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Coastal erosion and the need for flood protection present globally significant challenges. To address these challenges, hard coastal protection structures, such as groynes, are employed worldwide to safeguard coastal areas and regulate currents. However, their specific effects on current dynamics and sediment properties, particularly within tidal inlets, remain inadequately investigated, especially in regions like the North Sea characterized by prevalent tidal currents. This study aims to address the knowledge gap by examining the long-term impacts of coastal protection measures on sedimentology, with a focus on the environment of a tidal inlet. The Southern North Sea coast is subject to mesotidal conditions. It presents a mixed-energy coast with an erosive eastward littoral drift, providing an ideal setting for this investigation. On the island of Wangerooge, a prominent groyne extends into the Harle inlet, significantly restricting the exchange area between the North Sea and the Wadden Sea. Consequently, the changes in flow dynamics and sediment transport resulting from the construction significantly affect sediment distribution and morphology within the inlet. Sedimentological analysis was employed to characterize surface sediment properties and statistical analysis identified seven distinct facies associated with three realms, which were shaped by the tidal currents affected by the groyne to a distinct pattern. Additionally, the integration of multibeam data from existing literature facilitated the creation of a comprehensive facies map. These findings suggest alterations in the morphology of the inlet. By comparing the results with an unaffected inlet, the Otzumer Balje, this study provides valuable insights into the complex interplay between coastal protection infrastructure and coastal sedimentology within a high-dynamic tidal inlet system. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study aims to assess shoreline change rates at al-Gamil Beach, west of Port Said City on the northeastern Mediterranean coast of Egypt. The study area is characterized by two main tidal inlets connected Lake EL-Manzala by the sea and other coastal protection structures. Given that the al-Gamil coastline shall be monitored to explore erosion and sedimentation changes along the shoreline, multi-temporal satellite images and an ArcGIS-based DSAS model application were utilized to identify and measure changes to the coastline. Five Landsat images covering the study area were used to identify patterns of coastline accretion and erosion. These images were corrected geometrically and radiometrically to help the investigation process of coastline change rates. The three DSAS statistical models: Linear Regression Rate, End Point Rate, and Net Shoreline Movement were used to assess the shoreline change rate. Based on these findings, the shoreline has alternate exposure to accretion and erosion at varying rates, where the average rate of accretion is nearly +9 m/year, while the maximum rate of erosion is about −27 m/year.

The poor stability of the shoal - channel outside the Lingshui Xincun lagoon estuary in Hainan restricts the regulation, development and utilization of the lagoon. In order to study the evolution characteristics of the shoal-channel outside of the lagoon estuary, combined with the topography and geomorphology, coastal dynamics and sediment transportation of the lagoon, compared the remote sensing image data of the lagoon in the past 30 years, the silting changes of the coastline, shoals and deep channel outside the lagoon estuary were analyzed. The study shows that the main axis of the deep channel of the tida linlet outside the lagoon estuary is unstable, and there are also strong erosion and sedimentation changes in the surrounding shoals. The shoal-channel landform has been in the mutual evolution of single channel and double channel, a relatively complete evolution period takes about 10 to 20 years. The coastal sand transport from east to west under the action of wave and flow, and the impact of extreme events such as typhoons are important reasons for the changes of shoal-channel. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the development and utilization of shoreline resources, pedestrian trestle platforms have become a beautiful landscape in hydrophilic cities. The characteristics of wave currents in tidal inlets are complex, especially those in central urban district. Due to the comprehensive constraints of work space and duration, the construction difficulty has been enhanced. Taking the phase II of the Haikou Bay Smooth Traffic Project as an example, a scheme design was carried out in order to facilitate construction. By building a unidirectional coupling model of hydrodynamic force and structural force, the design scheme was optimized on the basis of comprehensive analysis of dynamic conditions and structural force in the engineering area, and the key points of designing pedestrian trestle platform in tidal inlet were summarized. After research, it is found that the dynamic conditions in the tidal inlet where this project is located have little influence on the structure under the action of constant waves, and the design structure is stable. However, under extreme weather conditions, due to the effect of wind and waves and water increase, the water depth under the platform in the inlet is shallow, and there is a risk of sudden silting of sediment after the sediment is over hanged. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the monitoring of the bottom bed of the inlet in areas with large flow velocities such as the north bank of the open section and the narrow section before and after typhoons. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study aims to assess shoreline change rates at al-Gamil Beach, west of Port Said City on the northeastern Mediterranean coast of Egypt. The study area is characterized by two main tidal inlets connected Lake EL-Manzala by the sea and other coastal protection structures. Given that the al-Gamil coastline shall be monitored to explore erosion and sedimentation changes along the shoreline, multi-temporal satellite images and an ArcGIS-based DSAS model application were utilized to identify and measure changes to the coastline. Five Landsat images covering the study area were used to identify patterns of coastline accretion and erosion. These images were corrected geometrically and radiometrically to help the investigation process of coastline change rates. The three DSAS statistical models: Linear Regression Rate, End Point Rate, and Net Shoreline Movement were used to assess the shoreline change rate. Based on these findings, the shoreline has alternate exposure to accretion and erosion at varying rates, where the average rate of accretion is nearly +9 m/year, while the maximum rate of erosion is about −27 m/year. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion and the need for flood protection present globally significant challenges. To address these challenges, hard coastal protection structures, such as groynes, are employed worldwide to safeguard coastal areas and regulate currents. However, their specific effects on current dynamics and sediment properties, particularly within tidal inlets, remain inadequately investigated, especially in regions like the North Sea characterized by prevalent tidal currents. This study aims to address the knowledge gap by examining the long-term impacts of coastal protection measures on sedimentology, with a focus on the environment of a tidal inlet. The Southern North Sea coast is subject to mesotidal conditions. It presents a mixed-energy coast with an erosive eastward littoral drift, providing an ideal setting for this investigation. On the island of Wangerooge, a prominent groyne extends into the Harle inlet, significantly restricting the exchange area between the North Sea and the Wadden Sea. Consequently, the changes in flow dynamics and sediment transport resulting from the construction significantly affect sediment distribution and morphology within the inlet. Sedimentological analysis was employed to characterize surface sediment properties and statistical analysis identified seven distinct facies associated with three realms, which were shaped by the tidal currents affected by the groyne to a distinct pattern. Additionally, the integration of multibeam data from existing literature facilitated the creation of a comprehensive facies map. These findings suggest alterations in the morphology of the inlet. By comparing the results with an unaffected inlet, the Otzumer Balje, this study provides valuable insights into the complex interplay between coastal protection infrastructure and coastal sedimentology within a high-dynamic tidal inlet system.

