Assessing shoreface sediment transport at Costinha beach, Aveiro, Portuguese Northwest coast.

Coastal zones are dynamic environments where sediment transport significantly influences erosion, deposition, and ecosystem stability. Accurate modelling of the complex interactions between hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphological changes in high-energy shoreface areas is crucial for sustainable coastal management. This study aims to assess sediment dynamics and understand the dominant physical drivers of sediment transport in the shoreface by coupling high-resolution numerical modelling with a shoreface sand tracer experiment. Results from the field experiment showed high diffusion and a net onshore and downdrift movement of the tracer in agreement with the observed hydrodynamic data. The numerical modelling strategy, validated with in situ hydrodynamic data and tracer results, demonstrated good performance and highlighted the dominant modes of shoreface sediment transport. While during low energetic wave conditions, the dominant transport mechanism involves the slow-rate bed load sediment movement toward the shore, under moderate energetic wave conditions, longshore wave-induced suspended transport becomes the prevailing mode of transport. The study provides valuable insights to increase the understanding of sediment transport in the shoreface and highlights the importance of coupling numerical modelling with sediment tracer experiments. • Field observations and numerical modelling are used to understand sediment transport in the shoreface • Conceptual sediment dynamic model combines Lagrangian and Eulerian approaches • Energetic wave conditions increase wave-induced currents and sediment transport rates, with waves breaking over the bar crest. • Streaming and wave nonlinearities are the main drivers of sediment transport in the shoreface • Alongshore suspended transport dominates in the surf zone, distributing sediments downdrift [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]