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Di Gilpin is the creative director and Sheila Greenwell the production manager of Di Gilpin, an independent knitwear design studio and workshop based in Fife, Scotland. From modest origins on Skye in the 1980s, Di Gilpin is now one of the few hand knitting businesses working with the fashion industry as well as maintaining a presence within the wider hand knitting community by producing knitting patterns, kits and its own brand of knitting yarn. The designs emanating from her small studio are some of the most distinctive to be found on the catwalk, showcasing the creativity and skill required to produce high quality, fashion-forward garments. Di Gilpin has long been an advocate for hand knitting-no machines are used in her business-and has drawn attention to the skill deficit in the sector. Collaborations with the Moray Firth Gansey Project, the Knitting-in-theRound network at the University of Glasgow and more recently with Knitwise and the Prince's Foundation to enhance hand knitting skills in the couture knitting sector, are all part of Di's commitment to the sustainability of the industry and the traditions of hand knit. In conversation with historian Lynn Abrams, Di and Sheila talked about the design philosophy of the company, Di's approach to designing a garment, the challenges of working with collaborators, the relationship between the creative and technical elements of designing knitwear and the problem of skill acquisition and training in the industry. To open the conversation we discussed how Di and Sheila go about designing a garment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

T he image of knitting has waxed and waned throughout its history across the UK, being historically associated with women's domestic work. Nevertheless, hand knitting has demonstrated periods of great creativity and fashionability since the mid-nineteenth century. The twentieth century saw knitting move from the utility of wartime comforts for the troops, to high fashion in the 1920s and 1930s and again in the 1950s, but by the late 1960s hand-knitted clothes were seen as utilitarian and staid. However, from the early 1970s, a new wave of British designer/makers rediscovered the creative potential of knitting; traditional techniques were reinterpreted with color and pattern in a true renaissance of the art. This significant craft-led British design movement repositioned knitwear as fashion, and a new genre "designer knitwear" was born, named a "Knitwear Revolution" by fashion writer Suzy Menkes. This hand-made, textural, colorful, fun knitwear became highly popular "statement" fashion. This article makes an original contribution to fashion and knitwear history by examining this under-researched period, including through personal testimony of the author. It provides new insights into creative approaches to knitwear design and business practices exemplified by British designer fashion knitwear of the 1970s and 1980s and identifies the lasting influence of these small design-led businesses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although machine knitted garments are ubiquitous today, they have only been manufactured for little over a century. The growing popularity of knitted outerwear and the demand for readymade clothing during the interwar period gave hosiery manufacturers an opportunity to diversify their product range using machinery and processes previously only used for the production of underwear. This case study uses the surviving design books of a single company, Peter Scott and Co. Ltd, based in the Scottish Borders to explore a littleknown period of creative experimentation. The company exploited two very different types of production during the years between the wars. A comparison of these, and the garment designs they yielded, offers an opportunity to interrogate the relationships between design, product, and process. An examination of the relationship between product and machinery reveals influence and opportunity as well as negotiation and restriction. This case study not only assesses the influence of machinery on garment styling but also serves to place design into the context of business and industry, which can reveal how business dilemmas, choices and challenges impacted its use. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

T his article deals with the production of hand-knitted fashionable clothing in the British knitwear sector during the socalled designer boom of the 1980s. Drawing on a variety of sources including contemporary newspapers, investigative accounts, television documentaries, and instruction manuals, alongside newlycollected oral testimony from knitwear designers and their knitting outworkers (knitworkers), it explores creativity and the codependencies of manufacture and design in this sector. It challenges the pervading stereotypes that have long haunted the homework sector in British fashion, and argues that in knitwork, knitters have powerful creative agency over the clothes they produce. It demonstrates that far from being mute and obedient producers, knitworkers have made a significant contribution to the history of British knitwear, not only as skilled and talented makers but as influencers of its design heritage too. In this way, this article reconceptualises our understanding of what is meant by creativity in manual production and offers new ways of illuminating the significant creative exchange between maker and designer which until now has been neglected in the literature on both homeworking and the history of knitting more generally. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

