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Copyright of International Journal of Cosmetic Science is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

It is well recognized that the world population is ageing rapidly. Therefore, it is important to understand ageing processes at the cellular and molecular levels to predict the onset of age‐related diseases and prevent them. Recent research has focused on the identification of ageing biomarkers, including those associated with the properties of the Golgi apparatus. In this context, Golgi‐mediated glycosylation of proteins has been well characterized. Additionally, other studies show that the secretion of many compounds, including pro‐inflammatory cytokines and extracellular matrix–degrading enzymes, is modified during ageing, resulting in physical and functional skin degradation. Since the Golgi apparatus is a central organelle of the secretory pathway, we investigated its structural organization in senescent primary human dermal fibroblasts using confocal and electron microscopy. In addition, we monitored the expression of Golgi‐related genes in the same cells. Our data showed a marked alteration in the Golgi morphology during replicative senescence. In contrast to its small and compact structure in non‐senescent cells, the Golgi apparatus exhibited a large and expanded morphology in senescent fibroblasts. Our data also demonstrated that the expression of many genes related to Golgi structural integrity and function was significantly modified in senescent cells, suggesting a relationship between Golgi apparatus function and ageing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The stinging test is an in vivo protocol that evaluates sensitive skin using lactic acid (LA). A soothing sensation of cosmetics or ingredients can be also appreciated through a decrease in stinging score. To predict the soothing sensation of a product before in vivo testing, we developed a model based on an LA test and substance P (SP) release using a co-culture of human keratinocytes and NGF-differentiated PC12 cells. A bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide present in Fucogel® was evaluated as the soothing molecule in the in vivo stinging test and our in vitro model. Excluding toxic concentrations, the release of SP was significant from 0.2% of lactic acid for the PC12 cells and from 0.1% of lactic acid for the keratinocytes. When the pH was adjusted to approximately 7.4, LA did not provoke SP release. At these concentrations of LA, 0.1% of polysaccharide showed a significant decrease in SP release from the two cellular types and in co-cultures without modifying the pH of the medium. In vivo, a stinging test using the polysaccharide showed a 30% decrease in prickling intensity vs the placebo in 19 women between the ages of 21 and 69. Our in vitro model is ethically interesting and is adapted for cosmetic ingredients screening because it does not use animal experimentation and limits human volunteers. Moreover, Fucogel® reduced prickling sensation as revealed by the in vivo stinging test and inhibits the neurogenic inflammation as showed by our new in vitro stinging test based on SP release. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article presents abstracts on cosmetic science including, use of digital video recording in the detection of nicotinic acid ester flushing response, use of open vs. closed chamber devices in the comparison of transepidermal water loss measurements, and generating three dimensional human skin equivalents under submerged conditions.