An observation system integrating satellite images, in situ water parameters and hydrodynamic measurements was implemented in a tidal inlet of the Venice Lagoon (Northern Adriatic Sea, Italy). The experimental infrastructure was developed to autonomously investigate suspended sediment dynamics in the two channels of the Lido inlet in relation to the longshore currents in the littoral zone and the tidal circulation along the lagoon channel network. It provided time series of turbidity at the surface, water flow and acoustic backscatter, which was converted into turbidity along the vertical column during different tidal phases and meteo-marine conditions. Accurate turbidity maps were derived from Sentinel-2 (Copernicus) and Landsat 8 (NASA) satellites. Long-term in situ data from field surveys enabled the calibration and intercalibration of the instrumental setup and validation of satellite-derived products. Time series from the instrumental network were analyzed in order to evaluate the temporal variability of suspended sediment in relation to tidal phases and the different meteo-marine conditions. The integration of available datasets with satellite images also permitted the testing of the methodology for a 3-D reconstruction of the suspended sediment pattern in calm sea conditions, under the effect of the sole hydrodynamical forcing. Remotely sensed data provide a synoptic distribution of turbidity in the inlet area allowing the analysis of the surficial patterns of suspended sediment and the inferring of information on the transport processes at different spatial scales. In calm sea conditions, the results show that the transport is driven by tidal currents with a net seaward transport related to a larger export of materials from the northern basin of the Lagoon of Venice. During typical northeasterly storms, materials mobilized on the beaches and in the shoreface are transported into the inlet and distributed into the lagoon channel network, following the flood tidal currents and determining net import of materials. The multitude of information provided by this system can support research on aquatic science (i.e., numerical simulations) and address end-user community practices. The ecosystem management will also benefit operational purposes, such as the monitoring of morphological transformations, erosion processes and planning of coastal defense in the future scenarios of sea level rise. The developed approach will also help to understand how the regulation of the inlet flow introduced by the operation of the flood barriers will affect the fluxes of particles and, in the long term, the lagoon morphodynamics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Increasing societal pressures (e.g., population growth and urbanization) are driving land use change practices in coastal areas that could potentially alter the hydrodynamics and sediment transport patterns near coastal inlets in ways that might exacerbate existing shoaling conditions. To investigate the potential impact of coastal development, a numerical model is used to predict the long-term evolution of an idealized lagoonal-type barrier island inlet under five different morphological conditions that transitioned from net sediment import to net sediment export. The simulations were designed to address the potential effect of inter-tidal placement and land reclamation on sediment transport and the resulting deposition/erosion patterns. Estuaries that were deeper and devoid of extensive tidal flats tended to promote sediment import and had a greater propensity to exacerbate channel shoaling. Simulations that were characteristic of inter-tidal placement showed net export, yet the likelihood of channel shoaling was increased because some of the material eroded from the tidal flats was deposited in the deeper channels as opposed to being carried out the inlet throat. Alternatively, it was found that regions in which the intertidal area was restricted to elevations higher in the tidal frame, which also showed a net export, produced greater sediment loss in the inter-tidal zone that tended to bypass the deeper sections, reducing the likelihood of channel shoaling. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The many thousands of small tidal inlets (STIs), and their adjacent coastlines, are almost certain to be affected by climate change in multiple ways, due to their behaviour being closely linked to both oceanic and terrestrial drivers such as riverflow, sea level, and ocean waves, all which are projected to change over the 21st century. Development of risk informed adaptation strategies for these highly utilized and inhabited inlet-interrupted coast zones requires projections of both alongshore average coastline recession and alongshore variability in coastline position along the coast under future forcing conditions, the latter being an aspect that has not received much attention to date. Here, a combination of a process-based morphodynamic model (Delft3D) and the reduced complexity coastline model (SMIC), concurrently forced with tides, waves, riverflows, and sea level rise, is used to investigate both of these phenomena at STI-interrupted coasts. The models are here applied to schematised conditions representing two systems in Sri Lanka, representing two of the three main Types of STIs: Negombo lagoon – permanently open, locationally stable inlet (Type 1), and Kalutara lagoon – permanently open, alongshore migrating inlet (Type 2). Results indicate that, under a high emissions climate scenario following RCP 8.5, by end-century, the coastline adjacent to the Type 1 STI may experience an alongshore average recession as large as 200 m, and that the alongshore variability in coastline position may be up to twice that at present. The Type 2 STI is projected to experience an alongshore average coastline recession of about 120 m, and up to a 75% increase in alongshore variability in coastline position by end-century, relative to the present. Thus, both the alongshore average coastline recession and the increase in the alongshore variability in coastline position are greater at the Type 1 STI, compared to at the Type 2 STI. These findings highlight the importance of accounting for both alongshore average coastline recession and future changes in alongshore variability in coastline position when assessing coastal hazards and risk on inlet-interrupted coasts to adequately inform climate adaptation strategies.

