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Promotion of glyoxylic acid penetration into human hair by glycolic acid.

Authors :: Uyama M
Okabe S
Kurashima T
Kurinobu R
Takechi M
Yoshiba R
Miyoshi R
Noda S
Kaneko M
Ikemoto Y
Takahara A
Higaki Y
Hama T
Source :: International journal of cosmetic science [Int J Cosmet Sci] 2023 Apr; Vol. 45 (2), pp. 246-254. Date of Electronic Publication: 2023 Mar 13.
Publication Year :: 2023
Abstract: Objective: Glyoxylic acid (GA) is widely used as a straight perming agent for hair care products, however, advanced GA penetration-enhancing agents are desired due to the peculiar odour and hair colour fading caused by the continuous use of GA products. Hence, it is important to develop a penetration-enhancing agent that helps minimize the GA concentration. We have found that the combined use of GA and glycolic acid (GCA) has a strong hair straightening effect.<br />Methods: Straightening hair test was carried out to the evaluation of the effect of additives. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC/MS) was performed to quantify the GA penetration amount into human hair. Attenuated total reflection (ATR) Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and FT-IR microscope were implemented to estimate the localization of GA in the hair.<br />Results: Straightening hair tests indicated that the hair straightening effect by GA was enhanced by the presence of GCA. LC/MS results showed that the addition of GCA enhanced the amount of GA that penetrated human hair by about four times. ATR FT-IR and FT-IR microscope measurements indicated that GA was localized more in the innermost region of hair (medulla) than the cortex and cuticle. The GA accumulated in the medulla disappeared after a hair straightener treatment at 180°C due to the chemical reaction.<br />Conclusions: The GA penetration-enhancing effect of GCA is worth investigating to reduce the GA concentration in products for more comfortable use.<br /> (© 2023 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)