T his Introduction frames a curated collection of articles on creativity in the knitwear sector, interrogating some of the ways in which creativity has been inspired, supported and manifested, from the home knitter to the internationally renowned designer, from the craft knitter to the industrial knitwear manufacturer. The contributions provide a diverse understanding of the creative practices of knitting, ranging from the skills of hand knitters to the machine knitting of the 1930s outerwear revolution, and from the investment in design of some of the leading knitwear companies, to the place of repetition in the creative practices of knitters of fair isle and aran knitwear. The collection also includes an interview with Di Gilpin and Sheila Greenwell of the Scottish knitwear company Di Gilpin whose handknitted garments grace the catwalks of top fashion houses, in which they explain how creativity informs both the design and making process. Contributors are drawn from the fields of history, textile studies, fashion and the business sector. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Based on the study of the capacity of hybrid plush knitwear to absorb moisture, a three-layer structure of such a knitwear having a "dryness effect," which was made by using hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers, is proposed. The material for producing hybrid plush knitwear, which allows maximization of the moisture content limit with a "dryness effect," is recommended. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The world is facing huge energy crises and the creation of new environmentally friendly energy sources is imperative. Due to high strength, durability and low cost, polyester fibers yarn are most frequently used in textile sector for apparel and home textiles applications. The non-biodegradable nature of polyester is harmful for ecosystem. Recycling could be the only solution to reduce the environmental impact of polyester. Here, we developed a new potential method for recycling of wastewater polyester bottles to form its fibers. Single jersey knitted fabric were manufactured from recycled yarns. Physical properties of wastewater bottle based polyester yarns and fabrics such as yarn count, lea strength product, unevenness, elongation, burst strength, shrinkage, air permeability, and pilling were measured via respective instruments. We also developed fabric from the virgin polyester. It was observed that the properties of yarns and fabrics made from recycled polyesters fiber are comparable to that of virgin polyesters fabric. This exploration suggests economic and environmentally friendly solution for using wastewater polyester bottles based fibers for textiles application with comparable properties to that of virgin polyester fabric. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A study was conducted to assess the dyeing efficiency of pashmina and pashmina blendedz knitted fabrics. The pashmina, wool and nylon fibers were blended into five different proportions. Each blend was spun into 48 Nm. The yarn thus prepared was processed into interlock knitted fabric on a circular knitting machine. The knitted fabric was divided into two portions. One part of knitted fabrics was subjected to acid dyeing before nylon dissolution, while another part was subjected to dyeing after nylon dissolution. Both the fabric types were evaluated for dyeing efficiency in terms of color values, and fastness properties, besides their mechanical properties. The results indicated that the removal of nylon from the blended fabric resulted in considerable reduction in tensile strength and areal density, however, the elongation properties were not much altered. After nylon dissolution, the color values and fastness properties showed slight reduction, depending upon the blend composition. The SEM images confirmed that the HCl treatment is efficient to remove the nylon from the blended fabric. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract This article investigates textiles as translation and tribute through the work of artist Ellen Lesperance. Focusing on her body of work about the Greenham Common Women’s Peace Camp, exploring themes of activism, feminism and knitting. Drawing from photographs and archival footage, Lesperance faithfully recreates the patterns, symbols and colors of knitwear worn by women in the camp through intricate, gridded paintings. The knitwear was worn by the protesters to display messages of intent and affiliation to a political cause. Clothing is often used as a communication of protest, but these distinctive jumpers were each handmade incorporating hours of labor, love, and wear by the women in the camp. Lesperance’s detailed knitting patterns can be seen as figurative paintings honoring the female activists who made and wore the original pieces. This article examines how textiles can express ideology and lived experience and draws on my current research into how we can use the past to inform design for the future. It explores archival research, reinterpretation, and recreation as a method to invoke the original. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent historiographical trends have ensured the continued relevance of the strike at the Mansfield Mills' hosiery factory in Loughborough in 1972. How this dispute, one of three in the East Midlands in two years dubbed 'race strikes' by the press, gained notoriety and were interpreted as an exemplar of British working-class racism requires re-evaluation. The article uses sources underutilized in previous studies, including the archive of the National Union of Hosiery and Knitwear Workers (NUHKW), to better understand the industry, the traditions of the hosiery craft, and how its processes of training and promotion differed from other industries that experienced 'race strikes'. This article relocates the dispute within the processes of deindustrialization, demographic and social change, workplace culture, and the importance of press reportage in shaping interpretations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. The purpose of this study is to develop a frame model for stretching the weft-knits in the wale direction, suitable for further integration into the algorithm for building a three-dimensional knitwear model in a stretched state and modeling of interactive deformation dynamics. Methodology. Methods of theoretical analysis, basics of knitting theory, topological model of knitwear, methods of geometric modeling and parameterization were used in the research process. Findings. Modeling the physical and mechanical behavior of knitwear in a computer environment is one of the promising ways to increase the level of conformity of knitted products with the requirements of comfort and functionality. However, the complexity of the internal structure, the anisotropy of properties and the instability of the parameters of the loop structure determine the need to find non-trivial ways to solve the problem of mathematical description of the three-dimensional model of the thread, knitted in the knitwear, considering the stretching deformations. During the study, a frame model of a uniaxial stretching of knitwear in the wale direction was developed. The basis of the frame model is the idea of a knitted structure, represented as a logically organized set of elements, each of which is interlaces with other elements in accordance with the topology of knit. The frame of the jersey fragment is described as a set of bars and hinges. The hinges are located at the interlacing points of the loop heads and loop feet, and each rod in the model is an imaginary element representing a complex of force factors that prevent the change of distance between the hinges connected to the given rod. In the process of stretching, the geometrical characteristics of the elements change, while the logical connections remain unchanged. The wireframe model allows to define coordinates of interlacement points in the coordinate system of the sample, relative position of coordinate systems of each elementary fragment, which correspond to given loops, coordinates of characteristic points of a loop for transition to a three-dimensional model of a knitted structure. Scientific novelty. For the first time, a frame model of deformation of the knit, suitable for three-dimensional modeling of its structure, considering deformation of the thrust, was developed. Practical value. The developed model can be used as mathematical support of systems of automated designing of knits. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As a second skin of the human body, clothing offers protection and aesthetic qualities. Because of the inability of materials to adapt to different weather conditions, different clothing is required for different seasons, namely, thin and open garments for summer, thick and closed ones for winter. Moreover, the body maintains its internal core temperature (37 °C) through sweating and shivering. Herein it is reported that woolen knitwear can provide not only warmth, but also a cooling sensation when a body sweats. The fascinating water‐responsive switching (opening/closing) of the knit pores keeps the skin dry, thus helping to maintain a constant body temperature, providing comfort and safety. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. The purpose of this study is to analyze the ergonomic properties of knitwear, that form sense of thermophysiological comfort of a person and their connection with the geometric characteristics of the knitted structure to study the prospects of comfort predicting using computer-aided design systems. Methodology. During the research methods of theoretical analysis, basics of the theory of knitting, theories of thin elastic shell, basic concepts of mechanics and the basics of hydrodynamics were used. Findings. In the course of the work a theoretical analysis of scientific works and normative and technical documentation on various aspects of the definition and provision at the required level of ergonomic properties of knitwear that characterize the level of its convenience and comfort has been carried out. It was found that many researchers refer as most influencing the sense of comfort such properties as: air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal resistance, hygroscopicity, electrical resistance, as well as stiffness and stretchability, that most affect the ability of knitwear to keep shape and fit the size of the human body. It was