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Background Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with null mutations in the filaggrin (FLG) gene. Objective To assess the impact of FLG null mutations on biophysical properties and the molecular composition of the stratum corneum (SC) in healthy individuals and AD patients. Methods A total of 196 French adults, including 97 with a history of mild to moderate AD, were genotyped for the three major European FLG mutations. Components of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), lipids and water content in the SC were determined using Raman spectroscopy. In addition, trans-epidermal water loss, capacitance and pH of the SC were measured. Results Stratum corneum concentrations of total NMF, water, ornithine and urocanic acid (UCA) were significantly lower in AD patients than in healthy controls. Null mutations of FLG were detected in 4% of controls and 10% of AD patients. FLG mutations were associated with increased SC levels of lactate, reduced concentrations of most other NMF components and higher disease severity in AD patients. In AD patients without FLG mutations, the content of NMF constituents decreased with increasing disease severity. The concomittant presence of low concentrations of histidine, alanine and either glycine or pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (PCA) in the SC was associated with FLG mutations with 92% specificity. Conclusions Our findings suggest a low prevalence of FLG mutations in mild AD and support an important role for filaggrin in determining the physicochemical parameters of the SC. The combined measurement of several filaggrin breakdown products in the SC may be useful to specifically predict the presence of FLG mutations.

Background/purpose: This research aims at assessing the influence of baseline skin colour on the ability of reflectance spectrophotometry to detect cutaneous erythema induced by a low concentration of methyl nicotinate (2.5 mM) (first objective), and to detect tanning induced by ultraviolet rays (UVA+UVB) at infra-erythemal doses (second objective). Methods: Two independent studies were conducted to reach their respective objectives, on 27 women for the first study and on 12 women for the second study. Skin colour measurements were expressed in two different ways: percentages of reflected light at increasing wavelengths λ (400 nm

Background/purpose: The variation of skin surface morphological indicators according to age has not been frequently studied. The aim of this work was to establish French Caucasian and Japanese reference ranges of these indicators according to age. Methods: Two studies were performed simultaneously in Paris and Sendai on 356 Caucasian and 120 Japanese healthy women aged from 20 to 80 years. Skin replicas were obtained from the volar forearm and analysed by interferometry. This analysis yielded 16 morphological indicators. Reference ranges according to age were established using the statistical methodology defined by Royston. Results/discussion: Reference ranges were found for 15 out of the 16 parameters for the French women as well as for the Japanese women. The models' truthfulness will have to be confirmed using new samples, larger if possible. Moreover, non-parametric methods will be used in order to compare the results provided by these approaches.

Introduction Dehydration of the stratum corneum leads to sensations and symptoms of ‘dry skin’ such as skin tightness and itchiness. As these complaints are frequently experienced by airline travellers, the aim of this study was to investigate the changes in skin surface hydration during long distance flights. Methods The study was performed on four healthy Caucasian, and on four Japanese women aged 29–39 years, travelling on long distance flights. They had stopped using skin care products at least 12 h before, and did not apply them during the flights. The air temperature and relative humidity inside the cabin, as well as skin capacitance of the face and forearm of participants, were registered at several time points before and during the flights. Results Relative humidity of the aircraft cabin dropped to levels below 10% within 2 h after take-off and stayed at this value throughout the flight. Skin capacitance decreased rapidly on both the face and forearms with most pronounced changes on the cheeks where it decreased by up to 37%. Conclusion Our results demonstrate that during long distance flights, the aircraft cabin environment leads to a rapid decrease in stratum corneum hydration, an alteration, which probably accounts for the discomfort experienced by long distance aircraft travellers.

