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Purpose: The study explored the enhanced skin moisturizing capabilities and moisture retention effects achieved by forming a polyion complex using sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG), specifically chondroitin sulfate (CS), and amino acids (AA) such as glutamine (Q) and arginine (R). The overall hydration effect of this CS-AA complex was examined., Methods: After analyzing the CS-AA polyion complex structure using spectroscopic methods, the ex vivo moisture retention ability was assessed under dry conditions using porcine skin samples. Additionally, the efficacy of the CS-AA polyion complex in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improving skin hydration was evaluated on human subjects using a digital evaporimeter and a corneometer, respectively., Results: Validating a systematic reduction in particle size, the following order was observed: CS > CS/AA simple mixture > CS-AA complex based on dynamic light scattering (DLS) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM) analysis. Furthermore, observations revealed that the CS-AA complex exhibits negligible surface charge. Additionally, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) analysis demonstrated a distinct peak shift in the complex, confirming the successful formation of the CS-AA complex. Subsequently, the water-holding effect through porcine skin was assessed, revealing a notable improvement in moisture retention (weight loss) for the CS-Q complex: 40.6% (1 h), 20.5% (2 h), and 18.7% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Similarly, the CS-R complex demonstrated enhancements of 50.2% (1 h), 37.5% (2 h), and 33% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Furthermore, TEWL improvement efficacy on human skin demonstrated approximately 25% improvement for both the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex, surpassing the modest 12.5% and 18% improvements witnessed with water and glycerin applications, respectively. Finally, employing a corneometer, hydration changes in the skin were monitored over 4 weeks. Although CS alone exhibited nominal alterations, the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex showed a significant increase in moisture levels after 4 weeks of application., Conclusion: In this study, polyion complexes were successfully formed between CS, a sulfated GAG, and AA. Comparisons with glycerin, a well-known moisturizing agent, confirmed that the CS-AA complex exhibits superior moisturizing effects in various aspects. These findings suggest that the CS-AA complex is a more effective ingredient than CS or AA alone in terms of efficacy., (© 2024 The Author(s). Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Skin penetration of an active pharmaceutical ingredient is key to developing topical drugs. This penetration can be adjusted for greater efficacy and/or safety through the selection of dosage form. Two emerging dosage forms, cream-gel and gel-in-oil emulsion, were tested for their ability to deliver diclofenac into the skin, with the target of maximising skin retention while limiting systemic exposure. Prototypes with varying amounts of solvents and emollients were formulated and evaluated by in vitro penetration testing on human skin. Cream-gel formulas showed better skin penetration than the emulgel benchmark drug even without added solvent, while gel-in-oil emulsions resulted in reduced diffusion of the active into the receptor fluid. Adding propylene glycol and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether as penetration enhancers resulted in different diclofenac penetration profiles depending on the dosage form and whether they were added to the disperse or continuous phase. Rheological characterisation of the prototypes revealed similar profiles of cream-gel and emulgel benchmark, whereas gel-in-oil emulsion demonstrated flow characteristics suitable for massaging product into the skin. This study underlined the potential of cream-gel and gel-in-oil emulsions for adjusting active penetration into the skin, broadening the range of choices available to topical formulation scientists.

Background: Evaluating cleansers and moisturizers provides important information to guide clinicians in the recommendation of these products. This project was performed to visualize skin hydration via heatmap after the use of a gentle skin cleanser (GSC) and moisturizing lotion (ML)., Methods: Half-face, intra-individual open-label study in healthy volunteers. Cleanser was administered in a single application that was then wiped off the face. Moisturizing lotion was applied at least once-daily for one week. Hydration measurements were made at 30 pre-defined points on half of the face, at baseline, and 30 minutes post-application; an additional assessment at week 1 was made for the moisturizing lotion. Heatmaps were generated using Python programming software to interpolate hydration values to colors that were then superimposed onto the volunteer's facial image.  Results: Five subjects completed the cleanser assessments, and 5 subjects completed the 30-minute evaluation for the lotion, with 4 completing the week 1 assessment. There was a visible shift in skin hydration post-GSC application from values approximately in the 12-42 AU (arbitrary unit) range to 30-60 AU at 30 minutes. Similarly, there was a shift in hydration from baseline to 30 minutes that continued to increase through week 1 of ML use., Conclusions: This innovative heatmap data generation showed a clear, visual change in hydration over time. There was a visible shift in hydration values from baseline to 30 minutes after application of cleanser; hydration also improved after use of moisturizing lotion at 30 minutes and increased after week 1 application.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(6):463-465.     doi:10.36849/JDD.8221.

The targeted choice of the emollient of a cream determines its physicochemical properties and clinical effectiveness. This work researched the effects of emollient properties on the final characteristics and potential performance of oil-in-water dermatological creams. Seven emollients with different chemical characteristics and structures (alkane, triglyceride, ether, silicone, vegetable oils, and mineral oil) were tested in a model formulation. Early stability, pH, droplet size distribution, rheology, tackiness, adhesivity, spreadability, tribology, and release profile of a lipophilic substance model (in Franz cells, through a synthetic membrane, for six hours) were assessed. The creams had acid epicutaneous pH and a "shear-thinning" "solid-like" viscoelastic behavior. Among the seven emollients' properties, polarity, density, and viscosity were the most influential. Droplet parameters were the most impacted, pH and release were moderately affected, and the textural properties were lowly to moderately impacted. The emollient substitution in the model formulation affected the experimental parameters differently, allowing formulation optimization and tailoring its potential therapeutic performance regarding drug release, coadjutant effects, and dwell time on the skin. By looking at the creams' characteristics, it was possible to select the best-suited emollients for releasing a lipophilic drug, applying on painful skin, and formulation in wash-off products or leave-on protective barrier creams., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 The Author(s). Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Introduction: Dry skin is a hallmark of impaired skin barrier function. Moisturizers are a mainstay of treatment to help the skin retain moisture, and there is a high consumer demand for effective products. However, the development and optimization of new formulations are hampered due to lack of reliable efficacy measures using in vitro models., Methods: In this study, a microscopy-based barrier functional assay was developed using an in vitro skin model of chemically induced barrier damage to evaluate the occlusive activity of moisturizers., Results: The assay was validated by demonstrating the different effects on barrier function between humectant (glycerol) and occlusive (petrolatum). Significant changes in barrier function were observed upon tissue disruption, which was ameliorated by commercial moisturizing products., Conclusion: This newly developed experimental method may be helpful to develop new and improved occlusive moisturizers for the treatment of dry skin conditions., (© 2023 The Author(s). Published by S. Karger AG, Basel.)

