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Resume Les lubrifiants et hydratants vaginaux sont des produits de composition analogue utilises selon le cas pour palier une secheresse pathologique ou faciliter les rapports sexuels. Le statut de ce type de produits n’est pas clair pour certaines societes qui confondent cosmetique et dispositif medical. Au regard de la definition reglementaire du cosmetique il apparait que ce type de produit ne peut aucunement etre commercialise sous ce statut.

Concerns about physical appearance and the image projected to others have always existed. Physical difference socially generates stigmatising behaviour, of which women are the first victims. The idea of repairing the body is at the basis of the development of aesthetic care. Socio-aesthetics is a modern speciality, which has developed by linking up with other medical and paramedical disciplines.

Resume Le savon est un produit cosmetique d’usage courant, en cette periode de pandemie, puisque son utilisation fait partie des gestes barrieres. Capable de prevenir une maladie, la COVID-19, il devrait donc etre commercialise sous un statut de medicament. Si l’on considere l’histoire du savon, on se rend compte de la complexite de son statut. Selon les periodes, il a ete considere comme un produit d’hygiene et/ou comme un excipient ou encore comme une substance active, permettant la realisation de medicaments ou de cosmetiques destines a traiter aussi bien la gale que les brulures, de realiser des purges ou de mettre au point des preparations pour adoucir ou blanchir les mains ou pour allonger les cils. L’emploi du terme « savon » etant extremement galvaude, l’etablissement d’une reglementation visant a clarifier cette situation s’imposerait.

Resume En Europe, les « dermocosmetiques » et les produits d’hygiene et de soin de la peau des animaux n’ont pas de statut reglementaire. En effet, le Reglement (CE) No 1223/2009 ne definit que les cosmetiques, produits destines a etre appliques sur les parties superficielles du corps humain.

Resume Les differentes affaires sanitaires qui ont eu lieu en France depuis une quarantaine d’annees ont influence la reglementation des produits cosmetiques. L’influence la plus evidente est celle de « L’affaire du talc Morhange » qui a initie leur reglementation. Par la suite, « L’Affaire du sang contamine », par le biais de la creation de l’Afssaps, a donne aux produits cosmetiques une autorite de tutelle et les fait desormais classer comme des produits de sante. Enfin, plus recemment « L’Affaire Mediator » a entraine, entre autres, une prise de conscience de la notion de conflits d’interet dans le domaine des produits de sante, donc des produits cosmetiques.

Many different chemotherapy drugs including cytotoxics and docetaxel in particular are responsible for side effects involving the nails. To prevent these negative effects, patients are advised to apply nail polish. The aim of this article is to study the photoprotective effect of various products applied in two layers. Sixty-five commercially-available products were tested in vitro. It was found that certain bases can provide non-negligible levels of photoprotection on their own. However, it was noted that nail polishes capable of forming an opaque film were the most interesting, with Sun protection factor (SPF) values of 500 or more, which is a lot higher than the values obtained with sun protection products and similar to levels which can be reached with protection through clothing. It appears that opaque nail polishes applied in two layers are likely to provide excellent protection for nails regarding ultraviolet radiation. If the dark colors are particularly effective towards the ultraviolet radiation, we can also obtain a very good protection with varied colors. The use of one or several UV filters in the formula of the mail polish does not appear to have a particular interest.

Using a topical product is part of the overall strategy for skin cancer prevention. The level of protection attainable when using commercial products is indicated by the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, in use everywhere. This value reflects the level of protection primarily in the UVB range. However, UVA radiation also has deleterious effects on the skin, and it is essential to prevent it, which is why products must offer a wide spectrum of protection. Tests conducted in vivo, before any marketing, are done by applying the studied product at a rate of 2.0 mg cm(-2), while users, in practice, only use 1.0-1.5 mg cm(-2). We now know that this reduction in the amount of applied product greatly affects the SPF. To complete the state of knowledge in this area, we sought to evaluate the effect of a decrease in the amount of applied sunscreen product by studying sunscreen creams and oils on the level of protection attainable in the UVA range. We have shown that the PF-UVA is divided by a factor of 2.2, on average, when the amount of applied product is reduced by half, with differences depending on the product type under consideration (cream or oil) and depending on the SPF of the preparation.

