Search

Storms and extremely energetic events may significantly impact the form and structure of beaches, and so cause erosive processes and coastal damages. Efficient management actions require an up-to-date and accurate knowledge of beach morphological changes, with the shoreline position being a good indicator of such changes. This work proposes the use of the open-source Shoreline Analysis and Extraction Tool (SAET) software for the definition of satellite-derived shorelines (SDSs) from L8 and Sentinel-2 imagery to reveal the shoreline position changes at the beaches of the Ebro Delta, NE Spain. Spatial-temporal models (STMs) of shoreline changes enable a characterisation of how the beaches responded to the storms of 2020. In conjunction with wave data, STMs enable an analysis of the erosive response to storm events, as well as a monitoring of subsequent beach recovery in the short and medium term (<1 year). Results show how Storm Gloria (January 2020, Hs max = 7.62 m) acted as a disruptive event and shifting point in the shoreline trend. As a response to that storm, major erosive processes occurred along the delta that caused an average shoreline retreat of 47 m. A progressive recovery during the spring and summer was mainly associated with periods of low wave energy. Nevertheless, by the end of the year a complete recovery had been achieved for about half of the coast, while the other half showed an average erosion of more than 10 m when compared to the pre-storm situation. Both the erosive and the recovery processes took place unevenly on different sections of the coast, probably dependent on factors such as the orientation of the beach and the pattern of longitudinal sediment transport along the coast. • Automatic shoreline extraction from Sentinel 2 and Landsat 8 imagery using SAET. • Pre and post-storm characterisation of SDS position in time and space using STMs. • Storm Gloria (January 2020) caused an unprecedented and heterogeneous impact on the Ebro Delta. • Slow recovery occurred in the months following the event conditioned by orientation and wave patterns. • About half of the delta showed a significant shoreline retreat by the end of 2020. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal zones are dynamic environments where sediment transport significantly influences erosion, deposition, and ecosystem stability. Accurate modelling of the complex interactions between hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphological changes in high-energy shoreface areas is crucial for sustainable coastal management. This study aims to assess sediment dynamics and understand the dominant physical drivers of sediment transport in the shoreface by coupling high-resolution numerical modelling with a shoreface sand tracer experiment. Results from the field experiment showed high diffusion and a net onshore and downdrift movement of the tracer in agreement with the observed hydrodynamic data. The numerical modelling strategy, validated with in situ hydrodynamic data and tracer results, demonstrated good performance and highlighted the dominant modes of shoreface sediment transport. While during low energetic wave conditions, the dominant transport mechanism involves the slow-rate bed load sediment movement toward the shore, under moderate energetic wave conditions, longshore wave-induced suspended transport becomes the prevailing mode of transport. The study provides valuable insights to increase the understanding of sediment transport in the shoreface and highlights the importance of coupling numerical modelling with sediment tracer experiments. • Field observations and numerical modelling are used to understand sediment transport in the shoreface • Conceptual sediment dynamic model combines Lagrangian and Eulerian approaches • Energetic wave conditions increase wave-induced currents and sediment transport rates, with waves breaking over the bar crest. • Streaming and wave nonlinearities are the main drivers of sediment transport in the shoreface • Alongshore suspended transport dominates in the surf zone, distributing sediments downdrift [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by dunes can be facilitated by an understanding and description of the physical processes that take place. Field measurements, knowledge of underlying processes and numerical modelling have developed with time, which enabled a more comprehensive description and new predictive techniques. This review concerns dune erosion in the collision regime, and summarises relevant observations, describes underlying processes and explains existing models predicting dune erosion. Observations of dune erosion consist of field observations, laboratory experiments and manipulative field campaigns. The underlying physical processes that contribute to dune erosion are divided into processes that contribute to sediment transport due to hydrodynamic forcing, which occurs in the surf and swash zone, and sediment transport due to avalanching, which occurs in the swash zone, on the dune face and on the dune crest. The existing dune erosion models that are discussed here contain (empirical) equilibrium profile models and process-based models, which can both be a valuable tool for the risk assessment of storm surges. However, model uncertainties still remain, as specific processes are not yet fully understood and described. Examples are the influences of wave obliquity, sediment grain size, and vegetation on the dune face. By improving our knowledge through research and reducing these uncertainties, we can further improve our predictive models. This could eventually lead to more accurate predictions, more complete risk assessments, and sandy coastlines which are more resilient to excessive dune erosion and possible floods. • Reviews dune erosion during storm surges in the collision regime. • Summarises relevant field and laboratory observations • Summarises underlying hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes • Summarises existing dune erosion models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bedforms like ripples are widely distributed in the coastal zone. They influence the bed roughness thus the estimation of bed shear stress and associated sediment transport. An echo sounder was mounted on a bottom-supported tripod intended to measure the erosion and deposition of seabed in the subaqueous Yellow River Delta, China. However, variations in bed elevation are found to be not the net erosion or deposition at the observation site, but the migration of silt ripples which were generated by waves and pushed back and forth or flattened off by the tidal currents. Ripple heights were observed to be within 0.1–0.7 cm and were used for testing the model of Nielsen (1981). The model overestimated the height of silt ripples as it was developed for sands, but the deviation can be well addressed by incorporating a linear modification (R 2 = 0.79). Alternatively, a new model specifically for silt ripple height was regressed from the field data with R 2 up to 0.78. The existence of silt ripples increases the bed shear stress by 4 times due to the additional bed roughness. A "fluffy layer" overlies the consolidated seabed, therefore, net seabed erosion occurs after the "fluffy layer" is resuspended. A representative critical bed shear stress for net seabed erosion in the study area was found to be 0.8 Pa. The echo sounder can be an alternative tool for observing silt ripples in coastal regions like the Yellow River Delta where the water is too turbid for underwater videos. The proposed model infers silt-ripple features from bed grain size and flow condition and provides a quick estimate for bed roughness improving the understanding on sediment transport. • A new model for silt ripple height is proposed based on field observation. • Bed shear stress is better estimated by incorporating bed roughness due to silt ripple. • Critical shear stress for erosion is inferred from field observations. • Echo sounder is used for observing silt ripples in turbid waters. • Ripple height is inferred from field-measured bed elevations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal dunes provide many ecosystem services including protection of infrastructure from wave overtopping and habitat for native species. Foredunes grow at different rates and assume different forms (i.e., short and wide to tall and narrow) depending on a range of factors including pre-existing beach and dune morphology, wind, wave, and water levels, sediment grain size, and vegetation characteristics, yet the relative importance of these factors on foredune growth is understudied. Here, we quantify foredune evolution (2016–2019) and explore the relative influence of a suite of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors for dune growth on three barrier islands in the U.S. North Carolina Outer Banks (Cape Lookout National Seashore). We incorporate observed and hindcast wind, wave, and water level data into the process-based, coupled beach-dune evolution model, Windsurf, to explore the relative contribution of factors likely to influence foredune growth at the annual timescale (2016–2017). Our cross-shore topographic profile observations show varied interannual foredune change rates and characteristics, including horizontal retreat and progradation at the dune toe and vertical erosion and accretion at the dune crest. Model results indicate that, of the factors explored, pre-existing morphology had the greatest influence on the type of foredune growth that occurred (i.e., incipient dune development, widening of the dune, and/or vertical accretion), which dramatically altered the final shape of the dune. Variations in wind and wave climates were associated with the relative contribution of marine- and aeolian-driven bed elevation changes and were particularly influential during storms. In addition, increases in the minimum elevation of vegetation on the dune profile (analogous to the cross-shore distance between the shoreline and established vegetation line, i.e., the vegetation limit, as coined by Duran and Moore, 2013) increased dune crest height and dune volume. Moreover, variations in the minimum vegetation elevation resulted in a larger range of dune crest elevations and dune volumes than differences in the median sand grain size. We suggest that insights into the relative influence of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors to dune growth can assist in the development of practical coastal management strategies. • Pre-existing beach-dune morphology had the largest influence on dune growth type. • Exposure to the dominant wave direction led to increased dune volume. • Higher minimum vegetation elevation and finer sand resulted in taller dunes. • Minimum vegetation elevation influenced dune growth more than sand grain size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Large-scale coastal erosion in the Mekong Delta has been dramatically increasing in severity in recent decades. There are several effective hard engineering solutions that have been implemented in this delta to efficiently prevent coastal erosion and stimulate sedimentation while supporting the local ecosystem conservation. These measures include Pile-Rock Breakwaters (PRBW), Hollow Triangle Breakwaters (HTB) and Semicircular Breakwaters (SBW). However, research on the sediment transport, morphological changes and toe erosion for these offshore breakwaters is very limited and is currently in the initial stages of understanding the specific conditions of sediment characteristics and foundations. The objective of this study was to reproduce the morphological changes and toe erosion of three breakwaters due to wave-structure interactions. This was investigated using 2D physical models with 3000 irregular waves during 8 experimental hours (equal to 15,000*T p). To extract the bed morphological changes and toe erosion both