Emollient oils are ubiquitous ingredients of personal care products, especially skin care and hair care formulations. They offer excellent spreading properties and give end-use products a soft, pleasant and non-sticky after-feel. Emollients belong to various petro- or bio-based chemical families among which silicone oils, hydrocarbons and esters are the most prominent. Silicones have exceptional physicochemical and sensory properties but their high chemical stability results in very low biodegradability and a high bioaccumulation potential. Nowadays, consumers are increasingly responsive to environmental issues and demand more environmentally friendly products. This awareness strongly encourages cosmetics industries to develop bio-based alternatives to silicone oils. Finding effective silicon-free emollients requires understanding the molecular origin of emollience. This review details the relationships between the molecular structures of emollients and their physicochemical properties as well as the resulting functional performances in order to facilitate the design of alternative oils with suitable physicochemical and sensory properties. The molecular profile of an ideal emollient in terms of chemical function (alkane, ether, ester, carbonate, alcohol), optimal number of carbons and branching is established to obtain an odourless oil with good spreading on the skin. Since none of the carbon-based emollients alone can imitate the non-sticky and dry feel of silicone oils, it is judicious to blend alkanes and esters to significantly improve both the sensory properties and the solubilizing properties of the synergistic mixture towards polar ingredients (sun filters, antioxidants, fragrances). Finally, it is shown how modelling tools (QSPR, COSMO-RS and neural networks) can predict in silico the key properties of hundreds of virtual candidate molecules in order to synthesize only the most promising whose predicted properties are close to the specifications., (Copyright © 2022 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The use of enzymatic catalysts is an alternative to chemical catalysts as they can help to obtain products with less environmental impact, considered sustainable within the concept of green chemistry. The optimization, kinetic, lipase reuse, and scale-up of enzymatic production of ethylene glycol oleate in the batch mode were carried out using the NS 88011 lipase in a solvent-free system. For the optimization step, a 2 3 Central Composite Design was used and the optimized condition for the ethylene glycol oleate production, with conversions above 99%, was at 70 °C, 600 rpm, substrates molar ratio of 1:2, 1 wt% of NS 88011 in 32 H of reaction. Kinetic tests were also carried out with different amounts of enzyme, and it showed that by decreasing the amount of the enzyme, the conversion also decreases. The lipase reuse showed good conversions until the second cycle of use, after which it had a progressive reduction reaching 83% in the fourth cycle of use. The scale-up (ninefold increase) showed promising results, with conversion above 99%, achieving conversions similar to small-scale reactions. Therefore, this work proposed an environmentally safe route to produce an emollient ester using a low-cost biocatalyst in a solvent-free system., (© 2020 International Union of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Inc.)

The breakdown of the epidermal barrier and consequent loss of skin hydration is a feature of skin aging and eczematous dermatitis. Few treatments, however, resolve these underlying processes to provide full symptomatic relief. In this study, we evaluated isosorbide di-(linoleate/oleate) (IDL), which was generated by esterifying isosorbide with sunflower fatty acids. Topical effects of IDL in skin were compared with those of ethyl linoleate/oleate, which has previously been shown to improve skin barrier function. Both IDL and ethyl linoleate/oleate downregulated inflammatory gene expression, but IDL more effectively upregulated the expression of genes associated with keratinocyte differentiation (e.g., KRT1, GRHL2, SPRR4). Consistent with this, IDL increased the abundance of epidermal barrier proteins (FLG and involucrin) and prevented cytokine-mediated stratum corneum degradation. IDL also downregulated the expression of unhealthy skin signature genes linked to the loss of epidermal homeostasis and uniquely repressed an IFN-inducible coexpression module activated in multiple skin diseases, including psoriasis. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial enrolling females with dry skin, 2% IDL lotion applied over 2 weeks significantly improved skin hydration and decreased transepidermal water loss (NCT04253704). These results demonstrate mechanisms by which IDL improves skin hydration and epidermal barrier function, supporting IDL as an effective intervention for the treatment of xerotic pruritic skin., (Copyright © 2021 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

The skin barrier is a multifaceted microenvironment, comprised not only of structural and molecular components that maintain its integrity, but also a lipid matrix comprising an equimolar ratio of cholesterol, free fatty acids, and ceramides. Lipid abnormalities induced by environmental or pathological stimuli are often associated with impaired skin barrier function and integrity. Incorporation of skin lipids in skincare formulations to help fortify barrier function has become widespread. While there are resources available to study the barrier, a comprehensive evaluation of skin models, from in situ to in vivo, that focus on alterations of the lipid content, seems to be lacking. This article reviews current methods to evaluate the skin lipid barrier and touches upon the significance of using such models within the cosmetic field to study formulations that incorporate barrier lipids. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):s10-16. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589B.

The human skin, particularly the stratum corneum, serves as a protective barrier against exogenous factors, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and pathogen invasions. The impact of UVR on skin cancer and photoaging has been extensively studied. However, the direct impact of UVR on skin barrier integrity under clinical settings remains poorly explored. Due to their benefits in reducing inflammation and promoting skin barrier repair, ceramide-containing formulations can provide added photoprotection benefits. In this study, the efficacy of a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizer were evaluated in preventing UV-induced skin surface barrier changes. Expert grading, instrumental, and tape-stripping assessments demonstrated that UVR induced erythema and hyperpigmentation and caused changes in skin cells surface morphological organization and maturation. Treatment with a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizing cream routine reduced erythema and hyperpigmentation, improved skin hydration, and maintained normal superficial skin cells morphology and turnover after UVR. Our results indicate that barrier-enforcing lipids formulations can provide additional benefits in patient’s daily routine by strengthening the barrier and improving skin health overall against chronic sun exposure. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):s29-35. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589E.

Objective: Product aesthetics and sensory performance can strongly influence a cosmetic product's acceptance by consumers. However, classic sensory analysis is time-consuming, expensive and does not provide information on the target group's preference. In the previous phase of this project, we had untrained consumers evaluate six cosmetic emulsions based on their aesthetics using a check-all-that-apply (CATA) survey. In this project, our goals were to quantitatively characterize the rheology and textural properties of the six cosmetic emulsions containing green, bio-derived emollients and identify statistical relationships between the consumers' description of products and the instrumental measurements., Methods: Six emulsions were prepared-three with olive oil and three with heptyl undecylenate as an emollient. Four sensory-like attributes, namely firmness, work of shear, stickiness and adhesiveness, were tested using a texture analyser. Rheological characterization included continuous flow testing and oscillatory measurements. Droplet size and stability were also evaluated. Statistical relationships were quantified between measurements in this study and sensory survey results published previously., Results: The textural and rheological results indicated that the emulsions were different-as designed. The texture and rheology measurements had analogous grouping outcomes to the consumers' discrimination. Emulsions 1 and 2 were the firmest, hardest to spread, stickiest and had the highest viscosity, while Emulsions 5 and 6 were the least firm, easiest to spread, less sticky than Emulsions 1 and 2, and had the lowest viscosity. Emulsions 3 and 4 fell in between the other two groups. Using olive oil instead of heptyl undecylenate as an emollient increased firmness, spreading, stickiness, viscosity and droplet size of the emulsions in every case-when comparing emulsions within each pair. All six emulsions had a shear-thinning behaviour. Viscosity and firmness directly correlated for the emulsions. Emulsions were visually stable at room temperature over the course of 6 months and viscosity remained relatively constant over this period also., Conclusion: Certain sensory attributes can be reliably predicted with instrumental measurements. Identifying and quantifying sensory-texture-rheology relationships can contribute to achieving appropriate product characteristics tailored to suit market needs., (© 2020 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Background: Emollients capable of restoring the skin barrier function would extend their role beyond basic maintenance therapy in atopic dermatitis (AD)., Objectives: Investigate the effect of a novel emollient plus cream (EC; Dermoflan®) on the skin barrier in vitro and in patients with mild-to-moderate AD., Methods: The effect of EC on the skin barrier recovery was evaluated using a tape-stripping (TS) model. After TS, organ cultures were treated with EC (undiluted or diluted 1:1 with water) and analyzed at 18-120 h using hematoxylin and eosin, Oil Red O, immunohistochemical, and immunofluorescent techniques. In a double-blind, randomized study, EC or placebo was applied once daily for 2 months to antecubital folds of the upper and lower limbs of patients with mild-to-moderate AD in clinical remission. Epidermal thickness, vascularization, and epidermal hydration were assessed by optical coherence tomography and corneometry, respectively, at baseline, and 1 and 2 months following treatment initiation., Results: Following TS, EC treatment significantly increased epidermal thickness and lipid content versus diluent in the skin organ culture, as well as claudin-1, involucrin, and caspase-14 expression, suggesting skin barrier repair. EC treatment also decreased keratin-16 expression and increased levels of Toll-like receptors 1 and 2 versus diluent, suggesting involvement in regulating the epidermal immune response. In 20 patients randomized 1:1 to EC or placebo, EC treatment at the elbow fold/popliteal fossa significantly decreased epidermal thickness after 2 months, and the number of blood vessels at the elbow fold after 1 and 2 months, versus placebo. EC significantly improved the skin hydration after 2 months versus baseline., Conclusions: This novel multi-action EC may help to restore epidermal homeostasis and improve the skin of patients with AD. Results indicate that this novel multi-action EC could be a valid adjuvant therapy in patients with AD. Key Message: Novel multi-action emollient cream helps to restore epidermal homeostasis and improves the skin affected by AD., (© 2021 S. Karger AG, Basel.)

