Estimation of stress and bed roughness during storms on the Northern California Shelf

Turbulent boundary shear stress depends on a roughness length scale which characterizes momentum transfer to the seabed. The effective roughness length is due to physical roughness geometry such as sediment ripples, grain size and processes affecting momentum transfer, such as bedload transport and wave motions. During storms on the California shelf, wave motions dominate the turbulent boundary layer, although feedback through wave-induced bed forms and sediment transport are important. Several intense storms on the Northern California Shelf were monitored with pressure sensors, acoustic current meters and an optical backscatter sensor within 5 m of the bed at 90 m depth. Wave spectra, velocity profiles, turbulent kinetic energy and suspended sediment concentrations were obtained. At 90 m depth, waves were measured in the band of 0.05-0.08 Hz, with nearbed wave velocities of 5–30 cm s −1 . In spite of wave-induced currents of up to three times the mean speed, 30 min average velocities yielded typical logarithmic profiles. Roughness, as indicated by the zero intercept of the logarithmic profiles, z 0 , varied by a factor of 25 throughout the storms, with a maximum of 18 cm, when mean currents were above 5 cm s −1 and the wave amplitude was maximal. Such large increases in z 0 are predicted by models of wave-current interaction. Effects of sediment transport and bed forms are not easily extracted from the data during storms. But, the fairly large non-storm values of ∼0.5cm indicate the effect of bed ripples.