήμιση αλλά και το πράσινο πλύσιμο, διαπιστώνοντας ότι το αν οι επιχειρήσεις που ακολουθούν την βιωσιμότητα καταφέρουν ή όχι να κερδίσουν την αφοσίωση των καταναλωτών εξαρτάται από τη δική τους εικόνα και την ικανότητα δημιουργίας εμπιστοσύνης, καινοτόμων πρωτοβουλιών και ενίσχυσης της παροχής ποιότητας ως αξία, The aim of the present thesis was the study the International scientific literature around Green Marketing in the Fast Fashion Industry. We conducted a Systematic Literature Review to demonstrate what has been researched over a time span from 2002-2022 in order to demonstrate research trends, potential gaps and the influence of Sustainable Marketing mainly on consumer purchase intention, in relation to sustainability in the field of fast fashion and in conclusion whether it plays a key role in the loyalty of a brand. We then presented our research methodology by researching the International scientific articleography and after collecting the appropriate articles-studies we proceeded to analyze them, initially descriptively, demonstrating important statistical data in tables and graphs in relation to the articles in question and their origin or their publications, or the year of each one's writing, showing the starting point, but also the course of the research over the years. Next, we detailed our findings from research results regarding the adoption of green strategies, the profile of the green consumer, purchase intention and branding, the influence of education, young consumers (millennials and generation y and z), green advertising but and greenwashing, finding that whether or not businesses pursuing sustainability succeed in gaining consumer loyalty depends on their own image and ability to build trust, innovate initiatives, and enhance the delivery of quality as value

The aim of this study is to better understand thoughts, emotions and various behaviors related to clothing consumption.

No âmbito da conclusão deste ciclo académico, foi-me dada a oportunidade de realizar um estágio na empresa Multidados, cujo objetivo era realizar um estudo de mercado que fosse relevante para as marcas. Assim, o presente trabalho propõe-se estudar os três temas que englobam a temática vegan/vegetarianismo: cruelty free, moda sustentável e produtos vegan/vegetarianos. Estes temas são relevantes para o mercado e para as empresas, uma vez que os consumidores são cada vez mais conscientes e exigentes. Os consumidores preocupam-se com o meio ambiente, com os produtos que consomem, com a origem desses produtos, com a sua saúde e consequentemente com os animais. Apesar de serem temas diferentes, o fator primordial foi analisar hábitos de consumo e conhecimento sobre cada um dos temas. Embora os inquiridos ainda apresentem alguma falta de conhecimento face aos três temas estudados, também se pode observar que os inquiridos estão abertos a saber mais sobre as questões apresentadas. O objetivo do estudo foi concluído com sucesso, uma vez que, foram obtidas as respostas pretendidas. As part of the conclusion of this academic cycle, I was given the opportunity to undertake an internship at the company Multidados, whose objective was to carry out a market study that was relevant to the brands. Thus, the present work proposes to study the three themes that encompass the vegan/vegetarian theme: cruelty free, sustainable fashion and vegan/vegetarian products. These topics are relevant for the market and for companies, as consumers are increasingly aware and demanding. Consumers are concerned with the environment, with the products they consume, with the origin of these products, with their health and consequently with the animals. Despite being different topics, the main factor was to analyze consumption habits and knowledge about each of the topics. Although respondents still show some lack of knowledge regarding the three topics studied, it can also be observed that respondents are open to knowing more about the issues presented. The objective of the study was successfully completed, since the intended answers were obtained. Mestrado em Marketing

Many consumers are contented with the fast fashion styles, abundant choices, and affordable price. However, other consumers and environmental advocates began to question about this fast fashion system, including the problems of overconsumption and disposable clothing. As a result, many fashion practitioners and scholars have been developing different strategies and methods to minimise the fabric waste, and prolong the product lifespan through innovative design. The objectives of this study are twofold: (1) to explore various techniques for creating transformable clothing and (2) to gain a deeper understanding of how individuals (entrepreneurs, designers, professors, and consumers) respond to their perceptions of transformable clothing, and issues of sustainability in China. This study consists of three stages – design experiments, in-depth interviews, and online surveys. In stage one, various design prototypes were developed, with one of them being selected as the visual stimuli for stages two and three. According to our results, many informants and online participants supported the concept of sustainable fashion as well as the idea of transformable garments. However, many professionals had numerous concerns regarding the production cost, practicality, adaptability, and saleability.

