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Duy, D.V.; Tanaka, H.; Mitobe, Y.; Anh, N.Q.D., and Viet, N.T., 2018. Sand spit elongation and sediment balance at Cua Lo Inlet in Central Vietnam. In: Almar, R.; Almeida, L.P.; Trung Viet, N., and Sall, M. (eds.), Tropical Coastal and Estuarine Dynamics. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 81, pp. 32–39. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Erosion is significant on the downdrift beach of Cua Lo Inlet, which is located in Central Vietnam. The elongation of Cua Lo Inlet's updrift sand spit together with severe erosion of the downdrift bank is raising numerous social problems such as flood safety and land loss. In this study, a series of Landsat and Google Earth images were used to analyze and investigate the inlet recent morphological changes and evolution. Since 1970 the inlet has constantly migrated towards the sediment transport pathway, and its traveling distance has reached 1700 m. In order to quantitatively investigate such characteristics, the tip coordinates and the area of the sand spit updrift of the inlet were calculated. In particular, the area of the sand spit has increased remarkably, and the increasing rate is almost constant. Using this value, the rate of sand volume transported along the updrift sand spit by the waves was estimated and it is in good agreement with the longshore sediment transport rate of the surrounding beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Thanh, T.M.; Tanaka, H.; Mitobe, Y.; Viet, N.T., and Almar, R., 2018. Seasonal variation of morphology and sediment movement on Nha Trang Coast, Vietnam. In: Almar, R.; Almeida, L.P.; Trung Viet, N., and Sall, M. (eds.), Tropical Coastal and Estuarine Dynamics. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 81, pp. 22–31. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The Nha Trang beach, an embayed sandy beach located in the southeast of Vietnam, is a tropical touristic coastal environment that is being threat by persistent shoreline retreat. In order to investigate the processes underlying this erosive pattern, 1.5-years of video imagery, obtained from a local video system, was analyzed. Video products such as shoreline position and surf zone width (extracted from time-averaged images) were used to identify patterns of shoreline variability (using empirical orthogonal function – EOF) and investigate the link between the seasonal variations in the wave forcing and longshore sediment transport. Results indicate that shoreline retreat occurs essentially during the winter season, when energetic northeast monsoon waves dominate. The recovery phase (shoreline advance) was found to occur during the summer season, when milder south/southeast wind waves dominate. Shoreline variability was further investigated using EOF analysis and results show that the first mode, which explains 89% of the observed variance, corresponds to the seasonal longshore shoreline variations. This EOF mode was found to strongly related to the winter and summer monsoon seasons, thus reinforcing the role that seasonal changes in the wave climate play on the shoreline variations. Finally, the net of longshore sediment transport in Nha Trang beach was investigated using seasonal and monthly depth of closure (Dc) information, rather than a single fixed value of this parameter. The results highlight that the use of monthly or seasonal Dc values allow to capture the seasonal variations in the wave climate, thus providing more realistic patterns of sediment transport in this coastal area. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pile-Rock breakwaters (PRBW) have been constructed as long continuous features in the West Sea of the Mekong Delta. Optimising the gap arrangement and spatial orientation of these continuous breakwaters can result in positive impacts on the velocity field, sediment distribution, and shoreline morphology. In this study, experimental and numerical modelling was performed to investigate the effect of breakwater gaps on bedload sediment transport and nearshore bed morphology. The gap width across various hydrodynamic conditions was found to have a significant impact on bedload sediment transport and nearshore bed morphology. This study found breakwater gaps can result in high current speed and flow due to wave diffraction, which subsequently also accelerates the shoreline and bed erosion process. The gaps also have a positive impact by facilitating sediment supply behind the breakwaters, which enhances the living shoreline. The sediment exchange rate was higher in low water conditions for the emerged breakwater caused by wave circulation stirring up the sediment with higher wave amplitude. During high-water conditions, the results showed a relatively smaller area of sedimentation behind the breakwater. Under high water level conditions, the ability to stir up sediment decreases, resulting in low sediment transport. The findings from this study can be used to optimize the design of pile-rock breakwaters and their performance on the deltaic coast. • Gap arrangement were investigated by physical and numerical models. • 3D wave basin laboratory and 2D Xbeach numerical modelling were applied. • High velocity and flow through the breakwater gaps due to wave diffraction. • The gaps facilitate the sediment supply behind the breakwaters. • The sediment exchange supply is greater in low water conditions and versa. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study the numerical model Delft3D is implemented on high-resolution grids to evaluate beach morphological response to groins and submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. The numerical model is compared with field measurements from three sites on the northern Yucatan coast of Mexico. At these sites, relatively low energy waves with significant wave heights arrive at a steep oblique angle to the coast that drives high sediment transport rates. After calibration of the model, by adjustment of model free parameters, the model results show accurate representations of the diurnal variation of hydrodynamic conditions (wave height and current velocity) driven by the daily sea-breezes. Moreover, the morphodynamic model shows a good representation of the rapid morphological changes, particularly of the accretion pattern caused by a temporary groin and the subsequent recovery following the structure removal. However, erosion patterns at the downdrift areas of structures were not reproduced, owing to the numerical model limitations of simulating swash morphodynamics. Model validation with field observations of the beach response behind submerged breakwaters enabled the model to be used for a parametric study. Following previous work, new equations are developed in the present study that show an improvement for predicting shoreline changes near submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. Despite the limitations in reproducing downdrift erosion, overall the high-resolution modelling approach satisfactorily simulates the hydrodynamic and the updrift accretion responses to coastal structures on sandy beaches with oblique waves. • Simulations of beach change near groins and submerged breakwaters are performed. • Results are compared to measurements at three sites with high sediment transport rates. • New equations show improved prediction of shoreline change near submerged structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beaches provide natural protection for coast and ecosystems. Storm surges and waves make significant impacts on the topographic