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Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well‐established methods using highly trained and semi‐trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and 'Check‐all‐that‐apply') are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The emergence of new human and environmental‐related toxicity data associated with some common UV filters has catalysed growing interest in the inclusion of boosters and stabilizing ingredients in sunscreens. One approach is to incorporate alternative materials inspired by or mimetic of systems in biology, which offer a notable evolutionary advantage of multifunctionality and stability with increased biocompatibility. We describe the use of a natural product, Xanthochrome® (INCI: Ammonium Xanthommatin), in a series of studies designed to not only assess its safety with marine systems but also its formulation compatibility and function in water‐in‐oil mineral sunscreens. Xanthochrome is the synthetic form of the naturally occurring chromophore xanthommatin (XA) present in cephalopod skin, which doubles as a photostable antioxidant; however, it has never been explored in combination with mineral UV filters in finished formulations. Methods: Given the recent controversies associated with the environmental toxicological effects of some chemicals used in sunscreens, the safety of XA with coral cuttings was first validated at concentrations 5× above those used in our formulations. Next, a particle‐based delivery of XA was designed and incorporated into a zinc oxide (ZnO)‐based water‐in‐oil sunscreen, where the SPF, critical wavelength, and visible light (VL) blocking potential were measured. Results: We observed no adverse effects of XA at 100 mg/L when tested with coral cuttings, demonstrating its safety at concentrations exceeding those used in our sunscreens. When formulated with ZnO‐based sunscreens, the inclusion of XA increased the total UV absorbance profile by 28% and the total blocking potential of VL by 45%. The formulations also elicited no dermal irritation or sensitization in a human insult repeat patch test (N = 100 subjects). Conclusions: XA is differentiated as a photostable, water‐soluble compound that is a VL booster proven safe for skin and coral cuttings. To the best of our knowledge, there are no other boosters that can be classified as such, despite a growing body of literature highlighting the need in the industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Thioredoxin (TRX), a ubiquitous protein with strong antioxidant activity, decreases in the skin with age. A decrease in TRX is expected to induce cellular senescence, chronic inflammation, and degeneration and loss of extracellular matrix (ECM), such as collagen and elastin within the skin. In this study, we investigated the effects of TRX addition to excised skin or skin models to understand the role of TRX on cells and ECM within the skin. Methods: To evaluate its effect on skin cells, we cultured a three‐dimensional (3D) skin model in a medium containing TRX. The mRNA expression levels of proteins related to elastic and collagen fibres and the basement membrane were determined. Furthermore, 3D imaging and computational analysis were performed to evaluate the effect of TRX on the elastic fibres and extending COL VII structures in excised human skin after coculturing with TRX for 1, 4, 5 and 6 days. Results: Thioredoxin application to a 3D skin model upregulated elastin, COLI and COLVII mRNA expression. Applying TRX to the excised skin increased the number of linear elastic fibres. This effect of TRX demonstrated a daily increment in a dose‐dependent manner. Thioredoxin extended the fibrous structure of COL VII into the dermis, expanding its colocalization region with elastic fibres. These structural effects were confirmed using 3D imaging and computational methods. Conclusion: Thioredoxin elongates elastic fibres from the dermis to the basement membrane and extends the COL VII structure from the basement membrane to the dermis in excised human skin. These findings suggest the potential of TRX to protect the skin against age‐related alterations such as wrinkles and sagging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion Basic therapy is an integral part of the treatment of chronic skin diseases. However, the formulation of skin products should be analysed with respect to the physical stability and tolerance by the patients before applying them to diseased skin. In particular, the suitability of the formulation for use on damaged skin should be taken into consideration so that no exacerbation of the condition is caused.The following approach investigated two formulations with the emulsifier sorbitan monostearate and one with the addition of polyethylene glycol 100 stearyl ether. The characterization included rheology, macroscopic and microscopic cream analysis compared to marketed products for basic therapy. Pyranine staining of stratum corneum (SC) and trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed with ex vivo porcine SC to asses skin barrier function.The rheological characterization showed a gel‐like, viscoelastic behaviour of the formulations and a viscosity in the same order of magnitude as the marketed products. Staining with pyranine revealed that skin damage caused by sodium lauryl sulfate was compensated by treatment with the developed formulations. Following the same trend, TEWL results clearly showed decreasing values, which evidence improved skin barrier function.In conclusion, the developed sorbitan monostearate formulations can potentially improve deficient skin barrier function as a part of basic therapy of skin diseases and act as a superior alternative to market products comprising a minimum of well‐chosen ingredients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusion This research investigates how particle parameters, such as zeta potential, size, functional group, material composition, and hydrophobicity affect their affinity and deposition of particles onto hair.Streaming potential was used as the technique for analysis. The streaming potential data obtained was then converted to surface coverage data. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was also done to visualize particle localization on the hair surface.This study found stronger particle affinity on healthy than on damaged (oxidatively bleached) hair, due to diminished interaction sites from the removal of the hair shaft's external lipid layer. SEM imaging supported these findings and offered insights into particle localization. Hydrophilic silica particles accumulated along the exposed hydrophilic cuticle edges of healthy hair, due to hydrogen bonding with the exposed endocuticle. This localization is hypothesized to be due to the limited hydrophilic binding sites on the hydrophobic healthy hair cuticle surface. In damaged hair, an abundance of hydrophilic sites across the cuticle surface results in more dispersed binding. Hydrogen bonding and electrostatic attraction were shown to be the predominant forces influencing deposition, with hydrophobic interactions playing a less influential role. The affinity studies also proved that electrostatic attractions work over a longer range and are more effective at lower particle conditions compared with hydrogen bonding which only start to play a bigger role at higher particle concentrations. Steric hindrance of bulky side groups acted as a significant repulsive force. Results also revealed that larger particles deposit poorly on both healthy and damaged hair compared with smaller ones. Compared with neutrally charged silica nanoparticles (SN‐2), positively charged PMMA particles (PN+16) have a stronger affinity to healthy hair, with highly charged particles (PN+49) depositing most rapidly.This study provides a fundamental understanding of how particle–surface parameters influence their affinity to hair and how damaging hair affects deposition. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper‐ and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal–epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all‐trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All‐trans retinoic acid is considered the ‘gold standard’ for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription‐only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well‐tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Stratum corneum (SC) is essential for skin barrier function, mitigating water loss and shielding against potentially harmful substances and allergens. The SC's lipid matrix, arranged in a lamellar structure, is integral to its protective role. Our study explores the restoration effects of a multilamellar cream with an acidic pH compared to a basic placebo cream on skin physiology and its interaction with the skin microbiome after stress induction via tape stripping (TS). Materials and Methods: In this double‐blind study, 14 healthy participants aged 21–58 years were assessed pre‐ and post‐tape stripping, followed by a 14 days application of a multilamellar test cream and a placebo cream with evaluations on days 7, 14 and 17 for sustained effects. Skin physiology was analysed in terms of epidermal barrier function, SC hydration and surface pH. The microbiome was analysed by 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing the 16S rRNA gene using Illumina MiSeq, with subsequent species identification. Results: Our study showed significant improvements in skin barrier repair and SC hydration with verum, particularly after 14 days of application, while both creams initially enhanced stratum corneum hydration. No significant changes in surface‐pH were detected. The skin microbiome analysis revealed that TS slightly decreased alpha diversity, a trend that verum significantly reversed, enhancing diversity beyond baseline levels after 14 days. Overall, while both creams contributed to a broader microbial phyla diversity over time, no significant changes in the abundance of specific genera or species were noted between treatments. Discussion