Directional Wave Spectrum Analysis Using Images Data.

In this paper, image-processing techniques are used to observe changes in the direction of the wave spectrum in shallow waters, especially in the surf zone area. This method is based on a time series of pixel brightness in image data. Directional wave spectrum in the surf zone area is determined by using the Bayesian Directional Method. This research uses data from observations in the Hasaki region, Japan. The results of determining the wave direction spectrum in the surf zone using the Bayesian Directional method have showed that the principle direction at the peak frequency is not too influenced by the wave breaking process. Conversely, a broadening of the spreading direction occurs when the wave begins to break over the sandbar and head towards the beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]