changes of beaches, subsequently causing crises of coastal erosion and management. Beach protection and nourishment projects is growing considerably along the world. Five profiles of Dongsha Beach located in the southeast of Zhujiajian Island, eastern China, were measured and used to analyze the cross-shore profile changes, longshore sediment transport, beach rotation and equilibrium shoreline and profile. Delft3D Flow/Wave and XBeach models were established and calibrated to investigate the morphological responses of Dongsha Beach. It was found that: (1) the longshore sediment transport dominated the changes of erosion and accretion sediment volume compared to the cross-shore sediment transport; (2) the shoreline of Dongsha Beach was not in equilibrium condition compared to the profile equilibrium conditions; (3) the longshore sediment transportation was the main reason of the erosion because the shoreline changes caused by longshore sediment transport during the storm condition could not be restored during calm sea periods; (4) the correlation between wave induced currents and Hs2·T was good and the dominating wave direction was 90°. Finally, sediment nourishment projects named N1∼N3 were assumed and simulated to identify the optimum for the dynamic balance of Dongsha beach. Sediment sources with D 50 of 0.5 mm should be chosen in sediment nourishment projects, and the nourished area should be selected in N1 or N3 of the beach. The numerical model established in this study could be a useful tool to predict the future erosion and accretion of beaches. This study can provide a useful understanding and reference especially for the embayed beach nourishment, making the beach management decisions more scientific and reasonable. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profile morphology. The three different initial profiles are an intermediate energy profile with an offshore bar and a small swash berm, a plane profile and a low energy profile with a large berm. The three cases evolve towards the same final (equilibrium) profile determined by the same wave condition. This implies that the same wave condition generates different sediment transport patterns. Largest beach changes and differences in hydrodynamics occur in the beginning of the experimental cases, highlighting the coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics for beach evolution towards the same profile. The coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics that leads to the same final beach profile is associated with differences in sediment transport in the surf and swash zone, and is explained by the presence of bar and berm features. A large breaker bar and concave profile promote wave energy dissipation and reduce the magnitudes of the mean near-bed flow velocity close to the shoreline limiting shoreline erosion. In contrast, a beach profile with reflective features, such as a large berm and a small or no bar, increases negative velocity magnitudes at the berm toe promoting shoreline retreat. The findings are summarised in a conceptual model that describes how the beach changes towards equilibrium from two different initial morphologies.

Rising sea levels are expected to cause widespread coastal recession over the course of the next century. In this work, new insight into the response of sandy beaches to sea level rise is obtained through a series of comprehensive experiments using monochromatic and random waves in medium scale laboratory wave flumes. Beach profile development from initially planar profiles, and a 2/3 power law profile, exposed to wave conditions that formed barred or bermed profiles and subsequent profile evolution following rises in water level and the same wave conditions are presented. Experiments assess profile response to a step-change in water level as well as the influence of sediment deposition above the still water level (e.g. overwash). A continuity based profile translation model (PTM) is applied to both idealised and measured shoreface profiles, and is used to predict overwash and deposition volumes above the shoreline. Quantitative agreement with the Bruun Rule (and variants of it) is found for measured shoreline recession for both barred and bermed beach profiles. There is some variability between the profiles at equilibrium at the two different water levels. Under these idealised conditions, deviations between the original Bruun Rule, the modification by Rosati et al. (2013) and the PTM model predictions are of the order of 15% and all these model predictions are within ±30% of the observed shoreline recession. Measurements of the recession of individual contour responses, such as the shoreline, may be subject to local profile variability; therefore, a measure of the mean recession of the profile is also obtained by averaging the recession of discrete contours throughout the active profile. The mean recession only requires conservation of volume, not conservation of profile shape, to be consistent with the Bruun Rule concept, and is found to be in better agreement with all three model predictions than the recession measured at the shoreline. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Kim, M.; Lim, H.S.; Do, J.-D.; Kim, S.-S.; Lee, H.J., and Shim, J.-S., 2018. Variations of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in Haeundae. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1551–1555. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Haeundae, located on the southeastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, is a famous sand beach with a 1.6 km long, 70 m wide coastline. It suffers from wave-induced beach erosion in both summer and winter. For beach restoration, the Korean government has conducted beach nourishment (620,000 m3), and installed submerged breakwaters at both ends of the beach. Despite these efforts, the beach is still vulnerable to erosion caused by high waves. To understand beach erosion processes and sediment transport mechanisms, the government initiated an R&D project for the development of coastal erosion control technology since 2013. As part of the project, we have measured over three years of AWAC measurements at a water depth of 22 m and 1.8 km from the beach. Intensive measurements of wave, current, sediment transport near the surf-zone in summer and winter have been made using AWAC, VECTOR, and ADV with OBS. Analyses of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in the surf-zone have shown that cross-shore currents in summer are mainly induced by strong waves from the SSW or S that propagate to the beach due to wave breaking and shoaling effects on the reef near the beach. However, longshore currents in winter are induced by high waves from the E or ESE that propagate to the shoreline by diffraction at the east coastline. Eroded sand in summer returns along the beach by cross-shore and weak longshore currents induced by waves from the SSW or S. However, suspended sand in winter is moved to the west by strong longshore currents induced by waves from the E or ESE. Due to its pocket beach shape, beach erosion and sediment transport are caused by variations of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Lim, H.S.; Kim, M.; Do, J.-D.; Kim, S.-S.; Lee, H.J., and Kim, D.H., 2018. Variation of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in Haeundae. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 686–690. