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The Badayun pattern composed of circular square and other symmetrical geometric figures originated the ancient concept of "round sky and square earth". The structure of "rice (米 )" in this pattern represents geographical orientation and the pattern contains the "nine palaces and eight diagrams" in traditional Chinese philosophy and culture and it is further developed under the influence of Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty. As a model of the geometric patterns of Song brocade the Badayun pattern is deeply loved by the court and nobles because of its colorful pattern images rigorous and clear composition form complex but not chaotic color style and auspicious and healthy meaning and is widely used in painting and calligraphy mounting and brocade dress pattern design. Based on ancient fabric images and ancient literature records this paper sorted out and summarized the changing rules of the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern analyzed the historical causes of the changes explored its deeper cultural implications and drew the three major conclusions. First from the Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty the evolution law of the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern was mainly reflected in the skeletal framework from being simple to being complex the color conbination from being simple to being gorgeous and the decorative pattern from being single to being multiple. Second from the Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty the changes in the artistic characteristics of the Song brocade Badayun pattern were mainly influenced by a variety of factors such as the awareness of political rights the growth of economic development the development of cultural exchanges and the improvement of brocade skills. The consciousness of political power provided the necessary prerequisite for the spread of patterns the economic development provided the objective conditions for the spread of patterns the cultural exchange phenomenon provided the inspiration for the evolution of patterns and the improvement of brocade skills provided technical support for the performance of patterns. Third from the Song Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty the Song brocade Badayun pattern also expressed the ancient people's recognition of rational aesthetic order their desire for the auspiciousness and health and their pursuit of moral cultivation in both explicit and implicit ways. This paper systematically and deeply collects collates and analyzes the evolution law of the Song brocade Badayun pattern analyzes the cause of its evolution and cultural implication which is helpful to the inheritance and development of Song brocade patterns and provides reference for the innovative design of the Badayun pattern. With the change of dynasties and the development of the times the Badayun pattern no longer has the function of highlighting the user's status and conveying the value of honor but its meaning of auspiciousness and beauty and the significance of highlighting moral cultivation continue to this day and it has been loved by people and widely used in modern textile pattern design. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The human body dissipates heat rapidly at low temperatures and it faces the risk of freezing frostbite and even death if it fails to maintain the physiological thermal balance. It is an efficient way of promoting the thermal insulation of the garment to achieve the thermal balance of the human body by changing its opening design. Although many studies have been conducted on the impact of clothing including the style and pattern or the external temperature on heat transfer of clothing most of them focus on one single factor with the combined factors being rarely discussed in depth. This paper discussed the impact of different arrangements and combinations of three main opening designs of clothing including the front flap the cuff and the collar on thermal insulation performance of cold-proof through thermal manikin at various temperatures. The findings of this study are expected to provide significant instructions for consumers and quantitative reference for the opening design of cold-proof clothing. In the experiment the study selected a one-piece suit as the original garment to carry out different opening designs and obtained three types of single-opening clothing namely 2# clothing with a widened and thickened front fly 2 cm wider and 0. 4 cm thicker 3# clothing with tightened cuffs with a binding size of 16 cm and 4# clothing with a tightened collar with a binding size of 30 cm . Such designs are the three main opening designs of cold-proof clothing. The three single-opening designs of 2# - 4# were arranged and combined in order to accurately quantify the influence of each opening and combination design on the overall and local thermal resistance of clothing. Four kinds of multi-opening optimization designs were obtained 5# front fly widening and thickening + cuff tightening 6# front fly widening and thickening + collar tightening 7# cuff tightening + collar tightening and 8# front fly widening and thickening + cuff tightening + collar tightening. The study used a Newton thermal manikin to measure the thermal insulation of 34 separate segments including the total thermal insulation and the local thermal insulation of hand upper arm forearm upper chest lower chest abdomen shoulder upper back mid back and hip. On this basis in order to explore the influence of the temperature on the thermal performance of clothing from the perspective of thermal insulation mechanism four levels of temperatures were selected including 5 ℃ 0 ℃ - 5 ℃ and - 10 ℃. At the same time the software SPSS was used to statistically compare the total thermal resistance of 1# - 4# clothing and 5# - 8# clothing at 5 ℃. The local thermal resistance changes of single-opening and multi-opening garments were shown in bar graphs. Finally the change rates of the overall and local thermal resistance values of at different temperatures were analyzed. The results showed that both the opening design and the temperature have an impact on clothing insulation performance and the former serves as the most important factor followed by the second. Compared with single-opening design the multi-opening design of clothing plays a more important role in promoting the thermal insulation performance of clothing. The thermal resistance increase rate of 8# clothing can reach 7. 20% but the effect of opening design on the thermal insulation performance of clothing is weakened at lower temperatures. In contrast the 8# multi-opening design has a more obvious promoting effect on the improvement of clothing due to the formation of an enclosed environment at 5 ℃. The findings in this paper can provide objective data for the opening design of cold-proof clothing. In order to achieve the thermal function of winter clothing it is necessary to consider factors such as materials and the environment. At the same time the research results can also provide ideas for further analysis of the opening tightening quantity of cold-proof clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Garment fit evaluation is one of the main bottlenecks in current fashion design and manufacturing. In the process of remote customization and online shopping the size of the clothes that does not fit has become the primary reason for users to return or exchange them which has seriously affected the intelligent upgrade of the clothing industry. Therefore how to judge the fit degree of a garment without actually trying it on is one of the main problems that needs to be solved urgently in the clothing industry. In previous studies garment fit was usually evaluated by some characteristic indexes such as ease allowance clothing wrinkle the spatial relationship between clothing and the human body and clothing pressure. However most of them have some problems such as the need to try on clothes and the complicated evaluation process which are not suitable for remote customization of clothing and online shopping. With the development of computer vision and machine learning technology a small number of scholars use 2D images to judge garment fit based on clothing wrinkle but only for specific garments and the generalization ability is weak. To solve the problem that garment fit cannot be discriminated in advance in the process of remote customization and online shopping this study took women' s suits as an example and put forward a method to discriminate the fitness of women's suits based on 2D human images. Firstly 2D images and 3D human body size of 462 young women aged 18 - 25 in northeast China were collected and a human body data set was established. Twenty-two samples were selected from this data set and virtual models were established for virtual try-on by using CLO3D software. According to the national clothing size standard of China 10 virtual women's suits with the same style and different sizes were made to establish the garment data set. Based on the principle of Kansei engineering the fitting evaluation labels of women' s suits namely tight fit and loose types were given by expert evaluation method combined with virtual fitting. Then a method to discriminate the fit of women' s suits by using garment features and 2D human image features was proposed. As for the garment features GFs the bust girth and length characteristics of women's suits the features of 2D human body image including the key point distance features DFs and overall features OFs were extracted. The specific extraction method is as follows. Firstly the 2D human body image was preprocessed and normalized and the human body contour was extracted by Canny edge detector and the five DFs in the 2D human body image were obtained namely the distance of chest thickness key points distance waist thickness key points distance hip thickness key points distance waist width key points distance and hip breadth key points distance. Then three OFs of the 2D human body image were extracted namely the body height pixel value feature H the feature of the projected unit area ρ and the feature of the projected area ratio of the front and side of the human body C. Finally the Bayesian classifier was used to establish the garment fit prediction model and the Fisher linear discriminant function was used to establish the women' s suit fit discriminant equation. In this paper computer vision technology was used to extract the feature indexes of garment fit evaluation and a machine learning algorithm was combined to realize the women's suit fit discrimination based on 2D human body images. Experimental results indicate that the garment features proposed in this paper and the 2D human body image features based on computer vision technology can be used to predict the fit of women' s suits and the discriminant model of women' s suits based on the Bayesian algorithm has achieved good discriminant accuracy and the cross-validation discriminant accuracy rate can reach 84. 8% so the model is valid. The women' s suit fit discrimination model based on 2D human image feature learning provides an effective and feasible method for garment fit in fashion design production manufacturing and online shopping. This method provides a theoretical basis for the quantitative evaluation of garment fit and is beneficial to the recommendation of clothing size and the improvement of patterns in clothing customization enterprises and online shopping. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Traditional Chinese clothing patterns are an important part of excellent cultural heritage of China with unique visual effects and artistic charm providing abundant materials for modern design. They are widely used in the field of modern design and decoration and are an important symbol of the nationalization of Chinese design. Over the past 20 years scholars have conducted increasing research on traditional clothing patterns and explored the integration of traditional clothing patterns with modern design languages from different perspectives and different disciplinary backgrounds as well as the digital simulation and reconstruction of traditional clothing patterns. At present there is a lack of comprehensive quantitative analysis to objectively evaluate relevant research literature on traditional clothing pattern design transformation and there is an urgent need to grasp the theoretical trends in this field as a whole. This paper selected 425 journal articles on traditional clothing pattern design transformation research from CNKI in the past 20 years. Based on the CiteSpace software and content analysis method the research laws of traditional clothing pattern design transformation in China were sorted and analyzed from the dimensions of knowledge production context knowledge production subject knowledge foundation keyword co-occurrence and timeline. This paper adopted a dual perspective of bibliometrics and content analysis to clarify the research laws of traditional clothing pattern design transformation from the dimensions of time and space in order to provide reference for theoretical deepening application exploration and sustainable development in this field. Three major conclusions were drawn. First from the basic characteristics of the literature the number of publications on traditional clothing pattern design transformation has increased rapidly since 2001. Scholars have paid increasing attention to related research in the field of traditional clothing pattern design transformation. More scholars and research institutions have explored the traditional clothing pattern design transformation to varying degrees from different disciplinary backgrounds and accumulated a certain number of research results. However most of the scholars conduct independent research indicating a lack of collaborative research on the traditional clothing pattern design transformation. Therefore it is necessary to form more academic research teams and core research scholar groups. Second from the perspective of hot research topics the research on traditional clothing pattern design transformation has formed three research hotspots materialized expression of auspicious culture in traditional clothing pattern design transformation innovation of methods for extracting traditional clothing patterns and interdisciplinary integration driving the innovative development of traditional clothing pattern design transformation. Third from the perspective of research evolution the evolution of traditional clothing pattern design transformation can be roughly divided into three stages 2001 - 2008 2009 - 2016 and 2017 - 2022. The integration of multiple disciplines drives the continuous innovation of modern design and forms new development trends. For example the interactive design of traditional clothing patterns provides users with a better user experience traditional clothing pattern service design based on user emotional experience has become an emerging research direction the extraction and innovation of "Chinese elements" in traditional clothing patterns reflect cultural confidence in design transformation the traditional clothing pattern design transformation has gone through a change from commonality to individual psychological needs with design shifting from practicality to spirituality. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

“Overshoes” are a functional style of traditional Chinese shoes that combine utility and aesthetics. They are designed to protect fabric shoes from dirt and to prevent people from slipping when walking. They coexist with human production and life. From a material point of view, traditional overshoes are directly consumable items of folklore. From the intangible point of view, they are cultural folklore that combines human wisdom and craftsmanship. Therefore, the folk culture of traditional overshoes has irreplaceable characteristics and demonstrates the Chinese cultural trait of “pluralistic integration”. This paper takes the representative specimens of “overshoes” provided by the collector Mr. Zhong Mantian as the main research model. At the same time, the study combines historical records. In particular, it focuses on the form and function of traditional Chinese overshoes. On this basis, the article explores the concept of the creation of traditional overshoes. It emphasizes the combination of specimens and documents. Moreover, it systematically collects primary research data on physical specimens. Through the comparative study of documentary evidence and the structure of physical specimens, five conclusions are drawn. First, the degree of focus on functionality of traditional Chinese overshoes is much greater than the decorative attributes, and their shapes are extremely closely related to the materials from which they are made, presenting a diversified and personalized situation. Second, the basic guiding principle in the design of traditional overshoes is to serve the productive life of people. The basic need is for people to feel comfort and convenience on their feet when they wear shoes. Third, when people choose the materials for traditional overshoes and design their shapes, the goals are to respect nature and make the best use of them. At the same time, these designs should be able to adapt to changes in the natural environment, ceremonial rules and ethnic integration, showing strong adaptability and inclusiveness. Fourth, influenced by the living conditions in a particular historical period, when people think about designing the functional performance of traditional overshoes, their design guideline is to prolong the life of the shoes. People would use all kinds of craftsmanship to transform and innovate the overshoes, so that the concept of “saving things and using them sparingly” would be consistent with their actions. Fifth, the shape of traditional overshoes contains the moral culture of Chinese shoes. The unique meanings of “the bridge of the nose on the shoes” and “ribbon embedded in the shoes” have spiritually educated people’s code of conduct and ethics. Meanwhile, they also convey a positive outlook on life and values. The research method of using physical specimens as the basic data in this paper provides high supplementary value for the study of traditional Chinese overshoes. As an actual material, “overshoes” carry and continue the mainstream cultural values of traditional Chinese culture. They also vividly illustrate the nature of Chinese costumes, namely “pluralistic integration”. Nowadays, people are faithfully inheriting and carrying forward the excellent traditional Chinese culture, trying to enhance the national cultural soft power and Chinese cultural influence. In this context, the study of traditional overshoes is of high value and heritage significance. It also provides important reference and guidance for the development of related design products at present. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Underarm opening sleeves and pendent sleeves have a common wearing characteristic, namely both of them hang behind the shoulders, but they have differences in terms of shape and structure. Underarm opening sleeves and pendent sleeves, with strong identification and vitality, prevailed and were widely transmitted across ancient Eurasia. They have attracted close attention from scholars and can both be traced back to Kandys of ancient Persia, a kind of cloak with two pendent sleeves. This paper aims to explore the transmission paths and features of underarm opening sleeves and pendent sleeves in ancient Eurasia, costume culture of clothes with underarm opening sleeves and pendent sleeves during the process of transmission, and the formation cause of the shape of underarm opening sleeves. From the holistic view this paper summarized the past findings and sorted out the historical photographs, literature, and heritages to explore the evolution of Kandys and clothes with underarm opening sleeves. The research shows that in ancient Persia, Kandys had important functions of religion, politics and culture. On one hand, it was used as ritual clothing for sacrifice; on the other hand, it was used as honor clothing to indicate the noble status and identity. As an important cultural sign, the pendent sleeves of Kandys which appeared on the figures of empire king, priest and Anahita and were used to be the saint clothing in the scenery of divine right of kings, were inherited and developed in the Persian Empire system. With the population migration and trade activities in ancient time, as a signal, the clothes with two pendent sleeves were transmitted to East along the Silk Road and ritual and honor were still the dominating factors of costume culture to be transmitted during the process. Sogdians and nomadic people were the prime transmission medias. In the process, the cultural characteristics of pendent sleeves were gradually endowed with multiple characteristics of nationality, Xianbeilization and Nomadizing. Clothes with pendent sleeves were practical for nomadic people, and were further transmitted by them. Clothes with underarm opening sleeves appearing around the 7th century A.D. resulted from the colliding and merging of two mainstream culture Byzantine costume culture and Sassanid Persia costume culture at that context along with the rise of Islamic civilization. The underarm opening sleeves with the joint image features of Byzantine costumes and Persia costumes became the Byzantine military uniform style and were very popular across Eurasia. In the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), the clothes with underarm opening sleeves called “Hai Qing Yi” were worn by Mongolian. The popular style of clothes with underarm opening sleeves was mainly transmitted through the two medias of European Crusaders and nomadic people, who jointly promoted bidirectionally dynamic transmission between East and West. During the long process, underarm opening sleeves were gradually endowed with decorative characteristics. The long-term evolution process fully manifests the blinding of Eastern and Western costume culture and multicultural characteristics of clothing shape. The continuous evolution of pendent sleeves and underarm opening sleeves consists of a series of “conjunctures” and “events” resulting from cross-era and cross-regional collision and exchange of civilization and culture. Meanwhile, the long term, conjunctures and events jointly promoted the evolution of clothing shape and exchange and transmission of costume culture between East and West. The paper systematically collected, combed and analyzed the evolution process of the shape of pendent sleeves and underarm opening sleeves, expanded the time and region and explored the transmission paths and features from the perspectives of trade activities along the Silk Road and migration of nomadic people, thereby enabling the process of development and change of clothing shape and blending phenomenon of Eastern and Western costume culture to be more clear. