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AlMashan, N.; Al-Attar, I., and Neelamani, S., 2024. Assessment of annual sedimentation into Failaka Marina (Kuwait) and possible solutions for reduction of siltation. Journal of Coastal Research, 40(3), 527–553. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. Sedimentation is critical for ports, harbors, and marinas, requiring accurate assessment. Failaka Marina in Kuwait is experiencing a severe noncohesive sedimentation problem. The samples collected at the seven locations along the beach showed that the beach has a uniform grain-size diameter, meaning it is poorly graded sand. The sampling at the tip of the southern breakwater showed that the shoaling is mainly sand. The suspended-sediment concentration varies from 0.025 kg m–3 to 1.2 kg m–3, whereas the mean concentration at the marina entrance is 0.85 kg m–3. The time series of the suspended solids over a year in the seawater surrounding Failaka Island shows a range of 8 to 48,069 ppm. Such a considerable variation in suspended load is due to the massive amounts of dredging and spoil disposal at Boubyan Island and Basra Port (Iraq) when a high sediment load moves around Failaka Island with a concentration of more than 40,000 mg L–1. Annual sedimentation is about 2.35 m y–1, which is responsible for blocking the main entrance for navigation. Kuwait's Ministry of Communication allocates $4 to $6 million annually for dredging and disposal activities. This study evaluates the six marina entrance modification scenarios to determine the best scenario that achieves a measurable reduction in sedimentation rate in the Marina. Six marina breakwater modifications were studied, and annual sedimentation rates were numerically computed. The study use Coupled MIKE 21/3 to simulate hydrodynamic conditions for cohesive sediment transport in a problem area. Field data from 2015 calibrated and validated the model. The primary sediment-moving force is SE wind and sea-swell waves. Littoral drift along Failaka Island's southern coastline and high suspended-sediment concentration result in littoral drift and settling. The best scenario showed a 28% sedimentation reduction and a 26% reduction in maintenance dredging costs from the six studied scenarios. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tsunamis continue to pose an existential threat to life and infrastructure in many coastal areas around the world. One of the risks associated with tsunamis is the formation of deep scour holes around critical infrastructure and other coastal buildings, compromising their structural integrity and stability. Despite its importance, tsunami-induced scour is still given limited and simplified consideration in design guidelines for coastal structures. To further improve the understanding of tsunami-induced scour processes, and thus provide the basis for safer design of coastal structures, novel large-scale laboratory experiments have been conducted. The experiments featured a unique combination of boundary conditions, including a square coastal structure on a sloping and dry sandy beach. Single broken solitary waves were used to simulate tsunami bores. The spatiotemporal scour development directly at the square column was monitored by a high-resolution camera system, allowing a detailed description of the highly dynamic flow and scour process. Differences in the scour process between the wave runup and drawdown phases are described, and maximum and final scour depths are given as a function of inundation depth, wave height, and distance of the column from the shoreline. The scour process is characterized by several distinct phases of varying intensity and scour rate, the sequence of which varies depending on the location on the sides of the column. It is shown that the drawdown phase has a large influence on the overall scour development, adding up to 58% to the scour depth obtained during the wave runup phase. As a result of significant sediment infilling during the drawdown phase, the maximum scour depths achieved during the drawdown phase are up to twice the final scour depths at the end of a test. This discrepancy between final and maximum scour depths is greater than in previous studies using a flat sediment bed. The results of this study therefore help to interpret scour depths measured during field investigations after a tsunami event and provide a basis for extending design guidelines for coastal structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A series of laboratory experiments were undertaken to qualitatively investigate the evolution of wave nonlinearity over a movable bed of sediment with five different beach slopes under regular waves in a medium-scale wave flume. An innovative non-intrusive data collecting system, which mainly consists of three side-looking high-speed cameras, was developed to collect high-resolution and synchronous data on free-surface water elevation of waves and bed level changes without causing any disturbances to wave motions and the movable bed of sediment. On analyzing the collected experimental data, it is found that regular waves become nonlinear when they propagate to the shoaling zone and start breaking, and linear wave theory is quite accurate for calculating wave parameters such as orbital velocity with the correlation coefficient r 2 = 0.8–0.95 before the waves break, but becomes less accurate after the waves break or are in the breaking zone with the smaller correlation coefficient r 2 = 0.4–0.6. Four parameters, wave skewness S k η , asymmetry A y η , Ursell number U r , and Rocha number N P 0 , are introduced to describe the wave nonlinearity, of which S k η and A y η are found to be of largest amplitudes at the wave breaking point and then start to decrease in the breaking zone and are almost unchanged for different beach slopes, while U r further increases in the breaking zone and exceed the first larger value as waves approach to shoreline, but N P 0 is almost linearly proportional to wave orbital velocity amplitude and quite sensitive to beach slope. The location of sandbar is found close to the wave breaking point in the wave flume and may be also considered as the point where wave nonlinearity becomes important for sediment transport in the surf zone, and the linear wave theory becomes less accurate. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach evolution is one of the key issues in coastal engineering. High computational efficiency model of beach evolution is limited by strong wave nonlinearity, flow acceleration, and sediment phase lag. The XBeach model is improved to cover the three limitations in the study. First, the near-bed velocity of nonlinear wave is reconstructed by using nonlinear parameters. Second, flow acceleration and sediment phase lag are taken into account for the near-bed sediment conditions to calculate the equilibrium concentration of suspended sediment and the transport rate of bed load. The response of sediment is not necessarily instantaneous to near-bed velocity in practical problems, but separated into a phase (time) shift between sediment concentration and velocity and a phase residual denoting sediment amount in moving at flow reversal. The improved XBeach model performs better results than the original XBeach model. Numerical experiments are carried out using the improved XBeach model to investigate the effects of wave height and sediment size. The numerical experiments show that the volume and range of erosion/deposition increase with the increase of wave height and decrease of sediment size, and deposition center moves to offshore. The perspective of wave energy and phase lag can explain the erosion/deposition variation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Changes in the coastal zone under the influence of currents of different nature and wind waves are being investigated. A sandy beach located in the water area of the "Park of the 300th Anniversary of St. Petersburg", the Neva Bay of the Gulf of Finland of the Baltic Sea, is considered as an object. The beach is actively affected by wind waves and eventually washes away with the intensity of the retreat of the shore of about 4 m per year. For numerical modeling, a set of models is used: SWAN–wind-wave model and COASTOX-UN–a two-dimensional model of currents, sediment transport and bottom reformation. It was developed a model of the Neva Bay and the mouth of the Neva River from the Flood Prevention Facility Complex in the west to the river Neva near the Liteiny Bridge in the east. Based on the reanalysis of wind data, 36 strong storms were selected for a five-year period from 2014 to 2018, for the sequence of which numerical modeling of waves, currents and lithodynamic processes was carried out. It was obtained balances of alluvial and washouts after a ten-years simulated period for beach sectors. To verify the results, satellite images of the modeling area are used, it was found that the model adequately describes the main observed trends in the development of the beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shoreline position is a key parameter of a beach state, often used as a descriptor of the response of the system to changes in external forcing, such as sea-level rise. Changes in shoreline position are the result of coupled hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes happening in the nearshore and acting at different temporal scales. Due to this complexity, methodologies aimed at reproducing shoreline evolution at decadal time scale require many simplifications. Simpler methods usually consider an equilibrium beach profile whose shape depends only on beach morphology, and whose location varies depending on incoming forcing. Here, we derive a general equation for shoreline evolution using equilibrium beach profiles. We particularize it based on several common assumptions, and evaluate changes on shoreline position caused by sea-level rise, combined with simultaneous wave and high-frequency sea-level forcing. We compare our model against other analytical equilibrium beach profile-based models and with a dynamic model explicitly computing sediment transport. Results indicate that: (i) it is necessary to consider the area of the emerged beach subject to marine forcing rather than focusing only on the submerged part, (ii) the rates of shoreline recession may change for narrow beaches, defined as those for which marine forcings act onto all of their aerial surface, and (iii) Bruun's Rule can describe beach shoreline evolution, but the uncertainty in selecting the landward boundary of the active profile entails a huge uncertainty in the magnitude of shoreline evolution. This problematic uncertainty can be drastically reduced if instantaneous forcing conditions are used instead of the arbitrary emerged/submerged active profile boundaries typically defined by only one statistic parameter of extreme conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed level changes and sediment composition were collected at the man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering the Marsdiep basin that is part of the Dutch Wadden Sea. The data set consists of (1) current, wave and turbidity measurements from a dense cross-shore array and a 3 km alongshore array, (2) sediment composition data from beach surface samples, (3) high-temporal-resolution RTK-GNSS beach profile measurements, (4) a pre-campaign spatially covering bathy-topo map and (5) meteorological data. This manuscript outlines how these