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Wave-induced currents at Anmok, located on the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, are one of the main causes of beach erosion related to high waves. Coastline changes induced by beach erosion and deposition are predominantly caused by sediment transport in the surf zone. This sediment transport is generated by wave-induced currents and depends on the wave height and direction. To understand beach erosion processes and the sediment transport mechanisms, field measurements of beach elevation and water depth were conducted for one month in winter 2015–2016. Using AWAC, ADP, VECTOR, and Aquadopp Profiler with OBS, intensive observations were made of waves, currents, and sediment transport in the surf zone. Wave and current variations were simultaneously analyzed at a water depth of approximately 18 m (W1) using long-term deployed AWAC data. Wave statistical analysis at station W1 shows that high waves from the NNE and NE are dominant in winter due to strong northeasterly winds from the NE. However, in summer, high waves coming from the NE and ENE are prevalent due to seasonal winds from the E and SE. By analyzing currents observed in the surf zone with waves, we found that a cross-shore current is generated by high waves, predominantly in winter, with incoming waves normal to the shoreline. Following the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents are separated into SE or NW directions depending on high waves come from the NNE or ENE, respectively. The variations of wave-induced currents caused by incoming wave height and direction accounts for the observed beach erosion and sediment transport, which in turn leads to beach cusp formation and crescentic sand bar migration during high wave periods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Santos, M.I.; Oliveira, F.S.B.F., and Trigo-Teixeira, A., 2018. Characterization of Maritime Storms and Analysis of their Effect on the Beaches South of the Mondego River (Portugal). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 266–270. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. In the study of coastal processes and coastal dynamics, the analysis of the storms impact is one of the most discussed topics in terms of management and defense of the coastal sector. The Portuguese west coast is exposed to the energetic wave climate that characterizes the North Atlantic, thus requiring permanent care as regards the efficient coastline management and planning. Indeed, the risk associated with erosion and flooding of vulnerable areas is a constant concern, making it imperative to predict the impact of these events and the response of the beach-dune systems. This study focuses on maritime storms and on the morphological response of the beach to these short-term events. The two main objectives are to characterize the storms regime in the coastal stretch between the Mondego and the Lis rivers' inlets based on the wave time series (hindcast) from the period 1952–2010, and to evaluate the impact of the storms duration on erosive events, using a short-term morphodynamic numerical model, LITPROF. This model is used for the analysis of the effect of storms on the beach morphology and thus, for comparing the erosive effect of events with the same relative storm power and different duration. The statistical analysis of the wave climate time series showed a coastal storms regime with high inter-annual and intra-annual variability in number, duration and relative storm power of events, characterized by a strong seasonality, with an average duration and relative storm power of 3 days and 2654 m2.h, respectively. The most frequent events are simultaneously in the classes [1–2[ days and [800–1600[ m2.h (36% of occurrences). The numerical model, applied to several scenarios, predicted the dominance of the duration factor for storms with similar relative storm power, leading to the conclusion that longer duration storms always generate larger erosive effects (and higher transport rates) in the cross-shore profile, when compared with storms of shorter duration. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Talavera, L.; Del Río, L.; Benavente, J.; Barbero, L., and López-Ramírez, J.A., 2018. UAS & SfM-based approach to Monitor Overwash Dynamics and Beach Evolution in a Sandy Spit. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 221–225. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The role of overwash processes is of great relevance in the long-term evolution of sandy barriers, and it can also affect coastal infrastructures in the short term. In this work, a 10-month monitoring program based on the use of Unmanned Aerial Systems (UAS) in combination with Structure from Motion (SfM) algorithms was performed in order to monitor morphological changes and ulterior evolution at Camposoto beach, an overwash-prone coastal spit located in SW Spain. This UAS&SfM approach allowed the reconstruction of 6 Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) of the area with high temporal and spatial resolutions (RMS vertical errors spanning from 5 to 8 cm). The morphological changes occurred were detected using Geomorphic Change Detection Software in ArcGIS, and they were correlated with the oceanographic conditions that prevailed during the analysed period. The results obtained provided insight into the response of the system against storm-induced overwash, which caused significant erosion/accretion patterns over a pre-existing washover fan, as well as the landward migration of the system. In addition, this methodology captured the progressive partial recovery of the system, which included onshore transport of sand, fore-beach accretion, and berm reconstruction. Despite the partial recovery observed, spring tides also triggered non-storm overwash in the area during fair-weather conditions, allowing to rethink the actual vulnerability state of the spit against rollover processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Do, K.; Shin, S.; Cox, D., and Yoo, J., 2018. An international comparison of drowning in South Korea. In: Shim, J.- S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 196–200. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Coastal sand dune system is important in the nearshore environment for sand supply, ecosystem, and hazard mitigation. In this study, a process-based morphological model was performed and the results were compared with large-scale laboratory experimental data. Two-dimensional large-scale laboratory experiments were conducted with 1:6 geometric scale in the large wave flume (104m (L) × 3.7 m (W) × 4.6 m (D)) of the Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University (Maddux et al, 2006). Several different wave conditions were used with different water levels in this experiment including pre-storm, storm, and post storm based on random wave time series by using TMA spectrum. The data set included cross-shore Wave heights, fluid velocities, and the profile changes of the beach and dune. The process based model, XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) was used to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics and bed level change during storm wave condition. Several semi-empirical parameters were used in the XBeach model to predict morphodynamic process (Roelvink et al., 2009) and recently the updated parameters (WTI settings) were suggested based on the results of field observations. The present study ran the XBeach model by using both default and WTI settings and compared with the results from the experiments. The results showed that the model results with WTI settings showed good agreement with the measured beach profile while the model results with default settings