Characterization of optical properties of traditional Japanese fabrics

Traditional Japanese fabrics (Nishijin weave, Kyoto) make a striking visual impression that can be dramatically affected by the reflection of light from the surface of the fabric. The characterization method was developed by using a goniospectrophotometric system while the fabrics were rotated. After comparing the contrast values calculated under the various combination of illumination (θ i) and viewing angles (θ v), the optimum value for θ i/θ v was found to be 45/–70. Using these values, unique patterns of the CIELAB L* component were observed as functions of the sample rotation angle (θω). The shape of L* with respect to θω was found to be affected by the differences in constituent yarn color and weave structure. θω was found to be the most accurate parameter for determining the change in lightness from shiny to dull in the visual assessment.