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The protection against a storm event provided by nourishment to Costa da Caparica beaches near Lisbon, Portugal, is investigated numerically with a two-dimensional-horizontal morphodynamic model able to generate and propagate the longer infragravity waves. The beach has a groyne field and a multi-typology backshore. The nourishment of 106 m3 of sand was placed at the beach face and backshore. Pre- and post-nourishment topo-bathymetric surveys of the beach, which suffers from chronic erosion, were performed under a monitoring program. The morphodynamics of the pre- and post-nourished beach when exposed to a simulated historically damaging storm event and the post-storm morphologies were compared to evaluate the efficacy of the nourishment. Results indicate that the lower surface level of the beach face and backshore of the pre-nourished beach induces a larger erosion volume. The nourishment prevented the extreme retreat of the shoreline that occurred during the storm in the pre-nourished beach and reduced the storm-induced erosion volume by 20%, thus protecting the beach effectively against the storm. The beach backshore typology (seawall vs. dune) exerts differential influences on the sandy bottom. As a result, multi-typology backshores induce alongshore variability in cross-shore dynamics. The backshore seawalls exposed to direct wave action cause higher erosion volumes and a larger cross-shore extension of the active zone. The most vulnerable alongshore sectors of the beach were identified and related to the mechanisms responsible for the erosion phenomenon. These findings strengthen the importance of sand nourishment for the protection and sustainability of beaches, particularly those with a seawall at the backshore, where storm events cause higher erosion.

This study aims to investigate the hydrodynamic-morphological interactions on a microtidal intermediate-dissipative beach under low to moderate wave energy conditions using field measurements during two climatic seasons. The separate contributions of currents, sea-swell waves, and infragravity waves to high- and low-frequency sediment fluxes were analyzed. The infragravity wave energy was more relevant near the swash zone than in other areas. Although the currents are the primary suspended sediment transport mechanism, the results suggest that the waves are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed. The results indicate that Sea-Swell (SS) waves and cross-shore currents are the prevailing hydrodynamic factors in nearshore sediment transport, and the cross-shore suspended sediment transport rates are higher than those in alongshore transport. The submerged bar intensified during the wet season (1–4 November 2018) when the wave height intensities were lower, contrary to the dry season (24–25 March 2018). Significant accretion nearshore was identified (in the subaerial beach) during the wet season when the suspended sediments were greater, the SS-wave heights nearshore were lower, and sediment flux was directed onshore. A notorious erosion was distinguished during the dry season. The most representative volume changes occurred during the dry season (with high erosion), which is attributed to the high SS-wave energy.

Coastal erosion poses significant challenges to shoreline management, exacerbated by rising sea levels and changing climate patterns. This study investigates the influence of gap spacing between semicircular coastal defence structures on shoreline dynamics during storm events. The innovative design of these structures aims to induce a drift reversal of prevalent sediment transport while avoiding interruption of alongshore sediment drift, thus protecting the beach. Three different gap spacings, ranging from 152 m to 304 m, were analysed using the XBeach numerical model, focusing on storm morphodynamic behaviour. Methodologically, hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses were conducted to understand variations in significant wave heights adjacent to the structures, in accretion and erosion volumes, and changes in bed level under storm conditions. The study aims to elucidate the complex interaction between engineered coastal protection solutions and natural coastal processes, providing practical insights for coastal management practices. Results indicate that installing semicircular coastal defence structures influences sediment dynamics during storm events, effectively protecting stretches of the coast at risk. Optimal gap spacing between structures is crucial to mitigating coastal erosion and enhancing sediment accumulation, offering a sustainable shoreline protection approach. The findings underscore the importance of balanced location selection to optimize protection benefits while minimizing adverse morphological effects. Overall, this research contributes to advancing knowledge of hydro-morphological phenomena essential for effective coastal engineering and informs the design and implementation of more sustainable coastal protection strategies in the face of increasing coastal erosion and sea level rise challenges.