specialized laser measurements (SW50M laser ruler) and analysis of high-speed video recording by images digitalization were applied. The experimental results show that the shape and structural design of offshore breakwaters can have a significant influence on the bed morphology on both the seaside and the leeside. We found that generally the toe of the construction on the seaside was eroded due to the occurrence of reflected waves, and that the flow is narrowed while passing through the construction, increasing the flow velocity and causing toe erosion. Additionally, the accretion of sediment at the leeside of the breakwaters was found to be mainly driven by the transport of sediment through the construction. Comparing the breakwater designs the experimental results showed that the HTB has the maximum accretion rate behind the structure, as well as the fastest accretion rate behind the breakwater. The SBW has high wave energy dissipation efficiency, although the toe erosion rate is faster than the other classes of breakwaters. The PRBW shows the fastest toe erosion rate in front of the structure and causes accretion at the leeside of the construction but at a lower rate than the HTB. The findings from this study will help practical designers to reinforce the foot of construction during real breakwater designing and inform stability calculations. We recommendation is to apply these three classes of breakwaters, especially the HTB and SBW, for stimulating sedimentation for mangrove restoration in the mangrove mud-coast delta. • Morphology and toe erosion of three breakwaters were tested using laboratory physical models. • Pile-rock (PRBW), hollow triangle (HTB), and semi-circular breakwaters (SBW) are compared. • PRBW had the largest front erosion and the slowest accretion rate behind the structure. • HTB demonstrates the fastest accretion rate and the largest sedimentation area behind the breakwater. • SBW had high wave energy dissipation efficiency, but a faster toe erosion rate. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shorelines bordering ebb deltas are often subject to deformation by the approach and attachment of ebb-tidal shoals. Although this is a common behaviour, little attention has been paid to the link between shoal migration and the multi-annual development of the adjacent beach-dune system. This study aims to understand beach-dune systems' behaviour during the approach phase of an ebb-tidal shoal attachment event. Topographic and bathymetric data of the barrier island of Texel (NL) was used to calculate shoreline position, beach and dune volume, dunefoot position, and shoal displacement rates. Two classical beach-dune interaction models were used to understand the observed behaviour: the surfzone-beach-dune model and the sediment budget model. The analysis revealed how a larger bank on the land-facing side of the ebb delta split into two smaller shoals with different morphological behaviours. One of the shoals (S1) moved consistently landwards, recently attaching the shore, whereas the second shoal (S2) is still evolving and presents a milder landward movement than S1. In parallel to the landward movement of S1, the adjacent coastline was subject to erosion, partially counterbalanced by nourishments. However, despite the erosion, dunes are growing in volume, suggesting a net positive transfer of sand from the beach to the dunes. In the surfzone-beach-dune model, regular nourishments positively affect beach state by maintaining sufficient beach size for aeolian sediment transport and reducing shoreline erosion. In the budget model, dune volume growth may occur despite a slightly negative beach budget. Framing Texel in the budget model implies that the beach budget before the start of the approach phase is crucial in defining the behaviour of the dune system during this phase. If the shoal approach significantly reduces the beach budget, the system may cross the budget threshold that dune building is possible. Thus, the dune system may evolve to an erosional state, including dune ridge dissection and blowout development. Hence, nourishments have been essential in keeping the current morphological state during the attachment of the shoal, as they restrict the system from crossing the negative morphological threshold. Thus, without the nourishments, beach erosion driven by the shoal might have led to morphological changes in the dune system that could lead to years of a weakened level of protection until foredune recovery after attachment. • Shoal-induced changes in beach budget influence dune development. • Dune morphology may change depending on the beach state prior to attachment. • Nourishments can retain beach budget at a sufficient level to maintain dune morphology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Erosion rates along Alaska's Beaufort Sea coast, among the highest in the world, are negatively impacting communities, industrial and military infrastructure, and wildlife habitat. Decreasing maximal winter ice extent and increasing summer open water duration and extent in the Beaufort Sea may be making the coast more vulnerable to destructive storm waves than during recent, colder, icier decades. Previous studies of Beaufort Sea coastal change have been limited to subaerial analyses of the shoreline. Here we describe nearshore seafloor change by comparing post-World War II (WWII) (1945-53) bathymetry data to recently acquired (1985–2018) bathymetry data and relate the observed seafloor change to adjacent shoreline change near Utqiagvik, within Stefansson Sound, and immediately west of Barter Island and Kaktovik. Within the Utqiagvik region, seabed erosion was generally highest (>1.0 m of loss) offshore of Point Barrow and along the eastern end of the Tapkaluk Islands, while there were lesser amounts of deposition (<0.5 m of gain) within the protected waters of Elson Lagoon. Sedimentation was generally highest offshore of Point Barrow, in a region of