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Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2004. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 109 (2004): C01027, doi:10.1029/2003JC001877., Vertical flow structure and turbulent dissipation in the swash zone are estimated using cross-shore fluid velocities observed on a low-sloped, fine-grained sandy beach [Raubenheimer, 2002] with two stacks of three current meters located about 2, 5, and 8 cm above the bed. The observations are consistent with an approximately logarithmic vertical decay of wave orbital velocities within 5 cm of the bed. The associated friction coefficients are similar in both the uprush and downrush, as in previous laboratory results. Turbulent dissipation rates estimated from velocity spectra increase with decreasing water depth from O(400 cm2/s3) in the inner surf zone to O(1000 cm2/s3) in the swash zone. Friction coefficients in the swash interior estimated with the logarithmic model and independently estimated by assuming that turbulent dissipation is balanced by production from vertical shear of the local mean flow and from wave breaking are between 0.02 and 0.06. These values are similar to the range of friction coefficients (0.02–0.05) recently estimated on impermeable, rough, nonerodible laboratory beaches and to the range of friction coefficients (0.01–0.03) previously estimated from field observations of the motion of the shoreward edge of the swash (run-up)., This research was supported by ONR and NSF.

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2005. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 110 (2005): C05019, doi:10.1029/2004JC002541., Observations of shear waves, alongshore propagating meanders of the mean alongshore current with periods of a few minutes and alongshore wavelengths of a few hundred meters, are compared with model predictions based on numerical solutions of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The model (after Özkan-Haller and Kirby (1999)) assumes alongshore homogeneity and temporally steady wave forcing and neglects wave-current interactions, eddy mixing, and spatial variation of the (nonlinear) bottom drag coefficient. Although the shapes of observed and modeled shear wave velocity spectra differ, and root-mean-square velocity fluctuations agree only to within a factor of about 3, aspects of the cross-shore structure of the observed (∼0.5–1.0 m above the seafloor) and modeled (vertically integrated) shear waves are qualitatively similar. Within the surf zone, where the mean alongshore current (V) is strong and shear waves are energetic, observed and modeled shear wave alongshore phase speeds agree and are close to both V and C lin (the phase speed of linearly unstable modes) consistent with previous results. Farther offshore, where V is weak and observed and modeled shear wave energy levels decay rapidly, modeled and observed C diverge from C lin and are close to the weak alongshore current V. The simulations suggest that the alongshore advection of eddies shed from the strong, sheared flow closer to shore may contribute to the offshore decrease in shear wave phase speeds. Similar to the observations, the modeled cross- and alongshore shear wave velocity fluctuations have approximately equal magnitude, and the modeled vorticity changes sign across the surf zone., This research was supported by the Office of Naval Research, the National Oceanographic Partnership Program, and the National Science Foundation.

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2004. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 109 (2004): C01031, doi:10.1029/2002JC001761., Alongshore propagating meanders of the mean alongshore current in the surf zone called shear waves have periods of a few minutes and wavelengths of a few hundred meters. Here shear wave properties are estimated with arrays of current meters deployed for 4 months within 300 m of the shoreline of a sandy beach. Shear wave velocity fluctuations are approximately horizontally isotropic, with root mean square values between 10 and 40% of the mean (3-hour-averaged) alongshore current V. Cross-shore variations of the time-averaged shear wave momentum flux are consistent with shear wave energy generation close to shore where the breaking wave-driven mean alongshore current V and current shear Vx are strong and with shear wave energy dissipation and transfer back to the mean flow farther offshore where V and Vx are weak. In case studies where V is a narrow jet near the shoreline the observed strong decay of shear wave energy levels seaward of the jet, and the cross-shore and alongshore structure of shear waves within the jet, are similar to predictions based on the linearly unstable modes of the observed V. Shear wave energy levels also are high in a marginally unstable case with a strong, but weakly sheared, V., This research was supported by the Office of Naval Research, the National Ocean Partnership Program and the National Science Foundation.