An observation system integrating satellite images, in situ water parameters and hydrodynamic measurements was implemented in a tidal inlet of the Venice Lagoon (Northern Adriatic Sea, Italy). The experimental infrastructure was developed to autonomously investigate suspended sediment dynamics in the two channels of the Lido inlet in relation to the longshore currents in the littoral zone and the tidal circulation along the lagoon channel network. It provided time series of turbidity at the surface, water flow and acoustic backscatter, which was converted into turbidity along the vertical column during different tidal phases and meteo-marine conditions. Accurate turbidity maps were derived from Sentinel-2 (Copernicus) and Landsat 8 (NASA) satellites. Long-term in situ data from field surveys enabled the calibration and intercalibration of the instrumental setup and validation of satellite-derived products. Time series from the instrumental network were analyzed in order to evaluate the temporal variability of suspended sediment in relation to tidal phases and the different meteo-marine conditions. The integration of available datasets with satellite images also permitted the testing of the methodology for a 3-D reconstruction of the suspended sediment pattern in calm sea conditions, under the effect of the sole hydrodynamical forcing. Remotely sensed data provide a synoptic distribution of turbidity in the inlet area allowing the analysis of the surficial patterns of suspended sediment and the inferring of information on the transport processes at different spatial scales. In calm sea conditions, the results show that the transport is driven by tidal currents with a net seaward transport related to a larger export of materials from the northern basin of the Lagoon of Venice. During typical northeasterly storms, materials mobilized on the beaches and in the shoreface are transported into the inlet and distributed into the lagoon channel network, following the flood tidal currents and determining net import of materials. The multitude of information provided by this system can support research on aquatic science (i.e., numerical simulations) and address end-user community practices. The ecosystem management will also benefit operational purposes, such as the monitoring of morphological transformations, erosion processes and planning of coastal defense in the future scenarios of sea level rise. The developed approach will also help to understand how the regulation of the inlet flow introduced by the operation of the flood barriers will affect the fluxes of particles and, in the long term, the lagoon morphodynamics.

Increasing societal pressures (e.g., population growth and urbanization) are driving land use change practices in coastal areas that could potentially alter the hydrodynamics and sediment transport patterns near coastal inlets in ways that might exacerbate existing shoaling conditions. To investigate the potential impact of coastal development, a numerical model is used to predict the long-term evolution of an idealized lagoonal-type barrier island inlet under five different morphological conditions that transitioned from net sediment import to net sediment export. The simulations were designed to address the potential effect of inter-tidal placement and land reclamation on sediment transport and the resulting deposition/erosion patterns. Estuaries that were deeper and devoid of extensive tidal flats tended to promote sediment import and had a greater propensity to exacerbate channel shoaling. Simulations that were characteristic of inter-tidal placement showed net export, yet the likelihood of channel shoaling was increased because some of the material eroded from the tidal flats was deposited in the deeper channels as opposed to being carried out the inlet throat. Alternatively, it was found that regions in which the intertidal area was restricted to elevations higher in the tidal frame, which also showed a net export, produced greater sediment loss in the inter-tidal zone that tended to bypass the deeper sections, reducing the likelihood of channel shoaling.

Approximately one-quarter of the World’s sandy beaches, most of which are interrupted by tidal inlets, are eroding. Understanding the long-term (50–100 year) evolution of inlet-interrupted coasts in a changing climate is, therefore of great importance for coastal zone planners and managers. This study, therefore, focuses on the development and piloting of an innovative model that can simulate the climate-change driven evolution of inlet-interrupted coasts at 50–100 year time scales, while taking into account the contributions from catchment-estuary-coastal systems in a holistic manner. In this new model, the evolution of inlet-interrupted coasts is determined by: (1) computing the variation of total sediment volume exchange between the inlet-estuary system and its adjacent coast, and (2) distributing the computed sediment volume along the inlet-interrupted coast as a spatially and temporally varying quantity. The exchange volume, as computed here, consists of three major components: variation in fluvial sediment supply, basin (or estuarine) infilling due to the sea-level rise-induced increase in accommodation space, and estuarine sediment volume change due to variations in river discharge. To pilot the model, it is here applied to three different catchment-estuary-coastal systems: the Alsea estuary (Oregon, United States), Dyfi estuary (Wales, United Kigdom), and Kalutara inlet (Sri Lanka). Results indicate that all three systems will experience sediment deficits by 2100 (i.e., sediment importing estuaries). However, processes and system characteristics governing the total sediment exchange volume, and thus coastline change, vary markedly among the systems due to differences in geomorphic settings and projected climatic conditions. These results underline the importance of accounting for the different governing processes when assessing the future evolution of inlet-interrupted coastlines.

