What defines dry skin? Correlating a range of skin hydration parameters with In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy.

Objective: While there are a wide range of approaches for the assessment of skin hydration, it is not always clear how data from them relate to one another or to the skin itself. With the development of in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (ICRS), it has become possible to measure water concentration as a function of protein/depth within the stratum corneum (SC). This article reports a comparison between electrical skin hydration measures/visual/optical grading and water concentration profiles measured using ICRS, to better understand the relationship between these approaches.
Methods: SC hydration of lower-leg skin with varying degrees of dryness was assessed using visual grading (live and from digital images), Corneometer®, Visioscan and ICRS. In addition, a custom fingerprint sensor was used to image surface capacitance (as a surrogate of SC hydration), and SC barrier function was assessed using evaporimetry (to measure trans-epidermal water loss; TEWL).
Results: Significant correlations were observed between a number of different skin grading/measurement approaches and ICRS data. ICRS hydration profiles also revealed a region near the SC surface with a relatively flat water profile in dry skin subjects.
Conclusions: The advent of quantitative in vivo analytical techniques such as ICRS, which can be used in a clinical setting, has enabled greater insight into more conventional approaches for assessing skin dryness. While traditional skin grading and biophysical methods for measuring skin hydration have varying degrees of correlation with one another, they also provide comparatively unique information about different regions within the SC. This should enable a more informed approach to product development in the future.
(© 2024 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)