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007): C10009, doi:10.1029/2007JC004227., The propagation of infragravity waves (ocean surface waves with periods from 20 to 200 s) over complex inner shelf (water depths from about 3 to 50 m) bathymetry is investigated with field observations from the southern California coast. A wave-ray-path-based model is used to describe radiation from adjacent beaches, refraction over slopes (smooth changes in bathymetry), and partial reflection from submarine canyons (sharp changes in bathymetry). In both the field observations and the model simulations the importance of the canyons depends on the directional spectrum of the infragravity wave field radiating from the shoreline and on the distance from the canyons. Averaged over the wide range of conditions observed, a refraction-only model has reduced skill near the abrupt bathymetry, whereas a combined refraction and reflection model accurately describes the distribution of infragravity wave energy on the inner shelf, including the localized effects of steep-walled submarine canyons., Funding was provided by the Office of Naval Research and the National Science Foundation.

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2006. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 111 (2006): C12007, doi:10.1029/2006JC003539., Nonlinear energy transfers with sea and swell (frequencies 0.05–0.40 Hz) were responsible for much of the generation and loss of infragravity wave energy (frequencies 0.005–0.050 Hz) observed under moderate- and low-energy conditions on a natural beach. Cases with energetic shear waves were excluded, and mean currents, a likely shear wave energy source, were neglected. Within 150 m of the shore, estimated nonlinear energy transfers to (or from) the infragravity band roughly balanced the divergence (or convergence) of the infragravity energy flux, consistent with a conservative energy equation. Addition of significant dissipation (requiring a bottom drag coefficient exceeding about 10−2) degraded the energy balance., Funding was provided by the Office of Naval Research, the National Science Foundation, the Izaak Walton Killam Foundation, and the Natural Sciences and Engineering Research Council of Canada.

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 113 (2008): C07025, doi:10.1029/2007JC004514., The effect of alongshore variations in the incident wavefield on wave-driven setup and on alongshore flows in the surfzone is investigated using observations collected onshore of a submarine canyon. Wave heights and radiation stresses at the outer edge of the surfzone (water depth ≈2.5 m) varied by up to a factor of 4 and 16, respectively, over a 450 m alongshore distance, resulting in setup variations as large as 0.1 m along the shoreline (water depth ≈0.3 m). Even with this strong alongshore variability, wave-driven setup was dominated by the cross-shore gradient of the wave radiation stress, and setup observed in the surfzone is predicted well by a one-dimensional cross-shore momentum balance. Both cross-shore radiation stress gradients and alongshore setup gradients contributed to the alongshore flows observed in the inner surfzone when alongshore gradients in offshore wave heights were large, and a simplified alongshore momentum balance suggests that the large [O(1 kg/(s2 m)] observed setup-induced pressure gradients can drive strong [O(1 m/s)] alongshore currents., Funding was provided by the Office of Naval Research and the National Science Foundation.

Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2006. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 36 (2006): 629-635, doi:10.1175/JPO2890.1., Previous field observations indicate that the directional spread of swell-frequency (nominally 0.1 Hz) surface gravity waves increases during shoreward propagation across the surf zone. This directional broadening contrasts with the narrowing observed seaward of the surf zone and predicted by Snell’s law for bathymetric refraction. Field-observed broadening was predicted by a new model for refraction of swell by lower-frequency (nominally 0.01 Hz) current and elevation fluctuations. The observations and the model suggest that refraction by the cross-shore currents of energetic shear waves contributed substantially to the observed broadening., Funding was provided by the Office of Naval Research, the National Science Foundation, and the National Ocean Partnership Program.

Decisions about recreational beach closures would be enhanced if better estimates of surfzone contaminant transport and dilution were available. In situ methods for measuring fluorescent Rhodamine WT dye tracer in the surfzone are presented, increasing the temporal and spatial resolution over previous surfzone techniques. Bubbles and sand suspended by breaking waves in the surfzone interfere with in situ optical fluorometer dye measurements, increasing the lower bound for dye detection (~ 1 ppb) and reducing (quenching) measured dye concentrations. Simultaneous turbidity measurements are used to estimate the level of bubble and sand interference and correct dye estimates. After correction, root-mean-square dye concentration errors are estimated to be < 5% of dye concentration magnitude, thus demonstrating the viability of in situ surfzone fluorescent dye measurements. The surfzone techniques developed here may be applicable to other environments with high bubble and sand concentrations (e.g., cascading rivers and streams)., Published in Water Air Soil Pollution Journal v204 p103-115. ISSN 0049-6979.