Saw-tooth bars are shore-oblique sand bars that are found along most ebb-tidal deltas of the Frisian Wadden Islands. Although they might significantly affect sediment transport pathways and volumes on the deltas, their general characteristics and dynamics are largely unknown. The main aim of this paper is to determine the typical saw-tooth bar heights, wave lengths, widths, orientations, migration rates and depths of occurrence. To this end, we analysed bathymetries from the Dutch and German Frisian Wadden Islands between 1970 and 2015. Bar heights range between 0.5 and 2 m, and wave lengths range between 300 and 900 m, with an average of 670 m, and the bar crests have a down contour orientation of approximately 25°. The bars are between 800 and 2200 m wide. Saw-tooth bars are located at depths from 3 to 12 m, depending on the slope of the area. Migration speeds of up to 112 m/year were found, using a spatial correlation method. Bar height and migration speed are positively linearly correlated, as well as bar wave length and bar width, bar height and the orientation of the depth contours and migration speed and the orientation of the area. The derived characteristics are compared to those of other bar types to evaluate hypotheses regarding the formation mechanism of the bars. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, we present the results of numerical simulations matched to laboratory experiments of tidal, starting-jet vortices forming at idealized, barotropic inlets. The laboratory experiments are for sinusoidally varying inflow/outflow along a wide, flat basin. Inlet configurations include simple inlets with negligible channel length as well as a longer inlet channels through a long barrier island and jettied inlet. Laboratory observations are made using particle image velocimetry, and we analyze the laboratory and numerical model velocity fields to compare starting-jet trajectory, diameter, and total circulation. The numerical simulations use the Fine Resolution Environmental Hydrodynamic model, solving the three-dimensional, hydrostatic, barotropic equations of motion. Our goal is to identify the minimum model attributes necessary to match the vortex properties. This is accomplished using a third-order upwind scheme for advection, a constant bottom friction drag coefficient, and a one-equation turbulence model for transport of turbulent kinetic energy. The optimal value of the bottom drag coefficient matches the time-average value at the basin inflow/outflow boundaries, and the optimal dissipation coefficient, C me , was an order of magnitude smaller than literature values for a steady open-channel flow. We show that the drag coefficient mainly affects the advection speeds of the outer coastal waters, which control the penetration of the tidal vortices away from the inlet, and the lower turbulence dissipation rate results from the low turbulent dissipation in the large, shallow starting-jet vortices. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In coastal areas, sea level rise (SLR) and changing wave climates are expected to be the main oceanic drivers of shoreline adjustments. These drivers have been shown to vary on a wide spectrum of spatial and temporal scales. Nonetheless, a general rule about how this variability impacts global shorelines remains to be articulated. Here, we discuss the impacts of wave climate changes and SLR on the evolution of a barrier spit–inlet system over the last 250 years. The distal end of the Cap Ferret barrier spit, SW France, has undergone large‐scale oscillations that were well correlated with variations of the decadal average of the winter North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) index. The local wave climate hindcast supports that increased alongshore wave energy fluxes associated with the positive phase of the NAO were responsible for the updrift retreat of the spit. By opposition, the spit has elongated downdrift when waves were less energetic and more shore normal, as during the negative phase of the NAO. In addition, lower rates of SLR appeared to be necessary for the spit to develop, as higher rates of SLR very likely forced the adjacent inlet to enlarge, at the expense of the spit. These results should help to predict and detect coastal adjustments driven by climate change and by climate variability. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The temporal and spatial scales controlling the morphodynamics of barrier-inlet systems are critical components of regional sediment management practice. This paper discusses regional sediment management methods employed at multiple barrier-inlet systems, with case studies from West-Central Florida. A decision-support tool is proposed for regional sediment management with discussion of its application to barrier-inlet systems. Connecting multiple barrier islands and inlets at appropriate spatio-temporal scales is critical in developing an appropriately scoped sediment management plan for a barrier-inlet system. Evaluating sediment bypassing capacity and overall inlet morphodynamics can better inform regional sand sharing along barrier-inlet coastlines; particularly where sediment resources are scarce and a close coupling between inlet dredging and beach placement is vital to long-term sustainable management. Continued sea-level rise and anthropogenic activities may intensify the need for investigating longer-term processes and expanding regional planning at a centennial timescale, and are acknowledged as challenging tasks for RSM studies. Specifically, we suggested that a regionally focused, multi-inlet study were necessary for management plan of individual inlet for the west-central Florida case studies. Key recommendations based on the case studies include: 1) allow the natural sediment bypassing to be re-established at Blind Pass inlet through reduced ebb-tidal delta mining, 2) reduce the interruption to sediment bypassing at John's Pass and Pass-a-Grille inlets through an improved design of the dredged mining areas located along sediment bypassing pathways, 3) allow for continued natural sediment bypassing at Bunces Pass, and, 4) incorporate the cyclic swash-bar attachment sediment bypassing into the management plan at Bunces Pass and adjacent barrier-islands. • This paper discusses regional sediment management methods employed at multiple barrier-inlet systems. • A decision support tool is proposed for regional sediment management with application in barrier-inlet systems. • Evaluating sediment bypassing capacity with inlet morphodynamics can better inform regional sand sharing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Alterations to the tidal inlets shoals, whether natural or anthropogenic, can dramatically influence the hydro-morphological balance of the inlet system in the short and long-term. Jettied inlets, despite typically supported by former technical design reports in curtailing the sedimentology stock, sometimes they require amendments. This paper provides an expository epitome for understanding the role of jetties in concerning the extent of their adequacy to economically and ecologically rationalize the internal siltation within both the western and the eastern tidal inlets of the Bardawil Lagoon, which is situated along the Mediterranean coastline of the Sinai