Objective: Cosmetic emollients are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to 'soften' the skin and modulate formulation spreadability. Though emollients are commonly used, little is known about their effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC), which play a critical role in consumer perception of formulation efficacy. Accordingly, our objective was to provide new insights with a study involving fourteen cosmetic emollient molecules with widely varying structures, molecular weights, SC diffusivities, topological polar surface areas (TPSAs), viscosities and chemical functionalities., Methods: Mechanical stress in the SC was measured in vitro using a substrate curvature measurement technique. Stress development due to SC drying was measured before and after topical treatment with cosmetic emollients. Emollient diffusivity and alterations to lipid content in SC after treatment were measured via ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. The maximum penetration volume of emollient in SC was characterized to elucidate mechanisms underlying emollient effects on stress., Results: The application of all cosmetic emollients caused a reduction in SC mechanical stress under dehydrating conditions, and a linear correlation was discovered between emollient penetration volume and the degree of stress reduction. These molecules also induced increases in stress equilibration rate, signalling changes to SC transport kinetics. Stress equilibration rate increases linearly correlated with decreasing intensity of the νCH2 band, indicating a previously unknown interaction between cosmetic emollients and SC lipids. Stress and penetration volume results were rationalized in terms of a multi-parameter model including emollient molecular weight, diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity., Conclusion: We provide a new rational basis for understanding the effects of cosmetic emollient choice on biomechanical properties affecting SC barrier function and consumer perception. We demonstrate for the first time that emollients very likely reduce SC mechanical stress through their ability to take up volume when penetrating the SC, and how molecular weight, SC diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity are predictive of this ability. As cosmetic formulations continue to evolve to meet the needs of customers, emollient molecules can be selected that not only contribute to formulation texture and/or spreadability but that also leverage this novel connection between emollient penetration and SC biomechanics., (© 2020 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Although tattoo artists provide tattoo aftercare instructions to their clients, recommendations are often not cost-effective or supported by evidence. A 22-year-old man developed a pruritic red rash over his healing tattoo one week after receiving the tattoo. Although multiple queries were negative, the patient did note use of a scented lotion before the eruption. We determined that allergic contact dermatitis from the scented lotion caused scarring and premature fading of the new tattoo. Tattoo artists should recommend avoidance of scented lotions and instruct clients to care for their new tattoo like a wound in their aftercare instructions.

Twice-daily moisturization is recommended by international guidelines as the bedrock of the management of atopic dermatitis (AD). Moisturizers should be selected based on proven clinical effectiveness in improving the skin barrier and improving the symptoms of AD. We searched the PubMed database for clinical trials assessing daily moisturization for the treatment of AD published between 2006 and 2019. Studies had to assess the efficacy of commercially available moisturizers using objective measures of corneometry, transepidermal water loss, or incidence of flare as endpoints, and treatments had to be currently available to patients. Clinical studies showed that moisturization (typically twice daily) significantly improved the skin barrier in adults and children with AD. Longer-term flare studies showed that daily moisturization reduced the incidence of flares and extended the time between flares. Proactive moisturization of infants at high risk of developing AD may reduce its manifestation. Therapeutic moisturizers for AD are specifically formulated with ingredients that target symptoms of AD, such as itch, inflammation, or compromised skin barrier. The US FDA requires that any moisturizer available in the USA and claiming to treat AD must contain colloidal oatmeal. Healthcare providers can maximize compliance and outcomes by educating patients on the benefits of liberally applying a therapeutic moisturizer twice daily to support the skin barrier and help reduce the incidence of flares. Specific recommendations should be for clinically tested moisturizers evaluated using objective, validated skin assessments.

The human skin is a very complex living tissue, in a permanent evolution and self-renewing by constant lipids secretion. The characterization of this biological material is a major concern in dermo-cosmetic and pharmaceutics fields. Understanding the skin interaction with its environment, during application of skincare products, is consequently of genuine interest to better control the different phenomena occurring. In sensory language, the application of products on the skin is defined as the spreading behavior. Five O/W emulsions were formulated with different ratios of two emollients (isohexadecane and stearic acid). Complementary instrumental and sensory analysis of spreading behavior was carried out in vivo on human skin as well as in vitro on non-biological skin surface in order to investigate the impact of two emollients, and their mixtures in the spreadability and penetration of O/W emulsions. A first screening was made to link the physico-chemical properties (polarity, physical state and ratio) of emollients with the spreading behavior on human skin. Then, interesting parameters (the plateau value, its length and the increase of the friction value) from the tribological study on skin were considered to allow deepening the product/skin interactions after application of different emulsions and over time. In the last part of the study, an original method, using non-biological surfaces mimicking the human skin, was successfully tested with very good reproducibility of the spreading behavior. This original tool is of great interest to study the efficacy of new formulas on skin, but also for fundamental research and help performing standardized measurements as well as solving the logistic and safety problems of in vivo studies., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Background: Neonates and infants are susceptible to skin barrier disruption as their skin anatomically and functionally is still developing. The process of skin acidification plays a vital role in barrier maturation and the activation of enzymes involved in the extracellular processing of stratum corneum lipids. The current consensus paper explores challenges, and current treatment approaches in neonatal and infant normal and sensitive skin and the role of ceramides containing moisturizers. Methods: For this purpose, an expert panel of pediatric dermatologists and dermatologists discussed information from systematic literature searches, coupled with expert opinion and experience of the panel, to adopt eight statements. The consensus process consisted of a modified Delphi technique. Results: During the first years after birth, the neonatal and infant skin is more permeable to topical agents and, therefore, requires particular caution with topical skincare regimens. Mildly acidic or pH-neutral cleansers have benefits for neonates and infants. Skincare for neonates and infants should be safe, effective, and fragrance free as well as sensitizing agent-free. Additionally, the skincare should be pleasant to use, containing ingredients that benefit the lipid and water content of the SC, such as those products containing ceramides. Conclusion: Taking into consideration the maturation process of neonatal and infant skin, the application of moisturizers and cleansers containing barrier lipids may help maintain the protective skin barrier and soothe with long-term moisturizing benefits. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(8) 769-776: doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.5252 THIS ARTICLE HAD BEEN MADE AVAILABLE FREE OF CHARGE. PLEASE SCROLL DOWN TO ACCESS THE FULL TEXT OF THIS ARTICLE WITHOUT LOGGING IN. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. PLEASE CONTACT THE PUBLISHER WITH ANY QUESTIONS.