Resume Introduction Dans l’Union europeenne, les produits de protection solaire ont longtemps ete consideres comme des cosmetiques alors que dans d’autres parties du monde, aux Etats-Unis par exemple, il s’agit de medicaments. En France, des antisolaires disposant du statut de dispositif medical sont recemment apparus. Nous avons voulu comparer des dispositifs medicaux antisolaires a des cosmetiques antisolaires. Materiels et methodes Quatre protecteurs solaires ont fait l’objet de tests in vitro afin de determiner leur efficacite dans les domaines UVB et UVA, ainsi que leur photo-stabilite et leur resistance a l’eau. Il s’agissait de deux produits cosmetiques (Depiwhite S Soin photoprotecteur ® SPF 50+ et Urgo cicatrices ® SPF 30) et de deux dispositifs medicaux (DM) de classe I (Actinica lotion ® et Kelo-cote UV ® Gel pour cicatrices). Le principe de la methode in vitro utilisee repose sur la mesure de la transmittance d’un echantillon de produit applique sur une plaque de poly(methacrylate de methyle), a l’aide d’un spectrophotometre a sphere d’integration. Nous avons pu ainsi determiner le SPF de ces differents produits, leur photo-stabilite et leur niveau de resistance a l’eau. Resultats Du point de vue de l’efficacite, trois des quatre produits testes respectent les recommandations concernant les produits solaires en Europe, a savoir un ratio entre la protection dans le domaine UVB et celle dans le domaine UVA inferieur ou egal a 3 et une longueur d’onde critique (λ c ) superieure ou egale a 370 nm. C’est le produit Actinica lotion ® qui est le plus efficace, mais aussi le plus photo-stable, tout au moins dans le domaine UVB, des deux DM testes. Les quatre produits testes s’averent resistants a l’eau. Discussion Des produits presents sur le marche sous des statuts differents, avec des allegations differentes, presentent dans les conditions de notre etude des proprietes filtrantes equivalentes.

There are relatively few authorized ultraviolet filters in Europe and this presents a certain number of problems when we want to formulate a sun protection product which both ensures a high level of protection and respects the recommendations in force in terms of broad-spectrum efficacy, with, in particular, a critical wavelength (λc) greater than or equal to 370 nm. A new ultraviolet filter has just been launched on the market. Known as tris-biphenyl triazine, it is the first filter to be registered on Annexe VI of "Cosmetics Regulation" (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council, which gives a list of the ultraviolet filters allowed in cosmetic products, since the regulation came into force in July 2013. This filter is both very effective (as it enables 2 SPF units and 1 UVA-PF units to be obtained respectively, by percentage of use) and very photostable (since the SPF and UVA-PF do not vary after 2h of irradiation in a solar simulator). Its broad spectrum associated with its qualities in terms of efficacy and photostability make it a choice ingredient for the formulation of sun protection products.

Given that previous studies have highlighted the anti-inflammatory nature, which is influenced by UV radiation, of a certain number of ultraviolet filters currently used in Europe, it seemed interesting to evaluate the persistence of this type of effect. The persistence of the anti-inflammatory effect of fourteen preparations, each containing one of the ultraviolet filters authorized by Regulation (CE) No. 1223/2009, and of 10 commercially-available sun products was studied using the phorbol-myristate-acetate test on mice, up to 6 and a half hours after application. We can observe that a benzophenone, oxybenzone, a PABA derivative, octyldimethylPABA and a derivative of cinnamic acid, OMC as well as 3 commercially-available products, display a very marked anti-inflammatory effect at the end of our experimentation phase. The type of effect observed could encourage users to prolong the time that they are exposed to the sun, due to there being no warning signs, namely sunburn.