found that all abovementioned knitwear properties depend on the geometric characteristics of the knitted structure, such as yarn diameter; the loop length; wale spacing; course spacing; the thickness of the knit and others. Theoretical models of mechanical and physical properties of knitwear are functions of the geometrical characteristics of its structure, therefore the quality prediction of physical behaviour of knitwear depends on the quality of the 3D geometric model of the yarn, knitted in the knit. Scientific novelty. As a result of an analytical review of scientific publications and normative and technical documentation, the ergonomics of knitwear that form a feeling of thermophysiological comfort were determined, and their connection with the geometric characteristics of the knitwear structure was established. Practical value. Theoretical models of air permeability, thermal conductivity and stretchability, published in scientific journals, from the point of view of the possibility of their use as the basis for mathematical support of the computer-aided design system of knitted clothing are analyzed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. The study aims at the development mathematical basics for software for automated construction of three-dimensional geometric models of knitwear in the most stretched state due to uniaxial stretching along the wale or course direction. Methodology. The research methods of theoretical analysis, spline theory, methods of three-dimensional geometric modeling and parameterization, computer graphics tools, programming tools were used. Findings. During the research, it was assumed that in the maximally stretched state, the tangent to the centerline of the loop at the interlacing point is located at an angle of 45º to the vertical line oriented along the wale direction. Mathematical expressions are proposed for determining the co-ordinates of the characteristic points of the loop in three-dimensional space. An algorithm and its software implementation have been developed as a separate module of the Structure 3D program, designed to create models of knitwear in a stretched state. To verify the algorithm, samples of weft knitted fabrics were made with a 8th gauge flat-bed knitting machine of para-aramid and high-molecular polyethylene threads of linear density 58.8x2 tex and 44x3 tex, respectively. The parameters of the loop structure of the samples in dry-relaxed state and under maximum uniaxial stretching along the wale and the course directions. Tensile testing of specimens was performed on the machine KaoTieh KT-7010AZ. The maximum stress state of the samples was recorded using a Micro Capture Pro microscope to further determine the changes of the loop structure parameters under the action of tensile deformation. The obtained values of the the loop structure parameters of the samples were used as input data for the construction of three-dimensional models. The deviation of the value of the length of the spline representing the centerline of the thread in the loop model from the length of the thread in the loop obtained during the analysis of the samples does not exceed 5%. Scientific novelty. An algorithm for the automated construction of 3D models of knitted structures, undergoing maximum deformations coursed by uniaxial tension along the wales or course directions, has been developed. Practical value. A separate module of the 3D Structure program has been created for the automated construction of a knitted loop undergoing maximal stretching under has been developed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The textile industry significantly contributes to global environmental deterioration. Bangladesh, as a top knitwear exporter also plays a part in this degradation. Globally, there is a lack of readily available life cycle inventory (LCI) data that could be utilized to make decisions for minimizing environmental impact from this sector. Our endeavor is an attempt to address this lacuna. The study adopts a life cycle approach to evaluate the environmental impacts as well as the water footprint of the Bangladeshi textile industry with a particular focus on knitwear through rigorous field surveys and expert interviews. The assessment for both environmental impact and water footprint singled out fiber production to be responsible for most environmental externalities. The study also calculated the environmental impact of using alternative fiber such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, and recycled cotton and compared it to the existing practice of knitwear production; results of which indicate that employing alternative fiber was not only less damaging to the environment but also was economically more beneficial. Furthermore, the study analyzes three decades of revenue and emission data to project greenhouse gas (GHG) emission probability of the textile industry till 2030 for both business-as-usual scenario and alternative practices (alternative fiber composition). The projection shows that adopting alternative practices can decrease the GHG emission potential of current practices by 32%–82%. Additionally, the study provides an exhaustive LCI for knitwear production which can be used for further development of sustainable solutions and practices of the global textile industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Two polyamide knitwear