Background: Xerosis is a common problem among the elderly, characterized by dry-scaling erythema, fissuring, or pruritus, which could be treated by anti-inflammatory moisturizers without side effects of steroids., Aims: We aimed to investigate the efficacy of anti-inflammatory moisturizer (MAS062D lotion) vs hydrophilic cream for the improvement of dry and barrier function skin in xerosis patients., Methods: A split site, triple-blinded, randomized, controlled trial was conducted in the elderly with moderate to severe xerosis, who received the 28-day twice daily application of MAS062D lotion and hydrophilic cream on the assigned shins. The evaluations on day 0, 14, and 28 were performed using clinical assessment, skin hydration by corneometer, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and biometric assessment., Results: There were 24 Thai elderly patients, of whom 87.5% were female (mean age = 58.04 years and mean xerosis severity scale (XSS) = 4.83). Both treatments revealed similar statistically significant improvement in XSS (P < .001). Interestingly, MAS062D lotion-treated side remarkably showed improvement of skin hydration compared with hydrophilic-treated side for 26.86 ± 7.94 vs 25.84 ± 5.1, 41.24 ± 6.92 vs 20.96 ± 6.8, 50.49 ± 8.2 vs 21.75 ± 8.29 at baseline, day 14, and 28, respectively (P-value < .001). Moreover, MAS062D lotion significantly yielded greater decrease in TEWL measurement and more erythema improvement than hydrophilic cream (P-value < .001). No serious adverse effects were observed with either treatment., Conclusion: The MAS062D lotion could potentially be an efficacious treatment for improvement of xerosis in the elderly, which is also safe and refrains from steroid side effects., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: The stratum corneum plays an important protective physiological role in providing a barrier to preventing skin desiccation and penetration of external agents. Emollients are used commonly to improve barrier function and skin hydration., Aims: The primary objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of an emollient, V0034CR cream, and its active ingredients, to restore the cutaneous barrier. Secondary objectives included assessment of the moisturizing activity of each product and tolerance. The study was not designed to evaluate therapeutic benefit., Methods: In this randomized, double-blind, 4-arm crossover, clinical pharmacology study, the full emollient V0034CR, its vehicle formulation alone, or with glycerol, or petrolatum, was applied to the forearms of healthy volunteers (n = 51) with dry skin (Kligman score of 2 or 3). Cutaneous permeability by Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and skin moisture content by corneometry were serially measured for 12 hours following application. An analysis of variance with repeated measures was performed on the evolution of TEWL and corneometry., Results: V0034CR emollient significantly reduced mean TEWL compared to vehicle (P = .0018) and vehicle + glycerol (P = .0001) and significantly increased mean corneometry scores compared to vehicle (P < .0001) and vehicle + petrolatum (P < .0001)., Conclusions: The emollient V0034CR presented combined effects, with the petrolatum component improving skin barrier function, with a reduction in TEWL, and the glycerol component improving skin hydration., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

The idea of increasing the performance of sunscreens without adding more UV-filters is very attractive. Early studies reported an influence of solvents on the absorbing properties of UV-absorbers which was shown to be connected to the solvent polarity. However, the polarity differed a lot between tested solvents and most were unsuitable UV-filter solubilizers. The aim of the present study was to focus exclusively on emollients pertinent for sunscreens and investigate their impact on the performance of UV-filter combinations. The UV absorbance of Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate was measured in suncare relevant emollients comprising C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-caprylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate. The wavelength of maximum absorbance (λmax) and specific extinction at λmax (E1,1 (λmax) ) were assessed for each UV-filter - emollient system. The performance of market relevant UV-filter combinations based on the studied UV-filters was simulated for each emollient with a computational method using the absorbance values measured for each UV-filter - emollient system. The difference in polarity of emollients led to a 2-3 nm bathochromic shift and a variation of the E1,1 (λmax) ranging from 4 to 20% for tested UV-filters. The emollient type showed nearly no influence on the sun protection factor (SPF) of market relevant UV-filter combinations probably due to a different influence an emollient shows on the UVB filters resulting in cancelling of the corresponding effect. Conversely, for all UV-filter combinations the UVA protection decreased with a decrease in the emollient polarity. Whilst the SPF was not impacted by standardly used cosmetic oils, the results advocate to use polar emollients to optimize the UVA protection. This is of advantage since polar emollients better dissolve crystalline UV-filters. From tested emollients, Dibutyl Adipate performed the best for both SPF and PPD factors., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest None., (Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Roller compaction is a continuous dry granulation process, in which powder is compressed by two counter-rotating rollers. During this process, the powder feeding to the compaction zone has a significant effect on product quality. This work investigates the flow of powder from the feeding zone to the compaction zone using online infrared thermography as Process Analytical Technology (PAT) which is achieved via a specially built cheek plate (side-sealing). The powder undergoes increasing stress from the rollers when it is approaching the minimum gap of the compaction zone, which can be indirectly monitored by measuring the powder temperature. The online monitoring of the powder flow during the roller compaction helps locate the nip region and identify the effect of different roller forces on the temperature of the feeding powder. The results show that the nip region can be identified by analysing the temperature profiles from the feeding to the compaction zone. The increase of roller force results in an increasing slope of the powder temperature profile. In addition, offline X-ray CT measurement results show the increase of density along the feeding to the compaction direction, which is compared with Johanson theory under different roller forces in the roller compaction process., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

During the past decades the understanding and prospects of enzyme-catalysed reactions have been massively widened and there are a number of implemented large-scale enzymatic processes mainly based in the use of commercial biocatalysts. As it might happen that the same process can be successfully carried out by different commercial lipases, the election of the biocatalyst must rely on productivity and economic considerations. This work presents productiveness and direct operation cost evaluation as a key tool for the selection between two commercial lipase catalysts, the versatile but expensive Novozym ®  435 and a much more economical option, Lipozyme ®  TL IM, in the synthesis of spermaceti, a mixture of emollient esters with cosmetic applications. Proving that Novozym ®  435 leads to minimum savings of 10% with respect to the cheapest immobilized derivative, biocatalyst cost does not appear to be the major contribution to the economics of the processes under study, due to their great capacity to be recovered and reused. At laboratory scale, the biggest economic investment is caused by substrates, which can be massively reduced at industrial scale by using bulk reagents. In such case, energy cost may be the major contribution to the process economy. This work proposes an optimized process ready to be scaled-up in order to accurately determine the energetic requirements of the possible industrial enzymatic synthesis.

Acute and chronic inflammatory skin diseases are frequent in childhood and may be hereditary or acquired. In this context, ichthyosis is rather a symptom than a defined disease as scaling is accompanying a number of disorders and is mostly consequence of a disrupted skin barrier. Ichthyosis is the basic pathogenic trait of atopic dermatitis but on the other side describes a group of rare hereditary diseases. These may only affect the skin or comprise several internal symptoms as well. Psoriasis is another scaling inflammatory skin disease with classical sharply demarcated erythematosquamous plaques and with a distinct immunogenetic background. It comprises several clinical subsets, some of which are characteristic for children and demanding in both diagnostics and therapy. Comorbid diseases point towards a systemic inflammatory response and require ample, often systemic treatment. Both ichthyosis and psoriasis may be topically treated including emollients with and without humectants as well as active agents like corticosteroids, vitamin D derivatives, and calcineurin inhibitors. In moderate to severe diseases, systemic treatment should be applied using methotrexate, ciclosporin, fumarates, or biologics. Their use should be critically discussed yet if necessary and indicated be applied to avoid chronic physical and psychological damage to the affected children.

