A novel professional-use synergistic peel technology to reduce visible hyperpigmentation on face: Clinical evidence and mechanistic understanding by computational biology and optical biopsy.

Topicals and chemical peels are the standard of care for management of facial hyperpigmentation. However, traditional therapies have come under recent scrutiny, such as topical hydroquinone (HQ) has some regulatory restrictions, and high concentration trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel pose a risk in patients with skin of colour. The objective of our research was to identify, investigate and elucidate the mechanism of action of a novel TCA- and HQ-free professional-use chemical peel to manage common types of facial hyperpigmentation. Using computational modelling and in vitro assays on tyrosinase, we identified proprietary multi-acid synergistic technology (MAST). After a single application on human skin explants, MAST peel was found to be more effective than a commercial HQ peel in inhibiting melanin (histochemical imaging and gene expression). All participants completed the case study (N = 9) without any adverse events. After administration of the MAST peel by a dermatologist, the scoring and VISIA photography reported improvements in hyperpigmentation, texture and erythema, which could be linked to underlying pathophysiological changes in skin after peeling, visualized by non-invasive optical biopsy of face. Using reflectance confocal microscopy (VivaScope®) and multiphoton tomography (MPTflex™), we observed reduction in melanin, increase in metabolic activity of keratinocytes, and no signs of inflammatory cells after peeling. Subsequent swabbing of the cheek skin found no microbiota dysbiosis resulting from the chemical peel. The strong efficacy with minimum downtime and no adverse events could be linked to the synergistic action of the ingredients in the novel HQ- and TCA-free professional peel technology.
(© 2024 Colgate‐Palmolive Company. Experimental Dermatology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)