and Conclusion: Our study delineates the efficacy of a pH‐optimized multilamellar cream in enhancing epidermal barrier recovery and SC hydration post‐sequential TS, in contrast to an unstructured basic placebo. Verum cream significantly improved skin barrier function and SC hydration at day 14, with sustained effects evident beyond the treatment period. Furthermore, the multilamellar formulation facilitated the restitution of cutaneous microbiome diversity, a key indicator of healthy skin ecology, underscoring the symbiotic relationship between barrier integrity and microbial composition. These findings underscore the importance of multilamellar emollient structures in dermatological therapeutics, with potential implications for the design of advanced skincare interventions that holistically support cutaneous resilience and homeostasis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Objective: Emotions play an important role in consumers' perception of a sensory experience. The objective of this work was to investigate the ability of basic skin care formulas (i.e. without interference of odour, colour and packaging) and pillar ingredients (i.e. emollients and rheology modifiers) to elicit emotions. Another objective was to track, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical effects on the skin. Methods: Standard methodologies were mobilized, combining subjective and behavioural parameters (i.e. verbatim, prosody and gesture). Sense and Story methodology based on a collection of metaphoric verbatim was conducted after an induction phase. In addition, an experimental electrophysiological real‐time visualization method was tried as a first experience in cosmetics. Finally, the ability of formulations with emotional benefits to modulate the release of neuropeptides by sensory neurons was evaluated on a 3D human model (epidermis co‐cultured with sensory neurons). Results: Skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the emotions. Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol, highlighting the interest of non‐verbal approaches to detect subtle effects. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity. Conclusion: Emotions were impacted by the change in ingredients and were better captured through non‐verbal methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Water, often considered a fundamental component of life, is the most commonly used ingredient in the formulation of dermocosmetic products, with waterless products being the exception. Dermocosmetic products can contain anywhere from 50% to 85% water, which contributes to their texture and specific characteristics. The chemical composition of water varies depending on its origin and can be categorized as highly mineralized or low mineralized. These compositions could impact the water's efficacy in anti‐aging applications. In this study, the objective is evaluating the anti‐aging properties of highly and low mineralized water with the model organism Caenorhabditis elegans. Methods: In this article, we employed the alternative model organism C. elegans to assess the impact of 5 branded waters, one physiological water and one ultra‐pure water on the model's lifespan, using the survival medium conventionally used for C. elegans as a comparison. Results: Waters may have either a positive or a negative impact on the C. elegans lifespan expectancy. Our results indicate that only one of the water brands we assessed (Volvic®) had a significantly positive effect on worm longevity. In contrast, we found that two other brands (Hepar® and Contrex®) had a negative impact on the later stages of the worm's adulthood. Furthermore, we demonstrated that the impact of the brand water samples on lifespan expectancy varied depending on their physicochemical composition, in particular when ion concentrations were most extreme. Conclusion: This study shows that the highly mineralized waters studied have a detrimental effect on the survival of C. elegans, and a preliminary test with ultra‐pure water could not be completed due to its deleterious effect on the worms. This suggests the hypothesis that both highly mineralized and completely demineralized waters may not be the most suitable for skin formulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Introduction: The skin is of all the organs of the body that is directly and constantly exposed to external agents. Hence the importance of providing all the necessary nutrients to keep it healthy, cared for and hydrated. When this does not happen, the skin begins to lose water, becomes dehydrated, and can be seriously injured. With this intention, a moisturizing serum with natural active ingredients has been designed and developed. It has been developed and characterized through various studies. In addition, it includes a strain of the probiotic species Lactobacillus fermentum CECT 5716, as an innovation, to enhance the synergistic effect of the product. Method: The cited product is characterized by pH, conductivity, and viscosity measurements to test its stability. Besides it is studied to probiotic viability and consumers’ perception of the product’s efficacy. Results: Data extracted from pH and conductivity measurements assure that the topical application of our serum is safe, as it does the consumers’ perception of the product’s efficacy study, offering it a better appearance in terms of smoothness and luminosity. This research has revealed the serum’s pseudoplastic characteristics, optimal for its purpose. Lastly, it has been seen that probiotic viability decreases with time. Conclusions: Based on the results we obtained; it can be affirmed that our moisturizing serum is safe and effective in skin hydration, due to the properties of the raw materials incorporated and the competitive mechanism of the probiotics included.

Introduction: Topical rapamycin has been established as an effective and safe therapy for facial angiofibromas in tuberous sclerosis. Different formulations have been tested for this skin disease, most using an ointment as a vehicle. Purpose: To improve the classical formulation of topical rapamycin and to determine the validity period of the proposed options based on chemical, physical, and microbiological stability studies. Methods: Four different 0.4% rapamycin formulations were prepared (ointment, emulsion, gel, and liposomes). The stability studies for each formulation over 56 days were as follows: (1) chemical: extraction with different solvents and high-performance liquid chromatography assay; (2) physical: pH, uniformity, extensibility, absence of crystals, absence of phase separation, and only for liposomal formulation, particle size, zeta potential, and encapsulation efficiency were determined; and (3) microbiological: culture samples in blood-agar media. Results: Only liposomes were chemically, physically, and microbiologically stable after 8 weeks. Ointment, emulsion, and gel formulations lost their chemical or physical stability before 56 days. Conclusions: The authors describe four new formulations to improve the previous treatment for facial angiofibromas in tuberous sclerosis. The liposome-based formulation was the most appropriate according to chemical, physical, and microbiological stability studies. However, it would be necessary to carry out clinical studies to ensure the effectiveness and safety of this formulation and also guarantee an improvement in the quality of life of patients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Skin aging is a natural process that occurs because of oxidative stress. Facial skin aging is often concerning for individuals due to the exposure of the face. Objectives: To assess and compare the effects of two anti‐aging facial serums on the following characteristics associated with facial skin aging: fine lines/wrinkles, age spots, firmness, elasticity, texture, radiance, tone, lifting, clarity, and complexion. Methods: A 24‐week, double‐blind controlled study was conducted on 130 participants who were randomized into two groups: facial serum with Liposomal Blend and facial serum without Liposomal Blend. Clinical evaluations (Visual Analog Scale) and instrumental evaluations (Cutometer, SIAscope, and Clarity Pro image analysis) were performed at weeks 0 (baseline), 2, 4, 8, 12, and 24 to assess for changes in skin aging characteristics. Results: A total of 123 participants completed the study; participants that used the facial serum with Liposomal Blend had significantly greater improvements in skin aging characteristics compared to those that used the facial serum without Liposomal Blend. This study shows that Liposomal Blend is a vehicle with the ability to enhance the anti‐aging properties of the ingredients within the facial serum by facilitating its delivery into the underlying layers of the skin. Higher concentration of ingredients at the site of action could potentially lead to greater damage repair and improvements in signs of facial skin aging. Conclusion: By using Liposomal Blend, practitioners and pharmacists could potentially improve the delivery of the ingredients within their formulations into the skin, which may lead to increased treatment efficacy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives: Ascorbic acid has many benefits to the skin. Numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery show great challenges since its chemical instability and poor skin impermeability. Microneedle delivery is a simple, safe, painless and effective means to deliver therapeutic or nourishing molecules into the skin. The purpose of this study was twofold: (a) to develop a new formulation of ascorbic acid‐loaded microneedles to enhance ascorbic acid stability by investigating an optimal amount of polyethyleneimine as an additive to the dextran‐based microneedle formulation and (b) to assess microneedle properties in terms of dissolving rate, skin penetration ability, biocompatibility and antimicrobial activity. Methods: The microneedles formulated with ascorbic acid and varied polyethyleneimine concentrations were fabricated and subsequently tested