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The objective of this work was to functionalize with microcapsules of untreated and treated polyester fabrics with plasma and ozone. Plasma treatment was carried out using a corona discharge at 200 W, 400 w and 800 W with a constant gap between electrode and roll of 4 mm. For ozone treatment, polyester samples were exposed for 20, 30, and 45 min to ozone production by low-pressure mercury lamps. After plasma or ozone, lavender oil microcapsules were immobilized onto fabric by a conventional pad–dry–cure process, using citric acid as a crosslinking agent. The microcapsules were produced by complex coacervation between chitosan and arabic gum, with lavender oil in emulsion. The release showed that the ozone on the surface of PET (polyester) increased the affinity for the microcapsules, resulting in a greater adhesion of the microcapsules and, as consequence, more amount of oil to be liberated. On the other hand, the effect of the plasma treatment was related to physical etching, without a chemical change, and does not interfere with the affinity of the microcapsule, whose external layer is a polar polymer. The delay in the oil release from PET treated with plasma can also be related to the pore formation, which could retain the microcapsules and difficult the release of the oil. Ozone proved to be a good surface treatment to enhance the functionalization of the textile substrate, so that the oil release with time can be greatly improved., Postprint (published version)

Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), wax esters, and squalene. Endogenous hair lipids comprise FFAs, CH, ceramides, glycosylceramides, cholesterol sulfate, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Lipids were demonstrated to be fundamental against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Several studies have evaluated the effects of hair lipid content and have shown how hair properties were altered when lipids were removed by solvent extraction. The effect of surfactants on hair lipids is difficult to determine, as the complex structure of the cell membrane complex makes it difficult to determine where surfactants act. Shampoos and conditioners contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine cleansing of hair. However, shampooing does not completely remove all free lipids from the surface layers. The effect of surfactants on the alteration and removal of structural lipids is poorly developed, and there is no consensus on the results. Further research on the lipid composition of the hair could provide information on the penetration pathways of surfactants to improve effectiveness and limit possible damage.

Many flame retardants (FRs) are brominated, and many of them are considered toxic, persistent and/or bio accumulative. A switch to non-halogenated alternatives for textile finishing is considered beneficial, but there is little knowledge about their environmental impact, their health risks during the production process and those in their final use. A conventional and an alternative FR (based on dialkyl phosphono carboxylic acid amine and ammonium sulfamate; urea and organophosphonate PO(OH)2-R-PO(OH)2, respectively) were applied to cotton fabrics that could be in touch with the skin in their final use. Burning and thermal behaviors and dermal toxicity when exposed to skin rubbing are evaluated. Fabrics treated show that both FR products act as FRs. The increase in the thermal stability of the tissue that causes an increase in the decomposition temperature is a relevant effect associated with the application of the conventional FR in the tissue, while the most important effect of the alternative FR lies in the increase of the residue at 600°C, associated with the generation of fewer volatiles, which has an impact on the intensity of combustion. The study of the dermal toxic potential of FR-treated cotton bed sheets showed that the two tested products do not penetrate into the skin when applied under the conditions used and were safe when in contact with the skin. Moreover, the alternative FR seems to be safer when in contact with the skin considering also its higher concentration in the textile.

Recently, a significant interest in eco-friendly textile products and processes has been noted among consumers and producers. In this respect, nanobubble technology is emerging as a green alternative. In this study, water-repellent cotton fabrics were produced with exhaustion and nanobubble technology (e-flow method) using a short-chain fluoropolymer. The currently most developed substituents are based on molecules with short fluorine carbon chains. The wettability, mechanical properties, air permeability and treatment durability were evaluated. The untreated and treated cotton fabrics were analyzed with ATR-FTIR (Fourier transform infrared attenuated total reflectance) and SEM (scanning electron microscopy) to reveal chemical and morphological modifications. The obtained results show that cotton samples treated with short-chain fluoropolymers, nontoxic and eco-friendly finishing chemicals, and nanobubble technology have good water repellence and good washing durability. Due to their size and structure, nanobubbles possess distinct properties that make them particularly effective at improving water quality, enhancing water treatment processes, and improving productivity in industrial applications. Nanobubbles have a strong negative surface charge that keeps them stable in liquid, prevents them from coalescing, and enables them to physically separate small particles and droplets from water, such as emulsified fats, oils, and grease.