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Among the cultural relics unearthed in the Dunhuang Sutra Cave, there are a large number of paintings from the 7th to the 10th century, which are generally referred to as “Dunhuang paintings”. At the beginning of the 20th century, after the Dunhuang paintings were discovered, foreign explorers represented by Marc Aurel Stein and Paul Pelliot went to the Mogao Grottoes to steal them. At present, the lost Dunhuang paintings are mainly collected in Britain, India, France and Russia. Among the current public image materials, some of the collections of Britain and France have been sorted out for many times, and the series of atlas of The Art of Central Asia published by Kodansha is the most systematic and comprehensive. Among them are a collection of exquisite paintings of the Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva, painted from the middle and late Tang Dynasty to the Song Dynasty. These Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattvas are mostly classic works in Dunhuang paintings, and their kasaya patterns are abundant and colorful, which is of great research value. In this paper, by taking the Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva, who wore the kasaya pattern, as the research object, the inner and outer kasaya patterns were sorted out and divided into two categories: the common patterns used in kasaya, such as gold diamond pattern, concentric circles linked-pearl pattern and roundel pattern; specific patterns of kasaya, such as cloud and water patterns and thread patterns. In the remaining Dunhuang paintings of the Tang and Song Dynasties collected by Britain and France, the kasaya patterns of Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva are distributed in each stripe area of the kasaya, and have the characteristics of symmetry and regularity, playing an auxiliary role in constructing the stability and solemn sense of the Dunhuang paintings. The common patterns used in kasaya developed early, and were all used in the costumes of figures and the border ornaments of grottoes, reflecting the unity of Dunhuang buddhist art in decorative style. The exclusive pattern of kasaya is used exclusively on the dress of the Samana figure, which is a unique symbol of buddhist identity. During the Song Dynasty, with the prosperity of the belief in Ksitigarbha, Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva often ranked as the main figure in the image of Ten Kings, and related kasaya pattern was more precise and more characteristic in the Dunhuang paintings. At the same time, the pattern content and decorative expression techniques of kasaya also reflect the close connection with the textile technology at that time to a certain extent, and enrich the textile historical materials. Therefore, the kasaya patterns of Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva in Dunhuang paintings of the Tang and Song Dynasties are not only exquisite and highly decorative, but also a three-dimensional presentation of his image identity, belief boom and Tang textile technology. Mainly based on the images of Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva in the Dunhuang paintings of the Tang and Song Dynasties recorded in The Art of Central Asia, this paper combed the kasaya patterns worn by the Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva. At the same time, it traced back the physical kasaya and the textile process of the Tang and Song Dynasties, and verified the kasaya patterns of Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva to further understand people’s interpretation of the identity and function of Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva at that time, so as to explore the influence of the centralization of Ksitigarbha belief on related image patterns in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and to provide theoretical reference for the age judgment and style study of Ksitigarbharaja bodhisattva’s kasaya patterns in Dunhuang. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the continuous advancement of textile and garment production processes, traditional fabric handling methods heavily reliant on manual labor are gradually insufficient for the demands of intelligent development. In addressing the issue of fabric handling, industrial robots currently employ various methods such as mechanical grasping, needle puncture, vacuum suction, and electrostatic adsorption. In comparison to traditional methods like mechanical arm gripping, needle puncture, or vacuum cup suction, electrostatic adsorption stands out as an ideal approach due to its stable adhesion force and high-precision gripping. Therefore, this paper opts for electrostatic adsorption technology to address the challenge of fabric handling in garment production. In the realm of electrostatic adsorption technology research, prior studies have predominantly focused on areas such as climbing robots and mechanical arms, with relatively limited systematic analysis in the field of fabric handling for garments. Building upon electrostatic adsorption technology, this paper delves into the transfer of garment fabrics, aiming to gain a profound understanding of the electrostatic adsorption force model. Through a systematic exploration of the impact patterns of fabric and electrostatic plate parameters on electrostatic adsorption force, the paper aims to provide a scientific foundation for the design and optimization of electrostatic plates. To enhance the adhesion performance of electrostatic plates during the transfer of garment fabrics, this paper focused on warp-knitted fabrics, establishing a three-dimensional electrostatic adsorption model and a five-layer two-dimensional electrostatic adsorption model to provide scientific basis for the design and optimization of electrostatic plates. Firstly, the paper established a structural model for warp-knitted fabrics and a theoretical model for electrostatic adsorption force, ensuring the effectiveness of the research through theoretical analysis and simulation verification. Secondly, employing the Maxwell tensor method, the paper derived a five-layer two-dimensional theoretical model for electrostatic adsorption force, thoroughly investigating the impact patterns of internal structural parameters on adhesion force. Finally, through the optimization of structural parameters in the design of electrostatic adsorption plates, the paper aimed to enhance the adhesion performance of these plates, so as to provide theoretical support for the intelligent handling of garment fabrics. By introducing a five-layer two-dimensional electrostatic adsorption force model and employing the Maxwell stress tensor method for analysis, this paper extensively explored the impact of internal structural parameters on electrostatic adsorption force, offering a theoretical basis for more accurate predictions of electrostatic adsorption force. Simultaneously, the paper suggested the existence of optimal solutions for plate width and the distance between electrostatic plates, proposing adjustments to these parameters to enhance the overall adhesion performance of electrostatic plates. Research findings indicate that by establishing a theoretical and simulation-based electrostatic adsorption model, the effect of electrostatic adsorption force on the warp-knitted fabric structure in an electric field is verified. The effectiveness and feasibility of the simulation method are confirmed. The magnitude of electrostatic adsorption force generated by the electrostatic plate is jointly influenced by plate voltage and plate structural parameters. Adjusting plate voltage and structural parameters enhances plate adhesion performance. Notably, in designing the electrostatic plate structure, an optimal proportion exists between plate width and the distance between electrostatic plates. Optimization suggests maintaining a ratio of around 0.78 between plate distance and electrode width to maximize overall electrostatic plate adhesion performance. Electrostatic adsorption technology injects new vitality into the textile and garment production industry, improving production efficiency by automating fabric handling and transfer processes. The introduction of this technology not only innovates the mode of production, but promotes the textile and garment industry to move towards a smarter and more efficient direction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cellulose is the most abundant naturally occurring macromolecule on earth, and cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) are obtained by removing the amorphous regions in cellulose to retain the crystalline regions. The high aspect ratio and high specific surface area of CNCs give them excellent mechanical properties. Meanwhile, as a typical bio-derived nanorod with chirality, they exhibit strong birefringence phenomenon and produce colorful and unique structural colors, so they are commonly used in anti-counterfeiting responsive sensors and so on. Chitosan (CS) is the only alkaline cationic macromolecule containing free amino groups in nature. Chitosan fibers are commonly used in the medical field because of their unique properties such as good biocompatibility, degradability, and rapid hemostasis. However, due to the high surface charge density and high dispersion of CNCs, fibers are difficult to form by wet spinning, and the generally low strength of CS fibers limits their practical application in life. Therefore, the two can be synergized to promote the spinning and forming of CNCs in CS as an effective way to prepare functional fibers. Currently, some researchers have also used CNCs as reinforcement base to compound with bio-based functional materials in order to expand the application areas of CNCs, but little research has been done on the characteristics of CNC assembly in composite fibers that would result in structural coloration. On this basis, this paper innovatively prepares chitosan/cellulose nanocrystalline(CS/CNC) composite fibers by wet spinning method, and compares the mechanical properties and unique optical characteristics of the CS/CNC blended fibers and CS/CNC sheath-core composite fibers prepared by different blending and coaxial spinning methods. In this paper, the effects of different concentrations and temperatures on the tensile rheological properties of CS solutions were firstly investigated, and it was found that 2.5% CS solution was suitable for spinning at 60 ℃. Secondly, different concentrations of sisal CNCs were used to prepare CS/CNC sheath-core composite fibers to analyze the effect of CNCs concentration on the mechanical properties of the fibers, and the results showed that the mechanical properties of the fibers prepared with 2.0% concentration of CNCs were the most suitable. Therefore, 2.5% CS solution with 2.0% concentration of CNCs was selected for the preparation of subsequent wet spinning. To compare the structure and properties of composite fibers prepared by different spinning methods, the structure of CS/CNC composite fibers was analyzed by infrared spectroscopy. The comparison results showed that the FT-IR spectra of CS/CNC composite fibers were similar to those of CS fibers, with the main peak changes occurring in the characteristic absorption peaks between 3 650-3 200 cm-1. Due to the formation of new hydrogen and ionic bonds between CNC and CS, it is easy to form a network structure. Scanning electron microscopy was used to characterize the morphological structure of the fibers. The results showed that the cross-sectional CNCs of the CS/CNC blended fibers were assembled chaotically and twisted, whereas the diagonal cross-section of the CS/CNC sheath-core composite fibers had a distinct skin-core structure and the CNCs were assembled in the core layer into a lamellar structure. To further investigate the lamellar structure of the core layer assembled with CNCs, polarized light microscopy and circular dichroism spectroscopy tests were performed, and the CS/CNC sheath-core composite fibers showed two distinct positive peaks at 388 nm and 608 nm. It confirms that the core layer of CS/CNC sheath-core composite fibers has a left-handed helical nematic phase structure with uniform and orderly arrangement, and the fiber as a whole shows bright and orderly iridescent colors. The tensile mechanical properties of the fibers were tested, and the results showed that the mechanical properties of the CS/CNC sheath-core composite fibers were superior to those of the CS/CNC blended fibers, with an initial modulus of 489.40 cN/dtex, an elongation at break of 9.65%, and a breaking strength of 0.647 cN/dtex. The analysis by heat loss analysis and swelling property test showed that the thermal stability of CS/CNC composite fibers was more similar to that of CS fibers, and the network structure formed in the composite fibers could effectively impede the penetration of water molecules and improve the water resistance of CS/CNC composite fibers. The above results indicate that the CS/CNC sheath-core composite fibers prepared by the coaxial spinning method not only improve the mechanical properties of the fibers, but also have the unique optical characteristics, showing bright and orderly iridescent colors under polarized light. They are expected to be used for anti-counterfeiting clothing fabrics so as to further expand the application scope of CNC. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hunan embroidery, as one of the four famous embroideries in China, is an embroidery technique with unique characteristics of Hunan and Hubei regions. However, with the technological upgrading brought about by the industrial revolution, mass production has become the mainstream manufacturing method of textiles, and traditional Hunan embroidery products have gradually declined in the mass consumption scene due to multiple factors such as complicated process, long construction period and high cost. Therefore, it is particularly important to inherit, innovate and spread culture of Hunan embroidery art products. In recent years, many scholars have carried out a series of studies on Hunan embroidery, mostly focusing on design element exploration, digital protection platform and other design practices, with a lack of attention to important production factors such as consumer demand and market development of Hunan embroidery products. Under the policy-oriented background of “cultural self-confidence” and “cultural power”, the cultural tourism consumption boom has swept across China, and the young groups in the new era who pursue individuality and attach importance to experience consumption have moved to the mainstream, promoting the mass market cultural tourism consumption demand gradually to the direction of individuation and diversification. In order to expand the market of Hunan embroidery cultural and creative products and promote the inheritance and dissemination of Hunan culture, this paper conducted research and analysis on young consumers（18-28 years old） of Hunan embroidery cultural and creative products, and used KANO model and Better-Worse analysis method to clarify the young consumers’ demand for Hunan embroidery cultural and creative products in the new era. Firstly, questionnaire distribution and in-depth interviews were conducted intensively in Yuelu Mountain and Orange Isle in Hunan province to obtain market research data. By integrating and analyzing the series demands of Hunan embroidery cultural and creative products, the expert team screened and classified the obtained demands of Hunan embroidery cultural and creative products by the hierarchical method, and divided the product demands into four levels: visual appearance layer, functional application layer, product quality layer and cultural connotation layer. Finally, the Better-Worse coefficient method was used to quantify the weight of each demand, and the sensitivity coefficient was increased to get the result. Based on the KANO model, it is found that among the 18 demands, undifferentiated demand（I） accounts for the largest proportion, that is, consumers of Xiang embroidery cultural and creative products are not sensitive to most of the demands of the products. According to the Better-Worse user satisfaction analysis method, the satisfaction order of various demands is calculated and it is found that the shape, color, after-sales service, interest, security and regional characteristics of Hunan embroidery products are ranked first. The results of the article suggest that doing a good job in the innovative design of Hunan embroidery cultural and creative products can start from the above needs to improve consumer satisfaction. Based on the KANO model and the analytic hierarchy process, this paper analyzes the consumer demand of Hunan embroidery cultural and creative products, which provides a theoretical method for the subsequent research on non-legacy cultural and creative products. Due to the complexity and volatility of the research samples in the selection of objects, the design of questionnaires and the implementation of interview research, it is difficult to avoid certain impact on the analysis results. Therefore, the research results may have certain limitations. In the future, factors such as humanity, region, gender and age will be further comprehensively considered, comprehensive analysis will be strengthened to provide comprehensive empirical reference, and the list of consumer demand for Hunan embroidery cultural and creative products will be enriched. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The textile image of “field hunting-patterned ribbon” unearthed from the tomb of Mashan Chu in the Warring States Period is the first to put the characters, animals and scenes in the same image. This paper improves the clothing and material system of the Warring States Period from a new visual angle. Through the research methods of imagology and narratology, the physical data and images of “field hunting-patterned ribbons” unearthed from the No.1 tomb of Chu in Mashan, Jiangling were analyzed step by step, and the image construction of field hunting characters was restored from the perspective of “pre-iconography description”, “iconography analysis” and “iconology interpretation”, the narrative characteristics of field hunting images were proposed, and the development reasons for the popularity of field hunting activities were excavated. First of all, the “pre-iconography description” focuses on the image construction of the “field hunting-patterned ribbon” fabric image, and restores the source of the “field hunting-patterned ribbon” image, the spatial composition form of “bottom line and horizon” and the role image. Secondly, the iconography analysis describes the narrative features of the fabric image of “field hunting-patterned ribbon”, and highlights the abstract visual effect, dynamic sportsmanship and juxtaposition of scene transformation through the narrative features. At last, by using the “iconology interpretation” to explain the reasons for the development of the “field hunting-patterned ribbon” fabric image, it shows that the field hunting activities led the life trend and social fashion at that time. The research shows that through the decomposition of iconography knowledge and deep digging of the image construction and restoration of “field hunting-patterned ribbons”, as well as the existence of image narrative intuitiveness, symbolism and synchronicity and other characteristics, one can feel the character endowed with a strong sportsmanship. These four image units are juxtaposed and synchronic because of their similar narrative characteristics of hunting culture. They set off the same theme and are placed in the same comprehensive space, showing Chu people’s unique artistic concept and aesthetic connotation. With the inevitable trend of multi-cultural thoughts and social unrest in the Warring States Period, a strange and novel hunting culture situation was opened up. This paper also summarizes that military, sacrificial, agricultural and entertainment factors were the main reasons for the popularity of hunting activities in the Warring States Period. In this paper, the uniqueness of “field hunting-patterned ribbons” lies first in its image. Based on the pattern image of field hunting-patterned ribbon fabrics in the Warring States Period, the color selection and pattern categories are summarized and the image construction is carried out. The essential purpose of the fabric is to deeply study the fabric itself, the social customs of Chu State in the Warring States Period, and the relationship between materiality and spirituality generated by artistic will based on the research method of image science and internal logic. At the same time, “field hunting-patterned ribbon” cleverly applied abstract visual effects and concrete scene modules in Chu art to clothing design in clothing fabric and culture, which is a continuation of its pursuit of freedom and unconstrained humanistic connotation and spiritual value. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

