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Abstract: A technique is described to observe and quantify wave-by-wave bed-level changes in the swash zone. The ultrasonic instrument system is non-contact with the beach face surface being measured and the sensors remain outside of the fluid flows causing sediment movement. Sensor resolution combined with the electronic noise inherent within a digital network data-logging system results in a (conservative) measurement accuracy of ±1 mm, equating to a couple of sand grain diameters in height. Illustrative field results demonstrate the practical use of the instrumentation, and a simple data pre-processing method to separate swashes and intervening bed-level ‘events’ is discussed. These example data reveal rather complex fluctuations of the bed observed over time periods of minutes to hours. Rather strikingly, gross bed-level changes per wave are revealed to be up to many orders of magnitude larger than the observed net rate of beach face evolution. It is outlined how observations of successive bed-level changes at multiple locations within a dense grid, combined with a consideration of sediment continuity, will now enable the total net sediment transported per uprush–backwash to be quantified. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Numerical modeling of a beach nourishment project is conducted to enable a detailed evaluation of the processes associated with the effects of nearshore dredge pits on nourishment evolution and formation of erosion hot spots. A process-based numerical model, Delft3D, is used for this purpose. The analysis is based on the modification of existing bathymetry to simulate “what if” scenarios with/without the bathymetric features of interest. Borrow pits dredged about 30 years ago to provide sand for the nourishment project have a significant influence on project performance and formation of erosional hot spots. It was found that the main processes controlling beach response to these offshore bathymetric features were feedbacks between wave forces (roller force or alongshore component of the radiation stress), pressure gradients due to differentials in wave set-up/set-down and bed shear stress. Modeling results also indicated that backfilling of selected borrow sites showed a net positive effect within the beach fill limits and caused a reduction in the magnitude of hot spot erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: To predict sediment transport under oscillatory sheet flow condition, especially for fine sand, is still a challenging research subject in coastal engineering. This paper describes a newly-developed numerical model based on two-phase theory with the use of a one-equation turbulence closure, and its applications in predicting fine sediment suspension in near-prototype oscillatory sheet flow conditions. Model results were compared with comprehensive laboratory measurements of flow velocity and sediment concentration under both symmetrical and asymmetrical oscillatory sheet flows from a large-scale water tunnel. Good agreements between the model results and measurements were achieved and the results demonstrated that the model is capable of reproducing detailed characteristics of sediment entrainment process in the sheet flow regime. The comparisons also revealed the fact that the concentration peaks at flow reversal is associated with the strong vertical sediment transport flux in the pickup layer, which has been widely observed in many laboratory experiments. The effects of flow reversal events on total sediment transport were also discussed. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The numerical modelling of large-scale sediment transport and coastal morphology frequently requires significant model reduction and optimisation in order to achieve expedient conclusions. This study provides a detailed sensitivity analysis of various model ‘reduction’ techniques using the Bristol Channel, western U.K. as a case study. The work elucidates a number of the best practises for employment of state-of-the-art systems to complex coastal regions. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: In this note we point out a bias error that affects calibrations of ‘Bagnold-type’ energetics sediment transport models. Calibrations based on instantaneous measurements of fluid velocity and suspended sediment concentration incur an inherent increase in correlation between measured and predicted sediment transport rates because the measured fluid velocity resides on both sides of the calibration equation. Random, fully uncorrelated velocity and suspended load time series tests comparing the energetics model with a similar model which divides both sides of the equation by the velocity, showed that having velocity on both sides increased the R 2 correlation coefficient from its expected near zero value to 0.45. This “false correlation” can be as high as 0.55 when there is a high mean concentration relative to the concentration variance and there are small mean velocities. In contrast, when there is relatively high variability in concentration in the presence of large mean velocities (e.g. suspension events of coarse grains under waves in the surf zone with an alongshore current), the “false correlation” reduced to 0.35. Comparisons with data from two swash experiments and a surf zone study showed a similar increase in “false correlation”. Associated with the “false correlation” was a 4-fold overestimate of the calibration coefficient used to tune the sediment transport model under simulated noisy field measurement conditions. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This brief comment of Roos et al.''s [Roos, P.C., Hulscher, S.J.M.H. & de Vriend, H.J., 2008. Modelling the morphodynamic impact of offshore sandpit geometries. Coast. Eng. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.019] paper is aimed at supporting the validity of idealized process-based models as a valuable tool for the design of sand pits. The discussion moves from a brief description of the capabilities of an already existing idealized process-based model [Blondeaux, P. and Vittori, G. 2005a Morphological development of shallow sand pits. Proceedings 29th International Conference Coastal Engineering 2004, World Scientific (Jane McKee Smith ed) ISBN 981-256-995-2 pp. 2581–2593; Blondeaux, P. and Vittori, G., 2005b. Flow and sediment transport induced by tide propagation: part 2: the wavy bottom case. J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 110, No. C8, C08003] which can predict the morphological time development of sand pits. Then, the differences between Blondeaux & Vittori''s model and Roos et al.''s model are analysed to give to the potential user an idea of the range of applicability of the different models, also in relation to practical applications. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]