Due to the significant mismatch in timescales associated with morphological and hydrodynamic processes in coastal environments, modellers typically resort to various techniques for speeding up the bed evolution in morphodynamic simulations. In this paper, we propose a novel method that differs from existing ones in several aspects. For example, unlike previous approaches that apply a global measure (such as a constant acceleration factor that uniformly amplifies the bed evolution everywhere), we track and extrapolate local trends in morphological changes. The present algorithm requires the setting of four different parameters, values for which we set through an extensive calibration process. The proposed method is compared against the simple acceleration technique built into the popular software XBeach (wherein it is called morfac) for eight different beach profiles (including linear, Dean, and measured profiles). While the accuracy of both methods is generally similar, the proposed algorithm consistently shows a greater reduction in computational time relative to morfac, with our algorithm-accelerated simulations being on average 2.6 times faster than morfac. In light of these results, and considering the algorithm’s potential for easy generalisation to address arbitrary coastal morphodynamic problems, we believe that this method represents an important addition to the toolbox available to the community interested in coastal modelling.

Offshore anthropogenic activities such as the installation of Offshore Renewable Energy (ORE) developments and sediment extraction for marine aggregates have been shown to disrupt current flow, wave propagation, and sediment transport pathways, leading to potential environmental instability. Due to the complexity of the interconnected sediment transport pathways in the south-western Irish Sea combined with an increase in planned anthropogenic activities, the assessment of this risk is imperative for the development of a robust marine spatial plan. Subsequently, this study uses two-dimensional morphological modelling to build upon previous studies to assess the dependency of Arklow Bank’s local sediment transport regime on external sediment sources. Additionally, scenario modelling is used to identify vulnerable areas of this offshore linear sand bank to wind and wave-forcing and to examine the nature of this impact. A sediment budget is estimated for Arklow Bank, whereby seven source and nine sink pathways are identified. New evidence to support the exchange of sediment between offshore sand banks and offshore independent sand wave fields is also provided. The areas of the bank most vulnerable to changes in external sediment sources and the addition of wind- and wave-induced flow are analogous. These high vulnerability zones (HVZs) align with regions of residual cross-flow under pure current conditions. The restriction of sediment sources off the southern extent of Arklow Bank impacts erosion and accretion patterns in the mid- and northern sections of the bank after just one lunar month of simulation. Where tidal current is the primary driver of sand bank morphodynamics, wind- and wave-induced flow is shown to temporarily alter sediment distribution patterns. Wind and wave-induced flow can both accelerate and decelerate the east-west fluctuation of the upper slopes of the bank, yet the nature of this impact is inconsistent due to the misalignment of the directionality of these two forces. The methods and new knowledge derived from this study are directly applicable to tidally-dominated environments outside the Irish Sea.

Coastal and estuarine morphogenetic evolution has been affected by anthropogenic activities. Human activities have become an important external force for the future prediction of morphological evolution in ecosystem health. We have reviewed the existing literature on modelling the impacts of human activities on morphological changes. Three types of approaches (the application of coastal-area morphodynamic models, equilibrium modelling, and machine learning) are introduced collaboratively to complement each other. The Bayes network of machine learning approaches can be used to include the uncertainties of forces and the intrinsic limitations of the models. Future research should consider the bio-morphodynamic effects of human activities, as human activities have significantly damaged the ecosystem. Modelling morphodynamic processes in benthic communities, as well as feedback to morphodynamics, appears to be increasingly important for ecosystem protection and restoration. From the perspective of a longer time span, the feedback of morphodynamics for human activities should be considered in the modelling, which requires better quantification and understanding of human–nature interactions.

Remote sensing plays a central role in the assessment of environmental phenomena and has increasingly become a powerful tool for monitoring shorelines, river morphology, flood-wave delineation and flood assessment. Optical-based monitoring and the characterization of river evolution at long time scales is a key tool in fluvial geomorphology. However, the evolution occurring during extreme events is crucial for the understanding of the river dynamics under severe flow conditions and requires the processing of data from active sensors to overcome cloud obstructions. This work proposes a cloud-based unsupervised algorithm for the intra-event monitoring of river dynamics during extreme flow conditions based on the time series of Sentinel-1 SAR data. The method allows the extraction of multi-temporal series of spatially explicit geometric parameters at high temporal and spatial resolutions, linking them to the hydrometric levels acquired by reference gauge stations. The intra-event reconstruction of inundation dynamics has led to (1) the estimation of the relationship between hydrometric level and wet area extension and (2) the assessment of bank erosion phenomena. In the first case, the behavior exhibits a change when the hydrometric level exceeds 1 m. In the second case, the erosion rate and cumulative lateral erosion were evaluated. The maximum erosion velocity was greater than 1 m/h, while the cumulative lateral erosion reached 130 m. Time series of SAR acquisitions, provided by Sentinel-1 satellites, were analyzed to quantify changes in the wet area of a reach of the Tagliamento river under different flow conditions. The algorithm, developed within the Python-API of GEE, can support many types of analyses of river dynamics, including morphological changes, floods monitoring, and bio-physical habitat dynamics. The results encourage future advancements and applications of the algorithm, specifically exploring SAR data from ICEYE and Capella Space constellations, which offer significantly higher spatial and temporal resolutions compared to Sentinel-1 data.