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007): C02003, doi:10.1029/2006JC003549., Setup, the increase in the mean water level associated with breaking waves, observed between the shoreline and about 6-m water depth on an ocean beach is predicted well by a model that includes the effects of wave rollers and the bottom stress owing to the mean flow. Over the 90-day observational period, the measured and modeled setup are correlated (squared correlation above 0.59), and agree within about 30%. Although rollers may affect setup significantly on beaches with large amplitude (several meters high) sandbars and may be important in predicting the details of the cross-shore profile of setup, for the data discussed here, rollers have only a small effect on the amount of setup. Conversely, bottom stress (calculated using eddy viscosity and undertow formulations based on the surface dissipation, and assuming that the eddy viscosity is uniform throughout the water column) significantly affects setup predictions. Neglecting bottom stress results in underprediction of the observed setup in all water depths, with maximum underprediction near the shoreline where the observed setup is largest., Funding was provided by the Office of Naval Research, the National Science Foundation, and the Army Research Office.

The long-term goals are to understand and model the transformation of surface gravity waves propagating across the nearshore to the beach, the corresponding wave-driven circulation, and the associated evolution of surfzone morphology., Prepared in collaboration with Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA. Additional ONR contract nos. N00014-02-1-0415, N00014-04-1-0667, and N00014-05-1-0754. The original document contains color images.

Author Posting. © Elsevier B.V., 2006. This is the author's version of the work. It is posted here by permission of Elsevier B.V. for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Coastal Engineering 53 (2006): 817-824, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.04.003., The 25-m onshore migration of a nearshore sandbar observed over a 5-day period near Duck, NC is simulated with a simplified, computationally efficient, wave-resolving singlephase model. The modeled sediment transport is assumed to occur close to the seabed and to be in phase with the bottom stress. Neglected intergranular stresses and fluid-granular interactions, likely important in concentrated flow, are compensated for with an elevated (relative to that appropriate for a clear fluid) model roughness height that gives the best fit to the observed bar migration. Model results suggest that when mean-current-induced transport is small, wave-induced transport leads to the observed onshore bar migration. Based on the results from the simplified phase-resolving model, a wave-averaged, energetics-type model (e.g., only moments of the near-bottom velocity field are required) with different friction factors for oscillatory and mean flows is developed that also predicts the observed bar migration. Although the assumptions underlying the models differ, the similarity of model results precludes determination of the dominant mechanisms of sediment transport during onshore bar migration., Supported by the Office of Naval Research, the National Science Foundation, the Army Research Office, and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Coastal Ocean Institute.

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2006. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Geophysical Research Letters 33 (2006): L05601, doi:10.1029/2005GL025514., The strong tidal modulation of infragravity (200 to 20 s period) waves observed on the southern California shelf is shown to be the result of nonlinear transfers of energy from these low-frequency long waves to higher-frequency motions. The energy loss occurs in the surfzone, and is stronger as waves propagate over the convex low-tide beach profile than over the concave high-tide profile, resulting in a tidal modulation of seaward-radiated infragravity energy. Although previous studies have attributed infragravity energy losses in the surfzone to bottom drag and turbulence, theoretical estimates using both observations and numerical simulations suggest nonlinear transfers dominate. The observed beach profiles and energy transfers are similar along several km of the southern California coast, providing a mechanism for the tidal modulation of infragravity waves observed in bottom-pressure and seismic records on the continental shelf and in the deep ocean., Support was provided by ONR and NSF.

