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器物文化视阈下宋代服饰审美研究.

Authors :
张 虹
Source :
Journal of Silk. 2024, Vol. 61 Issue 5, p118-125. 8p.
Publication Year :
2024

Abstract

Nowadays the traditional Chinese costume cultural activities themed around "the Song Dynasty" are flourishing. To meet the diverse needs of consumers clothing brands are drawing inspiration from the Song Dynasty costumes and design innovative costumes with aesthetic elements of the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty costume and artifact culture is an important source of innovative design of contemporary costume and artifact culture. Therefore the study of costume and artifact culture and its aesthetics in the Song Dynasty is of significant importance which provides new ideas and necessary theoretical support for the inheritance and innovation of traditional costumes. From the perspective of artifact culture the paper used the literature research method image research method and comparative research method to induce and infer the cultural connotation and aesthetic value of costumes and artifacts in the Song Dynasty. Three important conclusions were drawn. First the attitude of the Song people towards the culture of furniture porcelain and costume and artifact reflected not only the traditional thought that "great truths are always simple" but also literati spirit and "secularization". Therefore the ceremonial dress in the Song Dynasty followed an orderly tradition with strict hierarchy and orderliness while the casual wear in the Song Dynasty emphasized practicality and suitability for easy wearing combining beauty and practical functions which gave it an aesthetic charm that can be appreciated by both refined and popular tastes. Second the upper class in the Song Dynasty attached great importance to regulations on headwear and clothing and laws and etiquette regulations stipulated the clothing of all social classes in the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty costumes basically followed the principles of elegance simplicity and prioritized "quality" over "ornamentation". However due to the influence of factors such as commodity economy urban prosperity literati spirit and secularization the Song people advocated practical dressing while pursuing elegant demeanor. As a result the overall clothing style remained elegant and simple but the local decorations emphasized exquisite craftsmanship richness and elegance. The soft and tranquil colors combined with harmonious color matching produced a distinctive visual effect and possessed high aesthetic value. Third the economic prosperity in the Song Dynasty stimulated consumption among the populace which in turn drove production. This led to the continuation of traditional costume and artifact culture as well as creative innovations of it in the Song Dynasty resulting in a certain level of sophistication in clothing creation. In the Song Dynasty the basic structure of tie-belt with hidden buckle appeared containing profound creation thoughts which endows it with a modern-oriented characteristic of convenience and practicality. This is an important reason why the Hanfu of the Song Dynasty style can be popularized in contemporary society. The article systematically and thoroughly collects organizes and analyzes furniture porcelain and clothing styles in the Song Dynasty as well as their color decoration. It not only studies from the perspective of the Song Dynasty costume culture but also from the perspective of the Song Dynasty artifact culture examining cultural forms such as modeling technique craft and style. The article searches for clues in ancient books handed-down images and unearthed cultural relics trying to minimize the one-sidedness caused by the limitations of a single artifact perspective. The article studies the cultural connotation and aesthetic value of costumes and artifacts in the Song Dynasty so as to provide certain insights and reference for the design of the Song Dynasty Hanfu as well as new ideas and necessary theoretical support for the inheritance and innovation of traditional costumes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Details

Language :
Chinese
ISSN :
10017003
Volume :
61
Issue :
5
Database :
Academic Search Index
Journal :
Journal of Silk
Publication Type :
Academic Journal
Accession number :
177094378
Full Text :
https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2024.05.015