used in the production of swimwear were analysed. This paper examines the water retention value, the water absorption value and the colour difference after the repeated exposure of the polyamide knitted fabrics, printed with screen printing technique, to the chlorinated water. Screen printing of the samples results in an increase of the water retention value and reduction of the water absorption value for both materials. The colour difference after the series of exposures to the chlorinated water (ΔE) showed that the trend is the same for all reproduced colours (CMYK), i.e. that the increase in the number of exposures to the chlorinated water results in the increase of the difference between the reproduced colours, for both materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Summary: Disperse dyes are essentially non - ionic, exhibit poor solubility in water, and they can be used in the form of water dispersion. Polyester fibres are resistant to dilute aqueous acids and alkaline solutions and pH value does not provide a crucial impact on the dyeing mechanism; however, many disperse dyes undergo degradation if the pH is uncontrolled during aqueous dyeing. In order to minimize the possibility of dye hydrolysis, the dyeing is carried out in a slightly acidic medium, and pH is usually adjusted with acetic acid. In this work, the quantity of disperse dyes (Sinten Gelb P-5GL and Sinten Scharlach P-3GL) applied to polyester knitwear was investigated as a function of pH. The sorption capacity of polyester knitwear was monitored by using reflection curves and CIELab system, according to Swiss software Sandoz (based on spectrophotometry). The acetic acid was used for dyebath pH adjustment. The results showed that the maximum uptake of Sinten Gelb P-5GL and SintenScharlach P-3GL dyes by polyester knitwear occurred at pH 4.64 (0.2924%) and 6.20 (0.1860%), respectively. According to reflection curves in the range (max = 400-700 nm), the effect of pH on the sorption of Sinten Gelb P-5GL was more significant than one for Sinten Scharlach P-3GL, when concentration of dye is constant (0.4%). The CIELab values for three illuminants (daylight, light - bulb and incandescent) showed a significant dependence between pH float and hue and intensity of polyester knitwear dyeing with disperse dyes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. To develop method for determining knitted fabric's characteristics for special purposes by using modern computer programs. Methodology. In the work methods for analysis and synthesis of scientific, technical and patent literature in the modeling field of physical and mechanical processes in various industries were used. Tools that are embedded in the Autodesk AutoCAD software were used to predict properties of the materials CFD software and 3D modeling. Results. The number of software analysis packages and their capabilities. Best software was selected for determining knitted fabrics quality characteristics. Scientific novelty. To identify ways of improving the method for determining physical and mechanical characteristics of jersey special canvas. Also: CFD modeling capabilities were described for determining knitted fabric's quality; were defined and justified demands of 3-D models for the prediction of high-quality physical and knitted fabrics mechanical properties using computer tools. Practical value. The method was offered to determine the knitted fabrics properties using specialized software. This technique allows the help of 3D modeling to recreate experiments in close to real conditions in the laboratory equipment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. To develop method for determining knitted fabric's characteristics for special purposes by using modern computer programs. Methodology. In the work methods for analysis and synthesis of scientific, technical and patent literature in the modeling field of physical and mechanical processes in various industries were used. Tools that are embedded in the Autodesk AutoCAD software were used to predict properties of the materials CFD software and 3D modeling. Results. The number of software analysis packages and their capabilities. Best software was selectedfor determining knittedfabrics quality characteristics. Scientific novelty. To identify ways of improving the method for determining physical and mechanical characteristics of jersey special canvas. Also: CFD modeling capabilities were described for determining knitted fabric's quality; were defined and justified demands of 3-D models for the prediction of high-quality physical and knitted fabrics mechanical properties using computer tools. Practical value. The method was offered to determine the knitted fabrics properties using specialized software. This technique allows the help of 3D modeling to recreate experiments in close to real conditions in the laboratory equipment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The heat and humidity of human body retain as layers of air before passing into the environment. This creates the characteristic microclimate between the skin and clothing which is defined as a feeling of comfort. In addition to comfort, clothing should meet the aesthetic requirements of the individual. Process of printing is often used for the increasing of the aesthetic value of clothing. The printed ink covers part of the surface material, and partly fills the pores between fibers in the yarn, creating an additional barrier to the process of transfer of heat and moisture from the body to the environment. The paper presents the research of the impact of digital printing parameters on sorption properties of printed textile materials. For research were used 100% knitted cotton fiber (100% CO), and 100% polyester fiber (100% PES), and as the essential parameters of the printing process were selected tone value and number of ink layers. The impact of print parameters on the sorption properties of the material has been tested using the air permeability as a parameter of sorption properties. Research results indicate that the printing process with its parameters have a significant impact on air permeability of printed cotton knitwear. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. To examine the international legal practice of determining kinds of knitted fabrics in comparison with the Ukrainian standards and to propose ways of harmonizing the national documents. Methodology. Сomparative analysis of the terms compliance and definitions to Ukrainian standards with the international regulations terms and the authenticity of the translation. Findings. To find differences and technical inconsistencies in Ukrainian international standards. Originality. To define modern, authentic international standards, terms and definitions of knitted weaves with translating Ukrainian terminology in English. Practical value. To provide knitting terms translation authenticity by preparation of the scientific, technical and production documents. Figure out necessity of the terms revising for Ukrainian standard knitting industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. The article is dedicated to improve the manufacturing technology of knitwear from the studies of deformation indicators of thread connections which are a weighty characteristic of a technological level of manufacturing quality of products and their durability of exploitation. Methodlogy. The study was conducted using methods of textile materials science and mathematical modeling and visualization. Findings. Obtained research of stretching indicators of modern knitted fabrics and seams, the use of which is the basis for the choice of processing methods to optimize the process. Originality. The peculiarities of reliability indexes thread connections for deformation characteristics considering the properties of modern knitted fabrics are determined. Practical value. The obtained results give opportunity to carry out the correct selection of thread connections for knitwear products blouses range on stage of design and technological preparation of knitwear production and to determine their technological features. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. Research of features of formation of interior textiles for premises. Art and process design of knitted fabrics when decorating modern interiors. Design and creation of a new range of knitted goods of interior textile for functional purposes. Methodology. There are used methods of analysis and synthesis of scientific and technical information. The research was conducted on the basis of the general provisions of the theory of art designing of knitted fabrics, theory of interior design basics and experimental research methods with extensive use of digital technologies. Findings. There were considered types of range of interior textile for functional purposes, issue of composition interior decoration depending on the style solutions and premises functionality. There were proposed stages of art and process design of knitted fabrics and formation of interior goods. A new range of knitted goods of interior textile for functional purposes was developed. Originality. New stages of art and process design were developed for creation new knitted fabrics of interior textile. Practical Value. A new range of knitwear goods of interior textile for functional purposes was developed for decoration of modern interiors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Textile materials are increasingly being subjected to the process of printing. The printing process with its parameters significantly affects the properties of textile materials and clothes made from these materials. This paper examines the effect of the parameters of digital printing on thermo-physiological characteristics of printed textile materials. As the essential print parameters were selected tone value and a different number of passes. In this research were used knitted fabric materials of 100% cotton fibers (100% CO), 100% polyester fibers (100% PES) and their mixture (50%CO/50% PES). The influence of print parameters to thermo-physiological properties of the material is evaluated through a warm or cold feeling and heat retention ability. Results of the research demonstrated that, in addition to material composition, the printing process with its parameters have a significant influence on the thermo-physiological characteristics of textile materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: study the nature of change of weft knitting fabrics contaning bamboo yarn in linear dimensions after wet treatments. Testing hypotheses about the possibility of reducing the change in the linear dimensions of bamboo knitted materials by adding cotton yarn into their structure. Methodology: the methodology