measurements were set up and how the data have been processed, stored and can be accessed. The novelty of this data set lies in the detailed approach to resolve forcing conditions on a sheltered beach, where sediment transport is governed by a strong interplay between tidal currents, waves and bed composition, primarily due to the low-energy (near-threshold) forcing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To interpret microbially influenced paleoenvironments in the sedimentary record, it is crucial to understand what processes control the development of microbial mats in modern environments. This article reports results from a multiyear study of Little Ambergris Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands, an uninhabited island floored by broad tracts of well‐developed microbial mats on the wind‐dominated and wave‐dominated Caicos Platform. Uncrewed aerial vehicle‐based imaging, differential global positioning system topographic surveys, radiocarbon data, and in situ sedimentological and microbial ecological observations were integrated to identify and quantify the environmental factors that influence the distribution and morphologies of Little Ambergris Cay microbial mats, including their response to large storm events. Based on these data, this study proposes that Little Ambergris Cay initially developed from the accretion and rapid lithification of carbonate sediment delivered by converging wave fronts in the lee of adjacent Big Ambergris Cay. Broad tracts of microbial mats developed during late Holocene time as the interior became restricted due to beach ridge development. Minor elevation differences regulate subaerial exposure time and lead to three categories of microbial mats, differentiated by surface texture and morphology: smooth mats, polygonal mats and blister mats. The surface texture and morphology of the mats is controlled by subaerial exposure time. In addition to elevation, the spatial distribution of mats is largely controlled by hydrodynamics and sediment transport during large storm events. This detailed assessment of the controls on mat formation and preservation at Little Ambergris Cay provides a framework within which to identify and understand the interactions between microbial communities and sediment transport processes in ancient high‐energy carbonate depositional systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shoreline position is a key parameter of a beach state, often used as a descriptor of the response of the system to changes in external forcing, such as sea-level rise. Changes in shoreline position are the result of coupled hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes happening in the nearshore and acting at different temporal scales. Due to this complexity, methodologies aimed at reproducing shoreline evolution at decadal time scale require many simplifications. Simpler methods usually consider an equilibrium beach profile whose shape depends only on beach morphology, and whose location varies depending on incoming forcing. Here, we derive a general equation for shoreline evolution using equilibrium beach profiles. We particularize it based on several common assumptions, and evaluate changes on shoreline position caused by sea-level rise, combined with simultaneous wave and high-frequency sea-level forcing. We compare our model against other analytical equilibrium beach profile-based models and with a dynamic model explicitly computing sediment transport. Results indicate that: (i) it is necessary to consider the area of the emerged beach subject to marine forcing rather than focusing only on the submerged part, (ii) the rates of shoreline recession may change for narrow beaches, defined as those for which marine forcings act onto all of their aerial surface, and (iii) Bruun's Rule can describe beach shoreline evolution, but the uncertainty in selecting the landward boundary of the active profile entails a huge uncertainty in the magnitude of shoreline evolution. This problematic uncertainty can be drastically reduced if instantaneous forcing conditions are used instead of the arbitrary emerged/submerged active profile boundaries typically defined by only one statistic parameter of extreme conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Liang, Z.; Ji, D.; Zhang, X.; Lingyun, W.; Zhang, T.; Li, S.; Yong, J.; Luo, J.; Liu, Y., and Zeng, J., 2023. Carboniferous oceanic basin sediment-gravity flows in the margin of the Junggar Basin, NW China: Characterisation and implications for hydrocarbon potential and evolution pacing. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(5), 890–906. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. Several Carboniferous deep-marine-sandstone reservoirs have recently been discovered in the Junggar Basin, NW China. These reservoir sandstones were deposited by sediment-gravity flows that occurred on the continental slope of the Junggar Basin, and they have high hydrocarbon exploration potential. In this study, careful observations and petrological and geochemical analyses of samples from outcrop sections of Carboniferous rocks from the Junggar Basin were conducted to establish the deep-marine sedimentary characteristics, depositional environments, and mechanism of these gravity-flow deposits, as well as a sedimentary model for their occurrence. The deep-marine, gravity-flow deposit types include those of turbidity currents, debris flows, and slumps. The debris-flow deposits can be divided into pebbly debris-flow deposits and sandy debris-flow deposits. Results allow the relationship between the type and nature of gravity flows and ocean basin evolution to be established. During the early Carboniferous, the ocean basin had sufficient space to accommodate incoming sediment, and the sediment transport distance was long. The gravity-flow sediments of this period are dominated by sandy debris-flow deposits and turbidity-flow deposits characterised by thin individual layers but thick accumulations of multiple deposits. With continuous narrowing of the oceanic basin during the late Carboniferous, the basin had a smaller accommodation space. The main types of gravity-flow deposition during this period were pebbly and sandy debris flows, with rare thin turbidity-flow deposits. These deposits were coarser grained than their early Carboniferous equivalents, and their cumulative thicknesses were smaller. The results of the study provide insights into the prediction of deep-marine reservoir sandstones and the distribution of hydrocarbons in the Junggar Basin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Due to the active sediment movement in sandy coasts, great changes may develop in the shoreline near the building after it is built into the sea. The downstream erosion problems and protective measures of buildings in sandy coast are reviewed and summarized based on the results of previous studies to facilitate further studies. On the basis of several typical cases such as that in the Friendship Harbor in Mauritania, the law of coastal changes in the downstream of sandy coastal buildings is analyzed from the aspects of coastline variation and sectional variation. The mechanism of water and sediment movement near protective measures such as groins, offshore breakwaters and offshore submerged breakwaters, is discussed, and soft protective measures such as artificial beach cultivation and by-pass sediment transport are summarized. Finally, the prospects for future research on coastal erosion of downstream sandy coastal structures and corresponding protective measures are given. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Episodic extreme waves caused by cyclones can have catastrophic consequences for coastal zones, including drastic beach morphology changes. The present study analyzed the beach morphological changes from Kakinada to Konapapapeta on the southeast coast of India before, during, and after the tropical cyclone Phethai using field survey and numerical modeling. Beach profiles were collected using Trimble RTK GPS and shoreline tracking was performed with handheld GPS. Numerical modeling was carried out using MIKE software to estimate the sediment transport rate before, during, and after the cyclone. Although the intensity of the cyclone reduced to a deep depression before landfall, several morphological changes were observed. Erosion was higher in the northern sector, where the beach width was less, and prominent scarps were seen throughout this region after the cyclone. The inundation varied from 40 to 120 m during the cyclone due to a storm surge of 0.5 to 1 m. During the cyclone, significant wave heights reached up to 4 m. The gross sediment transport rate is 3 to 13 times greater during the cyclone period than during the non-cyclone period. The maximum gross sediment transport rate during the Phethai cyclone was 1040 m3/day. Sediment transport was estimated for the same site for the non-cyclone year 2019, and the gross transport rate was 26,174 m3. As it is projected that extreme events are likely to increase due to climate change, output from this type of study is vital to environmental managers to assess erosion and develop long-term mitigation plans. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Flow velocities within coral reefs are greatly reduced relative to those at the water surface. The in-reef flow controls key processes that flush heat, cycle nutrients and transport sediment from the reef to adjacent beaches, all key considerations in assessments of reef resilience and restoration interventions. An analytical framework is proposed and tested with a suite of high-resolution numerical experiments. We demonstrate a single parameter that describes the total coral frontal area explains variation of horizontally averaged velocity within a reef canopy across morphologies, densities, and flow depths. With the integration of existing data of coral cover and geometry, this framework is a practical step towards the prediction of near-bed flows in diverse reef environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent developments in process-based coastal area models such as XBeach provide new opportunities to predict coastal responses to primary forcing mechanisms such as storm hydrodynamic by using 2DH grids. However, due to the lack of measured data, there are few application scenarios of the models. Therefore, more measurement and research are needed. In this paper, the Typhoon Lekima that hitting Zhejiang Province during neap tide period was selected to simulate morphodynamic responses of the Huangcheng Beach by assuming encountering with different tide types. Cross shore measurements with eight cross-shore profiles (named S1 ~ S8 from north to south) of the Huangcheng Beach pre- and post- the Typhoon Lekima respectively were presented. Then a 2DH storm surge and wave coupled model was established with Delft3D Flow/Wave. The model was well calibrated with measured water levels and wave data and provided hydrodynamic boundary conditions of different typhoon and tide types coupling situations for a refined model. The refined model was built using XBeach and simulated the morphological responses of the Huangcheng beach with well verifications. On basis of the numerical results, bed level changes at the eight profiles were analyzed, and the character of erosion and deposition under different tide conditions were illustrated. The net sand volume changes were got smaller under the spring tide condition rather than middle tide and neap tide conditions. Further study of the distribution of wave induced current at different stages of collision, inundation and ebb shown that the stronger current under spring tide condition would increase the sediment transport rate and reduce the deposition volume at profiles S3 and S6 ~ S8, and the total amount of sediment involved in transportation had increased for the whole beach, leading to the reduction of net erosion volume at profiles S1, S2, S4 and S5. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Coastal Dune Model, used to examine controls on dune development and evolution, includes negative feedback between the wind and the evolving topography that results in a scale‐invariant beach‐dune profile. While a limited number of reference profiles appear to support the Coastal Dune Model assumption of scale‐invariance, previously published studies and conceptual models suggest that the beach‐dune profile is not scale‐invariant. Using a combination of journal articles, textbooks, and remotely sensed data from Prince Edward Island, Washington state, and Texas, this short communication finds that there is no evidence for a scale‐invariant beach‐dune profile within and between field sites. Variability in the beach‐dune profile is due to site‐specific and scale‐dependent controls on the beach and the dune that are often highlighted in the conceptual models that authors use to depict the controls on sediment supply and transport from the beach to the dune. Results highlight a need to critically evaluate the assumptions and applications of models such as the Coastal Dune Model, and to explore how and when sites can be considered representative and in support of model results. Key Messages: There is no scale‐invariant beach‐dune profile as assumed in recent models.Beach‐dune profiles vary in response to site‐specific and scale‐dependent controls on sediment supply and transport.Further study is required to determine how and when sites can be considered representative. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Overwash is the cross‐shore transport of water and sediment from a waterbody over the crest of a sand or gravel barrier beach, and washover is the resulting sedimentary deposit. Washover volume, and alongshore patterns of washover distribution, are fundamental components of sediment budgets for low‐lying coastal barrier systems. Accurate sediment budgets are essential to forecasting barrier system sustainability under future climate‐driven forcing. However, comprehensive surveys of three‐dimensional washover morphology are challenging to deliver. Here, we use the results of a physical experiment, analysis of lidar data, and examples of washover characteristics reported in the literature to develop scaling relationships for washover morphometry that demonstrate volume can be reasonably inferred from planform measurements, for washover in natural (non‐built) and built barrier settings. Gaining three‐dimensional insight into washover deposits from two‐dimensional information unlocks the ability to analyze past aerial imagery and estimate contributions from washover flux to sediment budgets for past storms. Plain Language Summary: When a coastal storm drives water up and over the crest of a beach, sediment gets picked up by the flow and deposited behind the beach. That deposit, which might settle among dunes, on a marsh, or on the streets of a neighborhood, is called washover. Knowing the total volume of washover delivered by a storm event helps coastal managers account for the amount of sediment that moves through a beach system over time, known as a sediment budget. An accurate sediment budget provides an indication of environmental functioning and sustainability. However, washover volume is expensive to measure over large spatial scales—so despite its importance to sediment budgets, washover volume often goes unquantified. What if three‐dimensional washover volume could be estimated from the two‐dimensional shape and size of washover deposits visible in aerial photos? Here, we created washover deposits in a laboratory and compared them to washover in field settings to show that the area of a washover deposit is a good predictor of its volume. This relationship between area and volume unlocks information about past storm deposition captured in aerial photo archives, and enables estimation of washover volume where direct measurement of volume is unavailable or impossible. Key Points: Washover volume can be estimated from washover areaScaling relationships for washover size and shape link measurements from a physical experiment and field examplesEstimation of washover volume from aerial imagery is a step toward quantifying storm‐driven contributions to sediment budgets [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mercaldi, B.; Brideau, L.E.; Tait, J.F., and Griggs, G., 2022. Seasonal morphological variability on estuarine beaches and implications for low-energy beach management. Journal of Coastal Research, 38(6), 1135–1147. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines are critical for habitats and coastal infrastructure protection. Many different species inhabit estuaries because of the water bodies' unique characteristics, such as their mixed seawater and freshwater and variable tidal ranges. Estuarine beaches also have the important role of buffering storm wave energy. Yet, their natural physical processes are understudied. This research focuses on seasonal morphological variability of estuarine, low-energy beaches and evaluates the implications for beach management practices. Five sandy beaches were studied along the northern shoreline of Long Island Sound in the northeastern region of the United States. The studied beaches vary in location, width, length, and orientation within Long Island Sound to represent different exposures to wave energy. Three seasonal profiles were measured at each beach approximately every four months from late 2015 to early 2019 to document topographic changes. The results revealed minimal sediment movement throughout the study period and there was no evidence of significant cyclic cross-shore sediment transport to indicate patterns of seasonal profile changes. These findings reveal important implications for beach management practices on low-energy shorelines. Specifically, estuarine and other low-energy beaches should be studied on decadal time scales to document any long-term variability and post-storm recovery rather than the monthly or yearly time scales on which open-ocean beaches are typically evaluated. Additionally, estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines require specialized management practices that cater to their stagnancy to ensure adequate protection of coastal structures and infrastructure in the face of intensifying hurricanes and sea level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Process-based models are suitable tools for reproducing storm-driven erosion. However, their performance has been mainly examined on mild-slope sandy beaches and their use on steep beaches still represents a challenge. Here, open-source process-based model XBeach experiments were combined with topographical measurements collected for two storms (16- and 5-year return period) to obtain a reliable model. The model parameters "facua" (parameterized wave asymmetry and skewness sediment transport component), "bermslope" (upslope transport term for semireflective beaches), and "wetslope" (critical avalanching submerged slope) were utilized for calibration and validation. The 16-year storm simulations on an exposed beach revealed that whether bermslope increased and "facua" must be reduced, and vice versa, to properly simulate erosion. Adding bermslope provided excellent results for these storms when using facua and wetslope values close to the recommended values. In a groin-protected site, XBeach was successfully calibrated and validated for the tested storms using these parameters, although with different values. These experiments demonstrated that the appropriate use of these parameters can satisfactorily simulate morphological changes on steep beaches for different hydrodynamic conditions and coastal settings (exposed and groin protected). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Small uncrewed aerial systems (sUASs) provide an efficient way to reveal processes controlling the morphology of sandy shorelines so that they can be more effectively managed. One of Hawaiʻi's most popular tourist destinations, Waikīkī's Royal Hawaiian Beach, features patterns of sediment transport driven by trade-wind activity, seasonal wave conditions, tropical storm activity, and other phenomena that make it an effective laboratory for the study of beach morphology. To evaluate the efficacy of using consumer-grade sUASs to monitor subaerial sand volume and processes that drive beach morphodynamics, we conducted weekly aerial and ground surveys from which high-resolution point clouds, digital elevation models, and orthomosaics were generated through structure from motion (SfM) photogrammetry. Our period of observation (April to November 2018) bracketed the Central Pacific hurricane season and the season of elevated southerly swell. Both phenomena are known to significantly influence sediment transport in the study area. Using empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis, we described combinations of single and dual littoral cell behavior generated by both longshore sediment transport and abrupt episodic fluctuations in cross-shore transport. While past studies have investigated morphological change at this location, this unique single and dual cell behavior within the greater littoral system had not been previously revealed. This study demonstrates that sUASs are capable of capturing high-resolution spatial and temporal topographic data that allow for detailed evaluation of both seasonal processes and abrupt perturbations of beach systems. These processes drive significant changes in beach area, volume, and overall beach morphology and their understanding critical to effective management in an era of sea level rise-driven change. The employed methodology was designed to be highly efficient and universally applicable to sandy shorelines whilst also being relatively inexpensive and instrumentation readily available, allowing for a more comprehensive understanding of these unique coastal environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d'Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θ p : (1) under deflection configuration ( θ p > 0 ° ), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration ( θ p < 0 ° ), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration ( θ p = 0 ° ), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Flume experiments were conducted to assess the impact of submerged flexible vegetation on regular wave attenuation and beach morphology. • The presence of vegetation prevented further erosion of the beach, resulting in a reduction of 7% to 63% in experiments. • The attenuation caused by vegetation results in the wave breaking point being closer to the shoreline on vegetated sand, leading to shoreline retreat. • A dimensionless equation was developed to characterize the behaviour of the cross-shore beach profile under the protection of flexible vegetation. Coastal protection methods are evolving from hard engineering techniques to natural enhancement approaches. Aquatic vegetation provides an environmentally friendly solution by effectively dissipating