How One Chef Became An Evangelist For India's Glorious Regional Food.

The article focuses on Chef Heena Patel's unique and autobiographical approach to Gujarati cuisine at Besharam restaurant in San Francisco. Topics include the chef's hyper-regional and California-influenced Gujarati menu, the challenges of representing diverse Indian cuisines in the U.S., and Patel's culinary journey from a pop-up in 2014 to the award-winning Besharam.