Cerium oxide (CeO2) nanopowders were successfully synthesized by a simple microwave-hydrothermal method. The UVB protection of an emulsion containing CeO2 was evaluated in vitro and compared to the one provided by the same emulsion, zinc oxide (ZnO) instead of CeO2. CeO2 offered better protection against UVB radiation. Finally, in vitro cytotoxicity of CeO2 and various ZnO commercial sunscreens was carried out using NCTC2544 cell line. Assessment of cell viability demonstrated that all tested ZnO commercial sunscreens reduce cell viability in a dose- and time-dependent manner whereas CeO2 particles did not produce any effects on NCTC2544 growth at the highest concentration tested (80 µg/ml).

La mode du bronzage est toujours d’actualite. Le lien entre exposition solaire et developpement de cancer cutane est clairement etabli. L’usage d’un produit de protection solaire s’avere donc indispensable. Il convient toutefois de mettre en garde vis-a-vis des produits formules exclusivement avec des filtres mineraux. Sur 17 produits de ce type etudies, le facteur de protection solaire (SPF) determine par methode in vitro s’avere inferieur a celui affiche sur l’emballage. Pour ceux contenant des melanges de filtres organiques et/ou mineraux, le pourcentage de conformite est de 71 %, 77 % lorsque sont uniquement consideres ceux vendus en pharmacie. Une mise en garde toute particuliere doit etre egalement realisee vis-a-vis de produits commercialises sans SPF affiche.

The aim of this study was to synthesize and characterize Ca-doped CeO 2 nanopowder in order to determine in vitro the photoprotection efficiency of the combination – commercial TiO 2 /Ca-doped CeO 2 – incorporated in emulsion. Cerium based particles were synthesized by two methods, co-precipitation and spray pyrolysis, in order to study the effect of the synthesis method on the photoprotection results. While both samples synthesized by co-precipitation and spray pyrolysis methods present the same crystalline structure and the same elementary composition, they differ in granulometry. The photoprotection results showed that the combinations tested are more efficient than the classical combination TiO 2 /ZnO in both UVB and UVA ranges. While the combination TiO 2 /CeO 2 synthesized by co-precipitation allows an increase of the SPF of 27% compared to the classical combination, the combination TiO 2 /CeO 2 synthesized by spray pyrolysis allows an increase of the PF-UVA of 19%.

This paper describes the effect on Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the combination of inorganic and organic filters in sunscreen products as determined by an in vitro method. O/W emulsions containing inorganic filters, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, combined with 18 EU-authorized UV-B organic filters were tested. SPF measurements were carried out using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. This study observed a synergic effect when titanium dioxide was combined with either anisotriazine or octyldimethylPABA. The combination of zinc oxide with 11 UV-B organic filters also exhibited a similar synergy; however, the measured SPF was systematically lower than the protection factor achieved with titanium dioxide.

En Europe, une reglementation tres stricte existe permettant de mettre sur le marche des cosmetiques surs. Pourtant, a lire les publications traitant du potentiel perturbateur endocrinien de certains ingredients cosmetiques, on en viendrait a penser que tout est estrogenique. Les pharmaciens d’officine et les dermatologues, confrontes aux questions des consommateurs, doivent disposer d’informations les plus fiables possibles.

With the aim to know the remanence of two sunscreens, PEG-25 PABA and benzophenone, two cases have been considered: the application of aqueous solution of two filters studied for the application of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions containing the same two filters on the skin of 21 voluntary women. In order to determine the quantity of filter remaining in the stratum corneum after times of application, which vary from 1 to 7 h, a series of six strippings have been carried out. The sunscreen agents were assessed by HPLC. With this study, it has been possible to emphasize the best remanence of benzophenone 4. Moreover, the incorporation of photo-protective agents in a O/W emulsion promotes their penetration, and this is particularly due to benzophenone 4.

