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Copyright of Advanced Textile Technology is the property of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University Magazines and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Advanced Textile Technology is the property of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University Magazines and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Journal of Silk is the property of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University Magazines and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

To maintain the stability of the imperial power in the traditional society, the Han Dynasty established an effective civil official system. It showed a new appearance of civil and military co-rule. Based on this social background, the Jinxian crown came into being. It became the symbol of civil officials, and the Jinxian image was born since then. The core of the Jinxian image lies in the word “Jinxian”, which implies that the wearer of this crown should recommend the virtuous. As one of the earliest male crowns of the Han Dynasty, the Jinxian crown could be worn by nobles or minor officials in the early Han Dynasty. Having forming many styles in the development and evolution of later generations, it was an integral part of men’s headdress in traditional Chinese society. The paper aims to study the Jinxian image of civilian officials in the crown image system of the Han nationality, and to demonstrate the origin, shape and use of the Jinxian crown of the Han Dynasty based on the historical materials of the Han Dynasty’s portrait bricks.Through the image data of Han Dynasty’s portrait brick remains, this paper sorted out the changes of Jinxian crowns in different periods. The innovation point is to make up for the lack of physical objects in the early Han Dynasty with the help of image historical materials to ensure the accuracy of the research and to date the origin of the Jinxian crown. As a derivative developed from the official system in the Han Dynasty, the Jinxian crown already formed its basic pattern in the Western Han Dynasty. Originating from the single crown in the Western Han Dynasty, and with the combination of the single crown, Yanti（an ancient turban covering the forehead） and Jieze（a long-eared turban）, the shape and system of Jinxian crowns were established under the influence of the increasingly perfect official system and etiquette thought after the transition and fusion stage of the Western Han Dynasty and Wang Mang period. At the same time, the study summarized the basic structure of the Jinxian crown in the research process, compared the relevant research on the Jinxian crown of the Han Dynasty, and concluded that the basic structure of the Jinxian crown in the Han Dynasty included Yanti, Jieze, the ear, the crown and the crown beam.As a valuable material for studying social life in the Han Dynasty, the unique stone reliefs in the Han Dynasty show the lifestyle of different classes from the social perspective of the Han Dynasty. The study took this as a starting point to explore the practical influence brought by the evolution of the shape and system of male Jinxian crowns in the Han Dynasty from the traditional Chinese value orientation of the Han Dynasty inheriting from the Qin Dynasty. It was mainly reflected in the fact that the social development of the Han Dynasty promoted and strengthened the sociality of headdress, and the basic shape and use of Jinxian crowns changed with the change of regime. From the perspective of the situation in which the Jinxian crown was used in the Han Dynasty society, the study concluded that it had the symbolic meaning of identification, dignity and etiquette and demonstrated the unique shape and symbol representation of the Jinxian crown in the Han Dynasty, which left a deep imprint on the official and civilian classes in the traditional Chinese society.Through the research on the Jinxian crown, the study draw the following conclusions and made corresponding prospects. As the source of the development of the civil officials’ headdress system in the Han Dynasty, the Jinxian crown integrated the ruling thought in the evolution process and became a cultural carrier combining the functions of etiquette, aesthetics and symbolism, and also became a material carrier of the Han Dynasty’s multi-culture, making it a significant motivation to promote the development of the later generations’ headdress system. The shape and system of the Jinxian crown in the Han Dynasty were relatively simple. Still, its origin and evolution reflect the active thoughts of officials and ordinary people in the early Han Dynasty. The social changes brought by its exaggerated symbolism suggest that the Han Dynasty began to turn from prosperity to decline. The evolving trend of the symbol of the Jinxian crown enriched the cultural content of Han costume. It deepened the class barrier of Chinese feudal society. By studying the image of officials in the Han Dynasty, we can find the multi-dimensional performance of the Han men’s headdress in different periods and spaces and supplement the contemporary research system of headdress. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the development of economy and the improvement of information technology, more and more consumers begin to pursue high-quality clothing, seeking to improve their wearing experience and meet the needs of individuality and fashion through customizing their clothes. As a result, personalized customization of clothing has become one of the fashion trends. China Textile Industry Development Plan（2016-2020） proposes to position the development of a mass customization as the key development direction, rely on the e-commerce platform, and use information technology, intelligent design, flexible manufacturing and intelligent logistics and other technologies to achieve the speed and cost of mass production to explore a mass customization production mode featuring small batches and multiple varieties. Additionally, the plan emphasizes the need to accelerate the construction of industrial automation and digitization. However, the application of information technology in traditional clothing production is currently fragmented, with a lack of integration of information technology applications according to the personalized customization mode of clothing.This