Mannosylerythritol lipids inhibit melanogenesis via suppressing ERK‐CREB‐MiTF‐tyrosinase signalling in normal human melanocytes and a three‐dimensional human skin equivalent

Hyperpigmentation is caused by excessive production of melanin in melanocytes. Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are glycolipid biosurfactants that are abundantly produced by yeasts and used commercially in cosmetics. However, the potential depigmenting efficacy of MELs has not been evaluated. In this study, the depigmentary effect of MELs was tested in primary normal human melanocytes (NHMs), α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16 cells (murine melanoma cells) and a human skin equivalent (MelanoDerm) using photography, Fontana-Masson (F&M) staining and two-photon microscopy. Mannosylerythritol lipids significantly decreased the melanin contents in NHMs and α-MSH-stimulated B16 cells. Consistent with these findings, MELs treatment had a clear whitening effect in a human skin equivalent, brightening the tissue colour and reducing the melanin content. The molecular mechanism underlying the anti-melanogenic effect of MELs treatment was examined by real-time PCR and Western blotting. Mechanistically, MELs clearly suppressed the gene expression levels of representative melanogenic enzymes, including tyrosinase, Tyrp-1 and Tyrp-2, by inhibiting the ERK/CREB/MiTF signalling pathway in NHMs. This work demonstrates for the first time that MELs exert whitening effects on human melanocytes and skin equivalent. Thus, we suggest that MELs could be developed as a potent anti-melanogenic agent for effective whitening, beyond their use as a biosurfactant in cosmetics.