It has been clearly demonstrated that ultraviolet radiation is harmful to the skin and can cause helioderma and cancers. There are different methods of combating ultraviolet radiation: sunscreens formulated with filters and/or screens as well as clothing. For this work, the authors studied different fabrics to evaluate what effect the type, color and thickness of an article of clothing might have in terms of providing UVB (UPF) and UVA (UPF-UVA) protection. This study was conducted using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere and allowed the authors to discover that certain fabrics have UPF values which exceed 500, making them vastly superior to sunscreen creams. Synthetic fabrics appear to provide the highest level of sun protection.

The objective of this research is to evaluate the stability of climbazol. Thermodegradation of solutions of climbazol at various temperatures (50, 70 and 90°C) was studied. This degradation appeared to follow first-order kinetics whatever the temperature. The experiments revealed an activation energy Ea of 5.4 kcal mol−1 and a time necessary to obtain a decrease of 10% of the initial concentration, t90%, of 81.9 days for climbazol in aqueous diluted solution at 20°C.

The target of this research was to determine the cytotoxicity of sodium laurylsulfate on single-layer cultures of human fibroblasts, using two colorimetric methods (neutral red and MTT tests) and the evaluation of the pyruvic acid consumption by the cells. For the determination of the cytotoxicity by colorimetric tests, we have determined the absorbance at 540 nm using a spectrophotometer. Pyruvic acid, present in the culture medium, is the mitochondria’s C 3 energetic metabolite. So, a measure of the cell’s consumption of pyruvic acid was developed. The reaction is as follows: Pyruvic acid + NADH → Lactic acid + NAD + and the enzyme employed is the LDH (lactate dehydrogenase). This method can be used to measure cytotoxicity, proliferation, and the cell’s activation. The method is rapid, precise, and lacks any toxic byproduct. The absorbance was measured using a spectrophotometer at 340 nm. The consumption of pyruvic acid follows upon the fibroblast’s growth. Sodium laurylsulfate cytotoxicity test after 24 h shows that the NR colorimetric test and the pyruvic acid consumption are correctly correlated ( r = 0.91, α = 0.05). This dosage can be used to study the barrier properties of the corneocyte layer without destroying the artificial skin.

The authors studied the effects of temperature on the stability of thaumatin in aqueous diluted solutions at 50, 70 and 90°C. The thermodegradation follows first-order kinetics and is pH-dependent. At 20°C and pH 2, the time ( t 90% ) necessary to obtain a decrease of 10% of the initial concentration estimated by extrapolation is 43 days for thaumatin at a concentration of 1.90 × 10 –5 M. Thaumatin is most stable at pH 2.

The authors tried to determine and compare the cytotoxicity of several primary substances used in cosmetic or pharmaceutic industry as antimicrobial agents, on single-layer cultures of human fibroblasts. The cytotoxic effect of Germall 115∗, Kathon CG∗ and Pentonium∗ was pointed out using the colorimetric method with MTT (3-[4-5-dimethyl thiazol 2-yl]-2,5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide). For each one of these substances, we tested different concentrations with variable contact times. These trials allowed us to classify these products by increasing toxicity as follows: Kathon CG∗ and Pentonium∗. In our experimental conditions, Germall 115∗ was not cytotoxic.

Fatty acid analysis was carried out by gas chromatography on six species of marine microalgae used in aquaculture as an evaluation for proposed cosmetic use. Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) represented a large proportion of the total lipids in Tetraselmis suecica , Porphyridium cruentum and Isochrysis galbana , comprising 20.9, 17.1 and 17%, respectively. Arachidonic and linolenic acids were the most abundant PUFA in T. suecica . Skeletonema costatum , Chaetoceros calcitrans , P. cruentum and Nannochloropsis sp. had a high content of eicosapentenoic acid. The amounts of linolenic, octadecatetranoic and docosahexaenoic acids found in I. galbana were notable. The high PUFA content of most of these microalgae make them good potential raw materials for cosmetic upgrading.