Complex behavior of 33 commercial lotions was investigated in order to identify correlations between laboratory instrumental measurements and sensory attributes of these products. Sensory attributes were evaluated by trained panelists. Six attributes were identified as potentially related to rheology, which belong to three main sensory categories: appearance, pickup, and rub out. Potential rheological predictors were extracted from the data of rotational rheometry. Yield stress and instantaneous viscosity maximum (IVM) were determined in stress ramp. Alternative definitions of yield stress based on step-shear and oscillatory strain sweeps were also considered along with linear viscoelastic moduli, G' and G″. Statistical analysis has shown all these definitions of yield stress and IVM are in fact closely correlated and that IVM is the best overall predictor of most attributes although G'/G″ ratio also is significant for rub out attributes. However, integrity of shape, the main appearance attribute, is even better predicted by an imitative slump-like test in which image analysis is used to quantify sample spreading on a flat surface., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Skin moisturizing is advocated to take care of the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD). However, many patients stop using moisturizers in the summer because of excessive sweating and high humidity., Objectives: To examine the efficacy of a moisturizing gel containing a pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract, which enhances epidermal ceramide synthesis of patients with mild AD in the summer., Methods: We performed a single-blinded 4-week clinical trial of body care on 44 Japanese subjects who had mild AD. They had not applied any moisturizer on their body in the summer. Twenty-seven subjects used the moisturizing gel containing a pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract twice a day and the 17 other subjects did not use any moisturizer. Prior to and at the end of weeks 2 and 4, the skin conditions of each subject were evaluated., Results: During the test period, the atmospheric temperature increased and skin dryness and scaling significantly improved with or without application of the moisturizing gel. However, the improvement in dryness of the treated group was significantly higher than that of the nontreated group. Erythema and itchiness were significantly improved only in the treated group. The skin hydration on the forearm increased significantly only in the treated group. Accompanying those improvements, the quality of life of the subjects, evaluated by Skindex-16 ® , was significantly improved., Conclusion: The usage of a moisturizer containing a pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract is effective for care of the skin of AD subjects even in the summer., (© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Many moisturisers contain sun protection factors (SPF) equivalent to those found in sunscreens. However, there is a lack of research into how SPF moisturiser application compares to sunscreens in terms of coverage achieved and protection afforded. Previously we demonstrated that users incompletely covered their eyelid regions during routine sunscreen application. Here, we aimed to determine if SPF moisturiser users also displayed these tendencies. A study population of 84 participants (22 males, 62 females, age 18-57) were exposed to UV radiation and photographed using a tripod mounted UV sensitive DSLR camera on two separate visits. At visit one, images were acquired before and after applying either SPF30 sunscreen or moisturiser, then at visit two the study was repeated with the other formulation. Images were processed for facial landmark identification followed by segmentation mapping of hue saturation values to identify areas of the face that were/were not covered. Analyses revealed that application of moisturiser was significantly worse than sunscreen in terms area of the whole face missed (11.1% missed with sunscreen compared to 16.6% for SPF moisturiser p<0.001 paired t-test). This difference was primarily due to decreased coverage of the eyelid regions (14.0% missed with sunscreen, 20.9% moisturiser, p<0.001). Analysis of a post-study questionnaire revealed participants to be unaware of their incomplete coverage. Secondary analyses revealed improved coverage in males (p = 0.05), and, with moisturiser only, in participants with darker skin tones (p = 0.02). Together these data indicate that, despite potential advantages in terms of increased frequency of application of moisturiser, the areas of the face that are at higher cancer risk are likely not being protected, and that participants are unaware that they are at risk. As such, alternative sun-protection strategies should be promoted., Competing Interests: The authors have declared that no competing interests exist.

Background: Green formulations with herbal oils and natural nonionic emulsifiers project several advantages, like favorable viscosity profiles, for use as topical applicants. Their inherent constituents also protect the skin against free radical damage and lipid peroxidation. They may hence serve as alternatives for synthetic chemical-based formulations., Objective: Formulation and characterization of Helianthus annuus-alkyl polyglucoside cream for topical application has been attempted. Its inherent sun protection factor has been measured and compared with a similar commercial formulation. It is well known that the internal network of liquid crystals of such emulsifiers can store depot water to maintain moisturization for long time, thus bestowing beneficial dermatological effects., Methods: Physicochemical characterization of the oil was done. The formulation process for the cream was optimized for reduced particle size with respect to ultrasonication conditions. It was characterized extensively; its inherent sun protection factor was measured and compared with a similar commercial cream., Results: The cream was smooth, creamy, and showed non-Newtonian thixotropic behavior and good shear-thinning features with an SPF of 6.3 that compared favorably with a similar commercial cream., Conclusions: The cream may serve as a good topical applicant and also help in skin hydration due to the inherent nature of the emulsifier. It may protect against UV radiations due to the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory nature of the natural oil constituents. It may be used as a low-SPF formulation., (© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Staphylococcus aureus, a leading cause of serious human infections in both healthcare and community settings, is increasingly difficult to control due to expanding resistance to multiple antibiotic classes. Methicillin-resistant S. aureus (MRSA) strains have disseminated on a global scale and are associated with adverse patient outcomes, increased hospital stays, and significant economic costs to the healthcare system. A proximal step in S. aureus infection is colonization of the nasal mucosa, and effective strategies to decolonize high risk patients to reduce the risk of invasive infection and nosocomial spread represent an important clinical priority. With rising resistance to mupirocin, the most common antibiotic utilized for nasal MRSA decontamination, we are examining the use of pure molecular iodine (I 2 )-based formulations for this indication. Recently, an iodophor formulation of povidone-iodine (PVP-I) has shown significant promise for nasal MRSA decontamination by swabbing the anterior nares of patients in hospital settings, but the I 2 concentration in this treatment is less than 0.01% of total iodine species present and like all providone-iodine formulations causes skin staining. Here we determine that a novel non-staining formulation of I 2 combined with the safe organic emollient glycerin delivers high local concentrations of the active antimicrobial entity (I 2 ) with minimal evaporative loss, exhibits activity at ∼1 part per million against MRSA and other important Gram-positive and -negative human pathogens. This formulation for I 2 topical delivery produced similar reductions in mean bacterial burden and was associated with fewer treatment failures (<2-logfold reduction) than PVP-I in a murine model of MRSA nasal decontamination. Formulations of I 2 in glycerin emollient merit further exploration as topical disinfectants for human medical indications., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Extemporaneous topical compounds for neuropathic pain offers an alternative or adjunct approach to existing therapies for patients. Assigning evidence-based beyond-use dating prior to dispensing topical medications is a legal requirement by pharmacy governing bodies. The purpose of this study was to utilize a validated stability-indicating high-performance liquid chromatography assay to determine beyond-use dating of topical amitriptyline in three different bases (Lipoderm Base, PLO Gel Mediflo 30, Emollient Cream) at three different temperatures [room temperature (25°C), refrigeration (4°C), and high temperature (40°C)]. Amitriptyline was stable after 90 days at room temperature in both Lipoderm Base and PLO Gel Mediflo 30. However, it was not stable at 40°C in Emollient Cream, irrespective of storage conditions., (Copyright© by International Journal of Pharmaceutical Compounding, Inc.)