paper aimed to integrate interdisciplinary research results in order to promote the precise integration of information technology and the personalized clothing customization mode. First, it summarized the research progress of information technology in the clothing industry and expounded on the application of new generation information technology in the clothing industry. Then, it analyzed the current application status of information technology in the field of personalized clothing customization, with focus on the development status of personalized clothing customization and the application of information technology in each link. The research was divided into the modules of user demand acquisition and management, intelligent energy body, personalized clothing design and recommendation, intelligent procurement, and intelligent production. The advantages and disadvantages of information technology in improving production efficiency, reducing costs and meeting user needs were summarized. The first issue identified is the lack of information about consumers’ educational background, working environment and income level in the process of user demand mining. Additionally, there is a lack of data sets for users’ personalized customization needs. In the human body measurement link, the accuracy and personalization of remote body measurement do not meet the fit requirements for clothing customization. The recommendation algorithm used in the clothing recommendation system faces problems such as cold start and data sparsity and fails to adjust to complex and changeable popular trends in a timely manner. Furthermore, due to the lack of accurate acquisition of user needs, the recommendation results are inaccurate. In the intelligent procurement module, the existing supply chain system is still dominated by fixed suppliers, hindering the realization of personalized supply coordination. The intelligent production module lacks research and application of collaborative production for customized products, resulting in the inability to adjust according to changing user needs. Based on these findings, the study comprehensively examined the personalized customization process from a global perspective, emphasizing the importance of collaboration in all aspects. It reveals that while different degrees of digital upgrading have been achieved in each link of clothing personalized customization, overall information sharing and synergy between modules are low. To address these issues, the paper proposes improving the modeling technology of each link of personalized clothing customization using an industry 4.0 architecture. This approach aims to reconstruct the personalized customization process, realize data sharing and optimal control between modules, and enhance productivity, speed, accuracy, flexibility and competitiveness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The rapid development of wearable smart textiles has led to in-depth research on conductive yarns and flexible sensors. The most common conductive yarn on the market is metal-based conductive yarn. Such a yarn and the functional fabrics thereof have excellent electrical conductivity and play an important role in wearable applications. However, various external factors may affect its structure and electrical conductivity in the actual use process. The durability is an important indicator for evaluating such smart textiles.In this paper, to explore the factors affecting the durability of conductive yarns and flexible sensors, five typical metal conductive yarns were selected. Firstly, the effects of washing times, heat setting temperature, and oxidation time on the resistance of conductive yarns were analyzed. The influence of these three factors on the durability of each conductive yarn was expressed by analyzing the change in the resistance of each sample compared with the original resistance at different lengths. Then, considering the difficulty of weaving each yarn and the requirements of fabric performance, 77 dtex silver-plated conductive yarn was selected to weave flexible sensors of different sizes. It was subjected to 30 washing tests, and the active navy blue BF-DB was used for dyeing treatment. By comparing with the original sample, the influence of washing and dyeing on the performance of the sensor was analyzed by the change of equivalent resistance under different horizontal and vertical lines of the flexible sensor.The results show that the three factors have the greatest influence on the electrical conductivity of copper fibers, while the durability is the worst. The copper wire and stainless steel conductive yarn, as a single component of metal filaments, have the smallest resistance change rate and stable electrical conductivity after multiple washing, heat drying under different temperatures and treatment of different oxidation times, indicating that they have good washing resistance, heat resistance and oxidation resistance. The mechanical force of washing will cause damage to the conductive layer on the surface of the metal-coated yarn. When the coating is defective, with the increase in washing times, the resistance of two silver-plated conductive yarns with different densities increases to a certain extent. The thermal shrinkage of nylon-based silver-plated yarns occurs after the heat setting temperature increases. When the yarn is shortened, the contact degree of each particle in the conductive layer increases, so the resistance decreases and the heat resistance is satisfactory. After 20 days of oxidation treatment, the conductivity is significantly weakened, so the oxidation resistance of the silver-plated conductive yarns is poor. The surface morphology of the flexible sensor woven by the 77 dtex silver-plated conductive yarn changes after multiple washing treatments, but its equivalent resistance value decreases due to the reduction of vertical and horizontal dimensions, so its washing resistance is satisfactory. When dyed with reactive dyes, the flexible sensor is in a high-temperature and high-humidity environment. The coil becomes larger after the fiber expands, and the fiber shrinks after cooling to make its size smaller. The equivalent resistance value is reduced to a certain extent, and it can still maintain stable conductivity, indicating that it has excellent dyeing resistance. The experimental results of this paper can provide reference for subsequent research on the factors influencing the durability of conductive materials, and inspiration for the selection of suitable conductive yarns to develop more excellent and stable wearable sensors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