Rho-GTPases are central regulators within a complex signaling network that controls cytoskeletal organization and cell movement. The network includes multiple GTPases, such as the most studied Rac1, Cdc42, and RhoA, along with their numerous effectors that provide mutual regulation through feedback loops. Here we investigate the temporal and spatial relationship between Rac1 and Cdc42 during membrane ruffling, using a simulation model that couples GTPase signaling with cell morphodynamics and captures the GTPase behavior observed with FRET-based biosensors. We show that membrane velocity is regulated by the kinetic rate of GTPase activation rather than the concentration of active GTPase. Our model captures both uniform and polarized ruffling. We also show that cell-type specific time delays between Rac1 and Cdc42 activation can be reproduced with a single signaling motif, in which the delay is controlled by feedback from Cdc42 to Rac1. The resolution of our simulation output matches those of time-lapsed recordings of cell dynamics and GTPase activity. Our data-driven modeling approach allows us to validate simulation results with quantitative precision using the same pipeline for the analysis of simulated and experimental data.

The detection and mapping of riverscapes with Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs, drones) provide detailed, reliable, and operable spatial information in hydrological sciences, enhancing conventional field survey techniques. In this study, we present the results of long-term, optical RGB (red, green, blue) UAV monitoring of stream restoration projects to identify the positive and negative features that affect their sustainability. We determined quantitative and qualitative aspects of restoration, such as the restoration effect, the dynamics of fluvial processes, hydrological connectivity, and riparian vegetation. The study was based on six years of UAV monitoring in three restored streams in Prague, Czech Republic. The multitemporal riverscape models from the photogrammetric reconstruction served as a basis for the visual assessment, compliant with the standard hydromorphological assessment. Such a combined approach extends the potential of UAV monitoring by allowing for the use of existing classification schemes and data and the objective detection of critical features. The study pointed to the significant discrepancies in channel geometry between the planned restorations and realized restorations in all assessed projects as a general phenomenon. Multitemporal, optical RGB UAV monitoring then detected issues in qualitative aspects that limit restoration quality, such as water overuse, extensive eutrophication, or inefficient riparian shading.

Shipwrecks are important cultural heritage sites offshore. In many instances, given their often long-term emplacement on the seafloor, they offer natural laboratories to study complex interactions between human-induced obstacles and seabed dynamics. Such interactions and induced sediment mobility also pose significant threats to offshore engineering infrastructure, such as turbine monopile foundations. Traditional methods can struggle to capture the nuance of these processes, with real-world surveys measuring effects only after installation, and laboratory models suffering from scale-down inaccuracies. Computational fluid dynamics (CFD) modelling offers an effective means of investigating the effects of obstacles on seabed dynamics, and by using shipwrecks as proxies for infrastructure, it can utilize long-term datasets to verify its predictions. In this study, high-resolution temporal bathymetric data were used in, and to verify, CFD modelling to investigate the interactions between hydro- and sediment dynamics at a shipwreck site in a tidally dominated wreck site. From this comparison, simulations of bed shear stress and scalar transport correlate well with known areas of erosion and deposition, serving as a basis for future scour prediction studies and creating effective tools in offshore renewable infrastructure planning and de-risking.

Dunelands are one of the most dynamic environments on Earth, which greatly hinders their conservation and management. In the dune slacks along the Manawatū coast, New Zealand, lies a zone of small, temporary, freshwater wetlands that host early seral communities of rare turf plants. Analysis of historical aerial photos allowed determination of coastline movement, distance of the wetlands from the coast, and wetland movements through time. Study sites were around the coastal settlements of Tangimoana and Foxton Beach, both having major rivers debouching nearby, and Himatangi, amongst stabilising exotic pine plantations. The coastline is prograding (with seaward movement) generally by 0.7–1 m yr−1, but is more variable closer to river mouths, with episodes of movement of up to 15 m yr−1. Wetlands occur 200–400 m behind the strandline, are closer to the coast at Foxton Beach, and furthest away at Himatangi. Wetlands wobble in their position at 5.2 m yr−1 but migrate inland at an average of 2.7 m yr−1. Wetland size appears unrelated to rainfall, but may be related positively to coastal progradation rate, to which wetland movement is negatively related. Near the major rivers, dunes are less stable, and wetlands can be impacted both positively and negatively. Wetland existence and movement is balanced between stability and dynamism on the coast, and management will need to be proactive to maintain environments for early successional turfs.