waves and resisting erosion. Laboratory flume experiments were conducted to investigate the effect of submerged flexible vegetation on the regular wave attenuation and cross-shore profiles on the artificial plane beach under varying hydraulic conditions. Variations in the waveform, wave spectrum, and wave height were analysed in the vegetation zone. Results show vegetation distorts the waveform and accelerates the attenuation process of the wave energy, and wave height evolution behaves differently from the theoretically obtained attenuation by Mendez and Losada (2004) due to the underestimating vegetation-induced attenuation and neglecting sediment-induced attenuation. Additionally, the formation process of the winter and summer profiles of the vegetated beach was analysed by the screenshots. Regenerated wave breaking becomes more apparent with increasing wave periods. The critical surf similarity parameter of the vegetated beaches was found to be lower than that of a smooth, impermeable slope because of the energy dissipation. Vegetation did not alter the type of the beach profiles, as compared to the final profiles and their characteristic parameters of the unvegetated beaches. Instead, it reduced the erosion depth and brought the eroded area closer to the shoreline. Dimensionless parameters were formulated to characterize the response of the cross-shore beach profile under the shelter of flexible vegetation, and an empirical equation about maximum erosion depth was developed within the scope of the experiment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Some of the most disruptive effects of climate change are projected to be felt along the coastlines. The combined effects of future changes in water levels and wave climate along coastal areas constitute one of the most serious threats to their sustainable evolution, compromising critical infrastructures, resources, ecosystems, and communities. Understanding long-term changes in coastal areas remains challenging, however, due to their multivariate and multi-time-and-space-scale nature. In this study, we propose an innovative methodology for a complete vulnerability assessment of sandy low-lying coastal areas, based on dynamic, ensemble-based projections from the Coupled Model Intercomparison Project phase 5 (CMIP5). In the current Part I study, the effects of sea level rise (SLR) and nearshore wave climate changes on future shoreline evolution are assessed at five key-locations along the Portuguese coastline. Longshore sediment transport (LST) projections are computed, and sedimentary imbalances are quantified. Overall, robust shoreline retreat of up to 300 m is projected, especially along the Portuguese northern and central coastal areas, with continued erosion driven mainly by sediment imbalance and SLR. The projected decrease in future nearshore wave energy is responsible for a slight alleviation in erosion trends, up to 6.33%, whereas the increase of northerly incoming waves is expected to lead to northward beach rotations along western Mainland Portugal. The resulting shoreline evolution, responsible for the loss of up to 0.786 km2 of dry land by 2100 along the 14 km of analysed coastline, is projected to threaten several Portuguese urban areas, calling for the implementation of adequate coastal management and adaptation plans, to reduce the impacts of climate change on population, infrastructures, livelihood, and ecosystems. • An innovative methodology for a coastal vulnerability assessment is proposed. • Impact of SLR and wave climate changes on future shoreline evolution are assessed. • Robust shoreline retreat up to 300 m is projected along the Portuguese coastlines. • Shoreline evolution is responsible for loss of up to 0.786 km2 of dry land by 2100. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The beach slope β is a key component characterizing the coastal response to wave forcing. Here we investigate the rapid adaptation of the upper beach slope to a given wave forcing, for the case of a lower flat platform. Such types of morphology are found on coral and rocky reef beaches and low tide terrace environments. The influence of the lower platform on this rapid equilibrium beach state is shown to be significant depending on the breaking wave regime. In particular, the width of the platform and its water level can affect the wave dissipation along the inner surf and thus the wave structure entering the swash. This paper provides a classification of the beach slope equilibrium values as a function of the Dean number on a short time scale (individual wave action), based on both offshore and swash wave conditions. A decreasing trend of the beach slope with increasing offshore Dean number (Ω 0) is found for Ω 0 ≲ 2. 7. For Ω 0 ≳ 2. 7 it is observed that the beach slope gradient is strongly controlled by the surf zone dissipation and it becomes necessary to define the swash Dean number (Ω s w) to classify the slope. Finally, a semi-empirical formula for the beach slope evolution in the case of a low tide platform is introduced and tested on two natural low-tide terrace beaches. • Definition of rapid equilibrium beach face slope associated to individual wave action. • Distinction between swash and surf dominated beaches on LTT beaches using Dean number based on offshore or local swash flow characteristics (Ω 0 or Ω s w). • Swash-dominated beaches respond directly to offshore wave forcing. • In surf-dominated beaches the inner-surf zone cannot be disregarded. • A simplified model is proposed to predict the rapid evolution of the beach slope as a function of the swash Dean number Ω s w. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

While the impact of the spatio/temporal variability of grain size on morphological beach state is reasonably well understood, relatively little is known on its impact at a scale of days/months on aeolian sediment transport. This study focuses on five short intensive wind events during which aeolian sediment transport measurements, beach surface sampling and elevation change surveys were carried out for 1 to 3 days, over a 16-month period on a microtidal beach dominated by offshore winds. Monthly observations show a high temporal variability in beach grain size in relation to the decoupling between hydrodynamic and aeolian processes, from medium sand after a marine storm and inundation of the beach, to very coarse sand after several weeks of storm-force winds. During each wind event, topographic change on the beach ranged from zero, to 0.55 m. The time scale of coarsening depended on the initial beach grain size and could be very fast when the beach was composed of medium sand (e.g. 388 μm sand changed to coarse sand of 547 μm in 40 h). In contrast, it took one month to transition from a coarse median beach grain size of 883 μm to a very coarse one of 1323 μm. This variability in grain size results in dramatically different rates of sediment flux. For example, during average wind speeds of 10 to 14 m/s the sediment flux when the beach was composed of medium sized sand ranged between 21 and 154 kg/m/h compared to 0.4 to 50 kg/m/h when the beach was composed of coarse and very coarse sized grains. Overall, this study highlights the importance of beach grain size variability on aeolian sediment transport and shows that for similar incident wind and climatic conditions aeolian sediment transport rates vary dramatically. The study demonstrates the importance of taking care when using a constant median grain size in the calculation of long-term aeolian sand transport on beaches with heterogeneous spatial and temporal beach grain size variability. • Transport rates can be ten times greater on medium-sized beach than coarse one. • Offshore wind generate a grain size sorting, the finest sands are exported seaward. • Topographic variations of the beach depends on its grain size and sand supply. • The return of fine sediments depends on marine storms occurrence and intensities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach erosion at the unprotected downdrift end of a groin is common with waves approaching the structure obliquely. This phenomenon has often occurred on the downdrift side of natural groins on the east coast of South Korea during high waves in winter months. The resulting planform assumes a distinctive crenulate shape with a maximum indentation point landward of the erosion. An analytical model is employed to study the beach erosion at the downdrift end of a natural rock groin at Jeongdongjin Beach in Korea, using mathematical equations derived from the parabolic model for headland-bay beaches in static equilibrium, to predict the downdrift control point and maximum indentation of the eroded shoreline. These equations are solved using the prevailing wave height, wave angle at breaking and wave direction derived from analyzing NOAA's wave data over 40 years and the longshore sediment transport rate calculated from the wave data. The location of the calculated maximum indentation is also verified using shoreline video monitoring data and compared with the result of a one-line numerical model for shoreline change. The limitation of the proposed analytical model is discussed as is the effect of sediment bypassing the groin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Advances in image-based remote sensing using unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV) and structure-from-motion (SfM) photogrammetry continue to improve our ability to monitor complex landforms over representative spatial and temporal scales. As with other water-worked environments, coastal sediments respond to shaping processes through the formation of multi-scale topographic roughness. Although this topographic complexity can be an important marker of hydrodynamic forces and sediment transport, it is seldom characterized in typical beach surveys due to environmental and technical constraints. In this study, we explore the feasibility of using SfM photogrammetry augmented with an RTK quadcopter for monitoring the coastal topographic complexity at the beach-scale in a macrotidal environment. The method had to respond to resolution and time constraints for a realistic representation of the topo-morphological features from submeter dimensions and survey completion in two hours around low tide to fully cover the intertidal zone. Different tests were performed at two coastal field sites with varied dimensions and morphologies to assess the photogrammetric performance and eventual means for optimization. Our results show that, with precise image positioning, the addition of a single ground control point (GCP) enabled a global precision (RMSE) equivalent to that of traditional GCP-based photogrammetry using numerous and well-distributed GCPs. The optimal model quality that minimized vertical bias and random errors was achieved from 5 GCPs, with a two-fold reduction in RMSE. The image resolution for tie point detection was found to be an important control on the measurement quality, with the best results obtained using images at their original scale. Using these findings enabled designing an efficient and effective workflow for monitoring coastal topographic complexity at a large scale. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To evaluate the annual sediment dispersal pattern, a year-long beach profile monitoring and granulometric analysis were adopted along the Kundapura estuarine beaches of coastal Karnataka. The river mouth is bounded by breakwaters and the coast is armoured by seawalls and groins. Beaches adjacent to the breakwater showed progradation as a result of the shadow zone created due to the sheltering effect from incident waves. Evidence also comes from the replacement of coarser mode sediments by finer. Those away from the shadow zone, however, experienced extensive erosion. They are subjected to along-shore drift and minimal replacement from the same. It was also observed that despite being tropical estuarine beaches, sediments did not show any affinity towards a fluvial-derived character. These points towards transport of fine sediments further offshore and retention of coarser fraction in the surf zone that is to be carried shoreward. Breakwaters in turn facilitate this by channelising the river discharge farther in the sea. Evidence towards the same is also provided by the well-sorted to moderately well-sorted nature of the sediments. Breakwaters were thus observed to highly influence the sediment dispersion and distribution along an estuarine coast. This study will provide knowledge on the role of coastal structures in sediment dispersion while framing future coastal protection strategies for the conservation of the coast. Research highlights: Progradation of beaches adjacent to the breakwaters due to sheltering from direct waves whereas erosion of beaches away from the influence of these structures is observed. Extensive engineered coast has resulted in the narrowing of the natural beach width making it reflective with a high-energy environment thus accelerating further erosion. Due to this, the beach has lost its recreational value. The along-shore drift directions derived considering beach morphology, beach volume change and beach sedimentology, along with the mode of transport and environmental affinity of sediments provide a comprehensive understanding of sediment dispersal pattern along the coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding sediment transport processes on natural sandy beaches is essential for gaining insights into beach recovery and making effective coastal management decisions. This study examines surfzone sediment transport rates related to beachface morphological variations on an embayed mesotidal sandy beach located on the northwestern coast of the Baja California Peninsula in Mexico. Data were collected during a week-long field experiment conducted in June 2016 under low-to-moderate wave energy conditions (H s = 0.4 − 1.3 m). Daily topographical surveys and continuous measurements of near-bottom suspended sediment fluxes were conducted alongside the application of an extended energetics-based model that accounted for velocity and acceleration skewness. Results reveal contrasting accretionary and erosive patterns in the inner surfzone, along with consistent sediment deposition in the swash zone throughout the study period. Onshore sediment transport is found to be related to short-period calm wave conditions (H s < 0.7 m; T p < 10 s) and a weak undertow (<0.2 ms−1). Alongshore nonuniform wave breaking, influenced by irregular bathymetry and moderate-energetic oblique waves from the northwest, contributes to an alongshore gradient in sediment transport rate, leading to erosion in the northern part of the intertidal beach and accretion in the southern part. Suspended sediment flux measurements at 0.2 m above the bed suggest offshore mean transport predominates over oscillatory transport throughout the field experiment. Nevertheless, this observation should be interpreted with caution, as the flux is not vertically integrated across the water column and does not consider fluid acceleration. The model predictions effectively replicate sediment transport rates and consequent volumetric changes (Accuracy = 55– 63 % ; RMSE = 44–69 m3; Bias = − 2 to −61 m3), although they underestimate observed accretion by a factor of three and overestimate erosion by a factor of two. Overall, this research highlights the complexities of natural sandy beach recovery processes in mesotidal environments and emphasizes the importance of considering both cross-shore and longshore components in sediment transport assessments. [Display omitted] • Beachface accretion remains consistent under low-to-moderate wave conditions. • Combined velocity- and acceleration-skewness model reproduces onshore sediment transport, but underestimates beachface accretion. • Erosive and accretive surfzone patterns are linked to nonuniform wave breaking influenced by bathymetry. • Undertow significantly governs offshore sediment flux near the seabed within the surfzone. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Effective coastal management requires an understanding of sediment dynamics. This study examines the distribution of heavy minerals (HMs) in two distinct coastal regions: the mainland and spit, each with unique sediment deposition patterns. The spit accumulates sediment through alongshore sediment transport (AST), while the mainland experiences erosive processes and significant human impacts. The hydrodynamic behaviour and weathering resistance of HMs enables source identification. This has helped to reveal differences between the two regions, with apatite being characteristic of spit sediments and garnet of mainland beaches. Coastal processes, such as erosion, sediment transport, and accumulation, significantly shape the distribution of the HMs, with garnets dominating erosive shores and amphiboles dominating accumulative shores. Furthermore, the study found that human-made coastal infrastructure also affects the composition of HMs and the sediment distribution through AST. This research has implications beyond the local level, providing global insights into the complexities of coastal dynamics. The study emphasises the importance of using HM analysis in conjunction with grain size analysis to understand the distribution of beach sediment composition. It also highlights the significant role of coastal processes, including anthropogenic impacts such as jetty construction or deepening port entrance canals on AST. • Heavy mineral analysis complements grain size analysis to study coastal sediment dynamics. • Heavy mineral composition in beach sediments aided in excluding three coastal areas along the studied sea coast. • Heavy mineral distribution patterns revealed disruptions in alongshore sediment transport due to coastal infrastructure. • Heavy mineral composition depends on coastal processes: garnets dominate on eroding, and amphiboles on accumulative shores. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sandspits at river mouths are important socio-ecological but fragile coastal ecosystems. Due to their significant role, particularly in shielding areas behind them from wave impact, sandspits are crucial, albeit they also pose challenges such as increased fluvial flooding, which often necessitates substantial engineering interventions such as artificial breaching. Here, four wave-dominated sandspits are compared to determine their common behavior. The study sites at river mouths have in common a high control of waves on longshore sediment transport leading to sandspit development; the Langue de Barbarie at the Senegal River delta, the Bouche du Roi at the mouth of the Mono River in Benin, the Mataquito River mouth in Chile, and the Pomene River mouth in Mozambique, each characterized by unique hydrodynamic conditions and geomorphologic features that influence their evolution and susceptibility to natural and anthropogenic impacts. Their cycles of opening and development, typically spanning decades, are studied by collecting 37 years of shoreline and wave reanalysis data from the Landsat and Sentinel-2 missions. It is shown that part of the morphodynamics is truly intrinsic and that climatic wave evolution drives only a small part of their evolution. A simplified model is introduced to predict the cyclic behavior of spits. The proposed model for sandspit development is based on a cyclic behavior, where newly formed spits mature and eventually break, resetting the cycle. This cyclic perception is represented as a function of time, where the elongation of the spit relative to its maximum length is modeled as a function of time and a constant wave-driven longshore sediment transport component. The model is tested at several sites with similar environmental conditions and blindly at one site with reasonable results. The present work also highlights the importance of spit evolution and the associated variability they impose on coastal downdrift and updrift, especially when considering anticipating the implementation of engineering solutions. • Cyclic behavior of sand spit lengthening. • Predicting sand spit length with a conceptual model. • Updrift and downdrift coastal impact of a sand spit lengthening. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Laboratory investigations of beach morphology change under wave action are undertaken to gain insight into coastal processes, design coastal structures and validate the predictions of numerical models. For the results of such experiments to be reliable, it is necessary that they are repeatable. The equilibrium beach concept, that beach morphology will evolve to a quasi-static equilibrium shape for a given forcing suggests that experiments should be repeatable to some degree. However, sediment transport in turbulent breaking and broken waves is complex and highly variable and the level of repeatability at different temporal and spatial scales is challenging to measure, as such, previous work has restricted comparisons to small numbers of waves. Here we use the results of two identical, 20-h large-scale wave flume experiments to investigate the repeatability of sediment transport and beach morphology change under waves at timescales down to individual swash events. It is shown that while flow characteristics from identical swash events are very repeatable, the sediment transported can be very different in both magnitude and direction due to differences in turbulence, sediment advection and morphological feedback. Over longer periods containing multiple matching swash events however, the beach responds in a very similar manner, with the level of morphological repeatability increasing with time. The results also demonstrate that gross swash zone sediment transport remains high even as a beach profile approaches quasi-equilibrium, but the proportion of individual swash events that cause large sediment fluxes (>±7.5 kg/event/m) reduces with time. The results of this laboratory study indicate that beach morphology change has a level of determinism over timescales of several minutes and longer, giving confidence in the results from physical modelling studies. However, the large differences in sediment transport from apparently identical swash events questions the value in pursuing numerical predictions of sediment transport at the wave-by-wave timescale unless the reversals in sediment transport between apparently near identical swash events can also be predicted. • Large-scale flume experiments are used to assess morphological repeatability. • The results of laboratory investigations of morphology change are repeatable. • Sediment fluxes from almost identical waves vary in magnitude and direction. • Over longer timescales, sediment fluxes from identical wave groups converge. • Gross sediment transport remains high even as beaches approach quasi-equilibrium. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach loss is a growing global challenge that threatens the safety of coastal communities, the health of coastal ecosystems, recreational amenities, and regional economies dependent on tourism. Spatial gradients in longshore sediment transport, or divergence of drift (DoD), is a primary driver of beach width change over multi-annual time scales, but the response of any particular beach can be challenging to characterize and predict. Here we present a new method to characterize DoD using a non-uniform segmentation of the coastline informed by the spatial distribution of longshore transport potential, including the location of physical barriers identified using satellite imagery, and both maxima and reversals in longshore transport potential derived from nearshore wave data. The method demonstrates improved capacity to predict beach width trends at sandy beaches compared to methods that rely on a uniform segmentation of the coastline. In an application to southern California where satellite data documents two decades of beach width change, the non-uniform segmentation method correctly predicts the sign of beach trends at 93% of transects within a littoral cell and achieves a linear correlation between DoD and beach width trends exceeding 0.8. Moreover, we find that a minimum of five years of data are required to establish consistently strong correlations between DoD and beach width changes. Conversely, use of a uniform segmentation is shown to be unreliable for estimating beach width trends due to strong sensitivities to shoreline segment size. This work shows the potential to leverage nearshore wave data and satellite-based beach width data for improved characterization of shoreline dynamics relevant to beach erosion management. • A new shoreline modeling method is presented for estimating divergence of drift. • Segment boundaries are identified using longshore transport characteristics. • Strong correlations were shown between divergence of drift and beach width trends. • A littoral Peclet number characterizes the dominant longshore transport mechanism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Microtextures of quartz grains in the Bay of Bengal shoreline sediments in Bangladesh are investigated. • Microtextures are grouped as mechanical, chemical, and both mechanical/chemical origin. • V-shaped marks are abundant, indicating a high-energy storm event. • The solution and precipitation features suggested a silica-saturated subaqueous marine environment. • Well-rounded grains suggested aeolian origin, and angular to sub-angular grains support a local source. SEM and SEM-EDS studies of quartz grains in the shoreline sediments of the Bay of Bengal, Bangladesh were carried out to evaluate the mode of origin, paleoclimate, and depositional environment. A total of 38 microtexture types were identified, which were grouped into mechanical (23 features), mechanical/chemical (6 features), and chemical (9 features) origins. The morphology of quartz grains in the shorelines was dominantly sub-angular to sub-rounded in shape, which represents robust energy conditions, short residence time, low weathering, and nearby sediment provenance. The microtextures of mechanical origin such as straight and curved scratches, pits, broken edges, and crescent-shaped features were relatively abundant in the eastern site samples (Section-I) indicating high-energy, fluvial, and beach environments. The abundance of V-shaped marks and smooth surfaces of quartz grains indicate high-velocity storm conditions and/or high-energy impact events. The well-rounded outline, low relief with dish-shaped depressions, mechanically upturned plates, and arcuate steps were also observed on quartz grain surfaces. These features suggest that they were developed during an aeolian process in the beach berm environment. Etching, solution/irregular pits, and differential relief on quartz grains were somewhat elevated in the western site samples (Section-III), reflecting that these microtextures were associated with a subaqueous collision and humid climates in the fluvial and nearshore environments. Quartz grains in all sections represented microtextures of high energetic subaqueous environment as well as wind events. However, the absence of corrosion channels and high density of voids in the quartz grains revealed low degree of weathering. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storms and extremely energetic events may significantly impact the form and structure of beaches, and so cause erosive processes and coastal damages. Efficient management actions require an up-to-date and accurate knowledge of beach morphological changes, with the shoreline position being a good indicator of such changes. This work proposes the use of the open-source Shoreline Analysis and Extraction Tool (SAET) software for the definition of satellite-derived shorelines (SDSs) from L8 and Sentinel-2 imagery to reveal the shoreline position changes at the beaches of the Ebro Delta, NE Spain. Spatial-temporal models (STMs) of shoreline changes enable a characterisation of how the beaches responded to the storms of 2020. In conjunction with wave data, STMs enable an analysis of the erosive response to storm events, as well as a monitoring of subsequent beach recovery in the short and medium term (<1 year). Results show how Storm Gloria (January 2020, Hs max = 7.62 m) acted as a disruptive event and shifting point in the shoreline trend. As a response to that storm, major erosive processes occurred along the delta that caused an average shoreline retreat of 47 m. A progressive recovery during the spring and summer was mainly associated with periods of low wave energy. Nevertheless, by the end of the year a complete recovery had been achieved for about half of the coast, while the other half showed an average erosion of more than 10 m when compared to the pre-storm situation. Both the erosive and the recovery processes took place unevenly on different sections of the coast, probably dependent on factors such as the orientation of the beach and the pattern of longitudinal sediment transport along the coast. • Automatic shoreline extraction from Sentinel 2 and Landsat 8 imagery using SAET. • Pre and post-storm characterisation of SDS position in time and space using STMs. • Storm Gloria (January 2020) caused an unprecedented and heterogeneous impact on the Ebro Delta. • Slow recovery occurred in the months following the event conditioned by orientation and wave patterns. • About half of the delta showed a significant shoreline retreat by the end of 2020. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Along sandy coastlines, submerged, shore-parallel sandbars play an essential role in shoreline morphology by dissipating wave energy through depth-induced wave breaking. While wave breaking and sediment transport around sandbars are complex three-dimensional (3D) processes, shoreline morphology is typically simulated with depth-averaged models that feature lower computational demand than do 3D models. In this context, this study examines the implications of depth-averaging the flow field and approximating the breaking process in nonhydrostatic models (e.g., XBeach nonhydrostatic) for the hydro- and morphodynamic processes around sandbars. The implications are drawn based on reproducing large-scale experiments of a barred beach profile using the single-layer (XBNH) and the reduced two-layer (XBNH+) modes of XBeach. While hydrodynamic processes were predicted with high accuracy on the sandbar's seaward side, wave heights were overpredicted on the bar's landward side. The overestimation was due to the simplified reproduction of the complex breaking process near the sandbar's peak, particularly in terms of the generated turbulence in the water column. Moreover, the velocity profile with a strong undertow could only be represented in a simplified way even using the two-layer mode XBNH+, thus resulting in inaccurate predictions of sediment loads around the sandbar. A parametric study is performed, and it revealed which model parameters control the simulation of the wave-breaking process. Thus, wave height predictions could be improved by tuning the energy-dissipation parameters. However, flow velocities and morphodynamic predictions could not be improved accordingly. Thus, this study identifies possible hydrodynamic model improvements, such as incorporating a roller dissipation model. Moreover, it improves understanding of key drivers and processes that should be included in nonhydrostatic depth-averaged models to simulate morphological changes around sandbars more efficiently. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The performance of the process-based nearshore model XBeach for predicting extreme offshore-directed sediment transport was investigated using field observations at a dissipative beach in Japan. Three extreme erosion events were identified from a record of 6,209 observations of the cross-shore profile change at Hasaki, Japan, from 1987 to 2003. The analysis considered the sensitivity of the wave nonlinearity of short waves that could be tuned using the parameter, fua, to the observed bed profile change. The comparisons revealed that for extreme offshore-directed sediment transport events, fua = 0.0 is the best fit for predicting these extreme beach profile changes. In the nearshore zone, erosion was underestimated, and the BSS exhibited low values. Peak sediment deposition occurred in the bar-offshore zone with sediments transported from the nearshore zone and was estimated by the model reasonably well. In addition to the three extreme events, 14 other large events were identified, and the trends of beach profile change could be estimated with sufficient tuning of the fua parameter. After analyzing the correlation between fua and wave and morphology-related parameters, the fua value could be correlated to the observed volume change. This suggested that if there were a rough estimate of the expected total volume change, this may help in setting fua value. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dune height is an important predictor of impact during a storm event given that taller dunes have a lower likelihood of being overtopped than shorter dunes. However, the temporal dominance of the wave collision regime, wherein volume loss (erosion) from the dune occurs through dune retreat without overtopping, suggests that dune width must also be considered when evaluating the vulnerability of dunes to erosion. We use XBeach, a numerical model that simulates hydrodynamic processes, sediment transport, and morphologic change, to analyze storm-induced dune erosion as a function of dune aspect ratio (i.e., dune height versus dune width) for storms of varying intensity and duration. We find that low aspect ratio (low and wide) dunes lose less volume than high aspect ratio (tall and narrow) dunes during longer and more intense storms when the beach width is controlled for. In managed dune scenarios, where sand fences are used to construct a "fenced" dune seaward of the existing "natural" dune, we find that fenced dunes effectively prevent the natural dune behind them from experiencing any volume loss until the fenced dune is sufficiently eroded, reducing the magnitude of erosion of the natural dune by up to 50 %. We then control for dune morphology to assess volume loss as a function of beach width and confirm that beach width exerts a significant influence on dune erosion; a wide beach offers the greatest protection from erosion in all circumstances while the width of the dune determines how long the dune will last under persistent scarping. These findings suggest that efforts to maintain a wide beach may be effective at protecting coastal communities from dune loss. However, a trade-off may exist in maintaining wide beaches and dunes in that the protection offered in the short-term must be considered in concert with potentially long-term detrimental effects of limiting overwash, a process which is critical to maintaining island elevation as sea level rises. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Whitley, A.E.; Figlus, J.; Valsamidis, A., and Reeve, D.E., 2021. One-line modeling of mega-nourishment evolution. Journal of Coastal Research, 37(6), 1224–1234. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. As many coastal areas of the world suffer from chronic erosion, innovative solutions beyond traditional local nourishment must be explored. One such solution is the implementation of mega-nourishments (MNs), where a large sediment volume is deposited in a single location and redistributed via natural processes, thereby feeding adjacent beaches. Robust numerical modeling methods are needed to evaluate potential MN sites at coastal locations around the world. Two one-line numerical modeling approaches of MN evolution are presented using the Coastline Evolution Model (CEM) and GENESIS + Cascade (GenCade). Both models are parameterized for the Sand Motor (SM) that has been constructed on the Dutch coast to explore the feasibility of the MN approach. Here, a variety of K coefficients in the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) sediment transport equation are tested since traditionally calibrated and used values may not apply for MN features. Both models are found capable of reproducing the shoreline morphological patterns observed at the SM over the first 3.5 years. GenCade shows a low difference between measured and modeled coastline position overall, showing accurate predictions of absolute shoreline position. CEM is able to capture feature tip migration due to its wave shadowing algorithm. The best results from both models can be obtained for higher K values than those commonly suggested in the literature. Given the size of a mega-nourishment relative to traditional nourishments, it is likely that a higher-than-usual K value may be a better fit when simulating mega-nourishments in a one-line model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sandy beaches generally are influenced by various coastal dynamic processes and undergo constant changes. The present study is an attempt to understand the hydromorphodynamic characteristics of a sandy pocket beach situated along the central west coast of India through field observation and numerical modeling. Multiple oceanographic instruments are deployed to capture the actual nearshore hydrodynamics, and sediment transport is measured using the streamer trap method suggested earlier during the premonsoon season. The observed vertical distribution of sediment fluxes showed a typical upward decrease from the seabed to the water surface. It is also noted that nearly 75% of the trap measurements showed that near-bed transport is higher than the depth-integrated values, confirming that the maximum sand remobilization is in the vicinity of the seabed rather than in suspension. The beach profiles of selected transects were measured during the pre- and postmonsoon seasons to understand the bed evolution. A one-dimensional numerical model, developed using XBeach and validated with field-observed values, demonstratively captured the effect of monsoon hydrodynamics on the beach profiles with fair accuracy. The various significant numerical parameters that govern the morphodynamics in the sandy beach are evaluated through a comprehensive analysis. In the end, the simulated beach profile that captures the effect of monsoon and storm are in good agreement with that obtained from field observations, with Brier Skill Scores (BSSs) of 0.69, 0.76, and 0.74 for Profiles 1, 2, and 3, respectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Spyrou, D. and Karambas, T., 2021. Experimental and numerical simulation of cross-shore morphological processes in a nourished beach. Journal of Coastal Research, 37(5), 1012–1024. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. This paper presents the results of an experimental and numerical research carried out to reproduce the cross-shore evolution of nourished sandy beaches. An extensive two-dimensional laboratory investigation was performed to study the cross-shore profile evolution after the application of a beach nourishment method. A 1:20 scale physical model was carried out in the Laboratory of the Department of Hydraulics and Environmental Engineering, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. The analysis considered only cross-shore sediment transport. Long-shore sediment transport is considered negligible. Consequently, the obtained results are related to the short-term response of the cross-shore profile. Ten different wave combinations were generated in an attempt to reproduce erosive conditions. Experimental results are given in terms of wave parameters, bed slope, and berm height of the nourished beach. An advanced nonlinear wave model was developed to simulate cross-shore morphodynamical processes. The comparison between the experimental and numerical beach profile indicated good agreement. Also, comparisons between Dean's analytical method and the experimental results were made. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Rodil, I.F.; Long, Z.T.; Fegley, S.R.; Rodriguez, A.B., and Peterson, C.H., 2021. Benthic community responses to the filling of a hurricane-induced barrier island inlet. Journal of Coastal Research, 37(3), 601–610. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. In September 2003, Hurricane Isabel created a new tidal inlet through Hatteras Island, a barrier island of North Carolina (U.S.A.). Within two months, the breach was filled with sand dredged from nearby areas. Subsequent ecological response of the benthic macroinvertebrate communities to the filling differed on shores on opposite sides of the island. Thus, the filled area on the high-energy sandy beach exhibited convergence in community composition and abundance with a nearby reference area within 30 months, whereas the filled area on the lower-energy sound shoreline still possessed a depauperate benthos. The high volume of long-shore sediment transport documented along the ocean beaches of Hatteras Island probably acted quickly to transport benthic macrofauna to the fill along with natural beach sediments, and thereby activating a rapid ecological response of the beach community. The beach community was dominated by annual macroinvertebrate species, which could account for mixing from nearby areas in the rapid macrofauna community response. In contrast, the Pamlico Sound shoreline experiences only local wind-driven waves and modest long-shore currents likely insufficient to import macrobenthos readily. Infrequent passive transport of macrobenthos and persistence of defaunated sediment habitats nearby probably slowed the macrofauna community response on the sound-shore side. Management intervention through habitat restoration would be recommended in the less dynamic sound shore environment compared to the high-energy ocean beach where ecological responses of the invertebrate community occurred rapidly. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents the use of an Eulerian–Eulerian multi-phase model to examine sediment transport over a gravel beach under regular waves. A previously published full-scale experiment is reproduced numerically; the simulated wave deformation, flow velocity, pore pressure, and morphological evolution are consistent with measurements. The multi-phase model can produce berm formation for smaller waves and beach erosion for larger waves as observation in previous field studies. The sensitivity analysis suggests that the nonlinear component of drag has significant effect on the berm formation through infiltration and exfiltration. The two simulated forces applied on the sediment (drag and buoyancy) are examined. The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport; therefore the sediment transport rate has high correlation with depth-averaged flow velocity. The buoyancy that is caused by plunging flow impacting beach face can push the sediment landward in the bore front, where the flow acceleration has its peak. The flow acceleration is considered in some previous sediment transport models empirically for simulating morphological evolution of gravel beach under waves. The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • Sediment transport in a gravel beach is simulated using a multiphase model. • The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport. • The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • The nonlinear drag has the effect on berm formation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sediment exchange between the shoreface and the foreshore is investigated through the analysis of sandbar and berm migration cycles at La Misión beach in Baja California, Mexico. In general, nearshore sandbars migrate onshore during low-energy wave conditions merging with the shoreline to become intertidal sandbars that later contribute to berm rebuilding. However, significant alongshore differences were observed in the sandbar welding and berm rebuilding process, which can be attributed to alongshore wave skewness and near-surfzone flow variations. The analysis of topographic and bathymetric surveys collected monthly over a 5-year period revealed larger shoreline retreat and longer recovery times in the southern beach compared to the north. This was related to the inability of sandbars to weld to the intertidal beach during spring and summer, occurring only during extended periods of low-energy waves. In the southern beach, the berm formation process exhibited less dependence on incoming wave energy, persisting during mild-energy winters, and reforming in the presence of sandbars. Hydrodynamic measurements indicated that the southern part of the beach experienced relatively more intense net offshore flows (up to −0.2 ms−1) due to undertow, and possibly related to the presence of persistent rip currents. In contrast, the berm in the northern beach followed a seasonal erosion and rebuilding process associated with sandbar migrations driven by variations in incoming wave energy and cross-shore sediment transport. This was characterized by larger near-bed wave velocity skewness compared to the south. Net flows in the north were predominantly onshore, reaching up to 0.1 ms−1 during lower-energy periods with oblique wave incidence. This study reveals the presence of considerably distinct sandbar and berm migration cycles along a relatively short beach of 2.2 km long. It also highlights how such variability can be related to the morphodynamic feedback with sandbars affecting hydrodynamics, particularly near-bed wave skewness and near-surfzone flow variations, which in turn influence sediment transport and morphological evolution. • Bar merging affects berm rebuilding, influenced by wave skewness and flow variations. • Net onshore flows and higher skewness allow seasonal berm rebuilding. • Net offshore flows and lower skewness kept the bar offshore but the berm recovered. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The potential for shoreline formation surrounding ancient Martian lake basins is evaluated by reviewing the fundamental processes of how waves form, propagate, break, and run up a beach, while assessing their potential to initiate sediment transport upon reaching a shore, first on Earth and then on Mars. The modeling approach uses a series of well-established semi-empirical equations to simulate the transfer of wind energy to a water surface, grow and propagate wind waves across that surface according to fetch length, and upon reaching the shore, convert the velocity of the breaking waves to the shear stress required to move particles of different sizes on beaches with a range of slopes. This approach is tested by using instrumental wind records to generate wave fields on the Great Salt Lake, Utah and compare the shear stress generated upon wave breaking to the particle size distributions of nine different beaches that were formed during 1986–1987. The critical threshold shear stress required to move the coarse particles (7–28 cm) of these beaches matches reasonably well to the estimated shear stresses derived from the modeled wave climate. This procedure is then applied to ancient Martian beaches, after adjusting for the lower strength of gravity, to estimate the probable size of waves and their ability to transport coarse mixtures of sediment and form shorelines. The results indicate that, given reasonable fetch lengths (25–200 km) and wind velocities (5–25 m/s) during ice-free conditions, large waves (1–10 m) would have likely traversed ancient Martian lakes. Upon reaching a shore these waves would have generated breaking wave velocities of about 1–2 m/s, and been capable of transporting cobbles and small boulders (5–50 cm). The results further imply that shorelines would likely have formed in Martian lake basins. • Determined the sediment transport capability of waves formed on fetch-restricted water bodies. • Verified approach by comparing beach composition to wave climate on Great Salt Lake, Utah. • Adapted approach to Mars to determine if waves there would have created shorelines. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fitria, J.; Gemilang, R.I.A.; Purnama, B., and Prasetyo, A., 2023. Rapid changes in the coastal morphology of Amurang, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. In: Lee, J.L.; Lee, H.; Min, B.I.; Chang, J.-I.; Cho, G.T.; Yoon, J.-S., and Lee, J. (eds.), Multidisciplinary Approaches to Coastal and Marine Management. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 116, pp. 289-293. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. Changes in coastal morphology can occur through long-term processes, such as sediment transport, and through short-term processes, such as those caused by earthquakes, storms, or tsunamis. On June 15th, 2022, a rapid change in coastal morphology due to a landslide happened in the coastal area of Amurang, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. Morphological changes and their triggers were analyzed through a comparison of post-slide and preslide bathymetry data, satellite imagery, and analysis of the soil layers. Based on the comparison of bathymetry data, the maximum change in seabed depth in the landslide area was 51 meters with a curvature shape on the rupture surface. The coastline has retreated about 150 meters inland with around 2.34 million m3 of material displaced. The results show that the landslides on the Amurang Coast that caused the rapid morphological change in the area were not triggered by hydro-oceanographical conditions, tectonic events, or volcanic events. They were triggered principally by the over-steepened slope and the ground soil's ability to support the additional weight of building embankments over a thick sediment layer. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hwang, B.-H.; Do, K.-D., and Chang, S.-Y., 2023. Morphological response of Storm Hinnamnor at Songjeong Beach using UAV-derived data. In: Lee, J.L.; Lee, H.; Min, B.I.; Chang, J.-I.; Cho, G.T.; Yoon, J.-S., and Lee, J. (eds.), Multidisciplinary Approaches to Coastal and Marine Management. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 116, pp. 126-130. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. This study investigated the morphological response of a wave-dominated beach to large storms via field data collection. The field data were collected on Songjeong beach facing SE in the south-eastern corner of Korea. This study measured pre- and post-storm beach volumes by Storm Hinnamnor using Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV). In this storm event, the peak of the significant wave was 10 m, and the wave period mainly varied between 10.9s under stormy conditions. The incident waves were mostly easterly at 90-115.5°. During this event, due to the strong storm intensity, the upper part of the sediment showed significant erosion along the entire beach, and net accumulation took place in the revetment area by overwash. The highest substantial loss occurred in the SW section of the study area, associated with the wave direction. Compared to the SW section, the mid and NE section of the study area eroded sediment. It was transported to the upper beach near the revetment area, suggesting that the onshore sediment transported was dominated in this area. After the storm, the local government undertook beach nourishment to restore the deposition sand on the revetment to the beach. This study carried out the UAV survey after beach nourishment and estimated the sediment volume by overwash. As a result, it was estimated that the amount of sand transported to the offshore area was 9533 m3, and the overwash deposition volume was 1441.3 m3. This study shows that UAV surveys can effectively estimate the morphological response of storm on the beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The arid coasts of North Africa, extending over 4633 km from the Gulf of Tunis to the Nile Delta, are undergoing pronounced shoreline retreats and coastal floodings that are reported as a consequence of the ongoing sea level rise resulting from global warming. Of particular interest are the abnormal shoreline dynamics for deltaic and sandy beaches, which are severely impacted by abrupt decadal variabilities in both climatic and anthropogenic drivers resulting in their increased vulnerability to disturbances from coastal hazards. Unfortunately, the evolution, distribution and impacts of these drivers remain largely unquantified, let alone understood, for these extensive arid coasts that harbor the major portion of North Africa's population as well as unique and fragile marine ecosystems. To address this deficiency, we use GIS-based multi-criteria approaches combined with analytic hierarchy process to map the Coastal Vulnerability Index and the Socioeconomic Vulnerability Index along these coasts to investigate the amplitude and extent of shoreline deterioration resulting from sudden fluctuations in sediment transport to the coastline. We use the western bay of the Gulf of Tunis, the coasts of Tripoli and the Nile Delta as three validation sites for our vulnerability assessment. The statistical Integrated Coastal Vulnerability Index map reveals that 47% of arid North African coasts are characterized by high to very high vulnerability. In particular, we observe that the densely populated deltaic coasts in both Tunisia and Egypt are 70% more vulnerable than any others coast in the eastern Mediterranean Basin. These abnormally high-vulnerability extensive areas are also correlated with significant deterioration of coastal aquifers and hence in crop production, compromising local food security and resulting in increasing outflow migration trends. Both Tunisia and Egypt observed dramatic increases in the net population outflow migration by respectively 62% and 248% between 2000 and 2016, mostly from coastal areas. Our source analysis of the amplitude and extent of these high coastal vulnerabilities suggests that they result from the anthropogenic drivers of damming and rapid urban growth over the last few decades rather than the effects of global warming. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The mutual feedback between the swash zone and the surf zone is known to affect large-scale morphodynamic processes such as breaker bar migration on sandy beaches. To fully resolve this feedback in a process-based manner, the morphodynamics in the swash zone and due to swash-swash interactions must be explicitly solved, e.g., by means of a wave-resolving numerical model. Currently, few existing models are able to fully resolve the complex morphodynamics in the swash zone, and none is practically applicable for engineering purposes. This work aims at improving the numerical modelling of the intra-wave sediment transport on sandy beaches in an open-source wave-resolving hydro-morphodynamic framework (e.g., non-hydrostatic XBeach). A transport equation for the intra-wave suspended sediment concentration, including an erosion and a deposition rate, is newly implemented in the model. Two laboratory experiments involving isolated waves and wave trains are simulated to analyse the performance of the model. Numerical results show overall better performance in simulating single waves rather than wave trains. For the latter, the modelling of the morphodynamic response improves in the swash zone compared with the existing sediment transport modelling approach within non-hydrostatic XBeach, while the need of including additional physical processes to better capture sediment transport and bed evolution in the surf zone is highlighted in the paper. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beck, T.M.; Wang, P.; Li, H., and Wu, W., 2020. Sediment bypassing pathways between tidal inlets and adjacent beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, 36(5), 897–914. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. This study investigated the sediment transport pathways in three sandy barrier, tidal inlet systems through sediment tracking within a numerical model that simulates hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. The three tidal inlet systems, Coos Bay, Oregon, Shark River Inlet, New Jersey, and John's Pass, Florida, represented high-, medium-, and low-wave energy regimes for U.S. inlets (Pacific, Atlantic, and Gulf of Mexico Coasts, respectively). Three methods employed to define sediment pathways from the results of a numerical morphology model were evaluated: (1) morphodynamic interpretation, (2) mean transport vectors across the modeled inlet, and (3) sediment tracer migration. The sediment tracing methodology employed in this study allowed for an evaluation of the sediment transport pathways between the various morphologic features of a tidal inlet, as well as their respective processes that drive the exchange of sediments. Characterizing and correlating the dominant and subdominant, or seasonal, sediment pathways between tidal inlet morphologic features (sediment reservoirs) can improve long-term models of an inlet sediment system. Divergences in pathways to subfeature shoals of a complex tidal inlet shoal, such as the updrift and downdrift shoals of an ebb-tidal delta, can be resolved through tracking sediment migration. The results of this study illustrate the value of including sediment-tracking techniques in simulating sediment bypassing and the potential of this application to inform coastal engineering and design modifications to the sediment reservoirs of tidal inlet systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]