1. Extraction, Encapsulation into Lipid Vesicular Systems, and Biological Activity of Rosa canina L. Bioactive Compounds for Dermocosmetic Use
- Author
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Valentina Sallustio, Ilaria Chiocchio, Manuela Mandrone, Marco Cirrincione, Michele Protti, Giovanna Farruggia, Angela Abruzzo, Barbara Luppi, Federica Bigucci, Laura Mercolini, Ferruccio Poli, Teresa Cerchiara, Sallustio, V, Chiocchio, I, Mandrone, M, Cirrincione, M, Protti, M, Farruggia, G, Abruzzo, A, Luppi, B, Bigucci, F, Mercolini, L, Poli, F, and Cerchiara, T
- Subjects
Polyphenol ,cosmetic ingredient ,Organic Chemistry ,Pharmaceutical Science ,antioxidant activity ,Lipid ,skin retention ,Rosa ,Analytical Chemistry ,Liposome ,Chemistry (miscellaneous) ,Tandem Mass Spectrometry ,Drug Discovery ,hyalurosome ,ethosome ,Molecular Medicine ,Rosa canina L ,cytotoxicity ,Rosa canina L. extract ,polyphenols ,liposomes ,hyalurosomes ,ethosomes ,cosmetic ingredients ,Physical and Theoretical Chemistry ,Antioxidant ,extract - Abstract
Valorization of wild plants to obtain botanical ingredients could be a strategy for sustainable production of cosmetics. This study aimed to select the rosehip extract containing the greatest amounts of bioactive compounds and to encapsulate it in vesicular systems capable of protecting their own antioxidant activity. Chemical analysis of Rosa canina L. extracts was performed by LC-DAD-MS/MS and 1H-NMR and vitamins, phenolic compounds, sugars, and organic acids were detected as the main compounds of the extracts. Liposomes, prepared by the film hydration method, together with hyalurosomes and ethosomes, obtained by the ethanol injection method, were characterized in terms of vesicle size, polydispersity index, entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, in vitro release and biocompatibility on WS1 fibroblasts. Among all types of vesicular systems, ethosomes proved to be the most promising nanocarriers showing nanometric size (196 ± 1 nm), narrow polydispersity (0.20 ± 0.02), good entrapment efficiency (92.30 ± 0.02%), and negative zeta potential (−37.36 ± 0.55 mV). Moreover, ethosomes showed good stability over time, a slow release of polyphenols compared with free extract, and they were not cytotoxic. In conclusion, ethosomes could be innovative carriers for the encapsulation of rosehip extract.
- Published
- 2022
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