Objectives of this study are to evaluate the performance of different satellite-derived bathymetry (SDB) empirical models developed for multispectral satellite mission applications and to propose an uncertainty model based on inferential statistics. The study site is the Arcachon Bay inlet (France). A dataset composed of 450,837 echosounder data points and 89 Sentinel-2 A/B and Landsat-8 images acquired from 2013 to 2020, is generated to test and validate SDB and uncertainty models for various contrasting optical conditions. Results show that water column optical properties are characterized by a high spatio-temporal variability controlled by hydrodynamics and seasonal conditions. The best performance and highest robustness are found for the cluster-based approach using a green band log-linear regression model. A total of 80 satellite images can be exploited to calibrate SDB models, providing average values of root mean square error and maximum bathymetry of 0.53 m and 7.3 m, respectively. The uncertainty model, developed to extrapolate information beyond the calibration dataset, is based on a multi-scene approach. The sensitivity of the model to the optical variability not explained by the calibration dataset is demonstrated but represents a risk of error of less than 5%. Finally, the uncertainty model applied to a diachronic analysis definitively demonstrates the interest in SDB maps for a better understanding of morphodynamic evolutions of large-scale and complex coastal systems.

Island beaches, which form significant natural and economic resources, are under increasing erosion risk due to sea level rise. The present contribution proposes an integrated methodological framework for the evaluation of the socio-economic significance of beaches and their vulnerability to sea level rise and the design of effective adaptation measures. The approach comprises four steps: (i) beach ranking on the basis of their socio-economic significance and vulnerability in order to prioritize adaptation responses; (ii) monitoring of the hydro- and morphodynamic regime of the most highly ranking beaches using field observations and modelling, (iii) assessment of the sediment volumes required for beach nourishment under different scenarios of sea level rise and nourishment designs; (iv) evaluation of the marine aggregate potential of the adjacent areas that can be used for beach nourishment. The framework was applied to the Greek island of Chios, which has many beaches that are already under erosion. The methodology was shown to provide a structured approach for the assessment and response to erosion of the most vulnerable beach.

Coastal erosion at Saint Louis in Senegal is affecting the local population that consists of primarily fishermen communities in their housing and their access to the sea. This paper aims at quantifying urban beach erosion at Saint Louis, Senegal, West Africa which is located on the northern end of the 13 km long Langue de Barbarie sand spit. The coastal evolution is examined quantitatively over a yearly period using Pleiades sub-metric satellite imagery that allows for stereogrammetry to derive Digital Elevation Models (DEMs). The comparison with ground truth data shows sub-metric differences to the satellite DEMs. Despite its interest in remote areas and developing countries that cannot count on regular surveys, the accuracy of the satellite-derived topography is in the same order as the coastal change itself, which emphasizes its current limitations. These 3D data are combined with decades-long regular Landsat and Sentinel-2 imagery derived shorelines. These observations reveal that the sand spit is stretching, narrowing at its Northern part while it is lengthening downdrift Southward, independently from climatological changes in the wave regime. A parametric model based on a stochastic cyclic sand spit behaviour allows for predicting the next northern opening of a breach and the urban erosion at Saint Louis.

In this paper, we unravel the mechanisms responsible for the development of the two-channel system in the Outer Weser Estuary. A process-based morphodynamic model is built based on a flat-bed approach using simplified boundary conditions and accelerated morphological development. The results are analyzed in two steps: first, by checking for morphodynamic equilibrium in the simulations and second, by applying a newly developed method that interprets simulations based on categorization of the two-channel system and cross-sectional correlation analysis. All simulations reach a morphodynamic equilibrium and develop two channels that vary considerably over time and between the simulations. Variations can be found in the location and depth of the two channels, the development of the dominant channel over time and the alteration in the dominance pattern. The conclusions are that the development of the two-channel system is mainly caused by the tides and the basin geometry. Furthermore, it is shown that the alternation pattern and period are dependent on the dominance of the tides compared to the influence of river discharge.

