Happy trails: Rancho del Cielo was the Reagans' shining place in the hills--a private domain of horses, dogs, and family that was also the West Coast White House. Now, after 15 years away, a first daughter returns to look, like so many Americans, for traces of her late father and his legacy

WHEN MY PARENTS FIRST SAW the 688-acre ranch that sits between the Santa Ynez Valley and the Pacific Ocean, with sweeping views of both, they fell in love with it. [...]