Surface treatments for textile substrates have received significant attention from researchers around the world. Ozone and plasma treatments trigger a series of surface alterations in textile substrates that can improve the anchoring of other molecules or particles on these substrates. This work aims to evaluate the effect of ozone and plasma treatments on the impregnation of polymeric microcapsules containing lavender oil in polyester fabrics (PES). Microcapsules with walls of chitosan and gum arabic were prepared by complex coacervation and impregnated in PES, plasma-treated PES, and ozone-treated PES by padding. The microcapsules were characterized for their size and morphology and the surface-treated PES was evaluated by FTIR, TGA, SEM, and lavender release. The microcapsules were spherical in shape, with smooth surfaces. The FTIR analyses of the textile substrates with microcapsules showed bands referring to the polymers of the microcapsules, but not to the lavender; this was most likely because the smooth surface of the outer wall did not retain the lavender. The mass loss and the degradation temperatures measured by TGA were similar for all the ozone-treated and plasma-treated polyester samples. In the SEM images, spherical microcapsules and the impregnation of the microcapsules of larger sizes were perceived. Through the lavender release, it was observed that the plasma and ozone treatments interfered both with the amount of lavender delivered and with the control of the delivery.

The permeability of the oral or nasal mucosa is higher than that of the skin. Mucosa permeability depends mainly on the thickness and keratinization degree of the tissues. Their permeability barrier is conditioned by the presence of certain lipids. This work has the main aim of reinforcing the barrier effect of oral mucosa with a series of formulations to reduce permeation. Transmembrane water loss of different formulations was evaluated, and three of them were selected to be tested on the sublingual mucosa permeation of drugs. Caffeine, ibuprofen, dexamethasone, and ivermectin were applied on porcine skin, mucosa, and modified mucosa in order to compare the effectiveness of the formulations. A similar permeation profile was obtained in the different membranes: caffeine > ibuprofen~dexamethasone > ivermectin. The most efficient formulation was a liposomal formulation composed of lipids that are present in the skin stratum corneum. Impermeability provided by this formulation was notable mainly for the low-molecular-weight compounds, decreasing their permeability coefficient by between 40 and 80%. The reinforcement of the barrier function of mucosa provides a reduction or prevention of the permeation of different actives, which could be extrapolated to toxic compounds such as viruses, contaminants, toxins, etc.

The main objective of this study is the evaluation of the use of a synthetic membrane, Nuclepore, as a model for permeation studies through sublingual mucosa. The permeability of two types of membranes, porcine sublingual oral mucosa and a synthetic Nuclepore membrane, to water was compared. Moreover, the water permeability of membranes modified with waterproofing formulations was measured to study their ability to protect against the penetration of viruses, toxins, etc. A relatively high correlation (R2 0.88) was obtained between the transmucosal water loss (TMWL) values of the artificial membrane and the mucosa. These results support the possible use of this synthetic membrane in the screening of the water permeability of formulations. In addition, studies of the permeation of different actives, drugs, and biocides through the two membranes were carried out, and these results were compared with their skin permeation data. The synthetic membrane does not seem to discern between compounds in terms of permeability. However, the permeation of caffeine through intact or modified membranes incorporating waterproofing formulations presents similar permeation profiles through the synthetic membrane and mucosa. The results from these assays should lend support to the use of this synthetic membrane when screening formulations to be applied in oral penetration studies.