Beach scarps are commonly associated with nourishment. Large and persistent beach scarps not only affect the performance of beach nourishment, but also are safety hazards to tourists. In this study, the morphological evolution of beach scarps was examined at a nourished beach in a low-energy and micro-tidal environment. Topographic surveys of nine beach profiles were carried out every 3–6 months after nourishment, lasting for nearly 4.5 years, combined with observed and simulated hydrodynamic data. The results showed that beach scarps were extensively developed after nourishment and migrated landward gradually. The formation of beach scarps was attributed to the higher designed berm, while the migration was possibly initiated by the subsequent higher total water level connected with the irregular tides. However, scarps were completely removed by the first post-nourishment severe storm and had been long absent ever since although two other energetic storms approached. This was different from the result of previous studies, which could be attributed to the much gentler upper beach slope. These results highlighted that the first post-nourishment storm played a key role in the evolution of beach scarps at low-energy and micro-tidal nourished beaches. This study also proposed two methods of determining berm elevation in beach nourishment according to China’s experiences, which would be helpful for other countries’ beach nourishment projects.

Natural formations of rock and coral can support geologically controlled beaches, where the beach dynamics are significantly influenced by these structures. However, little is known about how alongshore variations in geological controls influence beach morphodynamics. Therefore, in this study we focus on the storm response of a beach (Yanchep in south Western Australia) that has strong alongshore variation in the level of geological control because of the heterogeneous calcarenite limestone reef. We used a modified version of XBeach to simulate the beach morphodynamics during a significant winter storm event. We find that the longshore variation in topography of the reef resulted in: (1) strong spatial difference in current distribution, including areas with strong currents jets; and (2) significant alongshore differences in sand flux, with larger fluxes in areas strongly geologically controlled by reefs. In particular, this resulted in enhanced beach erosion at the boundary of the reef where strong currents jet-exited the nearshore.

Coastal areas accommodate a great part of large metropolises as they support a great amount of economic and leisure activities. The attraction of people to coastal zones is contributing to an intense and continuous urbanization of these areas, while the ecosystems are threatened by the increase of natural extreme weather events (e.g. intensity and duration of storms, floods), which interfere with local wave climate and changes in morphological beach characteristics. Protection of coastal zones predisposed to coastline recession, due to the action of high tides, high sediment transport deficit, and high wave energy, may involve various coastal structures to reduce or at least to mitigate coastal erosion problems. Many of the current coastal protections (notably groins, seawalls, and emerged breakwaters) were built with a single purpose, which was to protect at all costs without environmental or economic concerns, especially maintenance costs, or the negative consequences that such structures could cause up to considerable distances along the coast. The current concept of integrated coastal zone management presupposes studies involving other types of concerns and more actors in the decision-making process for the implementation of coastal works. In this context, multifunctional structures emerge and are increasingly frequent, such as the so-called multifunctional artificial reefs (MFARs), with the aim of improving leisure, fishing, diving, and other sporting activities, in addition to coastal protection. MFARs are in fact one of the latest concepts for coastal protection. Behind the search for more efficient and sustainable strategies to deal with coastal retreat, this study focused on a comparison between the performance of two traditional coastal protection solutions (submerged detached breakwater and emerged detached breakwater) and an MFAR on a particular coastal stretch. In order to analyse the hydro- (wave height and wave energy dissipation) and morphodynamics (sediment accumulation and erosion areas, and bed level) of the structures and beach interactions, two numerical models were used: SWAN (Simulation WAves Nearshore) for hydrodynamics and XBeach for hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. In addition, a comparison between SWAN and XBeach hydrodynamic results was also performed. From the simulations conducted by SWAN and XBeach, it can be concluded that amongst all structures, the emerged detached breakwater was the most efficient in reducing significant wave heights at a larger scale due to the fact that it constituted a higher obstacle to the incoming waves, and that, regarding both submerged structures (detached breakwater and the MFAR), the MFAR presented a more substantial shadow zone. Regarding morphodynamics, the obtained results presented favourable tendencies to sediment accretion near the shoreline, as well as at the inward areas for the three structures, especially for the emerged detached breakwater and for the MFAR in both wave directions. However, for the west wave direction, along the shoreline, substantial erosion was observed for both structures with more noticeable values for the emerged detached breakwater. For all the northwest wave direction scenarios, no noticeable erosion areas were visible along the shoreline. Overall, considering the balance of erosion and accretion rates, it can be concluded that for both wave predominance, the submerged detached breakwater and the MFAR presented better solutions regarding morphodynamics. The MFAR storm wave condition performed in XBeach indicated substantial erosion areas located around the structure, which added substantial changes in the bed level.