over-predicted the offshore sediment transport and dune erosion. Especially, the wave skewness (facSk) and asymmetry (facAs) gave the highest contribution to predict dune erosion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Underneath rock slopes of rubble mound structures often one or more granular filter layers are present. These filter layers prevent base material washout. In contrast to traditional filters, geometrically open filters allow for some movement of base material. In order to design such open filters the amount of erosion and accretion of base material needs to be predicted. Based on 2D physical model tests Van Gent and Wolters (2015) presented a method to estimate the erosion and accretion of sand underneath rock slopes. Since the developed method was only valid for perpendicular wave attack, a new study has been performed to assess effects of oblique wave attack on the amount of erosion and accretion of sand underneath a rock slope. For that purpose 3D physical model tests were performed in a wave basin with 5 different wave angle between 0° (perpendicular wave attack) and 75°. Based on the test results it was shown how the effects of wave obliquity can be taken into account in the design of open filters. In addition, the effect of the storm duration on open filters has been studied. This led to an extended design method to predict the amount of erosion and accretion of sand underneath rock slopes under wave loading. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Park, W.K.; Moon, Y.H.; Chang, S.Y.; Jeong, W.M.; Chae, J.W.; Ryu, K.H.; Chang, Y.S., and Jin, J.Y., 2018. Nonlinear Transformation of Storm Waves and Impacts on Nearshore Mound in Haeundae Beach, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1131–1135. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Haeundae beach is the most popular beach in South Korea which has been suffered from serious erosion problem. To protect the beach erosion, various countermeasures such as beach nourishments, submerged breakwaters and nearshore mound have been conducted. However during typhoon Chaba (1618), extreme storms caused significant beach erosions. Extensive field measurements have been made to monitor the storm impacts on the beach changes. This study focuses on (i) the nonlinear transformation of the very high waves over the submerged shoals in coastal waters and nearshore mound placed parallel to the shoreline, and (ii) the consequent morphological changes. For numerical modeling, SWAN was used for offshore wave propagation and XBeach of non-hydrostatic mode for hydrodynamics and sediment transport simulations. It is found that the storm waves were significantly transformed by submerged shoals through wave breaking due to the shallow water depth and generation of super harmonics with significant amount of wave energy transferred from the primary waves, and similar process occurred around the nearshore mound. Specifically, the impacts of the nearshore mound on beach evolution were pronounced for the beach erosion control with respect to wave energy dissipation, onshore sediment transport, and sediment trap in the lee of the mound. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Kim, H.J.; Cho, S.M., and Cho, W.C., 2018. Numerical analysis of beach erosion at Jeongdongjin Beach in South Korea using field survey and measurement data. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 596–600. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Recently, Jeongdongjin Beach in Gangneung, Gangwon–do, in the eastern part of South Korea, has been seriously eroded, and several parts of the revetments along the coast were subsided due to frequent high wave attacks. Thus, several parts of the Jeongdongjin rail bike track and facility in the southern part of Jeongdongjin station were damaged and washed out. In this study, field surveys and measurements (including waves, current, water depth, seabed material, beach profile, and shoreline) at Jeongdongjin Beach 2014–2015 were conducted to analyze and determine the erosion process. From the surveys and measurements, it reveals that longshore currents moving to the south and north are generated in winter and summer season due to dominant NE and ENE wave directions, respectively. Rip currents are also generated in several points near the coast due to waves coming from various directions and morphological characteristics. Beach erosion at the front of Jeongdongjin station has repeatedly occurred due to high wave attacks. Numerical simulations on the generation of long-shore current, sediment transport, and shoreline change were conducted using field data, and the erosion process at Jeongdongjin Beach was analyzed to determine the characteristics of seasonal longshore sediment transport and the effect of the construction of revetments to beach erosion. From these monitoring data and numerical results, the process of Jeongdongjin Beach erosion was predicted and beach maintenance and protection plans at Jeongdongjin Beach are established. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Chang, Y.S.; Huisman, B.; Boer, W., and Yoo, J., 2018. Hindcast of Long-term Shoreline Change due to Coastal Interventions at Namhangjin, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 201–205. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Namhangjin beach is protected by multiple submerged breakwaters (SBWs) which were built to protect the ~4 km long sandy beach. A coastline model (UNIBEST) was used to investigate the long term effect of the SBW structures on the beach. The model computes long-term shoreline changes due to coastal structures as a result of the strong longshore sediment transport gradients at the structures. Bathymetry data of the shoreface and nearshore profiles were obtained from a field survey, while wave conditions from offshore WAM hindcast (Wave Modeling Group) were transformed towards the nearshore with the Delft3D+SWAN modelling system. Local wave sheltering by the SBWs was included in the wave model. A situation with and without the SBWs was modelled. A rapid adjustment of the shoreline was observed in the model as a result of the wave conditions in the first two years. After that, the shoreline shape stabilized without significant changes both for the situation with and without SBWs. A smooth curved coastline shape was obtained in the model without SBWs, while the model with SBWs shows a similar overall shoreline shape with undulations of the shoreline shape behind the breakwaters. A similar undulating shoreline was observed in the Sept-2013 imagery at Namhangjin beach. The local accretion behind the SBWs may induce some erosion in the lee area of the SBWs, causing distortions of the shoreline shape. Most sediment accreted at the first SBW (i.e. the northern most SBW where alongshore transport from the North was trapped), while the coastline change rate gradually decreased towards the South. The effectiveness of the SBWs at the considered shoreline section for maintaining the shoreline is somewhat ambiguous as local areas with accretion or erosion are present with respect to the situation without the breakwaters. The results show that multiple SBWs need to be carefully designed to protect beaches as local distortions of the shoreline shape may be present directly downdrift from the structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Alonso, R.; Solari, S., and Teixeira, L., 2018. Erosion Problem on a Fluvial Beach. The Case Study of "La Concordia" in the Uruguay River. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 131–135. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. A case study of beach erosion at "La Concordia" is presented. It is a fluvial beach located in the most downstream stretch of the Uruguay River. Despite it is a fluvial environment, the 10 km width that the river has in this zone allows for the generation of wind-waves that play an important role in the morphological processes that shape its sandy margins. This was initially proven by assessing the evolution of the coastline from satellite images and aerial photos, since the main change observed in the coastline is the expected one when groins are built on a sea coast. After that, the predominant influence of waves was confirmed by: 1) a good agreement between the geometry of the system (i.e. plan-shape and profiles) with the one predicted by formulations conceived from wave dominated marine environments, 2) a cross–section river flow velocity distribution, calculated for an historical maximum discharge, that shows that outside of the river channels velocities are lower than the critical expected for bottom sediment transport, 3) an estimation of the littoral transport in agreement with the historical coastline evolution. This verification supports the use of models and methods commonly employed in coastal engineering for the study of this type of fluvial beaches. In this case, the numerical model XBeach was used to simulate the response of the system to extreme events, in order to provide an input to a beach nourishment design. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Disequilibrium-type models for two beach profile parameters, P , the shoreline position and net bulk sediment transport, are developed for laboratory experiments that demonstrate morphological hysteresis in the evolution to equilibrium of beach profiles under sequences of different wave climates. The model principle follows the classical disequilibrium approach but with non-monotonic relationships between the forcing and the chosen beach profile parameter at equilibrium, P eq , previously verified and presented in part 1 of this work (Baldock et al., 2017). Two such relationships are required to model beach profile evolution that exhibits morphological hysteresis. The model coefficients are derived for monochromatic and random wave experiments and subsequently used to model data obtained from cyclic erosive and accretive wave conditions of shorter durations, alternating through multiple cycles. In these conditions equilibrium conditions were not reached and hysteresis does not occur. The model is used to investigate the morphological feedback between the outer and inner bars and the resulting behaviour of the bulk transport, and the relative depth over the bar crest is shown to be an attractor in this case. The model coefficients and morphological time-scales derived from the cyclic experiments are very similar to those derived from the equilibrium experiments for the bulk transport. Normalised mean square model errors range from 1% to 20% when applied to independent data. The data from the cyclic wave conditions can be inverted to derive the conditions expected at equilibrium, which match those observed, indicating a robust model relationship between the forcing and P eq . The relationship between the forcing and P eq can also be determined directly from the cyclic experiments. This approach may be more robust than determining the relationship from periods where P is stationary since, in a time-series of P versus the forcing, stationary points can occur due to changes in wave conditions, in addition to the instances when P = P eq . [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Novel series of experiments are presented that demonstrate morphological hysteresis in the evolution to equilibrium of beach profiles under sequences of different wave climates. The experiments were conducted in a wave flume at medium scale using both monochromatic and random waves, representing 2D conditions. Beach profiles were obtained with high spatial resolution at frequent intervals with a laser profiler, from which shoreline location, bar position and sediment transport rates were derived. Experiments were conducted for sequences of wave climates, where a sequence comprised of 6–13 sequential tests, each commencing with the beach profile from the preceding test. Each test was run until equilibrium conditions were obtained and had a constant wave height, increased or decreased relative to the preceding test. Cyclical conditions were also included, with erosive and accretive wave conditions of short durations alternating through multiple cycles, so that equilibrium conditions were not reached during a test. With a sequence of increasing wave heights, the relationship between the shoreline position and the bulk cross-shore sediment transport, at equilibrium, was non-monotonic, indicating a maximum in the landward sediment transport rate. For test series comprised of a sequence of increasing wave heights followed by a sequence of decreasing wave heights, morphological hysteresis was observed in the equilibrium shoreline position and bulk cross-shore sediment transport, such that shoreline recession, or offshore transport, continued in some instances after reductions in wave height. This is inconsistent with classical equilibrium type shoreline evolution models. However, when equilibrium conditions were not reached, in the cyclic sequences, no such morphological hysteresis was observed and a dynamic equilibrium is reached. The morphological hysteresis occurs because of the decay, stranding, or increased relative depth, of the breaker bar following a reduction in wave height, often in conjunction with a new breaker bar generated by further offshore transport in the inner surf zone. Similar sequences of morphological response are evident in field data and larger scale tests in the literature. Finally, it is shown that the morphological hysteresis can be explained using the classical equilibrium beach state model of Wright et al. (1985) by introducing the concept of a subsequent alternate active beach state, which may occur following a change in wave conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal dunes provide many ecosystem services including protection of infrastructure from wave overtopping and habitat for native species. Foredunes grow at different rates and assume different forms (i.e., short and wide to tall and narrow) depending on a range of factors including pre-existing beach and dune morphology, wind, wave, and water levels, sediment grain size, and vegetation characteristics, yet the relative importance of these factors on foredune growth is understudied. Here, we quantify foredune evolution (2016–2019) and explore the relative influence of a suite of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors for dune growth on three barrier islands in the U.S. North Carolina Outer Banks (Cape Lookout National Seashore). We incorporate observed and hindcast wind, wave, and water level data into the process-based, coupled beach-dune evolution model, Windsurf, to explore the relative contribution of factors likely to influence foredune growth at the annual timescale (2016–2017). Our cross-shore topographic profile observations show varied interannual foredune change rates and characteristics, including horizontal retreat and progradation at the dune toe and vertical erosion and accretion at the dune crest. Model results indicate that, of the factors explored, pre-existing morphology had the greatest influence on the type of foredune growth that occurred (i.e., incipient dune development, widening