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Este volume faz parte da coleção “Pesquisas em Design, Gestão e Tecnologia de Têxtil e Moda”, referente ao 2º semestre de 2017. A coleção é referencial para integrar empresas e academia, divulgando os conteúdos e estudos dos programas de pós-graduação das universidades paulistas, com o objetivo de proporcionar à sociedade conhecimento dos melhores trabalhos acadêmicos realizados na área. Dessa maneira, propicia maior integração e amplia a sinergia entre academia e mundo empresarial. A proposta da coleção é contribuir para o desenvolvimento científico, tecnológico, social, cultural e artístico em Têxtil e Moda, prevendo métodos e abordagens interdisciplinares e inovadores, com potencial de utilização no âmbito acadêmico, da pesquisa, como fora deles.

Os principais problemas ambientais gerados pelas empresas das cadeias têxtil, de confecção e calçadista estão relacionados à poluição do solo, ar, água, destinação inadequada dos resíduos sólidos e líquidos que causam impactos no meio ambiente e são prejudiciais à saúde da população. Assim, o principal objetivo deste artigo é avaliar a viabilidade técnica da fabricação de cabedais de malha sem costura, confeccionados em máquinas retilíneas de malharia, utilizando como matérias-primas fibras oriundas de aparas de tecidos, de malhas e de tecidos nãotecidos (enchimentos) descartadas das indústrias de confecção da cidade de Ibitinga (São Paulo, Brasil). Foram selecionadas aparas de tecidos, de malhas e de tecidos nãotecidos (enchimentos), com composição 100% poliéster. As aparas foram cortadas em uma cortadeira automática e desfibradas em uma desfibradora. As fibras desfibradas das aparas foram misturadas com fibras de poliéster reciclado (PET), utilizando a proporção de 50% fibras desfibradas e 50% Poliéster reciclado (PET), as fibras foram fiadas em uma fiação de anéis e em seguida transformados em tecidos de malha. Os artigos produzidos mostram que existe viabilidade para a fabricação de cabedais de malha sem costura usando o modelo de economia circular.

Sustainability as an approach to the contemporary textile and fashion design; not only linked to the environmental vision but concerning the economy, respect for people's work and production. “A new dominant social paradigm (DSP) would focus on creating apparel products that are more efficient in material use, production and consumer utility, as well as better meeting the human needs of the consumer base, inherently more social than material needs. Similarly, clothing education in the dominant new social paradigm would promote the development of skills that would most likely include understanding human needs and ecosystem limitations, working collaboratively with the market rather than trying to dominate it and an understanding of local culture and tradition " (LeHew, 2011). Sustentabilidade como abordagem ao design contemporâneo têxtil e de moda; não só ligada à visão ambiental, mas no que diz respeito à economia, ao respeito pelo trabalho das pessoas e à produção. “Um novo paradigma social dominante (DSP) se concentraria na criação de produtos de vestuário mais eficientes no uso de materiais, produção e utilidade para o consumidor, bem como em atender melhor às necessidades humanas da base de consumidores, inerentemente mais sociais do que materiais. Da mesma forma, a educação do vestuário no novo paradigma social dominante, promoveria o desenvolvimento de habilidades que provavelmente incluiriam a compreensão das necessidades humanas e das limitações do ecossistema, trabalhando em colaboração com o mercado ao invés de tentar dominá-lo e uma compreensão da cultura e tradição local "(LeHew , 2011).

Knitting technology: processes and main products ABSTRACT Currently, the uses and applications of textile products include those intended for domestic use (decorative textiles, furniture, etc.), passing through the wide field of clothing, on the one hand, linked to the great social and cultural phenomena of fashion, and, on the other, to professional or sports clothing, including the specialized segment of technical fabrics, with its great influence on technological innovations, with exponential growth in its applications and in its global technological demand. Within the textile activity, the knitting segment is one of the oldest, recovering its origin to the manual knitting process. Knitting technology is always evolving, and improvements in machine software systems and graphic design give technicians, designers and engineers more options for making technical fabrics. On the other hand, technological innovations in knitting machines are gradually making fashion more sustainable, through new forms of textile production that are more efficient, avoiding the waste of water, energy and raw materials in addition to eliminating pollution. In this article, some technological innovations used in the manufacture of knitted products will be presented.