Terrence Deacon’s (2012) notion developed in his book Incomplete Nature (IN) that living organisms are teleodynamic systems that are self-maintaining, self-correcting and self-reproducing is extended to human social systems. The hypothesis is developed that culture, language, organization, science, economics and technology (CLOSET) can be construed as living organisms that evolve, maintain and reproduce themselves and are self-correcting, and hence are teleodynamic systems. The elements of CLOSET are to a certain degree autonomous, even though they are obligate symbionts dependent on their human hosts for the energy that sustains them.

To relate hydrodynamic forcing and topographic response for a tide-dominated sandy beach, extensive field measurements were carried out in the intertidal zone. Hydrodynamics and beach topography were monitored during a total of 12 weeks at two different study sites: one with a featureless intertidal zone and one with intertidal bars. The results of both study sites indicate that the intertidal beach grows when wave steepness is small, whereas it erodes when wave steepness is large. Spring-neap variations in tidal current direction heavily distort this trend: strong spring tidal currents transport sediment away from the beach, resulting in enhanced erosion. Tide-induced beach volume changes are on the same order of magnitude as wave-induced changes. Besides waves and tides, the effect of variations in the amount of sediment supply is substantial, with enhanced accretion when the sediment supply is large. The effect of variations in sediment supply on the intertidal beach topography is subordinate to the effect of waves and tide, though. From this study, it is concluded that larger waves are primarily erosive, but they can also enhance the natural sediment supply. Furthermore, it is found that tidal currents can be equally important as waves in shaping the beach topography, especially during spring tide on macrotidal beaches.

We argue that a critical difference distinguishing machines from organisms and computers from brains is not complexity in a structural sense, but a difference in dynamical organization that is not well accounted for by current complexity measures. We propose a measure of the complexity of a system that is largely orthogonal to computational, information theoretic, or thermodynamic conceptions of structural complexity. What we call a system’s dynamical depth is a separate dimension of system complexity that measures the degree to which it exhibits discrete levels of nonlinear dynamical organization in which successive levels are distinguished by local entropy reduction and constraint generation. A system with greater dynamical depth than another consists of a greater number of such nested dynamical levels. Thus, a mechanical or linear thermodynamic system has less dynamical depth than an inorganic self-organized system, which has less dynamical depth than a living system. Including an assessment of dynamical depth can provide a more precise and systematic account of the fundamental difference between inorganic systems (low dynamical depth) and living systems (high dynamical depth), irrespective of the number of their parts and the causal relations between them.

Global climate change drives sea level rise and changes to extreme weather events, which can affect morphodynamics of coastal and estuary systems around the world. In this paper, a 2D process-based numerical model is used to investigate the combined effects of future mean sea level and storm climate variabilities on morphological change of an estuary. Morphodynamically complex, meso-tidal Deben Estuary, located in the Suffolk at the east coast of the UK is selected as our case study site. This estuary has experienced very dynamic behaviors in history thus it might be sensitive to the future climate change. A statistical analysis of future storms around this area, derived from a global wave model, has shown a slight increase of storm wave heights and storm occurrences around the estuary in future as a result of global climate variations under medium emission scenario. By using a process-based model and by combining the forecast ‘end-of-century’ mean sea level with statistically derived storm conditions using projected storms over a time slice between 2075−2099, we determined hydrodynamic forcing for future morphodynamic modelling scenarios. It is found that the effect of increased sea level combined with future storms can significantly alter the current prevailing morphodynamic regime of the Deben Estuary thus driving it into a less stable system. It is also found that storm waves can be very significant to morphodynamic evolution of this tide-dominated estuary.