Moisturizers provide significant benefit in dermatology – as adjuvant therapy for many clinical conditions, as a key player in anti-aging regimens, and as a core component in maintaining healthy skin barrier function. Although they have been a mainstay for decades, lotions and creams are no longer formulated with a one-size-fits-all approach, where thickness was the primary cue for efficacy. In fact, moisturizer design today has become an art as well as a science. Product efficacy, aesthetics, and packaging are all engineered in a variety of ways, to create an expansive market of products that meet many consumer needs. The addition of specific types of functional ingredients can make a noteworthy difference as well. This article will explore the myriad approaches for moisturizer development and debunk some of the long-standing myths that have pervaded the marketplace. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(1 Suppl):s89-95

This study was undertaken to prepare films by solvent evaporation method comprising well-known polymers in order to investigate their potential for buccal suitability. Mucoadhesive films were manufactured using different polymers such as ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose as well as carboxymethyl cellulose. Buccal films were evaluated in regards of mucoadhesiveness, swelling and physico-chemical properties. Furthermore rheological measurement and adhesion study were carried out on the buccal porcine mucosa. Moreover, allantoin as humectant was incorporated and trans-mucosal water loss was determined. The results showed that physico-chemical, buccal adhesive and swelling properties varied depending on the composition of the polymers. The findings indicated films containing allantoin to be suitable for buccal application. In completion, adhesive films are appropriate and promising formulations in the treatment of various disease in the intraoral cavity., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The pH plays an important physiological role in nature and humans. pH varies from 1 to 8 in human organs with tight regulation in blood and epithelia of barrier organs. The physiological pH of the stratum corneum is 4.1-5.8 and several mechanisms contribute to its formation: filaggrin degradation, fatty acid content, sodium-hydrogen exchanger (NHE1) activation and melanosome release. First, the acidic pH of the stratum corneum was considered to present an antimicrobial barrier preventing colonization (e.g. by Staphylococcus aureus and Malassezia). Later on, it was found that the pH influences skin barrier function, lipid synthesis and aggregation, epidermal differentiation and desquamation. Enzymes of ceramide metabolism (e.g. β-glucocerebrosidase or acid sphingomyelinase) as well as proteases (e.g. chymotryptic enzyme or cathepsin D linked to epidermal differentiation and desquamation) are regulated by the pH. Experimental disruption of the physical barrier leads to an increase of pH, returning to normal levels only after many hours. Inflammatory skin diseases and diseases with an involvement of the epidermis exhibit a disturbed skin barrier and an increased pH. This is known for atopic dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis, ichthyosis, rosacea and acne, but also for aged and dry skin. Normalizing the pH by acidification through topical treatment helps to establish a physiological microbiota, to repair skin barrier, to induce epidermal differentiation and to reduce inflammation., (© 2018 Japanese Dermatological Association.)

An important aspect of the biomechanical behaviour of the stratum corneum (SC) is the drying stresses that develop with water loss. These stresses act as a driving force for damage in the form of chapping and cracking. Betasitosterol is a plant sterol with a structure similar to cholesterol, a key component in the intercellular lipids of the outermost layer of human skin, the SC. Cholesterol plays an important role in stabilizing the SC lipid structure, and altered levels of cholesterol have been linked with SC barrier abnormalities. Betasitosterol is currently applied topically to skin for treatment of wounds and burns. However, it is unknown what effect betasitosterol has on the biomechanical barrier function of skin. Here, by analysing the drying stress profile of SC generated during a kinetics of dehydration, we show that betasitosterol, in combination with two emollient molecules, isocetyl stearoyl stearate (ISS) and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (GTEH), causes a significant modulation of the drying stress behaviour of the SC by reducing both the maximal peak stress height and average plateau of the drying stress profile. Raman spectra analyses demonstrate that the combination of betasitosterol with the two emollients, ISS and GTEH, allows a high water retention capacity within the SC, while the lipid conformational order by increasing the amount of trans conformers. Our study highlights the advantage of combining a biomechanical approach together with Raman spectroscopy in engineering a suitable combination of molecules for alleviating dryness and dry skin damage., (© 2018 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: The choice of prescribed emollients is usually based on cost and patient preference. Differences in formulations can affect user acceptability., Aim: To compare the physical performance, user acceptability and various product design features of two emollient gels that are prescribed in the UK and alleged to be therapeutically interchangeable because their formulations are described as having the same contents of oily ingredients., Results: We found that here are in fact significant measurable differences between the structure and performance of the two formulations, which materially affect their user acceptability. These differences are attributed to the use of different types of gelling agents and other ingredients of differing grades/quality and concentrations, and probably due to the formulations being made by different manufacturing processes. We also identified other product design features that are important to user appeal, including the type of container in which the formulations are presented, the type of dispensing devices provided, and the nature and form of the supplied user instructions., Conclusion: Patients and prescribers should be aware that there can be important differences in performance and user appeal between emollients, even between products that, superficially, may appear to be very similar. These important performance aspects should be characterized for new emollient introductions to encourage better informed product selection., (© 2018 The Authors. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of British Association of Dermatologists, North American Clinical Dermatologic Society and St Johns Dermatological Society.)

Purpose: To examine the impact of oral moisturizer type and application time on antifungal effects., Materials and Methods: Seventeen oral moisturizers (7 liquids, 10 gels) and amphotericin B (AMPH-B) were tested. Antifungal effects were evaluated with newly opened moisturizer samples (0 hour) and with samples incubated for 8 hours to simulate contact during sleep. Candida albicans samples (10 8 cells/ml) were placed into cylindrical holes in 50% trypticase soy agar plates. Antifungal effects were evaluated based on growth-inhibitory zones after 24 hours. Equal quantities of moisturizers showing growth-inhibitory zones were mixed as additional samples. The effects of moisturizer type and application time on growth-inhibitory zones were evaluated with ANOVA. Growth-inhibitory zone sizes were compared with multiple comparisons., Results: Growth-inhibitory zones were found with two liquids, one gel, moisturizer mixtures, and AMPH-B. Significant differences in antifungal effects were found among different moisturizer types and between the 0- and 8-hour groups. The growth-inhibitory zones of the 8-hour group were significantly smaller than those of the 0-hour group. In both the 0- and 8-hour groups, the growth-inhibitory zones of the liquid-gel mixtures were significantly larger than those of other moisturizer types, and were the same size as those of AMPH-B at two concentrations (1.25 and 2.5 μg/ml). Growth-inhibitory zones of individual moisturizers and liquid-liquid mixtures were the same size as those of lower AMPH-B concentrations (0.16, 0.31, and 0.63 μg/ml)., Conclusion: Our findings suggest that mixing liquid and gel moisturizers improves their antifungal efficiency., (© 2016 by the American College of Prosthodontists.)

Purpose: A study was conducted with a new topical panthenol-containing emollient (NTP-CE) to investigate the efficacy and safety of a 3-month maintenance treatment in infants and children with stabilized mild atopic dermatitis (AD)., Methods: After the stabilization phase (up to 2 months) using a corticosteroid-free topical medical device, 108 subjects (aged 2-49 months) with a SCORing AD (SCORAD) on the target area of <5, were randomized to receive NTP-CE (N = 52) or reference emollient (N = 56) twice-daily for ∼3 months. SCORAD scores, occurrence of flares, and tolerability were assessed at regular intervals., Results: In both groups, local SCORAD decreased during the study with a mean change from baseline (=end of stabilization phase) of -1.2 ± 1.3 (NTP-CE) and -1.0 ± 1.9. Kaplan-Meier analysis provided success rates (i.e. proportion of subjects without flares at study end) of 96 and 77% for the NTP-CE and reference group, respectively (p =.083, log-rank test). Mean time to flare-up was 47 days (range: 29-65) in the NTP CE group and 50 days (6-100). Study products were well tolerated., Conclusions: Our results indicate that NTP-CE is efficacious and safe when used for maintenance treatment of mild childhood AD.

