The Relationship between Wave Incidence, Wind Direction and Beach Changes at Marsden Bay, County Durham

The observations on which this paper is based covered the period from January 1949 to December 1950. They included weekly measurements of the beach profile during part of the period at two selected points and were used to correlate beach changes with variations of wind force and direction, wave characteristics and other relevant data. The paper is presented in four parts: (i) Characteristics and location of the beach. (ii) Significant factors governing wave action in the locality and prevailing weather conditions. (iii) Analysis of the observations, with reference to relevant wave-tank experiments. (iii) Generally applicable results and conclusions.