Foredunes are important features within coastal landscapes, yet there are relatively few medium to long-term studies on how they evolve and change over time. This study of Australia’s New South Wales (NSW) foredunes has used 70 years of aerial photographs (or photogrammetry) and recent Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) datasets to assess multi-decadal fluctuations in foredune morphology. It was shown that over the past 70 years NSW foredunes have exhibited considerable spatial variation, ranging from accretion/aggradation to recession. Those sites that accreted predominantly extended seaward as new incipient dunes, gaining a maximum of 235 m3 m−1 in sand volume over the study period (for the entire dune system). These sites were commonly found in the north of the state, within closed sediment compartments, and with strong onshore (and alongshore) wind climates present (increasing the potential for aeolian sand transport). Stable foredunes were those that remained within +/− 50 m3 m−1 of their initial volume and managed to recover from the various storm impacts over the study period. The majority of these sites were found within the central to southern half of the state, behind embayed beaches, and within leaky sediment compartments, or those that have estuarine sinks. Finally, those foredunes in recession have retreated landwards and/or have reduced in height or width, and lost up to 437 m3 m−1 of sand volume over the study period. There was no clear spatial trend for these sites; however, generally they were found in compartments that had unusual orientations, had disruptions in longshore drift/cross shore sand delivery (i.e., rocky reefs), or were being impacted by humans (i.e., the installation of river training walls, sand bypassing systems, or coastal management programs). This study has shown that NSW foredunes have undergone substantial recent changes and, by understanding their past history, will provide better insight into how they can be managed into the future.

Sediment transport is a key element in intertidal beach morphodynamics, but measurements of sediment transport are often unreliable. The aim of this study is to quantify and investigate cross-shore sediment transport and the resulting topographic changes for a tide-dominated, sandy beach. Two fortnight-long field experiments were carried out during which hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics were measured with optical and acoustic sensors, while the beach topography was surveyed with a permanent terrestrial laser scanner. Suspended sediment was generally well-mixed and currents were largest at approximately 1.5 m above the bed, which resulted in a peak in sediment transport at 1/3 of the high tide level. The mean transport direction was onshore during calm conditions (wave height

In process-based numerical models, reducing the amount of input parameters, known as input reduction (IR), is often required to reduce the computational effort of these models and to enable long-term, ensemble predictions. Currently, a comprehensive performance assessment of IR-methods is lacking, which hampers guidance on selecting suitable methods and settings in practice. In this study, we investigated the performance of 10 IR-methods and 36 subvariants for wave climate reduction to model the inter-annual evolution of nearshore bars. The performance of reduced wave climates is evaluated by means of a brute force simulation based on the full climate. Additionally, we tested how the performance is affected by the number of wave conditions, sequencing, and duration of the reduced wave climate. We found that the Sediment Transport Bins method is the most promising method. Furthermore, we found that the resolution in directional space is more important for the performance than the resolution in wave height. The results show that a reduced wave climate with fewer conditions applied on a smaller timescale performs better in terms of morphology than a climate with more conditions applied on a longer timescale. The findings of this study can be applied as initial guidelines for selecting input reduction methods at other locations, in other models, or for other domains.

Coastal foredunes are topographically high features that can reduce vulnerability to storm-related flooding hazards. While the dominant aeolian, hydrodynamic, and ecological processes leading to dune growth and erosion are fairly well-understood, predictive capabilities of spatial variations in dune evolution on management and engineering timescales (days to years) remain relatively poor. In this work, monthly high-resolution terrestrial lidar scans were used to quantify topographic and vegetation changes over a 2.5 year period along a micro-tidal intermediate beach and dune. Three-dimensional topographic changes to the coastal landscape were used to investigate the relative importance of environmental, ecological, and morphological factors in controlling spatial and temporal variability in foredune growth patterns at two 50 m alongshore stretches of coast. Despite being separated by only 700 m in the alongshore, the two sites evolved differently over the study period. The northern dune retreated landward and lost volume, whereas the southern dune prograded and vertically accreted. At the start of and throughout the study, the erosive site had steeper foredune faces with less overall vegetation coverage, and dune growth varied spatially and temporally within the site. Deposition occurred mainly at or behind the vegetated dune crest and primarily during periods with strong, oblique winds (>∼45 ∘ from shore normal). Minimal deposition was observed on the mostly bare-sand dune face, except where patchy vegetation was present. In contrast, the response of the accretive site was more spatially uniform, with growth focused on the heavily vegetated foredune face. The largest differences in dune response between the two sections of dunes occurred during the fall storm season, when each of the systems’ geomorphic and ecological properties modulated dune growth patterns. These findings highlight the complex eco-morphodynamic feedback controlling dune dynamics across a range of spatial scales.

