Determination of Nearshore Wave Conditions and Bathymetry from X-Band Radar Systems

The long-term goal of this research project is to improve our capability to use X-band marine radars to routinely measure waves, currents and bathymetry in coastal regions. The scientific objectives of this study are: 1. investigate the imaging mechanisms of X-band radar systems in shallow coastal waters where nonlinear wave steepening, infragravity waves, wave breaking and breaking-induced currents can affect the radar backscatter signal 2. apply high-resolution spectral analysis techniques to the estimation of directional wave spectra from X-band radar images. 3. develop improved techniques for estimating the bottom topography from X-band radar images of the sea surface in shallow water regions with highly nonlinear waves and/or strong currents.
Prepared in collaboration with the Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory, Birkenhead, UK.