converging currents, and on the landward side of the barrier islands and spits fronting Elson Lagoon, which is likely related to a regional trend of westerly sediment transport and landward migration of the barrier islands. Within Stefansson Sound, perhaps the most notable changes from post-WWII bathymetry data compared to recent data are a switch from mixed, low erosion and deposition in 1997 to low deposition (<0.5 m) in 2018 east of the Boulder Patch, a switch from low erosion in 1997 to neutral depth change in 2018 in the channel between the north and south Boulder Patch areas, and higher deposition from 1997 to 2018 landward of the rapidly retreating barrier islands along the Sound's northern border. At Barter Island, high erosion near north-facing shorelines and high deposition near west-facing shorelines generally matched shoreline changes. One of our goals is to identify possible processes responsible for the depth changes we quantified. Using simple metrics that relate sediment characteristics with modeled waves and non-wave induced currents, we show that sediment resuspension and transport by both wave and non-wave driven currents likely contribute to the overall patterns of change within the ∼13 m isobath along the open coast, and that the influence of wave action affecting sediment transport is expanding seaward. • Patterns of decadal-scale changes in shoreline positions and bathymetry indicate possible linkages within the nearshore. • Depth changes are additionally driven by sediment resuspension and transport by both wave and non-wave driven currents. • Wave action affecting sediment transport expanded seaward and deepened by as much as 15 cm/yr between 1979 and 2019. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal zones are vulnerable to both erosion and flood risk, which can be assessed using coupled hydro-morphodynamic models. However, the use of such models as decision support tools suffers from a high degree of uncertainty, due to both incomplete knowledge and natural variability in the system. In this work, we show for the first time how the multilevel Monte Carlo method (MLMC) can be applied in hydro-morphodynamic coastal ocean modelling, here using the popular model XBeach, to quantify uncertainty by computing statistics of key output variables given uncertain input parameters. MLMC accelerates the Monte Carlo approach through the use of a hierarchy of models with different levels of resolution. Several theoretical and real-world coastal zone case studies are considered here, for which output variables that are key to the assessment of flood and erosion risk, such as wave run-up height and total eroded volume, are estimated. We show that MLMC can significantly reduce computational cost, resulting in speed up factors of 40 or greater compared to a standard Monte Carlo approach, whilst keeping the same level of accuracy. Furthermore, a sophisticated ensemble generating technique is used to estimate the cumulative distribution of output variables from the MLMC output. This allows for the probability of a variable exceeding a certain value to be estimated, such as the probability of a wave run-up height exceeding the height of a seawall. This is a valuable capability that can be used to inform decision-making under uncertainty. • First use of MLMC (multilevel Monte Carlo) with a coupled hydro-morphodynamic model. • Large drop in computational cost for same accuracy using MLMC instead of Monte Carlo. • Determine the distribution of variables of interest in coastal zone cases using MLMC. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Two barrier systems in southeastern Tasmania afford the opportunity to contrast Holocene barrier evolution and explore large-scale coastal morphodynamics under consistent regional-scale boundary conditions on an embayed wave-dominated coastline. New Optically Stimulated Luminescence (OSL) ages for the previously undated seaward ridges of Seven Mile Beach constrain the deposition of the foredune ridges over the past ~1000 years indicating continued shoreline progradation at ~0.4 m/yr. A further 13 OSL ages collected from the foredune ridges of Nine Mile Beach barrier detail the evolution of this barrier system and indicate progradation commenced approximately ~8500 years ago. Following this, a steady rate of shoreline advance at 0.14 m/yr was evident to near present-day with one phase of rapid accretion ~5000 years ago. This occurred as the barrier system extended eastward to span the full embayment width which resulted in the redirection of the estuarine channel and the subsequent erosion of previously deposited ridges due to channel migration likely over several thousand years. The eroded sediment may have contributed to ongoing positive sand budget in the embayment and continued shoreline progradation. Barrier 'recycling' was also suggested as a potential driver of progradation at Seven Mile Beach based on the truncated margin of the landward ridges. However, at both sites, the dynamics of possible sediment exchange between the back-barrier and open shoreline requires further detailed modelling. The relatively small river systems in this region supply minimal sand to the coast at these sites, however, there is some minor alongshore sediment supply along the western margin of these deep embayment's. In light of this, these two barrier systems demonstrate the importance of internal morphodynamic thresholds and cross-shore sediment exchange from the shoreface as key drivers of barrier evolution and large-scale coastal change in embayed coastal settings. • Holocene barrier deposition in Tasmania was driven by onshore sediment transport. • Shoreline advance at Nine Mile Beach averaged 0.14 m/yr from 8500 years to present. • Erosion of inner margin of the barrier may have augmented sediment budget. • Large-scale coastal behaviour is explained by internal morphodynamic thresholds. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]