of the dune, and/or vertical accretion), which dramatically altered the final shape of the dune. Variations in wind and wave climates were associated with the relative contribution of marine- and aeolian-driven bed elevation changes and were particularly influential during storms. In addition, increases in the minimum elevation of vegetation on the dune profile (analogous to the cross-shore distance between the shoreline and established vegetation line, i.e., the vegetation limit, as coined by Duran and Moore, 2013) increased dune crest height and dune volume. Moreover, variations in the minimum vegetation elevation resulted in a larger range of dune crest elevations and dune volumes than differences in the median sand grain size. We suggest that insights into the relative influence of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors to dune growth can assist in the development of practical coastal management strategies. • Pre-existing beach-dune morphology had the largest influence on dune growth type. • Exposure to the dominant wave direction led to increased dune volume. • Higher minimum vegetation elevation and finer sand resulted in taller dunes. • Minimum vegetation elevation influenced dune growth more than sand grain size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The swash zone largely influences nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics through dissipating or reflecting wave energy and controlling whether sediment will be stored on the upper beach or returned to the inner surf zone. It is a region where active beach accretion and erosion occur and beach protection measures such as sand nourishments are often placed. Hence, proper prediction of swash zone beach evolution is required to evaluate beach management scenarios. This paper describes the advances related to swash zone sand transport processes and morphodynamics. We discuss the effects of a variety of physical processes and factors (e.g. bore turbulence, pre-suspended sediment advection, wave-swash interactions, infragravity waves, in−/exfiltration, pressure gradient and bed slope) on sand transport in the swash zone. We then focus on practical models of swash zone sand transport which are appropriate for predicting longer term (days to years) beach evolutions. Three types of practical models, i.e. empirical sand transport formulae, sand transport distribution methods and equilibrium models, are identified. The strengths and limitations of these practical models are discussed. The empirical sand transport formulae include the intra-swash formulae and swash-averaged formulae. The intra-swash formulae are more physics-based and can take physical processes into account more explicitly. However, upscaling of them for modelling sand transport and morphological changes over tidal cycles or longer term is problematic due to the difficulty in obtaining reliable and accurate instantaneous swash hydrodynamics(e.g. flow velocities) and due to the error propagation. Swash-averaged formulae can be more suitable for predicting longer-term morphological changes while they still require better parameterisations of important physical processes (e.g. wave-swash interactions). Sand transport distribution methods generally work reasonably well for beach erosion under energetic wave conditions whereas they have the inability to predict the beach recovery under mild wave conditions. Equilibrium models show a potential for predicting the beach evolution under both erosive and accretive conditions well. The equilibrium slope appears to be an essential factor that largely determines the performance of the equilibrium models. This equilibrium slope should depend on wave conditions and sediment characteristics, and a quantitative relationship between them needs further research in order to make the equilibrium models more predictive. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Experimental results involving shoreface nourishment scenarios are presented. The experiments are performed at small scale and the effects of nourishment placement and timing in relation to long-term cross-shore profile development are investigated. Four different nourishment scenarios are tested experimentally, with nourishment positioned both in the trough of a pre-developed profile as well as along the bar of the profile. The results demonstrate that under all scenarios the erosion of the shoreline slows relative to the case without nourishment. The two cases where the nourishment was placed along the bar reduced erosion of the shoreline more compared to the two cases with nourishment in the trough onshore of the bar. Compared to past experiments on nourishment presented in the literature, the present experiments were run for a longer duration, and the concepts of equilibrium profile and the development towards such an equilibrium were investigated. Curiously, the experiments showed a reversal of the sediment transport rate from being primarily offshore directed across the entire profile to onshore directed in the inner surf zone region closest to the shoreline. This reversal of transport rate occurred without changing the incoming wave conditions and resulted in deposition at the shoreline. This either questions the existence of equilibrium beach profiles or at the very least shows that the development towards such an equilibrium will not always be monotonic in time. • Shoreface nourishments are performed at model scale investigating the influence of timing and placement on long term profile development. • Placement of nourishment can disturb the cross-shore profile shape over long time. • After long time running with the same wave climate the transport rate changed from offshore directed to onshore directed in the inner surf zone. • The change in sign was related to cessation of wave-breaking and resulted in sand returning to an otherwise eroding beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach accretion is the natural mechanism that allows dry beaches to recover. Human response to climate change produces hardening of the coasts and the incident marine climate, which increases beach erosion produced during winter and prevents a full recovery during summer. Beach nourishments are performed all around the world to fight coastal erosion with a nature-friendly philosophy. Softer techniques as beach scraping are also widely applied. A kind of beach scraping is proposed here as an innovative nature-assisted beach enhancement technique, that aims to accelerate naturally produced sand accretion on the beach profile. It consists of mechanically ploughing the intertidal area of a beach to create ridges and furrows. Prototype-scale laboratory experiments were performed to analyse its effectiveness under controlled conditions. Seven 1 h tests having different water levels and the same initial bottom geometry and sea state conditions (H s = 0.3 m, T p = 7 s) were performed. Sea state, sand, and initial slope characteristics assured accretive conditions. Ploughed and flatbed initial slope geometries were simultaneously tested into two sub-channels of the wave flume. The results indicate that the bottom roughness is 3.57 times larger for the ploughed geometry. Consequently, wave energy dissipation is larger for the ploughed geometry, and therefore, the significant wave height at the shoreward end of the study area is 11% smaller for the ploughed geometry. This smaller wave height under the ploughed morphology leads to more accretive conditions, as observed from the measured onshore sediment transport, which is 2.9 times larger than