La industria de la moda ha sido declarada la segunda industria más contaminante en nuestro planeta. El modelo de negocio fast fashion ha contribuido en gran medida a ello, ya que ha traído consigo una serie de significativas alteraciones en la dimensión económica, social y medioambiental de nuestra economía. En este contexto de genuino cambio emerge una alternativa a este sistema imperante carente de numerosas investigaciones y estudios al respecto, el slow fashion. Para solventar dicha falta de información, en el presente trabajo se analizan conceptos como la Responsabilidad Social Corporativa (RSC), el consumo responsable, la sostenibilidad; al igual que se ofrece una visión global del panorama actual de la industria de la moda, la transformación que está experimentando y las principales tendencias emergentes, entre las cuales destaca el metaverso como el mayor desafío para el sector. A su vez, se examinan los casos empresariales de dos marcas en particular, cuyo valor diferencial reside en los valores que ambas representan. En último lugar, se lleva a cabo una investigación cuantitativa con el fin de conocer la percepción de la generación Z sobre el fast fashion frente al slow fashion, los cambios producidos en su sistema de valores, así como sus preferencias y hábitos de consumo sostenibles.

El presente trabajo de investigación se ha dedicado a determinar las acciones y alternativas de las firmas multinacionales de moda y ONG´S en la mitigación de los efectos negativos del fenómeno Fast Fashion en la creación de polución. Conjuntamente, identifica dichos efectos producidos desde el fenómeno en el medio ambiente específicamente la polución. El tipo de estudio efectuado en esta investigación es de carácter descriptivo-explicativo, ya que en un principio se busca conocer los aspectos más relevantes del fenómeno a investigar pues, este se presenta como un fenómeno poco conocido, pero de gran impacto. Asimismo, para desarrollar el presente trabajo y teniendo como base el marco teórico conceptual, se realizó un análisis de estudios de caso existentes sobre las firmas multinacionales de moda como el grupo Inditex dado su participación en el alza del fenómeno, esto con el propósito de identificar los efectos negativos del Fast Fashion; a la vez que se determina las acciones y alternativas dadas por las firmas multinacionales como ZARA, Bershka y Pull and Bear y ONG´S como Greenpeace, WWF y ocena, para mitigar los efectos de dicho fenómeno. Finalmente se presentan dichas acciones y alternativas que, desde su influencia como actores de las relaciones internacionales, las firmas multinacionales de moda y las ONG´S enfocadas en la preservación del medio ambiente, ejecutan con tal de mitigar los impactos negativos de dicho fenómeno, así como su propuesta integral enfocada en la moda sostenible. This research work has been devoted to determine the actions and alternatives of multinational fashion firms and NGOs in mitigating the adverse effects of the Fast Fashion phenomenon in creating pollution. It also identifies the effects of the phenomenon on the environment, specifically pollution. The type of study carried out in this research is of a descriptive explanatory nature, as it initially seeks to know the most relevant aspects of the phenomenon to be investigated, as it is a little known phenomenon, but with a great impact. Likewise, in order to develop the present work and taking the conceptual theoretical framework as a basis, an analysis of existing case studies on multinational fashion firms such as the Inditex group was carried out, given its participation in the rise of the phenomenon, with the purpose of identifying the adverse effects of Fast Fashion; at the same time, the actions and alternatives given by multinational firms and NGOs to mitigate the effects of this phenomenon are determined. Finally, the actions and alternatives that, from their influence as actors in international relations, multinational fashion firms and NGOs focused on the preservation of the environment, execute in order to mitigate the negative impacts of this phenomenon, as well as their integral proposal focused on sustainable fashion, are presented. Profesional en Negocios Internacionales Pregrado