Importance: Because moisturizer use is critical for the prevention and treatment of numerous dermatological conditions, patients frequently request product recommendations from dermatologists., Objective: To determine the product performance characteristics and ingredients of best-selling moisturizers., Design and Setting: This cohort study involved publicly available data of the top 100 best-selling whole-body moisturizing products at 3 major online retailers (Amazon, Target, and Walmart). Products marketed for use on a specific body part (eg, face, hands, eyelids) were excluded., Main Outcomes and Measures: Pairwise comparisons of median price per ounce on the basis of marketing claims (eg, dermatologist recommended, fragrance free, hypoallergenic) and presence of ingredients represented in the North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG) series were conducted using Wilcoxon rank sum tests. The effect of vehicle type (eg, ointment, lotion, cream, butter) was assessed using the Kruskal-Wallis test. Cross-reactors and botanicals for fragrances were derived from the American Contact Dermatitis Society's Contact Allergen Management Program database., Results: A total of 174 unique best-selling moisturizer products were identified, constituting 109 713 reviews as of August 2016. The median price per ounce was $0.59 (range, $0.10-$9.51 per ounce) with a wide range (9400%). The most popular vehicles were lotions (102 [59%]), followed by creams (22 [13%]), oils (21 [12%]), butters (14 [8%]), and ointments (3 [2%]). Only 12% (n = 21) of best-selling moisturizer products were free of NACDG allergens. The 3 most common allergens were fragrance mix (n = 87), paraben mix (n = 75), and tocopherol (n = 74). Products with the claim "dermatologist recommended" had higher median price per ounce ($0.79; interquartile range [IQR], $0.56-$1.27) than products without the claim ($0.59; IQR, $0.34-$0.92). Products with the claim "phthalate free" had higher median price per ounce ($1.38; IQR, $0.86-$1.63) than products without the claim ($0.59; IQR, $0.35-$0.91). Lotions (median, $0.49; IQR, $0.31-0.68) were statistically less expensive per ounce than butters (median, $1.20; IQR, $0.76-$1.63), creams (median, $0.80; IQR, $0.69-$1.25) and oils (median, $1.30; IQR, $0.64-$2.43). For products with a claim of "fragrance free," 18 (45%) had at least 1 fragrance cross-reactor or botanical ingredient. Products without any ingredients in the NACDG (median, $0.83; IQR, $0.47-$1.69) were not statistically more expensive per ounce than products with 1 or more allergens (median, $0.60; IQR, $0.35-$1.06)., Conclusions and Relevance: Best-selling moisturizers vary widely by price and product characteristics. Given the lack of readily available comparison data on moisturizer efficacy, dermatologists should balance consumer preference, price, and allergenicity in their recommendations.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 244 plant-derived fatty acid oils as used in cosmetics. Oils are used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for their skin conditioning, occlusive, emollient, and moisturizing properties. Since many of these oils are edible, and their systemic toxicity potential is low, the review focused on potential dermal effects. The Panel concluded that the 244 plant-derived fatty acid oils are safe as used in cosmetics.

The study focuses on the impact of structural and physicochemical properties of emollients on their spreadability. Fifty-three emollients, among which esters, silicones, vegetable and mineral oils, have been characterized. Their viscosity, surface tension, density and spreadability have been measured. Vitro-skin ® , an artificial skin substitute, was used as an artificial porous substrate to measure spreadability. Two different methods have been selected to characterize spreadability, namely contact angle and spreading value. Dynamic contact angle measurements showed that emollient spreadability is first governed by spontaneous spreading and that, in a second phase, absorption and migration into the porous substrate becomes the driver of the extension of the spreading area. Statistical analysis of physicochemical and spreading value data revealed that viscosity has a major impact on the spreading behavior of emollients whatever their chemical type. A special emphasis was placed on the ester family in which chemical diversity is very wide. The results highlighted a difference between "high viscosity esters" for which viscosity is the main factor impacting spreadability and "low viscosity esters" for which structural variations (mono/diester, saturated/unsaturated chain, linear/branched chain) have to be considered in addition to viscosity. Linear regressions were used to express spreading value as a function of viscosity for each of the four emollient families tested (esters, silicones, vegetable and mineral oils). These regressions allowed the development of reliable predictive models as a powerful tool for formulators to forecast spreadability of emollients., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Purpose: Two studies were conducted with a new topical panthenol-containing emollient (NTP-CE) to investigate the skin-moisturizing effect in healthy adults and tolerability in healthy infants., Methods: In Study 1 (N = 44), a single skin application of NTP-CE was performed followed by a 4-week twice-daily application. Skin hydration and stratum corneum (SC) water content change (using Raman spectroscopy) were measured. In the 4-week Study 2 (N = 65, aged 3-25 months), NTP-CE tolerability was assessed using a 5-point scoring system; skin hydration was determined in a subset (N = 21)., Results: In Study 1, mean AUC 0 - 24 h for skin capacitance change from baseline was 302.03 i.u. with NTP-CE and -15.90 i.u. in control areas (p < .001). With NTP-CE (at 4 h), the water content within the upper SC part was reduced (-45.10 vs. -13.39 g/cm 2 , p = .013) and the water gradient increased (0.51 vs. 0.11 g/cm 4 , p = .036), indicating relocation of water into deeper layers. In Study 2, there was no statistically significant change from baseline in mean cutaneous tolerability scores. At days 7, 14, and 28, skin hydration had increased by 42%, 54%, and 49%, respectively (all p < .001)., Conclusions: Single and prolonged NTP-CE usage is associated with sustained and deep skin moisturization. NTP-CE is well tolerated by healthy infants.