the natural transport, and the larger accreted sediment volume in all seven test cases. These results demonstrate the effectiveness of ploughing to enhance natural beach accretion under highly probable accretion conditions. Further research is required to define the thresholds of marine conditions in which the potential of beach ploughing can be exploded. • Working with nature. • Ploughing the intertidal area of a beach enhances natural accretion. • Real scale laboratory experiments measuring sediment transport. • Mechanically ploughing increases bed roughness. • Extra wave energy dissipation is produced by ploughing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Estuarine beaches often lack well developed surf zones; incident waves break and convert directly to swash on the steep foreshore, resulting in greater influence of the swash zone in generating longshore flows and sediment transport. This study was conducted to evaluate longshore sediment transport in the swash zone of an eroding estuarine beach and relate transport rates to changes in beach position and volume downdrift of a shore-perpendicular structure. Field data were gathered on a sandy beach on the bay side of Fire Island, New York, USA in a short fetch (12–15 km) microtidal (mean range 0.21 m) environment. Wave and swash processes, beach changes and sediment tracer and trapping experiments were conducted during strong onshore winds in March and April 2012. Daily topographic surveys of the beach revealed pulses of sediment movement alongshore at small temporal (daily) and spatial (5 m) scales. The mid foreshore retreated 2.75 m from the beginning to the end of the 24 days of monitoring. This retreat was associated with a loss of 2.1 m 3 of sediment per meter of shoreline length. The greatest amount of foreshore retreat during a single storm event was 1.27 m, associated with a volume loss of 0.9 m 3 of sediment per meter. Mean wind speed on that day was 11.3 m s − 1 with a maximum of 18.2 m s − 1 ; significant offshore wave height at the time of maximum wind speed was 0.30 m. Mean significant wave heights ranged from 0.12 to 0.26 m during the five times when trapping occurred, resulting in mean longshore swash velocities of 0.08 to 0.23 m s − 1 and transport rates ranging from 0.413 to 1.516 m 3 h − 1 . The longshore sediment transport rates are similar to rates gathered under similar longshore current velocities on microtidal low energy beaches. Transport rates on beaches in sheltered environments can differ from rates calculated using existing formulas that may be more appropriate for high-energy beaches, where a greater proportion of sediment is transported in the surf zone than in the energetic swash zone under plunging breakers. Transport rates calculated from three existing formulae (Bagnold, 1963, CERC, 1984, Kamphuis, 2002) revealed that estimates from Bagnold compared most favorably with measured rates because of direct measurements of longshore current velocities. Rates of erosion on beaches in short fetch environments can be high despite low wave energies because the low, narrow beaches have little volume, magnifying the importance of seemingly low rates of transport in the swash. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A moderate-size (344,000 m3) subaerial beach nourishment was placed in 2012 in front of flood-prone homes at Imperial Beach, California. The subaerially persistent coarser-than-native nourishment sand spread alongshore over a ∼ 4 km span. By winter 2018/19 subaerial sand volumes in front of the flood-prone homes were eroded to near pre-nourishment levels, while sand accumulated near a river mouth ∼ 1.5 km to the south. The observed alongshore patterns of post-nourishment erosion/accretion are consistent with the modeled convergence/divergence of alongshore currents driven by wave radiation stress S x y gradients associated with refraction over a relic cobble ebb shoal. The same alongshore patterns of subaerial erosion/accretion were observed in the 6 years preceding the nourishment, indicating a wave-driven erosion hotspot in front of the flood-prone homes, and an accretion hotspot near the region of river mouth migration. Over the 13-yr observation period, the river mouth migrated 600 m southward and closed in 2016, possibly owing to nourishment sand and El Niño intensified local drift convergence. The computationally efficient drift (radiation stress) gradient model uses simplified wave and surfzone dynamics, assumes proportionality between alongshore sediment transport and the radiation stress component S x y , but nevertheless captures the overall patterns of alongshore nourishment evolution and provides a framework to inform sand management. • The subaerial influence of relatively coarse beach nourishment sand spans 4 km of coast 6 years after placement. • Accretion and erosion hotspots are persistent, 6 years before and after nourishment. • A simple drift divergence model that captures refraction over an ebb shoal describes the alongshore variable sand volume trends. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shorelines bordering ebb deltas are often subject to deformation by the approach and attachment of ebb-tidal shoals. Although this is a common behaviour, little attention has been paid to the link between shoal migration and the multi-annual development of the adjacent beach-dune system. This study aims to understand beach-dune systems' behaviour during the approach phase of an ebb-tidal shoal attachment event. Topographic and bathymetric data of the barrier island of Texel (NL) was used to calculate shoreline position, beach and dune volume, dunefoot position, and shoal displacement rates. Two classical beach-dune interaction models were used to understand the observed behaviour: the surfzone-beach-dune model and the sediment budget model. The analysis revealed how a larger bank on the land-facing side of the ebb delta split into two smaller shoals with different morphological behaviours. One of the shoals (S1) moved consistently landwards, recently attaching the shore, whereas the second shoal (S2) is still evolving and presents a milder landward movement than S1. In parallel to the landward movement of S1, the adjacent coastline was subject to erosion, partially counterbalanced by nourishments. However, despite the erosion, dunes are growing in volume, suggesting a net positive transfer of sand from the beach to the dunes. In the surfzone-beach-dune model, regular nourishments positively affect beach state by maintaining sufficient beach size for aeolian sediment transport and reducing shoreline erosion. In the budget model, dune volume growth may occur despite a slightly negative beach budget. Framing Texel in the budget model implies that the beach budget before the start of the approach phase is crucial in defining the behaviour of the dune system during this phase. If the shoal approach significantly reduces the beach budget, the system may cross the budget threshold that dune building is possible. Thus, the dune system may evolve to an erosional state, including dune ridge dissection and blowout development. Hence, nourishments have been essential in keeping the current morphological state during the attachment of the shoal, as they restrict the system from crossing the negative morphological threshold. Thus, without the nourishments, beach erosion driven by the shoal might have led to morphological changes in the dune system that could lead to years of a weakened level of protection until foredune recovery after attachment. • Shoal-induced changes in beach budget