China has entered a new era of economic growth driven by technological progress and advancements. The coordinated development of industrial robots and human employment have become an important component of high-quality industrial development. The application of industrial robots in the textile industry has improved efficiency, flexibility, continuity of production, and transformational upgrades throughout the industry. This has, however, also been accompanied by a decline employment number. From 2007 to 2019, the number of workers employed by industrial enterprises in China’s textile industry decreased from 10.857 5 million to 6.934 9 million. In this context, studying the employment effects of the application of industrial robots in the textile industry, exploring how to create high-quality employment through digital and smart technology transformation, and achieving broad integration of industrial robots in production, interaction, and collaboration with the labor force, are necessary for the modernization of the textile industry as a whole. This paper seeks to provide new ideas and reference for the formulation of relevant labor-intensive industrial policies in the context of industrial robot integration and modernization.Firstly, the industrial robot data of the textile industry from the International Federation of Robotics and the employment data of the textile, garment, and chemical fiber manufacturing industries from China’s Industry Manufacturing Classification System were used to synthesize provincial panel data ranging from 2007 to 2019. Secondly, the fixed effect model was used to empirically analyze the impact and integration mechanisms of industrial robots on the quantity and quality of employment in the textile industry. Finally, a robustness test was conducted by substituting explanatory variables and instrumental variable methods. Heterogeneity testing was also conducted from four dimensions: the opportunity of textile industry transfer and the rate of evolution of the development level, the gender structure of workers, the skill structure of workers, and the stages of application for industrial robots. This study saught to verify the moderating effect of human capital on the impact of industrial robot application where quantity and quality of employment are concerned. Heterogeneity testing based on the spatiotemporal characteristics of the textile industry and the characteristics of workers was also conducted. The results show that the application of industrial robots in the textile industry has a significantly negative impact on employment numbers and promotes the improvement of employment quality. The advancement of human capital weakens the quantity substitution effect and quality improvement effect of industrial robots. There is spatial, gender, skill, and temporal heterogeneity in the impact of industrial robot application on employment. In terms of space, industrial robots have an employment substitution effect in provinces with stable development and improved development of the textile industry in addition to employment creation effects in provinces with reduced development. Industrial robots have a more prominent role in improving the employment quality of the textile industry in provinces with stable development, but have no significant impact on the employment quality in other provinces. In terms of gender, the substitution effect of industrial robots on males is greater than on females. In terms of skills, the application of industrial robots replaces low-skilled workers, while increasing the number of R＆D personnel. In terms of time, the substitution effect of industrial robot integration on the number of employees before 2013 and the improvement effect on the quality of employment after 2013 are more significant.This paper explores the impact, mechanism, and heterogeneity of industrial robot application in the textile industry on the quantity and quality of employment. It expands the theoretical research on the impact of digital and smart technology transformation on employment in labor-intensive industries. It provides important reference value for coordinating the relationships between industrial robots and human beings for the deep integration of artificial intelligence technologies such as industrial robots in textile industry, and promoting high-quality employment and enriching the people in the industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Advanced Textile Technology is the property of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University Magazines and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Nowadays the traditional Chinese costume cultural activities themed around "the Song Dynasty" are flourishing. To meet the diverse needs of consumers clothing brands are drawing inspiration from the Song Dynasty costumes and design innovative costumes with aesthetic elements of the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty costume and artifact culture is an important source of innovative design of contemporary costume and artifact culture. Therefore the study of costume and artifact culture and its aesthetics in the Song Dynasty is of significant importance which provides new ideas and necessary theoretical support for the inheritance and innovation of traditional costumes. From the perspective of artifact culture the paper used the literature research method image research method and comparative research method to induce and infer the cultural connotation and aesthetic value of costumes and artifacts in the Song Dynasty. Three important conclusions were drawn. First the attitude of the Song people towards the culture of furniture porcelain and costume and artifact reflected not only the traditional thought that "great truths are always simple" but also literati spirit and "secularization". Therefore the ceremonial dress in the Song Dynasty followed an orderly tradition with strict hierarchy and orderliness while the casual wear in the Song Dynasty emphasized practicality and suitability for easy wearing combining beauty and practical functions which gave it an aesthetic charm that can