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Hillebrandt, David, Anil Gurtoo, Thomas Kupper, Paul Richards, Volker Schöffl, Pankaj Shah, Rianne van der Spek, Nikki Wallis, and Jim Milledge. UIAA Medical Commission recommendations for mountaineers, hillwalkers, trekkers, and rock and ice climbers with diabetes. High Alt Med Biol. 24: 110–126.—The object of this advice article is not only to give the diabetic mountaineer general guidance but also to inform his or her medical team of practical aspects of care that may not be standard for nonmountaineers. The guidelines are produced in seven sections. The first is an introduction to the guidelines, and the second is an introduction to this medical problem and is designed to be read and understood by diabetic patients and their companions. The third section is for use in an emergency in mountains. The fourth is for rock, ice, and competition climbers operating in a less remote environment. These initial sections are deliberately written in simple language. The fifth and sixth sections are written for clinicians and those with skills to read more technical information, and the seventh looks at modern technology and its pros and cons in diabetes management in a remote area. Sections One and Two could be laminated and carried when in the mountains, giving practical advice. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: There is a lack of data to establish minimal requirements for technical alpine climbing skills needed by rescue teams involved in alpine helicopter rescue operations to perform such operations safely. Methods: A year of rescue operations (N = 2731) were investigated for the technical difficulties of the terrain. The difficulties were graded according to the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) scale for rocky terrain and steepness for ice slopes. Results: For 99.7% of the operations, the terrain could be accurately evaluated. In at least 30.7% of all rescue operations, personal advanced alpine climbing skills were required for the rescue personnel, and in 6.0%, the difficulties of the rocky terrain correspond to UIAA scale grade III with another 2.4% to UIAA grade IV or above. About 1.5% of all operations took place in ice faces steeper than 50°. Conclusions: To be able to manage 90% of all operations safely, all crew members, except the pilot, must be competent at climbing rock terrain of UIAA scale grade IV and ice of 50° steepness using appropriate rescue, rope, and belaying techniques. These recommendations include a technical safety margin for adverse conditions, such as bad weather. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

