Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305–315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm−2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.
Highlights • UV light increases stress and reduces cohesion of stratum corneum (SC) to impair barrier function. • The sunscreen carrier (glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate) has marked effects on SC stress and cohesiveness regardless of UV. • Accelerated UV damage tests on treated SC shows octyl methoxycinnamate sunscreen loses photoprotection with large exposure. (Fourth bullet): The same tests show dioctyl 4-methoxybenzylidenemalonate sunscreen protects SC mechanical properties with large exposure.