Modeling Impact of Intertidal Foreshore Evolution on Gravel Barrier Erosion and Wave Runup with XBeach-X.

This paper provides a sensitivity analysis around how characterizing sandy, intertidal foreshore evolution in XBeach-X impacts on wave runup and morphological change of a vulnerable, composite gravel beach. The study is motivated by a need for confidence in storm-impact modeling outputs to inform coastal management policy for composite beaches worldwide. First, the model is run with the sandy settings applied to capture changes in the intertidal foreshore, with the gravel barrier assigned as a non-erodible surface. Model runs were then repeated with the gravel settings applied to obtain wave runup and erosion of the barrier crest, updating the intertidal foreshore from the previous model outputs every 5, 10 and 15 min, and comparing this with a temporally static foreshore. Results show that the scenario with no foreshore evolution led to the highest wave runup and barrier erosion. The applied foreshore evolution setting update is shown to be a large control on the distribution of freeboard values indicative of overwash hazard and barrier erosion by causing an increase (with 5 min foreshore updates applied) or a decrease (with no applied foreshore updating) in the Iribarren number. Therefore, the sandy, intertidal component should not be neglected in gravel barrier modeling applications given the risk of over- or under-predicting the wave runup and barrier erosion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]