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Some consumers have become very suspicious of certain health products such as medicines, medical devices and cosmetics. This can lead them to choose to make such products themselves. The aim of this work was therefore to analyse recipes for eye makeup and makeup removal products, as well as eyelash and eye contour care products. We collected recipes for do-it-yourself products found on blogs and social media (YouTube channels, Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and TikTok) in French and English and then analyse their composition as well as how practical it is to make these recipes. We compiled and studied 275 recipes for products that can be used in or around the eye (periocular area). This work has shown that the quantities of the various ingredients are very imprecise, that the proposed substances are not suitable for the intended use and that the preservation of the finished products is not sufficiently guaranteed. The results obtained suggest that recipes for products intended for use in the eye or in the periocular area are not safe to use and that their use is likely to have relatively serious consequences.Certaines personnes sont devenues très méfiantes vis-à-vis des différents produits de santé que sont les médicaments, les dispositifs médicaux et les cosmétiques. Dans ce contexte, elles font le choix de réaliser elles-mêmes leurs produits. Le but de ce travail était l’analyse de recettes de produits de maquillage et de démaquillage des yeux, ainsi que de produits de soin des cils et du contour des yeux. Dans cet objectif, nous avons collecté des recettes de produits à faire soi-même sur des blogues et des médias sociaux (chaînes YouTube, comptes Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram et Tiktok) de langue française et de langue anglaise, puis nous les avons analysé d’un point de vue de leur réalisation pratique et de leur composition. 275 recettes de produits utilisables au niveau de l’œil ou de la zone périoculaire ont ainsi été compilées et étudiées. Il ressort de ce travail que les quantités des différents ingrédients sont très imprécises, que les substances proposées ne sont pas adaptées à l’usage visé et que la conservation des produits finis n’est pas suffisamment assurée. Les résultats obtenus suggèrent que les recettes de produits destinés à être utilisés au niveau de l’œil ou dans la zone péri-oculaire ne sont pas sûrs d’emploi et que leur utilisation est susceptible d’engendrer des conséquences relativement graves.

It has become a general practice worldwide to wear a face mask serving as a barrier against the transmission of pathogens. This has prompted us to investigate whether masks could also protect our skin from UV radiation. We have studied eight masks, four surgical and four "homemade" using an in vitro method. The study demonstrated that they all offered protection against both UVB and UVA radiation. As with clothing, fabric masks offer the highest level of protection against UV radiation.

Background Following a growing mistrust in a certain number of ingredients used by the cosmetic industry, it has become popular in recent years for consumers to make their own products at home. This trend now touches on all areas of the industry, but is especially found in the hygiene sector, with shampoos and toothpaste, and the care sector, with moisturizers and sunscreen, products. Objectives The objective of this study is to analyze sunscreen recipes found on the Internet and to assess their level of photoprotective efficacy. Materials and methods Fifteen Internet recipes were chosen, and then, the products were made in the laboratory following the protocols described. Using an in vitro method, the following efficacy indicators were determined for the preparations made: the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the Production Factor in the UVA domain (PF-UVA), and the critical wavelength (λc ). Results Three of the 15 recipes studied do not contain any sunscreen and therefore constitute a major risk for users in case of exposure to the sun. The other 12 cannot be considered as sun protection products since all of them have an SPF under 6, the threshold value required in Europe. Conclusion The recipes that we collected on the Internet are very dangerous since some of them have no photoprotective effect whatsoever and most of them do not ensure a sufficient level of photoprotection for the persons using them.

Many different chemotherapy drugs including cytotoxics and docetaxel in particular are responsible for side effects involving the nails. To prevent these negative effects, patients are advised to apply nail polish. The aim of this article is to study the photoprotective effect of various products applied in two layers. Sixty-five commercially-available products were tested in vitro. It was found that certain bases can provide non-negligible levels of photoprotection on their own. However, it was noted that nail polishes capable of forming an opaque film were the most interesting, with Sun protection factor (SPF) values of 500 or more, which is a lot higher than the values obtained with sun protection products and similar to levels which can be reached with protection through clothing. It appears that opaque nail polishes applied in two layers are likely to provide excellent protection for nails regarding ultraviolet radiation. If the dark colors are particularly effective towards the ultraviolet radiation, we can also obtain a very good protection with varied colors. The use of one or several UV filters in the formula of the mail polish does not appear to have a particular interest.