Raw hemp fibers are alkaline delignified to evaluate the effect of lignin on the moisture uptake behavior of hemp. Samples are subjected to moisture absorption/desorption isotherms from 5% to 95% relative humidity at three different temperatures (15, 25, and 35°C). The sorption ratio between delignified and untreated hemp is lowered by 25%. Hysteresis makes evident the greater influence of lignin on moisture binding at low relative humidity while at high relative humidity, cellulose plays the most important role. The GAB, Hailwood‐Horrobin and Dent models are fitted to absorption/desorption isotherms. Delignification and temperature decrease the size of the monolayer. The energy constants of the monolayer differ according to the model used. Lignin causes great differences between absorption and desorption. The greater the temperature is, the lower the monolayer energy constant. The energy constants of the multilayer are identical for the three models, showing a greater range of variation in delignified samples than in the untreated samples. Based on primary and secondary energy constants, bonding enthalpies are determined. Estimations in desorption show higher correlation coefficients with the energy constants, which enables to conclude that measures in desorption better explain the effect of delignification on the water uptake behavior of hemp.

The influence of the alkaline delignification of hemp on its moisture uptake has been studied under the project “Preparation and functionalization of hemp for textile substrates” focussed on the reduction of cotton imports for the manufacturing of clothing, household textiles and medical devices. The project looks for the partial replacement of cotton by hemp on the production of natural cellulosic textiles. Hemp fibres are alkaline delignified at different times to evaluate its effect on their moisture uptake behaviour to evaluate the ability of replacing cotton in the next-to-skin goods manufacturing. The paper gives three easy tools to analyse the moisture uptake behaviour by determining the sorption ratio, the hysteresis and the parameters of the isotherms fitted using three different models (GAB, Hailwood-Horrobin and Dent) to the absorption desorption isotherms. The samples of the original and delignified hemp have been subjected to moisture absorption/desorption trials from 5% to 95% RH at 25 °C. Sorption ratio and hysteresis reveal the greater influence of lignin on moisture uptake at low relative humidities, while at high, was cellulose which plays the most important role. The models fitted to the isotherms show that delignification decreases the size of the monolayer that, in desorption results always greater than in absorption. The energy constants of the monolayer for delignified fibres in absorption were higher than those for the original fibres, while the opposite occurred in desorption. Lignin caused great differences between absorption and desorption. The energy constants of the multilayer show a greater range of variation in delignified samples than in the original one, and results in absorption were higher than those in desorption. Delignification time of 3 h reached the highest cellulose content which best approached to the cellulose content of cotton causing that the moisture uptake behaviour drew near to it, especially at higher relative humidit

Due to the high similarity in composition and structure between lanolin and human SC lipids, we will work with two models from wool wax. Two types of lanolin were evaluated: one extracted with water and surfactants (WEL) and the other extracted with organic solvents (SEL). Skin permeation and skin penetration studies were performed with two active compounds to study the feasibility of the use of lanolin-based synthetic membranes as models of mammalian skin. Diclofenac sodium and lidocaine were selected as the active compounds considering that they have different chemical natures and different lipophilicities. In the permeation assay with SEL, a better correlation was obtained with the less permeable compound diclofenac sodium. This assay suggests the feasibility of using artificial membranes with SEL as a model for percutaneous absorption studies, even though the lipophilic barrier should be improved. Penetration profiles of the APIs through the SEL and WEL membranes indicated that the two membranes diminish penetration and can be considered good membrane surrogates for skin permeability studies. However, the WEL membranes, with a pH value similar to that of the skin surface, promoted a higher degree of diminution of the permeability of the two drugs, similar to those found for the skin.

Raw hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) was subjected to alkaline delignification with the application of NaOH ranging from [0.125M] to [1M] for times from 5 to 480 min. Lignin contents of the original and delignified samples were determined. The samples were subjected to thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) under a N2 atmosphere with temperatures ramped from 25 to 600 °C at 10 °C min-1. Lignosulfonates samples of low, medium and high molecular weight were subjected to the same TGA and showed that lignin decomposed over the entire temperature range. The contributions of lignin to the mass loss during thermal decomposition of hemp and kinetics of lignin content and the most relevant TGA results were determined. Regression models estimating the lignin content of the fibers based on TGA results were formulated. These models allow for the prediction of mean lignin content within ± 0.1% (based on dry weight of pulp) in the central range of the experimental field.