International audience; The melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) gene is known to play a major role in skin and hair pigmentation and to be highly polymorphic in Caucasians. This study was performed to investigate the relationships between MC1R gene polymorphisms and skin color in a large sample of French middle-aged Caucasian women. The codons 60 to 265 and the codon 294 of the MC1R gene were sequenced in 488 women. The skin color was measured on the inner side of the forearm using a spectrophotometric instrument. Fifteen variants were identified: Arg151Cys, Arg160Trp, Arg142His, Asp294His, Ile155Thr, Asp84Glu, Val60Leu, Val92Met, Arg163Gln, Ser83Pro, Thr95Met, Pro256Ser, Val265Ile, Ala166Ala and Gln233Gln. Women carrying Arg151Cys, Asp294His, Arg160Trp and Asp84Glu variants had a significantly higher reflectance in the red region, which indicates a lower level of functional melanin. This association was the most pronounced for women carrying Asp84Glu. In contrast, no significant difference was observed for other variants. Moreover, associations between MC1R polymorphisms and the risks of experiencing sunburn and of having freckles were found independently of skin color. Our findings support the hypothesis that MC1R polymorphisms do not necessarily alter the skin color but should sensitize the skin to UV-induced DNA damage.

Background/purpose: Sensations of itching and skin tightness are frequently reported after recreational swimming in pool water. Our objective was to measure the potential changes occurring at the skin surface under such conditions. Methods: Nine women participated in this study, which consisted of two periods. During a 4-day control period, basal biophysical skin parameters were assessed every morning. On the first day, measurements were also performed in the afternoon. The second study period followed the same study design as for the control period, except that, on the first day, women swam for 1 h in a public pool, between the measurements performed in the morning and the afternoon. Skin capacitance, transepidermal water loss, skin temperature, skin pH and sebum casual level (SCL) were measured on facial and body sites. Results: During the control period, biophysical skin parameters did not show significant variations. By contrast, h after swimming, biophysical values showed significant changes for all test sites: skin pH increased, whereas skin capacitance and SCL decreased. Biophysical parameters returned to baseline values the day after swimming. Conclusion: Our results demonstrate that recreational swimming leads to significant transient changes in skin surface properties of women with healthy skin.

Background/purpose: Skin properties, such as colour, hydration and texture, can be studied on a qualitative basis by a clinical assessment or on a quantitative basis using techniques that measure biophysical properties of the skin. The aim of this study was to explore the links between facial skin features and a range of skin biophysical parameters using multivariate methods. Methods: A study was conducted on 256 female volunteers from Ile-de-France with apparent healthy skin, aged between 20 and 50, under controlled environmental conditions (mean ± standard deviation: room temperature 22.9 ± 0.3°C; relative humidity 48.5 ± 2.3%). The study included a medical questionnaire and a clinical examination of the skin performed by a dermatologist, and a biophysical evaluation of the skin properties. Seventy visual and tactile skin features were assessed on the forehead and the cheek using ordinal variables illustrated by photographic scales. Twenty-eight biophysical measurements were taken in the same areas using the following equipment: Chromameter®, Evaporimeter®, Corneometer®, Skicon®, Sebumeter®, Sebutape®, skin thermometer, skin pH-meter and Silflo®. In order to group the variables illustrating a same unimodal phenomenon, a typology of the skin features and a typology of the biophysical parameters were carried out using a clustering method. Then, the relationships between each group of clinical features and each group of biophysical parameters were studied using a series of partial least squares (PLS) regressions. Results: From eight groups of clinical features and three groups of biophysical parameters that were identified, 12 significant PLS regression models were built. Our findings suggest that differences in chromametric measurements express not only differences in skin colour but also differences in skin surface properties, such as skin vascularity status, thickness, and existence of wrinkles, and also demonstrate that the level of sebum excretion can affect other aspects of the skin surface. Conclusion: Some skin features assessed clinically do not appear to be linked to any biophysical parameter. This finding confirms that certain phenomena evaluated on the basis of visual or tactile skin features are not assessed on the basis of the biophysical properties of the skin measured by our bioengineering techniques. Indeed, visual skin features mainly appreciate the skin surface aspect, contrary to some biophysical surrogate markers known to provide information on underlying epidermal structures. Therefore, both clinical and biophysical assessments must be associated to supply a relevant and accurate approach for skin aspect characterisation. © 2007 Blackwell Munksgaard.