Prediction, screening and characterization of novel bioactive tetrapeptide matrikines for skin rejuvenation.

Background: Extracellular matrices play a critical role in tissue structure and function and aberrant remodelling of these matrices is a hallmark of many age-related diseases. In skin, loss of dermal collagens and disorganization of elastic fibre components are key features of photoageing. Although the application of some small matrix-derived peptides to aged skin has been shown to beneficially affect in vitro cell behaviour and, in vivo, molecular architecture and clinical appearance, the discovery of new peptides has lacked a guiding hypothesis.
Objectives: To identify, using protease cleavage site prediction, novel putative matrikines with beneficial activities for skin composition and structure.
Methods: Here, we present an in silico (peptide cleavage prediction) to in vitro (proteomic and transcriptomic activity testing in cultured human dermal fibroblasts) to in vivo (short-term patch test and longer-term split-face clinical study) discovery pipeline, which enables the identification and characterization of peptides with differential activities.
Results: Using this pipeline we showed that cultured fibroblasts were responsive to all applied peptides, but their associated bioactivity was sequence-dependent. Based on bioactivity, toxicity and protein source, we further characterized a combination of two novel peptides, GPKG (glycine-proline-lysine-glycine) and LSVD (leucine-serine-valine-aspartate), that acted in vitro to enhance the transcription of matrix -organization and cell proliferation genes and in vivo (in a short-term patch test) to promote processes associated with epithelial and dermal maintenance and remodelling. Prolonged use of a formulation containing these peptides in a split-face clinical study led to significantly improved measures of crow's feet and firmness in a mixed population.
Conclusions: This approach to peptide discovery and testing can identify new synthetic matrikines, providing insights into biological mechanisms of tissue homeostasis and repair and new pathways to clinical intervention.
Competing Interests: Conflicts of interest M.B., E.J.B., Y.D., C.C. and A.K. are employees of No7 Beauty Company, Walgreens Boots Alliance; O.P., P.M., C.R., L.B., R.L. and A.P. are employees of Sederma and are bound by confidentiality agreements that prevent them from disclosing their competing interests in this work. N.J., M.O., A.E. and B.M. were supported by a programme grant awarded by No7 Beauty Company, Walgreens Boots Alliance to M.J.S. and R.E.B.W. L.D., A.G. and L.Z. declare no conflicts of interest.
(© The Author(s) 2024. Published by Oxford University Press on behalf of British Association of Dermatologists.)