A male driver was checked during a traffic stop. A blood sample was collected 35min later and contained 7.3ng/mL THC, 3.5ng/mL 11-hydroxy-THC and 44.6ng/mL 11-nor-9-carboxy-THC. The subject claimed to have used two commercially produced products topically that contained 1.7ng and 102ng THC per mg, respectively. In an experiment, three volunteers (25, 26 and 34 years) applied both types of salves over a period of 3days every 2-4h. The application was extensive (50-100cm 2 ). Each volunteer applied the products to different parts of the body (neck, arm/leg and trunk, respectively). After the first application blood and urine samples of the participants were taken every 2-4h until 15h after the last application (overall n=10 urine and n=10 blood samples, respectively, for each participant). All of these blood and urine samples were tested negative for THC, 11-hydroxy-THC and 11-nor-9-carboxy-THC by a GC-MS method (LoD (THC)=0.40ng/mL; LoD (11-hydroxy-THC)=0.28ng/mL; LoD (THC-COOH)=1.6ng/mL;. LoD (THC-COOH in urine)=1.2ng/mL). According to our studies and further literature research on in vitro testing of transdermal uptake of THC, the exclusive application of (these two) topically applied products did not produce cannabinoid findings in blood or urine., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Background: Eczema is a chronic skin disease characterised by dry skin, intense itching, inflammatory skin lesions, and a considerable impact on quality of life. Moisturisation is an integral part of treatment, but it is unclear if moisturisers are effective., Objectives: To assess the effects of moisturisers for eczema., Search Methods: We searched the following databases to December 2015: Cochrane Skin Specialised Register, CENTRAL, MEDLINE, Embase, LILACS, the GREAT database. We searched five trials registers and checked references of included and excluded studies for further relevant trials., Selection Criteria: Randomised controlled trials in people with eczema., Data Collection and Analysis: We used standard Cochrane methodological procedures., Main Results: We included 77 studies (6603 participants, mean age: 18.6 years, mean duration: 6.7 weeks). We assessed 36 studies as at a high risk of bias, 34 at unclear risk, and seven at low risk. Twenty-four studies assessed our primary outcome 'participant-assessed disease severity', 13 assessed 'satisfaction', and 41 assessed 'adverse events'. Secondary outcomes included investigator-assessed disease severity (addressed in 65 studies), skin barrier function (29), flare prevention (16), quality of life (10), and corticosteroid use (eight). Adverse events reporting was limited (smarting, stinging, pruritus, erythema, folliculitis).Six studies evaluated moisturiser versus no moisturiser. 'Participant-assessed disease severity' and 'satisfaction' were not assessed. Moisturiser use yielded lower SCORAD than no moisturiser (three studies, 276 participants, mean difference (MD) -2.42, 95% confidence interval (CI) -4.55 to -0.28), but the minimal important difference (MID) (8.7) was unmet. There were fewer flares with moisturisers (two studies, 87 participants, RR 0.40, 95% CI 0.23 to 0.70), time to flare was prolonged (median: 180 versus 30 days), and less topical corticosteroids were needed (two studies, 222 participants, MD -9.30 g, 95% CI -15.3 to -3.27). There was no statistically significant difference in adverse events (one study, 173 participants, risk ratio (RR) 15.34, 95% CI 0.90 to 261.64). Evidence for these outcomes was low quality.With Atopiclair (three studies), 174/232 participants experienced improvement in participant-assessed disease severity versus 27/158 allocated to vehicle (RR 4.51, 95% CI 2.19 to 9.29). Atopiclair decreased itching (four studies, 396 participants, MD -2.65, 95% CI -4.21 to -1.09) and achieved more frequent satisfaction (two studies, 248 participants, RR 2.14, 95% CI 1.58 to 2.89), fewer flares (three studies, 397 participants, RR 0.18, 95% CI 0.11 to 0.31), and lower EASI (four studies, 426 participants, MD -4.0, 95% CI -5.42 to -2.57), but MID (6.6) was unmet. The number of participants reporting adverse events was not statistically different (four studies, 430 participants, RR 1.03, 95% CI 0.79 to 1.33). Evidence for these outcomes was moderate quality.Participants reported skin improvement more frequently with urea-containing cream than placebo (one study, 129 participants, RR 1.28, 95% CI 1.06 to 1.53; low-quality evidence), with equal satisfaction between the two groups (one study, 38 participants, low-quality evidence). Urea-containing cream improved dryness (investigator-assessed) more frequently (one study, 128 participants, RR 1.40, 95% CI 1.14 to 1.71; moderate-quality evidence) with fewer flares (one study, 44 participants, RR 0.47, 95% CI 0.24 to 0.92; low-quality evidence), but more participants in this group reported adverse events (one study, 129 participants, RR 1.65, 95% CI 1.16 to 2.34; moderate-quality evidence).Three studies assessed glycerol-containing moisturiser versus vehicle or placebo. More participants in the glycerol group noticed skin improvement (one study, 134 participants, RR 1.22, 95% CI 1.01 to 1.48; moderate-quality evidence), and this group saw improved investigator-assessed SCORAD (one study, 249 participants, MD -2.20, 95% CI -3.44 to -0.96; high-quality evidence), but MID was unmet. Participant satisfaction was not addressed. The number of participants reporting adverse events was not statistically significant (two studies, 385 participants, RR 0.90, 95% CI 0.68 to 1.19; moderate-quality evidence).Four studies investigated oat-containing moisturisers versus no treatment or vehicle. No significant differences between groups were reported for participant-assessed disease severity (one study, 50 participants, RR 1.11, 95% CI 0.84 to 1.46; low-quality evidence), satisfaction (one study, 50 participants, RR 1.06, 95% CI 0.74 to 1.52; very low-quality evidence), and investigator-assessed disease severity (three studies, 272 participants, standardised mean difference (SMD) -0.23, 95% CI -0.66 to 0.21; low-quality evidence). In the oat group, there were fewer flares (one study, 43 participants, RR 0.31, 95% CI 0.12 to 0.7; low-quality evidence) and less topical corticosteroids needed (two studies, 222 participants, MD -9.30g, 95% CI 15.3 to -3.27; low-quality evidence), but more adverse events were reported (one study, 173 participants; Peto odds ratio (OR) 7.26, 95% CI 1.76 to 29.92; low-quality evidence).All moisturisers above were compared to placebo, vehicle, or no moisturiser. Participants considered moisturisers more effective in reducing eczema (five studies, 572 participants, RR 2.46, 95% CI 1.16 to 5.23; low-quality evidence) and itch (seven studies, 749 participants, SMD -1.10, 95% CI -1.83 to -0.38) than control. Participants in both treatment arms reported comparable satisfaction (three studies, 296 participants, RR 1.35, 95% CI 0.77 to 2.26; low-quality evidence). Moisturisers led to lower investigator-assessed disease severity (12 studies, 1281 participants, SMD -1.04, 95% CI -1.57 to -0.51; high-quality evidence) and fewer flares (six studies, 607 participants, RR 0.33, 95% CI 0.17 to 0.62; moderate-quality evidence), but there was no difference in adverse events (10 studies, 1275 participants, RR 1.03, 95% CI 0.82 to 1.30; moderate-quality evidence).Topical active treatment combined with moisturiser was more effective than active treatment alone in reducing investigator-assessed disease severity (three studies, 192 participants, SMD -0.87, 95% CI -1.17 to -0.57; moderate-quality evidence) and flares (one study, 105 participants, RR 0.43, 95% CI 0.20 to 0.93), and was preferred by participants (both low-quality evidence). There was no statistically significant difference in number of adverse events (one study, 125 participants, RR 0.39, 95% CI 0.13 to 1.19; very low-quality evidence). Participant-assessed disease severity was not addressed., Authors' Conclusions: Most moisturisers showed some beneficial effects, producing better results when used with active treatment, prolonging time to flare, and reducing the number of flares and amount of topical corticosteroids needed to achieve similar reductions in eczema severity. We did not find reliable evidence that one moisturiser is better than another.

Eucerit, now more commonly known as Eucerin, was a revolutionary emulsion developed more than 100 years ago that is still popular and in common use today. The initial formulation is still the basis for a relevant global product line that holds significant market share today. The concept for Eucerin was originally developed in Germany by Dr Isaac Lifschütz, who helped develop Eucerin, meaning "beautiful wax," in 1898. The ointment was very smooth, allowing Eucerin to develop as a stable emulsion. Eucerin was revolutionary and outperformed all of its predecessors in emulsion stability, moisturizing ability, its ability to resist degradation, and its cost-effectiveness. 1 .

Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is one of the most common chronic inflammatory skin diseases with serious impact on quality of life. β-Glucans are natural substances with potent immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory activity., Methods: In a multicentre open split-body study, we studied the effect of Imunoglukan P4H® cream in a group of 105 patients with AD (39 males, 37%). Evaluation of subjective (visual analogue scale, VAS) and objective (EASI score, eczema area and severity index) characteristics of AD was carried out., Results: In total, 80 patients (76.2%) completed the study. Topical β-glucan application resulted in the significant improvement of both objective and subjective symptoms of AD. On the application side, significant decline in the number of days with AD exacerbation and its severity was observed. Moreover, the subjects experienced decline of pruritus on the β-glucan half of the body (VAS score: 1.68 vs. 1.95, p < 0.001). During the study, the continual and significant decline of EASI scores on the site of β-glucan application was observed (V4: 1.57 vs. 1.85, p < 0.001). The preparation was in general well tolerated., Conclusions: This is the first study evaluating and confirming the potential use of β-glucan-based cream as a supportive complementary therapy of atopic dermatitis.