Comfort is a pleasant state of harmony in the physiological, psychological, neurophysiological, and physical aspects between a human being and the environment. Textile comfort is based on three axes: elasticity, thermal regulation, and touch. The objective of this study is to analyse and measure the main differences in comfort promoted by the use of polyamide and polyester fabrics in the manufacture of sportswear, specifically for running. Two physical tests were carried out on the fabrics: determination of the linear density, and determination of thickness. In vivo tests were performed to verify whether athletes can perceive performance differences between the two garments. The evaluations carried out within this research considered specifically the sporting modality of running, to verify the influence and advantages that the clothing made with each of these fibres to positively or negatively impact performance. Experimental results show that T-shirts made with polyamide yarns present some advantages over those made with polyester yarns.

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate the suitability of linen in garments for atopic dermatitis (AD) wearers. Design/methodology/approach In total, 60 garments were tested with four boys (five to eight years old): two with AD and two healthy kids using circular knitting occlusive structure (OS) 28-gauge and non-occlusive structure (NOS) 12-gauge with cotton, polyester staple and linen yarns. Air and water vapor permeability fabric results were analyzed using ANOVA method and occlusive levels correlated with thickness and UPF rates. Skin irritation levels were evaluated with Patient-Oriented SCORing Atopic Dermatitis (PO-SCORAD) self-assessment tool and for body temperature measurements infrared cameras were used. The authors standardized hygiene products; laundry procedures and soaps were previously identified and measured for their pH and skin irritation history with wearers. Findings Lower skinbody temperature (−2.6°C-−2.8°C) and PO-SCORAD values (16.1-22.8) during use by AD volunteers suggest promoting both wear tolerance (WT) and NOS preference. Air permeability of 3,222 l/m2s with NOS knitted linen as at least 48 percent higher than tested fibers indicating AD volunteers preference during hot climate (24°C to 37°C and 54 to 69 percent RH). Control healthy volunteers were less sensitive to NOS (−1.3°C-−1.6°C) and hot feeling polyester was detected in use. UPF confirms open loops of NOS (NOS UPF 10-5 vs OS UPF 25-15). Thickness (0.6 to 1.0 mm) and RET values (3.1-3.8) were both without significance for this study. Research limitations/implications Due to the experimental character of this study with a reduced group of two AD volunteers, wear test conclusion is limited to these specific boys. Work extension aiming at broad AD wears statistics significance should consider more volunteers. Practical implications The study provides specific answers to opening new possibilities for AD wear other than cotton or polyester, both fibers with more availability in the Brazilian garments retail industry that sometimes did not meet their routine needs. This study provides practical daily understanding of correlations of WT and air permeability level of NOS knitted applied to garments in direct contact with the skin in subtropical climates. Social implications Both academically and socially, the results can contribute to increasing information related to textile process and practical knowledge of knits to better accomplish AD clothing in subtropical climates. The practical wear test results with AD volunteers also indicate guidelines to parents who were having trouble identifying base layers, fundamental textiles and options for their kids in search of possible relief and well being mainly on hot days. Originality/value Circular knitting jersey linen study in direct contact with sensitive skin in a subtropical climate city like São Paulo is unique. The study also considered helping parents of a six-year-old AD boy in attendance to a doctor’s suggestion to find better options of clothings to be used during his daily routines.

