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Sand waves are found on shallow, sandy seabeds throughout the world and their dynamics may pose an imminent threat to offshore construction. Therefore, there is a pressing need to understand bed level dynamics in sand wave areas. These bed level dynamics lead to variations in sand wave shape and migration rate over time. However, these variations cannot be explained with the present-day process-based sand wave models, which all include a purely periodic tidal forcing. To explain these fluctuations a more intricate description of the hydrodynamics is necessary. The aim of this study is to explore the importance of time-varying, non-tidal currents for sand wave dynamics in the North Sea. We adopted the three-dimensional Delft3D-Flexible Mesh model, and were able to reconstruct time-varying, non-tidal currents on top of the periodic tidal forcing, while significantly reducing computation times. The simulated currents and water levels showed a good agreement with in-situ measurements. Compared to the situation with only tidal forcing, the simulated sedimentation and erosion rates were amplified up to 15 times due to time-varying, non-tidal currents. Additionally, periods of net erosion were found at locations in the sand wave transect where tidally forced models only showed net-sedimentation. It is therefore important to consider time-varying, non-tidal currents when predicting future sand wave dynamics in the field. • The reproduction of observed hydrodynamics is improved significantly compared to previous sand wave modelling approaches. • Effects of time-varying, non-tidal currents on sediment transport in sand wave fields are quantified. • Net sedimentation rates due to time-varying, non-tidal currents are be up to 15 times larger than the tidally induced rates. • First application of Delft3D FM software to study sand wave dynamics leads to a significant decrease in computation time. • Excluding time-varying, non-tidal currents can lead to underestimation of sand wave migration and trench infill rates. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storms and extremely energetic events may significantly impact the form and structure of beaches, and so cause erosive processes and coastal damages. Efficient management actions require an up-to-date and accurate knowledge of beach morphological changes, with the shoreline position being a good indicator of such changes. This work proposes the use of the open-source Shoreline Analysis and Extraction Tool (SAET) software for the definition of satellite-derived shorelines (SDSs) from L8 and Sentinel-2 imagery to reveal the shoreline position changes at the beaches of the Ebro Delta, NE Spain. Spatial-temporal models (STMs) of shoreline changes enable a characterisation of how the beaches responded to the storms of 2020. In conjunction with wave data, STMs enable an analysis of the erosive response to storm events, as well as a monitoring of subsequent beach recovery in the short and medium term (<1 year). Results show how Storm Gloria (January 2020, Hs max = 7.62 m) acted as a disruptive event and shifting point in the shoreline trend. As a response to that storm, major erosive processes occurred along the delta that caused an average shoreline retreat of 47 m. A progressive recovery during the spring and summer was mainly associated with periods of low wave energy. Nevertheless, by the end of the year a complete recovery had been achieved for about half of the coast, while the other half showed an average erosion of more than 10 m when compared to the pre-storm situation. Both the erosive and the recovery processes took place unevenly on different sections of the coast, probably dependent on factors such as the orientation of the beach and the pattern of longitudinal sediment transport along the coast. • Automatic shoreline extraction from Sentinel 2 and Landsat 8 imagery using SAET. • Pre and post-storm characterisation of SDS position in time and space using STMs. • Storm Gloria (January 2020) caused an unprecedented and heterogeneous impact on the Ebro Delta. • Slow recovery occurred in the months following the event conditioned by orientation and wave patterns. • About half of the delta showed a significant shoreline retreat by the end of 2020. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m3 over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m3, representing 1.7% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS. • Predicting nearshore–dune morphodynamics is enabled with a new 2D coupling framework. • The model reproduces the Sand Engine's dynamics in both marine and aeolian domains. • Alongshore varying marine sediment transport influences foredune growth patterns. • Marine alongshore transport is slightly reduced by aeolian transport into the dunes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge, a major disaster in coastal areas, is generated by tropical cyclones. Strong currents and waves during storm surges often cause sediment transport and beach erosion, significantly damaging the coastal ecosystem. This paper presents a flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. In the model, the flow field is calculated using the generalized shallow water equations coupled with the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, while sediment transport and bed changes are computed using a non-equilibrium total-load sediment transport model. The model solves the governing equations by employing the explicit finite-volume approach based on a rectangular mesh. The Godunov-type central upwind scheme is adopted to calculate the interface fluxes, thereby solving the complex Riemann problem. A series of numerical experiments considering wave-induced longshore current and short-term bed erosion are conducted to validate the established model and demonstrate its ability to simulate waves, flow fields, and bed changes during storm surge. Specifically, we used the model to simulate the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge, and the results indicate that the model accurately predicts the real-case erosion process caused by storm surge and overwash during the hurricane. The simulated results clearly explain overwash development, including washover fans, foredune erosion, and back-barrier deposition. It demonstrates that the front dune significantly eroded with the Santa Rosa barrier island coastline retreating by a maximum of about 80 m during the storm surge. More than three breaches with a width of up to 135 m were formed on the sandy barrier due to wave overwash, while the topography at the breach changed significantly. • A new flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model is developed to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. • A series of numerical experiments conducted using the new model demonstrates its ability and it successfully predicts the overwash erosion of the Santa Rosa barrier island during Hurricane Ivan's storm surge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by dunes can be facilitated by an understanding and description of the physical processes that take place. Field measurements, knowledge of underlying processes and numerical modelling have developed with time, which enabled a more comprehensive description and new predictive techniques. This review concerns dune erosion in the collision regime, and summarises relevant observations, describes underlying processes and explains existing models predicting dune erosion. Observations of dune erosion consist of field observations, laboratory experiments and manipulative field campaigns. The underlying physical processes that contribute to dune erosion are divided into processes that contribute to sediment transport due to hydrodynamic forcing, which occurs in the surf and swash zone, and sediment transport due to avalanching, which occurs in the swash zone, on the dune face and on the dune crest. The existing dune erosion models that are discussed here contain (empirical) equilibrium profile models and process-based models, which can both be a valuable tool for the risk assessment of storm surges. However, model uncertainties still remain, as specific processes are not yet fully understood and described. Examples are the influences of wave obliquity, sediment grain size, and vegetation on the dune face. By improving our knowledge through research and reducing these uncertainties, we can further improve our predictive models. This could eventually lead to more accurate predictions, more complete risk assessments, and sandy coastlines which are more resilient to excessive dune erosion and possible floods. • Reviews dune erosion during storm surges in the collision regime. • Summarises relevant field and laboratory observations • Summarises underlying hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes • Summarises existing dune erosion models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Training walls to improve navigability at river mouths alter natural sediment transport regimes, occasioning morphological changes in the nearby littoral zone. In addition, harbor channels and shorelines are susceptible to on-going changes in global circulation conditions and large-scale engineering interventions. Here we present a process-based modeling approach to determine the relationship between spatial patterns of erosion and deposition, seasonal river discharge, and the geometry of coastal defenses. The study uses the Magdalena River delta as an example, where the redistribution of freshwater and sediments after the construction of the "Tajamar" training wall heralded significant morphological changes in the area. The numerical experiments are used to describe how the erosion and deposition patterns within the estuary and delta of the Magdalena River are linked to the seasonal cycle of the Magdalena River and to the geometry of the hard structures. We demonstrate that the construction of the Tajamar and complementary hard structures would have decreased depositional fluxes in the littoral zone, leading to the observed shoreline retreat and disappearance of an extensive coastal lagoon system. It is shown that an aperture in the training walls may help restore the wetlands without compromising navigability. In addition, projected increases in mean sea level are shown to decrease velocities within the lower estuary, potentially causing increased sedimentation within the channel and more complex conditions for the management of safe navigation over the Magdalena River estuary. • Seawall construction on the Magdalena River, Colombia, resulted in the redistribution of freshwater and sediments. • Numerical experiments provide evidence that shoreline retreat was caused by the altered sedimentation regime. • A diversion system in the training walls may help restore sediment supply to the shorelines without risking navigability. • Sea level rise may increase rates of sedimentation within the estuary. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Velocity-skewed oscillatory sheet flow transport is studied by an approximate model for instantaneous sediment transport resulting from exponential profiles of sediment concentration and velocity over a mobile bed. The phase lag effect, and asymmetry in wave friction factor, oscillatory flow orbital amplitude, roughness height, bed shear stress and wave boundary layer thickness are modelled so that the net boundary layer stream of pure velocity-skewed oscillatory flow can be obtained. The proposed model is found consistent with the previous classical formulas, and qualitatively refines a series of exponents of velocity power function for the approximation of instantaneous sediment transport rate under different flow conditions. The sediment fluxes can be well predicted with accuracy as that of a two-phase numerical model. The net boundary layer stream and sediment transport rates are also well predicted, especially the negative net stream and rates with large phase residual. The phase residual is shown a useful but insufficient factor in the net sediment transport in pure velocity-skewed flows. In addition, the net boundary layer stream resulting from velocity-skewed wave boundary layer development difference between onshore and offshore flow durations is an essential factor as well. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study the numerical model Delft3D is implemented on high-resolution grids to evaluate beach morphological response to groins and submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. The numerical model is compared with field measurements from three sites on the northern Yucatan coast of Mexico. At these sites, relatively low energy waves with significant wave heights arrive at a steep oblique angle to the coast that drives high sediment transport rates. After calibration of the model, by adjustment of model free parameters, the model results show accurate representations of the diurnal variation of hydrodynamic conditions (wave height and current velocity) driven by the daily sea-breezes. Moreover, the morphodynamic model shows a good representation of the rapid morphological changes, particularly of the accretion pattern caused by a temporary groin and the subsequent recovery following the structure removal. However, erosion patterns at the downdrift areas of structures were not reproduced, owing to the numerical model limitations of simulating swash morphodynamics. Model validation with field observations of the beach response behind submerged breakwaters enabled the model to be used for a parametric study. Following previous work, new equations are developed in the present study that show an improvement for predicting shoreline changes near submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. Despite the limitations in reproducing downdrift erosion, overall the high-resolution modelling approach satisfactorily simulates the hydrodynamic and the updrift accretion responses to coastal structures on sandy beaches with oblique waves. • Simulations of beach change near groins and submerged breakwaters are performed. • Results are compared to measurements at three sites with high sediment transport rates. • New equations show improved prediction of shoreline change near submerged structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal dunes provide many ecosystem services including protection of infrastructure from wave overtopping and habitat for native species. Foredunes grow at different rates and assume different forms (i.e., short and wide to tall and narrow) depending on a range of factors including pre-existing beach and dune morphology, wind, wave, and water levels, sediment grain size, and vegetation characteristics, yet the relative importance of these factors on foredune growth is understudied. Here, we quantify foredune evolution (2016–2019) and explore the relative influence of a suite of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors for dune growth on three barrier islands in the U.S. North Carolina Outer Banks (Cape Lookout National Seashore). We incorporate observed and hindcast wind, wave, and water level data into the process-based, coupled beach-dune evolution model, Windsurf, to explore the relative contribution of factors likely to influence foredune growth at the annual timescale (2016–2017). Our cross-shore topographic profile observations show varied interannual foredune change rates and characteristics, including horizontal retreat and progradation at the dune toe and vertical erosion and accretion at the dune crest. Model results indicate that, of the factors explored, pre-existing morphology had the greatest influence on the type of foredune growth that occurred (i.e., incipient dune development, widening of the dune, and/or vertical accretion), which dramatically altered the final shape of the dune. Variations in wind and wave climates were associated with the relative contribution of marine- and aeolian-driven bed elevation changes and were particularly influential during storms. In addition, increases in the minimum elevation of vegetation on the dune profile (analogous to the cross-shore distance between the shoreline and established vegetation line, i.e., the vegetation limit, as coined by Duran and Moore, 2013) increased dune crest height and dune volume. Moreover, variations in the minimum vegetation elevation resulted in a larger range of dune crest elevations and dune volumes than differences in the median sand grain size. We suggest that insights into the relative influence of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors to dune growth can assist in the development of practical coastal management strategies. • Pre-existing beach-dune morphology had the largest influence on dune growth type. • Exposure to the dominant wave direction led to increased dune volume. • Higher minimum vegetation elevation and finer sand resulted in taller dunes. • Minimum vegetation elevation influenced dune growth more than sand grain size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Underneath rock slopes of rubble mound structures often one or more granular filter layers are present. These filter layers prevent base material washout. In contrast to traditional filters, geometrically open filters allow for some movement of base material. In order to design such open filters the amount of erosion and accretion of base material needs to be predicted. Based on 2D physical model tests Van Gent and Wolters (2015) presented a method to estimate the erosion and accretion of sand underneath rock slopes. Since the developed method was only valid for perpendicular wave attack, a new study has been performed to assess effects of oblique wave attack on the amount of erosion and accretion of sand underneath a rock slope. For that purpose 3D physical model tests were performed in a wave basin with 5 different wave angle between 0° (perpendicular wave attack) and 75°. Based on the test results it was shown how the effects of wave obliquity can be taken into account in the design of open filters. In addition, the effect of the storm duration on open filters has been studied. This led to an extended design method to predict the amount of erosion and accretion of sand underneath rock slopes under wave loading. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mega-nourishments, aiming at providing long-term coastal safety, nature qualities and recreational space, have been applied recently at the Holland coast and are considered at various other places in the world. Methods to quickly evaluate the potential and lifetime of these coastal mega nourishments are therefore very much desired, which is the main objective of this research. Two types of mega nourishments can be distinguished: feeder-type mega nourishments may erode freely to feed adjacent coasts for a more natural, dynamic dune growth while permanent mega-nourishments are designed to preserve safety levels and need to maintain their size and shape and thus needs to be nourished themselves. The design and impact assessment studies for both types of mega nourishments require detailed morphological studies to determine the morphological evolution. In this paper 2DH (Delft3D) and 1D (UNIBEST-CL+ and LONGMOR) numerical models were calibrated using data of the Sand Motor mega-nourishment and were then applied to model a series of mega-nourishments with various width over length ratios and volumes in order to derive relations and design graphs for erosion rates, life span and maintenance volumes. These relations and design graphs can be used in project initiation phases and feasibility studies. The magnitude of the modelled wave-driven longshore sediment transport rates in 1D coastline models depend on the representation of wave refraction on the lower shoreface, since a distinction should be made between the non-rotating lower shoreface and active surfzone. It was shown that the life time of nourishments is mainly determined by the dimensions of the nourishment and incoming wave energy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Experimental results involving shoreface nourishment scenarios are presented. The experiments are performed at small scale and the effects of nourishment placement and timing in relation to long-term cross-shore profile development are investigated. Four different nourishment scenarios are tested experimentally, with nourishment