Author Posting. © The Authors, 2005. This is the author's version of the work. It is posted here by permission of Elsevier B. V. for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Marine Geology 216 (2005): 51-57, doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2005.01.005., Estimates of the heights of large (0.1-0.4 m heights and 1-10 m horizontal lengths) migrating bedforms on a sandy beach made with fixed, single-point altimeters are similar to heights estimated from profiles across the bedforms made with altimeters mounted on an amphibious vehicle that traversed the surf zone. Unlike many profiling systems, the robust, fixed altimeters can measure bedforms in bubbly, sediment-laden surfzone waters nearly continuously, including during storms, thus allowing investigation of the relationships between bedform heights and near-bottom velocities to be extended to a wide range of wave conditions. The fixed-altimeter observations of migrating bedforms suggest a sandy surfzone seafloor is not always smooth during energetic conditions with strong mean currents and large wave-orbital velocities., Funding was provided by the Office of Naval Research, the Army Research Office, the National Research Council, and the National Science Foundation.

Nonlinear energy transfers with sea and swell (frequencies 0.05–0.40 Hz) were responsible for much of the generation and loss of infragravity wave energy (frequencies 0.005–0.050 Hz) observed under moderate- and low-energy conditions on a natural beach. Cases with energetic shear waves were excluded, and mean currents, a likely shear wave energy source, were neglected. Within 150 m of the shore, estimated nonlinear energy transfers to (or from) the infragravity band roughly balanced the divergence (or convergence) of the infragravity energy flux, consistent with a conservative energy equation. Addition of significant dissipation (requiring a bottom drag coefficient exceeding about 10−2) degraded the energy balance.

Previous field observations indicate that the directional spread of swell-frequency (nominally 0.1 Hz) surface gravity waves increases during shoreward propagation across the surf zone. This directional broadening contrasts with the narrowing observed seaward of the surf zone and predicted by Snell’s law for bathymetric refraction. Field-observed broadening was predicted by a new model for refraction of swell by lower-frequency (nominally 0.01 Hz) current and elevation fluctuations. The observations and the model suggest that refraction by the cross-shore currents of energetic shear waves contributed substantially to the observed broadening.

The long-term goals are to understand the transformation of surface gravity waves propagating across the nearshore to the beach, the corresponding wave-driven circulation, and the associated evolution of surfzone morphology. The objective of the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX) is to understand the effect of complex continental-shelf bathymetry on surface gravity waves and on the breaking-wave-driven circulation onshore of the irregular bathymetry. Primary objectives this year were quality control processing of all the data in anticipation of public release on 1 January 2006, and analysis of infragravity wave reflections and bathymetric changes. Additional objectives of our research are to test hypotheses for nearshore waves, currents, and morphological change with previously obtained observations., Additional ONR contract N00014-05-1-0753. Prepared in collaboration with the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego, La Jolla.

The infragravity wave (periods between roughly 20 and 200 s) energy balance in shallow, nearshore waters is believed to be effected by generation by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, shoreline reflection, and refractive trapping. Observations obtained with alongshore oriented arrays of current meters or pressure gauges have been previously used to identify concentrations of energy at the frequency-alongshore wavenumbers of refractively trapped edge waves, but seaward and shoreward propagating waves were not differentiated. Surfzone dissipation theoretically limits edge wave growth, and a different analysis (using the approximation of shore-normal propagation) shows that the energy flux of shoreward propagating infragravity waves decreases owing to surfzone dissipation. Here an estimator is developed that yields the alongshore wavenumber-frequency spectra of seaward and shoreward propagating waves, using the WKB approximation and observations from an alongshore-oriented array of pressure and velocity sensors. Example spectra, estimated using data from the spatially sparse and relatively short SandyDuck arrays, suggests that strong dissipation of shoreward propagating infragravity waves occurs over a wide range of along shore wavenumbers, effectively suppressing the excitation of edge wave modes., Published in the Journal of Geophysical Research v110 2005. Sponsored in part by the NSF.

Observations of shear waves, alongshore propagating meanders of the mean alongshore current with periods of a few minutes and alongshore wavelengths of a few hundred meters, are compared with model predictions based on numerical solutions of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The model assumes alongshore homogeneity and temporally steady wave forcing and neglects wave-current interactions, eddy mixing, and spatial variation of the (nonlinear) bottom drag coefficient. Although the shapes of observed and modeled shear wave velocity spectra differ, and root-mean-square velocity fluctuations agree only to within a factor of about 3, aspects of the cross-shore structure of the observed and modeled (vertically integrated) shear waves are qualitatively similar., Published in Journal of Geophysical Research, v110 nC05019 p1-12, 2005. Prepared in cooperation with Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA. Prepared in collaboration with Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA. Sponsored in part by the National Science Foundation (NSF).