Fast fashion continuously promotes the mass consumption of clothes and, because of a non-linear economy, the disposal of textile waste. The generation of textile waste is expected to increase further and has already been shown to significantly contribute to the release of fibrous microplastics (FMPs) into the environment. FMPs are the primary microplastic (MP) in the air, and FMP (and MP) contamination is a global concern to address to prevent negative impacts on human health and the environment. The collection of textile waste microfibers during the textile manufacturing processes, i.e., finishing of fabrics, and valorization in construction materials such as fiber-reinforced cementitious composites (FRCs), is here proposed to limit FMPs spread. A thorough characterization of the textile waste microfibers allowed the description of their size, composition, and the main features required for their use in FRCs (density, water absorption, water release in time). Microfiber contents 0-4 wt% and three different microfiber conditions were considered in Portland cement: water-saturated, NaOH-treated, and untreated. The increase in microfiber content significantly promoted the physical-mechanical properties and insulating power of unreinforced Portland cement. And water saturation and NaOH treatment were more successful in reducing linear shrinkage and increasing toughness. For the first time, this work showed a practical mitigation approach of FMPs through the valorization of textile waste to manufacture sustainable and efficient FRCs. Notably, the results displayed that the same amount of FMP fallout in Paris daily can be mitigated per ton of cement paste to create valuable and promising construction materials. Also see: https://micro2022.sciencesconf.org/427109/document, In MICRO 2022, Online Atlas Edition: Plastic Pollution from MACRO to nano

As alterações ambientais e a sustentabilidade têm sido temas cada vez mais presentes na sociedade. A população começou a ganhar interesse por estas questões, que fizeram com que muitas indústrias se adaptassem não só na produção dos produtos como no consumo. Mas se falarmos das alterações, temos também de considerar a preocupação social: as condições dos trabalhadores e a ética das empresas. Esta dissertação pretende, numa visão teórica e empírica, analisar a indústria da moda, tendo em conta o movimento Slow Fashion, da ótica dos compradores e responsáveis de marcas. Para isso foi adotada uma metodologia qualitativa, através de entrevistas semiestruturadas a sete pessoas, com idades entre os 19 e os 45 anos. Os resultados indicam que conheceram o Slow Fashion por iniciativa própria, maioritariamente, pelas plataformas digitais. Ferramentas que são bastante utilizadas no quotidiano para procurar novas marcas e produtos, de acordo com as características pretendidas. Quanto às marcas, sabem que as plataformas digitais são os meios preferenciais dos utilizadores e tendem a investir cada vez mais na sua utilização. Procuram transmitir os valores da empresa e explicar o processo de produção de forma consistente. A adoção de práticas de Slow Fashion favorece as empresas e atrai novos clientes. Para os compradores, essas ações consistem numa conduta responsável que ajuda a combater os problemas ambientais criados pela indústria têxtil. Environmental changes and sustainability have been increasingly present themes in society. The population began to gain interest in these issues, which made many industries adapt not only in the Production of products but also in Consumption. But if we talk about changes, we also have to consider social concerns: the conditions of workers and the ethics of companies. This dissertation intends, in a theoretical and empirical view, to analyze the Fashion industry, taking into account the Slow Fashion Movement, from the perspective of buyers and brand managers. For this, a qualitative methodology was adopted, through semi-structured interviews with seven people, aged between 19 and 45 years. The results indicate that they got to know Slow Fashion on their own initiative, mostly through digital platforms. Tools that are widely used in everyday life to search for new brands and products, according to the intended characteristics. As for brands, they know that digital platforms are the preferred means of users and tend to invest more and more in their use. They seek to convey the company's values and explain the Production process consistently. The adoption of Slow Fashion practices favors companies and attracts new customers. For buyers, these actions represent responsible conduct that helps combat the environmental problems created by the textile industry.