China's digital economy exceeded 50 trillion yuan in 2022 accounting for 41. 5 percent of GDP. As the main focus of the development of the digital economy the digital transformation of enterprises is the in-depth integration of digital technology and production methods which contributes to reshaping an enterprise's business model and enhancing its innovation capability and has a positive impact on both enterprise value and enterprise performance. The textile and apparel industry as a traditional manufacturing industry in China is one of the important pillar industries of China's national economy. The digital economy can empower textile and apparel enterprises and gradually promote the digital transformation of enterprises which is of great significance to achieving the high-quality development of the textile and apparel industry and the sustainable development of enterprises. However at present the digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises lacks theoretical and empirical guidance. The digital transformation path and the impact of digital transformation on enterprise value have not yet been clarified. Therefore based on the theoretical foundation of previous literature this paper takes textile and apparel enterprises as the research object and empirically studies the relationship between digital transformation and the enterprise value of textile and apparel enterprises. It aims to deeply analyze and explore the mechanism of the impact of the digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises on enterprise value so as to provide ideas and suggestions for the digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises and the improvement of enterprise value. Firstly this paper divided the digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises into four dimensions based on TOE Technology-Organization-Environment theory including strategic leadership organizational empowerment technology driving and environmental support. By summarizing the previous literature the theoretical assumptions between the above dimensions and enterprise value were proposed. Secondly enterprise value was taken as an explanatory variable and Tobin's Q was selected to measure the level of enterprise value. The four dimensions of digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises were taken as explanatory variables and the measurement indexes of the four dimensions were selected respectively. Moreover the entropy value method was used to assign weights to the measurement indicators to quantify the digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises. Enterprise size asset-liability ratio and the ratio of cash to total assets were used as control variables. The theoretical model between the explained variables explanatory variables and control variables was constructed to test the impact of the digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises on enterprise value. Thirdly the textile and apparel enterprises were screened from the A-share listed companies in Shanghai Exchanges and Shenzhen Exchanges and the annual data of the enterprises from 2017 to 2021 were selected as the initial sample. The initial samples were preprocessed and finally 61 textile and apparel enterprises were chosen containing annual panel data with a total of 305 observations from 2017 to 2021. The data were analyzed by standardization and descriptive statistics. According to the results of descriptive statistics it can be observed that part of the data has a wide range of polarity which indicates that there are obvious differences in the level of digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises. In order to ensure the robustness of the subsequent analysis this article carried out logarithmic processing of the data. Finally Stata software was used to carry out the Hausman test on the model and the random effect model was used to carry out regression analysis and test the proposed theoretical assumptions. This study focuses on textile and apparel enterprises and divides the dimensions of digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises enriches the research perspective of digital transformation of enterprises and empirically explores the impact of specific dimensions of digital transformation on enterprise value. The results of the study demonstrate that organizational empowerment technology driving and environmental support of textile and apparel companies have a significant positive impact on enterprise value. The effects on enterprise value in descending order are environmental support technology driving and organizational empowerment. Strategic leadership has no significant effect on enterprise value of textile and apparel enterprises. The above conclusions can provide theoretical guidance for the digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises and provide targeted suggestions for accelerating the digital transformation of enterprises and increasing enterprise value. In future research the sample size can be further expanded. At the same time the digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises in different regions of China can be compared and analyzed to understand the advantages and shortcomings of the development of textile and apparel enterprises in China. It is necessary to conduct a more profound and comprehensive discussion on the impact of digital transformation of textile and apparel enterprises on enterprise value by combining with questionnaire research and other methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Horqin Grassland is located in Tongliao city in the northeast of Inner Mongolia, and was once divided into six banners of Horqin left and right (front, middle and back). In Mongolian, Horqin is pronounced “Khorchins”, meaning “the archer”. “Aoji” means the long waistcoat or shoulder-length long coat. “Aoji” of Mongolian women in Horqin is made of black satin fabric and decorated with kujin and brocade at the edges. The embroidery patterns mainly based on flowers on Aoji are highly identifiable and representative, and are in sharp contrast with the clothing styles of other Mongolian tribes. This paper used the ethnological field investigation method to interpret the decorative features of female Aoji in Horqin from the aspects of style structure, color features, decorative forms and pattern meanings, based on the physical samples obtained through the field investigation and related literature. Three important conclusions are drawn from the research. First, Horqin Mongolian females’ Aoji is based on the cross-shaped structure of traditional Chinese clothing, forming a local decorative feature with the cross-shaped center as the angle of view. The pattern composition form of “dot”, “line” and “face” presents a strong contrast of “emptiness” and “fullness”, “virtuality” and “reality”, as well as “complexness” and “simpleness” in a seemingly “no order” composition distribution. Second, although the decorative patterns dominated by flowers are limited by the embroidery space, the embroidery form of “full” embroidery in the embroidery surface constitutes a clear, harmonious and orderly pattern layout, highlighting the local people’s aesthetic preferences of “fullness” as beauty and “abundance” as value, and reflecting the unique intelligent beauty and perceptual beauty displayed by Horqin Mongolian females’ Aoji in the decorative form. Third, the embroidery patterns dominated by flowers in Horqin Mongolian females’ Aoji mainly originated from nature. Such flower decoration is not only a local description of the natural landscape, but also contains their worship of nature and love and longing for a better life, reflecting the local Mongolian’s love and recognition of the grassland culture and ethnic memory. In this decorative form dominated by flowers, a decorative form with “fullness” as beauty is formed, and the overall sense of balance and stability of Aoji is set off by the decorative way of “filling” the part, so as to constitute the aesthetic similarity psychology of “fullness” as beauty and “abundance” as value in the decorative structure of Horqin Mongolian females’ Aoji. Through the research, it is found that the current academic studies on the Mongolian costumes in Horqin mainly focus on several aspects, such as embroidery craft, pattern implication, inheritance and development. Such studies provide a solid foundation for the protection of the Mongolian costume culture in Horqin, but they fail to dig deeply into the inner meaning and cultural value of the costumes from a macro perspective. Therefore, through in-depth collection, sorting and analysis of the overall characteristics of Horqin Mongolian costumes, based on previous studies, this paper focused on Aoji worn by local women, and tried to explain the artistic implications and cultural values behind it from the perspectives of style structure, color features, decorative forms and aesthetic features. At the same time, according to the shape characteristics of Aogi, the paper analyzed the decorative organization characteristics of Aogi from the angle of the front part. Aiming at the floral pattern composition of Aogi, this paper interpreted the perceptual beauty conveyed in its aesthetic implication. This unique decorative form, which “takes the image from nature” and focuses on flower embroidery, is not only the life practice formed in the cultural exchanges between Horqin Mongolian people and other nationalities, but also the true portrayal of nature and beautiful life and reflects the unique aesthetic and wisdom of Horqin Mongolian people. In addition, it is found through the field investigation that although the decorative form of Aoji dominated by flowers is limited by the embroidery space, in the limited embroidery space, it seems that flowers, leaves and branches are piled up “randomly”, but in fact, they are reasonably distributed through the winding combination of flowers, leaves and branches. This “free” combination form makes the local decorative embroidery patterns more diverse, so that the whole and the local Aoji show full, unified and orderly pattern matching characteristics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As a traditional pattern in China, the birds-hooking-flowers pattern was widely used in all kinds of textiles in the Tang Dynasty. And thanks to the the Silk Road, the Tang Dynasty communicated frequently with other countries, so that distinctive arts and cultures, technology and crafts were spread to the Central Plains from eastern areas, which had influence on the emergence and evolution of fabrics with birds-hooking-flowers patterns. On the basis of collating archaeological objects and combing through historical documents, this paper made a comparison between the birds-hooking-flowers patterns in the Tang Dynasty textiles and other crafts with birds-hooking-flowers patterns in Central and Eastern Asian for origin tracing. Moreover, the paper explored the changes by longitudinal comparison and analysis of local birds-hooking-flowers patterned fabrics of the Tang Dynasty. This paper drew three main conclusions. Firstly, the birds-hooking-flowers patterns in textiles of the Tang Dynasty were formed under the influence of the Western beribboned bird pattern and the weft pattern weaving technology. Secondly, the birds-hooking-flowers patterns in textiles of the Tang Dynasty showed the evolution process of imitation, innovation and finalization. The patterns showed a stylistic change from dullness to liveliness throughout the whole Tang Dynasty: (i) the first stage of the development of birds-hooking-flowers patterns was influenced a lot from the Sassanid Persian style, and it was the imitation stage of birds-hooking-flowers patterns for the absorption. And the patterns showed as a dull pair of birds standing on the platform composed with flowers or pearl-linked patterns. Besides, the external part was usually decorated with the pearl-linked skeleton roundel; (ii) during the period of prime Tang Dynasty to middle Tang Dynasty, the birds in the were mostly Chinese native ones, with things in their beaks being a symbol of the good wishes. In the aspect of composition, the skeleton of the early boundaries were gradually broke through and the birds showed the dynamic style of flying up high; (iii) from the late Tang Dynasty to the Five Dynasties, the patterns experienced the evolution of localization. The birds-hooking-flowers patterns often showed the combination of a winged bird and a S-shaped long-stemmed twig, which had the similar traits with the bird-and-flower paintings of the same period. Thirdly, the evolution of the birds-hooking-flowers patterns in the Tang Dynasty textiles can be divided into the development patterns of the bird surrounded by pearl-roundel and the bird standing on the platform. The form of the former was influenced by Ling Yang Gong sample, so that the pattern retained the appearance of the roundel skeleton, and pearl-linked motifs were replaced by plant motifs. Later, the skeleton became non-closed circular trajectory to imitate the previous skeleton; The latter pattern was gradually manifested by a single flying bird hooking a twig. And the bird increasingly broke through the boundaries of the flower platform and presented the dynamic posture. Furthermore, the proportion of plant elements increased a lot in the whole pattern, which reflected the aesthetic idea of placement of the landscape. This paper systematically collects, collates and analyses the textiles decorated with birds-hooking-flowers patterns in the Tang Dynasty. And from the perspective of the Silk Road, it traces the source of the motifs, weaving techniques and cultural origins, and explores the changes in the form. The paper gives a view to filling the gap in the study of the birds-hooking-flowers patterns in textiles of the Tang Dynasty. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the rise of the sports boom and the promotion of health awareness, female consumers’ demand for sports bras is increasing, and sports bra products have attracted the attention of the sports industry and the underwear industry. Traditional sports brands and lingerie brands such as NIKE, Under Armour, Triumph, and AIMER have launched sports bra product lines, and independent sports underwear brands such as Lorna Jane and YVETTE have grown rapidly, so the market competition is increasingly fierce. However, with the improvement of people’s living standards, consumer demand for sports bras has become more diverse and variable. As a result, homogeneous sports bra products can no longer satisfy consumers. Therefore, how to dig the explicit and implicit demand, so as to help enterprises to improve the quality of goods and services is an urgent problem to be solved. In the era of big data, the analysis and mining of user information data has become an important way to obtain user needs and track market conditions in various industries. Among them, online reviews are one of the important carriers of user demand information, and through effective analysis of online review data and extraction of core comment words, we can understand the pain points of products or services and help enterprises evaluate the differences of products and services, and guide the improvement of product design and service quality. To deeply explore the user demands of sports bras, this paper took online reviews of sports bra products as the research object, proposed a research framework based on the BTM model and Kano model, effectively combined two methods of data mining technology and questionnaire survey, and carried out research from the three parts of user demands mining, user demands analysis, and suggestions and countermeasures. This study took Taobao and JD as the collection platforms, selected 10 representative sports bra brands, and crawled 16 248 online reviews using Python language. The BTM model was used to identify the topic, and the number of topics and related topic feature words obtained were used to form the user demand elements of sports bra which contained 6 first-level indicators and 23 second-level indicators. Then, through Kano questionnaire survey and model analysis, the satisfaction index SSI and dissatisfaction index DDSI were established, and the relationship between demand satisfaction and user satisfaction was analyzed to determine the attribute classification of user demands. Furthermore, the requirement degree ω was introduced to further subdivide the importance degree of each requirement element in the same class attribute, and the priority order of user requirements was obtained. The research results show that the user demand dimension of sports bras includes six aspects: functional quality, style design, fabric material, color appearance, service quality, and brand marketing; among the 23 elements of user demand, there are 4 must-be qualities (M), 10 one-dimensional qualities (O), 3 attractive qualities (A), and 6 indifferent qualities (I); according to the priority order, comfort and shock-proof function are the primary factors to establish user satisfaction, bottom circumference, cup size, fabric feel, and breast cushion material are the key factors to improve user satisfaction in product optimization, while customer service attitude, return and exchange service, reputation and word of mouth, and product information are the important factors affecting user satisfaction in service and marketing. This paper realizes the attribute classification and priority ordering of sports bra users’ needs by effectively using online review information and combining with BTM text mining technology and the Kano model, providing a new perspective and a new method for the research of sports bra users’ needs. At the same time, based on the research results, optimization suggestions are put forward from the three aspects of product development, user service and brand marketing, which provides theoretical reference for related enterprises to improve product value and market competitiveness. In the subsequent research, the emotional tendencies of users on different demands will be studied, and the sentiment analysis technology will be used to identify online reviews, so as to locate user demand more accurately and comprehensively. In addition, user demand for sports bras will be affected by factors such as age, exercise frequency, exercise duration and exercise intensity. In the future, the differences in user demand for sports bras under various factors, as well as the correlation degree between each factor and user demand will be further analyzed, so as to provide theoretical reference and basis for the differential design, precision marketing and classification refinement of sports bras. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sweat is the liquid secreted by the sweat glands of the human body and is distributed in all parts of the body, while sweat contains a wealth of information about human health. In addition to water, sweat contains electrolytes, metabolites, heavy metals, hormones, proteins, etc. The levels of electrolytes and other components in sweat can change significantly depending on the physical condition and environmental conditions, so the assessment of human health status can be realized by monitoring specific components in sweat. Compared with other biological fluids, sweat is easy to be collected and shows unique advantages in the field of wearable sensors, especially in health tracking and monitoring during human movement. In recent years, the rapid development of flexible wearable sensors and electronic device technologies has greatly facilitated the research on wearable sweat sensors. Currently, portable devices have been developed to capture the energy in sweat and store it. As the research on flexible sweat sensors continues to deepen, corresponding progress has been made in the design of wearable flexible sweat sensors, which are expected to play a greater role in the fields of healthcare, human movement monitoring, and aerospace. Flexible wearable electronic devices need to match the bending and stretching of human skin without affecting the wearer’s daily activities. Since most of the substrates of traditional wearable sensors are rigid and cannot meet the wearable use of people, the research of flexible substrate materials has become the focus of the field of flexible sensors at this stage. Starting from the types of substrate materials for flexible sweat sensors, this paper described in detail the substrate materials commonly used for sweat sensors in recent years and briefly outlined the applications of flexible sweat sensors in monitoring. Finally, it summarized the current limitations and prospects for future development. Flexible wearable sensors are now becoming the next generation of smart wearable tools, capable of capturing information about the human body and its surroundings in an intelligent, easy and real-time manner. However, there are still some problems. Firstly, in terms of sweat collection and utilization, due to environmental and physiological differences, there are variations in sweat levels in individuals and body parts. The chemical composition of sweat can vary depending on where it is collected and how it is extracted. Age and gender differences also affect the composition of sweat. Secondly, in most cases, polymer films are used as substrates and precious metals as conductive electrodes for sensors; therefore, these sensors have such main drawbacks as poor breathability, wearing comfort and high price. Finally, in addition to the comfort of wearing the sweat sensor and the sensitivity of sweat detection, it is also necessary to consider whether human movement and environmental changes during the wearing process will affect the detection performance and sensitivity. To address the above issues, a standardized and personalized sweat composition database with dynamic fluctuation range can be established in the future, which can lay the foundation for further development and application of flexible sensors. It has become a trend to develop natural and low-cost materials such as textile substrate materials and paper substrate materials for the preparation of wearable textile sweat sensors, which can satisfy the comfort and breathability of their wearing. With the researchers’ in-depth study of preparation methods and practical applications, flexible wearable sensors will be more widely used, and wearable devices are expected to play an important role in the future monitoring of daily health and physical activities, as well as in the prevention, diagnosis, treatment and healing of diseases. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ribbons, as an ornament worn by officials in the Song Dynasty, not only recorded the real face of official life in the Song Dynasty, but also carried the historical memory of social development in the Song Dynasty. The rank of the officials in the Song Dynasty can be distinguished by the different brocade patterns on the ribbons they wore. Therefore, the ribbon patterns of official clothing in the Song Dynasty are of great value to study the hierarchical system of official clothing, social ideology and artistic characteristics of Song brocade. Based on ancient documents and fabric image data, this paper made an in-depth analysis of the evolution of official clothing ribbons in the Song Dynasty, the characteristics of their patterns and the cultural implications. Three major important conclusions were drawn. First, the ribbon was an ornament to show the power and responsibility of officials. Initially, officials determined the crowns and ribbons according to the level and divided them into three grades. During the Kangding period, the clothing system was revised again. With the joining of Fangsheng brocade, the ribbons were divided into fourth grades. In the second year of Yuanfeng, to unify official names and positions, and balance rights and responsibility, the crowns and ribbons were determined according to official positions, so the Song Dynasty clothing system tended to be mature and stable. Second, the ribbons were used to identify the rank of officials according to their different brocade patterns. Influenced by the traditional social order and neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty, the ribbon patterns not only had the beauty of harmony, unity, symmetry and balance, but also had the beauty of continuous repetition and moderate contrast rhythm, with high artistic value. Third, as a symbol of the traditional hierarchical order, the ribbons conveyed changing ideas in an explicit or implicit way. They were conducive to the safeguarding of national governance and the continuation of the inherent hierarchical order, satisfied the pursuit and desire of officials for their status, and were easy to cultivate good self-drive morality of officials, thus enhancing the cohesion of the ruling team and safeguarding the long-term stability of the country. This paper systematically and deeply collected, collated and analyzed the evolution of the ribbons worn in official clothing of the Song Dynasty, clarified the names, users and scope of application of the ribbon patterns, summarized the artistic characteristics and cultural implications of the ribbon patterns. It is helpful to improve the inheritance of hierarchical order information in the Song Dynasty, restore the original appearance of official life, ideology and aesthetic expression in the Song Dynasty, and have a deeper understanding of the ribbon patterns, which has certain reference value for exploring the hierarchical system of official clothing in the Song Dynasty. With the change of dynasties and the development of the times, ribbons no longer have the function of highlighting the status of the wearer and conveying the value of honor, but the meaning of happiness and health contained in them has been loved by people until now, and is widely used in modern textile pattern design. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

China is the world’s largest producer and exporter of silk products, as well as a major consumer of silk products. Luster, as one of the main components of the visual style and appearance of silk products, is an important indicator for evaluating the appearance quality of silk fabrics. Therefore, the testing and evaluation of the luster of silk fabrics is of great significance for better style of products and enhancing the visual appearance of the fabrics. The evaluation methods for the luster of fabrics are mainly divided into subjective evaluation methods and instrumental testing methods. Subjective evaluation methods rely on human subjective perceptions with unstable consequences. The instrumental methods can only measure the luster of part surface of the fabrics. When the luster distribution of the fabrics is uneven, the test results are inaccurate. Comparison with other evaluation methods, there are many advantages on the technology of image processing. However, in most studies of luster evaluation based on image processing, the models established can only perform well for specific sample sets with poor generalization abilities. The reason is that the effective features of fabric luster images remain to be further studied in the construction of the key luster features of fabric images. In this paper, white, blue, black, pink and brown silk crepe satin plain fabrics were selected as samples, and the samples were washed by a programmable standard washing machine. The spectral data of the samples were collected by a spectrophotometer, and the subjective scores of the samples were obtained through visual experiments. Exploratory cluster analysis was carried out on the collected data set to obtain the structural characteristics of the data set, and correlation analysis and factor analysis were carried out to explore the influencing factors of the subjective evaluation of fabric luster. The results show that in the color space CIE L*a*b*, a* and b* have a correlation of-0. 45 with the subjective evaluation of samples, while the correlation between color brightness and subjective evaluation is low. In the general linear model analysis of the effects of a* and b*, it is found that the change of fabric color significantly affects the subjective cores of fabric luster. The results of factor analysis show that the change of spectral reflectance of samples has the highest impact on the subjective score of fabric luster in the wavelength range of 530 nm to 560 nm. On this basis, the image analysis of fabric luster was carried out in this paper, and features such as non-uniformity, luster grade and highlight ratio of the image were constructed. These three features can better reflect the contrast characteristics of the highlights and background brightness of the fabric, and it is concluded that the contrast characteristics of the highlights and background brightness of the fabric are the key factors to evaluate the luster of the fabric based on image processing technology. In the human visual system, there is a phenomenon that enhances higher gray level and reduces lower gray level when human eyes are gazing at different grayscale edges. It is the high contrast between the bright spots and the background of silk fabrics that makes silk fabrics have a shiny luster. Compared with neural network or other integrated learning models, this method has more intuitive indexes, and is different from other fabric luster evaluation technologies based on image processing. It does not require learning and training on a specific sample set, so it will have a more promising application prospect.   [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the development of economy and the improvement of information technology, more and more consumers begin to pursue high-quality clothing, seeking to improve their wearing experience and meet the needs of individuality and fashion through customizing their clothes. As a result, personalized customization of clothing has become one of the fashion trends. China Textile Industry Development Plan（2016-2020） proposes to position the development of a mass customization as the key development direction, rely on the e-commerce platform, and use information technology, intelligent design, flexible manufacturing and intelligent logistics and other technologies to achieve the speed and cost of mass production to explore a mass customization production mode featuring small batches and multiple varieties. Additionally, the plan emphasizes the need to accelerate the construction of industrial automation and digitization. However, the application of information technology in traditional clothing production is currently fragmented, with a lack of integration of information technology applications according to the personalized customization mode of clothing.This paper aimed to integrate interdisciplinary research results in order to promote the precise integration of information technology and the personalized clothing customization mode. First, it summarized the research progress of information technology in the clothing industry and expounded on the application of new generation information technology in the clothing industry. Then, it analyzed the current application status of information technology in the field of personalized clothing customization, with focus on the development status of personalized clothing customization and the application of information technology in each link. The research was divided into the modules of user demand acquisition and management, intelligent energy body, personalized clothing design and recommendation, intelligent procurement, and intelligent production. The advantages and disadvantages of information technology in improving production efficiency, reducing costs and meeting user needs were summarized. The first issue identified is the lack of information about consumers’ educational background, working environment and income level in the process of user demand mining. Additionally, there is a lack of data sets for users’ personalized customization needs. In the human body measurement link, the accuracy and personalization of remote body measurement do not meet the fit requirements for clothing customization. The recommendation algorithm used in the clothing recommendation system faces problems such as cold start and data sparsity and fails to adjust to complex and changeable popular trends in a timely manner. Furthermore, due to the lack of accurate acquisition of user needs, the recommendation results are inaccurate. In the intelligent procurement module, the existing supply chain system is still dominated by fixed suppliers, hindering the realization of personalized supply coordination. The intelligent production module lacks research and application of collaborative production for customized products, resulting in the inability to adjust according to changing user needs. Based on these findings, the study comprehensively examined the personalized customization process from a global perspective, emphasizing the importance of collaboration in all aspects. It reveals that while different degrees of digital upgrading have been achieved in each link of clothing personalized customization, overall information sharing and synergy between modules are low. To address these issues, the paper proposes improving the modeling technology of each link of personalized clothing customization using an industry 4.0 architecture. This approach aims to reconstruct the personalized customization process, realize data sharing and optimal control between modules, and enhance productivity, speed, accuracy, flexibility and competitiveness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To maintain the stability of the imperial power in the traditional society, the Han Dynasty established an effective civil official system. It showed a new appearance of civil and military co-rule. Based on this social background, the Jinxian crown came into being. It became the symbol of civil officials, and the Jinxian image was born since then. The core of the Jinxian image lies in the word “Jinxian”, which implies that the wearer of this crown should recommend the virtuous. As one of the earliest male crowns of the Han Dynasty, the Jinxian crown could be worn by nobles or minor officials in the early Han Dynasty. Having forming many styles in the development and evolution of later generations, it was an integral part of men’s headdress in traditional Chinese society. The paper aims to study the Jinxian image of civilian officials in the crown image system of the Han nationality, and to demonstrate the origin, shape and use of the Jinxian crown of the Han Dynasty based on the historical materials of the Han Dynasty’s portrait bricks.Through the image data of Han Dynasty’s portrait brick remains, this paper sorted out the changes of Jinxian crowns in different periods. The innovation point is to make up for the lack of physical objects in the early Han Dynasty with the help of image historical materials to ensure the accuracy of the research and to date the origin of the Jinxian crown. As a derivative developed from the official system in the Han Dynasty, the Jinxian crown already formed its basic pattern in the Western Han Dynasty. Originating from the single crown in the Western Han Dynasty, and with the combination of the single crown, Yanti（an ancient turban covering the forehead） and Jieze（a long-eared turban）, the shape and system of Jinxian crowns were established under the influence of the increasingly perfect official system and etiquette thought after the transition and fusion stage of the Western Han Dynasty and Wang Mang period. At the same time, the study summarized the basic structure of the Jinxian crown in the research process, compared the relevant research on the Jinxian crown of the Han Dynasty, and concluded that the basic structure of the Jinxian crown in the Han Dynasty included Yanti, Jieze, the ear, the crown and the crown beam.As a valuable material for studying social life in the Han Dynasty, the unique stone reliefs in the Han Dynasty show the lifestyle of different classes from the social perspective of the Han Dynasty. The study took this as a starting point to explore the practical influence brought by the evolution of the shape and system of male Jinxian crowns in the Han Dynasty from the traditional Chinese value orientation of the Han Dynasty inheriting from the Qin Dynasty. It was mainly reflected in the fact that the social development of the Han Dynasty promoted and strengthened the sociality of headdress, and the basic shape and use of Jinxian crowns changed with the change of regime. From the perspective of the situation in which the Jinxian crown was used in the Han Dynasty society, the study concluded that it had the symbolic meaning of identification, dignity and etiquette and demonstrated the unique shape and symbol representation of the Jinxian crown in the Han Dynasty, which left a deep imprint on the official and civilian classes in the traditional Chinese society.Through the research on the Jinxian crown, the study draw the following conclusions and made corresponding prospects. As the source of the development of the civil officials’ headdress system in the Han Dynasty, the Jinxian crown integrated the ruling thought in the evolution process and became a cultural carrier combining the functions of etiquette, aesthetics and symbolism, and also became a material carrier of the Han Dynasty’s multi-culture, making it a significant motivation to promote the development of the later generations’ headdress system. The shape and system of the Jinxian crown in the Han Dynasty were relatively simple. Still, its origin and evolution reflect the active thoughts of officials and ordinary people in the early Han Dynasty. The social changes brought by its exaggerated symbolism suggest that the Han Dynasty began to turn from prosperity to decline. The evolving trend of the symbol of the Jinxian crown enriched the cultural content of Han costume. It deepened the class barrier of Chinese feudal society. By studying the image of officials in the Han Dynasty, we can find the multi-dimensional performance of the Han men’s headdress in different periods and spaces and supplement the contemporary research system of headdress. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The rapid development of wearable smart textiles has led to in-depth research on conductive yarns and flexible sensors. The most common conductive yarn on the market is metal-based conductive yarn. Such a yarn and the functional fabrics thereof have excellent electrical conductivity and play an important role in wearable applications. However, various external factors may affect its structure and electrical conductivity in the actual use process. The durability is an important indicator for evaluating such smart textiles.In this paper, to explore the factors affecting the durability of conductive yarns and flexible sensors, five typical metal conductive yarns were selected. Firstly, the effects of washing times, heat setting temperature, and oxidation time on the resistance of conductive yarns were analyzed. The influence of these three factors on the durability of each conductive yarn was expressed by analyzing the change in the resistance of each sample compared with the original resistance at different lengths. Then, considering the difficulty of weaving each yarn and the requirements of fabric performance, 77 dtex silver-plated conductive yarn was selected to weave flexible sensors of different sizes. It was subjected to 30 washing tests, and the active navy blue BF-DB was used for dyeing treatment. By comparing with the original sample, the influence of washing and dyeing on the performance of the sensor was analyzed by the change of equivalent resistance under different horizontal and vertical lines of the flexible sensor.The results show that the three factors have the greatest influence on the electrical conductivity of copper fibers, while the durability is the worst. The copper wire and stainless steel conductive yarn, as a single component of metal filaments, have the smallest resistance change rate and stable electrical conductivity after multiple washing, heat drying under different temperatures and treatment of different oxidation times, indicating that they have good washing resistance, heat resistance and oxidation resistance. The mechanical force of washing will cause damage to the conductive layer on the surface of the metal-coated yarn. When the coating is defective, with the increase in washing times, the resistance of two silver-plated conductive yarns with different densities increases to a certain extent. The thermal shrinkage of nylon-based silver-plated yarns occurs after the heat setting temperature increases. When the yarn is shortened, the contact degree of each particle in the conductive layer increases, so the resistance decreases and the heat resistance is satisfactory. After 20 days of oxidation treatment, the conductivity is significantly weakened, so the oxidation resistance of the silver-plated conductive yarns is poor. The surface morphology of the flexible sensor woven by the 77 dtex silver-plated conductive yarn changes after multiple washing treatments, but its equivalent resistance value decreases due to the reduction of vertical and horizontal dimensions, so its washing resistance is satisfactory. When dyed with reactive dyes, the flexible sensor is in a high-temperature and high-humidity environment. The coil becomes larger after the fiber expands, and the fiber shrinks after cooling to make its size smaller. The equivalent resistance value is reduced to a certain extent, and it can still maintain stable conductivity, indicating that it has excellent dyeing resistance. The experimental results of this paper can provide reference for subsequent research on the factors influencing the durability of conductive materials, and inspiration for the selection of suitable conductive yarns to develop more excellent and stable wearable sensors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