Observations of shear waves, alongshore propagating meanders of the mean alongshore current with periods of a few minutes and alongshore wavelengths of a few hundred meters, are compared with model predictions based on numerical solutions of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The model (after Özkan-Haller and Kirby (1999)) assumes alongshore homogeneity and temporally steady wave forcing and neglects wave-current interactions, eddy mixing, and spatial variation of the (nonlinear) bottom drag coefficient. Although the shapes of observed and modeled shear wave velocity spectra differ, and root-mean-square velocity fluctuations agree only to within a factor of about 3, aspects of the cross-shore structure of the observed (∼0.5–1.0 m above the seafloor) and modeled (vertically integrated) shear waves are qualitatively similar. Within the surf zone, where the mean alongshore current (V) is strong and shear waves are energetic, observed and modeled shear wave alongshore phase speeds agree and are close to both V and C lin (the phase speed of linearly unstable modes) consistent with previous results. Farther offshore, where V is weak and observed and modeled shear wave energy levels decay rapidly, modeled and observed C diverge from C lin and are close to the weak alongshore current V. The simulations suggest that the alongshore advection of eddies shed from the strong, sheared flow closer to shore may contribute to the offshore decrease in shear wave phase speeds. Similar to the observations, the modeled cross- and alongshore shear wave velocity fluctuations have approximately equal magnitude, and the modeled vorticity changes sign across the surf zone.

Estimates of the heights of large (0.1-0.4 m heights and 1-10 m horizontal lengths) migrating bedforms on a sandy beach made with fixed, single-point altimeters are similar to heights estimated from profiles across the bedforms made with altimeters mounted on an amphibious vehicle that traversed the surf zone. Unlike many profiling systems, the robust, fixed altimeters can measure bedforms in bubbly, sediment-laden surfzone waters nearly continuously, including during storms, thus allowing investigation of the relationships between bedform heights and near-bottom velocities to be extended to a wide range of wave conditions. The fixed-altimeter observations of migrating bedforms suggest a sandy surfzone seafloor is not always smooth during energetic conditions with strong mean currents and large wave-orbital velocities.

The long-term goals are to understand the transformation of surface gravity waves propagating across the nearshore to the beach, the corresponding wave-driven circulation, and the associated evolution of surfzone morphology. The objective of the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX) is to understand the effect of complex continental-shelf bathymetry on surface gravity waves and on the breaking-wave-driven circulation onshore of the irregular bathymetry. A primary objective this year was execution of the observational phase of NCEX. Additional objectives of our research are to test hypotheses for nearshore waves, currents, and morphological change with previously obtained observations. Our approach is to test hypotheses by comparing model predictions with waves, currents, and morphological evolution observed on natural beaches., Prepared in collaboration with the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego, La Jolla, CA. Additional contract no. N00014-02-1 0415.

Alongshore propagating meanders of the mean alongshore current in the surf zone called shear waves have periods of a few minutes and wavelengths of a few hundred meters. Here shear wave properties are estimated with arrays of current meters deployed for 4 months within 300 m of the shoreline of a sandy beach. Shear wave velocity fluctuations are approximately horizontally isotropic, with root mean square values between 10 and 40% of the mean (3-hour-averaged) alongshore current V. Cross-shore variations of the time-averaged shear wave momentum flux are consistent with shear wave energy generation close to shore where the breaking wave-driven mean alongshore current V and current shear Vx are strong and with shear wave energy dissipation and transfer back to the mean flow farther offshore where V and Vx are weak. In case studies where V is a narrow jet near the shoreline the observed strong decay of shear wave energy levels seaward of the jet, and the cross-shore and alongshore structure of shear waves within the jet, are similar to predictions based on the linearly unstable modes of the observed V. Shear wave energy levels also are high in a marginally unstable case with a strong, but weakly sheared, V.

