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Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing.

Authors :
Draper, Nick
Dickson, Tabitha
Blackwell, Gavin
Fryer, Simon
Priestley, Sefton
Winter, David
Ellis, Greg
Source :
Journal of Sports Sciences; May2011, Vol. 29 Issue 8, p851-858, 8p, 3 Charts, 2 Graphs
Publication Year :
2011

Abstract

Level of ability within rock climbing is generally expressed in terms of a 'best ascent', rated using various grading systems within the sport. The most common method of obtaining this information is via self-report. The aim of this study was to examine the validity of self-reported climbing grades. Twenty-nine competitive rock climbers (17 males, 12 females) were first asked to report their current (defined as within the last 12 months) best on-sight lead ascent grade (Aus/NZ). The participants then climbed a specifically designed indoor route, under on-sight conditions (one attempt, no route practice or preview), to obtain an assessed grade. The route increased in difficulty, and was such that the distance achieved by the climber corresponded to a particular grade. The mean (±standard deviation) self-reported and assessed grade was 22.6 ± 3.4 and 22.0 ± 3.0 (Aus/NZ) respectively. Despite slight over- and underestimations in males and females respectively, there was no statistically significant difference between self-reported and assessed on-sight climbing grades. The results of this study suggest that self-reported climbing grades provide a valid and accurate reflection of climbing ability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Details

Language :
English
ISSN :
02640414
Volume :
29
Issue :
8
Database :
Complementary Index
Journal :
Journal of Sports Sciences
Publication Type :
Academic Journal
Accession number :
60429992
Full Text :
https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2011.565362