Chinese Tofu in Cold War Taiwan: Gendered Cosmopolitanism and Contested Chineseness.

Chinese Tofu (1971), edited by the acclaimed female writer Lin Haiyin in Taiwan, came out in a rapidly changing Cold War order in East Asia. Focusing on this previously neglected work, this article offers a close reading of how a mundane foodstuff shed light on contested Chineseness, one informed by Lin's own gendered experience in the diaspora. Rather than reifying or essentializing "Chinese" foodways, tofu opened up the possibility of a more cosmopolitan geography. That geography pointed to former imperial frontiers, the Sinitic cultural sphere, and beyond. The book's afterlife in reform-era China underscores the ongoing debate over what it means to be Chinese. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]