Peninsula, Egypt. The main tool to characterize that role is the hydro-morphological modeling of the inlets system. We used a two-dimensional hydrodynamic circulation model consisting of two steering modules, CMS-Flow and CMS-Wave. In a five-year simulation process, this study emphasized that the sole use of jetties was noticeably insufficient to fulfill the satisfactory stabilization of the sedimentation processes inside the inlets. Consequently, the lake's ecosystem might entirely collapse in the short run due to the progressive deposits fashioning in the form of ebb/flood-tidal deltas. Accordingly, we proposed alternative solutions based on structural modulation scenarios in the vicinity of inlets domain encompassing jetties extension, flow-diverted wall (FDW), sediment trap (ST), random radial channels (RC) and lateral wide channel (LWC). Based upon the results of an optimization model using the Mamdani-type fuzzy inference system, the addition of a lined LWC alongside with jetties proved to be an effective solution over a longer period that rather meets the needs of the majority of stakeholders satisfactorily. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Quarter-diurnal tidal constituents are linked to tidal asymmetries and play a role in the morphodynamic evolution of inlets, estuaries and lagoons. A two-year non-continuous dataset of current velocities and waves was used to improve understanding on the generation of quarter-diurnal harmonics. Data analysis provides evidence for the generation of quarter-diurnal harmonics by wind-induced waves. Data were collected at the entrance to the Arcachon Lagoon, a mixed-energy tidal inlet in Southwest France. Temporal variability of the quarter-diurnal tidal current was identified through wavelet analysis of the main velocity component (alongshore velocity). Quarter-diurnal velocity amplitudes, bottom and wave stresses, and significant wave height suggested a linkage between quarter-diurnal amplification and wave action. Both significant wave height and wave stress were coherent with quarter-diurnal current amplitudes at synoptic frequencies, most markedly in winter months of both years observed. These coherences corroborated the hypothesis that wind-induced waves enhance bottom stresses that can generate and augment quarter-diurnal currents in this region. Highlights • Current velocities and waves recorded in a mixed-energy tidal inlet are analyzed. • Occurrence of quarter-diurnal overtide current amplitudes higher than semidiurnal ones. • Mechanisms outside tidal forces contribute to overtide generation in this region. • A linkage between quarter-diurnal currents and wave action is suggested. • Quarter-diurnal D 4 can be generated by wind-induced waves at synoptic periodicity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A network of cross-shelf paleovalleys has been recognized over the paleo-inner shelf off the Gilão-Almargem Estuary, a small fluvial drainage system that presently receives minor sediment supply in the eastern Algarve shelf, northern margin of the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Iberian Peninsula). This study is aimed at determining the driving controls that triggered substantially different paleohydrological conditions and sedimentary dynamics of ancient fluvial systems in this margin. We focus on evidences of secondary controls on valley genesis and evolution, superimposed to primary glacio-eustatic control such as antecedent geology, low fluvial supply and changing hydrodynamic regimes. The architecture and spatial distribution of these paleovalleys were interpreted based on a grid of seismic profiles with different resolutions. Likewise, a sediment core obtained in a distal position of the paleovalley system provided information about sedimentary processes during the most recent stage of valley infilling. The chronostratigraphic framework was constructed based on regional seismic horizons defined in previous studies and complemented with two AMS 14C dates obtained from bivalve shells. The inner shelf paleovalley system is composed of several incised valley features which exhibit a remarkable similar internal architecture. These inner valley features exhibit two major incision phases (from oldest to youngest; IP 2 and IP 1) that are thought to constitute a simple paleovalley system formed during the last glacial cycle. The origins of the incision are considered to be different. The older one is related to fluvial incision during the sea-level fall leading into the Last Glacial Maximum, whereas the recent one is interpreted as the result of tidal scour during the postglacial transgression. Their corresponding infillings are interpreted, respectively, as estuarine bay-fill deposits and estuary-mouth sands. Overlying the paleovalley infilling, a distinctive reflective unit is in agreement with the generation of coastal barriers and related depositional systems. The formation of the paleo-inner-shelf paleovalley system was strongly conditioned by antecedent geology, which strongly limited the generation of wide incised valleys and determined the amount of incision landward of a well-defined break of slope. Its postglacial infilling was mainly estuarine in nature, likely involving the development of a dendritic system, with numerous barriers interrupted by tidal inlets and channels in a mixed estuarine system with low fluvial supply. • Inner-shelf valleys interpreted as a simple system formed during the last glacial cycle. • The valleys infilling records the occurrence of wave- and tide-dominated processes. • Incised valley formation was strongly determined by antecedent geology. • The infilling took place under high rates of sea-level rise and low fluvial supply. • The system comprised an estuarine system with multiple barriers and inlets. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Inlet-driven processes are capable of modifying the adjacent shoreline. However, few studies have attempted to understand how these changes affect coastal dunes. The present study aims to understand how shoreline changes induced by shoal attachment affect coastal dunes. A barrier island in the Netherlands is used as a case study. Both bathymetric and topographic annual data were analysed, together with the application of a cellular automata model for dune development. The objective of the model is to explore idealised scenarios of inlet-driven shoreline movements. With the model, ten different scenarios were examined regarding beach width increase and rate of alongshore spreading of the shoal. Field data showed that, for the case study, dune volume and shoal attachments could not be directly linked. Instead, rates of dune volume change differed significantly only due to long-term ebb-tidal delta evolution. Such morphological evolution oriented the beach towards the main wind direction, increasing overall aeolian transport potential. Modelling results showed that shoals significantly increased dune volumes only on three out of ten scenarios. This suggests that beach width increase, and rate of alongshore sediment spreading, determine whether the shoal will influence dune growth. Therefore, within the studied time-scale, local rates of dune growth are only increased if shoals are capable of increasing the beach width significantly and persistently.

