Effect of emulsifiers on drying stress and intercellular cohesion in human stratum corneum.

Objectives: Emulsifier molecules, with their amphiphilic character, are ubiquitous in moisturizing creams and primarily serve to disperse the water-insoluble molecules such as emollients, oils, lipids and fats in water. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of emulsifier molecules on the barrier and biomechanical properties of human stratum corneum (SC) and to compare the efficacy of emulsifier molecules when used in a fully formulated moisturizing cream.
Methods: We employed methods based on thin-film mechanics to measure the drying stress and intercellular cohesion in the SC. The emulsifier molecules or moisturizing creams formulated with them were applied to a fully hydrated SC adhered to a glass substrate. In-plane stress developed in the SC during drying was then measured by tracking changes in the curvature of the glass substrate. The intercellular cohesion within the SC was measured by means of a double cantilever beam (DCB) set-up, where the treated or untreated SC was sandwiched between two substrates, and the delamination energy calculated by measuring the force required to drive a crack through the SC. Moisturizing cream diffusivity through the stratum corneum was measured by spectroscopic technique and related to internal SC stress and fracture energy.
Results: We observe significant differences in the biomechanical behaviour of SC when moisturizing creams with different emulsifier molecules are applied on isolated stratum corneum ex vivo. The reduction in maximum stress varied between 12% and 26% depending on the emulsifier molecules used in the formulation. The intercellular cohesion and the diffusion of molecules in the formulated moisturizing creams through the SC were also found to be strongly dependent on the type of emulsifier molecule used in the formulation.
Conclusions: The biomechanical and barrier properties of the human stratum corneum show strong dependence on the emulsifier molecule used in the moisturizing creams, even when the creams included only ~3 weight% emulsifier molecules. Moreover, we found that the reduction in SC peak stress was strongly correlated with the formulation diffusivity into the SC. The moisturizing creams diffusing fastest into the SC had the largest reduction in peak stress and vice versa.
(© 2020 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)