AbstractRichards, Paul, and David Hillebrandt. Clinicians Corner: The practical aspects of insulin at high altitude. High Alt Med Biol14:197–204, 2013.—With the increasing prevalence of diabetes and current social philosophy of enablement, many more diabetics are travelling to high altitude where the rate of AMS in Type 1 diabetic mountaineers is no different than nondiabetics. Numerous effects of exercise, both degree and duration, dietary change, illness, stress, mountain sickness, counter-regulatory hormones, and altitude increased sympathetic output, and catecholamines have led to conflicting accounts of insulin requirement increasing or decreasing at altitude. Overall, it would appear that the effects of diet and exercise outweigh those of altitude. Good control requires continual insulin dose adjustment with frequent feedback from blood sugar testing, but glucometers can over- or under-read at altitude. Additionally, heat or cold exposure can degrade insulin efficacy; strategies for storing insulin are described. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mateikaitė-Pipirienė, Kastė, Dominique Jean, Peter Paal, Lenka Horakova, Susi Kriemler, Alison J. Rosier, Marija Andjelkovic, Beth A. Beidleman, Mia Derstine, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, David Hillebrandt, and Linda E. Keyes for the UIAA MedCom writing group on Women's Health in the Mountains. Menopause and high altitude: A scoping review—UIAA Medical Commission Recommendations. High Alt Med Biol. 25:1–8, 2024. Background: Older people are an important fraction of mountain travelers and climbers, many of them postmenopausal women. The aim of this work was to review health issues that older and postmenopausal women may experience at high altitude, including susceptibility to high-altitude illness. Methods: We performed a scoping review for the UIAA Medical Commission series on Women's Health in the mountains. We searched PubMed and Cochrane libraries and performed an additional manual search. The primary search focused on articles assessing lowland women sojourning at high altitude. Results: We screened 7,165 potential articles. The search revealed three relevant articles, and the manual search another seven articles and one abstract. Seven assessed menopausal low-altitude residents during a high-altitude sojourn or performing hypoxic tests. Four assessed high-altitude residents. We summarize the results of these 11 studies. Conclusions: Data are limited on the effects of high altitude on postmenopausal women. The effects of short-term, high-altitude exposure on menopause symptoms are unknown. Menopause has minimal effect on the physiological responses to hypoxia in physically fit women and does not increase the risk of acute mountain sickness. Postmenopausal women have an increased risk of urinary tract infections, which may be exacerbated during mountain travel. More research is needed on the physiology and performance of older women at high altitude. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Andjelkovic, Marija, Peter Paal, Susi Kriemler, Kaste Mateikaite-Pipiriene, Alison Rosier, Beth Beidleman, Mia Derstine, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, David Hillebrandt, Lenka Horakova, Dominique Jean, and Linda E. Keyes. Nutrition in women at high altitude: a scoping review—UIAA Medical Commission recommendations. High Alt Med Biol. 25:9–15, 2024. Background: Nutritional concerns such as food composition, energy intake, and nutrient absorption are essential for performance at high altitude and may differ between men and women. We performed a scoping review to summarize what is currently known on nutrition for women during short-term, high-altitude, physically active sojourns. Methods: The UIAA Medical Commission convened an international team to review women's health issues at high altitude and to publish updated recommendations. Pertinent literature from PubMed and Cochrane was identified by keyword search combinations (including nutrition, metabolism, energy composition, micronutrients) with additional publications found by hand search. Results: We found 7,165 articles, of which 13 original articles assessed nutritional aspects in physically active women on short-term high-altitude sojourns, with other articles found by hand search. We summarize the main findings. Conclusions: Data on women's nutrition at altitude are very limited. Reduction in energy intake plus increased energy expenditure at high altitude can lead to unbalanced nutrition, negatively influencing high-altitude adaptation and physical performance. Therefore, adequate dietary and fluid intake is essential to maintaining energy balance and hydration at high altitude in women as in men. Iron supplementation should be considered for women with iron depletion before travel. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pichler Hefti, Jacqueline, Dominique Jean, Alison Rosier, Mia Derstine, David Hillebrandt, Lenka Horakova, Linda E. Keyes, Kastė Mateikaitė-Pipirienė, Peter Paal, Marija Andjelkovic, Beth Beidlemann, and Susi Kriemler. High-altitude pulmonary edema in women: a scoping review—UIAA Medical Commission Recommendations. High Alt Med Biol. 24:268–273, 2023. Background: High-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) can occur >2,500–3,000 m asl and is a life-threatening medical condition. This scoping review aims to summarize the current data on sex differences in HAPE. Methods: The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) Medical Commission convened an international author team to review women's health issues at high altitude. Pertinent literature from PubMed and Cochrane was identified by keyword search combinations (including HAPE), with additional publications found by hand search. The primary search focus was for original articles that included minimum one woman and at least a rudimentary subgroup analysis. Results: The literature search yielded 7,165 articles, 416 of which were relevant for HAPE, and 7 of which were ultimately included here. Six were case series, consistently reporting a lower HAPE prevalence in women. The one retrospective case–control study reported male HAPE prevalence at 10/100,000 and female at 0.74/100,000. No studies were identified that directly compared sex differences in the prevalence of HAPE. No published data was found for topics other than epidemiology. Conclusions: Few studies and associated methodological limitations allow few conclusions to be drawn. Incidence of HAPE may be lower in women than in men. We speculate that besides physiological aspects, behavioral differences may contribute to this potential sex difference. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Derstine, Mia, Dominique Jean, Beth A. Beidleman, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, David Hillebrandt, Lenka Horakova, Susi Kriemler, Kasté Mateikaité–Pipiriené, Peter Paal, Alison Rosier, Marija Andjelkovic, and Linda E. Keyes. Acute mountain sickness and high altitude cerebral edema in women: A scoping review—UIAA Medical Commission recommendations. High Alt Med Biol. 24:259–267, 2023. Background: Acute mountain sickness (AMS) and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) are illnesses associated with rapid ascent to altitudes over 2,500 m in unacclimatized lowlanders. The aim of this scoping review is to summarize the current knowledge on sex differences in the epidemiology, pathophysiology, symptomatology, and treatment of AMS and HACE, especially in women. Methods and Results: The UIAA Medical Commission convened an international author team to review women's health issues at high altitude and to publish updated recommendations. Pertinent literature from PubMed and Cochrane was identified by keyword search combinations (including AMS, HACE, and high altitude), with additional publications found by hand search. The primary search focus was for articles assessing lowland women sojourning at high altitude. Results: The literature search yielded 7,165 articles, 37 of which were ultimately included. The majority of publications included did not find women at increased risk for AMS or HACE. There was extremely limited sex-specific data on risk factors or treatment. Conclusions: There is a limited amount of data on female-specific findings regarding AMS and HACE, with most publications addressing only prevalence or incidence with regard to sex. As such, general prevention and treatment strategies for AMS and HACE should be used regardless of sex. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Horakova, Lenka, Peter Paal, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, Marija Andjelkovic, Beth A. Beidleman, Mia Derstine, David Hillebrandt, Dominique Jean, Kastė Mateikaitė-Pipirienė, Alison J. Rosier, Susi Kriemler, and Linda E. Keyes. Women's health at high altitude: An introduction to a 7-part series by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Medical Commission. High Alt Med Biol. 24:243–246, 2023. Background: Women have been traveling to high altitude since the inception of modern mountaineering. Although there are distinct female-specific features such as menstruation and menopause relevant to adaptation to and performance at high altitude, very little data exist on women's high-altitude health. To summarize what is known to date, the Medical Commission of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) has created a series of articles on women's health, high altitude illness, and performance at high altitude. Methods: Assembling an international author team, two types of manuscripts were developed: (1) reviews on female-specific topics such as pregnancy; (2) reviews on sex differences in high-altitude related illnesses, nutrition, cold injuries, and mortality. Results: The literature search yielded 7,165 articles, with 482 studies meeting the inclusion criteria for full-text review. The authors of individual chapters reviewed these articles and performed additional hand searches. Conclusions: Some important questions on women sojourning and exercising at high altitude have been studied, but many are still awaiting a qualified and evidence-based response. Our seven reviews, to be published in future issues of this journal, summarize what is known about lowland women sojourning at high altitude, provide recommendations, and highlight knowledge gaps in high altitude women's medicine. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Kriemler, Susi, Kastė Mateikaitė-Pipirienė, Alison Rosier, Linda E. Keyes, Peter Paal, Marija Andjelkovic, Beth A. Beidleman, Mia Derstine, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, David Hillebrandt, Lenka Horakova, and Dominique Jean; for the UIAA MedCom Writing Group on Women's Health in the Mountains. Frostbite and mortality in mountaineering women: a scoping review—UIAA Medical Commission recommendations. High Alt Med Biol. 24:247–258, 2023. Background: The harsh environment of high altitudes (HA) poses many serious health risks for mountaineers, including cold injuries and death. The aim of this work was to review whether female mountaineers are at special risk for frostbite or death at HA compared with their male counterparts. Methods: The UIAA Medical Commission convened an international author team to review women's health issues at HA and to publish updated recommendations. Pertinent literature from PubMed and Cochrane was identified with additional publications found by hand search. The primary search focus was for articles assessing cold injuries and death in women mountaineers at HA. Results: We reviewed the literature and identified 20 relevant studies: 2 studies on frostbite at HA, plus 7 studies and 1 report for death at HA. An additional 10 studies about frostbite at low altitude were included. We found that female mountaineers at HA were at lower risk of death than their male counterparts, but sex differences in frostbite were inconclusive. Conclusions: The frequency of cold injuries and mortality in female mountaineers is not yet well studied, and the studies that have been published tend to lack precise exposure data. More studies and registries with sex-differentiated data are needed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the current media coverage of the spread of Zika virus from Africa and Asia to Central and South America and its possible relationship with fetal abnormalities, UIAA Medcom has produced an advice sheet for mountaineers visiting risk areas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A letter to the editor is presented in response to the article "Telemedicine doctors abroad don't have to register with the GM," by R. Fitzgerald in the February 7, 2012 issue is presented.