Using a topical product is part of the overall strategy for skin cancer prevention. The level of protection attainable when using commercial products is indicated by the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, in use everywhere. This value reflects the level of protection primarily in the UVB range. However, UVA radiation also has deleterious effects on the skin, and it is essential to prevent it, which is why products must offer a wide spectrum of protection. Tests conducted in vivo, before any marketing, are done by applying the studied product at a rate of 2.0 mg cm(-2), while users, in practice, only use 1.0-1.5 mg cm(-2). We now know that this reduction in the amount of applied product greatly affects the SPF. To complete the state of knowledge in this area, we sought to evaluate the effect of a decrease in the amount of applied sunscreen product by studying sunscreen creams and oils on the level of protection attainable in the UVA range. We have shown that the PF-UVA is divided by a factor of 2.2, on average, when the amount of applied product is reduced by half, with differences depending on the product type under consideration (cream or oil) and depending on the SPF of the preparation.

Resume Introduction Dans l’Union europeenne, les produits de protection solaire ont longtemps ete consideres comme des cosmetiques alors que dans d’autres parties du monde, aux Etats-Unis par exemple, il s’agit de medicaments. En France, des antisolaires disposant du statut de dispositif medical sont recemment apparus. Nous avons voulu comparer des dispositifs medicaux antisolaires a des cosmetiques antisolaires. Materiels et methodes Quatre protecteurs solaires ont fait l’objet de tests in vitro afin de determiner leur efficacite dans les domaines UVB et UVA, ainsi que leur photo-stabilite et leur resistance a l’eau. Il s’agissait de deux produits cosmetiques (Depiwhite S Soin photoprotecteur ® SPF 50+ et Urgo cicatrices ® SPF 30) et de deux dispositifs medicaux (DM) de classe I (Actinica lotion ® et Kelo-cote UV ® Gel pour cicatrices). Le principe de la methode in vitro utilisee repose sur la mesure de la transmittance d’un echantillon de produit applique sur une plaque de poly(methacrylate de methyle), a l’aide d’un spectrophotometre a sphere d’integration. Nous avons pu ainsi determiner le SPF de ces differents produits, leur photo-stabilite et leur niveau de resistance a l’eau. Resultats Du point de vue de l’efficacite, trois des quatre produits testes respectent les recommandations concernant les produits solaires en Europe, a savoir un ratio entre la protection dans le domaine UVB et celle dans le domaine UVA inferieur ou egal a 3 et une longueur d’onde critique (λ c ) superieure ou egale a 370 nm. C’est le produit Actinica lotion ® qui est le plus efficace, mais aussi le plus photo-stable, tout au moins dans le domaine UVB, des deux DM testes. Les quatre produits testes s’averent resistants a l’eau. Discussion Des produits presents sur le marche sous des statuts differents, avec des allegations differentes, presentent dans les conditions de notre etude des proprietes filtrantes equivalentes.

The immunosuppressive properties of Benzophenone-4, an UV-filter and three ingredients, Allantoin, Bisabolol and Enoxolon used in sunscreen formulation, previously characterized as anti-inflammatory compounds, are studied. The results of this study demonstrate that four tested molecules have effects on DCs and T cells which are the most important cells of the immune system. The impact is also visible on keratinocyte cells which are in the direct contact with skin sunscreens. Each ingredient should be used with caution at reduced doses or even removed from some cosmetic preparations, such as sunscreens.

BB creams appeared on the market quite recently. These creams, which give a perfect complexion by covering up the skin's blemishes, have a photoprotective effect in the majority of cases. An SPF value ranging from 10 to 45 concerning the products we tested is displayed on the packaging. The 21 commercially-available BB creams were tested to assess their efficacy (determination of the SPF) and their photostability (determination of their efficacy after UV irradiation). It was shown that 70% of the products tested have an SPF determined in vitro by us which matches the SPF displayed on the product. For the remaining 30%, it can be seen that products have SPF values of between 2 and 10 times lower than those indicated on the products. It can also be noted that there is a large disparity in terms of photostability since, under the same experimental conditions, however, some products only lose 5% of their photoprotective efficacy, whereas others lose 60%.

When determined in vitro, the SPF of certain commercial sunscreen products can be lower than the SPF indicated on the label. The study of the composition of this type of product enabled us to note that the majority contained substances reputed to have anti-inflammatory properties. This effect is shown by inhibiting the erythema, without protecting the skin, which constitutes a serious public health problem. The anti-inflammatory effects of αbisabolol-, allantoin- and 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid-based emulsions, as well as commercial sun products containing any one of these molecules, have been tested with phorbol myristate acetate on mice. The effectiveness of these sunscreens products is quantified using two indicators: SPF (sun protection factor) and PF-UVA (protection factor-UVA) by in vitro method. We were thus able to show that certain sun products have an anti-inflammatory effect, which in turn causes the SPF value shown on the product to be overestimated, indeed sometimes by considerably large margins.