be appreciated by both refined and popular tastes. Second the upper class in the Song Dynasty attached great importance to regulations on headwear and clothing and laws and etiquette regulations stipulated the clothing of all social classes in the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty costumes basically followed the principles of elegance simplicity and prioritized "quality" over "ornamentation". However due to the influence of factors such as commodity economy urban prosperity literati spirit and secularization the Song people advocated practical dressing while pursuing elegant demeanor. As a result the overall clothing style remained elegant and simple but the local decorations emphasized exquisite craftsmanship richness and elegance. The soft and tranquil colors combined with harmonious color matching produced a distinctive visual effect and possessed high aesthetic value. Third the economic prosperity in the Song Dynasty stimulated consumption among the populace which in turn drove production. This led to the continuation of traditional costume and artifact culture as well as creative innovations of it in the Song Dynasty resulting in a certain level of sophistication in clothing creation. In the Song Dynasty the basic structure of tie-belt with hidden buckle appeared containing profound creation thoughts which endows it with a modern-oriented characteristic of convenience and practicality. This is an important reason why the Hanfu of the Song Dynasty style can be popularized in contemporary society. The article systematically and thoroughly collects organizes and analyzes furniture porcelain and clothing styles in the Song Dynasty as well as their color decoration. It not only studies from the perspective of the Song Dynasty costume culture but also from the perspective of the Song Dynasty artifact culture examining cultural forms such as modeling technique craft and style. The article searches for clues in ancient books handed-down images and unearthed cultural relics trying to minimize the one-sidedness caused by the limitations of a single artifact perspective. The article studies the cultural connotation and aesthetic value of costumes and artifacts in the Song Dynasty so as to provide certain insights and reference for the design of the Song Dynasty Hanfu as well as new ideas and necessary theoretical support for the inheritance and innovation of traditional costumes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Polyethylene terephthalate PET is commonly used in textiles and apparel automotive interior and other fields due to its excellent properties such as high strength and chemical stability. With the rapid development and expansion of polyester textiles the accumulation of waste polyester textiles is also increasing year by year. However the waste polyester textiles are difficult to be degraded naturally posing a significant environmental threat. Recycling waste PET textiles is therefore crucial. Previous studies have identified two main methods for recycling waste polyester textiles the physical method and the chemical method. The physical method involves regenerating the textiles through simple melting and granulation but this method does not produce recycled products with good quality and stable performance. The chemical method involves using a depolymerising agent to break down waste polyester textiles into small molecules. These molecules are then polymerized to create a recycled polyester product. This process is a crucial method for producing highquality recycled polyester products. Currently chemical methods primarily consist of hydrolysis alcoholysis and enzymatic hydrolysis. Among them the glycol alcoholysis-methanol ester exchange method has gained popularity due to its mild reaction conditions. However it suffers from low product yield and the formation of oligomers during the alcoholysis stage. Additionally the ester exchange stage requires a complex product purification process. Current research is focused on addressing these issues. To address the issues of low product yields and increased oligomers in the glycolysis-methanol ester exchange process this study suggested the use of K2 CO3 / KOH synergistic alcoholysis on discarded polyester textiles. Firstly the inexpensive potassium carbonate was used as the primary catalyst in the alcoholysis stage. KOH was also introduced to co-polymerize the waste polyester textiles. Secondly the response surface method was employed to optimize the process parameters in the alcoholysis stage resulting in the identification of the optimal process parameters. Finally the purification method was optimized in the ester-exchange stage based on the phase transition property of DMT leading to the preparation of highpurity regenerated DMT. This paper introduced the use of KOH in the alcoholysis stage to co-polymerize waste polyester textiles. This reduced the oligomer content in the alcoholysis products and increased the BHET yield. In the ester exchange stage a simple decompression sublimation method was used to purify the regenerated DMT. The purification process was also optimized. The experimental results indicate that the K2 CO3 / KOH synergistic alcoholysis of waste polyester textiles primarily produced BHET. The regenerated BHET yield demonstrated an increasing trend with the addition of KOH peaking at 70. 2% when the KOH addition reached 2%. The process parameters of the alcoholysis stage were optimized by using response surface methodology. The optimal conditions were determined to be a reaction temperature of 210 ℃ a reaction time of 120 minutes K2 CO3 content of 2. 0% and KOH content of 2. 4%. These conditions resulted in a regenerated BHET yield of 73. 1%. The regenerated DMT achieved a purity of over 99% after undergoing purification through decompression sublimation during the ester exchange stage. Efficient purification of the regenerated DMT was achieved. To enhance the reaction efficiency and product yield of waste polyester textiles a cost-effective and viable method is the synergistic depolymerization of waste polyester textiles with K2 CO3 / KOH to prepare regenerated DMT. The research provides valuable reference for the environmentally friendly recycling of waste polyester textiles and lays a foundation for producing high-quality regenerated polyester downstream. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]