for ascorbic acid stability using 2,2‐diphenyl‐1‐picrylhydrazyl assay. The dissolution rate and skin penetration depth were investigated in porcine skin and the reconstructed human full‐thickness skin model respectively. The skin irritation tests were done according to the Organisation for Economic Co‐operation and Development Test Guideline No. 439. An antimicrobial disc susceptibility test was performed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Results: Among varied amounts of 0%, 1.5%, 3.0% and 4.5% (w/v), the 3.0% polyethyleneimine showed the most desirable characteristics, including well‐preserved shape integrity after demoulding, significantly improved stability of ascorbic acid (p < 0.001) from 33% to 96% antioxidant activity after 8 weeks of storage at 40°C, increased dissolving rate (p < 0.001) by being completely dissolved within 2 min after the skin insertion, passing skin penetration and biocompatibility tests as well as having a broad spectrum of antimicrobial property. Conclusion: With a safety profile and enhanced properties, the new formulation of ascorbic acid‐loaded microneedles shows outstanding potential as commercially available cosmetics and healthcare products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly. Notably, butylated hydroxytoluene (2,6‐di‐tert‐butyl‐p‐cresol) (BHT) and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts exhibit excellent antioxidant and metal‐chelating properties but are not eco‐friendly. In this study, our goal was to develop a new eco‐friendly stabilization system for retinol‐based formulations such that the system does not interfere with retinol skin absorption, nor its clinical efficacy. Methods: An evaluation tool called the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) was used to assess the environmental performance of formulations containing retinol and the various stabilizers investigated. Accelerated stability tests were performed on formulations stored for 2 months at 4 and 45°C (ISO/TR Standard 18811 2018 directives). Long‐term stability evaluation was done on formulations stored for 24‐months at room temperature. Retinol skin absorption was assessed by the Franz cell method using human skin explants (OECD guideline 428). Finally, a clinical study was performed to evaluate the cosmetic performance of a 0.3% stabilized retinol formulation. Results: N,N'‐ethylenediamine disuccinic acid ([S,S]‐EDDS isomer) and pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5‐di‐tert‐butyl‐4‐hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (PBHC) showed higher biodegradability and a reduced water footprint compared with those of BHT and EDTA. The SPOT simulation gave [S,S]‐EDDS + PBHC a score of 10 versus 8.84 for EDTA + BHT. Moreover, [S,S]‐EDDS + PBHC better controlled the chemical degradation of retinol compared with EDTA + BHT. Retinol skin absorption was also achieved in the case of a formulation containing [S,S]‐EDDS + PBHC, and several skin attributes improved significantly after 12 weeks of product use, with over 75% of the panel perceiving benefits. Conclusion: Regarding retinol stabilization, the PBHC + [S,S]‐EDDS combination is an eco‐friendlier and more effective alternative to BHT + EDTA. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The microbiome plays an important role in a wide variety of skin disorders. Hence, dysbiosis in the skin and/or gut microbiome is associated with an altered immune response, promoting the development of skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne vulgaris and dandruff. Studies have shown that paraprobiotics may be promising for the treatment of skin disorders through microbiota modulation and immunomodulation. So, the objective is to develop an anti‐dandruff formulation using a paraprobiotic (Neoimuno) as active ingredient. Methods: Randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled clinical trial was performed in patients who had any degree of dandruff. A total of 33 volunteers were recruited and randomly divided into two groups: placebo or treated. (1% Neoimuno). The ingredient used was Neoimuno (Bifidobacterium lactis strain CCT 7858). Combability analysis and perception questionnaire were applied before and after treatment. Statistical analyses were performed. Results: No adverse effects were reported by patients throughout the study. Through the combability analysis, a significant decrease in the number of particles was verified after 28 days of shampoo use. Regarding perception, there was a significant difference for the cleaning variables and improvement of the general appearance 28 days after the intervention. There were no significant differences for the itching and scaling parameters, as well as the perception parameters at 14 days. Discussion: Topical application of the paraprobiotic shampoo containing 1% Neoimuno was able to significantly improve the feeling of cleanliness and general aspects of dandruff, in addition to reducing scalp flakiness. Thus, with the results obtained through the clinical trial, Neoimuno presents itself as a natural, safe and effective ingredient in the treatment of dandruff. The efficacy of Neoimuno in dandruff was visible within 4 weeks. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sweating is the human body's thermoregulation system but also results in unpleasant body odour which can diminish the self‐confidence of people. There has been continued research in finding solutions to reduce both sweating and body odour. Sweating is a result of increased sweat flow and malodour results from certain bacteria and ecological factors such as eating habits. Research on deodorant development focuses on inhibiting the growth of malodour‐forming bacteria using antimicrobial agents, whereas research on antiperspirant synthesis focuses on technologies reducing the sweat flow, which not only reduces body odour but also improves people's appearance. Antiperspirant's technology is based on the use of aluminium salts which can form a gel plug at sweat pores, obstructing the sweat fluid from arising onto the skin surface. In this paper, we perform a systematic review on the recent progress in the development of novel antiperspirant and deodorant active ingredients that are alcohol‐free, paraben‐free, and naturally derived. Several studies have been reported on the alternative class of actives that can potentially be used for antiperspirant and body odour treatment including deodorizing fabric, bacterial, and plant extracts. However, a significant challenge is to understand how the gel‐plugs of antiperspirant actives are formed in sweat pores and how to deliver long‐lasting antiperspirant and deodorant benefits. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives: The triblock copolymer Pluronic® is widely used in the personal care industry, including sun protection, for its film‐forming and solubilization capabilities. In this study, the effect of three commonly used organic UV filters (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate [EMC], ethylhexyl triazone [EHT], and avobenzone [AVB]) on the structure of Pluronic P123 micelles was investigated. Methods: The Pluronic P123 micelle structure has been investigated using dynamic surface tension, nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and small‐angle neutron scattering (SANS). Results: Dynamic surface tension results show strong interactions between the UV filters and Pluronic® evident by sharp changes in the surface activity of the latter. The NMR results have revealed the creation of a hydrophobic microenvironment special to the Pluronic PPO core group in the presence of UV filters. Some interaction with the hydrophilic EO was also recorded, albeit weaker. This is further confirmed by SANS, where the Pluronic P123 micelles interacted with varying strengths with the UV filters, resulting in sharp changes in their size and shape. Conclusions: We have demonstrated the sensitivity of the Pluronic P123 micelles to the presence of various UVA/B filters. The micelles shape varied from spherical to cylindrical as the concentration and type of the UV filters were varied. These variations in the shape are expected to have a significant effect on the sun protection factor (SPF), as it affects the solubilization of the UV filters within a formulation in addition to the formulations' rheological profile and film‐forming behaviour. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: The skin is of all the organs of the body that is directly and constantly exposed to external agents. Hence the importance of providing all the necessary nutrients to keep it healthy, cared for and hydrated. When this does not happen, the skin begins to lose water, becomes dehydrated, and can be seriously injured. With this intention, a moisturizing serum with natural active ingredients has been designed and developed. It has been developed and characterized through various studies. In addition, it includes a strain of the probiotic species Lactobacillus fermentum CECT 5716, as an innovation, to enhance the synergistic effect of the product. Method: The cited product is characterized by pH, conductivity, and viscosity measurements to test its stability. Besides it is studied to probiotic viability and consumers’ perception of the product’s efficacy. Results: Data extracted from pH and conductivity measurements assure that the topical application of our serum is safe, as it does the consumers’ perception of the product’s efficacy study, offering it a better appearance in terms of smoothness and luminosity. This research has revealed the serum’s pseudoplastic characteristics, optimal for its purpose. Lastly, it has been seen that probiotic viability decreases with time. Conclusions: Based on the results we obtained; it can be affirmed that our moisturizing serum is safe and effective in skin hydration, due to the properties of the raw materials incorporated and the competitive mechanism of the probiotics included. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Trehalose has been used as an emollient and antioxidant in cosmetics. We aimed to explore trehalose amphiphiles as oil structuring agents for the preparation of gel‐based lip balms as part of wax‐free cosmetics. This article describes the synthesis of trehalose fatty acyl amphiphiles and their corresponding oleogel‐based lip balms. Trehalose dialkanoates were synthesized by esterifying the two primary hydroxyls of trehalose with fatty acids (C4‐C12) using a facile, regioselective lipase catalysis. The gelation potential of as‐synthesized amphiphiles was evaluated in organic solvents and vegetable oils. Stable oleogels were subjected to X‐ray diffraction (XRD), thermal (DSC), and rheological studies and further used for the preparation of lip balms. Trehalose dioctanoate (Tr8), trehalose didecanoate (Tr10) were found to be super gelators as their minimum gelation concentration is ≤0.2 wt%. XRD studies revealed their hexagonal columnar molecular packing while forming the fibrillar networks. Rheometry proved that the fatty acyl chain length of amphiphiles can influence the strength and flow properties of oleogels. Further rheometry (at 25, 37, and 50 °C) and DSC studies have validated that Tr8‐ and Tr10‐based oleogels are stable for commercial applications. Tr8‐ and Tr10‐based olive oil oleogels were used for the preparation of lip balms. The preliminary results suggested that the cumulative effect of trehalose's emolliency and vegetable oil gelling nature can be achieved with trehalose amphiphiles, specifically, Tr8 and Tr10. This study has also demonstrated that Tr8‐ and Tr10‐based lip balms can be used as an alternative to beeswax and plant wax lip balms, indicating their huge potential to succeed as a new paradigm to formulate wax‐free cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: This article describes the eco‐design of a new preservative in cosmetics based on bio‐inspiration of natural extracts from traditional medicines. In order to reach the multiple specification targets, various structures have been synthesized and evaluated to select the one demonstrating broad antimicrobial spectrum with favorable environmental profile and application potential to a wide variety of formulas. Methods: In order to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of the synthesized structures, the method of the challenge test consisting in an artificial contamination of the sample with collection microbial strains and evaluation of the number of revivable microorganisms was used to select the most promising candidate. Validation of its antimicrobial potential was later confirmed on Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria, yeast and mold with measurement of its Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) in comparison with known preservatives. Environmental impact assessment of the selected candidate was achieved with the help of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity tests performed according to appropriate Organization tes a strfor Economic Co‐operation and Development (OECD) and European Union (EU) guidelinesy. Results: Bio‐inspired from turmeric and ginger extracts, an ethylated analog of Zingerone (EZ) with the chemical name 4‐(3‐ethoxy‐4‐hydroxyphenyl)butan‐2‐one demonstrates the strongest activity on Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans. Moreover, EZ shows a solubility in water two times higher than that of Zingerone thus increasing its interest as a potential preservative. Finally, its assessment of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity in OECD‐EU tests with a favorable environmental profile confirms its unique interest and fully justifies its use in cosmetic formulas as an eco‐respectful preservative. Conclusion: Bio‐inspiration based on technologies without noteworthy side effects but also on eco‐design, particularly through the use of measures of potential environmental impact very upstream of a development, are two fundamental elements for the launching of new eco‐friendly cosmetic ingredients. This approach has thus validated the strong potential of EZ as a preservative of eco‐respectful formulas. The selection of EZ is also a very good example of the achievement of two key objectives targeted by cosmetic companies for the development of a novel active ingredient: environmental performance and technical performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Titanium dioxide powders are contained in a large class of colour cosmetics and sunscreen formulas. When they are used, the formation of a uniform functional powder layer on the skin is an important factor to show their functionality, such as aesthetic and UV protection. Attempts were made to extract the factors that affect the UV shielding ability of the deposited powder layer. Methods: Seven kinds of surface treatments were conducted on nano‐sized titanium dioxide powder to modify the surface characteristics. Dispersion samples were prepared by mixing these powders with liquids, such as mixed solutions of cyclopentasiloxane, isododecane, coconuts alkane and dimethicone using a disperser and a bead mill. The dispersions were applied using an applicator on cellulose triacetate film, polycarbonate film and polymethyl pentene film. Laser microscope observation and micro‐gloss glossmeter analysis were carried out to assess the flatness of the deposited powder layers, and the UV shielding ability was evaluated using SPF analyser. Results: Factors whose influences on the structure and UV shielding ability of the deposited powder layer being analysed were pseudo‐HLB of the powders, liquids for preparing the dispersions and material of the substrates. Higher UV shielding ability was attained when powders having pseudo‐HLB at around 6 were employed independent from the kinds of liquids and substrates. Flatness of the deposited layer was found to enhance the UV shielding ability of the UV‐B region, while that of the UV‐A region was scarcely influenced by the flatness. Employing lower surface tension liquids for preparing the dispersions and materials exhibiting lower polar components of surface free energy as substrates tended to enhance the UV shielding ability. Conclusion: Surface treatments conducted on the powders in this study were found to change UV shielding ability, especially UV‐B shielding ability, and the relation between pseudo‐HLB and UV shielding ability was scarcely influenced by the kinds of liquids. Both surface tension of liquids and the polar component of surface free energy of substrates affected the UV shielding ability. It was suggested that pseudo‐HLB calculated based on chemical structure becomes useful information to choose optimum surface treatment to make uniform powder alignment independent from the surrounding environment.This study shows that surface treatment changes powders' UV shielding ability, especially the UV‐B range. The relation between pseudo‐HLB and UV shielding ability was not influenced by the kinds of liquids very much. However, liquid surface tension and the polar component of surface free energy of substrates affected the UV shielding ability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

UV transmission microscopy has been used to image a range of sunscreen formulations with different UV absorbing characteristics. While chemical analysis could potentially help here, by tuning the wavelength of light being used, UV microscopy has the ability to directly target individual ingredients. Keywords: claim substantiation; emulsions; formulation/stability; microscopy; UV filters EN claim substantiation emulsions formulation/stability microscopy UV filters 663 671 9 11/10/22 20221201 NES 221201 Optical microscopy has a long history of use in the formulation and testing of topical emulsion products. Normally with microscopy, visible light is used; however, by moving into the shorter wavelength ultraviolet (UV), it should be possible to directly image sunscreen components in a formulation due to their strong light absorption in this spectral region. [Extracted from the article]

Objective: This work aims to evaluate the effects of enzyme concentration, pH, temperature and time course degree of hydrolysis (DH) of papain regarding further development of pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. Methods: The hydrolysis of casein, collagen, keratin and porcine skin at pH and temperature ranges of the human skin was evaluated. Also, low contact times of enzyme–substrate were studied. The incorporation of 3mM of cysteine improved the caseinolytic (PU), collagenolytic (CU) and keratinolytic (KU) activities of papain. Results: In general, the increase from 0.1 to 1.0 or 2.0 mgmL−1 of papain improved PU, CU and KU. When 2.0 mgmL−1 of papain was used, the highest DH of casein, collagen and keratin was obtained at 240min (14%, 35% and 6% respectively). The decrease in pH and temperature reduced all proteolytic activities, but papain maintained at least 50% and 40% of its activity at 26°C and pH 4.5 respectively. Scanning electron micrographs of the surface of the skin showed that papain application had exfoliating activity. Conclusion: This preformulation study demonstrated that papain concentration, time of application and pH of the product should be evaluated when developing a product to promote the hydrolysis of the proteins of the skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Drawing parallels from rheotribology can be used to develop a robust instrumental protocol for non‐subjective characterization, product development and design of topical dosage forms with desired sensory attributes. However, instrumental characterization of cosmetic products can be influenced by the measurement protocol, thixotropy, flow anomalies like shear banding or wall slip and nature of the film formed on the skin surface. In this study, we evaluated the influence of above parameters on the instrumental sensory evaluation of 12 topical formulations of different galenic forms. Methods: Oscillatory strain sweep measurements (SAOS and LAOS) were performed to investigate the influence of frequency and wall slip on the material parameters. The textural