Evaluation of the anti-aging potential of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline in cosmetics.

Acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline, a commercialized bio-active peptide, is widely used in anti-wrinkle formulations. Volunteer-based tests have demonstrated that topical application of products containing acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline significantly reduces the visibility of stretch marks. However, there is still a lack of research dedicated to systematically and holistically evaluating its cosmetic properties and elucidating its mechanisms of action. In this study, we assessed the cosmetic potential of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline using human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and mouse embryonic fibroblasts (3T3). Our findings reveal that acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline exhibits anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities in skin cells, particularly effective against the inflammatory markers cyclooxygenase-2 (COX2), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β) and interleukin-6 (IL-6), and the extent of inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production ranged from 95 % to 340 %. Moreover, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline specifically up-regulates Collagen IV and down-regulates matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP9), enhances the expression of skin barrier proteins transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) and filaggrin (FLG), thereby demonstrating its reparative capabilities. Additionally, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline increases the expression of the water channel protein aquaporin 3 (AQP3), thus improving skin hydration function. These results substantiate the previously proclaimed cosmetic attributes of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline and support its efficacy as an anti-aging agent in dermatological applications.
Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper.
(Copyright © 2024 The Author(s). Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)