Background Protecting young children is a major public health issue. Objective We tested children’s clothing and sunscreen products that are specially designed for children. Methods The effectiveness of the different types of clothing and sunscreen products was determined using spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere A measure of transmittance carried out, respectively, between 290 and 400 nm and between 320 and 400 nm, allowed us to assess the photoprotective properties in the UVB and UVA range respectively. Results Although the photoprotective effect varies according to the type of clothing (UV-protection factor [UPF] of approximately 10 for a cotton T-shirt and 500 for a pair of jeans), the effect is constant for any one type of clothing. Placing fabrics in layers is essential and this enables the protective effect to be greatly increased. Moreover, the authors wished to answer the question, ‘what makes a good sun cream?’ by analysing the formula of each product tested. It turns out that only creams containing both organic filters and inorganic filters have an sun protection factor (SPF) that is the same as the one stated on the product. Conclusion Concerning townwear, the jeans, tracksuits, sweatshirts, pullovers and tights turned out to be very photoprotective. They enable, in effect, to reach a UPF higher than 500. The mere presence of titanium dioxide and/or zinc dioxide does not mean that the product will have a high SPF. Products containing alcohol can be eliminated from the possible choices by carefully reading the label.

Apart from the protection offered by clothing, the application of sunscreen products suited to each type of skin constitutes one way for decreasing the frequency of skin cancers nowadays. After having adapted an in vitro method for determining the efficacy of sunscreens in emulsion form, we wished to transpose this technique by adapting it for the anti-solar sticks for the evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. To do this, we tested 14 products in the market as well as sticks that we ourselves fabricated in the laboratory. In a base common to all of these sticks, we added organic (13 filters tested) and inorganic (two filters tested, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) to their maximum permitted concentration in the European Union. In parallel, emulsions containing the same filters at the same percentage of use were studied; to be in keeping with the results on the products packaging on the one hand, and with the results obtained for the emulsion form on the other hand, we were able to determine the optimal mass which needed to be placed on the support used the in vitro test to determine the SPF.

Resume Les pellicules, affection dermatologique due essentiellement a la levure Pityrosporum ovale, affectent les deux tiers de la population, d'une maniere plus ou moins severe. Pour notre part, nous nous sommes attaches a mettre en evidence l'activite antifongique de deux substances couramment utilisees dans des cosmetiques capillaires: la pyrithione-zinc et la piroctone olamine, a plusieurs concentrations. Une fois choisie, la concentration optimale, deux shampooings ont ete formules, afin de determiner la tolerance cutanee des formes cosmetiques terminees. La tolerance cutanee a eteevaluee par etude profilometrique de contre-empreintes obtenues a partir d'empreintes de peau. Cette etude nous revele une superiorite de la piroctone olamine, aussi bien d'un point de vue activite antifongique que d'un point de vue tolerance cutanee.

Marine resources represent an interesting source of active ingredients for the cosmetics industry. Algae (macro and micro) are rich in proteins, amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins (A, B, and C) and oligo-elements such as copper, iron and zinc. All those active principles play roles in hydration, firming, slimming, shine and protection. Marine organisms inhabit a wide spectrum of habitats. Photo-protective compounds can be obtained from organisms subjected to strong light radiation, such as in tropical systems or in shallow water. In the same way, molecules with antioxidant potential can be obtained from microorganisms inhabiting extreme systems such as hydrothermal vents. For example, marine bacteria collected around deep-sea hydrothermal vents produce complex and innovative polysaccharides in the laboratory which are useful in cosmetics. There are many properties that will be put forward by the cosmetic industries.

Depigmentation and skin lightening products, which have been in use for ages in Asian countries where skin whiteness is a major esthetic criterion, are now also highly valued by Western populations, who expose themselves excessively to the sun and develop skin spots as a consequence. After discussing the various possible mechanisms of depigmentation, the different molecules that can be used as well as the status of the products containing them will now be presented. Hydroquinone and derivatives thereof, retinoids, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, ascorbic acid, divalent ion chelators, kojic acid, azelaic acid, as well as diverse herbal extracts are described in terms of their efficacy and safety. Since a genuine effect (without toxic effects) is difficult to obtain, prevention by using sunscreen products is always preferable.