regulated by the standard of DSTU ISO 5077 - 2001 "textile materials. The method of the linear dimensions changes evaluation after washing and drying." Results: the use of combined weft knitting structure, which allows to preserve the benefits of bamboo yarn knitwear, and eliminate some of its shortcomings is suggested. Knitwear proposed weave, made only from bamboo yarn substantially deform after washing. There was a significant increase in the linear dimensions along the rows of looped and looped reduction along columns. Introduction to the structure of jersey cotton yarn can reduce the change of linear dimensions after washing. Scientific novelty: the character of changes in linear dimensions after wet treatments knitwear containing bamboo yarn is studied. The structure of knitted fabric that present a knitted product in which bamboo yarn comes to the human body and provides natural anti-allergy effect and the antibacterial properties of bamboo and cotton yarn can improve the shape stability and reduce the change of linear dimensions of the jersey after washing. Practical significance: a structure is worked out and raw materials set for knitted garments containing bamboo materials, thus reducing the linear dimensions change after wet treatments is recommended. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. Analyze of the change of a general approach to the formation of a range of knitwear for babies. Consider using ecologically safe raw materials for the manufacturing of products for children. Develop knitted set for new-borns with regard to ergonomic and hygienic requirements. Methodology. In the work standard methods of theoretical analysis and synthesis, implemented on the basis of the theoretical foundations of the artistic patterning and constructing of knitwear with wide use of digital technologies were applied. Results. In the paper an analysis of contemporary requirements to products for babies in terms of ergonomics and hygiene are studied. Use of ecologically safe raw materials is proposed and knitted set for children from 0 to 12 months with soy-cotton yarn, which consists of a jumper and a hat is designed. Scientific novelty. Unlike previously used standards that had relevance to wear baby, not earlier than from the age of 3 months and before this it was common used to tightly swaddle, the current recommendations of doctors are considered and set which consists of a jumper and a hat for new-born children of the age from 0 to 12 months in environmentally safe materials is designed. Practical significance. Recommendations on forming of assortment of knitwears for children are offered and patterns of the knitwear set are intended for use on knitting enterprises with the grant of the size table. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In Scandinavia there is a saying: "There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes." This is a sentiment one could apply to Detective Sarah Lund's sweater, a garment so significant that it appears in the TV drama The Killing as a character in its own right. Using the language and literature of knitting, this article considers the significance of one garment in one television drama series as a means of expressing the contemporary sublime; a quest for truth and justice by a lone figure in a chaotic landscape, smothered by institutionalization. The sweater will thus be discussed as neither guise nor disguise, but representative of the internal self, externalized and as a tool for negotiating personal morality within impersonal systems of power. So, Sarah must untangle herself from the smothering sweater in order to complete her journey, and reveal both herself and the killer. Here, Sarah's sweater is not merely knitwear, but the materialization of immorality clothed in the knitted and moral; it s a cover-up. As The Killing implies, murder is the tip of the iceberg; we all need to recognize that our Knitwear is killing us... [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This special issue contains articles derived from presentations originally given at the conference "In the Loop 3: The Voices of Knitting," held September 5-7, 2012, in Winchester, UK. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose. Analysis of an experience of implementation of new technologies of knitted garments design into production. Methodology. In the study the methods of analysis and synthesis of scientific and technical information are used. The object of this study are design stages of knitted wear of different categories in terms of the public joint-stock company «Sofia» - Ukrainian company producing knitwear, in particular assortment of exclusive knitwear for the brand «Bravadi». Findings. One of main directions of successful works of enterprise on planning of line of knitting products for TM «Bravadi» is considered. On the technical basis of the enterprise with modern flat knitting equipment, computer-controlled process of knitting and patterns creation an exquisite collection of knitwear garments was created. Originality. A new strategy for the development of knitting enterprises in the fierce competition is worked out. Practical Value. A promising line of action of knitting enterprise by creation of exclusive knitwear is suggested. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper focuses on the impact of a global production network on the local economy in which production is located, with a particular focus on labour. The network concerned involves knitwear production in Tiruppur, southern India. This has transformed the region surrounding Tiruppur as well as the town, as knitwear production has spread into the countryside. Many of those previously employed in agriculture have moved into knitwear manufacturing and associated activities. This paper uses data collected over a 30-year period in villages located 25–30 km north-west of Tiruppur to show how the local rural economy has changed as the knitwear sector has expanded. The knitwear industry has provided direct employment to a large number of people from less well-placed households, which now commute to work, and it has also pushed up wages in agriculture and other occupations, including those who are not directly related to the knitwear sector. Importantly, the impacts of the expansion of knitwear production have been highly differentiated: access to new opportunities in knitwear has been structured by gender, caste and age. The state has also played an important role. The paper draws attention to the significant effect on the local economy of welfare measures such as subsidised food and the national rural employment guarantee scheme. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Samples of skin, tendons, muscles, and knitwear composed of NiTi wire are studied by uniaxial cyclic tension and stretching to rupture. The metal knitted mesh behaves similar to a superelastic material when stretched, similar to soft biological tissues. The superelasticity effect was found in NiTi wire, but not in the mesh composed of it. A softening effect similar to biological tissues is observed during the cyclic stretching of the mesh. The mechanical behavior of the NiTi mesh is similar to the biomechanical behavior of biological tissues. The discovered superelastic effects allow developing criteria for the selection and evaluation of mesh materials composed of titanium nickelide for soft tissue reconstructive surgery. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Marl yarn, which is regularly used in knitwear and contributes to the scope of knitted fabrics, is often used in response to the colour effects that this yarn can offer the designer. Whilst there is relatively little understanding of the formation of such colour effects, this paper summarises a study on a marl yarn knitting technique to move the level of understanding forward. In this study, four elements: yarn type, yarn colours, knitting machine gauge, and knitting structure have each been considered within the knitting process. A set of 72 samples were knitted by combining different elements systematically. A new terminology ‘marledness’ has been defined and is referred to as: two plied or twisted yarns of different colours to form a knitted sample with colour effects that are evenly distributed in a dotted manner. If the yarns are not twisted together before knitting and tension variations occur, then the result can be a barred effect. Based on the criterion of ‘marledness’, 10 experts and 10 inexperienced observers were asked to rank the outcomes in order. These results allow for a better understanding on how to prepare the yarns and knitting process to achieve different degrees of marledness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Quality sportswear is evaluated through its thermal physiological and ergonomic comfort. In this paper we study the correlation of the mechanical properties of knitwear garments and the ergonomic comfort of clothes. Sportswear is made from different types of materials that can visually seem the same, but when it comes to the mechanical properties that are significantly associated with the fitting of clothes and its deformation during use, there can be significant differences between them. To create a pair of women's cycling pants, the following two kinds of knitwear with the same structural characteristics but with different raw material composition, were used. Two models of women's cycling pants were made from these kinds of knitwear. For making both models of pants, the cutting parts of the same design were used, but with different combinations of knitwear of different elasticity for individual cutting parts, for the purpose of reaching a better ergonomic comfort. The correlation of the mechanical properties of knitwear and the ergonomic comfort of women's cycling trousers was determined through trial wearing and subjective evaluation. Taking into account the study of literature that deals with the issue of comfort sportswear, the mechanical and thermal properties of the used knitwear, and finally the realized trial wearing of female cycling pants, it can be concluded that, in addition to clothing design, the mechanical properties of knitwear and extensibility of materials have a large impact on the ergonomic comfort of the used clothing. Tests have shown that a large contact pressure on certain parts of the body can be reduced by using higher tensile knitwear, as shown in this paper for Model 2. The structural model of cycling pants for Model 2 is the same, and has a significantly increasing functionality and comfort when for the side part of pants instead of ACG-S knitwear we use the ACG-C knitwear, which has a higher extensibility in the transverse direction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]