Sociologijski pristup modi: modernistički i postmodernistički pristup

Rad se bavi modernističkim, postmodernističkim i feminističkim pristupom modi kao i utjecajem supkultura na formiranje mode. Naglasak je stavljen na sociološke teorije koje ističu važnost klasne diferencijacije u stvaranju mode, poput teorija T. Veblena, G. Simmela i P. Bourdieua. Modernistički teoretičari T. Veblen i G. Simmel ističu da moda nastaje u višoj klasi, pritom Veblen odjeću vidi kao odraz bogatstva i pokazatelja zanimanja osobe, tako da odjeća članova više klase mora biti skupa, moderna i neprikladna za obavljanje proizvodnih poslova. S druge strane Simmel navodi dvije funkcije mode, povezivanje ljudi istog položaja i razlikovanje nižih od viših slojeva. Viša klasa uvodi stalne promijene u modu kako bi zadržala privilegirani status i distancirala se od nižih klasa. P. Bourdie također naglašava klasni karakter mode, to jest ukusa koji se u višim klasama nasljeđuje po naraštajima. U sociološkom proučavanju mode također su bitne spolne razlike koje se očituju kroz odijevanje što je tema kojom se bavi feministički pristup. Postmoderni pristup zanemaruje klasnu diferencijaciju već pažnju pridaje stvaranju individualnog identiteta u čemu pojedincu pomaže moda, koja je u razdoblju proizvodnje usmjerene na potražnju, usmjerena na zadovoljavanje individualne potrebe i želje. The paper deals with modern, postmodern and feminist approach to fashion as well as the influence of subculutures on the formation of fashion. Emphasis has been put on the sociological theories that emphasize the importance of class differentation in the creation of fashion, such as the theories of T. Veblen, G. Simmel and P. Bourdieu. Modern theorists T. Veblen and G. Simmel point out that fashion originates in the upper class, while Veblen sees clothes as a reflection of person's wealth and profession, so that upper class clothing must be expensive, modern and unfit to perform production work. Simmel on the other hand, lists two functions of fashion, connecting people of the same position and differentiating between lower and upper classes. The upper class introduces constant changes in order to maintain its privileged status and to distance itself from the lower classes. P. Bourdieu also emphasizes the class character of fashion, that is the taste which is inherited in the upper classes in generations. In the sociological study of fashion, gender differences that manifest through fashion are also important, which is the topic addressed by the feminist approach. The postmodern approach neglects class differentiation but pays attention to the creation of the individual identity, in which the individual is assisted by fashion, which in the period of demand-driven production, is focused on satisying individual need and desire.