Raw hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) was subjected to alkaline delignification with the application of NaOH ranging from [0.125M] to [1M] for times from 5 to 480¿min. Lignin contents of the original and delignified samples were determined. The samples were subjected to thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) under a N2 atmosphere with temperatures ramped from 25 to 600¿°C at 10¿°C min-1. Lignosulfonates samples of low, medium and high molecular weight were subjected to the same TGA and showed that lignin decomposed over the entire temperature range. The contributions of lignin to the mass loss during thermal decomposition of hemp and kinetics of lignin content and the most relevant TGA results were determined. Regression models estimating the lignin content of the fibers based on TGA results were formulated. These models allow for the prediction of mean lignin content within ± 0.1% (based on dry weight of pulp) in the central range of the experimental field, info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/MINECO/1PE/MAT2016-79352-R, Postprint (author's final draft)

An obvious sign of ageing is the loss of hair colour due to a decrease or lack of melanin in hair fibres. An examination of the lipid levels and structure of grey hair determined using µ–FTIR revealed a high correlation between the characteristics of lipids located in the cuticle and the water dynamics of the fibres. Therefore, a deep study based on external and internal lipid extraction, an analysis using thin layer chromatography coupled to an automated flame ionisation detector, calorimetric analyses and the physico-chemical evaluation of the delipidated fibres were performed. Hairs were evaluated to identify changes in the organisation of these lipids using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and their effect on the water dynamics of the fibres. The primary differences observed for the lipid extracts from white hair compared to brown hair were the lower amount of the internal lipids extracted, which were primarily composed of free fatty acids (FFAs) and ceramides, with a higher content of lower phase transition peaks, indicating increased unsaturated compounds that promote higher fluidity of the lipid bilayers. The virgin white fibres exhibited lower levels of embedded water, with lower binding energies and higher water diffusion, indicating higher permeability. The IR study confirmed the low lipid levels and the greater disorder of white hair. These results may be of interest for cosmetic treatments to which patients with grey hair may be subjected.

Expandable graphite was applied to an upholstery polyester textile material as an eco-friendly flame-retardant alternative to halogenated compounds. Fabrics treated with the flame retardant were evaluated by flammability tests. Besides, thermal analysis was carried out by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA). Moreover, a percutaneous absorption study was conducted to verify the safety in terms of dermal penetration of the flame-retardant treated upholstery fabric for human use. The upholstery fabric treated with expandable graphite successfully passed the flammability tests. Thermogravimetric analyses with TGA and DSC showed that the flame-retardant application slightly decreased the initial decomposition temperatures regardless of the atmosphere but increased the final residue at 600°C (35.7% in O2 and 44.5% in N2) compared to non-treated upholstered fabrics. Dermal permeation of expandable graphite applied on the polyester fabric showed no penetration after 24 h of fabric exposure time. This result demonstrated that graphite-treated polyester fabric is dermatologically and toxicologically safe for use in upholstery. Applied expandable graphite proved an efficient and safe flame-retardant alternative to conventional flame retardants for eco-friendly flame resistance applications in upholstery fabrics.