The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into shoreward and seaward propagating components. Seaward of the surf zone, shoreward propagating infragravity waves are amplified by nonlinear interactions with groups of sea and swell, and the shoreward infragravity energy flux increases in the onshore direction. In the surf zone, nonlinear phase coupling between infragravity waves and groups of sea and swell decreases, as does the shoreward infragravity energy flux, consistent with the cessation of nonlinear forcing and the increased importance of infragravity wave dissipation. Seaward propagating infragravity waves are not phase coupled to incident wave groups, and their energy levels suggest strong infragravity wave reflection near the shoreline. The cross-shore variation of the seaward energy flux is weaker than that of the shoreward flux, resulting in cross-shore variation of the squared infragravity reflection coefficient (ratio of seaward to shoreward energy flux) between about 0.4 and 1.5.

Four months of moored current, pressure, temperature, conductivity, wave, and wind observations on the North Carolina shelf indicate three dynamically distinct regions: the surf zone, the inner shelf between the surf zone and the 13-m isobath, and the mid shelf. In the surf zone the along-shelf momentum balance is between the cross-shelf gradient of the wave-radiation stress and the bottom stress. The linear drag coefficient in the surf zone is about 10 times larger than seawards of the surf zone. On the inner shelf the along-shelf momentum balance is also frictional; the along-shelf wind stress and pressure gradient are balanced by bottom stress. In the cross-shelf momentum balance, the pressure gradient is the superposition of roughly equal contributions from the Coriolis force (geostrophy) and wave setdown from shoaling, unbroken surface gravity waves. At mid shelf the along-shelf momentum balance is less frictional and hence flow accelerations are important. The cross-shelf momentum balance is predominantly geostrophic because the greater depth and smaller bottom slope at mid shelf reduces the importance of wave setdown. The cross-shelf density gradient is in thermal wind balance with the vertical shear in the along-shelf flow in depths as shallow as 10 m. The dominant along-shelf momentum balances provide a simple estimate of the depth-averaged along-shelf current in terms of the measured forcing (i.e. wind stress, wave radiation stress divergence, and along-shelf pressure gradient) that reproduces accurately the observed cross-shelf variation of the depth-averaged along-shelf current between the surf zone and midshelf., Published in the Journal of Geophysical Research, v104 nC8 p18,205-18,226, Aug 1999.

The long-term goals are to understand the transformation of surface gravity waves propagating across the nearshore to the beach, the corresponding wave-driven circulation, and the associated evolution of surfzone morphology. The FY98 objectives were to obtain field observations on a natural beach to develop and test hypotheses about the: (1) transformation of surface waves across the nearshore and surf zone; (2) generation and spatial variation of wave-driven setup and near-bottom circulation; (3) evolution of the nearshore bathymetry in response to waves and circulation. An additional objective is to provide data supporting other SandyDuck studies of wave transformation, circulation, sediment transport, and acoustic properties., See also ADM002252. Sponsored in part by ONR grants N00014-97-1-0232, N00014-95-1-0085, N00014-97-1-0621 and N00014-98-1-0473. Prepared in cooperation with Scripps Inst. of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA.

The one-dimensional, time-averaged (over many wave periods) alongshore momentum balance between forcing by wind and breaking waves and the bottom stress is examined with field observations spanning a wide range of conditions on a barred beach. Near-bottom horizontal currents were measured for 2 months at 15 locations along a cross-shore transect extending 750 m from the shoreline to 8-m water depth. The hourly averaged bottom stress was estimated from observed currents using a quadratic drag law. The wave radiation stress was estimated in 8-m depth from an array of pressure sensors, and the wind stress was estimated from an anemometer at the seaward end of a nearby pier. The combined wind and wave forcing integrated over the entire cross-shore transect is balanced by the integrated bottom stress. The wind stress contributes about one third of the forcing over the transect. Analysis of the momentum balances in different cross-shore regions shows that in the surf zone, wave forcing is much larger than wind forcing and that the bottom drag coefficient is larger in the surf zone than farther seaward, consistent with earlier studies., Published in the Journal of Geophysical Research, v130 nC8 p15,667-15,676, 15 Jul 1998.