influence dune development. • Dune morphology may change depending on the beach state prior to attachment. • Nourishments can retain beach budget at a sufficient level to maintain dune morphology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Estimating sediment budget is a challenge that requires understanding the morphological relationship between the subaerial beach and the upper and lower shoreface. Based on a unique dataset of monthly measured topographic and bathymetric measurements, this study describes the morphodynamics of the subaerial and subtidal sections of a highly-dynamic beach over a 5-year period (2015–2020). Typically, the beach presents a longshore bar trough (LBT) state at the end of the winter, driven by net offshore sediment transport. The nearshore morphology evolves into more reflective states (rhythmic bar beach, RBB; transverse bar rip, TBR; and low tide terrace, LTT) driven by onshore sediment transport when the incident wave-energy decreases over the spring and summer. Seasonal variations of the incident wave-energy resulted in large subaerial-subtidal exchanges of sediment (200–300 m3 m−1), but these exchanges were an order of magnitude smaller in yearly scales. Subaerial and upper-shoreface morphological changes varied alongshore. Larger variations existed in the south, influenced by persistent rip channels. Instead, alongshore processes resulting from changes in wave direction may control the morphodynamics in the center and north. The subtidal section in north and center gained significant amount of sand (300 m3 m−1) during high-energy conditions, which contributed to a net annual gain of 60 m3 m−1. The origin of that sediment is currently unknown, it could have bypassed from an adjacent beach, shifted alongshore or inputted from the lower shoreface deeper than the depth of closure. This research shows the presence of very large monthly-to-seasonal total volume fluctuations relative to net annual or multi-annual changes, and highlights that comparatively small additions to the annual sediment budget could potentially contribute to the long-term stability of the beach. • Largest morphological variations in the south influenced by persistent rip channels. • Very large monthly-to-seasonal volume fluctuations relative to net annual changes. • Small additions to the annual budget could contribute to long-term beach stability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Accurate, unbiased, high-resolution (in space and time) nearshore wave predictions are needed to drive models of beach erosion; coastal flooding; and alongshore transport of sediment, biota, and pollutants. On sheltered shorelines, wave predictions are sensitive to the directions of onshore propagating waves, and nearshore model prediction error is often dominated by directional uncertainty offshore. Here, regional wave model skill in highly sheltered Southern California is compared for different offshore boundary conditions created from offshore buoy observations and global wave model hindcasts [NOAA WaveWatch III (WW3)]. Spectral ray-tracing methods are used to transform incident offshore swell (0.04-0.09 Hz) energy at high directional resolution (1°). Model skill is assessed for predictions (wave height, direction, directional spread, and alongshore radiation stress) at 16 nearshore buoy sites between 2000 and 2009. Buoy-derived boundary conditions using various estimators (maximum entropy, maximum smoothness) have similar skill and all outperform WW3-derived boundary conditions. A new method for estimating offshore boundary conditions, CMB-ADJ, combines buoy observations with WW3 predictions. Although CMB-ADJ skill is comparable to buoy-only methods, it may be more robust in varying regions and wave climatologies, and will benefit from future improvements in global wave model (GWM) predictions. A case study at Oceanside Harbor shows strong sensitivity of alongshore sediment transport estimates to the boundary condition method. However, patterns in alongshore gradients of transport (e.g., the location of model accretion and erosion zones) are similar across methods. Weak, tidally modulated coastal reflection is evident in both shallow and deep buoy observations, and significantly increases the observed directional spread. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Kaoru, T. and Udo, K., 2016. Analysis of beach erosion because of the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 1252 - 1256. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami caused the disappearance of beaches over a wide area because of inundation accompanying the land subsidence caused by the earthquake and because of tsunami erosion. This study aims to investigate the general characteristics of the 2011 earthquake and tsunami and identify the factors that caused beach damage. The study focuses on 74 beaches from Aomori Prefecture to Chiba Prefecture, including those where the damage was insignificant. Satellite and aerial image analyses demonstrated that the main factor in beach disappearance was not inundation following land subsidence caused by the earthquake but erosion because of sediment transport by the tsunami. There were many cases where a significant increase in the amount of beach retreat occurred when the tsunami overflowed a seawall, leading to the collapse of the seawall. It was also quantitatively confirmed that beach erosion could have been significantly reduced by the survival of the seawall. Three years after the 2011 tsunami and earthquake, the recovery rates differed between beaches on the Sanriku coast and those in other areas. The rate was ≤25% for many beaches on the Sanriku coast of the Rias terrain and ≥75% throughout the south of the Sendai plain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Lim, H.S.; Chun, I.; Shim, J.S., and Kim, C.S., 2016. Wave-induced current simulated by wave-current coupled model in Haeundae. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 1392 - 1396. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The wave-induced current in Haeundae, at the southeastern end of the Korean Peninsula, is one of the main causes of beach erosion. The Korean government recently initiated a beach restoration project for Haeundae beach to protect the famous beach against wave-induced currents generated by waves during summer and winter. To mitigate beach erosion, two submerged breakwaters and a sand nourishment program were initiated in 2013. With the support of the Korean government, we have also started an R&D project to develop coastal erosion control technology in order to understand the processes of beach erosion by measuring sediment transport and hydrodynamics in Haeundae coastal waters, including the development of a numerical simulation method. The aim of this study is to understand the main processes of wave-induced currents that cause erosion at Haeundae beach by considering wave and tide interactions, using a wave-current coupled model compared with long-term observed wave and current data. We found that the cross-shore current during summer is mainly caused by the eddies produced by wave-induced currents generated by strong high waves during a Typhoon approaching from the SSW and S directions. During other seasons, a longshore current is produced by swell waves coming from the E and ESE directions. In comparisons with the measured data, we also found that the wave-induced current is well simulated by a wave-tide coupled model in Haeundae with a coastal environment of wave and tide interaction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]