Logan [1] in his book The Extended Mind developed the hypothesis that language, culture, technology and science can be treated as organisms that evolve and reproduce themselves. This idea is extended by making use of the notion of teleodynamics that Deacon [2] introduced and developed in his book Incomplete Nature to explain the nature of life, sentience, mind and a self that acts in its own interest. It is suggested that language, culture, technology and science (LCT&S) like living organisms also act in their own self-interest, are self-correcting and are to a certain degree autonomous even though they are obligate symbionts with their human hosts. Specifically, it will be argued that LCT&S are essentially teleodynamic systems, which Deacon defines as “self-creating, self-maintaining, self-reproducing, individuated systems [2] (p. 325)”.

We review and summarize Terrence Deacon’s book, Incomplete Nature: How Mind Emerged from Matter.

Coastal landscape change represents aggregated sediment transport gradients from spatially and temporally variable marine and aeolian forces. Numerous tools exist that independently simulate subaqueous and subaerial coastal profile change in response to these physical forces on a range of time scales. In this capacity, coastal foredunes have been treated primarily as wind-driven features. However, there are several marine controls on coastal foredune growth, such as sediment supply and moisture effects on aeolian processes. To improve understanding of interactions across the land-sea interface, here the development of the new Windsurf-coupled numerical modeling framework is presented. Windsurf couples standalone subaqueous and subaerial coastal change models to simulate the co-evolution of the coastal zone in response to both marine and aeolian processes. Windsurf is applied to a progradational, dissipative coastal system in Washington, USA, demonstrating the ability of the model framework to simulate sediment exchanges between the nearshore, beach, and dune for a one-year period. Windsurf simulations generally reproduce observed cycles of seasonal beach progradation and retreat, as well as dune growth, with reasonable skill. Exploratory model simulations are used to further explore the implications of environmental forcing variability on annual-scale coastal profile evolution. The findings of this work support the hypothesis that there are both direct and indirect oceanographic and meteorological controls on coastal foredune progradation, with this new modeling tool providing a new means of exploring complex morphodynamic feedback mechanisms.

Channel bars are a major depositional feature in channels, and are considered as an important part of the morphodynamics of an alluvial river. The long-term morphodynamics of bars have been intensively investigated. However, relatively little is known about the response of channel bars to a major river flood, which is considered to be the predominant force in shaping bar morphology. This is especially the case for the monsoon-affected Yangtze River, where fluvial geomorphic work is largely carried out during monsoon floods. In this study, multi-temporal satellite images and river stage data were used to examine the morphodynamics of four large channel bars in the middle Yangtze River in response to a major monsoon flood in 2002. Based on bar surface areas estimated with Landsat images at different river stages, a rating curve was developed for each of the four bars, which was used to estimate bar volume through an integral process. Our study shows that two of the bars tended to be stable, while the other two experienced severe erosion during the flood. The results reveal that the flood caused a total bar surface area decrease of 1,655,100 m2 (or 8.30%), and a total bar volume decline of 5.89 × 106 m3 (or 6.10%) between the river stages of 20.81 m and 25.75 m. The volume decrease is equivalent to a sediment loss of approximately 8.25 × 106 metric tons, based on an average bulk density of 1.4 metric tons per cubic meter. The results imply that channel bars in the middle Yangtze River can also be large sediment sources rather than depositional areas during the flood. The decrease of sediment load in the middle of Yangtze River was found to be responsible for the dramatic morphodynamics of channel bars, which could last for a long period of time, depending on the operation of the Three Gorges Dam, which opened in 2003. Hence, we suggest making management efforts to protect the bars from further erosion.

Grain size on the surface of natural beaches has been observed to vary spatially and temporally with morphology and wave energy. The stratigraphy of the beach at Duck, North Carolina, USA was examined using 36 vibracores (~1–1.5 m long) collected along a cross-shore beach profile. Cores show that beach sediments are finer (~0.3 mm) and more uniform high up on the beach. Lower on the beach, with more swash and wave action, the sand is reworked, segregated by size, and deposited in layers and patches. At the deepest measurement sites in the swash (~−1.4 to −1.6 m NAVD88), which are constantly being reworked by the energetic shore break, there is a thick layer (60–80 cm) of very coarse sediment (~2 mm). Examination of two large trenches showed that continuous layers of coarse and fine sands comprise beach stratigraphy. Thicker coarse layers in the trenches (above mean sea level) are likely owing to storm erosion and storm surge elevating the shore break and swash, which act to sort the sediment. Those layers are buried as water level retreats, accretion occurs and the beach recovers from the storm. Thinner coarse layers likely represent similar processes acting on smaller temporal scales.