Scientific exploration of seabed substrata has significantly progressed in the last few years. Hydroacoustic methods of seafloor investigation, including multibeam echosounder measurements, allow us to map large areas of the seabed with unprecedented precision. Through time-series of hydroacoustic measurements, it was possible to determine areas with distinct characteristics in the inlets of the Lagoon of Venice, Italy. Their temporal variability was investigated. Monitoring the changes was particularly relevant, considering the presence at the channel inlets of mobile barriers of the Experimental Electromechanical Module (MoSE) project installed to protect the historical city of Venice from flooding. The detection of temporal and spatial changes was performed by comparing seafloor maps created using object-based image analysis and supervised classifiers. The analysis included extraction of 25 multibeam echosounder bathymetry and backscatter features. Their importance was estimated using an objective approach with two feature selection methods. Moreover, the study investigated how the accuracy of classification could be affected by the scale of object-based segmentation. The application of the classification method at the proper scale allowed us to observe habitat changes in the tidal inlet of the Venice Lagoon, showing that the sediment substrates located in the Chioggia inlet were subjected to very dynamic changes. In general, during the study period, the area was enriched in mixed and muddy sediments and was depleted in sandy deposits. This study presents a unique methodological approach to predictive seabed sediment composition mapping and change detection in a very shallow marine environment. A consistent, repeatable, logical site-specific workflow was designed, whose main assumptions could be applied to other seabed mapping case studies in both shallow and deep marine environments, all over the world.

ABSTRACT Dastgheib, A.; Wulandari, A.S.R., and Ranasinghe R., 2018. Investigationg Stability of Double-Inlet Tidal System Using a Process-Based Modelling Approach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 161–165. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Tidal inlet systems provide a dynamic connection between the ocean and water mass behind their barriers and are subjected to human intervention and natural changes. An understanding of the dynamic processes in tidal inlet systems is important for decision makers managing these areas. Most previous studies are focused on a basin connected to the ocean via a single inlet. But multi-inlet systems have more complexity than the typical single-inlet system, especially considering the interaction among different inlets. In this study, following the realistic analogue approach, we have adopted a morphodynamic process-based model (Delft3D) as a numerical lab and set up a model for a schematized double-inlet tidal system to investigate the stability of such systems. We have carried out a series of simulations and systematically changed the width and initial depth of the inlets and also the amount of sediment coming to the inlet due to littoral drift along the coast. Based on the result of these simulations, first, we developed “Escoffier” type stability curves for each inlet in every simulation. In the second step, we have fixed the cross-sectional area of one inlet and allowed the second inlet to evolve. We used the results of this set of the simulations to develop a 3D stability “Escoffier” curve as a function of the cross-sectional areas of both inlets and equilibrium velocity and identified stable and unstable equilibrium conditions. In the third step, to test these equilibrium points, we altered the stable system in seven different ways to show that the system goes back to one of these equilibrium conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The authors have shown previously that over very long time scales a barrier estuary or tidal inlet will tend towards one of two states, called attractors. In this paper it is shown how that analysis represents an extension and generalisation of three earlier procedures. There are three widely recognised quantitative semi-empirical procedures describing the long term equilibrium dimensions of the entrance channel of barrier estuaries and tidal inlets. The best known of these laws is the tidal prism-entrance area relation, often referred to as the O'Brien equation. The second procedure is based on the Escoffier or closure diagram, comprising a simple hydrodynamic relationship between the entrance area and the entrance velocity together with an empirical "equilibrium velocity". The third is the set of rules developed by Bruun that relate the entrance channel stability to the longshore sediment supply and the entrance channel sediment transport capacity. Each of these is based on major simplifications that restrict its utility and range of validity more than is usually recognised. The attractor analysis, while still based on a lumped model, adds sediment transport and deposition/scour equations and enables the use of more realistic entrance hydrodynamics. It predicts the rates of change and presents the results on a practical “attractor map”. The predictions of the three empirical laws are compared with the attractor map and their practical application is critically compared. The empirical laws are shown to provide broadly equivalent predictions to the attractor map, but over limited ranges of estuary conditions. In particular, none of the empirical laws identifies the entrance closure state or describes conditions near closure. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The classification of a lagoon as a restricted lagoon is shown to depend not solely on its geometry but also on the tidal hydraulics. By numerically simulating the tidal exchange of two lagoons of similar geometrical dimensions, the Nidova lagoon and the Papas lagoon, in Western Greece, subject to very similar tidal forcing, applied to the two tidal inlets in the first case and three in the second, very different residence times are found, namely 2.5 days for the Nidova and 25-30 days for the Papas lagoon. This large difference is attributed to the fact that whereas the Papas lagoon functions as a typical restricted lagoon, in which the water renewal is achieved by mixing in the lagoon of the tidal prism water exchanged within a tidal cycle, the Nidova lagoon functions as a flow-through system because of the differential arrival of the tide at its two tidal inlets. It is suggested that this way of enhancing the flushing rate of a lagoon be considered, whenever possible, when creating a new tidal inlet to the lagoon. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Climate change (CC) is likely to affect the thousands of bar-built or barrier estuaries (here referred to as Small tidal inlets - STIs) around the world. Any such CC impacts on the stability of STIs, which governs the dynamics of STIs as well as that of the inlet-adjacent coastline, can result in significant socio-economic consequences due to the heavy human utilisation of these systems and their surrounds. This article demonstrates the application of a process based snap-shot modelling approach, using the coastal morphodynamic model Delft3D , to 3 case study sites representing the 3 main STI types; Permanently open, locationally stable inlets (Type 1), Permanently open, alongshore migrating inlets (Type 2) and Seasonally/Intermittently open, locationally stable inlets (Type 3). The 3 case study sites (Negombo lagoon – Type 1, Kalutara lagoon – Type 2, and Maha Oya river – Type 3) are all located along the southwest coast of Sri Lanka. After successful hydrodynamic and morphodynamic model validation at the 3 case study sites, CC impact assessment are undertaken for a high end greenhouse gas emission scenario. Future CC modified wave and riverflow conditions are derived from a regional scale application of spectral wave models (WaveWatch III and SWAN) and catchment scale applications of a hydrologic model (CLSM) respectively, both of which are forced with IPCC Global Climate Model output dynamically downscaled to ~ 50 km resolution over the study area with the stretched grid Conformal Cubic Atmospheric Model CCAM. Results show that while all 3 case study STIs will experience significant CC driven variations in their level of stability, none of them will change Type by the year 2100. Specifically, the level of stability of the Type 1 inlet will decrease from ‘Good’ to ‘Fair to poor’ by 2100, while the level of (locational) stability of the Type 2 inlet will also decrease with a doubling of the annual migration distance. Conversely, the stability of the Type 3 inlet will increase, with the time till inlet closure increasing by ~ 75%. The main contributor to the overall CC effect on the stability of all 3 STIs is CC driven variations in wave conditions and resulting changes in longshore sediment transport; not Sea level rise as commonly believed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical models of ocean circulation often depend on parameters that must be tuned to match either results from laboratory experiments or field observations. This study demonstrates that an initial, suboptimal estimate of a parameter in a model of a small bay can be improved by assimilating observations of trajectories of passive drifters. The parameter of interest is the Manning’s n coefficient of friction in a small inlet of the bay, which had been tuned to match velocity observations from 2011. In 2013, the geometry of the inlet had changed, and the friction parameter was no longer optimal. Results from synthetic experiments demonstrate that assimilation of drifter trajectories improves the estimate of n , both when the drifters are located in the same region as the parameter of interest and when the drifters are located in a different region of the bay. Real drifter trajectories from field experiments in 2013 also are assimilated, and results are compared with velocity observations. When the real drifters are located away from the region of interest, the results depend on the time interval (with respect to the full available trajectories) over which assimilation is performed. When the drifters are in the same region as the parameter of interest, the value of n estimated with assimilation yields improved estimates of velocity throughout the bay. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• The papers in this VSI describe major results from the Coastal Genesis 2 research programme in the Netherlands. • Coastal Genesis 2 aimed at the development of a future-proof long-term coastal management strategy. • Three types of papers are included: policy development, lower shoreface, and Wadden Sea tidal inlet systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The classification of a lagoon as a restricted lagoon is shown to depend not solely on its geometry but also on the tidal hydraulics. By numerically simulating the tidal exchange of two lagoons of similar geometrical dimensions, the Nidova lagoon and the Papas lagoon, in Western Greece, subject to very similar tidal forcing, applied to the two tidal inlets in the first case and three in the second, very different residence times are found, namely 2.5 days for the Nidova and 25–30 days for the Papas lagoon. This large difference is attributed to the fact that whereas the Papas lagoon functions as a typical restricted lagoon, in which the water renewal is achieved by mixing in the lagoon of the tidal prism water exchanged within a tidal cycle, the Nidova lagoon functions as a flow-through system because of the differential arrival of the tide at its two tidal inlets. It is suggested that this way of enhancing the flushing rate of a lagoon be considered, whenever possible, when creating a new tidal inlet to the lagoon.

Tidal inlets interrupt longshore sediment transport, thereby exerting an influence on adjacent beach morphology. To investigate the details and spatial extent of an inlet's influence, we examine beach topographic change along a 1.5 km coastal reach adjacent to Matanzas Inlet, on the Florida Atlantic coast. Analyses of beach morphology reveal a behavioral change between 0.64 and 0.86 km from the inlet channel centerline, interpreted to represent the spatial extent of inlet influence. Beyond this boundary, the beach is narrow, exhibits a statistically significant inverse correlation of shoreline position with offshore wave conditions, and has a uniform alongshore pattern in temporal behavior, as determined from empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis. On the inlet side of the boundary, the beach experiences monotonic widening (with proximity to the inlet), lacks spatial consistency in correlation between shoreline position and wave conditions, and exhibits an irregular pattern in spatial EOF modes. We augment the field observations with numerical modeling that provides calculations of wave setup and nearshore current patterns near the inlet, highlighting the effects of the ebb-tidal delta on the assailing waves. The modeling results are verified by a natural experiment that occurred during May 2009, when a storm-produced sedimentary mass accreted to the lower beach, then subsequently split into two oppositely directed waves of sediment that migrated away from the initial accretion site in the subsequent months. Our results suggest that the ebb-tidal delta produces a pattern of wave setup that creates a pressure gradient driving an alongshore flow that opposes the longshore currents derived from breaking of obliquely oriented incident waves. The resulting recirculation pattern on the margin of the ebb-tidal delta provides a mechanism through which the inlet influences adjacent barrier island beach morphology. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical simulations of an idealized lagoon that is connected to the ocean via a tidal inlet show that the mean residence time is inversely proportional to tidal exchange. In the Delft3D model the tidal exchange is controlled by varying the inlet length, width and depth. These changes in the inlet geometry affect the tidal prism and the ebb/flood flow structure, which are shown to control the exchange of lagoon water with seawater. To map residence time within the lagoon, a new method that implements dye tracer is developed and shows that the tidally averaged residence time exhibits significant spatial variability. For inlet systems in which, as a first approximation, the lagoon can be described by a uniformly fluctuating water level, a simple transport model is developed to elucidate the specific processes that control tidal exchange and their effect on residence time. In this transport model tidal exchange is decomposed into two fractions, an ocean exchange fraction and a lagoon exchange fraction. It is shown that both fractions need to be included to better describe tidal exchange. Specifically, inclusion of a lagoon exchange fraction improves previous tidal prism models that assume complete mixing in the lagoon. The assumption of complete mixing results in an under-prediction of residence time. Relating the spatially averaged residence time results to the exchange fractions for each inlet geometry show that the residence time is inversely proportional to the product of the tidal exchange fractions. For these single inlet systems, Keulegan's 0-D hydrodynamic model shows good agreement with Delft3D in predicting the tidal prism, maximum flow velocity, and exchange fractions. With these parameters, estimates of the mean residence time can be reached through a relationship derived from the simple transport model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ebb-tidal deltas are bulges of sand that are located seaward of tidal inlets. Many of these deltas feature shoals that cyclically form and migrate towards the coast. The average period between successive shoals that attach to the coast varies among different inlets. In this study, a quantitative assessment of the cyclic behavior of shoals on the ebb-tidal deltas of the Wadden Sea is presented. Analysis of bathymetric data and Landsat satellite images revealed that at the majority of inlets along the Wadden Sea migrating shoals occur. The average period between succeeding shoals correlates to the tidal prism and has values ranging between 4 and 130 years. A larger tidal prism favors larger periods between successive shoal attachments. However, such a relationship was not found for wide inlets with multiple channels. There is a positive relationship between the frequency with which the shoals attach to the coast and their migration velocity, and a negative relationship between the migration velocity of the shoal and the tidal prism. Finally, the data were too sparse to assess whether the longshore sediment transport has a significant effect on the period between successive shoals that attach to the coasts downdrift of the observed tidal inlets. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal zones in the vicinity of tidal inlets are commonly utilised for navigation, fishing, sand mining, waterfront development and recreation and are under very high population pressure. Any negative impacts of climate change (CC) on inlet environment are therefore very likely to result in significant socio-economic impacts. CC driven variations in mean water level (i.e. SLR), wave conditions and riverflow are likely to affect the stability of, particularly, the thousands of Small Tidal Inlets (STIs, or bar-built/barrier estuary systems) around the world. The combination of their predominant occurrence in developing countries, socio-economic relevance and low community resilience, general lack of data, and high sensitivity to seasonal forcing makes STIs potentially very vulnerable to CC impacts. This article summarises potential CC impacts on the stability of STIs and discusses means by which these CC impacts maybe quantified using existing modelling tools. As presently available process based models cannot be confidently applied with concurrent time varying water level, wave and riverflow forcing over typical CC impact assessment time scales (~ 100 years), a ‘snap-shot’ simulation (~ 1 year duration) approach using process based coastal area morphodyamic models is proposed for qualitative assessments of CC impacts on STIs. As the modelling approach will by necessity depend on the level of data availability, two different ‘snap-shot’ modelling frameworks for ‘data rich’ and ‘data poor’ environments are presented. Process based multi-scale coastal area morphodynamic models and scale aggregated (or reduced complexity) morphodynamic models are identified as modelling approaches that may be pursued in the future to obtain more reliable assessments of CC impacts on STI stability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal inlets are the openings along the coastline that provide a linkage between the open ocean and the hinterland water bodies. These coastal inlets are varied in nature depending on many influencing parameters such as tide, wind, river flow and waves. Amongst these parameters, the tides are the most regular while waves and freshwater flow are more seasonal. The tidal inlets have to be examined and studied to understand the nearshore coastal processes. The inlet remains stable (i.e. open) as long as the alongshore sediment bypasses the tidal inlet. Classification of coastal systems in a broader view is necessary for the management of tidal inlets. There are several methods to classify tidal inlets based on different perspectives namely geo-morphological, hydrodynamic etc. In the present study, tidal inlet classification is carried out considering the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics along the Andhra Pradesh coast, considering the classification method as in Hayes (1984) and Thuy (2013). The Hayes (1984) classification considers only the tidal range and significant wave height, whereas Thuy (2013) considers discharge due to tide (∼Tidal prism /tide duration) and wave (∼ ). A total of 108 tidal inlets along Andhra Pradesh coast on the east coast of India are classified considering annual mean wave height (Hs) as well as seasonal wave heights. This paper presents the methods used and results of the coastal classification along the central east coast of India. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In Otago, southern New Zealand, the lugworm Abarenicola affinis resides in neighbouring tidal inlets with and without seagrass ( Zostera muelleri). A comparison of abundance, body size and biomass of A. affinis between seagrass habitat (Papanui Inlet) and unvegetated habitat (Hoopers Inlet) showed little seasonal variation of these parameters in each habitat and relatively similar abundances between both habitats. In contrast, lugworm biomass was considerably lower in the seagrass habitat due to the lack of large individuals compared with unvegetated habitat. In the seagrass habitat, there was a significant negative influence of Z. muelleri below-ground biomass on abundance and biomass of A. affinis, indicating that seagrass affected lugworm burrowing and/or feeding processes. In contrast to the unvegetated habitat, where lugworms spread relatively evenly across the intertidal area, lugworms were mostly restricted to the upper intertidal zone in the seagrass habitat. The findings suggest that the extensive seagrass bed in the mid and low intertidal zones of Papanui Inlet limited lugworm distribution in an otherwise suitable habitat. Whereas small lugworms colonised seagrass areas, the largest individuals occurred only in unvegetated sediment and seemed to be more hampered by the presence of seagrass than smaller individuals. The findings highlight negative feedback between antagonistic ecosystem engineers, with the potential of seagrass physical structures (autogenic engineering) to impact negatively on lugworm activity (allogenic engineering). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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