Brazil is the fourth larger producer in coconut fruit in the world. However, the industry processes only a small portion of coconut byproducts, which have caused serious environmental problems. The purpose of this article is to test an alternative for the recovery of coconut byproduct. In a series of experiments, recovered coconut fibers (coir) were treated to be employ in textile application. After initial classification and sampling, the fine coconut fibers were subjected to a simultaneous scouring and pre-bleaching process in a mild alkali solution together with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). The fibers were first subjected to this treatment for 10 minutes at 80°C and then again for 20 minutes at the boiling point. The samples were then treated with a cationic softener for 10 minutes at 60°C. After this process, the physical and mechanical properties were measured and values proved not to be statistically significant. The article indicates some of the main obstacles when handling coconut fiber for textile applications and reveals that besides elongation, softness and homogeneity are essential for coconut fibers spinning. Findings in this investigation showed some improved results in relation to the previous literature in two aspects: Firstly, because the treatment did not harm the fibers quality; secondly, because due to the treatment the coconut fibers could be arranged in fibrous strands, which facilitated spinning and weaving for use in textile applications. Keywords: coconut fiber, coir, scouring, softening, textile.

Each Industrial Revolution played a key role in the production-consumption pattern of textile products. Given the complexity of the Textile and Apparel Industry, the production systems have varying degrees of conceptual and technological innovation. Thus, the objective of this research is to present a model that includes the projection of technological changes in the production and consumption of textiles from the contrast between the descriptions of patents, scientific articles, and trends and tools of the Industry 4.0. It was possible to infer that the components of the Textile and Apparel Industry are undergoing an evolutionary process, which includes the automation of machinery parts and processes. The technological tools that characterize the Industry 4.0 are not yet fully integrated into textile production, and the challenge for the textile industry is to keep up with these innovations that impact on production, on business models, on consumer habits, and on social aspects. Keywords: textile and apparel industry, Industry 4.0, assessment, forecasting.

Nella società contemporanea, fortemente caratterizzata da nuove forme di scambio culturali, il settore Moda è in continua evoluzione, capace di produrre innovazione di prodotto e di processo. Infatti, in coerenza con i social changes in atto, i consumatori richiedono merci sempre più performative le quali, oltre ad esprimere valori intangibili culturali e simbolici, sono il risultato di un nuovo processo di creazione del valore più sostenibile.

In contemporary society, strongly characterized by new forms of cultural exchange, the fashion sector is undergoing obvious changes, not only expressed through product innovation but also in the process. In fact, in line with current social changes, consumers require increasingly performative goods which, in addition to expressing intangible cultural and symbolic values, are the result of a new process of value creation that is increasingly sustainable. Thus the urgent paradigm of understanding, developing and promoting a different way of doing Fashion is born. In this paradigm, the key word is "sustainability", but not in a merely environmental sense but also in social and economic terms. The paper reports the results in progress of a research process that sees the convergence of three different approaches related to Design for Fashion (1). The first approach aims to recognize and build new design-oriented values ​​in the Fashion system of small and medium operators with a high qualitative contribution in terms of skills and abilities. The second approach aims at experimenting in the field of textiles with particular attention to the issue of environmental sustainability. The last approach, instead, is aimed at the understanding and strategic development of new processes between design-production-consumption. The assumption that we intend to demonstrate is a) the construction of widespread production chains, which bring together small entities with a characterizing cultural, technical and social contribution, b) the introduction of environmentally sustainable solutions for the production of fabrics and, finally, c ) the development of products that transfer not only tangible values ​​to the final consumers but also and above all intangible values. These, in short, are the essential prerequisites for the creation and dissemination of a new form of value mix for the Fashion sector, identified in the Sustainable Fashion.

This paper is based on the study of the application of the tools of design methodology in technological textile products also called smart fabrics. The application of the design methodology in the creative process took place in a textile factory by checking the contributions to the creativity, innovation, and quality. The purpose of studying the design practices in the use of resources and methods of the textile contributes to the development of the product and also meets the needs of customers. In this context, modifications were necessary to the development tools in the creative process that may cause the best use, reduction and cost containment improving the overall quality and meeting customers’ needs. There is much talk about making products, refining and improving, but there is hardly any detailed application on how to carry it out, what parameters are used to such an achievement and what solutions are applied to the design process. The application in creative processes and product design follows parameters that are often provided by customers. The concepts that are linked to these product development processes, and the understanding of their purpose helps reveal the customers’ needs. Keywords: design methodology, creative process, textile design.