Los Retardantes de Llama (FR, flame retardants) son un grupo de contaminantes ambientales antropogénicos que se utilizan a concentraciones relativamente altas en muchas aplicaciones. Actualmente, la mayoría de productos FR son bromados, y muchos de ellos se consideran tóxicos, persistentes y bioacumulativos. Las alternativas no halogenadas son una posible solución para el problema, pero hay poco conocimiento sobre su impacto ambiental, sus riesgos para la salud durante el proceso de producción y en su uso final. El principal objetivo del proyecto LIFE-FLAREX es contribuir a la mitigación de los impactos ambientales y de salud causados por los compuestos tóxicos resultantes de los productos de acabado de textiles FR que contienen bromuro, formaldehído y/o antimonio, mediante el análisis técnico y ambiental de su aplicación industrial, así como el estudio de productos alternativos y tecnologías innovadoras para obtener propiedades retardantes de llama similares. En el IQAC-CSIC se ha evaluado la toxicidad de estos acabados cuando un tejido tratado está en contacto con la piel humana, donde la vía dérmica es una de las vías más importantes para la penetración de los compuestos, esto se ha estudiado mediante la metodología de absorción percutánea, calculando después el MoS (Margen de seguridad) de cada FR. También se han caracterizado los tejidos tratados mediante técnicas calorimétricas para estudiar el comportamiento de los FR.

Background The aim of this study is to characterize and detect the possible differences among the hair of three different ethnicities: African, Asiatic and Caucasian. Materials and Methods The differences in water adsorption/desorption behaviour of hairs were studied using a thermogravimetric balance and compared with the analysis of the lipid distribution and order using synchrotron‐based Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy. Besides, the thermal thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analyses on human hair were executed. Results Differences in the diffusion coefficients were evidenced. African hair exhibited increased permeability. Caucasian hair displayed a higher water absorption capability with increasing humidity but with a slow diffusion rate. The Asian fibre appeared to be more resistant to hydration changes. The spectroscopic analysis showed notable differences in the cuticle lipids. The African cuticle exhibited more lipids with a lower order bilayer. The outmost layer of Caucasian fibres contained more ordered lipids, and the Asian fibres show a very low level of lipids on the cuticle region. The DSC results indicate no difference in the thermal stability and TG showed higher water content in the Caucasian fibre and a possible lower cysteine disulphide bond content in the African hair matrix. Conclusion The triple approach demonstrated the permeability differences among the ethnic fibres and their correlation with the properties of their cuticle lipids. These differences could have particular relevance to the hair care cosmetic market.

Flame Retardants are a group of anthropogenic environmental contaminants used in textile finishing’s. Currently, the largest marked group of FRs is brominated FR considered toxic, persistent and bio accumulative. Non-halogenated alternatives are a possible solution, but there is a lack of knowledge concerning environmental impact and health risks. The aim of this study is focused on dermal absorption of FR in order to calculate the Margin of security for textile fabrics treated with flame retardant finishing’s. FR based on sulfamate ammonium were used applied onto cotton and polyester fabrics. Both have been demonstrated that they are dermal safety for human at the conditions used.

Skin-penetration studies play an essential role in the selection of drugs for dermal or transdermal application. In vivo experiments in humans are not always possible for ethical, practical, or economic reasons, especially in the first part of the drug development. It is necessary to develop alternative methods using accessible and reproducible surrogates for in vivo human skin. The in vitro methodologies using biological membranes (human and animal skin) are recognized and well accepted as an alternative but present high inter- and intra-individual variability. Therefore, the formation of synthetic membranes has been studied to obtain skin- mimicking models for permeation studies. The aim of this work is to create lanolin-based artificial membranes that can mimic the absorption through the skin of compounds applied topically. A series of synthetic membranes using two different types of lanolin (water-extracted (WE) and solvent-extracted (SE)) were prepared. Next, the in vitro release test of three drugs (diclofenac sodium, ibuprofen and lidocaine) was performed on artificial membranes and on porcine skin placed on Franz cells. The percentage of release, flux, permeability coefficient, lag time, area under the curve, maximal concentration and time were determined for each compound in the different types of membrane. The results showed that lanolin membranes presented a strong diminution of permeability compared to most artificial membranes, leading to a very similar permeability to that of skin. The SE and WE membranes showed a diminution of transepidermal water loss and permeability of compounds compared with membranes alone. The results from WE membranes were similar to those found for the skin. The lanolin membranes were not capable of perfectly mimicking permeation through the skin, but they did have the same rank order of drug penetration as the skin. It may be deduced from these tests that these systems provide more reliable results for compounds with low to m