Ethylated analogue of Zingerone: A new and eco‐respectful preservative in cosmetics.

Objective: This article describes the eco‐design of a new preservative in cosmetics based on bio‐inspiration of natural extracts from traditional medicines. In order to reach the multiple specification targets, various structures have been synthesized and evaluated to select the one demonstrating broad antimicrobial spectrum with favorable environmental profile and application potential to a wide variety of formulas. Methods: In order to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of the synthesized structures, the method of the challenge test consisting in an artificial contamination of the sample with collection microbial strains and evaluation of the number of revivable microorganisms was used to select the most promising candidate. Validation of its antimicrobial potential was later confirmed on Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria, yeast and mold with measurement of its Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) in comparison with known preservatives. Environmental impact assessment of the selected candidate was achieved with the help of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity tests performed according to appropriate Organization tes a strfor Economic Co‐operation and Development (OECD) and European Union (EU) guidelinesy. Results: Bio‐inspired from turmeric and ginger extracts, an ethylated analog of Zingerone (EZ) with the chemical name 4‐(3‐ethoxy‐4‐hydroxyphenyl)butan‐2‐one demonstrates the strongest activity on Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans. Moreover, EZ shows a solubility in water two times higher than that of Zingerone thus increasing its interest as a potential preservative. Finally, its assessment of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity in OECD‐EU tests with a favorable environmental profile confirms its unique interest and fully justifies its use in cosmetic formulas as an eco‐respectful preservative. Conclusion: Bio‐inspiration based on technologies without noteworthy side effects but also on eco‐design, particularly through the use of measures of potential environmental impact very upstream of a development, are two fundamental elements for the launching of new eco‐friendly cosmetic ingredients. This approach has thus validated the strong potential of EZ as a preservative of eco‐respectful formulas. The selection of EZ is also a very good example of the achievement of two key objectives targeted by cosmetic companies for the development of a novel active ingredient: environmental performance and technical performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]