This work demonstrates the development and construction of a system composed of various devices dedicated to measurement and control of temperature and humidity able to simulate the human body's behavior regarding its latent heat, sweating, influence on exposure to wind and cold controlled. The system also comprises of mobile sensors able to measure the temperature and humidity between tissue layers disposed on the main assembly, simulating the formation of microclimate between the skin and worn textile article. The structure built at the end of the work has modular and optional interconnection with external datalog systems, expanding the future research and development.

This literature review explores the problem of post-consumption of green coconut in Brazil. It starts by offering an analysis of the general aspects of the coconut industry and its derivatives. It also highlights the origins of coconut by-products, as well as the impacts of the industry in rural and urban management. The properties and potential uses of coconut by-products are also evaluated. The review presents diverse theoretical approaches regarding the concept of sustainable development as applied to product design. Results reveal a wide range of potential applications of coconut by-products in the field of engineering, although there is still an evident lack of research into the management and logistics of the coconut production chain. We argue that the concept of sustainability must be interpreted broadly, but also objectively, in any future research in order to facilitate the sustainable consumption and post-consumption of the green coconut., Esta revisão explora problema do pós-consumo do coco verde no Brasil. Inicialmente foi feita uma investigação sobre os aspectos gerais da indústria do coco e de seus derivados. A origem da geração dos subprodutos do coco e as consequências de tal indústria para a gestão rural e urbana também foram apontados. Em seguida, foram pesquisados artigos e relatórios científicos para conferir as propriedades e as possíveis aplicações dos subprodutos de coco. Para complementar, foram apresentadas diferentes visões sobre o conceito teórico do desenvolvimento sustentável aplicado ao design de produtos. Como resultado, a literatura cobre uma variada gama de aplicações para os subprodutos do coco em engenharia, entretanto, carece de pesquisas na área de gestão e logística da cadeia do coco. Conclui-se que os conceitos de sustentabilidade devem ser interpretados de forma ampla e objetiva em pesquisas futuras a fim de viabilizar o consumo e o pós-consumo sustentável da fruta.

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to present a comparative study on the characteristics of knitted fabrics used in the manufacturing of apparel, which are produced from organic cotton, lyocell and soybean protein fiber (SPF). It is important for both the environment and society that textile industry continues to adopt more ecofriendly materials and furthermore, pushes to increase awareness regarding these material choices available to the consumer and the corresponding impacts of consumers’ decisions. The use of sustainable fibers may be a starting point for changing the industrial paradigm of the textile industry. Design/methodology/approach – The research presented herein analyzes the potential use of three raw materials used in the development of knitted fabrics: organic cotton, lyocell and SPF. The experimental trials, based on norms, determined the weight, pilling, rupture pressure resistance, absorption by capillarity, dimensional alteration and elasticity. The significance of the experimental results was verified through the analysis of variance, with a confidence interval of 95 percent (p=0.05) and the determination of the optimal regulation of the machine was made through an analysis of the response surface. Findings – The results indicate that each of the studied materials are suitable for textile application; however, the fabrics manufactured from soybean yarn, compared to those manufactured from organic cotton or lyocell, have a higher potential to meet the needs of the costumer. Social implications – The discussion regarding sustainability is far reaching on the ways it interacts with human life. As such, the latent need for meeting this new demand presents a unique opportunity for the development of new processes and products. In the case of the textile industry, initiatives are gradually being adopted that make the processes used by the supply chain less damaging to the environment. Clothing and fashion are highly visible elements of society, so consequently, the textile industry serves as an excellent candidate for promoting a sustainable and eco-friendly mindset. Originality/value – The incorporation of sustainable fibers can serve as a starting point for change to the industrial paradigm existing within the textile industry. To this point, this study intended to analyze the potential implementation of three raw materials – organic cotton, lyocell and SPF – in the development of knitted fabrics. The results indicated that these materials are adequate for textile applications.