positioned both in the trough of a pre-developed profile as well as along the bar of the profile. The results demonstrate that under all scenarios the erosion of the shoreline slows relative to the case without nourishment. The two cases where the nourishment was placed along the bar reduced erosion of the shoreline more compared to the two cases with nourishment in the trough onshore of the bar. Compared to past experiments on nourishment presented in the literature, the present experiments were run for a longer duration, and the concepts of equilibrium profile and the development towards such an equilibrium were investigated. Curiously, the experiments showed a reversal of the sediment transport rate from being primarily offshore directed across the entire profile to onshore directed in the inner surf zone region closest to the shoreline. This reversal of transport rate occurred without changing the incoming wave conditions and resulted in deposition at the shoreline. This either questions the existence of equilibrium beach profiles or at the very least shows that the development towards such an equilibrium will not always be monotonic in time. • Shoreface nourishments are performed at model scale investigating the influence of timing and placement on long term profile development. • Placement of nourishment can disturb the cross-shore profile shape over long time. • After long time running with the same wave climate the transport rate changed from offshore directed to onshore directed in the inner surf zone. • The change in sign was related to cessation of wave-breaking and resulted in sand returning to an otherwise eroding beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Flooding and erosion are among the most relevant hazards for coastal regions and although they are linked, their inherent complexity has typically led them to be addressed separately, potentially leading to highly uncertain estimates. This paper has three aims: (a) to present a methodology for coupling coastal flood projections with shoreline changes; (b) to quantify the effects of neglecting the coupling of flooding and erosion on future projections at a case study location; and (c) to analyse the relative importance of the climate-related uncertainty sources. We use a suite of statistical, process-based, and physics-based models to generate and downscale storms, compute water levels affected by storm morphodynamics and long-term profile changes and propagate flooding over topo-bathymetries that are in turn modified to incorporate the impact of sea-level rise, longshore sediment transport and storm-driven erosion. We sample climate uncertainty by considering storm variability (synthetic generation) and ensembles of radiative forcing scenarios, regional climate models, and sea-level rise trajectories. For illustration purposes, we consider a 40-km coastal stretch in the Spanish Mediterranean. We find that if the effect of erosion is neglected, the mean values of the total water level and flooded area can be either over- or underestimated by up to 18% and 22%, and up to 7% and 85%, respectively, with respect to our coupled results. The factors that most influence total water levels are storm erosion and profile geometry, highlighting the relevance of using real profiles in shoreface translation. In the flooded area, longshore transport can play a fundamental enhancing role. We also find that the coupling approach used can contribute more to the projection of flooded areas than the choice of climate models and sea-level rise trajectories even by 2100 (up to 76% versus 8% and 16%, respectively). We conclude that neglecting erosion effects on coastal flooding can have management implications, especially for urban beaches, leading to poor adaptation planning and maladaptation. • We develop coupled coastal flooding and erosion projections for 2050 and 2 100. • We consider uncertainties in scenarios, climate models, storms, and sea-level rise. • Uncoupling erosion and flooding leads to biases in water levels and flooded areas. • Coupling erosion and flooding can affect flooded areas more than sea-level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Nowadays there are numerous computational tools to forecast the evolution of the shoreline position in sandy coast environments. However, few studies have waited for the time horizon of the predictions to actually check the accuracy of the forecasted scenarios. Thus, this work proposed to assess the accuracy of medium-term predictions made with Long-Term Configuration (LTC) and GENEralised model for SImulating Shoreline change (GENESIS) numerical models for the time horizon of 15-year and evaluate the models' performance in forecasting the actual status of a complex sandy coastal stretch in 2018, the targeting year. The projection premises were already presented in Baptista et al. (2014) on which observational data used to calibrate and blind hindcast future scenarios of shoreline development was discussed. The case study focused on an area located downdrift of Poço da Cruz groin, on the northwest Portuguese coast, and considered two beach sectors in accordance with Baptista et al. (2014): sector AC, about 3.5 km long, and sector AB, about 2.4 km long and included in the first one. The whole coastal stretch is composed of sandy beaches, and past trends highlight erosion downdrift of Poço da Cruz groin due to the interruption of sediment transport. A monitoring program performed by the University of Aveiro between 2003 and 2018 (corresponding to the period of simulation presented in Baptista et al., 2014), including six topographic surveys, was considered for comparison with the projections previously made. An additional topographic survey performed in 2018, within COSMO programme, was also considered. Simulations results have proved divergent performances of LTC and GENESIS models, despite the equity of inputs parameters and modelling processes. It is concluded that GENESIS and LTC, considering the typical (TYP) wave climate (randomly generated to represent the typical frequencies of wave height and direction during five years), create an envelope (GENESIS below and LTC above) to the real average results. For TYP, GENESIS underestimates the mean retreat rates up to 23 m in sector AB and up to 23 m in AC; LTC overestimates the retreat up to 33 m in sector AB and up to 13 m in AC. Conversely, observed (OBS) wave climate (shorter characterisation period but maintaining the registered data sequence) projections overestimate the shoreline retreat in both coastal stretches, suggesting that a larger characterisation period should be more important than maintaining the sequence of recorded waves. For OBS, the models overestimate the mean retreat rates in both sectors: GENESIS overestimates up to 90 m in sector AB and up to 51 m in AC; LTC overestimates up to 60 m in AB and up to 60 m in AC. Also, the consideration of the artificial nourishment operations executed during the simulation period leads to better results in the LTC, which was overestimating the erosion rate. This showed that if all man-made interventions could be anticipated, the average retreat in the main sector, AC, would only be up to 5 % different from the projections made by Baptista et al. (2014) with LTC model and TYP wave climate. • Checked accuracy of 15-year forecasts. • Checked performance of LTC and GENESIS shoreline evolution models. • The wave sampling period used in calibration has relevant impact on forecasts made. • LTC and GENESIS create an envelope to the real average retreat surveyed. • Better projections would be achieved if planed interventions were known in advance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper concerns numerical modelling of the impact on the littoral drift and the shoreline from groynes forming a field of equidistant and identical groynes. The most important effect of a groyne on the shoreline morphology is that the littoral drift is blocked completely or partially. A local reduction in the littoral drift around the groyne introduces alongshore gradients in the alongshore sediment transport and sedimentation and erosion around the groyne which will cause re-orientation of the bed contours towards the prevailing wave direction until an equilibrium is reached. A discussion of this mechanism is presented including effects of scales, e.g. the effect of the relative length of the groynes (compared to the width of the surf zone). The model results indicate a strong dependency of the reduction in littoral drift on the initial geometric bypass ratio (Q geo *), which is defined from the groyne length and the littoral transport on the undisturbed coastline; Q geo * is the transport occurring outside the tip of the groynes divided by the total transport. It is found that the sensitivity of the littoral drift to variations in groyne spacing and the angle, of the approaching waves, is inversely proportional to Q geo *. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Experimental measurements are obtained to investigate the detailed hydrodynamics of wave–wave interactions in the swash-zone. Two bores are generated using a double dam-break mechanism and interact on a 1:10 impermeable rough slope. Measurements of the hydrodynamics are obtained via acoustic displacement sensors and a combined particle image velocimetry and laser induced fluorescent system. Two types of interactions are investigated: wave capture, with the second bore reaching the first one during the uprush, and weak wave–backwash interactions when interaction happens during the backwash of the first wave. The relative strength of the bores at the initial shoreline and time between their arrivals determines the initial type of interaction, however the type as well as the intensity of the interaction may vary throughout the swash-zone for the same swash event. During wave capture and weak wave–backwash interactions, the fluid of the first bore is advected upwards, then mixed with the fluid of the second bore by intense shearing and highly turbulent vortices generated at the front of the second bore because of the relative velocity differences between the two bores. The details of the hydrodynamics during interaction confirm the potential of swash–swash interactions to suspend sediment and transport it shoreward or interrupt seaward sediment transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal zones are vulnerable to both erosion and flood risk, which can be assessed using coupled hydro-morphodynamic models. However, the use of such models as decision support tools suffers from a high degree of uncertainty, due to both incomplete knowledge and natural variability in the system. In this work, we show for the first time how the multilevel Monte Carlo method (MLMC) can be applied in hydro-morphodynamic coastal ocean modelling, here using the popular model XBeach, to quantify uncertainty by computing statistics of key output variables given uncertain input parameters. MLMC accelerates the Monte Carlo approach through the use of a hierarchy of models with different levels of resolution. Several theoretical and real-world coastal zone case studies are considered here, for which output variables that are key to the assessment of flood and erosion risk, such as wave run-up height and total eroded volume, are estimated. We show that MLMC can significantly reduce computational cost, resulting in speed up factors of 40 or greater compared to a standard Monte Carlo approach, whilst keeping the same level of accuracy. Furthermore, a sophisticated ensemble generating technique is used to estimate the cumulative distribution of output variables from the MLMC output. This allows for the probability of a variable exceeding a certain value to be estimated, such as the probability of a wave run-up height exceeding the height of a seawall. This is a valuable capability that can be used to inform decision-making under uncertainty. • First use of MLMC (multilevel Monte Carlo) with a coupled hydro-morphodynamic model. • Large drop in computational cost for same accuracy using MLMC instead of Monte Carlo. • Determine the distribution of variables of interest in coastal zone cases using MLMC. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Nearshore submerged structures made of sand-filled geosystems are an interesting use for this type of coastal protection technology. These systems have an advantage over more traditional materials such as concrete units or rock, which is the limited and non-permanent impact on natural coastal processes. On top of that are also some important research achievements and improvements at the level of the materials. However, at more exposed hydraulic conditions under high wave energy its application is still hampered by the lack of knowledge about their performance. This paper describes research results based on a series of laboratory measurements of the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic change produced in the vicinity of submerged nearshore structures. An analysis of the different model outputs produced, with respect to sediment transport, wave reflection and wave-induced pressures, has been made and is discussed throughout the paper. Such a comparative analysis provides insights into the efficiency of each defence scheme in maintaining a beach and in protecting the shoreline. The sand-filled geosystems as nearshore submerged structures proved to be efficient in retarding the offshore movement of sediments and in maintaining the shoreline, even if instabilities due to elements' displacement and local scour have been observed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wind waves breaking at an angle with the shoreline force the drifting of littoral sediments, which is known for contributing to the formation and growth of barrier spits. Intriguingly, increased rates of longshore wave power have also been associated with the erosion of some barrier spits on the updrift margin of tidal inlets. Therefore, a numerical experiment was designed and is presented here, which investigates the possible links between the longshore wave power and the shortening of these elongated coastal barriers. Based on a process-based model, the experiment provides new insights into the forces at play in the redistribution of sediments between a sandspit and its adjacent inlet, respectively the Cap Ferret and the Bay of Arcachon's tidal inlet, in SW France. More particularly, model scenarios were defined that show how combined waves and tide create gradients of residual sediment transport responsible for a sediment deficit at the spit – inlet boundary. The deficit was also found to deepen with increasing longshore wave energy, as if the transfer of sediment from the spit to inlet shoals was accelerated. This physically explains the previously observed retreat of the spit's distal end during periods dominated by the positive phase of North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) in winter. Indeed, according to model results, higher and/or more oblique waves associated with the positive phase of the NAO are expected to increase the transfer and storage of the drifting sediments to and by the inlet shoals, and this at the expense of the spit. While these conclusions remain valid, we noticed that the sensitivity of model results to the bottom friction enhanced the importance of accurately representing the spatio-temporal distribution of bed roughness when investigating the morphodynamic interactions between real-world tidal inlets and their margins. • Residual sediment transport is modelled at a mixed energy tidal inlet. • Waves with tides create transport gradients near the inlet's updrift spit extremity. • Larger or more oblique waves deepen this gradient and reinforce the sand deficit. • Physically sounded explanation to enhanced spit erosion during NAO + winters. • Bed roughness models need to be improved for 2DH inlet-spit morphodynamic modelling. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Multi-purpose Artificial Reefs (MPARs) are structures that may provide aesthetically acceptable coastal protection and improve recreational outcomes. Twenty years after construction of the first MPAR, Narrowneck Reef on the Gold Coast of Australia, most of the available literature is still focused on the planning, design and construction of such structures and peer-reviewed publications on their post-construction monitoring, interaction with sediment transport and impacts on coastal morphology are lacking. The aim of this paper is to evaluate how does Narrowneck Reef influence the sediment transport, and morphological changes around the anthropogenic structure, two decades after construction. To do so, a combination of ten high spatial resolution topo-bathymetric surveys from the top of the dune to the 10 m depth captured over 21 months and a series of 60 simulations using a calibrated numerical model were used. Our results demonstrate that: although not expected during design or reported in similar structures, sand can bypass the MPAR around its offshore end; under oblique waves, the longshore currents are deflected as they pass the reef, resulting in a shadow zone on the downdrift side where sand deposits; the bar crest tends to be higher on the reef's updrift side compared to downdrift, indicating that the MPAR can act as a store for sediments, as initially designed. Furthermore, the MPAR can act to stabilise the bar as it moves onshore with a downdrift offset of the inner bar as a result of low oblique wave incidence. The results presented here demonstrate that the short-term response to the MPAR twenty years after construction is more closely related to the updrift build up of sand and the deflection of longshore currents as they encounter the reef than to the dissipation of wave energy. This is because MPARs are designed to dissipate just enough wave energy so that they can achieve their recreational goal (surfing). • Beach morphodynamic state and tide level influence sediment transport pathways. • Sand bypassing occurs mainly inshore of the structure. • Under large oblique waves, sand bypass can occur offshore of the structure. • Deflection of longshore currents influence morphological response to the reef. • Bar crest is usually higher on the reef's updrift side compared to downdrift. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Thus far various numerical models have been developed and improved to aid understanding of the sediment transport process due to tsunamis. However, the applicability of these models for the field-scale bathymetric change remains a major issue due to the scarcity of measured bathymetric data immediately before and after tsunamis. This study focuses on assessing the applicability of the sediment transport model by comparing the model results with measured bathymetry data obtained one month before and two months after the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami at Kirinda Fishery Harbor, Sri Lanka. Obtained model results were compared with measured data along four different transects. In particular, similar to the measured data, the model reproduced the bed level change at the harbor mouth well, although it shows some discrepancy on bathymetric change along the shoreline, which is directly affected by littoral drift. Therefore, it is noted that the divergence of reproducing the local bathymetry change is due to the normal wind wave effect on measured data and the model limitations. Hence we included the wind wave effect in modeled data and the discrepancy between measured and modeled data was reduced. Furthermore, the modeled bed level change indicates a dynamic behavior in terms of the net variation during the tsunami flow, such that deposition dominates in the inflow and erosion dominates in the backflow. Both bed level variation and the suspended load concentration reveal that the large amount of eroded sediment attributable to tsunami waves was in suspended form and was deposited in the nearshore area after the water fluctuation had abated. The model results further indicate that eroded sediment at the initial depth deeper than 11m might be brought by the incoming tsunami waves and deposited in the nearshore area where the depth is shallower than 7m. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Indian River Inlet is located at roughly the mid-point of the Atlantic coast of Delaware and connects the ocean to two Delaware inland bays. Jetties constructed in 1940 have maintained the inlet for navigation purposes but have also acted as a barrier to net northerly alongshore sediment transport causing downdrift erosion. A mobile, land-based bypassing system was initiated in 1990 in an effort to counteract this erosion. Beach profile data from 1985 (pre-bypassing) until 2008 are used to investigate the effect of the sand bypassing system on beaches adjacent to the inlet. The downdrift beach experienced horizontal shoreline erosion between 10 and 60m during the pre-bypassing period but accreted 10–20m during the bypassing period. The mean shoreline location on the updrift beach during bypassing is 10–20m landward (erosion) of its position during the pre-bypassing period. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) amplitudes from analyses performed on mean-removed elevation surfaces during the periods of highest bypassed volume (average of 83% of design rate) showed that the influence of the bypassing system on the downdrift beach extends to about 1500m of the inlet. An EOF analysis showed that different morphologic responses were evident following the initiation of bypass operations. Temporal variations of shoreline and beach morphology were correlated to the temporal variations in bypassing rates on the downdrift beach only. The downdrift beach response was greatest near the inlet for larger bypassing volumes. Correlation in these instances occurred with a roughly 1-year time lag suggesting that the beach quickly redistributes the bypassed sand. EOF amplitude and shoreline response are weakly correlated to bypassed volumes when the system bypassed smaller volumes (average of 56% of design rate) of sand suggesting that there is a minimum bypassing rate, regardless of yearly variability, below which the effect on the downdrift beach is obscured. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A thorough discussion of results from laboratory experiments with regular waves sheds light on the gap that lies between the sediment transport associated with ripple migration and the performance of a standard bedload transport formula in terms of bed shear concept. It is found that the extent of deviations of the bedload transport formula by Ribberink (1998) from the measured rate of sediment transport associated with ripple migration becomes systematically apparent under conditions of increasing settling time factor Ω s (= η/(w 0 T); η is the ripple height, w 0 the settling velocity and T the wave period). Re-examination of previous two field studies demonstrates a further reinforcement for phase-lag argument addressed in this paper. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w s T, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w s T, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w s T, promoting erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A 2DH numerical, model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate overwash caused by Hurricane Ivan (2004) on a barrier island. The model is forced using parametric wave and surge time series based on field data and large-scale numerical model results. The model predicted beach face and dune erosion reasonably well as well as the development of washover fans. Furthermore, the model demonstrated considerable quantitative skill (upwards of 66% of variance explained, maximum bias −0.21m) in hindcasting the post-storm shape and elevation of the subaerial barrier island when a sheet flow sediment transport limiter was applied. The prediction skill ranged between 0.66 and 0.77 in a series of sensitivity tests in which several hydraulic forcing parameters were varied. The sensitivity studies showed that the variations in the incident wave height and wave period affected the entire simulated island morphology while variations in the surge level gradient between the ocean and back barrier bay affected the amount of deposition on the back barrier and in the back barrier bay. The model sensitivity to the sheet flow sediment transport limiter, which served as a proxy for unknown factors controlling the resistance to erosion, was significantly greater than the sensitivity to the hydraulic forcing parameters. If no limiter was applied the simulated morphological response of the barrier island was an order of magnitude greater than the measured morphological response. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A technique is described to observe and quantify wave-by-wave bed-level changes in the swash zone. The ultrasonic instrument system is non-contact with the beach face surface being measured and the sensors remain outside of the fluid flows causing sediment movement. Sensor resolution combined with the electronic noise inherent within a digital network data-logging system results in a (conservative) measurement accuracy of ±1 mm, equating to a couple of sand grain diameters in height. Illustrative field results demonstrate the practical use of the instrumentation, and a simple data pre-processing method to separate swashes and intervening bed-level ‘events’ is discussed. These example data reveal rather complex fluctuations of the bed observed over time periods of minutes to hours. Rather strikingly, gross bed-level changes per wave are revealed to be up to many orders of magnitude larger than the observed net rate of beach face evolution. It is outlined how observations of successive bed-level changes at multiple locations within a dense grid, combined with a consideration of sediment continuity, will now enable the total net sediment transported per uprush–backwash to be quantified. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Numerical modeling of a beach nourishment project is conducted to enable a detailed evaluation of the processes associated with the effects of nearshore dredge pits on nourishment evolution and formation of erosion hot spots. A process-based numerical model, Delft3D, is used for this purpose. The analysis is based on the modification of existing bathymetry to simulate “what if” scenarios with/without the bathymetric features of interest. Borrow pits dredged about 30 years ago to provide sand for the nourishment project have a significant influence on project performance and formation of erosional hot spots. It was found that the main processes controlling beach response to these offshore bathymetric features were feedbacks between wave forces (roller force or alongshore component of the radiation stress), pressure gradients due to differentials in wave set-up/set-down and bed shear stress. Modeling results also indicated that backfilling of selected borrow sites showed a net positive effect within the beach fill limits and caused a reduction in the magnitude of hot spot erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: To predict sediment transport under oscillatory sheet flow condition, especially for fine sand, is still a challenging research subject in coastal engineering. This paper describes a newly-developed numerical model based on two-phase theory with the use of a one-equation turbulence closure, and its applications in predicting fine sediment suspension in near-prototype oscillatory sheet flow conditions. Model results were compared with comprehensive laboratory measurements of flow velocity and sediment concentration under both symmetrical and asymmetrical oscillatory sheet flows from a large-scale water tunnel. Good agreements between the model results and measurements were achieved and the results demonstrated that the model is capable of reproducing detailed characteristics of sediment entrainment process in the sheet flow regime. The comparisons also revealed the fact that the concentration peaks at flow reversal is associated with the strong vertical sediment transport flux in the pickup layer, which has been widely observed in many laboratory experiments. The effects of flow reversal events on total sediment transport were also discussed. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Prediction of threshold conditions and incipient motion is the essential issue for the study of sediment transport. This work compares existing empirical threshold curves proposed for Shields diagram, a method based on the concept of probability of sediment movement, and an empirical method based on movability number. These methods are used to predict the incipient motion conditions for experimental runs taken from various studies. Most of the experimental data, used in this work, have not been used before in derivation of alternative formulations for Shields diagram and other methods. The empirical threshold curves based on the Shields entrainment function was the least successful at predicting the measured incipient motion conditions, while the use of the movability number gives good predictions of critical shear velocity compared with experimental data. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A new predictive formula for the total longshore sediment transport (LST) rate was developed from principles of sediment transport physics assuming that breaking waves mobilize the sediment, which is subsequently moved by a mean current. Six high-quality data sets on hydrodynamics and sediment transport collected during both field and laboratory conditions were employed to evaluate the predictive capability of the new formula. The main parameter of the formula (a transport coefficient), which represents the efficiency of the waves in keeping sand grains in suspension, was expressed through a Dean number based on dimensional analysis. The new formula yields predictions that lie within a factor of 0.5 to 2 of the measured values for 62% of the data points, which is higher than other commonly employed formulas for the LST rate such as the CERC equation or the formulas developed by Inman–Bagnold and Kamphuis, respectively. The new formula is well suited for practical applications in coastal areas, as well as for numerical modeling of sediment transport and shoreline change in the nearshore. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: At high bed shear stress sheet flows often occur in coastal waters in which high-concentration bedload sediments are transported in a thin layer near the bed. This paper firstly constructs a theoretical model (partial differential equations, PDEs) for the intense transport of non-cohesive bedload sediments by unidirectional currents and then seeks a special solution to the PDEs to determine the thickness of the bedload particle–water mixture, which could serve as the “reference height” that is often invoked in numerical computation and simulation of suspended sediment transport in turbulent flows. Moreover, a modified formula is presented to determine the “reference concentration”. Using a “uch” approach the present study derives a 1D formula for predicting bedload transport rate in sheet flows driven by asymmetric waves, with the help of a novel formula for evaluating wave friction factor. The new bedload formula can generically take into account slope angle (positive and negative), wash load concentration in the driving water flow and other factors that affect bedload transport rate. It compares well with measured data in a large-scale wave flume [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2002. Sheet flow dynamics under monochromatic non-breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 107(C10), 1301–1321], a large-scale oscillatory water tunnel [ Hassan, W.N., Ribberink, J.S., 2005. Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering, 52, 745–770] and in a swash zone of natural beach [Masselink, G., Hughes, M.G., 1998. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, 1179–1199]. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This paper analyses the morphological response induced by low-crested structures on the adjacent seabed, with particular interest in the erosion patterns that frequently develop at gaps and roundheads. The mechanisms responsible for erosion processes are examined by means of morphodynamic simulations with the numerical suite MIKE 21 CAMS developed by DHI Water & Environment. The main purpose of the paper is to verify how and how far a commercial code can predict bed evolution, in vicinity of defence structures in a real case, in order to get information that may be very useful for structure design and possible maintenance of existing works. The code is applied to a long-term simulation on a study site that is characterized by a composite intervention and suffers from severe erosion, Lido di Dante (Italy). The simulation covers the period (one year and a half) between two available multi-beam surveys, in order to have a detailed real bathymetry as starting point and another one, as accurate as the first, to compare numerical with surveyed results. All the other input data for the model, as waves, tide, wind and sediment characteristics, are derived from measurements in the area; moreover, the code is calibrated using wave and current data acquired during a field campaign. The bed evolution derived from simulations shows a good agreement with the survey both in the locations and in the intensity of erosive and depositional areas. A sensitivity analysis of results to some selected modelling parameters is performed on a shorter simulation period (one month), showing that accounting for bed slope in sediment transport modelling has greater effects in bathymetry evolution than the use of a complex sediment bathymetry or the representation of wave diffraction. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m3/year and 4 600 m3/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: For the general purposes of morphodynamic computations in coastal zones, simple formula-based models are usually employed to evaluate sediment transport. Sediment transport rates are computed as a function of the bottom shear stress or the near bed flow velocity and it is generally assumed that the sediment particles react immediately to changes in flow conditions. It has been recognized, through recent laboratory experiments in both rippled and plane bed sheet flow conditions that sediment reacts to the flow in a complex manner, involving non-steady processes resulting from memory and settling/entrainment delay effects. These processes may be important in the cross-shore direction, where sediment transport is mainly caused by the oscillatory motions induced by surface short gravity waves. The aim of the present work is to develop a semi-unsteady, practical model, to predict the total (bed load and suspended load) sediment transport rates in wave or combined wave-current flow conditions that are characteristic of the coastal zone. The unsteady effects are reproduced indirectly by taking into account the delayed settling of sediment particles. The net sediment transport rates are computed from the total bottom shear stress and the model takes into account the velocity and acceleration asymmetries of the waves as they propagate towards the shore. A comparison has been carried out between the computed net sediment transport rates with a large data set of experimental results for different flow conditions (wave-current flows, purely oscillatory flow, skewed waves and steady currents) in different regimes (plane bed and rippled bed) with fine, medium and coarse uniform sand. The numerical results obtained are reasonably accurate within a factor of 2. Based on this analysis, the limits and validity of the present formulation are discussed. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The 25-m onshore migration of a nearshore sandbar observed over a 5-day period near Duck, NC, is simulated with a simplified, computationally efficient, wave-resolving single-phase model. The modeled sediment transport is assumed to occur close to the seabed and to be in phase with the bottom stress. Neglected intergranular stresses and fluid–granular interactions, likely important in concentrated flow, are compensated for with an elevated (relative to that appropriate for a clear fluid) model roughness height that gives the best fit to the observed bar migration. Model results suggest that when mean-current-induced transport is small, wave-induced transport leads to the observed onshore bar migration. Based on the results from the simplified phase-resolving model, a wave-averaged, energetics-type model (e.g., only moments of the near-bottom velocity field are required) with different friction factors for oscillatory and mean flows is developed that also predicts the observed bar migration. Although the assumptions underlying the models differ, the similarity of model results precludes determination of the dominant mechanisms of sediment transport during onshore bar migration. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The inception of the sheet flow regime as well as the effects of the phase lag when the sheet flow regime is established were investigated for oscillatory flows and combined steady and oscillatory flows. A new criterion for the inception of sheet flow is proposed based on around 300 oscillatory flow cases from experiments. This criterion was introduced in the Camenen and Larson [Camenen, B., Larson, M., 2005. A bedload sediment transport formula for the nearshore. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 63, 249–260.] bed load formula in order to take into account phase-lag effects in the sheet flow regime. The modification of the Camenen and Larson formula significantly improves the overall agreement with data and yields a correct behavior in relation to some of the main governing parameters, which are the median grain size d 50, the orbital wave velocity U w, and the wave period T w. The calibration of the new formula was based on more than 200 experimental data values on the net sediment transport rate for a full wave cycle. A conceptual model was also proposed to estimate the ratio between sediment transport rate with and without phase lag, (r pl = q s,net / q s,net,ϕ=0). This simple model provides accurate results and may be used together with any quasi-steady model for bed load transport. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Low crested structures for beach defence purposes are frequently configured in the form of cells. This paper investigates the hydrodynamic and morphological response of such defence schemes by means of laboratory experiments and numerical simulations. Experiments were carried out at the large mobile-bed basin of the “Laboratorio di Idraulica Costiera” of the “Politecnico di Bari”, IT. Tests peculiarity is the simultaneous simulation of three different types of lateral confinement: a channel, representative of an indefinitely long structure, and two areas with narrow and wide gaps, representative of a common scheme and of an almost isolated structure respectively. Submerged, zero freeboard and emerged conditions were tested. A typical storm of the Northern Adriatic sea was reproduced by 6 wave attacks. Water level and currents were measured in front and behind the structures, at gaps and roundheads. Results, focusing on rip current intensities and piling-up, are presented and discussed. An extensive plan view of wave intensities and flow patterns inside the basin is provided through numerical simulations with MIKE 21 numerical suite. The sand bed was surveyed along 30 profiles covering the narrow gap area and the isolated structure roundheads. For the submerged conditions tests, 15 of these profiles and the shoreline position were monitored after each step of the simulated storm. Average and maximum values of local erosion at the structure toe are presented. Time evolution of erosion at gaps is related to the main hydrodynamic variables through Bijker sediment transport formula. Evaluation of volume changes in the protected area shows that sand is in average trapped behind the barriers, being transported offshore from gaps and returning inshore over the crest. The observed and reconstructed transport mechanism is a combination of bed load and suspended transport, the latter being slightly more important. Bed level changes are well predicted by morphodynamic simulations performed with MIKE 21 CAMS. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This paper focuses on the analysis of the morphological response induced by low-crested structures on the adjacent seabed, with emphasis on the far-field erosion that is frequently observed close to roundheads and at the gaps between structures. The analysis is based on observations of far-field erosion, both at prototype scale and in laboratory experiments. Mechanisms responsible for the observed erosion are highlighted using coastal area numerical modelling tools to simulate the flow patterns induced by schemes involving low-crested structures. Finally, an example of the use of a coastal area morphological modelling system to investigate the dependence of the far-field erosion processes on the freeboard of the coastal protection structures is presented and discussed. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A calibrated morphodynamic model of the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands [Grunnet, N.M., Walstra, D.J.R., Ruessink, B.G., 2004. Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Eng. 51/7, 581–607], comprising the island and its two adjacent tidal inlet systems, is applied to identify the relative contribution of tides, wind and waves to the cross-shore and alongshore redistribution of a 2 Mm3 nourishment supplied to the nearshore zone along the island. Several model simulations with varying combinations of horizontal and vertical tide, wind and wave forcing were designed to investigate the effect of each individual forcing on a large spatio-temporal scale (order of kilometres and months, respectively). As expected, stirring and transport by waves and wave-induced currents are predicted to be by far the dominant contributor to the net sediment transport along the coast of Terschelling. Because of the strong obliquity of the winds and the relatively small tidal currents in front of the island (≈0.5 m/s), alongshore wind-driven currents increase sediment transport rates and horizontal tides virtually have no net transport capacity. This motivated a local model of the study area along the closed coast of Terschelling, not including tidal inlets and further simplifying tidal boundary definitions by omitting the horizontal tides: morphodynamic simulations of the local model show virtually identical results as the larger model predictions. The reduction in complexity in setting up a local model instead of a regional model coupled with the corresponding significant reduction in computational time points to an increasing applicability of complex process-based models. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The autonomous nearshore bar behaviour along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands, is characterised by the presence of net seaward cyclic migrating sand bars generated near the shoreline. In 1993, a perturbation of the cyclic bar system was introduced by the implementation of a 2 Mm3 shoreface nourishment supplied to the nearshore bar zone, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. The morphodynamic response of the nearshore bars to the nourishment perturbation is investigated using a bathymetric data set with an alongshore extent of 12 km and sampled for 10 years. Bar behaviour is quantified in terms of bar crest position in relation to morphometric parameters such as bar depth, height, width and volume. Along with a pronounced development of a three-dimensional bar system unseen in the autonomous behaviour, the nearshore bars exhibited a 6–7 year arrest in their migrational behaviour during which bar morphology remained stable at immediate pre-nourishment morphometric values. At the subsequent onset of bar movement, bars resumed their migration at a rate predicted by autonomous behaviour in parallel development with morphometric parameters along their predicted trends. It is shown that the observed onshore transport of nourished sediment in the 6–7 year arrest results from a gradual deepening of troughs. Cross-shore sediment transport modelling is used to assess the effect of the nourishment on yearly averaged onshore (short-wave nonlinearity) and offshore (undertow) sediment transport rates. The gradual reappearance of the pre-nourishment bar-trough morphology is shown to engender a normalisation in the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport rates to pre-nourishment rates. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The Frisian Inlet is one of the tidal basins of the Dutch Wadden Sea. In 1969, its basin area was reduced by 30%. As documented by bathymetric surveys, this has led to an import of sediment of 30×106 m3 over the first 18 years. The study presented in this paper seeks to establish the mechanisms responsible for the passage of the sediment through the throat cross-section of the inlet channel. Emphasis is on a 14-day period of relative calm when sediment transport can be attributed solely to tidal currents. Use is made of continuous measurements of velocity, sand and silt concentration. The measurement station was located on one side of the throat cross-section in a water depth of approximately 6 m. For both the sand and silt fraction of the sediment, suspended load transport is the dominant transport mode. It is shown that for sand, concentration variations and net transport are determined by the local (in the throat section) velocity. Especially the residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry play an important role in the net sand flux. For silt, except for transport associated with locally generated vertical mixing, the net transport is largely determined by sedimentation–erosion processes in the basin and the silt concentration in the North Sea. Comparison with measurements in a station located in the middle of the throat section shows considerable difference in residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry. As a result, the sediment fluxes also differ. Accurately determining the net sediment flux in the throat section would require a dense net of measurement stations. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: We develop solutions for the transport of suspended sediment by a single swash event following the collapse of a bore on a plane beach, and we investigate the morphodynamical role that such transport may play. Although the intrinsic asymmetry between uprush and backwash velocities tends to encourage the export of sediment, we find that swash events may be effective in distributing across the swash zone much or all of the sediment mobilised by bore collapse; additionally, settling lag effects may promote a weak onshore movement of sediment. We quantify both effects in terms of the properties of the sediment and of the swash event, and comment on the relationship between our findings and recent field studies of swash zone sediment transport. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: One of the fundamental properties of a coastline is its sediment composition. Coastal sediments are rarely composed of one type of sediment. Due to these differences, the sediments are sorted on the beach and foreshore. The effect of density variations of the sediment on coastal sediment transport has been studied in a wave flume experiment. Two sands with an equal grain size distribution but with different densities (heavy minerals and quartz) have been used. Detailed measurements of profile evolution and of sediment composition have been used to assess the sediment transport rates for each sediment fraction. The experiments show that the presence of heavy minerals in the sediment results in reduced erosion on the beach face; the breaker bar is smaller and its crest is more pronounced. The transport rates of different sediment fractions are not only determined by the availability at the bed. In the inner surf zone close to the beach, armouring occurs; in the inner surf zone close to the breaker bar, sediments are entrained more easily than expected. For effective armouring, the heavy mineral fraction in the bed should exceed a certain level. This threshold concentration is reached first close to the beach and extends later in seaward direction. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Although beach nourishment policy in the Netherlands is generally successful in maintaining the 1990 shoreline, the efficiency of nourishments at several locations along the North Sea coast is unacceptably low. These locations are identified as “erosion hotspots”. Egmond aan Zee is such a hotspot. The bathymetric longshore irregularities make this coastal stretch highly susceptible to rip currents and horizontal circulations, which transport large volumes of (nourished) sand to the sea. In 1999, an alternative nourishment design was implemented. This consisted of a shoreface nourishment at the outer bar (at 7.5-m depth) combined with a nourishment of the beach behind it. High-resolution bathymetric surveys, carried out with the WESP, revealed that the shoreface nourishment resulted in a significant shoreward migration of the outer bar during 1999–2001. After 2 years, the system started to return to its natural dynamic equilibrium and lost the positive influence of the shoreface nourishment area: shoreward movement of bars and increase of bar height, which forms the first defense line of the mainland against the sea, and positive contribution to the sand budget, which increased as a result of the nourishment. After 3 years (May 1999 to April 2002), the sediment volume still had an increase of 477,500 m3 (45% of the applied sand) relative to May 1999. The shoreface nourishment area did not have a direct effect on the beach. The shoreface nourishment area probably will have to be maintained to retain the sediment on the beach in the long run. In Egmond, the shoreface nourishment started to disappear before the sediment could reach the beach. The time scale of sediment feed to the beach zone probably is of the order of 5–10 years. The shoreface nourishment seems to function as a reef, creating a lee-side effect that influences both cross-shore and longshore sediment transport, resulting in two main hypotheses. Firstly, the longshore effect, in which large waves break at the shoreface nourishment, cause a calmer wave climate shoreward of the shoreface nourishment area and a reduction of the longshore current. The shoreface nourishment partially blocks the wave-driven longshore current. Secondly, the cross-shore effect, in which shoaling waves generate onshore transport. These hypotheses are supported by generated model results with both a process-based profile model, UNIBEST-TC, and a process-based coastal area model, DELFT3D-MOR. The UNIBEST-TC model was able to predict the detachment of the outer bar from the shoreface nourishment and, to some extent, the shoreward bar movements. In the lee of the shoreface nourishment area, the model found an increase in sediment, confirming the shielding effect of the shoreface nourishment area. The DELFT3D model found, as a result of the shoreface nourishment area, a decrease of the flow velocity and the wave height just shoreward of the shoreface nourishment area. The model was able to predict the similar trend in sedimentation/erosion pattern, although the intensities were smaller. In the lee of the shoreface nourishment area, a clear sedimentation was found. Erosion was found south and seaward of the shoreface nourishment area. The modeled profiles did not follow the measured profile changes. The separation of the shoreface nourishment from the outer bar and the shoreward migration of the bars could not be accurately modeled. Because the cross-shore transport caused by wave asymmetry is not taken into account in the standard version of DELFT3D, these results were in line with the expectations. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A morphodynamic model previously developed to predict the evolution of sedimentary coasts is extended to compare the effects of abrasion and thermal-abrasion processes on Arctic coasts. It is concluded that under the same storm impact, an unfrozen abrasion cliff loses almost the same sediment volume and retreats at almost the same rate as a thermal-abrasion cliff of corresponding effective height. Thermal impact itself presumably does not contribute to the volume of sediment losses significantly and only prepares the frozen material to be removed by waves and currents. Whatever the potential of thermal-abrasion determined by thermal effects, the volume of lost material would be limited mostly by the potential transport capacity of storm wave activity, as in the case of a pure abrasion. The long-term losses of sediments for both types of coast can be determined using an empirical relationship incorporating the effective height of the cliff, hce, taking into account the subsidence of soil after thawing of ice. The proposed model is employed to predict the evolution of thermal-abrasion and accretionary coasts in the central and eastern Russian Arctic where the sea-ice conditions at present are more severe. The recession of the thermal abrasion cliffs is expected to accelerate by 1.4 to 1.5 times in the second half of the 21st century. Evolution of the accretionary coasts may lead to development of natural berms protecting the coast from erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A model is presented to simulate the long-term (decadal) evolution of microtidal spit-barrier systems. The model has been derived from the analysis of coastal processes taking place along the Trabucador-La Banya complex in the Ebro delta (Spanish Mediterranean coast). It is composed of two submodels to simulate the evolution of the seaside and bayside barrier shorelines. The outer coast submodel is of the one-line type, but formulated in curvilinear coordinates to reproduce the evolution of strongly curved coasts, which is a common configuration for spits. The model makes use of a long-term parameterization of the longshore sediment transport rate, which is formulated in terms of a morphological wave and a local transport constant. The inner coast submodel is based on a morphological equilibrium approach. It considers the overwash transport to be the dominant driving term contributing to the sediment budget of the inner coast. It makes use of the concept of critical barrier width to estimate the conditions under which overwash is able to contribute to bayside shoreline accretion. The model has been verified/calibrated for the Trabucador-La Banya system and it has been used to simulate its evolution under different climatic scenarios. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A numerical model is presented to simulate the formation and evolution of intertidal bar morphology (‘ridges and runnels’). Cross-shore sediment transport is modeled using a sediment transport shape function, which is a mathematical formulation that expresses the (volumetric) sediment transport rate as a function of cross-shore location. For energetic wave conditions, the shape function predicts offshore sediment transport in the surf zone and onshore transport outside the surf zone. For calm conditions, the shape function predicts onshore transport in the surf zone and zero transport outside the surf zone. The model is forced by measured wave/tide conditions and the time-integrated cross-shore sediment transport rate is obtained by advecting the shape function up and down the beach with changing tide levels. Morphodynamic feedback is included in the model. Specifically, the occurrence of relatively flat beach sections (troughs) leads to the subdivision of the beach profile into distinct cross-shore sediment transport cells, each forced by its own wave breaking conditions. Surf zone sediment transport in the troughs is considered zero and the troughs thus effectively serve as sediment transport barriers. According to the model and in agreement with field observations, intertidal bars form and migrate onshore under the influence of low-wave conditions, while offshore bar migration and flattening of the morphology occurs under high-wave conditions. The model supports the contention that ridge and runnel topography has a surf zone origin, but the ridges are not breakpoint bars in sensu stricto. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Morphodynamic modeling is employed in the present work to predict the long-term evolution (over the next 100 years) of typical sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic. The studied objects are the coasts of Varandey (the Barents Sea), Baydaratskaya Bay and Harasavey (the Kara Sea). The model developed takes into account both the short-term processes (storm events) and long-term factors (for example, changes in sea level, inter-annual variations in gross sediment flux, lack or excess of sediment supply). Predicted and observed morphological changes in coastal profiles are shown to agree well for time scales ranging from weeks to decades. It is revealed that under given environmental conditions, the morphological evolution is strongly influenced by storm surges and associated wind-driven circulation. The water level gradient created by a surge generates a seaward flow at the bed. This outflow is shown to be an important destructive mechanism contributing to the erosion and recession of Arctic coasts. The rate of change is found to depend on both the exposure of the coast (relative to the direction of dominant winds) and its height above the sea. The open coast of Varandey is expected to retreat as much as 300–500 m over 100 years, while recession of the less exposed coasts of Baydaratskaya Bay would not exceed about 100 m/century. If long-term sediment losses are insignificant, the rate of erosion decays with time and the morphodynamic system may tend toward equilibrium. It is concluded that the expected relative sea-level rise (up to 1 m over the nearest 100 years) is non-crucial to the future coastal evolution if an erosion activity is already high enough. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

The erosion of marine sediments, although difficult to predict, can lead to important implications in offshore engineering, sedimentology and coastal management. Continued research is, therefore, warranted to compile high-quality erosion data from which to develop models to better predict the erosion resistance of different types of marine sediments. In this paper, dimensional analysis is performed to express the threshold shear stress as a function of a selection of soil properties that are commonly linked to the erosion process of sediments. To identify the dominant dimensionless group, an experimental investigation on the erosion threshold was carried out using fine-grained sediments that were systematically prepared to ensure variations in (i) particle size distribution (i.e. fines content), (ii) bulk density, and (iii) hydraulic permeability. The samples included silica, carbonate and marine sediments, each of which are expected to have limited or no clay-mineral content. The measurements were analysed and compared with existing literature and predictive models. It was found that marine sediment samples with limited fines content showed good agreement with the empirical Shields curve, irrespective of particle size distribution, bulk density and permeability. In contrast, for finer marine sediment it was found that variations in these soil properties modify the threshold shear stress away from the Shields curve. Across each of these parameters only permeability appeared to independently correlate with the observed range of threshold measurements. Motivated by this finding, a model is introduced to predict the threshold shear stress as a function of permeability and the reference erosion rate that is used to define when the threshold is reached. The resulting expression is shown to quantitatively explain the experimental data and is found to also agree with existing data from the literature for quartz sediments with a wide range in fines content. An apparent advantage of the new model is that it is consistent with existing studies that identify variations in threshold shear stress due to changes in bulk soil parameters – including fines content and bulk density – since each of these parameters also affect permeability. • The effect of soil properties on the erosion behaviour of marine sediments. • Unique relationship between permeability and erosion threshold discovered. • Novel empirical relationship proposed to predict threshold shear stress for fine-grained sediments. • New model predicting threshold conditions agrees well with existing data from literature. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]