Nearshore Canyon Experiment

The long-term goals are to understand the transformation of surface gravity waves propagating across the nearshore to the beach, the corresponding wave-driven circulation, and the associated evolution of surfzone morphology. The objective of the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX) is to understand the effect of complex continental-shelf bathymetry on surface gravity waves and on the breaking-wave-driven circulation onshore of the irregular bathymetry. A primary objective this year was execution of the observational phase of NCEX. Additional objectives of our research are to test hypotheses for nearshore waves, currents, and morphological change with previously obtained observations. Our approach is to test hypotheses by comparing model predictions with waves, currents, and morphological evolution observed on natural beaches.
Prepared in collaboration with the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego, La Jolla, CA. Additional contract no. N00014-02-1 0415.