It is now a clearly established fact that ultraviolet radiation is involved in the induction of skin cancer such as carcinoma and melanoma. The most efficient means of protection is by using clothes. For uncovered areas, it is essential to apply a sun product. For some time, various authors have been wondering about the inefficiency or indeed the dangerousness of sun products. Cases of sunburn are still just as frequent in children. We have chosen to study the influence of the quantity of sun product applied on the skin on the level of efficiency obtained. Twenty commercially-available products with SPFs varying between 10 and 50+ and belonging to all levels of protection, that is to say "low", "medium" and "high", were tested in vitro at 5 different doses (5.0, 7.5, 10.0, 12.5 and 15.0 mg for a surface area of 25 cm(2)). We were able to demonstrate that there was a polynomial relationship between the SPF and the quantity of product on the skin's surface. It can be seen that when the dose is halved, the SPF is divided by a variable factor according to the product, from 1.5 to 3.8.

ejd.2012.1698 Auteur(s) : Celine A. Couteau, Laurence JM Coiffard laurence.coiffard@univ-nantes.fr LPiC, MMS, EA2160, Faculty of Pharmacy, 1 rue G. Veil, BP 53508, Nantes, F-44000 France Sun products are products which are designed to be applied topically in large quantities, the efficacy test which they undergo being carried out with a dose of 2 mg/cm2. It is this dose which is recommended to be used, whatever the user's age. These are products which are susceptible to be used by all types [...]

BACKGROUND: To explain observed differences during SPF determination using either an in vivo or in vitro method, we hypothesized on the presence of ingredients having anti-inflammatory properties. METHODOLOGY/PRINCIPAL FINDINGS: To research our hypothesis, we studied the 21 UV filters both available on the market and authorized by European regulations and subjected these filters to the phorbol-myristate-acetate test using mice. We then catalogued the 13 filters demonstrating a significant anti-inflammatory effect with edema inhibition percentages of more than 70%. The filters are: diethylhexyl butamido triazone (92%), benzophenone-5 and titanium dioxide (90%), benzophenone-3 (83%), octocrylène and isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (82%), PEG-25 PABA and homosalate (80%), octyl triazone and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (78%), octyl dimethyl PABA (75%), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate (70%). These filters were tested at various concentrations, including their maximum authorized dose. We detected a dose-response relationship. CONCLUSIONS/SIGNIFICANCE: The anti-inflammatory effect of a sunscreen ingredient may affect the in vivo SPF value.

As soon as the weather turns sunny, everyone wants a tan. People with skin phototypes III and IV, called melanocompetent, have no problem meeting this fashion requirement. But things are quite different for people with phototypes I and II and so these individuals look for alternative solutions. In essence, light skin burns easily when exposed to the sun. Therefore, light-skinned people are offered a cosmetic solution through self-tanning products or foundations. It seemed interesting to us to evaluate the sun protection power of this type of product. To do this, we used an in vitro method to determine the typical indicators related to sunscreen products, such as sun protection factor (SPF), ultraviolet (UV)-A protection factor (PF-UVA), UV-B/UV-A ratio as well as the critical wavelength because these artificial tanning products could be considered sunscreen products by users. It is important to know whether a self-tanning product and/or a foundation provide sun protection and whether they meet the standards set for other sunscreen products. Protection which is imbalanced for either UV-B or UV-A radiation is potentially harmful for users believing themselves adequately protected. To do this, we assembled the requisite conditions for forming melanoidins in the cosmetic itself. We tested seven amino acids found in the corneal cells of the epidermis. Regardless of the amino acid used, the corresponding SPF was essentially zero (approximately SPF 2). Foundations, on the other hand, proved to be much more interesting because they possess a non-negligible SPF as well as good photostability making these products safe in terms of their mode of application (applied once daily).

The goal of this study is to investigate commercially available cosmetics (foundations, skin care creams) which also claim to include a sun protection factor (SPF). Are these products, which are not considered sunscreen products, helpful or could they be harmful? Using an in vitro method, we tested the effectiveness of 35 commercially available products against UVB and UVA radiation. For each product, our testing focused on determining the following four values in terms of current legal recommendations: SPF, UVA protection factor (PF-UVA), UVB/UVA ratio and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). We also tested each product's level of photostability. Effectively, when considering instructions for use (skincare products are applied once, in the morning) any product displaying an SPF must be particularly photostable, since its labeling does not indicate reapplication. In contrast, the packaging on sunscreen products clearly indicates the necessity of frequent reapplication. Out of the 35 products we tested, seven do not comply with legislation regarding sunscreen products. This non-compliance translates into insufficient protection against UVA radiation. The products sold in pharmacies did comply. In terms of photostability, only eight products out of the original 35 proved to be sufficiently photostable. It would seem inappropriate to use filters in the formulas of non-sunscreen cosmetics.