Cosmetic application of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K.

Objective: The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti-aging potential) of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K - (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium.
Methods: Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell-healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used.
Results: Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non-oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC-5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC-5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay.
Conclusions: SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti-ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product.
(© 2024 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)