Focuses on Dr. Stuart Craddock, a general practitioner who moved to Holsworthy, England in 1936. His work on the early development of penicillin; Reason that the author visited Mrs. Craddock at the Bodmeyrick Residential Home; Reference to a paper by Craddock published in this journal in May 1942.

Presents an obituary for Andrew Charles Sheldon who died on November 10, 1996.

Objectives: The Commission gives recommendations on how to provide health and safety for employees in different kinds of low oxygen atmospheres. So far, no recommendations exist that take into account the several factors we have outlined in this report.Methods: The health and safety recommendations of several countries were analysed for their strength and deficiencies. The scientific literature was checked (Medline, etc.) and evaluated for relevance of the topic. Typical situations of work in hypoxia were defined and their specific risks described. Specific recommendations are provided for any of these situations.Results: We defined four main groups with some subgroups (main risk in brackets): short exposure (pressure change), limited exposure (acute altitude disease), expatriates (chronic altitude disease), and high-altitude populations (re-entry pulmonary oedema). For healthy unacclimatized persons, an acute but limited exposure down to 13% O2 does not cause a health risk. Employees should be advised to leave hypoxic areas for any break, if possible. Detailed advice is given for any other situation and pre-existing diseases.Conclusions: If the specific risk of the respective type of hypoxia is taken into account, a pragmatic approach to provide health and safety for employees is possible. In contrast to other occupational exposures, a repeated exposure as often as possible is of benefit as it causes partial acclimatization. The consensus statement was approved by written consent in lieu of a meeting in July 2009. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

High altitude commercial expeditions are increasingly popular. As high altitude illnesses are common on ascent to altitude, this study aimed to ascertain whether medications for these conditions were carried by commercial operators who run high altitude expeditions. Despite recommendations, it appears that drugs to treat high altitude illnesses are not routinely carried by commercial operators. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Aims: The aim of this review is to inform mountaineers about drugs commonly used in mountains. For many years, drugs have been used to enhance performance in mountaineering. It is the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation-Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme) Medcom's duty to protect mountaineers from possible harm caused by uninformed drug use. The UIAA Medcom assessed relevant articles in scientific literature and peer-reviewed studies, trials, observational studies, and case series to provide information for physicians on drugs commonly used in the mountain environment. Recommendations were graded according to criteria set by the American College of Chest Physicians. Results: Prophylactic, therapeutic, and recreational uses of drugs relevant to mountaineering are presented with an assessment of their risks and benefits. Conclusions: If using drugs not regulated by the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA), individuals have to determine their own personal standards for enjoyment, challenge, acceptable risk, and ethics. No system of drug testing could ever, or should ever, be policed for recreational climbers. Sponsored climbers or those who climb for status need to carefully consider both the medical and ethical implications if using drugs to aid performance. In some countries (e.g., Switzerland and Germany), administrative systems for mountaineering or medication control dictate a specific stance, but for most recreational mountaineers, any rules would be unenforceable and have to be a personal decision, but should take into account the current best evidence for risk, benefit, and sporting ethics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To support leaders and those involved in providing medical care on expeditions in wilderness environments, the Faculty of Pre-Hospital Care (FPHC) of The Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh convened an expert panel of leading healthcare professionals and expedition providers. The aims of this panel were to: (1) provide guidance to ensure the best possible medical care for patients within the geographical, logistical and human factor constraints of an expedition environment. (2) Give aspiring and established expedition medics a 'benchmark' of skills they should meet. (3) Facilitate expedition organisers in selecting the most appropriate medical cover and provider for their planned activity. A system of medical planning is suggested to enable expedition leaders to identify the potential medical risks and their mitigation. It was recognised that the scope of practice for wilderness medicine covers elements of primary healthcare, pre-hospital emergency medicine and preventative medicine. Some unique competencies were also identified. Further to this, the panel recommends the use of a matrix and advisory expedition medic competencies relating to the remoteness and medical threat of the expedition. This advice is aimed at all levels of expedition medic, leader and organiser who may be responsible for delivering or managing the delivery of remote medical care for participants. The expedition medic should be someone equipped with the appropriate medical competencies, scope of practice and capabilities in the expedition environment and need not necessarily be a qualified doctor. In addition to providing guidance regarding the clinical competencies required of the expedition medic, the document provides generic guidance and signposting to the more pertinent aspects of the role of expedition medic. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A response from the authors of the article which discusses medical care in Kilimanjaro is presented.

The article presents a study which examines the inadequate preventive medical advice given to young volunteers in international social projects prior to departure. The authors conclude that special advice for health and safety must be given to young people while abroad. They note that the advice should highlight age-specific risks and vaccination status should be improved for some regions and disease.

The incidence of acute mountain sickness can be reduced by ascending slowly to altitude. We compared a recommended ascent rate with those offered by commercial companies to three of the most popular high-altitude destinations in the world. While the majority complied with the recommended ascent rate, ascents on Kilimanjaro did not. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]