attributes at different consumer touchpoints were evaluated by accounting time‐dependent simulation of viscoelastic flow. Further, the influence of film thickness and sample drying on the tactile properties of the topical formulations were studied on a non‐biological skin model using a sliding probe tribometer. Results: The study shows that the flow properties of the semi‐solid formulations depend on the timescale of the problem. A few formulations exhibited wall slip to varying degrees in the linear viscoelastic regime where the behaviour was found not to be characteristic of a particular topical dosage form. The material functions obtained from the Lissajous plots suggest that the non‐linear flow behaviour of different galenic forms is least influenced by the boundary conditions imposed by the measurement geometry. The results were statistically analysed using principal component analysis where the attributes used for discriminating skin creams during pick up and rub out are found to be closely associated with non‐linear rheology. The friction coefficient exhibited speed dependence where it formed different parametric group with rheological data depending on the lubrication regime. Conclusion: The study highlights that correlations are possible amongst rheological, tribological and instrumental textural analysis data, which can act an impetus for the development of models to predict attributes that drive perception at different consumer touchpoints. However, the choice of instrumental settings, anomalies associated with rheological measurements and friction dependence on a number of parameters can influence the model prediction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Photolysis experiments of chlorphenesin, used as a preservative in cosmetic products, were performed in aqueous solution and on a cream used in cosmetics. Three by‐products resulting from the direct UV‐visible photodegradation of chlorphenesin were characterized by chromatography (gas and liquid) coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (GC‐MS/MS and LC‐HR MS/MS) and found in both solutions. In vitro tests on Vibrio fischeri bacteria showed that the overall ecotoxicity of chlorphenesin increased with increasing irradiation time in both samples. In silico QSAR (Quantitative Structure Activity Relationship) tests were performed using T.E.S.T. (Toxicity Estimation Software Tool). Among the degradation compounds identified, 4‐chlorophenol must contribute to the increased ecotoxicity of the photolyzed solution since the in silico LC50 estimated for all tests performed are always lower than those obtained for chlorphenesin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Prosopis juliflora, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of P. juliflora fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties., Methods: The extraction process followed established protocols. Chemical characterization of the extract involved quantification of total flavonoids and phenolic compounds, along with Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis. In vitro antioxidant activity was assessed using different methods. Antityrosinase activity was determined by employing enzymatic assays. Cosmetic formulations containing Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7, and 3.0% of the investigated plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests., Results: The extract demonstrated a concentration of total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 μg EQ/mg) and exhibited concentrations of phenolic compounds at 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Metabolites such as flavonoids and saponins were annotated, as well as some of their respective glycosidic derivatives. The extract showed antioxidant potential and the ability to inhibit the oxidation cascade in both the initiation and propagation phases. Moreover, the extract exhibited noteworthy inhibition of antityrosinase activity, presenting 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests over a 60-day period., Conclusion: This research not only demonstrates scientifically by demonstrating the potential of a plant from the Caatinga biome with antioxidant and antityrosinase properties in the development of cosmetic products aimed at pro-ageing effects and skin colour harmonization, but also adds value to the P. juliflora production chain. This valorization encompasses various aspects which include environmental, social, and biodiversity responsibilities., (© 2024 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Introduction: Stratum corneum (SC) is essential for skin barrier function, mitigating water loss and shielding against potentially harmful substances and allergens. The SC's lipid matrix, arranged in a lamellar structure, is integral to its protective role. Our study explores the restoration effects of a multilamellar cream with an acidic pH compared to a basic placebo cream on skin physiology and its interaction with the skin microbiome after stress induction via tape stripping (TS)., Materials and Methods: In this double-blind study, 14 healthy participants aged 21-58 years were assessed pre- and post-tape stripping, followed by a 14 days application of a multilamellar test cream and a placebo cream with evaluations on days 7, 14 and 17 for sustained effects. Skin physiology was analysed in terms of epidermal barrier function, SC hydration and surface pH. The microbiome was analysed by 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing the 16S rRNA gene using Illumina MiSeq, with subsequent species identification., Results: Our study showed significant improvements in skin barrier repair and SC hydration with verum, particularly after 14 days of application, while both creams initially enhanced stratum corneum hydration. No significant changes in surface-pH were detected. The skin microbiome analysis revealed that TS slightly decreased alpha diversity, a trend that verum significantly reversed, enhancing diversity beyond baseline levels after 14 days. Overall, while both creams contributed to a broader microbial phyla diversity over time, no significant changes in the abundance of specific genera or species were noted between treatments., Discussion and Conclusion: Our study delineates the efficacy of a pH-optimized multilamellar cream in enhancing epidermal barrier recovery and SC hydration post-sequential TS, in contrast to an unstructured basic placebo. Verum cream significantly improved skin barrier function and SC hydration at day 14, with sustained effects evident beyond the treatment period. Furthermore, the multilamellar formulation facilitated the restitution of cutaneous microbiome diversity, a key indicator of healthy skin ecology, underscoring the symbiotic relationship between barrier integrity and microbial composition. These findings underscore the importance of multilamellar emollient structures in dermatological therapeutics, with potential implications for the design of advanced skincare interventions that holistically support cutaneous resilience and homeostasis., (© 2024 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Objective: The growing consumers' preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever‐increasing trend towards natural, eco‐friendly and ethically sourced anti‐ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high‐quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. Methods: Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl‐6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti‐ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic‐mechanical thermoanalysis – DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within 'design of experiments' approach was employed. The general skin performance – preliminary safety and anti‐wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non‐invasive bioengineering techniques. Results: Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear‐thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G' > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. Conclusion: Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract‐loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non‐invasive natural anti‐wrinkle product. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Green and sustainable trends are growing and with that the demand for naturally derived ingredients is rising. Dispersing agents are essential components of lipsticks due to their ability to wet pigment particles, reduce agglomerates and prevent re‐agglomeration by stabilizing pigment particles. In this study, meadowfoam seed oil was evaluated as a pigment‐dispersing agent for lipsticks and compared with castor oil and octyldodecanol. Methods: Dispersions of Red 7 Lake were formulated with 20, 30 and 40% solid content using castor oil, octyldodecanol or meadowfoam seed oil. Particle size, viscosity, spreadability, wetting, oil absorption and colour were measured. Four of the nine dispersions were then formulated into lipsticks, including all the 30% pigment dispersions and the 40% dispersion with meadowfoam seed oil. Lipsticks were tested for hardness, pay‐off, friction, rheology, colour and stability for 4 weeks. Results: Average particle size was between 6 and 9 µm across the dispersions. The castor oil dispersions were more viscous, stickier and harder to spread than the other dispersions. The wetting contact angle was very low for all three dispersing agents, indicating that all of the oils wet the pigment well. The lipsticks varied in hardness, as expected, based on differences in the viscosity of the dispersing agents, and oil absorption of the powder. Red 7 Lake absorbed the highest amount of castor oil, which contributed to higher stick hardness. The castor oil lipstick and the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment were the hardest and most elastic. The octyldodecanol lipstick was the softest. Friction was the lowest for the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment, while pay‐off was the highest for the octyldodecanol lipstick. The colour of the lipsticks as a stick and after being spread on paper was very similar. Conclusion: While the chemical composition and physicochemical properties of the dispersing agents were different, all three dispersing agents studied formed dispersions and lipsticks with appropriate characteristics. Meadowfoam seed oil's performance was qualitatively and quantitatively similar to castor oil and octyldodecanol. By modifying the amount of pigment and dispersing agent used, lipsticks that have similar characteristics to commercial products can be formulated. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Pickering emulsions are increasingly used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields, especially for topical applications, since these systems require solid particles as emulsifiers instead of surfactants which are known to cause skin irritation. The solid inorganic nanoparticles (TiO2 and ZnO) used as UV filters in sunscreen formulations may also stabilize emulsion droplets, so that the utility of surfactants may be questioned. Surfactant‐free sunscreen emulsions solely stabilized by such nanoparticles (NPs) have been studied. Methods: The ability of these NPs to stabilize o/w emulsions containing a 'model' oil phase, the C12‐C15 alkylbenzoate, has been assessed. ZnO and hydrophilic silica‐coated TiO2 NPs widely used in sunscreen products were used together with their mixtures. The emulsification efficiency, the control of droplet size and the stability of o/w Pickering emulsions solely stabilized by NPs were investigated. A ZnO/TiO2 NPs mixture characterized by a theoretical SPF of 45 was finally used as unique emulsifiers to develop a surfactant‐free sunscreen emulsion. Results: Stable Pickering emulsions containing 10 up to 60 wt% of C12‐C15 alkyl benzoate were formulated with 2 wt% ZnO in the aqueous phase. The droplet size was controlled by the solid NPs content with respect to oil and the emulsification process. Hydrophilic TiO2 NPs did not allow the stabilization of emulsions. The substitution of TiO2 for ZnO up to 60–70 wt% in a 20/80 o/w emulsion was successfully performed. Finally, a ZnO/TiO2 NP mixture was tested as unique emulsifier system for the formulation of a sunscreen cream. Despite a lower viscosity, the obtained Pickering emulsion was stable and exhibited a photoprotective effect similar to the corresponding surfactant‐based sunscreen cream with an in vitro SPF of about 45. Conclusion: Surfactant‐free Pickering emulsions can be stabilized by the UV‐filter nanoparticles for the manufacture of sunscreen products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Skin damage from visible light predominantly results from exposure to the blue light spectrum (400‐500 nm) which generates Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) causing a cascade of harmful effects to skin. Topical antioxidants reduce the effects of free radical damage caused by environmental exposures. This study evaluated a comprehensive topical antioxidant's ability to inhibit ROS production induced by blue light and cigarette smoke (CS) in human skin. Methods: Two experiments were conducted utilizing human skin (Fitzpatrick Skin Types III and V; N = 3, each). After confirmed reactivity of untreated tissues at 412 nm, 20J/cm2, untreated and pretreated (WEL‐DS, 2 mg/cm2) skin tissue was exposed to blue light and blue light plus CS and left overnight. A nonfluorescent probe (DCFH‐DA) was added to skin and exposed to blue light (412 nm, 20J/cm2) and blue light plus CS. Fluorescent 2',7'‐DCF was generated upon enzymatic reduction and subsequent oxidation by ROS. Results: ROS increased at least tenfold following initial exposure to blue light and blue light plus CS in untreated skin. Pretreatment with WEL‐DS decreased ROS in FST III exposed to blue light by 51% and 46% in skin exposed to blue light plus CS vs. untreated skin (both, P <.001). In FST V, pretreatment with WEL‐DS decreased ROS exposed to blue light by 54% (P <.001) and 50% in skin exposed to blue light plus CS vs. untreated skin (P <.0001). Conclusion: WEL‐DS demonstrated significant reduction in ROS induced by blue light and blue light in combination with CS compared with untreated, exposed skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: The growing need to use sunscreens is a concrete reality, and it is associated with the increase in the population's awareness of the ultraviolet (UV) radiation damage. Inorganic UV filters promote the formation of particles/pigments film over the skin surface, reflecting, dispersing, and absorbing the radiation. Investigations of this class of filters demonstrate the emergence of alternative ingredients and new technologies. Aims and Methods: In this review, we presented potential candidates for alternative UV inorganic filters, such as hydroxyapatite, cerium dioxide, and hydrotalcite. Results: Specialized literature identified hydroxyapatite and cerium dioxide as actives with good performances, with a broad spectrum of absorption against UV radiation. Both of them were considered safe against degradation and skin erythema formation. Inorganic compounds as an alternative to circumvent degradation problems of organic UV filters containing PABA were also analyzed, with hydrotalcite having a good performance in improving the performance of classic ingredients, bypassing photoinstability, and improving safety, in addition to preventing skin irritability. Conclusion: Further investigations of these ingredients and interactions with sunscreen formulations are necessary to overall explore their safety and efficacy, encouraging future researches for more inorganic UV filters. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Product aesthetics and sensory performance can strongly influence a cosmetic product's acceptance by consumers. However, classic sensory analysis is time‐consuming, expensive and does not provide information on the target group's preference. In the previous phase of this project, we had untrained consumers evaluate six cosmetic emulsions based on their aesthetics using a check‐all‐that‐apply (CATA) survey. In this project, our goals were to quantitatively characterize the rheology and textural properties of the six cosmetic emulsions containing green, bio‐derived emollients and identify statistical relationships between the consumers' description of products and the instrumental measurements. Methods: Six emulsions were prepared—three with olive oil and three with heptyl undecylenate as an emollient. Four sensory‐like attributes, namely firmness, work of shear, stickiness and adhesiveness, were tested using a texture analyser. Rheological characterization included continuous flow testing and oscillatory measurements. Droplet size and stability were also evaluated. Statistical relationships were quantified between measurements in this study and sensory survey results published previously. Results: The textural and rheological results indicated that the emulsions were different—as designed. The texture and rheology measurements had analogous grouping outcomes to the consumers' discrimination. Emulsions 1 and 2 were the firmest, hardest to spread, stickiest and had the highest viscosity, while Emulsions 5 and 6 were the least firm, easiest to spread, less sticky than Emulsions 1 and 2, and had the lowest viscosity. Emulsions 3 and 4 fell in between the other two groups. Using olive oil instead of heptyl undecylenate as an emollient increased firmness, spreading, stickiness, viscosity and droplet size of the emulsions in every case—when comparing emulsions within each pair. All six emulsions had a shear‐thinning behaviour. Viscosity and firmness directly correlated for the emulsions. Emulsions were visually stable at room temperature over the course of 6 months and viscosity remained relatively constant over this period also. Conclusion: Certain sensory attributes can be reliably predicted with instrumental measurements. Identifying and quantifying sensory–texture–rheology relationships can contribute to achieving appropriate product characteristics tailored to suit market needs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The sample preparation of a cosmetic specimen in Cosmetic Science for the purpose of determining the analytical composition of heavy and toxic metals such as lead (Pb), mercury (Hg), cadmium (Cd), and arsenic (As) is of particular importance due to the difficulty of handling the sample. There are two main methods of sample preparation. The first method is the wet digestion of the sample with strong acids such as H2SO4, HNO3, HF, and HNO3/HCl (1:3) and the combination of a strong acid with H2O2. Liquid digestion of the sample under the influence of strong acids damages the organic material of the sample and converts the carbon into carbon dioxide. The contained metals are oxidized to the highest oxidizing step and converted to soluble salts. A problem with this method is the loss of metals during digestion because it occurs at high temperatures as well as the decrease in the concentration of the residual acid. The second method of preparation is the wet liquid digestion of the sample with strong acids in a microwave oven in a closed vessel. The acids that are used are mainly HNO3 or mixtures of acids such as HNO3–HCl and HNO3–H2SO4. When the sample in the acid’s solvent is exposed to microwave energy, it can reach temperatures substantially above the boiling temperature of the acid solution. The result is the decomposition of the organic material, the oxidation of the metals, and their conversion to soluble nitrates. The advantages of using microwaves are the ability to control the temperature, pressure, and loss of metals and, thus, avoid erroneous measurement results. Simultaneously with the above, extraction methods have been, for almost a decade, very effective complementary processes that we can use to enrich a sample of a cosmetic product. Liquid–liquid dispersion micro-extraction (DLLME) and solid phase extraction (SPE) are the two main methods used in sample preparation and are usually applied after the digestion process.