China has entered a new era of economic growth driven by technological progress and advancements. The coordinated development of industrial robots and human employment have become an important component of high-quality industrial development. The application of industrial robots in the textile industry has improved efficiency, flexibility, continuity of production, and transformational upgrades throughout the industry. This has, however, also been accompanied by a decline employment number. From 2007 to 2019, the number of workers employed by industrial enterprises in China’s textile industry decreased from 10.857 5 million to 6.934 9 million. In this context, studying the employment effects of the application of industrial robots in the textile industry, exploring how to create high-quality employment through digital and smart technology transformation, and achieving broad integration of industrial robots in production, interaction, and collaboration with the labor force, are necessary for the modernization of the textile industry as a whole. This paper seeks to provide new ideas and reference for the formulation of relevant labor-intensive industrial policies in the context of industrial robot integration and modernization.Firstly, the industrial robot data of the textile industry from the International Federation of Robotics and the employment data of the textile, garment, and chemical fiber manufacturing industries from China’s Industry Manufacturing Classification System were used to synthesize provincial panel data ranging from 2007 to 2019. Secondly, the fixed effect model was used to empirically analyze the impact and integration mechanisms of industrial robots on the quantity and quality of employment in the textile industry. Finally, a robustness test was conducted by substituting explanatory variables and instrumental variable methods. Heterogeneity testing was also conducted from four dimensions: the opportunity of textile industry transfer and the rate of evolution of the development level, the gender structure of workers, the skill structure of workers, and the stages of application for industrial robots. This study saught to verify the moderating effect of human capital on the impact of industrial robot application where quantity and quality of employment are concerned. Heterogeneity testing based on the spatiotemporal characteristics of the textile industry and the characteristics of workers was also conducted. The results show that the application of industrial robots in the textile industry has a significantly negative impact on employment numbers and promotes the improvement of employment quality. The advancement of human capital weakens the quantity substitution effect and quality improvement effect of industrial robots. There is spatial, gender, skill, and temporal heterogeneity in the impact of industrial robot application on employment. In terms of space, industrial robots have an employment substitution effect in provinces with stable development and improved development of the textile industry in addition to employment creation effects in provinces with reduced development. Industrial robots have a more prominent role in improving the employment quality of the textile industry in provinces with stable development, but have no significant impact on the employment quality in other provinces. In terms of gender, the substitution effect of industrial robots on males is greater than on females. In terms of skills, the application of industrial robots replaces low-skilled workers, while increasing the number of R＆D personnel. In terms of time, the substitution effect of industrial robot integration on the number of employees before 2013 and the improvement effect on the quality of employment after 2013 are more significant.This paper explores the impact, mechanism, and heterogeneity of industrial robot application in the textile industry on the quantity and quality of employment. It expands the theoretical research on the impact of digital and smart technology transformation on employment in labor-intensive industries. It provides important reference value for coordinating the relationships between industrial robots and human beings for the deep integration of artificial intelligence technologies such as industrial robots in textile industry, and promoting high-quality employment and enriching the people in the industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Nowadays the traditional Chinese costume cultural activities themed around "the Song Dynasty" are flourishing. To meet the diverse needs of consumers clothing brands are drawing inspiration from the Song Dynasty costumes and design innovative costumes with aesthetic elements of the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty costume and artifact culture is an important source of innovative design of contemporary costume and artifact culture. Therefore the study of costume and artifact culture and its aesthetics in the Song Dynasty is of significant importance which provides new ideas and necessary theoretical support for the inheritance and innovation of traditional costumes. From the perspective of artifact culture the paper used the literature research method image research method and comparative research method to induce and infer the cultural connotation and aesthetic value of costumes and artifacts in the Song Dynasty. Three important conclusions were drawn. First the attitude of the Song people towards the culture of furniture porcelain and costume and artifact reflected not only the traditional thought that "great truths are always simple" but also literati spirit and "secularization". Therefore the ceremonial dress in the Song Dynasty followed an orderly tradition with strict hierarchy and orderliness while the casual wear in the Song Dynasty emphasized practicality and suitability for easy wearing combining beauty and practical functions which gave it an aesthetic charm that can be appreciated by both refined and popular tastes. Second the upper class in the Song Dynasty attached great importance to regulations on headwear and clothing and laws and etiquette regulations stipulated the clothing of all social classes in the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty costumes basically followed the principles of elegance simplicity and prioritized "quality" over "ornamentation". However due to the influence of factors such as commodity economy urban prosperity literati spirit and secularization the Song people advocated practical dressing while pursuing elegant demeanor. As a result the overall clothing style remained elegant and simple but the local decorations emphasized exquisite craftsmanship richness and elegance. The soft and tranquil colors combined with harmonious color matching produced a distinctive visual effect and possessed high aesthetic value. Third the economic prosperity in the Song Dynasty stimulated consumption among the populace which in turn drove production. This led to the continuation of traditional costume and artifact culture as well as creative innovations of it in the Song Dynasty resulting in a certain level of sophistication in clothing creation. In the Song Dynasty the basic structure of tie-belt with hidden buckle appeared containing profound creation thoughts which endows it with a modern-oriented characteristic of convenience and practicality. This is an important reason why the Hanfu of the Song Dynasty style can be popularized in contemporary society. The article systematically and thoroughly collects organizes and analyzes furniture porcelain and clothing styles in the Song Dynasty as well as their color decoration. It not only studies from the perspective of the Song Dynasty costume culture but also from the perspective of the Song Dynasty artifact culture examining cultural forms such as modeling technique craft and style. The article searches for clues in ancient books handed-down images and unearthed cultural relics trying to minimize the one-sidedness caused by the limitations of a single artifact perspective. The article studies the cultural connotation and aesthetic value of costumes and artifacts in the Song Dynasty so as to provide certain insights and reference for the design of the Song Dynasty Hanfu as well as new ideas and necessary theoretical support for the inheritance and innovation of traditional costumes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The liquid water transport and rapid drying behavior in fabrics usually referred to as moisture absorption and rapid drying means that when the human body generates a lot of sweat during intense exercise sweat can be quickly absorbed and transmitted to the outer surface of fabrics to quickly volatilize so that the body can maintain a dry and comfortable function. The behavior directly affects the human wearing comfort and health status. According to the current development trend of functional fabrics moisture absorption and rapid drying has become a basic requirement for underwear sports medical and clothing in other fields and has bright prospects for development. Combined with the exploration of related fields by researchers it can be seen that the liquid water transport and rapid drying in fabrics has become a research hotspot which makes the law of moisture absorption and rapid drying properties increasingly clear and the characterization methods are increasingly accurate and diversified. However as the liquid water transport and rapid drying in fabrics is affected by many factors it is necessary to strengthen the guidance of the research results for the actual product development. To keep the human body in a comfortable state when people sweat during exercise the study took polyester woven fabrics as the research object to characterize the liquid water transport and rapid drying behavior in fabrics. Firstly the drip diffusion test and water evaporation rate test of 10 kinds of fabrics with different specifications were carried out with the help of image processing technology and the data of water transport process were accurately obtained. Then the indexes of liquid water transport and rapid drying in fabrics were put forward such as the drip diffusion time maximum transmission time maximum transmission area maximum transmission span in the warp and weft direction and evaporation rate and the moisture absorption and rapid drying performance of fabrics was analyzed. Finally the factors influencing the moisture absorption and rapid drying performance were analyzed by multiple regression method. The results show that liquid water transport and rapid drying in fabrics undergo four stages the initial stage the weight loss increasing stage the stable stage and the weight loss decreasing stage. The appearance of the four stages is related to structural factors such as fabric structure fabric thickness yarn linear density yarn arrangement density and mass per square meter of fabrics. The liquid water transport in fabrics is first affected by the fabric thickness which will weaken the surface spreading of liquid water and is then affected by the yarn linear density which affects the evaporation of liquid water spreading by affecting the surface pores of fabrics. The warp density and weft density are influenced by matching with the thread density of the yarn. This study reveals the transport behavior of liquid water by observing the change of transport domain in fabrics thus proposing the corresponding evaluation index system and analyzing complex relationship between liquid water transport and fabric structure by multiple regression method. The method of characterizing liquid water transport and rapid drying behavior in this paper provides a new solution for clothing comfort and has important guiding significance for the research and development of high-quality sportswear fabrics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Polyethylene terephthalate PET is commonly used in textiles and apparel automotive interior and other fields due to its excellent properties such as high strength and chemical stability. With the rapid development and expansion of polyester textiles the accumulation of waste polyester textiles is also increasing year by year. However the waste polyester textiles are difficult to be degraded naturally posing a significant environmental threat. Recycling waste PET textiles is therefore crucial. Previous studies have identified two main methods for recycling waste polyester textiles the physical method and the chemical method. The physical method involves regenerating the textiles through simple melting and granulation but this method does not produce recycled products with good quality and stable performance. The chemical method involves using a depolymerising agent to break down waste polyester textiles into small molecules. These molecules are then polymerized to create a recycled polyester product. This process is a crucial method for producing highquality recycled polyester products. Currently chemical methods primarily consist of hydrolysis alcoholysis and enzymatic hydrolysis. Among them the glycol alcoholysis-methanol ester exchange method has gained popularity due to its mild reaction conditions. However it suffers from low product yield and the formation of oligomers during the alcoholysis stage. Additionally the ester exchange stage requires a complex product purification process. Current research is focused on addressing these issues. To address the issues of low product yields and increased oligomers in the glycolysis-methanol ester exchange process this study suggested the use of K2 CO3 / KOH synergistic alcoholysis on discarded polyester textiles. Firstly the inexpensive potassium carbonate was used as the primary catalyst in the alcoholysis stage. KOH was also introduced to co-polymerize the waste polyester textiles. Secondly the response surface method was employed to optimize the process parameters in the alcoholysis stage resulting in the identification of the optimal process parameters. Finally the purification method was optimized in the ester-exchange stage based on the phase transition property of DMT leading to the preparation of highpurity regenerated DMT. This paper introduced the use of KOH in the alcoholysis stage to co-polymerize waste polyester textiles. This reduced the oligomer content in the alcoholysis products and increased the BHET yield. In the ester exchange stage a simple decompression sublimation method was used to purify the regenerated DMT. The purification process was also optimized. The experimental results indicate that the K2 CO3 / KOH synergistic alcoholysis of waste polyester textiles primarily produced BHET. The regenerated BHET yield demonstrated an increasing trend with the addition of KOH peaking at 70. 2% when the KOH addition reached 2%. The process parameters of the alcoholysis stage were optimized by using response surface methodology. The optimal conditions were determined to be a reaction temperature of 210 ℃ a reaction time of 120 minutes K2 CO3 content of 2. 0% and KOH content of 2. 4%. These conditions resulted in a regenerated BHET yield of 73. 1%. The regenerated DMT achieved a purity of over 99% after undergoing purification through decompression sublimation during the ester exchange stage. Efficient purification of the regenerated DMT was achieved. To enhance the reaction efficiency and product yield of waste polyester textiles a cost-effective and viable method is the synergistic depolymerization of waste polyester textiles with K2 CO3 / KOH to prepare regenerated DMT. The research provides valuable reference for the environmentally friendly recycling of waste polyester textiles and lays a foundation for producing high-quality regenerated polyester downstream. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The photonic crystal structure can produce vivid and bright colors by interacting with light in interference diffraction and scattering with its own physical structure. Compared with traditional chemical dyeing structural colors have enormous potential application value in the field of textile coloring because of their bright luster and environmental friendliness. Numerous studies show that self-assembly of colloidal microspheres on the surface of textiles to construct photonic crystal structures to generate structural colors is an effective method for preparing structural color textiles especially represented by impregnation methods such as gravity deposition and vertical deposition. However the impregnation method has disadvantages of low efficiency and high energy consumption which limits its promotion and application. Therefore it is urgent to develop preparation technology with high preparation efficiency and low equipment requirements. In addition to the preparation technology the performance of textile substrates is also an important factor affecting the development of structural colors based on photonic crystals. Numerous studies have found that the background color of the substrate has a significant impact on the brightness of the structural colors of photonic crystals. It is unanimously found that a black background is most conducive to constructing photonic crystals with bright structural colors while photonic crystals constructed on a white background have the darkest structural colors. At present the most common practice is to first dye the textile substrate with black materials and then the treated textile is used as the substrate to construct photonic crystals. Pre-coloring not only increases the preparation process but also consumes energy and time. It is a hot research topic to obtain bright structural colors based photonic crystals quickly and efficiently on white textile substrates. Vacuum-assisted filtration is a method that utilizes the negative pressure generated during vacuum pumping to achieve solid-liquid separation. It has the advantages of simple operation high preparation efficiency and simple equipment. Based on this if the colloidal microsphere dispersion is treated as filtrate the process of colloidal microsphere stacking to form photonic crystals happens to be the process of microsphere loading on the textile substrate. This provides a possibility for constructing photonic crystal color structures on textile substrate via vacuum-assisted filtration method. To construct structural colors based on photonic crystals on white silk fabrics the article used poly methyl methacrylate P St-MAA colloidal microspheres as the basic building blocks of the photonic crystal structure and a structural color generation assembly solution was prepared by adapting acidic black dyes then the vacuum-assisted filtration and hand drawing methods were respectively proposed to achieve the color generation of photonic crystal structures on white silk fabrics. First the influence of the dosage of microsphere assembly solution on the structural coloration in the vacuumassisted filtration process was investigated. The motion mechanism of microsphere forming photonic crystals on silk fabrics under vacuum-assisted filtration conditions was explored. Afterwards the rainbow effect of photonic crystal structure on colored silk fabrics was discussed. Finally in order to achieve patterned color generation of photonic crystal structures on silk fabrics the application effect of the hand drawing method in color generation of photonic crystal structures on silk fabrics was studied. The characteristics of black color absorbing transmitted and scattered light outside the photonic bandgap can enhance the color saturation of photonic crystal structural colors. This paper used acidic black dyes as absorbing materials and mixed them with P St-MAA colloidal microspheres to form a structural color assembly solution. The photonic crystal color structure was constructed on white silk fabrics by using vacuum-assisted filtration and hand drawing methods to achieve the coloring of silk fabrics. The results show that in the vacuum-assisted filtration process when the dosage of assembly solution is 2. 4 L/ m² 223 nm P St-MAA colloidal microspheres can simultaneously construct photonic crystals with brighter structural colors on both sides of the silk fabric. At this time the peak reflectivity of the front and back sides of the structural colored silk fabric is about 18% suggesting double-sided coloring of the silk fabric is achieved. By comparing the arrangement of 295 nm P St-MAA colloidal microspheres on the silk fabric at different times it is found that the microspheres preferentially construct photonic crystal structures on the opposite side of the silk fabric meaning that the assembly process of P St-MAA colloidal microspheres is "reverse first and then forward". The photonic crystal structure constructed on the silk fabric via vacuum-assisted filtration can obtain structural colors with low iridescent effect which is similar to the coloring effect of conventional dyes or pigments and is expected to partially replace traditional dyes or pigments in coloring. By hand drawing P St-MAA colloidal microsphere assembly solutions with particle sizes of 197 nm 223 nm 245 nm and 295 nm are used as structural colorants to prepare patterned photonic crystal structural colors of monochrome bicolor and multi-color on the silk fabric achieving personalized processing of structural colors. The vacuum-assisted filtration method and hand drawing method provide new ways for the rapid preparation of structural colored textiles based on photonic crystals. The results of this study will contribute to providing a practical basis for the application of photonic crystal structure coloring in textile coloring. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Silk is a distinct element in the Belt and Road Initiative and is an important carrier of Chinese civilization and national industry. However with the industrial transformation technological upgrading and the development of times the characteristics of the silk industry as a traditional industry have become increasingly obvious and the industry is facing development bottlenecks such as market shrinkage and undiversified products. Digital dissemination based on the increasingly mature network environment and digital technology is of great benefit in promoting traditional industries to adapt to the new stage creating new growth drivers building new business forms and reshaping new impressions. Nevertheless it can be found through the investigation of the application status of digital dissemination in the silk industry in Zhejiang province that silk enterprises have "different degrees of cognition" of digital dissemination "uneven" practice of digital dissemination and "differently positioned" value of digital dissemination. In general Zhejiang silk industry has explored digital dissemination to some extent but no consistent views and actions have been formed in cognitive depth application heat and thinking direction. Especially the explicit characteristics of using digital dissemination to develop the silk industry from the perspective of the Belt and Road are not distinct enough. The crux of the problem lies in three aspects. Firstly the matching degree between enterprise management thinking and the essence of international dissemination is poor. Secondly the integration degree of factor expression and diversified media is still low. Finally the matching degree between content design and development and high quality creation requirements is too low. To promote the in-depth application of digital dissemination in Zhejiang silk industry the article put forward the fourin-one digital dissemination development mode of "government guidance industry guidance market guidance and enterprise guidance" from the perspective of the Belt and Road. Firstly it is necessary for the government to strengthen the dissemination consciousness optimize the policy environment and enhance talent support and boost the confidence and ability of the silk industry to focus on digital dissemination. Secondly it is necessary to play the guiding role of Zhejiang silk industry in coordination dissemination and cooperation and enhance the conscious motivation of silk enterprises to apply digital dissemination. Thirdly it is necessary to highlight the market demand orientation and integrate digital technology digital personnel and digital content into the online information platform and offline information scene. Finally it is necessary to strengthen the cultural guiding function and construct physical and virtual cultural scenes to form the emotional resonance and cultural identity of the audience. Starting from the two dimensions of the Belt and Road perspective and digital dissemination context this paper investigates and analyzes the shortcomings of Zhejiang silk industry's application of digital dissemination and puts forward structural development countermeasures so as to shape the industrial image matching the silk industry and the core meaning of the Belt and Road Initiative and boost the organic integration of Zhejiang silk industry into the domestic and international double cycle. The 10-year history of the initiative is enough to prove that openness inclusiveness connectivity and common development are still the inner call of all countries in the world and promoting exchanges and mutual understanding is the driving force and foundation. The symbiotic form that "you have me I have you" calls for the reshaping of the relationship of information dissemination which is also the meaning of why digital dissemination is on the stage of history. The results of the research help the silk industry to examine the development opportunities and the mission of the times of the industry from the perspective of the Belt and Road face the reality that digital technology not only changes the way people socialize but provides new opportunities for industrial development and establish the belief of industrial internationalization and digitalization so as to enhance the competitiveness and vitality of the silk industry facing the world stage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Silk fibroin shows biocompatibility, biodegradability, and a lack of immunogenicity and allergenicity, possessing great potential in biomedical applications. In various forms of silk fibroin biomaterials, silk fibroin films are attracting increasing attention due to their easy processing. Among the physic-chemical properties of silk fibroin films, mechanical properties have great impact on their subsequent applications in vitro and in vivo. First, this paper briefly discussed the relationship between the hierarchical structures and mechanical properties of silk fibroin. Then, it summarized the influence of preparation parameters on mechanical properties, and the influence of different treatments on microstructure of silk films and the resulting changes in mechanical properties. Moreover, it discussed the relationship between structural changes and mechanical properties of silk fibroin films. Finally, it looked to the future to provide reference for the development of silk fibroin films to meet a variety of needs.The mechanical properties of silk fibroin materials are structure dependent. Silk fibroin materials have five levels of hierarchical structures, in which the content of β-sheet in the secondary structure, the size and content of β-crystallites in the tertiary structure, and the density and orientation of β-crystallites in the quaternary structure are all critical parameters to the mechanical properties. The multi-level structure of silk fibroin can progressively influence the macroscopic mechanical properties step by step. In the aggregated state, it is generally accepted that the strength and stiffness of the silk fibroin material are determined by Silk II while ductility and flexibility are controlled by Silk I.The rational design and reconstruction of silk fibroin structure can be implemented by controlling the preparation process. Pure silk fibroin films can be prepared in three steps: solution fabrication, film formation and post-treatment. Solution fabrication consists of degumming and silk fibroin dissolution, which will reduce the molecular weight of silk fibroin and therefore weaken the mechanical properties. As for film formation, solution casting or spin coating is often used to produce dense, porous, and lamellar films. The mechanical property of silk fibroin films fabricated via solution casting is controlled by controlling the drying rate, while films fabricated via spin-on method are limited by thickness. The pore size, pore density and pore distribution are important to mechanical properties for porous films, while the mechanical properties of lamellar films are related to the interlayer bond compactness. Post-treatments, such as organic solution immersion, water vapor annealing, external forces, and relative humidity in storage, can improve mechanical properties by changing crystallinity and orientation.Additive modification is an effective way to improve the mechanical properties of silk fibroin films. Blending, plasticizing, and crosslinking are common additive modification methods. Mechanical properties are changed by forming specific intermolecular interactions between silk fibroin and additives. The interactions between blends and silk fibroin can be roughly divided into phase separation, strong interaction, and network formation. Among them, network formation needs an appropriate mixing ratio to form an excellent balance interaction. Crosslinkers form covalent links between molecules and increase the molecular weight. In this way, physical crosslinking and chemical crosslinking need to be balanced. Plasticizing can improve the flexibility and ductility of silk fibroin films. The commonly used plasticizers are glycerin, water, and Ca2+, and the combination of other additives gives silk fibroin films excellent comprehensive mechanical properties. All in all, the hierarchical structures and the mechanic-structure dependence of silk fibroin materials make silk fibroin films adaptive to meet the applications requiring different mechanical properties. In the future, it is necessary to continue to expand the preparation methods of silk fibroin, and have an in-depth knowledge of the relationship between the structure and properties of silk fibroin, so as to accurately regulate the mechanical properties of silk fibroin films and further study the relationship between mechanical properties and other relevant properties. Mechanical property modification, functionalization and biocompatibility need to be considered together in the application studies of silk fibroin materials, so as to further expand the application range of silk fibroin materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In recent years, ultra-fine fiber nonwovens are widely used in various fields due to their excellent performances, and play a vital role in in our daily life. Currently, there are various methods to produce ultra-fine fibers, such as electrospinning, centrifugal spinning, flash spinning and melt spinning. Among them, melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers have broadly drawn attention due to the selective diversity of combinations of raw materials and processing techniques. In addition, melt-spun bicomponent fibers are dominant in the market because of their ability to be produced on a large scale. However, industrial producing of melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers usually suffers from problems such as high energy consumption, large diameter and environmental issue, which limit their high-quality development and applications in future. During the practical processing, selection of different polymers, use age of spinning packs of different sizes, and adjustment of different spinning parameters have significant impacts on the formation of melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers. Therefore, it is of great significance to regulate the influencing factors in the forming process of bicomponent ultra-fine fibers to further improve their comprehensive performances. In order to understand the nature of melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers more comprehensively, this paper took segmented-pie fibers and sea-island fibers as the research matrix, explored the spinning and forming mechanism of melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers and its influencing factors; elaborated the diverse open fiber processes of melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers, and summarized the applications of melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers in different fields. As for spinning process, by using conjugated melt spinning with different types of melt distribution systems, segmented-pie fibers and figured sea-island fibers could be prepared respectively. In the meanwhile, the forming mechanism of unfigured sea-island fibers was clearly revealed. In the spinning process, blended polymer droplets were stretched into long or elliptical shapes in the spinning pack, which is the main reason for the uneven diameters of unfigured sea-island fibers compared to figured sea-island fibers. There are notable differences in the properties of figured and unfigured sea-island fibers. Moreover, the finer fiber diameters can be obtained by increasing the drawing multiplier and improving the properties of the polymer feedstock. As for fiber splitting process, there are three types of fiber splitting methods, namely mechanical, chemical and thermal means. It was found that energy consumption of fiber splitting can be effectively reduced by decreasing the interfacial bonding between polymers. Significantly, the use of water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) points a way for developing green bicomponent ultra-fine fibers. Due to the low dimension, high specific surface area, and facile functional finishing, melt-spun bicomponent fibers have a wide range of applications such as ultra-fine fiber artificial leather, air filer, medical and health materials. Melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers show excellent comprehensive performance and have wide application prospects. However, there are still several tasks for preparing melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers, such as reducing energy consumption and pollution during melt spinning and fiber splitting, and preparing melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers with finer diameters and excellent properties. In the selection of raw materials, polymer raw materials with different excellent properties should be further developed, so as to broaden the diversified combinations of raw materials for melt-spun bicomponent fibers; in the process of preparation, the research and development of precision components and the optimization of molding process should be carried out, so as to improve the performance of melt-spun bicomponent fibers and realize the further refinement the fiber diameters; about the fiber splitting, along with the concept of green environmental protection, low energy consumption, no chemical reagents and efficient green fiber splitting process should be developed. Water-soluble fiber opening, as a green fiber opening method, provides a good development direction for bicomponent ultra-fine fibers. Water-soluble polymers provide a good direction for the development of melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers. And with the continuous development of the nonwoven industry, it is believed melt-spun bicomponent ultra-fine fibers will develop toward the direction of green, multi-function and high performance in the future, so as to better benefit mankind and society. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Silk, as a natural protein fiber, is a crucial raw material for high-grade textile products due to its exceptional breathability, moisture permeability, and biocompatibility. Moreover, silk possesses delicate luster and a soft feel that are adored by people worldwide, earning it the title of “queen of fibers”. However, the yield of silk is heavily influenced by cocoon quality, and only approximately 20% of cocoons can be transformed into pure silk fibers. Traditional silk processing generates an alarming waste amounting to 55% due to this limitation. To enhance silk utilization efficiency and fully exploit its value, numerous researchers have employed nonwoven processing technology in silk production. The resulting nonwovens not only significantly improve the utilization rate but also offer advantages such as high production efficiency and low cost while harnessing the excellent performance characteristics of silk. The common nonwoven process mainly consists of two processes: mesh formation and reinforcement. The main methods of mesh formation include dry-laid nonwoven, wet-laid nonwoven, and electrostatic spinning method. Reinforcement methods include needling, hydroentanglement, chemical bonding, and thermal bonding. Silk nonwovens can be obtained through these processes. This paper provides a systematic summary of the production process and product characteristics of silk nonwovens. Silk nonwovens manufactured by needle reinforcement in dry-laid processing involve inserting hooked spines into the fiber mesh repeatedly to form physical entanglement. It offers advantages such as permeability, good mechanical properties and high production efficiency, making it suitable for thermal materials, filter materials and bedding products. Dry-laid hydroentangled nonwovens are achieved by using high-pressure water flow and reflection flow to intertwine the fiber mesh. It possesses characteristics like good air permeability and soft feel without damaging the fibers. This method is suitable for medical protective materials and health materials. The dry-laid silk nonwovens reinforced by chemical method, thermal bonding method and wet-laid silk nonwovens are seldom used at present. Electrospinning is a method in which polymer melt/solution is stretched into fiber mesh under the action of high voltage electrostatic field. The resulting regenerated silk fibroin fiber has the advantages of small diameter, large specific surface area and good filtration performance, and can be used in various high-end medical materials and tissue engineering materials, but there are difficulties in industrialization. When the material cannot meet the performance requirements, the method of post-finishing is often used to improve the performance or aesthetics of nonwovens to meet the requirements of different uses of products. In practical applications, different fields have different performance requirements for nonwovens. Nonwovens used in sanitary products require antibacterial properties and hydrophilic properties. Nonwovens for medical protection require water, blood, alcohol, and static resistance. Hydrophilic finishing, antibacterial finishing, flame retardant finishing, UV resistant finishing and other finishing methods are commonly used to improve the performance of silk nonwovens. Because of the biocompatibility, biodegradability, richness in amino acids, hand feel, and mild luster of silk fiber, silk nonwoven materials can be widely used in beauty, medical health, tissue engineering, insulation and other fields. The utilization of nonwoven technology in silk fiber production offers a novel approach to fully harnessing the potential of silk fibers, expanding their application scope, and driving their adoption across diverse fields. Blending silk with other materials addresses issues such as low wear resistance and susceptibility to creasing, while also enhancing various properties of silk. Simultaneously, multifunctional and high-performance modifications enable tailored enhancements for specific applications, thereby facilitating the broader implementation of silk nonwovens. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Gambiered Guangdong silk (known as Xiangyun silk) is a combination of Liang Sha and Liang Chou (black gum silk). The face side of the fabric has a dark black luster and the back is brown, with smooth texture, cool wearing, easy washing and fast drying, and other characteristics. Gambiered Guangdong silk is completely made by hand using the pigment extract of the root of Dioscorea cirrhosa, natural river mud in Guangdong regions, and natural sunlight. It is produced without any industrial raw materials or preparations. In recent years, research has shown that it has inherent antibacterial and antioxidant properties, excellent UV blocking ability, natural flame retardancy, waterproof and breathable properties, making it a fantastic textile for wearing. Despite the defects of excessive heavy metals such as chromium and lead, as well as monotonous colors, gambiered Guangdong silk is still loved by consumers for its unique style and comfortable wearing. This paper aims to compare the changes in structure and properties of gambiered Guangdong silk with common silk fabrics under repeated home washing conditions, investigate the unique properties of gambiered Guangdong silk fabrics, and provide guidance for the commercial development and home washing cares for gambiered Guangdong silk products. The same specification of plain-woven fabrics were used to prepare gambiered Guangdong silk and traditional silk fabrics, then they were washed both according to the standard washing procedure, with addition of standard test fabrics AATCC Dummy Type I according to the standard requirements. After washing, the surface morphology of the sample was observed by using a scanning electron microscope. General standard testing methods, such as GB 3820—1997 “Determination of thickness of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics” and GB/T 3923.1—2013 “Tensile properties of textiles—Part 1: Determination of breaking strength and elongation at break—Strip method”, GB/T 23329—2009 “Determination of drape of textile fabrics” and GB/T 18830—2002 “Evaluation of UV resistance of textiles” were used to examine the performance of washed silk fabrics in comparison to the common silk fabrics. The results show that the black glue layer on the surface of gambiered Guangdong silk has a protective effect on the fabric damage during home laundering. The tensile strength damage rate of the fabric during home laundering is only about half of that of traditional silk, so gambiered Guangdong silk has excellent home laundering resistance. With the laundering proceeding, the black glue layer of gambiered Guangdong silk surface will gradually loosen and peel off, and the fiber on the back of the fabric will gradually pile up, which will of course improve the touch between the fabric and the skin. Home laundering can significantly improve the drapability of gambiered Guangdong silk, reduce the CLO value and improve the UV protection performance, while have no significant change in the hydrophobic property. The experimental data show that home laundering can improve the handle and wearability of the fabric, and indeed the fabrics becone softer and cooler after laundering. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the development of society and the progress of science and technology, people’s awareness of environmental protection and health, safety and comfortable life has gradually increased, and the demand for textiles has already broken through the limitations of the original shading, warmth, beautification and other aspects, and more inclined to the functionalization and intelligence of textiles. Advanced regions and some developed countries have also turned their attention to smart textiles with lower resource consumption, high economic efficiency and more in line with scientific and technological development. Smart textiles refer to textiles with the ability to perceive and respond to external stimuli, providing more functionality for traditional textiles, including intelligent monitoring products, intelligent heating and temperature control products, intelligent color-changing products, etc. Among them, color-changing textiles are favored by consumers through modern technology, which makes the color of textiles change dynamically with the change of environmental conditions. At present, foreign scholars have developed intelligent color-changing knitted clothing used in the field of military defense; domestic scholars have also applied it to medical detection, strong radiation environmental safety protection and other fields. The body temperature is the key information to reflect human life activities. To visualize the change of body temperature, an intelligent temperature monitoring color changing-fabric was designed and developed. Generally, an ordinary knitted fabric is selected as the base fabric and coated. In this paper, three kinds of knitted fabrics with different structures of mica-modified cool polyester filaments were selected as the base fabric and the coating was finished with temperature sensitivity and color change. Two kinds of reversible temperature-sensitive color-changing powder with different color-changing temperatures and effects were used to make color-changing coatings with water-based polyurethane and thickener, etc. The color-changing coating was coated on the fabric surface to obtain color-changing fabrics with different temperature ranges. The influence of the concentration of waterborne polyurethane, drying temperature and drying time on the color fastness, permeability and other properties of the color-changing fabric was analyzed, and the influence of different structures on the color-changing properties such as the color-changing effect and response speed was investigated. The results show that the higher the surface density, the slower the response speed and the lower the air permeability of the fabric. When the concentration of waterborne polyurethane reaches 60%, the drying temperature is 90 ℃, and the drying time is 7 min, the color fastness of the fabric is the best. Cool weft plain knitted fabrics have the best combined effect of discoloration performance and wear performance, and they are suitable to be used as the base of discoloration fabrics. Subsequent discoloration treatment can be further carried out, which can meet the personalized needs of consumers for clothing, and provide certain reference for the application of cool discoloration fabrics. A kind of thermochromic knitted fabric, which can be applied to intelligent temperature monitoring, is developed by processing and finishing the cool knitted fabric made of cool polyester filaments, which increases the function of the fabric and can monitor human temperature in real time in high temperature season. This provides reference for the innovation of traditional textile products, and a certain basis for the development and research of thermochromic products in the future, and has certain application prospects in the field of wearable display. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The ironwood loom, also known as the iron machine, iron wheel machine, iron wheel loom, foot-treadle iron wheel machine, large machine, etc., is composed of iron and wood. It is a transitional apparatus in the evolution of Chinese manual weaving machines to power-driven weaving machines. It is a special product developed under the background of industrial revitalization in the late Qing Dynasty in China. The ironwood loom is a significant part in the modern history of textile development in China both from the angle of time span and technical transformation. Through the study of the ironwood loom, on the one hand, we can intuitively visually trace the transition process from traditional manual weaving to power-driven weaving in modern China, master its working principle, and sort out the technical evolution route from the shuttle loom, foot-treadle shuttle, ironwood loom, ironwood jacquard loom to Toyota’s second generation power loom. On the other hand, by researching its origin, we can explore the policy suggestions put forward by the government, enterprises and individuals, and have a full picture of the development of China’s rural handicraft industry. This approach allows for a reconstruction of the entire process of establishing textile centers like Gaoyang and Weixian, as well as the implementation of the machine distribution system.Through literature researching and field surveying, this paper drew three major conclusions. First, from the aspect of the working principle of the ironwood loom, the advantage of the ironwood loom lies in its intricate mechanical structure that interconnects the five processes of shedding, picking, beating-up, rolling-up, and warp releasing. This integration enhanced both work efficiency and fabric quality. Simultaneously, it addressed the monopoly situation in the market by foreign yarns and fabrics at that time. It marked a solid step forward in the automation development of Chinese textile machinery. Second, in terms of the origin, the ironwood loom was invented in Japan in 1887 and brought back to Tianjin, China by a Chinese investigation group from Japan in 1903 rather than after 1918 or 1920, correcting the previous misperception. Third, as for the popularization of the ironwood loom, with the joint efforts of the government, advanced entrepreneurs and various sectors, a distinctive machine distribution policy was established for the ironwood loom, which made it develop rapidly in Gaoyang county and Wei county within a few decades, bringing about a transformation in the local economic structure. This shift transformed some areas originally dominated by agriculture into a production mode dominated by handicraft and supplemented by agriculture, laying a solid foundation for the scattered distribution of the center of gravity of China’s textile industry later. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As an important part of excellent traditional Chinese culture, Han embroidery is not only a scarce cultural resource but also a valuable spiritual wealth. How to combine the protection, inheritance, development, and utilization of Han embroidery, promote the creative transformation and innovative development of Han embroidery, and highlight the new era connotation of Han embroidery is an important task at present.Based on SWOT theory and 458 questionnaires, this paper investigated and analyzed the strengths (S), weaknesses (W), opportunities (O) and threats (T) of the development of Han embroidery, and revealed the main paths of the innovative development of Han embroidery. First, governments at all levels continue to drive universities to conduct research and development of Han embroidery and realize the integration of industry, university and research. The inheritors of Han embroidery tend to be mainly middle-aged and elderly people, and most of them fail to master the latest design software and design methods. Organizing the “three helps and one” support activities of “tutor + organ cadre + enterprise”, and holding all kinds of creative design competitions regarding Han embroidery can promote the integrated development of Han embroidery production, teaching, research, and tourism. Second, it is necessary to continue to strengthen the support, training, and publicity of Han embroidery personnel. Since 2010, governments at all levels in Hubei province and Wuhan city have actively carried out various training activities for Han embroidery, but in the questionnaire survey, people that “have no idea” of many inheritors above the municipal level account for 63.26%. It can be seen that the propaganda of Han embroidery inheritors still needs to be strengthened. Third, it is necessary to gather strength to build a well-known brand of Han embroidery with regional characteristics. Among the top ten brands regarding embroidery jointly promoted by the CN10 ranking technology research department and the CNPP brand data research department in 2022, none of the Han embroidery brands were on the list, which needs to be strengthened. Fourth, it is necessary to continue to achieve innovative development in the integration of culture and tourism with various types of “Han embroidery +”, and continue to integrate Han embroidery into the tourism space, enrich tourism products with Han embroidery, set up Han embroidery experience bases, cultivate Han embroidery characteristic lines, and carry out two-way training between Han embroidery and tourism industry groups. Fifth, it is necessary to lead the integration of Han embroidery with new media and high-tech, and strengthen the innovation of Han embroidery. It is found from the survey that the number of inheritors of Suzhou embroidery in short video applications is more than 25 times that of Han embroidery, indicating that Han embroidery has a large room for improvement in new media releases and short video integration.In the future, it is necessary to strengthen the training and reserve a number of high-quality and professional Han embroidery cultural tourism talents. To achieve the innovative development of Han embroidery, it is necessary to train Han embroidery inheritance, design and management talents. To achieve the innovative inheritance and creative transformation of Han embroidery, people should not overly cater to commercial value and consumer preferences while ignoring or abandoning the folk spiritual and cultural characteristics of Han embroidery itself. Han embroidery and its innovative products will not only show the traditional skills, but also carry forward the spirit of craftsmen who stick to the original intention, and give full play to the significance of Han embroidery in the inheritance of Chu and Han culture, the protection of world cultural diversity, human creativity and the sustainable development of the cultural industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Silk, as a natural protein fiber, has a soft touch and bright color. The main body of silk fibers is fibroin, with a proportion of from 70% to 80%, and the outer layer is wrapped with sericin with a proportion of from 20% to 30%, which plays a protective role for the fibroin. Nevertheless, an excessive presence of sericin will affect the luster and softness of the silk, which is detrimental to the processing and production of silk products. Therefore, it is essential to perform degumming treatment on the silkworm cocoons. Traditional methods for degumming silk primarily include alkaline degumming, soap degumming, and acid degumming. However, these degumming methods commonly result in issues such as a rough texture, poor mechanical properties, susceptibility to yellowing, and the presence of residual chemical substances with irritating odors in the silk after degumming. In recent years, a new type of silkworm cocoon degumming method—enzyme degumming, has been widely applied in the field of silk degumming due to its advantages such as environmental friendliness, non-toxicity, mild reaction conditions, high catalytic efficiency, easy degradation, and strong specificity. The use of enzyme preparations for the degumming of silkworm cocoons primarily relies on the biological characteristics of enzymes. Silk proteins undergo hydrolysis by proteolytic enzymes, causing the cleavage of peptide bonds and the formation of bioactive peptides. Therefore, biological enzyme preparations (proteases) have been increasingly used to replace other chemical refining agents in the refining and processing of silk. This represents a promising and prospective research area. In this paper, alkaline protease (NP-TEE) and textile refining enzyme (AP-TRE) were used to degum silkworm cocoons. The degumming rate, single-fiber tensile breaking strength, and whiteness were used as the indexes to examine silk properties. An orthogonal test was conducted to determine the optimal process for the enzymatic degumming of cocoons. The experimental results show that the two enzyme degumming processes have an effect on the degumming effect of cocoons, and the performance of silk after degumming with textile refining enzyme is better compared with that of alkaline protease degumming. The optimal degumming process conditions of cocoons by textile refining enzyme are as follows: a degumming temperature of 55 ℃, a degumming time of 60 min, and an enzyme concentration of 5 mL/L. The degumming rate of cocoons is 17. 07%, with an average breaking strength of single silk fiber of 12. 20 cN/dtex, and whiteness of cocoons of 66. 04% which is higher than the original cocoons of 58. 78%. The infrared spectra show that there is no significant difference in the structure between cocoons treated with the textile refining enzyme method and the original silkworm cocoons. Under scanning electron microscopy, it is observed that the surface of silk fibers treated with textile refining enzyme appears smoother and more even compared to the original silk fibers. TGA analysis shows that there is no significant change in the thermal stability of silk fibers after degumming with textile refining enzymes. This approach provides a new choice for cocoon degumming process, and it will contribute to subsequent industrial production. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The clothing patterns unearthed in the ancient tomb complex of Astana in Turfan, Xinjiang, especially the "peal-linked pattern" originating from the Sassanid Persian Dynasty, are colorful. Animal images such as lions and elephants are relatively easy to be recognized, but it is very difficult to name bird images. The "brocaded face cover of peal-linked double phoenix pattern" (72TAM169: 34) unearthed from Tomb 169 in Astana has the peal-linked pattern as its skeleton and pairs of birds as its main motifs, so it is characterized by peacocks, vermilion birds, and phoenixes. There is room for further discussion and debate in the academic community about the naming of this "face cover". On the basis of discussing the naming rules of clothing patterns, this paper renamed the "face cover". With the help of historical, cultural and graphical research methods, the social and cultural background of this "brocaded face cover of peal-linked double phoenix pattern" unearthed from Tomb 169 in Astana was restored. From the aspects of user identity, ideological belief, artistic and cultural identity, and through vertical and horizontal image comparison analysis, the following two important conclusions were drawn. Firstly, in the Northern Dynasties, the forms and meanings of the peacock, the vermilion bird and the phoenixes were gradually confused and fused. When the divine bird appeared with the elements of immortal mountains, immortals, and divine stones, and had obvious Taoist or Confucian auspicious connotations, it might be the phoenix, or the vermilion bird or peacock, and in order to avoid fallacies, it should be collectively referred to as the "phoenix", and be distinguished according to its stylistic features. Secondly, the "brocaded face cover of peal-linked peacock-shaped double phoenix pattern" (72TAM169: 34) unearthed from Tomb 169 in Astana is a vivid example of the artistic and cultural exchange and integration between the East and the West along the Silk Road, and the fabric is likely to come from the Central Plains. In terms of the pattern theme, the craftsmen chose phoenixes, which were popular with Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism. In the specific visualization of the image, with the classic peal-linked pattern in Persian-Sasanian art as the framework, the two phoenixes stood tall in the Chinese symmetrical composition, and the Western peacock tail feathers turned up high, supplemented by the Western style flowers, incense burner, lotus, and circle type coins, with a unique style and rich symbolism. Because of its colorful symbolic elements, the bird's shape, which is both Chinese and Western, makes it difficult for later generations to determine its name. After a comprehensive analysis, the "brocaded face cover of the pearl-linked peacock-shaped double phoenix pattern" is more appropriate and reasonable to be summarized. Based on the academic research on the naming of traditional Chinese clothing patterns, a new naming method is proposed: the naming of the image not only requires consideration of its shape but also should not ignore the cultural relationship between the constituent elements of the image, and the naming method combining form and meaning can better embody the historical and cultural connotation reflected by ancient Chinese dress patterns. With regard to the naming of the many face covers excavated from Tomb 169 in Astana, the article puts forward the new viewpoint of the "brocaded face cover of the pearl-linked peacock-shaped double phoenix pattern" through in-depth research and discussion. This naming study will provide references for the naming study of bird patterns in the academic world and provide new ideas and new methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the introduction of the metaverse concept, the possible production capacity of the metaverse has made many enterprises actively invest in this field（such as Meta, Microsoft and Tencent）. The spatial expansion of the metaverse can create a digital space that transcends reality, and may create richer and more imaginative scenes than reality. The reconstruction capability of metaverse scenes can enable users to build digital virtual scenes based on real scenes and further reshape the value of the traditional physical world scene. The reconstruction of the metaverse may become an important engine to promote the integration of the digital world and the real world. And it will also bring infinite possibilities for the development of the clothing industry. However, the current metaverse is still in the early stage of development, and the enterprises’ understanding of the metaverse scene marketing is also still at the basic level. It is not clear from which direction to build the metaverse scene, and it may occur that the digital image launched by enterprises is different from consumers’ expectations, which may result in a low business conversion rate. Therefore, clarifying the dimension of the characteristics of metaverse scenes is helpful to build metaverse scenes and formulate marketing strategies for clothing enterprises, meet the needs of consumers in the metaverse era, and improve consumers’ purchase intention.This study analyzed and summarized the ways of the participation of some garment enterprises in the metaverse and looked back the previous researchers’ dimensional research on the scene characteristics. Then, this study extracted the four dimensions of the clothing scene characteristics, including scene dependence, information accuracy, social interaction and scene entertainment. This paper took perceived value and sense of presence as intermediary variables, and established a model of the influence of clothing scene characteristics on consumers’ purchase intention in the context of metaverse. Scene dependence, information accuracy, social interaction and scene entertainment were considered as independent variables, perceived value and sense of presence as intermediary variables, and purchase intention as the dependent variable to explore the relationship between them. The innovation point of this study is that it systematically and clearly divides the dimensions of clothing scene characteristic under the background of metaverse, which provides specific starting points for the scene marketing of clothing enterprises in the field of metaverse. Furthermore, it empirically tests the influence of scene characteristics on consumers’ purchase intention and enriches the research on the scene characteristics of the metaverse. SPSS and AMOS structure equation model are adopted for analyzing, and the result demonstrates that scene dependence, information precision, social interaction and scene entertainment all have positive influence on consumers’ purchase intention. Besides, consumers’ perceived value and sense of presence play an intermediary role between clothing scene characteristics and consumers’ purchase intention, and the intermediary effect of perceived value is stronger than sense of presence.In future research, we can consider deeply exploring the dimension of clothing scene characteristic by expanding the scope of literature or interview, so as to make the scene characteristic dimension more comprehensive and perfect. In addition, we can think about whether there are other variables（such as perceived risk, and perceived ease of use） that will affect consumers through the characteristics of the clothing scene. In the future, in-depth research can be continued to enrich the model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The differentiation of textile fibers can endow fiber materials with various characteristics. As a typical fiber differentiation method, the draw texturing process is a method that employs physical processing. Through the mechanical and thermal actions of the draw texturing machine, it processes thermoplastic chemical fibers such as polyester and nylon, giving them improved appearance, physical performance, and dyeing properties. Polyester is a kind of chemical fiber, having the largest production capacity. Meanwhile, polyester has good mechanical properties, thermal stability, and water washing resistance, so it is widely used in clothing textiles, home textiles, and industrial textiles. This paper investigated the influence of the draw texturing process on the physical and dyeing performance of polyester DTY, providing reference for the stable production and quality control of polyester DTY.To study the influence of the draw texturing process on the physical and dyeing performance of polyester DTY, this study adopted an orthogonal experimental method to investigate the comprehensive influence of processing speed, first hot-box temperature, draft ratio, false-twist ratio, second overfeeding rate, and second hot-box temperature on the tensile strength and crystallinity of polyester DTY. First, a six-factor three-level orthogonal test table was designed, and a reasonable range of parameters was selected. Test plans were developed by choosing a processing speed of 500 m/min, 600 m/min, and 700 m/min, respectively, a temperature of 185 ℃, 205 ℃, and 225 ℃, respectively for the first hot-box, a draft ratio of 1.5, 1.6, and 1.7, respectively, a false-twist ratio of 1.3, 1.5, 1.7, respectively, a second overfeeding rate of 2%, 3%, and 4%, respectively, and a second hot-box temperature of 150 ℃, 170 ℃, and 190 ℃, respectively. Tests and analysis were done on the linear density, breaking strength, strength elongation, and crimp shrinkage rate and crystallinity of polyester DTY, which were produced in each plan.The results show that in this study, the draft ratio has the most significant impact on the linear density and strength elongation of polyester DTY, and both show noticeable negative correlations; the first hot-box temperature has the most significant impact on the breaking strength of polyester DTY, showing a first positive and then negative tendency; the second overfeeding rate has the most significant impact on the crimp shrinkage rate of polyester DTY, showing a negative correlation; the processing speed and the second hot-box temperature have the main impact on the crystallinity of polyester DTY, and the two show remarkable negative and positive correlations, respectively. Furthermore, polyester DTY with higher crystallinity and faster crystallization rate has poorer dyeing index stability. Because of this, to ensure the stable production, the crystallinity should be controlled at around 40%. Moreover, in order to improve the dyeing uniformity of polyester DTY, it is necessary to appropriately reduce the processing speed, the first and second hot-box temperatures.Through comprehensive research and analysis, the impact of various process parameters on polyester DTY can be effectively obtained, providing reference for production practice. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the innovation and development of technology, the digital economy occupies an increasingly important position in the information era and becomes an important component of modern economic development. The digital transformation of enterprises is an inevitable trend for the development of the national economy and the transformation of businesses. Achieving the digital transformation of traditional enterprises holds significant importance for the operation and growth of the national economy. The textile industry, as a pillar industry within the traditional sector, finds its new opportunities for growth and future development in digital transformation. Therefore, it is important to have a proper understanding of the impact of digital transformation on the upgrading of the textile industry, and to reveal the underlying mechanisms of this impact, which is of great theoretical value and practical significance for achieving high-quality development in the textile industry.To explore the impact of digital transformation on the upgrading of the textile industry, this study took a micro perspective and analyzed the specific mechanisms through which digital transformation affects the upgrading of the textile industry, namely improving operational effectiveness, market effectiveness, cost effectiveness, and innovation effectiveness. Subsequently, empirical tests were conducted by using data from listed textile industry companies in the A-share market from 2012 to 2020. For the core explanatory variables, this paper constructed an index for digital transformation using text analysis. As for the dependent variables, industrial upgrading was divided into process upgrading and functional upgrading, with enterprise productivity and labor productivity as measures for the former, and operating profit margin as a measure for the latter. To avoid errors caused by the omitting important variables, this study also selected control variables such as enterprise size, human capital, innovation input, enterprise debt ratio, equity concentration, board size, and current asset turnover rate. The mediating effect model was used to test the impact mechanisms. And the regression results show that digital transformation has a positive and significant impact on the upgrading of the textile industry, promoting both process upgrading and functional upgrading. These results hold under a series of robustness tests. Digital transformation primarily promotes the upgrading of the textile industry through operational effectiveness, cost effectiveness, and market effectiveness, while innovation effectiveness is found to be insufficient in constituting an effective mediator.Based on the research findings, this study put forward corresponding policy recommendations. Firstly, it suggested establishing an internet platform for the textile industry to facilitate the co-construction and sharing of information among different supply chain segments. Secondly, promoting the development of local digital industry parks and industrial clusters in the textile industry was recommended to foster collaborative development and digital transformation among large-sized, medium-sized, and small-sized textile enterprises. Thirdly, advancing the integration of industry, academia, and research in the textile industry was proposed to enhance the efficiency and level of technology innovation transfer.Different from traditional research focusing on factors such as industry value chains and management capabilities to study the upgrading of the textile industry, this study incorporates digital transformation into the analytical framework and systematically explores the impact mechanisms of enterprise digital transformation on industrial upgrading, providing a new perspective for understanding the upgrading of the textile industry. However, there are still some limitations in this study. For example, the analysis is constrained by the limited number of listed textile industry companies, preventing further heterogeneity analysis. Additionally, the mechanism analysis of digital transformation is based on the summary of existing research and lacks more intuitive descriptions through mathematical models. Looking ahead, possible future research directions include more specific heterogeneity analysis, such as exploring whether there are differences in digital transformation among related enterprises in the textile industry, such as textile clothing, apparel industry, chemical fiber manufacturing industry, and whether the progress of digital transformation is consistent among large, medium, and small enterprises. Another direction is to investigate the role of the government in digital transformation of the textile industry, the formulation of relevant policies, and the evaluation of the effectiveness of these policies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The traditional culture of China has been widely concerned and highly valued by people, so more and more designers have begun to actively explore and apply excellent local traditional cultural resources. However, in the face of a large number of cultural relics that need to be repaired, reuse becomes a problem. When cultural relics cannot be repaired, their pattern characteristics cannot be reused. The ancient warp twisted fabrics in China are unique and distinctive in style. In the long history of development, the warp twisted fabrics have developed diverse organizational structures and experienced several major changes and transformations. Taking Luo as the representative, the development of its organizational structure is closely related to the social development and technological evolution under the historical environment at that time. Because it is difficult to weave, it is damaged and difficult to extract due to many factors, and the diversified warp twisted weaving techniques in ancient times have only been inherited in a small part in modern times. Therefore, whether for the technical and social humanistic connotation carried by the ancient warp twisted fabric itself, or the inheritance and development of its skills in modern times, there is still a lot of room for research. To solve the problem that ancient Luo fabrics are damaged and difficult to extract and repair due to many factors, an image restoration method combining open operation and Criminisi algorithm is proposed.The theoretical research and practical application of the four-warp twisted Luo are hindered by the complicated weaving method, long construction period, and few cultural relics and few reference objects. At present, in the aspect of preserving and studying the four-warp twisted Luo, the pattern is still woven by hand, which is not conducive to the development and spread of the four-warp twisted Luo. Compared with the traditional manual restoration, the digital pattern restoration technology has been widely concerned in the field of cultural relics pattern restoration, and it has the advantages of higher efficiency, lower cost, high flexibility and easy adjustment of repair results, becoming the focus and frontier of current research. It provides diversified means and ideas for the restoration and extraction of four-warp twisted Luo. According to the historical origin and classification of warp-twisted fabrics, the most representative four-warp twisted Luo was obtained, the weaving technology and inheritance characteristics of the four-warp twisted Luo in the historical development process were discussed, the unique weaving techniques of the four-warp twisted Luo were summarized, and the types and characteristics of the four-warp twisted Luo patterns were summarized. The traditional patterns of four-warp twisted Luo with regular features were collected, and the most representative diamond patterns were analyzed by atlas analysis. By using the original algorithm and Criminisi algorithm improved by open operation, a series of operations were carried out on the images, which made the priority selection of the areas to be repaired more accurate, mainly including image clipping, obtaining the mask, calculating the priority, and finally filling the patterns to complete the digital restoration of the four-warp twisted Luo regular patterns respectively. Two groups of repair models were obtained and compared.The experimental results show that the improved Criminisi algorithm makes up for the shortcomings of the original algorithm, and the restored image is clearer and smoother than the original algorithm, which verifies the feasibility and credibility of this algorithm to repair the four-warp twisted Luo pattern, and provides a more advanced method for the inheritance and repair of Luo fabrics. This study aims to realize the inheritance of the representative pattern characteristics of four-warp twisted Luo, and provide new ideas for the inheritance and development of Luo fabrics.Analyzing the present situation of the application of traditional cultural elements in modern society with existing design examples, this paper puts forward feasible innovative methods of four-warp twisted Luo patterns in modern design, and summarizes the basic principles of the application of four-warp twisted Luo design elements. And the previous research on its aesthetic characteristics and cultural connotation is integrated, in order to realize the inheritance of the representative pattern characteristics of the four-warp twisted Luo, and provide new ideas for the inheritance and innovation of traditional cultural elements. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cardiovascular diseases（CVDs） are a group of diseases with high prevalence, disability and mortality rates, and are the number one killer of human health, with coronary and peripheral occlusive vascular diseases posing a great threat. To reduce the threat of CVDs to human life, small-caliber artificial blood vessel transplantation is a relatively common treatment. The materials widely used for the preparation of artificial blood vessels include polyester, expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, polyurethane and silk, etc. The former three are widely used in large vessel replacement surgery, but their use in small vessels is prone to thrombus formation, which clogs the artificial blood vessels and ultimately leads to the death of the organism. Silk has good biocompatibility, mechanical properties, degradability and promotion of cell adhesion, which has become a research hotspot for the preparation of small-caliber artificial blood vessels in recent years.To comprehensively understand the application status and performance advantages of silk small-caliber artificial blood vessels and accelerate the research and transformation of small-caliber blood vessels, this paper analyzed the advantages and problems of using silk as raw material to prepare small-caliber blood vessels from the aspects of preparation method, biocompatibility, anti-thrombotic ability and promoting vascular endothelialization, and put forward the possible development direction in the future. The results of most of the studies show that small-caliber artificial blood vessels prepared with silk as raw material exhibit good repair and long-term patency in animals. Silk can be prepared by gel spinning, weaving, knitting, electrostatic spinning, 3D printing, decellularization, freeze drying, etc. These methods have both advantages and defects. For instance, freeze drying is easy to mold but the mechanical properties of the artificial blood vessels are weak, the method of gel spinning can produce a uniform and loose network structure but is poor in mechanical properties, the artificial blood vessels prepared by knitting have uniform texture and flat surface but are easy to unravel at the anastomosis. On the whole, the artificial blood vessels produced by electrostatic spinning have high porosity to meet the requirements of cell growth, and this method is widely used. Although these methods have defects, they provide researchers with much space for improvement. Silk-based small-caliber blood vessels show effects such as promotion of cell adhesion and proliferation when co-cultured with smooth muscle cells, endothelial cells, fibroblasts, etc. When co-cultured with vascular scaffolds, the cells are able to colonize and grow on the scaffolds smoothly, and these properties indicate that biomedical materials prepared with silk as the raw material have excellent cytocompatibility, but there is an over-proliferation phenomenon when the cells are cultured with smooth muscle, which suggests that over-proliferation of cells should be avoided when silk is used as the biomaterial. The formation of thrombus after vascular transplantation is very likely to lead to death, the excellent mechanical properties and biocompatibility of silk are important factors to avoid the formation of thrombus, but the excessive proliferation of smooth muscle caused by silk-based artificial blood vessels may also lead to thrombus. In the future, artificial blood vessels can be prepared by combining with anticoagulant factors to prevent the formation of thrombus. After silk-based vascular grafting, vascular endothelial cells are able to migrate and colonize into the lumen of the graft smoothly, and the surface of the lumen is able to produce fused endothelium; although this process is relatively slow, it is sufficient to prove that silk-based artificial blood vessels are able to promote the endothelialization process after grafting.Although the advantages of silk-based small-caliber blood vessels are significant, whether the reagent residues in the preparation process have side effects needs to be further verified, and a large number of experimental improvements are needed to accelerate the clinical application, and the amount and degree of endotheliosis are strictly controlled in silk-based vascular grafts. In addition, more in-depth research on their controllable degradation needs be carried out. In conclusion, silk-based small-caliber blood vessels have unique advantages and certain defects, which bring opportunities and challenges for their clinical application, and it is necessary to increase the research investment on silk-based small-caliber blood vessels in the future to promote the development of silk in the field of biomedical materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Blue calico is a traditional craft printing and dyeing product in China with a long history. It is a simple and primitive blue and white fabric that reflects people’s preferences and embodies their longing for a happy life and simple aesthetic taste. It is famous for its unique pattern design style and broken lines. However, the lack of an algorithm for the automatic generation of blue calico patterns has hindered the innovative research of patterns. For this reason, an end-to-end automatic generation method of the blue calico pattern was proposed to realize the automatic conversion from a simple stroke image to a single blue calico pattern.Our solution belongs to CycleGAN-based methods, which are popular to stylize images in artistic forms such as painting. CycleGAN is a generative adversarial network based on dual learning, overcoming the the limitations of requiring corresponding datasets of other methods, but it is slightly insufficient for geometric shape changes. Given the abstract style and small dataset of blue calico, the coder and decoder in the CycleGAN generation network are reconstructed, and the SE（squeeze and exception） attention module and residual module are connected in series with the original convolution module to improve the ability of feature extraction and network learning. SE attention mechanism gives different weights to different positions of images from the perspective of the channel domain, with the network focusing on key information. At the same time, reducing the number of residual block layers of the converter in the generative network to reduce over-fitting is implemented. Besides, to carry out this experiment, we have made the dataset of a single pattern of blue calico and the dataset of simple strokes.Due to the lack of previous research on this issue and the lack of appropriate measurement indicators for such experiments, the study used the generated image for visual comparison. In the experiment, to prove the superiority of the proposed algorithm, we compared our algorithm with the original CycleGAN and other algorithms based on the dual idea, like DualGAN and DiscoGAN. The experimental results show that our proposed algorithm can effectively combine the content of simple strokes with the style of blue calico, while the original CycleGAN algorithm has insufficient geometric deformation ability, and the other two algorithms save too much original information, which does not conform to the concise characteristics of blue calico. At the same time, the study also compared the effect of using different attention mechanisms, and compared the ECA（efficient channel attention） mechanism with CBAM（convolutional block attention module） mechanism. Among various attention mechanisms, the SE attention mechanism still has the best effect. The image generated by using ECA attention lacks the content of the original image; the image style conversion generated by using ECA attention is not enough. Besides, compared with the other two methods, the image generated by using the SE attention mechanism has smoother color block edges and less noise. The reason for the gap caused by using different attention mechanisms may be that different attention mechanisms increase the learning ability of generators to different degrees, and some make it difficult for generators and discriminators to form effective competition. Through the above experiments, the blue calico automatically generated by the method based on the SE attention CycleGAN network is closer to the original style. Through this algorithm, the design process of the blue calico can be simplified, which is beneficial to the digital inheritance and innovation of the blue calico.As a national intangible cultural heritage, the blue calico is of important value and significance. In this paper, an end-to-end network SE-CycleGAN based on the SE attention mechanism is proposed. Compared with other networks, the content of the image is better integrated with the style of the blue calico. The proposed network does not need matching datasets, so it can be well migrated to the generation of other similar patterns. Nevertheless, due to the limitation of the dataset and resolution, the patterns generated at present are still relatively simple. The next research work will focus on studying the method of generating multi-class and complex blue calico. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]