Comparing the moisturizing effects of ascorbic acid and calcium ascorbate against that of tocopherol in emulsions

Calcium ascorbate (CAAS), which is a hydrophilic and stable derivative of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) (AA), is commonly used in foods as an antioxidative agent. There are very limited reports on its dermatological use in the literature. In this paper, it is reported that CAAS could be used in place of ascorbic acid, which has chemical stability problems in topicals due to degradation by oxidation. The aim of this study was to investigate the skin-hydrating effect of CAAS compared to those of ascorbic acid and tocopherol (vitamin E) (T), which is a potential skin moisturizer and commonly used in dermocosmetics. Vitamins are incorporated into two kinds of base creams (o/w and w/o emulsion creams), alone and in combinations. Formulations were applied to the inner forearms of volunteers, and skin conductance was measured by using a corneometer. Data obtained were statistically evaluated. It was found that the skin-hydrating effect of CAAS was higher than that of AA and lower than that of T. However, its effect was very close to that of T.