Objective: Cosmetic films and patches are interesting forms to promote skin penetration of active ingredients as they ensure their long stay on the treated zone of the skin. Nevertheless, currently developed films and patches are most of all hydrophilic and are not adapted to the hydrophobic molecules. The aim of this study was to establish whether nanodispersion of fatty acid‐based active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) could be a manner to introduce high concentrations of those ACI in hydrophilic films. Methods: Punica granatum seed oil hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) constitute a commercialized lipolytic cosmetic ingredient obtained by enzymatic conjugation of tyrosol to long‐chain fatty acids and to enhance its skin diffusion. Nanodispersions of PHE were prepared by a green emulsion‐solvent evaporation process and dispersed in polyvinyl alcohol films. Raman imaging coupled to multivariate analysis was used to study the distribution of PHE in the films. Results: Nanodispersions of PHE combined with antioxidant vitamin E and stabilized by Pluronic® F127 were successfully prepared. The nanodispersions show a spherical shape and a hydrodynamic diameter close to 100 nm. Raman images analysis with multivariate approaches showed a very homogeneous distribution of PHE nanodispersions in the films compared to free PHE introduced as an ethanol solution. Conclusion: Nanodispersions of hydrophobic fatty acid‐based ingredients seem to be relevant method to introduce this type of ingredient in hydrophilic film matrix. The co‐suspension with vitamin E limits their degradation in time. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

OBJECTIVE: Waxes are used as structuring agents in lipsticks. There are a variety of waxes combined in a single lipstick to provide good stability, pleasant texture and good pay‐off. Due to a significant growth for natural, green and sustainable products, there is a constant search for alternatives to animal‐derived and petroleum‐derived ingredients. In this study, a green, non‐animalderived wax, namely long‐chain ketones (referred to as alkenones), sourced from marine microalgae was formulated into lipsticks and evaluated as a structuring agent. METHODS: Alkenones were used as a substitute for microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and candelilla wax, typical structuring agents. In total, 384 lipsticks were formulated: L1 (control, no alkenones), L2 (alkenones as a substitute for ozokerite), L3 (alkenones as a substitute for microcrystalline wax) and L4 (alkenones as a substitute for candelilla wax). Products were tested for hardness (bending force), stiffness, firmness (needle penetration), pay‐off (using a texture analyser and a consumer panel), friction, melting point and stability for 12 weeks at 25 and 45°C. RESULTS: Alkenones influenced each characteristic evaluated. In general, lipsticks with alkenones (L2‐L4) became softer and easier to bend compared to the control (L1). In terms of firmness, lipsticks were similar to the control, except for L4, which was significantly (P < 0.05) firmer. The effect on pay‐off was not consistent. L2 and L3 had higher pay‐off to skin and fabric than L1. In addition, L4 had the lowest amount transferred, but it still had the highest colour intensity on skin. Alkenones influenced friction (glide) positively; the average friction decreased for L2‐L4. The lowest friction (i.e. best glide) was shown in L4. Melting point of the lipsticks was lower when alkenones were present. Overall, L4, containing 7% of 4 alkenones in combination with microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and carnauba wax, was found to have the most desirable attributes, including ease of bending, high level of firmness, low pay‐off in terms of amount, high colour intensity on skin and low friction (i.e. better glide). Consumers preferred L4 the most overall. CONCLUSION: Results of this study indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, non‐animal and non‐petroleum‐derived choice as a structuring agent for lipsticks. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Photography can be a powerful tool for researching the skin. Moving outside the visible spectrum and into the ultra violet (UV) presents a unique set of challenges to the skin photographer because of the restrictions imposed by the equipment being used. This article discusses these challenges in relation to camera sensitivity, lens and filter transmission and lighting spectrum, with the aim of demystifying what is actually being captured when imaging skin. Methods: In addition to a discussion of existing data on the subject of camera sensor sensitivity, filter transmission and flash spectral analysis, transmission in the UV of a variety of camera lenses using a new method has been carried out. Results: Using the described approach, lens transmission between 280 and 420 nm of a range of lenses has been measured. Combining this with camera sensor sensitivity data and filter and light source characteristics, it has been possible to determine an overall, harmonized, spectral sensitivity curve for what is being imaged with a given setup. Conclusions: UV reflectance photography, while a powerful tool, is often misunderstood and misreported as to what is actually being imaged. By combining measurements on camera sensitivity, lens and filter transmission and light source spectra the researcher can more fully understand what is they are actually measuring, thereby enabling better communication with the consumer on what they are seeing and a more complete description for any claims support. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho‐social well‐being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There does not appear to have been any recent reviews about innovations in skin camouflaging techniques. Methods: Using the National Centre for Biotechnology Information PubMed database, a search was made for all studies published between 2000 and 2019 that met defined inclusion criteria. A total of seven relevant publications were identified. Results: Of the seven studies identified, skin camouflaging improved quality of life in three studies and reduced anxiety, depression and social isolation in others. Of the camouflaging methods used, liquidized simulated second skin technology (Microskin™) appears to look particularly promising. This method of colour matching and a spray/stippling application uses a technology that binds to the epidermis of the skin helping to overcome previous concerns about the colour, coverage and application of camouflage and masking bases. Two studies showed that this innovative mode of camouflaging raised confidence, feelings of happiness and social experiences in children and adolescents with burn scarring. Very few studies reported drawbacks of camouflaging techniques, with limited colour matches and 'itching' appearing to be the main shortcomings. New technologies now appear to be addressing these. Conclusion: Results show that there is wide variation in the quality and modes of skin camouflaging. Of the methods used, simulated second skin technology appears to be an important and effective therapy for individuals with cutaneous skin disorders. Training schemes along with increased awareness of this technique must now be communicated to medical professionals who come into contact with children and adults who could benefit physically, psychologically and socially from this therapy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Products with film‐forming effect, or 'second skin', which guarantees an immediate protective effect after application, is a highlight, especially when composed of natural ingredients. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the immediate film‐forming effect on skin of a gel and emulsion formulations added with Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa extracts through biophysical and skin imaging techniques, especially with the Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM). Methods: The measurements were done in the forearm region before (baseline) and 1 h after of application of the developed formulation and its control. The parameters related to the stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), cutaneous microrelief and morphological and structural characteristics of the epidermis were analysed through the following biophysical and skin imaging techniques: Corneometer® CM 825, Tewameter® TM 300, Visioscan® VC98 and Vivascope® 1500, respectively. A sensorial analysis was also performed to study how the formulations were perceived on the skin. Results: The obtained results showed that the active ingredient under study allows the film formation on the skin surface, leading to a reduction of TEWL and skin desquamation. The obtained images from RCM showed a reduction of furrows on the skin surface and a film formation after a single application of the formulations. However, these effects were more pronounced in the emulsion formulation, which suggests a synergistic effect of the active ingredient under study with the emollients of formulation composition. This result was also observed in the sensorial analysis, as both formulations added with the active substance were well evaluated. Conclusion: The presence of Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa extracts in the studied cosmetic formulations, enabled a film formation on a skin surface, bringing benefits as a reduction of transepidermal water loss and skin desquamation, as well as a furrows reduction and an improvement of stratum corneum after 1 h of application. Finally, the skin imaging techniques can be suggested as an excellent tool to evaluate a film‐forming effect of cosmetic formulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The main objective of this paper is to understand the rheological impact of rhamnolipids biosurfactant (mono/dirhamnolipids mixture, CCB) on a common personal care mixed surfactants system: anionic sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and zwitterionic cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). The ternary biosurfactant/surfactants mixtures were evaluated at three different formulation conditions. The experimental results can provide a formulation guideline when applying rhamnolipids in cosmetics and personal care products. Methods: Traditional mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and lower frequency rheological behaviour of ternary surfactant mixtures. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) was utilized to access rheological responses at high frequency regime. Structural parameters such as contour length, entanglement length and persistence length of wormlike micelles in the anionic/zwitterionic/biosurfactant mixtures can be extracted from the rheological data gathered by DWS. Results: Maxwellian type response was present in SLES/CAPB/CCB system which indicated the formation of wormlike micelle. Contour length of wormlike micelle formed by SLES/CAPB reduced from 445.8 to 88.37 nm with only 2 wt% addition of CCB. In the same system, viscosity decreased and shorter relaxation time were observed. Addition of sodium chloride built the viscosity of SLES/CAPB/CCB to an extent by screening charges between surfactant head groups. Highest viscosity of SLES/CAPB/CCB (10 wt%, 2wt% and 4wt% respectfully) was observed when sodium chloride concentration was at 4 wt%. In the same SLES/CAPB/CCB system, pH impacted the system's rheological response significantly. Due to the zwitterionic nature of CAPB, it became more cationic at lower pH while rhamnolipids became more nonionic. SLES still maintained its anionic nature at low pH and this promoted the interaction between CAPB and SLES. At lower pH, overall loss and storage modulus exhibited higher values while longer relaxation times were observed. Increase in micelles contour length under lower pH conditions were shown by the DWS data. Conclusion: This preliminary rheological and microstructure study of the complex biosurfactant/surfactants ternary systems revealed the effect of formulation conditions on the mixtures rheological responses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cosmetic treatments aim at improving skin appearance through vehicles of good sensory properties. Those vehicles are mainly emulsions and gels designed to deliver safe and effective compounds to skin. Creams and serums are widely used to achieve these goals, but recently a new type of formulation known as organogels triggered scientific attention, particularly in the design of both topical and cosmetic formulations. It has been established that the lipophilic nature of organogels makes it an excellent candidate for the delivery of cosmetic molecules through skin. In this review, we discuss the properties and characteristics of organogels and present the advantages of the application of these systems in cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Hyaluronic acid (HA) has been considered the gold standard ingredient for improving skin hydration and combating age‐related effects, however it is an inefficient polymer with inconsistent results partially due to its poor skin penetration, surface deposition, and rapid degradation. Herein we report the synthesis and in vitro characterization of a newly developed, topical super‐humectant with the goal of attracting and binding water molecules more efficiently than traditional, cosmetic‐grade forms of HA. Methods: A modified interpenetrating polymer network (IPN) was developed using three polymers into a three‐dimensional formation (3D3P) for entrapping HA and water. This 3D3P‐IPN functions as a super‐humectant, attracting and binding water molecules more efficiently than the traditional cosmetic‐grade forms of HA. We compare 3D3P‐IPN serum samples to a traditional commercial benchmark product of similar ingredients using microscopic analysis, rheology, Karl Fischer (KF) titration, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermal gravimetric analysis (TGA), and dynamic vapor sorption (DVS) techniques. Results: The 3D3P‐IPN samples appeared to bind water tighter than the benchmark sample as evidenced by maximum endpoints of endotherms occurring at significantly higher temperatures. The DVS results further confirm this speculation as the 3D3P‐IPN samples lost approximately 10% less water up to 35% RH than the benchmark. The 3D3P‐IPN samples also absorbed more water as the humidity level increased,demonstrating superior humectant properties. KF titration indicated that all three samples had similar water concentrations; however, TGA results demonstrated that the benchmark (a viscous, humectant‐rich hydrating masque) did not have much bound water. Conclusion: Through the synthesis of a 3D3P‐IPN using simplified methods, we were able to increase the water‐binding and HA‐delivery capabilities of a thin serum. This 3D3P‐IPN serum has potential to deliver more hydration to the skin's surface compared to traditional HA formulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Two studies were designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide‐containing moisturizing cream for the first time in humans. Methods: In both studies, healthy women were randomized to use two treatments, one for the left side of the body and one for the right, from three options: the test cream, a positive control or no treatment (use of standard cleanser only). Treatments were applied twice daily for 4 weeks to the face and forearms (Study 1) or the face only (Study 2). Instrumental and clinical skin assessments were performed by trained technicians. Study 1 involved tape stripping and a 5‐day no‐treatment ('regression') period at the end of the 4 weeks. Independent lay graders were asked to grade the skin texture of subjects in Study 2 from high‐resolution photographs. Results: In Study 1 (n = 66), the test cream significantly decreased the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values on the forearm, and in the cheek area of the face, relative to baseline and compared to no treatment, and increased skin Corneometer values. The improvements were partially retained during a subsequent 5‐day period of no treatment. Increases in TEWL values on skin subjected to tape stripping were significantly lower after 4 weeks of using the test cream compared to no treatment. In Study 2 (n = 72 subjects with visible signs of ageing), there was a favourable trend in the change from baseline of a skin roughness parameter, Ra, for the test cream compared to no treatment. There were statistically significant improvements in the Fitzpatrick wrinkle score compared to no treatment, decreases in TEWL and increased Corneometer values and Cutometer values (R5 elasticity parameter). Grading of high‐resolution images failed to detect the improvements in skin texture (defined as pores, smoothness and unevenness) for the test cream vs. no treatment. No treatment‐related serious or severe adverse events were reported. Conclusion: Twice daily application of the test cream over 4 weeks had beneficial effects on skin barrier function, moisturization, wrinkle dimensions and elasticity compared to no treatment. These studies provide proof‐of‐concept evidence and highlight the cosmetic benefit of the biomimetic lamellar cream formulation. Study registration: NCT03216265, NCT03180645. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This aim of this study is to prepare four novel oil-in-water creams from 100% naturally sourced oil ingredients such as jojoba, baobab and coconut oil, and compare the effect of the oils on the physico-chemical properties of the creams and their short- and long-term stability. Four 100 g each oil-in-water active containing creams and their controls (without the active ingredient) were formulated and stored in eight separate glass jars. The short-term stability of the creams was assessed via phase separation resistance, pH, microscopic size analysis, globule size, zeta potential, conductivity and microbial challenge evaluation after 8, 14 and 28 days, under three different storage temperature conditions (4 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C) and at ambient relative humidity. Model creams IA, IB, IIA, and IIB containing 1:1 of jojoba and baobab oil mix, all had good shelf-life or stability at the end of the 28 days after storage at 4 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C, compared to models IIIA, IVA and pairs. The long-term stability of creams stored at 25 °C for 28 days, was subsequently assessed using the Dynamic Vapor Sorption system. Model creams IB, IIB, IA and IIA showed the lowest percentage moisture loss or change in mass during a period of desorption steps. Therefore, the creams containing a mixture of jojoba and baobab oils are capable of retaining moisture easily for an extended period of time when compared to the creams containing jojoba and coconut oil or baobab and coconut oil combinations, thus they were proven to be the best products in terms of stability and quality. The stability ranking of the creams using the novel DVS method was in congruence with the results from the short-term stability experiments. This novel DVS method can, therefore, be generically applied in the cosmetic, food and pharmaceutical industries for the evaluation of the long-term stability of semisolids.

This study aimed to produce and characterize an oil in water (O/W) nanoemulsion containing Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill hydroglycolic extract, as well as evaluate its preliminary and accelerated thermal stability and moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing 0.5% of xanthan gum (FX) and 0.5% of xanthan gum and 1% of Opuntia ficus-indica Mill extract (FXE) were white, homogeneous and fluid in aspect. Both formulations were stable during preliminary and accelerated stability tests. FX and FXE presented a pH compatible to skin pH (4.5–6.0); droplet size varying from 92.2 to 233.6 nm; a polydispersion index (PDI) around 0.200 and a zeta potential from −26.71 to −47.01 mV. FXE was able to increase the water content of the stratum corneum for 5 h after application on the forearm. The O/W nanoemulsions containing 1% of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract presented suitable stability for at least for 60 days. Besides, this formulation was able to increase the water content of stratum corneum, showing its moisturizing efficacy.