In recent years, there has been a substantial increase in the production of knitted fabrics with textured synthetic yarns in circular knitting machines. However, there are few studies for this type of yarn on the effects of variations in tension on circular knitting machines. In this work, we examine the variation in yarn tension before the positive feed and analyze its influence on the properties and quality of knitted fabrics produced with spun yarn and textured synthetic yarn. Knitted fabrics were produced with spun cotton yarn and textured microfiber nylon yarn (polyamide), which were analyzed with respect to loop length. The results demonstrate the importance of controlling the yarn feed tension when working with textured yarns, even with the use of a positive feed, in contrast to what occurs when spun yarn is used. 85 17 1864 1864 1871

O presente artigo visa apresentar uma proposta para incorporar a sustentabilidade e responsabilidade social em uma empresa de produção de vestuário. Expõe a importância do tema em estudo, referências literárias sobre sustentabilidade e a cadeia de moda no Brasil. Propõe ainda um modelo coeso e eficaz para o aproveitamento de sobras dentro de uma indústria de confecção, usando a metodologia de projeto de produto de Bomfim (1975).

Este livro, segundo da colecao “Pesquisas em Design, Gestao e Tecnologia de Textil e Moda”, uma iniciativa da Universidade de Sao Paulo (USP), por meio da Escola de Artes, Ciencias e Humanidades, e um real contributo investigativo que vem dar corpo a um trabalho sistematico e cuidado, que tem sido uma aposta da Escola na construcao de um saber de base epistemologica de design, da criacao ou reforco de linhas de pesquisa, de contribuicao para uma construcao solida da area disciplinar do Design Textil e da Moda.

Orientador: Franco Giuseppe Dedini Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Mecanica Resumo: A estabilidade dimensional dos tecidos de malha é um problema freqüentemente vivido nas indústrias de vestuário. Neste trabalho pretende-se encontrar a melhor combinação dos parâmetros de regulagem das máquinas circulares para produzir um tecido de malha com boa estabilidade dimensional e elasticidade. Foram utilizados fios de algodão e elastano para a fabricação do tecido e a otimização dos fatores de controle da máquina foi feita com base na metodologia Taguchi. Os experimentos foram realizados em três etapas, na primeira etapa foram feitas análises físicas nos fios de algodão de dois fornecedores. Na segunda etapa foram feitos oito ensaios com regulagens diferentes e uma replicação para cada ensaio. Nos tecidos produzidos foram feitas as análises da elasticidade e estabilidade dimensional, para determinar os efeitos e as interações que são realmente significativos. Na terceira etapa foram realizados vinte e sete ensaios onde se determinou a melhor regulagem da máquina para fabricar o tecido de malha com as características desejadas Abstract: Dimensional stability knitted fabrics is a usual problem in apparel industry. In this work, the aim was to find the best set-up of machine in order to achieve a good dimensional stability and elasticity. By using cotton and spandex yarns to build the fabric, the optimisation of the machine parameters was done by the Taguchi's method. Three steps were involved in the experiment. The first, dealt with the physical analysis of cotton yarns from samples of two market suppliers. In the second step, eight different set-ups were made on the machine. Elasticity and dimensional stability of fabrics were determined allowing analysing the significant interaction. In the last step, twenty seven trial was made and lead to establish the best set-up to achieve the desired physical proprieties of fabrics Mestrado Projeto Mecânico Mestre em Engenharia Mecânica

O futebol é praticado em centenas de países e tornou-se um dos esportes mais populares no mundo graças ao seu jeito simples de ser jogado. Embora seja impossível precisar sua origem, o futebol chegou à Inglaterra por volta do século XVII. Posteriormente, ganhou regras claras e objetivas e começou a ser praticado por estudantes e filhos da nobreza inglesa (...)